Original subtitles

Hi I'm Laura Alexandra and welcome to Serbia.

I'm exploring this beautiful European country and discovering its rich history,

unique culture and of course its modern-day offerings.

Last time I left the capital Belgrade and began a journey following an ancient Roman cultural trail.

By river or by land I've certainly discovered that Serbia has an incredible history,

and I know I have much more ahead.

The trail has taken me to the city of Niš where my adventure continues.

Niš is the third largest city in southern Serbia. It's a lively university city with cafes, bars, restaurants,

galleries and even a park here as well.

It dates back to the Neolithic period and it's the birthplace of the Roman Emperor Constantine.

But not only is it steeped in history and culture, it's also the adventure capital of Serbia.

There’s loads to find out about this place, so let's delve into its dramatic past.

As dramatic past go it's tough to beat the remnants of Nazi occupied Serbia,

and a concentration camp in the city is certainly a harrowing sight

I've brought you here to a Niš concentration camp because

it represents the most important part of our history during the Second World War.

Many people suffered and died here, more than 12,000 were killed in the nearby Bubanj Hill,

and the rest were sent to Auschwitz, Mauthausen Dachau and north of Norway.

More than 30,000 people passed through this camp, almost all Jewish population of Niš was exterminated,

370 people. Even 12,000 Serbs were taken out from their homes,

put here and afterwards transported to the nearby execution place called Bubanj Hill.

The rest of the people were transported to Auschwitz, Mauthausen, Dachau and other camps in Reich

What's different about this camp is that almost nothing has been changed, apart from wall paint

Yeah

and drainage system. Everything is authentically original, like from 1944, and we on purpose left this like

in original state, just to show people what life is like in a concentration camp without any altering or changing.

Should we go inside the concentration camp itself?

yes

The grounds are very bleak and as I enter the building, the concrete walls certainly get the emotions going.

Germans destroyed most of the evidence of their atrocities, very few photographs and documents

remain but here we can see the magnified photo of the commander of the camp, Werner Schultz.

He was nicknamed ‘Man with Stick’ because his specialty was to kill a person with one blow of his stick.

He also had a trained German Shepherds attack dogs who attacked and bite flesh, human flesh.

And how about all this stuff here? What’s all this?

Everything is authentic even the paint on the window

put by the Germans to prevent prisoners to see what's happening outside.

Wow and what kind of letters have we got here then?

We have a different German orders for arrests of civilians here in Niš

and what particular reason did they give for the arrest?

There was not a reason for arresting people because the Serbs organized massive resistance against the

Germans, and also first towns and villages in Europe were liberated here in Serbia. From that even in 1941

and that's why Hitler ordered we should be treated harshly here

and Germans had many excuses to do that.

He looks like a pretty despicable man, but let's see

what else is in the other rooms and what else he's responsible for?

let's go

So where are we going to now? What's this?

This is one of rooms where Germans kept more than 200 people at the same time packed like sardines

200 in this space?

Yes not very sanitary situation they had a few buckets to go to the bathroom and during the winter just one

layer of clothes so many were freezing to death.

So they died even before they reached the execution place out of starvation, malnutrition.

And in terms of what we can actually see around here.

There's writings on the wall there's even blood isn't there?

Yes bloodstained writings on the wall; those are writings put there by prisoners.

Most of the writings are notes to their families, dates when they were arrested and things like that.

Well let's move on to another part see what else we can see.

This is the room where Germans kept separately women and children

and yes, women and children were also arrested here in Niš, even pregnant women.

So those pregnant women were giving birth here at the concentration camp?

Yes in this very room

So what would happen to them because they were starving? Would they have enough milk for the baby?

No they would have no breast milk so the baby starved actually, as well as their mothers.

So the babies would be starving to death?

and where would the babies be sleeping?

This is one example of the crib where, that was used by the, those mothers to keep their babies.

But often they didn't have any bed, you know to put their babies in.

The museum here is very solemn, and with every room and each piece on display

is as if they were whispering stories of the suffering that was endured here.

This is a place where Germans put the fighters of the resistance groups and political activists who fought

against the German occupation, both Royalists and Communists.

And what can we actually find in some of these cells?

Are they just empty cells? Is there something else in there?

One very horrific invention so-called ‘Carpet made out of Barbed Wire’.

No one survived those cells without shoes, without clothes proper clothes, you can stand for a while

but after a while and you’re exhausted, fell down and you bleed to death.

And there's also other forms of torture, because this is almost like a torture chamber isn't it?

When people came up to the third floor, that was it wasn't it? They were coming here to die?

That was it for them yes, but this was not the end.

Before their gruesome death they were tortured in different ways for example, we have another cell

with a hatch where the Germans put several people.

They block the airflow and people were suffocated to death.

Sometimes when officers are in the mood they suddenly opened the airflow, the hatch, so prisoners,

for a short period of time, come back to life. And then after that they torture them again,

they block the air and they finally die here.

So they were sort of playing God at that point?

Of course, they're playing God, they decided the life and death of numerous people's.

Marko, thank you so much. This has definitely been a real sombre experience, but anybody that's in Niš

definitely needs to come here and show their respects. Thank you so, so much.

Thank You Laura for visiting.

This has certainly had a deep impact on me. Let us hope history never forgets.

Time to change the pace and get out into the open and fortunately there is something nearby that can get

my mind of those deeper thoughts.

Of course people come to Niš for the culture, but it's also the adventure capital of Serbia.

People come here for loads of things paragliding, rock climbing, white-water rafting

and today I'm going mountain biking.

This is so good.

Actually mountain biking is so, so hard but it's really rewarding around here because it's so beautiful,

but I found myself a friend, Ivana you look very professional,

tell us a little bit about the park we're in right now?

Oh thank you, you found me on my favourite place to ride bicycle.

We are in Niš Cabana and these are one of the trails we use for races in highest ranked this was a course for

national championships so you pick up a good one.

Wow and we've just done a couple of the trails, but you yourself this isn't your first time biking at all is it?

Oh, oh no of course not I'm all the time here. I do my technical trainings here maybe twice a week

so I know all these trails you found the right person to show you.

And the wonderful thing about you as well you know, if a tourist actually came here they can get taken out

by professional like you can't they?

Yes of course people all the time ask me on Instagram and Facebook to show them Niš,

and routes here in Niš so I do that.

And I think the other thing as well is the fact that you know, we've got our bikes here, we've worked so hard,

we've come all the way up, we've gone through the trails and now it's a nice rewarding bit.

So are you ok to guide me back down is that okay?

Oh yes of course.

Excellent

Let's go

This is quite a hill actually, I’m just gonna get used to the gears right so let's go

yeah that's easier a little easier to cycle now.

I'm an expert

I don't think so I think I'll just go down this way it's much easier.

I'm exploring the cultural offerings of the city of Niš, which certainly seems to have had a trouble past.

In the centre of the city is a monument known as Skull Tower.

It was built in 1809 by the Turks during their occupation and was constructed using the heads of over 900

Serbian rebels. Today there are only 50 still visible but it makes for quite a gruesome sight.

The Turkish occupation did bring some positives.

Serbian cuisine has a strong Turkish influence and any chef will tell you that it's all down to the ingredients.

My guide Marco has decided to reveal to me the secrets of that wonderful taste.

A lot of the food in Serbia is organic so where better to come and see it and taste it, than Marco's local market.

Where are we?

We are very close to the centre of the city, between the fortress and the main bus stop,

so I suggest that we look around.

And are these typical Serbian fruits here as well, cherries?

Delicious, organic, not treated with any chemicals, cherries. Best in the world.

They look lovely but also over here we can see people shopping for vegetables as well,

what are typical Serbian vegetables?

Tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, garlic, anything you can choose and imagine off

And they do look so tasty I'll be honest, since I've been here in Serbia, I've actually noticed the difference with

these tomatoes they actually taste totally different to the ones back home for me.

Maybe for the first time in your life you will really taste the real tomato and the real vegetable here in Serbia,

and find out what is the taste of a real tomato.

I love that and just to point out the sort of prices here,

so it's around about 135 Dinars to the pound, something like that.

So I've just looked at the prices for the tomatoes, so you can actually get a kilo of tomatoes for just

over a pound. Is that why you know you don't particularly use them tinned you know,

you're cooking from fresh?

Yes it's very food is very cheap here so everyone can enjoy a lot of healthy vegetables here.

and a lot of the food that you're gonna find in the local restaurants,

that's also going to be from these markets isn't it? Very organically cooked?

Correct, correct, not only vegetables and fruits but also animals

Well you know what? It's getting very busy in the market so

I think we're gonna go and explore a little bit more, let's go.

So look at these potatoes here? I mean they just look so fresh and so yummy and like

they've just literally been picked.

Of course yes, they're freshly picked

And again look at that price. Around about 80 pence, back at home for me anyway,

these are really interesting as well are these chilli’s or peppers?

Yes they are peppers. Some are very hot some are not for everyone's taste

Very interesting colours really like that you wouldn't get those at home

I mean you can really feel the atmosphere here, the hustle and the bustle,

there's absolutely everything you can imagine happening here.

This is one specialty here in Serbia and the translation is Wild Garlic.

Wild Garlic?

So-called domestic garlic and this is Wild Garlic

I've actually never seen this

Taste, yes I know, taste is the same as this one

Really

Yes but you pick that on the slopes of the mountains and hills special places it's very healthy.

and hills special places it's very healthy

but you know what Marco I think we've got so much more to explore,

should we go and see what else there is to do in Niš?

Let's go and do it

Let's go

Laura I brought you here to the Fortress, this is the jewel in the crown of Niš. Let's go and explore

Let’s go

Built in the early 18th century Niš fortress is a cultural property of great importance.

It holds regular events and is a great place to just unwind from the city.

Can you tell me a little bit about the fortress?

It is the best-preserved fortress in the centre of the Balkan Peninsula,

and very rare occasion where the centre of the city hasn't been changed for 2,000 years.

Romans came here in the 1st century AD and they build their city called Naissus.

After that, in the Middle Ages, Serbs had the biggest city in medieval Serbia called Niš

and during the Ottoman occupation Turks added Turkish fortress in the 18th century.

It covers 22 hectares and walls are 8 meters high, 3 meters wide

and it is testimony of rich history and archaeology here in the Nišava valley.

Now if I was here, I think I would come up here to get away from it all apart from anything else

it's beautiful and you can see so much from around it.

The mountains, the actual city of Niš itself and you know,

all of this bird's-eye view of the actual fortress is that something that you would do to come up here?

Every time I can do it, I do it, because it's a little bit different temperature from the buildings

and all the concrete and steel there. We have a wind here too, lots of trees, a beautiful park,

you can relax here in the centre of the city and be out of all the noise

I also hear there's a significant monument around here as well is that right?

Yes that is the monument dedicated to our King Milan Obrenovic,

who liberated the city after four centuries of Turkish rule.

Wow can we go and see it?

Yes of course

Excellent let's go

let's go

I brought you here to this very important monument, some locals joke and call it lipstick monument,

but it’s not a lipstick.

I can see why

Yeah actually it's bullet and around the bullet are cannonballs. The symbolism and that the Serbs always

had to fight for freedom with weapons against the enemy and it's dedicated to King Milan,

it says Milan Obrenovic the Prince of Serbia liberated Niš 28th of December 1877.

and you see the year 1877 it is according to Julius Caesar calendar, followed by Serbian Orthodox Church

and in modern calendar it is 1878 actually.

and tell me about King Milan as well?

As he was very important, first of all, historic figure who liberated southern Serbia from Turkish rule.

But he has also rich, private life. One of the biggest Playboy's in 19th century Europe and he has many

mistresses throughout the Europe. But one of his many lovers was a British lady American-born Jennie Jerome

and she refers to him in her diaries.

And what does this actually mean to Serbs themselves?

It marks the end of the dark period of Serbian history, we call it slavery under the Turkish occupation,

for centuries of slavery and the beginning of a new era of freedom in independent Serbia.

Really interesting, really significant as well, but there's so much more to see in the fortress.

Can we go and take a look at some more things?

Let's go

One of the best ways to see the fortress is by train and as it's fun as well isn't it?

Yes of course, not only for children but for grown ups.

This looks like a secret passage

History is full of mystery and, and enigma and indeed under our feet everywhere all over the park

there is a Roman city hidden from view.

But underneath are different passages, different tunnels and building structures

that inspired many locals to talk about those tunnels.

And we're in the entrance to what could be one of those tunnels right now?

Of course, of course

And what where they used for?

Actually underneath is a Roman city the regular streets, regular buildings,

but gradually covered by the dirt by the dust.

So underneath are you can call it new Pompeii,

Wow!

Still undiscovered, only few buildings are presented.

This is a collection of ancient Roman tombstones

this was not the cemetery but two tombstones were brought here.

And all this is 2,000 years old, the youngest 15 centuries old.

And what is important we can read here Gentille, and that means the persons who are buried here are not

of Latin origin, but natives who had a Roman citizenship.

Actually those Roman Emperors, who were born here in Serbia, are all natives from Illyrian and Thracian origin,

not Latin from Italy.

And there's carvings of three of them up there, does that mean there's a family here?

Of course there are family tombstones, individual ones.

Mostly from noble families who could afford these kind of tombstones.

And what else can you find around here?

We can see actual layers of different archaeological and historical periods,

from the Roman time, Byzantine, Serbian and Ottoman on top of it.

And talking of archaeology, I've heard there's a Mosque around here can we actually go and see it?

let's go

okay

So Marco we're at the mosque can you explain a little bit more?

The Mosque is from the sixteenth century,

built by Bali-bey during the period of Sultan Suleiman, Turkish Ottoman ruler.

But under the mosque there are layers of previous buildings from earlier periods.

Turks first they destroyed the Orthodox Church in the 14th century and the city was all in ruins,

but later they built this Mosque and they used also Roman material.

You see those bricks? Red, thin bricks?

Those are 17th century old bricks from the late 3rd in the beginning of the 4th century

very durable and well built. Under the mosque you will see so-called Byzantine streets and different

styles overlapping from the 6th century, the 12th century,

structures from made by architects of Justinian the first famous Byzantine ruler.

Marco this has been an amazing journey for me. I've loved learning about the history, the culture and what a

great place to end here at the mosque as well, the fortress.

Thank you so much for showing me Niš.

Pleasure was all mine.

It’s certainly been a memorable time here in Niš, now though it's time to hit the road and discover more.

I've just left the city of Niš and I'm continuing south to find a town known for relaxation.

But of course I had to stop off on the way to investigate an area of outstanding beauty

with a very curious name.

I'm here in Devil's Town, a geological wonderland. It's full of mysterious rock formations,

how the rocks came to be here and shaped the way they are is shrouded in myth and legends.

I'm going to find our tour guide Slavica to find out more.

Hi, are you Slavica?

Hi I am

Nice to meet you, thank you, tell me a little bit about Devils Town then?

Well you are in protected area of Devil's Town, one of the most famous places as a natural phenomenon

as touristic places in the south of Serbia.

In 2009 we were in competition for new Seven Wonders of the World and we came in shortlisted.

That's really good. Well listen, I want to explore more I've heard there's loads to look at so shall we go?

Yeah, you're almost welcome, please.

It's a reasonable 500-meter walk through a picturesque forest to get to the rock formations.

Luckily there is plenty to see on your way.

We should we should stop here

okay

Because we're near behind the Saxon mines, and they’re original, they are from 13th century.

Wow!

And in 13th century, our Great King Uroš, brought miners from Germany, from area Airedale,

to dig iron ore here. Also in that time except the iron, they found gold and silver and we found the data

saying that, for example, from the iron ore they made, they made weapons and from gold and silver they

make coins and jewellery. So it was very a popular place in that time.

I can imagine and what about this hole we can just see behind us, would people have actually gone in that?

Yeah it's, it's amazing, for example these holes today are more similar to bear caves than to the well

known mines of today time, but for example they are about approximately 800 meters deep

Wow

in the mountain so imagine that you as a miner get into the mountain with the ore or and of course risk your life

Yeah so you're risking you're life going in there

of course

To get the water out and you might not ever come back out

Yeah there are, there were a lot of cases of the miners entering the mountain and never coming back.

and the noticed that the river is a particular colour that's running through you know it's got a sort of

red-y, orange-y is there a reason for that?

Yeah because, because the whole area especially the Mountain Dragon, which is nearby,

is very rich today with iron ore. Because of the oxidation, this colour is very, very specific.

That's why it looks like that.

Not the prettiest water colour I've ever seen, but then, it does add mystery to the name Devil's town.

Absolutely beautiful the scenery around here, do you know what?

This looks like a really good resting point actually.

Yes, yes we can we can have a seat and a little bit rest here because, to Devil’s Town we have

approximately additional 500 meters and as you can see the untouched nature,

is something, which is also unique for this place.

Beautiful

You really do feel lost in nature while you're here and the rest points are useful to take in a moment

before continuing on.

It's so quiet and peaceful that even the occasional snake in the grass is enough to turn you away.

Oh the Red Well that sounds pretty interesting

Yes, because Devils Town is not only famous because its figures but also with two extremely acidic springs

of the water with high mineralization because for example, the red spring its pH value is 3.5

Oh that’s low.

Yes, but we have the worst one yes? And that's the spring of Devil's Water in the centre Devil’s Town

and its pH value is 1.5, so we compared that water with literally acidic acid.

9 kilometres from here we have prolab water, which is extremely soft water 9.5, and also very rare in the world

because for example it's categorized as a water of youth.

This water is the extreme opposite of the town water so in a very small space

we have two very different types of water.

Yeah and is this quite rare to have a 3.5 pH sort of stream here as well?

Yes for example in the world there are also five similar springs.

Oh okay so not many at all

Yeah, three in Russia, two in Italy and these one in Devils Town.

I do enjoy a good forest walk and it's quite free of obstacles to make the journey easy for visitors.

With not much further to go, you can start to see the face of Radan Mountain where the rock formations live

It's certainly high up.

Wow and these stairs are going to take us to hopefully a really exciting point aren't they?

Is this the best view point then? Of Devil's Town?

Well by this stairs we will arrive to the central platform and to the centre of Devil's Town.

Wow.

More stairs

Oh we must be nearly there now mustn't we?

Yeah we just passed by fifty steps so

So we've climbed up over two hundred steps and we’re six hundred meters up in the air just about now,

but my goodness this view is so impressive it's well worth it isn't it?

Yes, now we're on central platform in Devils town so literally we are in centre of natural phenomenon

and in front of us you can see the mountain Radan, which is 30 million years old.

30 million?

Yeah but that was not the main reason that we came here let me show you something else.

This is the main reason why we came in Devils Town, these figures are the essence of the natural

phenomenon. They are 202, there are different tribe, shape and size, they are from 0.5 to 3 meters in width

and from 50 centimetres to 15 meters in height . Most of them as you can see, has those rock hats.

The scientists have an explanation on how these figures are here. By very slow erosion process,

they are made from clay, from volcanic rocks and lime stones and unfortunately even today we don't know

how old they are. But we find documents that even in with Bizantique, Roman and even in the time of Turkish

slavery, the figures were on this place.

But again the scientists said one thing and the people through history and even today say it's something else.

The legend says that the devil came here and that he found the villagers that truly believed in God.

So he got the idea to give them the spring of Devil's Water. They drink that water and get the idea to get

married, brother and sister.

Wow.

The fairy, which lived on Mountain Radan, started to pray to God to stop the marriage. He heard her praise

and transform all wedding guests with the bride and the groom into these figure today because for example,

a lot of people truly believe that the hats on the top of these figures are literally the human hats and that the

body of the figure is a human body. Even when it's raining for example there are a lot of red springs

because of the iron, that I mentioned to you, and those springs are very red and for example some people

believe that the wedding guests are bleeding because of their sin.

My journey has been incredible so far is there anything else to see?

Yes of course I have one more spot to show you.

Ok let's go.

This looks like a church what on earth is it doing in the middle of Devils Town?

Yes, when we started the whole project of Devils Town, this was the place of the remains of the old church

from 5th Century and we also wanted to rebuild it, so we started the project with the church, this is the

church of St. Mother's of God, so there is a legend that one of the villagers had a great sadness

and the people said that he has the devil on his neck, on his back.

Yeah

And he came here during the night and started to pray to God. The devil, afraid and started to run away

and the legend says wherever he put his foot, there on a great rock, there is a hat on the figure of Devil's Town,

to thank to God that villager built the church on this place, so even today we have a lot of tourists, a lot of

guests that come here pray to God in belief that all their problems, or all their, their Devils that are walking

around them, will live in Devil's Town and that they will walk from this place happily.

And there's some candles just over here as well what are they for?

Yes in our Orthodox religion we put the candles, the candles the first level is for the living for the good

health, and the second level is for, the for the death.

And what about this tree over here? Can we have a look at what this is?

Yes, when we started to rebuild the church, in the middle of the church was very big tree and the people

came here, even in those remains, to pray to God and they put their wishes or their problems connected with

the branches of that tree. But unfortunately when we started the rebuilding of the church we needed to cut

the tree, but the branches we left and even today people do the same thing like years, years ago so,

if you like you can do the same thing?

Wow so do I need to write anything down or just think about it?

Yeah you can think about it and put it over there.

Okay do I have to tie it anywhere in particular or?

No you can you can put this wherever you want

So this is my little wish hopefully it comes true.

This has been such an incredible journey thank you so much for showing me around

Thank you Laura, I hope I see you again

Having left Devil's town I continued south, it's late and time for some food before a big day tomorrow.

After a really busy day there's nothing better to do than, come to a traditional Serbian restaurant and have some

really tasty food. After all I've got some pretty hard work tomorrow. I'm going to spa.

The quality of the food in Serbia is just outstanding, combined with value for money and a great atmosphere

eating out is a joy.

It's been quite an unexpected journey but I finally arrived at the town I've been looking forward to.

Time for some pampering I think .

I'm here at Vrnjci Spa it's a famous royal spa town in western Serbia. In fact it dates back to

King Alexander the First, the spa that I'm about to go into from the 1930s.

It's called Rimski spa and quite frankly, if it was good enough for him it's good enough for me.

So let's go inside and check out the treatments.

Rimski spa is a major attraction here and brings thousands of tourists every year

all looking for something very particular.

The water here comes direct from local natural springs and supposedly has healing properties

for all kinds of ailments.

As a result this area has been known as a natural place of healing for centuries.

Before I get wet though I'm going to relax with some massage therapy.

Rimski spa is very much a full Wellness Centre with all kinds of herbal remedies,

lotions and skills designed to make you feel amazing.

Before long I was ready for those magical waters even if I am feeling fine.

I've got to be honest the water does feel great but there's a very interesting smell in the air

must be this miracle water.

Of course the pool isn't really designed for swimming lengths in, but then its purpose is healing

and its reputation stands out in that regard.

I'm loving this whole experience and I totally recommend coming here if you're in the area.

Go on pamper yourself.

Fully relaxed it's time to meet my guide who's going to show me around the town.

Hi I'm Laura, nice to meet you.

Hello, I'm Boyanna, nice to meet you.

So tell me a little bit about Vrnjci Spa?

So Vrnjci Spa is one of the most popular tourist the places here in Serbia.

So it's a combination of traditional things and modern things.

So there is there is a big legacy that was left from Romans, back in time, so we are trying to combine

those traditional things with new modern things. So we can make a unique service

that we can give to our visitors.

And let's talk about, more about the Roman times, so you've actually got things from the Romans here?

Yes, yes many, many years since centuries ago the Romans were very important part of this part of Serbia,

especially Vrnjačka Banja. So they were, they found some coins and after founding those coins,

they also found hot mineral water. So based on those water 4 mineral springs were later found and that

mineral water has a lot of benefits for human health. So that is the most important thing in this town that is

used in also health issues and also in some cosmetic procedures and there is a wide range of uses of that.

Tell me a little bit about the healing properties you mentioned before?

Yes, so there are 4 mineral springs, each of them has some benefits for help. For example I would mention

that one of the mineral springs those waters are very beneficial for, for example eyes, problems with eyes.

Also the other one those waters are very good for kidney problems.

and in terms of this town what else is there to see apart from the Roman baths?

So these parks where we are now, it is the very important part of this town.

Tourists love to go to walk along these areas. So I would also mention Castle Belimarkovic

that was also summer residency of a King Alexander the First.

So it is in traditional style it has all, it always has some exhibitions with traditional things,

so it is also very nice place to visit when you come here.

I would also mention our surroundings in Vrnjačka Banja, because the position of Vrnjačka Banja is very

good, it's very close to many Orthodox monasteries that are very near us.

Also the mountain Goč is maybe twelve, twelve kilometres away from here so it's very close.

So many our tourists go on trips to monasteries, to mountains, there is I think something for everyone.

There's loads to do by the sounds of it so, can we get exploring and go off and see more of the town?

yes

let's go

It's so peaceful here nobody really seems in a hurry, which is really nice.

Boyanna talks of a romantic spot nearby that is a must-see

and has even had poetry written about it. Sounds lovely.

Welcome to the bridge of love

Thank you, what is this bridge all about?

Well this bridge is one very interesting place here in this town. So as you can see there are many padlocks here,

locked on this bridge and the meaning of that is one very interesting love story

about two people from this town. Their names were Raya and Nada and it was around the First World War,

so he had to go to war, he left to Greece and stayed there for a few years.

So after a couple of years she heard, she got the news that he found some Greek woman and that

he got married with her.

Ohno!

So that really broke her heart so after that she died of sadness because she was very sad he found another

girl, and after that the tradition started.

Every couple that came here in this town started putting padlocks on this bridge and locking their love.

After that they would throw the keys in the river, in that way they tried to keep their love alive and to prevent

that what happened to Nada and Raya.

This is the place that many tourists visit when they come here so I would give you this little present.

Well thank you.

So you can lock your love.

So what do I do literally attach it to one of these?

Yes, you attach it to one of these and put the keys in the river

Let's do it then, I’ll attach it to this one

Brilliant

I'm continuing my journey of Western Serbia and it's brought me to this point, Žiča Monastery.

In fact I feel so lucky because apparently we've got a nun who's happy to speak to us,

and she speaks English as well, so let's go inside and find out more.

Serbia does have a lot of monasteries, which makes sense, as their faith is very important here.

Like this one they are all really well kept and stunning to see.

Hi I am Laura

I'm sister Patricia welcome to Monastery Žiča.

Thank you so much, it looks so old and interesting this place can you tell us a little bit about it?

Yes this monastery was built in the beginning of the 13th century. Founder of this monastery is our first

crowned king Saint Stephen First crowned.

He was crowned here in the 1221 and in that time his youngest, younger brother Saint Sava, was archbishop

here because this was seat of our church in that period.

So lots of history going on here

Yeah

well if it's okay with you I'd love to see inside?

yes, yes, yes.

Should we go?

Yes

This is so peaceful and it's so beautiful as well around here

Yes but this is new part of our church because church was bombed in the big beginning of the Second World

War in 1941. Germans bombed the church with the six airplanes and destroyed our library with the

58 thousand books and some parts of church.

This is one of those parts but I show you older part of our church.

oh wow okay

So where are we now?

We are in narthex, this is the old part of our church.

The frescoes that you see are from the beginning of the 14th century

Wow.

And they're very, very I mean,

the fact that they're from so long ago they're actually in quite good condition aren't they?

Yes, yes

For being that old as well

Eight, eight, eight centuries yeah

And in terms of the decoration around here what have we got above us?

This is the oreos and polyeleos, in some part of services we light candles and move

Spin around

Yes, yes

It seems that there's lots of animation here as well, also tell us a bit about these?

This is iconostasis and this is the work of our sisters. Our sisters painted disciples and as you said,

this is all the technique of painting icons with the natural pigments and the gold

Gold leaf?

Yes gold leaf.

And who have we got here?

This is Virgin Mary with the Jesus Christ.

This is angel, Archangel Gabriel and Virgin Mary and this is our Lord Jesus Christ

It's really nice and obviously there's a very nice environment in here, very peaceful environment as well.

And in terms of people, tourists coming along to your services, is it quite welcoming?

Are people nice to you when you come along? It's not scary?

Some of them are scary and they stay outside and

Have a look?

Yes, have a look

Oh so they’re a bit scared at first

Yes

But then they're happy to come in because you're so welcoming to them.

Yes, yes

Well there's some lovely things around here like I said it's very, very ornate as well,

and thank you so much because it's such an honour that you would actually be

able to take the time to speak to us so thank you Patricia.

Thank you and you're welcome to come again if, if you want

I will

Next time on Serbia Old and New.

I experience another one of Serbia's cultural delights and have a go myself.

And I'm off to the mountains for some action, adventure and further sight spotting.

See you next time