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West Tibet.
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The Roof Of The World.
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In the thin air 6000 meters high
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00:00:16,796 --> 00:00:21,046
a vast arid wasteland
as far as the eye can see.
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In this remote corner
of Western Tibet
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00:00:25,212 --> 00:00:28,171
lie the ruins of
a mysterious kingdom.
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A kingdom whose army was feared
by all its neighbors.
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A kingdom which once dominated
the trade in gold,
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silk, and spices
between India and China.
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00:00:46,921 --> 00:00:49,129
It was a kingdom
of fabulous wealth
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00:00:49,337 --> 00:00:52,171
and great religious significance.
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00:00:54,129 --> 00:00:57,046
Scholars argue
that without this kingdom,
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00:00:57,212 --> 00:01:01,296
Tibetan Buddhism would have
withered and died centuries ago.
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00:01:01,629 --> 00:01:03,754
Yet this spiritual
and commercial hub
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00:01:03,962 --> 00:01:05,962
which prospered
for seven centuries
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00:01:06,129 --> 00:01:10,129
vanished almost
without a trace in 1630.
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00:01:19,296 --> 00:01:23,171
What happened to bring this
great civilization to an end?
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Was it the arrival of the first
ever westerners to visit Tibet?
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Or was it the intense rivalry
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between two brothers
fighting for power?
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Why was it completely abandoned?
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And what silent secrets
do these decapitated remains tell?
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To unravel this mystery,
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a Tibetan historian
and an American archaeologist
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travel to
the far reaches of Tibet.
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To these four hundred
year old ruins
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where they will discover
the answers to what happened
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00:02:06,337 --> 00:02:10,087
to the extraordinary
Kingdom of Guge.
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Today this is
all that remains of Guge.
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Its capital city, Tsaparang.
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The grand vision of
the first kings of Guge
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is reflected
in this extraordinary city,
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literally carved
into the side of a mountain.
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Soaring to the heavens the height
of a modern 80-story skyscraper
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it is even today
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one of the largest
structures in Tibet.
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Along its narrow lanes
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you can almost hear
the echoes of the many people
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who toiled to gouge a city
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00:03:04,087 --> 00:03:07,754
from this impenetrable
mount of clay.
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A labyrinth of tunnels and stairs
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leads vertically 300 meters
to the very top of the structure.
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The view is breathtaking
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But this is only a small part of
the once mighty Kingdom of Guge.
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At its height it was twice
the size of Great Britain.
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Experts believe that
somewhere here lies the answer
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to one of the most intriguing
archaeological enigmas in Asia.
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Who exactly built this
extraordinary structure?
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And what could have possibly led
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00:04:01,254 --> 00:04:04,129
to the downfall
of this civilization?
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00:04:08,546 --> 00:04:12,754
In its day,
Guge was the Florence of The East.
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At a time when Genghis
Khan's Mongols
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were advancing into
Central Asia and Europe
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and the Crusades were
being fought in Palestine,
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Guge was a flourishing
centre of commerce,
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art, religion and political power.
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It dominated a strategic
crossroads on the Silk Road
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between Central Asia and China,
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a crossroads for the numerous
caravans trading gold,
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silk, wool and spices.
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00:04:48,754 --> 00:04:52,754
Guge was the centre of
sophisticated art and ideas
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00:04:52,962 --> 00:04:56,171
a magnet for artisans
and intellectuals.
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It was at the heart of
a religious renaissance,
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and home to some of the greatest
Buddhist thinkers of its time.
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00:05:05,629 --> 00:05:08,254
Yet having prospered
for 7 centuries,
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this magnificent Kingdom
disappeared in 1630
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leaving only
an enigmatic structure
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the very last remaining clue
to a lost civilization.
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00:05:21,587 --> 00:05:25,379
These are the first ever
photographs of the Guge Kingdom.
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They were captured in 1933
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by Italian explorer
Giuseppe Tucci.
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00:05:33,087 --> 00:05:38,129
Tucci was the first Westerner to
document these magnificent ruins.
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Tucci was awestruck
by what lay before him.
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He wrote...
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"In front of us
the whole hill side is
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covered with tremendous ruins;
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a dead city which seems
to be keeping vigil
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over a tormented waste of stone."
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Tucci's visit to the ruins of Guge
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unearthed no clues to its demise.
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00:06:12,546 --> 00:06:17,587
That task would be left to
two modern-day experts on Tibet.
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00:06:17,796 --> 00:06:21,712
American John Bellezza is
an explorer and archaeologist
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00:06:21,921 --> 00:06:27,504
who has studied this region's
rich past for the last 20 years.
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00:06:27,712 --> 00:06:32,046
Tibet is ringed by these
incredibly high snow mountains,
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00:06:32,212 --> 00:06:36,962
it's a limpid country of
fantastic mountain ranges
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and broad rivers and pure lakes.
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00:06:40,004 --> 00:06:42,462
Tibet is really
an inspirational land.
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The colors in Tibet,
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the quality of light,
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the ways the shadows are cast
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are unmatched anywhere else
our planet.
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Tibet is surrounded
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by the mighty mountain
ranges of the Himalaya.
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To the South
and West stands India.
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And to the North and East, China.
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The Kingdom of Guge occupied
the arid Western arm of Tibet.
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00:07:13,379 --> 00:07:18,171
Tsaparang is a 5-day drive west
of the Tibetan capital of Lhasa.
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It is an arduous journey
across unpaved roads
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00:07:23,171 --> 00:07:24,962
in some of the least inhabited
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00:07:25,129 --> 00:07:28,546
and harshest landscapes
on the planet.
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00:07:42,546 --> 00:07:44,587
The hardship
and harshness of nature
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has forged a unique spirit
in the people who live here.
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00:07:49,254 --> 00:07:53,671
It's often said that Tibetans are
inherently a spiritual people.
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00:07:53,879 --> 00:07:56,546
I think part of
it is the landscape.
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The Tibetan plateau
just is so high,
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you are so close to the heavens.
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00:08:02,212 --> 00:08:06,796
The closest most people would
get to at this extreme altitude
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00:08:07,004 --> 00:08:08,962
would be flying in an aeroplane.
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It is a harsh,
demanding environment.
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This is where Tsering Gyalpo
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a leading international authority
on Tibetan history
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was born and raised.
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This is his land
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and these are his people
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00:08:34,796 --> 00:08:36,712
Tsering has brought
John Bellezza here
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00:08:36,921 --> 00:08:39,546
to learn about
ancient tales and fables
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from his tribal elders
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The rule inside each tent
is the same for everyone.
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00:08:51,379 --> 00:08:55,087
The left side of the tent
belongs to the women
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and the right side
belongs to the men.
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The area at the back of the tent
belongs to the older generation
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00:09:01,087 --> 00:09:04,837
as a form of respect.
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00:09:05,046 --> 00:09:08,629
Tsering has become a collector
of stories from Guge's past
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00:09:08,837 --> 00:09:11,046
with the help of these elders.
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Oral legends passed down
from generation to generation
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provide one of the few sources
historians like Tsering have
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to piece together the rise
and fall of this lost kingdom.
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00:09:24,587 --> 00:09:26,879
The tales are intriguing
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00:09:27,379 --> 00:09:30,046
the constant struggle
for water in an arid,
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00:09:30,212 --> 00:09:32,087
inhospitable plateau,
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the encounter with strangers
from the outside world
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Tsering and John
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embark on a quest to solve one
of Tibet's greatest mysteries.
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How did the mighty
kingdom of Guge flourish
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in the middle of a harsh desert?
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And what later caused
its dramatic collapse
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in the 17th century?
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00:10:03,462 --> 00:10:06,629
Of all the stories
that shroud this lost city,
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00:10:06,837 --> 00:10:09,921
there is one that is
most often told.
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00:10:10,087 --> 00:10:13,796
It is an extraordinary legend
about a bitter power struggle
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00:10:14,004 --> 00:10:14,962
between two brothers
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that eventually brought
this magnificent
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700-year-old kingdom
to a bloody end.
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One brother was
the last King of Guge.
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His name was Chodakpo
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and he was considered
both the religious
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and political ruler of the land.
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The other was the chief abbot of
one of Tibet's greatest monasteries.
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What is said to have begun
as an argument over authority,
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turned into
a bitter ongoing dispute
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fuelled by jealousy
and the thirst for power.
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This, it is speculated,
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is one plausible explanation
for the eventual demise of Guge.
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There are a lot of
stories out there
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about how the kingdom
of Guge ended.
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We know that all through
its history there were intrigues,
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there were times
when royalty were assassinated,
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the kings lost their positions,
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usurped by a brother
or half-brother
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so there were problems
all along the way.
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King Chodakpo came
from a long line of royalty
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who had ruled the Kingdom
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from the extraordinary
acropolis at Tsaparang.
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00:11:32,962 --> 00:11:36,421
This unusual structure
was once a burgeoning metropolis,
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a city fortress.
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Today,
it's an archaeological bonanza
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for explorers like Bellezza.
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Tsaparang is a wonderful place
to... to wander about.
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00:11:51,921 --> 00:11:53,087
It's like reliving your childhood
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exploring all
the nooks and crannies,
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seeing things for the first time,
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I mean you never know
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what you're going to discover
in the ruins.
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I mean It brings
the civilization alive,
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and its people and its beliefs.
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The heart of Chodakpo's city
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was a sophisticated
labyrinth of tunnels
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connecting the many caves
called pugos.
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00:12:17,629 --> 00:12:20,379
But not all caves
were created equal.
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00:12:21,046 --> 00:12:23,421
The base of the city complex
is where the poor,
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00:12:23,629 --> 00:12:27,129
foot soldiers,
farmers and their families live.
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These laborers worked the fields,
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constructed public works
and served the rich.
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They were the foundation
of Chodakpo's kingdom.
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Out here
in the extreme harsh climate,
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a cave made quite
a comfortable home.
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The clay walls provided insulation
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from both the searing
heat of summer
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and the freezing cold of winter.
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Climbing up the mountain
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also means climbing up
the social ladder.
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Living in caves halfway up
were merchants,
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the middle-class and monks.
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Further up,
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the mountain becomes
more fortress-like,
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protecting those of higher status.
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And at the very top
lived King Chodakpo,
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his family,
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the ministers and their retainers.
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00:14:03,212 --> 00:14:07,087
The royal palace is located on the
summit of the Tsaparang formation.
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And it's really like being
in a penthouse.
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You have unobstructed views
360 degrees,
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00:14:13,962 --> 00:14:15,796
you can see
the rest of the kingdom,
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00:14:16,004 --> 00:14:18,004
the rest of the people below you.
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00:14:18,171 --> 00:14:21,004
It really gives you
a sense of being in command
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00:14:21,171 --> 00:14:24,212
and literally on top of the world.
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Being so high also made the palace
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a perfect strategic location.
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The sheer cliffs on three sides
and the steep summit
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made the citadel
virtually impregnable.
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00:14:40,129 --> 00:14:43,004
From here the slopes
are very steep.
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Any invaders would find it
almost impossible to climb up.
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00:14:52,921 --> 00:14:55,254
John Bellezza and Tsering Gyalpo
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00:14:55,462 --> 00:14:57,462
believe that this is
where the mystery
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00:14:57,671 --> 00:15:00,087
slowly begins to unfold.
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What stories could these
weathered walls tell?
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00:15:06,046 --> 00:15:07,337
Perhaps an answer to a question
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00:15:07,546 --> 00:15:10,504
that's stymied experts
for decades.
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00:15:10,712 --> 00:15:12,087
How did the royals of Guge
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make their way to the top
of the acropolis?
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00:15:16,254 --> 00:15:18,962
Certainly not the steep 30-minute
hike up the narrow,
222
00:15:19,129 --> 00:15:22,254
craggy paths used by commoners?
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00:15:25,046 --> 00:15:26,629
Tsering thinks
he may have discovered
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00:15:26,837 --> 00:15:28,879
a clue to this mystery.
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00:15:29,129 --> 00:15:31,712
At the far end of
the royal complex
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00:15:31,921 --> 00:15:33,879
is a wide-open space
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00:15:34,046 --> 00:15:38,379
which for years experts assumed
was a reception hall for the king.
228
00:15:38,587 --> 00:15:41,671
But after analyzing
the soil composition there,
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00:15:41,879 --> 00:15:45,421
Tsering found traces of
horsehair and manure.
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00:15:45,629 --> 00:15:47,129
When you study the ground,
231
00:15:47,337 --> 00:15:50,004
you can discover
horse manure in the soil.
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00:15:50,171 --> 00:15:53,754
For example,
this here is horse manure.
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00:15:53,962 --> 00:15:59,046
Horse hair can actually be found
mixed in together with the manure.
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00:15:59,254 --> 00:16:04,129
Some people believe that this
manure has sacred properties.
235
00:16:06,254 --> 00:16:09,796
But if indeed there was a stable
high on this mountain,
236
00:16:10,004 --> 00:16:12,046
the question still remains,
237
00:16:12,212 --> 00:16:14,754
how could these horses
have made their way
238
00:16:14,962 --> 00:16:18,587
300 meters to
the top of the citadel?
239
00:16:20,337 --> 00:16:24,712
The answer may have revealed
itself after heavy rains.
240
00:16:24,921 --> 00:16:28,087
Soil erosion uncovered
the entrance to a dark tunnel,
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00:16:28,296 --> 00:16:29,712
with a passageway
242
00:16:29,921 --> 00:16:33,629
that seemed to head down
towards the valley below.
243
00:16:33,837 --> 00:16:37,296
The royalty depended
on this passageway.
244
00:16:37,504 --> 00:16:47,046
It provided safe and secure access
to transport supplies from below.
245
00:16:47,212 --> 00:16:50,921
This secret tunnel would
eventually prove to be useful
246
00:16:51,087 --> 00:16:53,004
not just as transport
247
00:16:53,171 --> 00:16:56,296
but for the survival of
the entire kingdom.
248
00:16:58,462 --> 00:17:01,379
But perhaps the greatest
revelations on Guge
249
00:17:01,587 --> 00:17:03,254
were found here
250
00:17:04,212 --> 00:17:06,962
Within this nearly
inaccessible structure
251
00:17:07,129 --> 00:17:10,004
are clues that hint
at what life in Guge
252
00:17:10,171 --> 00:17:12,171
must have been like.
253
00:17:12,921 --> 00:17:15,546
This is the Red Temple.
254
00:17:16,087 --> 00:17:17,796
Behind these ancient doors,
255
00:17:18,004 --> 00:17:20,921
some of Buddhism's finest
murals tell a story
256
00:17:21,087 --> 00:17:24,879
of one of the greatest
civilizations in Asia
257
00:17:25,046 --> 00:17:26,254
one that in its heyday
258
00:17:26,462 --> 00:17:29,879
was unsurpassed
across the Himalayas.
259
00:17:32,087 --> 00:17:35,046
These murals,
document life in Guge
260
00:17:35,212 --> 00:17:39,671
and present a pictorial history
of this once great kingdom.
261
00:17:40,962 --> 00:17:43,296
The murals of Guge
are simply stunning.
262
00:17:43,504 --> 00:17:45,921
Not only are they great artwork,
263
00:17:46,087 --> 00:17:51,046
but they encapsulate
the experience of the kingdom,
264
00:17:51,254 --> 00:17:54,046
its culture, its people,
its society,
265
00:17:54,254 --> 00:17:55,712
the ways in which
they did business,
266
00:17:55,921 --> 00:17:58,046
the ways in which
they moved about and traded.
267
00:17:58,254 --> 00:18:01,962
These are all represented
in the murals.
268
00:18:02,129 --> 00:18:03,712
This is not merely artwork;
269
00:18:03,921 --> 00:18:06,921
this is history in visual form.
270
00:18:07,837 --> 00:18:10,046
Over the centuries
Tibet and its people
271
00:18:10,212 --> 00:18:13,129
have seen great upheavals.
272
00:18:14,337 --> 00:18:16,962
It began as a unified empire.
273
00:18:17,171 --> 00:18:18,712
Then around the year 850,
274
00:18:18,921 --> 00:18:20,337
the empire fell apart
275
00:18:20,546 --> 00:18:23,671
after a series of
brutal civil wars.
276
00:18:26,046 --> 00:18:28,671
What emerged from the battles
and the bloodshed
277
00:18:28,879 --> 00:18:32,462
was a separate kingdom - Guge.
278
00:18:36,837 --> 00:18:39,046
Guge flourished at
the geographical crossroads
279
00:18:39,254 --> 00:18:42,754
to some of the greatest
civilizations of the time.
280
00:18:48,879 --> 00:18:53,879
Tsaparang was the center of
trade For the Guge kingdom
281
00:18:54,046 --> 00:18:58,004
In the autumn and spring,
nomads would bring wool,
282
00:18:58,171 --> 00:19:01,712
skins and salt to trade
in Tsaparang.
283
00:19:01,921 --> 00:19:03,046
And in the summer,
284
00:19:03,212 --> 00:19:04,921
people from the south
side of the Himalaya
285
00:19:05,087 --> 00:19:07,004
would come down here to trade.
286
00:19:07,171 --> 00:19:08,837
Therefore the prosperity
of the Guge
287
00:19:09,046 --> 00:19:12,837
Kingdom depended on
all this trade.
288
00:19:13,046 --> 00:19:15,171
The king's wealth came
from gold mines.
289
00:19:15,379 --> 00:19:18,171
And this was supplemented by alms
given by pilgrims
290
00:19:18,379 --> 00:19:20,879
traveling through the Kingdom.
291
00:19:22,254 --> 00:19:24,004
None of these riches however
292
00:19:24,171 --> 00:19:27,129
could ensure what the Kingdom
needed most:
293
00:19:27,337 --> 00:19:28,462
water.
294
00:19:31,046 --> 00:19:34,587
Tsaparang lay amidst
a vast and arid desert.
295
00:19:35,212 --> 00:19:37,796
In order to guarantee
Guge's survival,
296
00:19:38,004 --> 00:19:40,754
the King was forced to spend
much of his resources
297
00:19:40,962 --> 00:19:42,962
transporting water to the city
298
00:19:43,129 --> 00:19:46,629
and to the farms
that it depended on.
299
00:19:46,837 --> 00:19:49,046
The ancient irrigation
canals, wells
300
00:19:49,254 --> 00:19:52,046
and even a 20 kilometer
long aqueduct
301
00:19:52,212 --> 00:19:54,171
stretching from the Sutlej River
302
00:19:54,379 --> 00:19:58,337
to the citadel can still
be seen amidst the ruins
303
00:19:58,921 --> 00:20:01,046
evidence of
the massive undertakings
304
00:20:01,254 --> 00:20:03,962
to keep this oasis alive.
305
00:20:08,837 --> 00:20:11,087
With their power
and livelihood secure,
306
00:20:11,296 --> 00:20:13,504
the royals proceeded
to live a life
307
00:20:13,712 --> 00:20:16,462
full of absolute opulence.
308
00:20:18,379 --> 00:20:21,504
The whim of the noble
elite in Guge
309
00:20:21,712 --> 00:20:26,046
to dress well goes beyond
our bounds in the modern period.
310
00:20:26,254 --> 00:20:28,046
These were people
who wore their clothes,
311
00:20:28,212 --> 00:20:32,462
their jewels with no sense
of guilt or regret.
312
00:20:32,671 --> 00:20:34,171
They reveled in beauty,
313
00:20:34,379 --> 00:20:36,504
they reveled in opulence.
314
00:20:36,712 --> 00:20:39,546
Not only did they
wear their beauty,
315
00:20:39,754 --> 00:20:42,879
they lived amidst it too
in their houses,
316
00:20:43,046 --> 00:20:44,004
the way they decorated them
317
00:20:44,171 --> 00:20:47,337
with the greatest artworks
of the times.
318
00:20:50,212 --> 00:20:51,421
In this banquet room,
319
00:20:51,629 --> 00:20:55,587
Chodakpo and his queen would have
enjoyed many social occasions,
320
00:20:55,796 --> 00:20:59,046
entertained by song and dance.
321
00:21:07,129 --> 00:21:11,046
Guge's armory held the finest
weaponry of the time.
322
00:21:11,212 --> 00:21:13,921
Its sword smiths used
sophisticated techniques
323
00:21:14,087 --> 00:21:16,296
to craft superior steel alloys,
324
00:21:16,504 --> 00:21:20,046
making their swords
much sought-after.
325
00:21:22,754 --> 00:21:24,296
But Guge's wealth and power
326
00:21:24,504 --> 00:21:28,254
also attracted the attention
of envious neighbors
327
00:21:28,462 --> 00:21:31,046
who launched frequent attacks
on the kingdom.
328
00:21:32,046 --> 00:21:34,921
Eventually one such
neighbor would discover
329
00:21:35,087 --> 00:21:36,962
a weakness to capitalize on
330
00:21:37,129 --> 00:21:41,046
and Guge's fate
would be sealed forever.
331
00:21:45,129 --> 00:21:47,379
Just 30 kilometers away
down the valley
332
00:21:47,587 --> 00:21:49,921
from the palace at Tsaparang
333
00:21:50,129 --> 00:21:52,712
is the monastery of Tholing.
334
00:21:52,921 --> 00:21:55,046
Today, it is a modest structure,
335
00:21:55,254 --> 00:21:57,837
an eighth of its original size.
336
00:21:58,046 --> 00:21:59,296
But at its peak,
337
00:21:59,504 --> 00:22:02,046
Tholing housed more than 900 monks
338
00:22:02,212 --> 00:22:05,087
and was the largest of
Guge's monasteries
339
00:22:05,296 --> 00:22:07,546
both in size and influence
340
00:22:07,754 --> 00:22:11,212
a power base akin to the Vatican.
341
00:22:11,421 --> 00:22:15,379
Pilgrims flocked to Tholing
and with them came wealth,
342
00:22:15,587 --> 00:22:17,962
which they gave to the monastery.
343
00:22:18,129 --> 00:22:20,796
At the centre of
this spiritual power base,
344
00:22:21,004 --> 00:22:22,046
was the Chief Abbot
345
00:22:22,254 --> 00:22:24,629
King Chodakpo's brother.
346
00:22:24,837 --> 00:22:27,671
Tholing had great power
over the people of Tibet,
347
00:22:27,879 --> 00:22:29,837
Central Asia
and the sub-continents.
348
00:22:30,046 --> 00:22:34,379
It was the greatest religious
center par excellence of its time
349
00:22:34,587 --> 00:22:38,129
and that gave it
the moral authority,
350
00:22:38,337 --> 00:22:42,671
intellectual power
and political prestige
351
00:22:42,879 --> 00:22:46,712
that no other institutions
of the time had.
352
00:22:50,879 --> 00:22:53,004
Even before the rise of Guge,
353
00:22:53,171 --> 00:22:56,004
Buddhism had long-established
roots in Tibet.
354
00:22:56,171 --> 00:22:58,962
But civil war
in Central Tibet would fragment
355
00:22:59,129 --> 00:23:02,087
and dilute Buddhism's role
in society.
356
00:23:03,254 --> 00:23:04,962
From the wake of these upheavals,
357
00:23:05,129 --> 00:23:07,046
it was the early kings of Guge
358
00:23:07,212 --> 00:23:10,879
that championed Buddhism
in Western Tibet.
359
00:23:13,171 --> 00:23:15,421
According to Tsering Gyalpo,
360
00:23:15,629 --> 00:23:17,379
the third King, Yeshe Od,
361
00:23:17,587 --> 00:23:19,379
convened a Buddhist council,
362
00:23:19,587 --> 00:23:23,004
the great prayer festival of 1076.
363
00:23:23,171 --> 00:23:28,254
He invited great Buddhist thinkers
from Tibet and beyond to attend.
364
00:23:30,796 --> 00:23:33,129
His aim was to strengthen
Tibetan Buddhism
365
00:23:33,337 --> 00:23:36,212
and to propagate its philosophies.
366
00:23:37,087 --> 00:23:41,046
Yeshe Od's initiative
was to prove successful.
367
00:23:43,337 --> 00:23:46,546
Amazingly well preserved
centuries old murals
368
00:23:46,754 --> 00:23:49,296
speak of this religious convention
369
00:23:49,546 --> 00:23:53,296
a spiritual gathering
which planted the first seeds
370
00:23:53,504 --> 00:23:57,004
from which
Tibetan Buddhism was reborn.
371
00:23:59,254 --> 00:24:00,504
From that point onward,
372
00:24:00,712 --> 00:24:02,671
Guge became the spiritual
373
00:24:02,879 --> 00:24:05,587
and cultural heart
of Tibetan Buddhism.
374
00:24:08,087 --> 00:24:10,254
The King enticed some
of the greatest Buddhist
375
00:24:10,462 --> 00:24:12,212
leaders of his time.
376
00:24:12,421 --> 00:24:15,504
Not unlike headhunting CEOs today,
377
00:24:15,712 --> 00:24:18,337
he offered them
riches beyond their dreams
378
00:24:18,546 --> 00:24:22,587
if they would only move
to his kingdom.
379
00:24:22,796 --> 00:24:26,421
Guge was at the centre of
a religious renaissance
380
00:24:26,629 --> 00:24:30,962
one that was about to
get even more intense.
381
00:24:34,712 --> 00:24:35,962
From the 11th century,
382
00:24:36,129 --> 00:24:37,837
Kashmir, part of Ladakh
383
00:24:38,046 --> 00:24:42,004
and much of northeast India
were been converted to Islam.
384
00:24:42,171 --> 00:24:43,837
For the next 300 years,
385
00:24:44,046 --> 00:24:47,462
Islam spread throughout
most of the Indian sub continent.
386
00:24:47,671 --> 00:24:48,962
As the Muslims advanced,
387
00:24:49,129 --> 00:24:53,087
they sacked Buddhist temples
and persecuted the devout.
388
00:24:53,296 --> 00:24:57,962
Artists, scholars
and monks fled in fear.
389
00:24:58,129 --> 00:25:00,254
And it was Guge that they fled to.
390
00:25:00,462 --> 00:25:03,462
Because here they found sanctuary.
391
00:25:03,879 --> 00:25:07,337
Buddhism flourished in Guge,
for two reasons.
392
00:25:07,546 --> 00:25:11,504
One was the fulfillment of
the dream of the Tibetan emperors,
393
00:25:11,712 --> 00:25:16,087
the other was the need of
the intellectual community in India
394
00:25:16,296 --> 00:25:19,046
to find a safe and secure home.
395
00:25:19,254 --> 00:25:21,671
Guge was able to cater to both.
396
00:25:22,087 --> 00:25:24,671
And with these
devotees came artisans
397
00:25:24,879 --> 00:25:27,712
leading to
an explosion of creativity.
398
00:25:27,921 --> 00:25:30,796
Frescoes hidden across
the ancient Guge ruins
399
00:25:31,004 --> 00:25:33,629
offer us a glimpse
of these heady times
400
00:25:33,837 --> 00:25:37,212
not unlike Medici Florence
during the Renaissance.
401
00:25:37,796 --> 00:25:40,296
Foreign artists
from across the Buddhist world
402
00:25:40,504 --> 00:25:43,254
brought their own
distinctive style of art
403
00:25:43,462 --> 00:25:45,462
and here influenced each other,
404
00:25:45,671 --> 00:25:48,254
copying and fusing styles
405
00:25:48,462 --> 00:25:52,879
ultimately creating
an entirely new direction in art
406
00:25:53,046 --> 00:25:54,587
the Guge school.
407
00:25:54,796 --> 00:25:58,046
For me one of the stunning things
about these murals
408
00:25:58,212 --> 00:26:00,837
is the sheer diversity
409
00:26:01,046 --> 00:26:04,171
they hold in terms
of human culture;
410
00:26:04,379 --> 00:26:08,046
they depict people
from all over the Buddhist world.
411
00:26:08,212 --> 00:26:12,046
All of the cultures
within the orbit of Guge,
412
00:26:12,212 --> 00:26:14,962
are there on these murals,
413
00:26:16,712 --> 00:26:19,587
The dry mountain air
and remoteness of this area
414
00:26:19,796 --> 00:26:25,212
have helped make these murals
some of the best preserved in Asia.
415
00:26:25,421 --> 00:26:29,004
It is argued that the Guge
Kingdom's commitment to Buddhism
416
00:26:29,171 --> 00:26:31,171
and the influx of
refugee-followers,
417
00:26:31,379 --> 00:26:34,004
was such a powerful force,
418
00:26:34,171 --> 00:26:38,171
Tibetan Buddhism may never
have survived without it.
419
00:26:39,254 --> 00:26:41,171
Today Buddhism is still
420
00:26:41,379 --> 00:26:45,004
an integral part of
everyday life in Tibet.
421
00:26:45,462 --> 00:26:47,087
It is an ancestral gift
422
00:26:47,296 --> 00:26:50,754
that permeates
all levels of society,
423
00:26:54,796 --> 00:26:58,587
Tibetans still flock
to Guge even today.
424
00:26:58,796 --> 00:27:00,504
Not so much for the temples
425
00:27:00,712 --> 00:27:04,212
as for the wondrous peak
towering over Tsaparang
426
00:27:04,421 --> 00:27:07,004
the sacred Mt. Kailash.
427
00:27:11,254 --> 00:27:13,629
These pilgrims are
a reminder of the thousands
428
00:27:13,837 --> 00:27:15,879
who have come to Guge before them.
429
00:27:16,046 --> 00:27:19,254
They are living
proof of a deeper reason
430
00:27:19,462 --> 00:27:22,629
for this most unique
journey in life.
431
00:27:25,712 --> 00:27:28,379
We are from Shigatse,
three days' drive away.
432
00:27:28,587 --> 00:27:30,379
So you've come from Shigatse,
on a pilgrimage!
433
00:27:30,587 --> 00:27:35,254
Yes, this year I will spend two days
circumambulating Mount Kailash.
434
00:27:35,462 --> 00:27:38,254
How long would it
normally take you?
435
00:27:38,462 --> 00:27:41,254
Two days if I go quickly.
436
00:27:41,462 --> 00:27:44,879
How far will you get
after one day?
437
00:27:45,046 --> 00:27:48,921
How far will we get?
438
00:27:49,087 --> 00:27:51,087
We will reach Seripug.
439
00:27:51,296 --> 00:27:55,629
Ahh, the village of Seripug.
440
00:28:05,212 --> 00:28:07,921
Pilgrims like the one Tsering
has come across here,
441
00:28:08,087 --> 00:28:11,587
are on a trek around
the perimeter of a sacred site
442
00:28:11,796 --> 00:28:14,837
in a ritual known as 'Kora'.
443
00:28:16,171 --> 00:28:18,754
Some pilgrims will even
go to profound lengths
444
00:28:18,962 --> 00:28:22,129
to demonstrate their faith
through prostration.
445
00:28:24,046 --> 00:28:25,587
A devotee may take years
446
00:28:25,796 --> 00:28:28,587
to travel hundreds of miles
in this manner.
447
00:28:30,171 --> 00:28:33,546
The Tibetans had this
deep abiding interest
448
00:28:33,754 --> 00:28:36,712
in understanding
the nature of human existence:
449
00:28:36,921 --> 00:28:38,629
why are humans born,
450
00:28:38,837 --> 00:28:41,379
where they come from
and where did they go.
451
00:28:41,587 --> 00:28:43,462
First through
their native traditions
452
00:28:43,671 --> 00:28:48,462
and later on through
the medium of Buddhism,
453
00:28:48,671 --> 00:28:52,962
Tibetans explored
the nature of human existence,
454
00:28:53,129 --> 00:28:56,129
what it means to be a human being.
455
00:28:58,962 --> 00:29:00,921
At the height of
Tholing's influence,
456
00:29:01,087 --> 00:29:06,296
it amassed considerable wealth
from donations made by pilgrims.
457
00:29:07,254 --> 00:29:09,129
By King Chodakpo's reign,
458
00:29:09,337 --> 00:29:12,046
legend has it that
Tholing's influence
459
00:29:12,254 --> 00:29:14,421
and wealth was so great
460
00:29:14,629 --> 00:29:19,046
it began to overshadow the
practical needs of the Kingdom.
461
00:29:20,171 --> 00:29:22,421
Guge relied on
a large pool of labor
462
00:29:22,629 --> 00:29:24,504
to work the irrigation schemes,
463
00:29:24,712 --> 00:29:27,754
grow the barley,
and raise the herds.
464
00:29:28,546 --> 00:29:32,046
But as more and more men
flocked to the monasteries
465
00:29:32,212 --> 00:29:35,962
King Chodakpo saw
his human resources dwindle
466
00:29:36,129 --> 00:29:39,004
and the economy began to suffer.
467
00:29:42,212 --> 00:29:43,796
By 1630,
468
00:29:44,004 --> 00:29:45,962
relations between
the King and his brother
469
00:29:46,129 --> 00:29:48,837
had reached an all time low.
470
00:29:49,046 --> 00:29:51,087
A bitter dispute
broke out between them
471
00:29:51,296 --> 00:29:56,004
a power struggle between
the monastery and the monarchy,
472
00:29:56,171 --> 00:29:59,171
between religion and state.
473
00:30:01,171 --> 00:30:03,004
In the midst of this tension
474
00:30:03,171 --> 00:30:05,754
all that was needed
was a tiny spark
475
00:30:05,962 --> 00:30:10,296
to bring about the beginning
of the end for Guge.
476
00:30:13,337 --> 00:30:14,421
For centuries,
477
00:30:14,629 --> 00:30:16,504
the abandoned ruins of Guge
478
00:30:16,712 --> 00:30:18,712
and the Kingdom that
once flourished here
479
00:30:18,921 --> 00:30:22,921
remained a mystery
and virtually unknown to the West.
480
00:30:23,087 --> 00:30:26,879
Its remote location in the arid
highlands of Western Tibet
481
00:30:27,046 --> 00:30:30,004
kept it preserved almost intact.
482
00:30:34,504 --> 00:30:36,004
In 1957,
483
00:30:36,171 --> 00:30:39,254
China's People's Liberation Army
visited Tsaparang,
484
00:30:39,462 --> 00:30:44,254
giving us the first ever motion
pictures of the abandoned city.
485
00:30:47,629 --> 00:30:49,504
Amongst the heavily eroded ruins,
486
00:30:49,712 --> 00:30:52,046
they discovered intricate
religious objects,
487
00:30:52,254 --> 00:30:58,212
icons and murals telltale
signs of grandeur and opulence.
488
00:30:59,129 --> 00:31:02,712
But it was inside caves
deep within the city
489
00:31:02,921 --> 00:31:06,171
that the soldiers found
the most intriguing revelations:
490
00:31:06,379 --> 00:31:10,629
Amour, shields
and hundreds of arrows.
491
00:31:12,046 --> 00:31:14,046
And in one particular cave
492
00:31:14,254 --> 00:31:19,046
the Cave of the Dead they found
the most grisly of evidence:
493
00:31:19,212 --> 00:31:23,212
the remains of hundreds
of headless corpses.
494
00:31:24,212 --> 00:31:26,712
Whose macabre remains are these?
495
00:31:27,129 --> 00:31:29,129
And how did they get here?
496
00:31:30,254 --> 00:31:33,046
Perhaps answers to these questions
would shed some light
497
00:31:33,212 --> 00:31:36,504
on the mysterious
disappearance of Guge.
498
00:31:37,587 --> 00:31:39,962
But we would have to wait
another 20 years
499
00:31:40,129 --> 00:31:42,629
for that illumination.
500
00:31:42,837 --> 00:31:47,046
In 1985, a team from Xi'an
Archaeological Institute
501
00:31:47,212 --> 00:31:49,879
stumbled upon an intriguing clue.
502
00:31:50,046 --> 00:31:54,546
An ancient paper mask probably
used in a religious ceremony.
503
00:31:55,379 --> 00:31:57,379
It seemed quite ordinary at first,
504
00:31:57,587 --> 00:31:59,254
but when they turned it over,
505
00:31:59,462 --> 00:32:03,504
they found traces of
an unrecognizable Western script.
506
00:32:04,629 --> 00:32:06,587
Months of research
would reveal this
507
00:32:06,796 --> 00:32:09,671
to be a section of pages
from a Bible
508
00:32:09,879 --> 00:32:12,296
written in an ancient
from of Portuguese
509
00:32:12,504 --> 00:32:14,837
used by early Jesuits.
510
00:32:16,254 --> 00:32:19,046
But how could the pages of
an old Catholic Bible
511
00:32:19,212 --> 00:32:21,796
come to be part of
a Tibetan shaman's mask
512
00:32:22,004 --> 00:32:24,212
in the far reaches of Guge.
513
00:32:27,837 --> 00:32:29,296
In 1624,
514
00:32:29,504 --> 00:32:32,796
a Jesuit missionary
Father Antonio Andrade
515
00:32:33,004 --> 00:32:36,379
wrote a book highly
popular across Europe.
516
00:32:38,004 --> 00:32:42,337
In it he describes his visit to
an amazing country called Tibet.
517
00:32:42,546 --> 00:32:46,462
Father Andrade and his companion
trekked from their mission in Goa
518
00:32:46,671 --> 00:32:49,462
in search of
a long forgotten Christian state
519
00:32:49,671 --> 00:32:51,421
called Shambhala.
520
00:32:52,129 --> 00:32:55,421
Instead, they discovered Guge.
521
00:33:01,921 --> 00:33:03,879
By this time, the story goes:
522
00:33:04,046 --> 00:33:06,254
tensions between Chodakpo
and his brother
523
00:33:06,462 --> 00:33:08,129
were at an all time high.
524
00:33:08,504 --> 00:33:11,296
And they were about to get worse.
525
00:33:12,171 --> 00:33:15,254
The King warmly welcomes Andrade.
526
00:33:15,462 --> 00:33:18,254
In his book Andrade writes:
527
00:33:18,462 --> 00:33:19,671
"As holy men,
528
00:33:19,879 --> 00:33:23,004
the king treated us with great
reverence and then explained,
529
00:33:23,171 --> 00:33:24,837
somewhat to my surprise,
530
00:33:25,046 --> 00:33:27,087
that he wished to
understand our faith.
531
00:33:28,129 --> 00:33:31,879
This was as welcome
as it was unexpected."
532
00:33:34,379 --> 00:33:36,671
Not only does Chodakpo
proclaim the pair
533
00:33:36,879 --> 00:33:38,962
to be his personal guests,
534
00:33:39,129 --> 00:33:42,004
he invites them to stay
and teach their beliefs,
535
00:33:42,171 --> 00:33:45,129
even ordering
the building of a chapel.
536
00:33:46,462 --> 00:33:50,712
Such behaviours would have
infuriated the Buddhists at Tholing.
537
00:33:50,921 --> 00:33:54,504
They saw the King's actions
as a betrayal against Buddhism.
538
00:33:54,712 --> 00:33:58,462
It was a move
that would not go unanswered.
539
00:33:58,671 --> 00:34:02,004
According to stories later
recorded by Andrade,
540
00:34:02,254 --> 00:34:05,546
what happened next was
an uprising against the King
541
00:34:05,754 --> 00:34:09,421
that would forever change
the course of Guge's history...
542
00:34:10,171 --> 00:34:12,046
Seeking to protect his stronghold,
543
00:34:12,212 --> 00:34:14,587
the Head Abbott sends
word to his supporters
544
00:34:14,796 --> 00:34:19,379
in the neighboring Kingdom of
Ladakh 500 kilometers away.
545
00:34:21,629 --> 00:34:23,796
Seizing this
long awaited opportunity,
546
00:34:24,004 --> 00:34:27,046
the Ladakhis marched
across the border of Guge,
547
00:34:27,212 --> 00:34:28,796
overcoming each fortress
548
00:34:29,004 --> 00:34:30,921
and embattlement in their path
549
00:34:31,087 --> 00:34:34,087
until they reached
the capital Tsaparang.
550
00:34:35,087 --> 00:34:36,087
By this time,
551
00:34:36,296 --> 00:34:40,046
Guge's economic and political
resources were strained.
552
00:34:40,254 --> 00:34:42,171
No reinforcements would be coming.
553
00:34:42,379 --> 00:34:46,462
And Tsaparang would have to face
the invaders on its own.
554
00:34:48,254 --> 00:34:52,129
But taking Tsaparang
would not be easy.
555
00:34:52,879 --> 00:34:54,879
The capital's Western
and Southern approaches
556
00:34:55,046 --> 00:34:59,129
are sheer vertical walls
virtually attack-proof.
557
00:34:59,337 --> 00:35:00,754
At the summit,
558
00:35:00,962 --> 00:35:03,879
the royal palace was protected
by a defensive wall
559
00:35:04,046 --> 00:35:06,171
running along its perimeter.
560
00:35:08,046 --> 00:35:10,629
The only possible approach
for the Ladakhi forces
561
00:35:10,837 --> 00:35:14,421
was up a gently sloping hill
on the north-east,
562
00:35:14,629 --> 00:35:18,671
but even this route was blocked
by a substantial wall.
563
00:35:20,962 --> 00:35:23,837
When the Ladakhi army
reached Tsaparang
564
00:35:24,046 --> 00:35:25,046
they were flush with victory.
565
00:35:25,254 --> 00:35:29,837
They had conquered
all the satellite fortresses.
566
00:35:30,046 --> 00:35:33,254
They were now primed
for the final battle.
567
00:35:58,462 --> 00:36:03,046
How this final battle began
is a matter of some uncertainty,
568
00:36:03,212 --> 00:36:04,462
but scholars believe
569
00:36:04,671 --> 00:36:08,504
the entrance to the city
was stormed by the Ladakhis.
570
00:36:45,296 --> 00:36:47,004
Breaking through the city gates,
571
00:36:47,171 --> 00:36:49,587
the Ladakhis overcame
Guge's resistance
572
00:36:49,796 --> 00:36:53,254
and took control of
the lower part of the citadel.
573
00:36:54,379 --> 00:36:57,712
But as they chased the retreating
soldiers and citizens of Guge
574
00:36:57,921 --> 00:37:01,046
up the passageways
and tunnels to its summit,
575
00:37:01,254 --> 00:37:04,587
the Ladakhis found themselves
sitting ducks.
576
00:37:04,796 --> 00:37:06,962
As they snaked towards the summit,
577
00:37:07,129 --> 00:37:09,462
these passageways narrowed.
578
00:37:09,671 --> 00:37:12,796
The Ladakhis had to pass through
them almost single file
579
00:37:13,004 --> 00:37:16,337
making them easy targets
for Guge's forces.
580
00:37:16,546 --> 00:37:18,296
After taking heavy losses,
581
00:37:18,504 --> 00:37:22,379
the Ladakhis retreated
to the lower ramparts to regroup.
582
00:37:22,587 --> 00:37:24,546
It became clear to the Ladakhis
583
00:37:24,754 --> 00:37:28,087
that a frontal assault
on the citadel would be impossible.
584
00:37:28,296 --> 00:37:31,421
Instead,
they chose to sit and wait.
585
00:37:31,629 --> 00:37:34,796
By surrounding the citadel
the Ladakhis were confident
586
00:37:35,004 --> 00:37:38,421
they had blocked all avenues of
escape and fresh supplies
587
00:37:38,629 --> 00:37:40,629
especially water.
588
00:37:40,837 --> 00:37:42,796
How long could Chodakpo
and his people
589
00:37:43,004 --> 00:37:45,796
hold out In this dry environment?
590
00:37:46,004 --> 00:37:47,712
But unknown to the Ladakhis,
591
00:37:47,921 --> 00:37:51,421
Guge might have had a trick
or two up its sleeve.
592
00:37:51,629 --> 00:37:54,296
Deep beneath the citadel lies
a network of caves
593
00:37:54,504 --> 00:37:59,837
that John Bellezza and Tsering
Gyalpo found to be most unusual.
594
00:38:00,046 --> 00:38:03,712
These were originally thought
to be a royal winter retreat.
595
00:38:03,921 --> 00:38:05,546
To escape the bitter
cold of winter,
596
00:38:05,754 --> 00:38:10,046
scholars believed the royal family
would have come here to keep warm.
597
00:38:11,212 --> 00:38:13,421
But as John and Tsering
explore further,
598
00:38:13,629 --> 00:38:16,837
they find evidence
that suggests these caves
599
00:38:17,046 --> 00:38:19,587
may have had some other purpose.
600
00:38:19,796 --> 00:38:24,504
There is no sign of
smoke in this cave.
601
00:38:24,712 --> 00:38:26,796
You're right.
602
00:38:27,004 --> 00:38:30,712
There is no evidence
of soot in this cave.
603
00:38:30,921 --> 00:38:32,337
I think that this cave
must have been used as
604
00:38:32,546 --> 00:38:35,171
a storeroom
or warehouse of some sort.
605
00:38:35,379 --> 00:38:38,629
Every cave connected to
this one is similar.
606
00:38:38,837 --> 00:38:42,046
I think these are
obviously not dwellings,
607
00:38:42,254 --> 00:38:44,962
but rather, rooms for storage.
608
00:38:45,129 --> 00:38:47,462
If this was being
used for lodging,
609
00:38:47,671 --> 00:38:49,171
there would be some kind of trace
from the smoke of a fire.
610
00:38:49,379 --> 00:38:51,212
Also there would be
a proper doorway,
611
00:38:51,421 --> 00:38:53,296
maybe a wooden one.
612
00:38:53,504 --> 00:38:57,837
The ceiling would
also be much higher
613
00:38:59,421 --> 00:39:01,046
Tsering reckons these caves
614
00:39:01,254 --> 00:39:04,337
could have stored food
and supplies to last a year.
615
00:39:05,462 --> 00:39:06,421
So in theory,
616
00:39:06,629 --> 00:39:09,462
Guge could have
held out for a while.
617
00:39:12,129 --> 00:39:14,712
Apparently these secret passages
618
00:39:14,921 --> 00:39:20,046
also allowed the besieged
people of Guge access to water.
619
00:39:22,004 --> 00:39:25,921
Some passages led to an exit
near the Sutlej River.
620
00:39:27,046 --> 00:39:28,837
With food and water available,
621
00:39:29,046 --> 00:39:32,212
Tsaparang held out
for close to a month
622
00:39:32,421 --> 00:39:36,421
before the Ladakhis
stepped up the offensive.
623
00:39:38,712 --> 00:39:41,046
By now the invaders had taken over
624
00:39:41,212 --> 00:39:43,879
the unprotected lower
sections of the citadel,
625
00:39:44,046 --> 00:39:47,337
and had gained had a crucial
bargaining chip in the process
626
00:39:47,546 --> 00:39:50,462
thousands of Guge prisoners.
627
00:39:53,754 --> 00:39:57,712
Half way up the citadel stands
a very peculiar stone partition,
628
00:39:57,921 --> 00:40:01,421
unlike anything
else found in Tsaparang.
629
00:40:01,629 --> 00:40:03,462
The wall is very interesting.
630
00:40:03,671 --> 00:40:04,546
It's built of stone,
631
00:40:04,754 --> 00:40:06,587
while the other buildings were
632
00:40:06,796 --> 00:40:11,337
primarily built of
earth or mud brick.
633
00:40:11,546 --> 00:40:15,212
It doesn't have any obvious
habitational function;
634
00:40:15,421 --> 00:40:19,046
it doesn't have any obvious
defensive function.
635
00:40:19,254 --> 00:40:21,254
So why was the wall there?
636
00:40:22,254 --> 00:40:25,629
If storming the citadel through
the tunnels was impossible,
637
00:40:25,837 --> 00:40:29,671
then the only other option would
be to build a siege tower
638
00:40:31,129 --> 00:40:33,629
and by the most ruthless of means
639
00:40:33,837 --> 00:40:36,837
on the backs of
captured Guge prisoners.
640
00:40:38,129 --> 00:40:41,046
The royal precinct was
virtually unassailable.
641
00:40:41,212 --> 00:40:45,004
The Ladakhi army reached
a shelf beneath the sheer summit.
642
00:40:45,171 --> 00:40:49,212
They were stuck here
for close to a month
643
00:40:49,421 --> 00:40:51,837
so they began to
build a siege tower
644
00:40:52,046 --> 00:40:54,754
with pressed Guge labor.
645
00:40:54,962 --> 00:40:57,004
They had to bring stones
from a black mountain
646
00:40:57,171 --> 00:40:59,962
from the far side
of the Sutlej River.
647
00:41:02,212 --> 00:41:04,004
As the siege tower rose,
648
00:41:04,171 --> 00:41:07,379
it claimed the lives
of many Guge slaves.
649
00:41:08,379 --> 00:41:12,379
Ancient stories tell of how the
slaves were beaten so mercilessly
650
00:41:12,587 --> 00:41:15,712
that their organs showed
through their flesh.
651
00:41:19,629 --> 00:41:22,046
But building a 100-meter
structure of this kind
652
00:41:22,212 --> 00:41:26,004
would have been a near impossible
engineering feat for its time.
653
00:41:26,171 --> 00:41:29,754
Instead, experts believe
the Ladakhi siege tower
654
00:41:29,962 --> 00:41:33,837
was a psychological
rather than physical gambit
655
00:41:37,212 --> 00:41:41,087
how long could King Chodakpo
bear to watch the daily torture
656
00:41:41,296 --> 00:41:44,212
and suffering of
his captured subjects?
657
00:41:45,796 --> 00:41:48,421
As legend has it,
658
00:41:48,629 --> 00:41:53,004
the last king, Chodakpo
seeing the great suffering
659
00:41:53,171 --> 00:41:56,087
that his people were enduring
building this wall without food
660
00:41:56,296 --> 00:42:02,296
and as they died as they succumbed
to the pressures of construction.
661
00:42:02,504 --> 00:42:06,046
He saw the great sufferings
that his people were undergoing.
662
00:42:07,171 --> 00:42:08,421
And he had great pity,
663
00:42:08,629 --> 00:42:13,504
the king of Guge and he decided,
664
00:42:13,712 --> 00:42:16,046
it must have been
a difficult decision
665
00:42:16,254 --> 00:42:18,754
but he decided
in the end to surrender.
666
00:42:21,046 --> 00:42:22,212
According to legend,
667
00:42:22,421 --> 00:42:24,712
in the final hour of Guge,
668
00:42:24,921 --> 00:42:26,546
King Chodakpo and his retinue
669
00:42:26,754 --> 00:42:29,962
made their poignant descent
from summit to base,
670
00:42:30,129 --> 00:42:32,462
even bearing gifts of
gold and silver
671
00:42:32,671 --> 00:42:34,587
to appease the invaders.
672
00:42:35,296 --> 00:42:38,046
But the reception
they received from the Ladhakis
673
00:42:38,254 --> 00:42:41,087
is surrounded in controversy.
674
00:42:42,587 --> 00:42:44,004
In one fell swoop,
675
00:42:44,171 --> 00:42:47,712
the 700-year-old kingdom of Guge
had been conquered.
676
00:42:47,921 --> 00:42:50,087
But what happened
after the King surrendered
677
00:42:50,296 --> 00:42:52,754
is still shrouded in mystery.
678
00:42:56,129 --> 00:42:59,296
John Bellezza and Tsering Gyalpo
have their own ideas
679
00:42:59,504 --> 00:43:04,046
ideas that take them
to the infamous Cave of the Dead.
680
00:43:05,587 --> 00:43:07,171
Could the bodies
that the Chinese Army
681
00:43:07,379 --> 00:43:09,087
saw more than 50 years ago
682
00:43:09,296 --> 00:43:12,421
be the corpses of
the last royals of Guge?
683
00:43:12,629 --> 00:43:13,879
The only answer
684
00:43:14,046 --> 00:43:17,629
is the overwhelming
stench of more recent decay.
685
00:43:17,837 --> 00:43:19,962
The cave, unfortunately,
686
00:43:20,129 --> 00:43:22,421
has once again
become a burial site.
687
00:43:22,629 --> 00:43:23,587
And in recent years,
688
00:43:23,796 --> 00:43:28,171
remains of Tibetans have
once again been deposited that.
689
00:43:28,379 --> 00:43:32,837
And this is actually complicating
the archaeology of determining
690
00:43:33,046 --> 00:43:34,587
what was really there originally,
691
00:43:34,796 --> 00:43:36,504
or what's come after.
692
00:43:39,171 --> 00:43:42,171
In Tibet,
the dead received a "sky burial...
693
00:43:42,379 --> 00:43:45,879
This means corpses are
"carried away by birds."
694
00:43:46,046 --> 00:43:48,171
Skilled morticians
cut up the dead body
695
00:43:48,379 --> 00:43:52,254
to encourage eagles
and vultures to consume the flesh.
696
00:43:53,129 --> 00:43:56,129
Local tales suggest
that at one time
697
00:43:56,337 --> 00:44:00,171
the cave may have held
as many as 400 skeletons.
698
00:44:00,546 --> 00:44:02,337
But over time, bandits,
699
00:44:02,546 --> 00:44:05,004
scholars and the curious
have taken much,
700
00:44:05,171 --> 00:44:07,879
leaving but a few remains.
701
00:44:09,546 --> 00:44:13,712
Tibetan rituals of the dead
forbid any possible DNA studies.
702
00:44:13,921 --> 00:44:16,712
But John Bellezza believes
this could very well be
703
00:44:16,921 --> 00:44:20,254
the resting place of
the last King of Guge.
704
00:44:21,462 --> 00:44:23,129
There is some evidence
that lends credence
705
00:44:23,337 --> 00:44:25,212
to the idea that indeed
706
00:44:25,421 --> 00:44:28,504
the corpses in the cave were
those of the royal family of Guge.
707
00:44:28,712 --> 00:44:32,004
Most of them seem to
have been beheaded,
708
00:44:32,171 --> 00:44:34,046
to have undergone execution
709
00:44:34,212 --> 00:44:36,337
so that probably would
not have been the case
710
00:44:36,546 --> 00:44:37,587
for the common soldier
711
00:44:37,796 --> 00:44:41,296
who would have fallen
on the battleground.
712
00:44:44,504 --> 00:44:46,504
John's theory supports one legend
713
00:44:46,712 --> 00:44:50,254
that tells of a brutal
and merciless execution.
714
00:44:50,921 --> 00:44:53,004
After having surrendered
his Kingdom,
715
00:44:53,171 --> 00:44:56,504
the King and his ministers
were beheaded on the spot.
716
00:44:57,462 --> 00:45:01,254
The royal women also
met an equally gruesome end.
717
00:45:05,296 --> 00:45:08,087
There is a poem that purportedly
tells of the Massacre.
718
00:45:08,296 --> 00:45:11,087
It describes
how the royal women were taken
719
00:45:11,296 --> 00:45:14,171
and thrown from
the palace ramparts.
720
00:45:15,712 --> 00:45:18,796
To the people below
these brightly dressed princesses
721
00:45:19,004 --> 00:45:22,212
"looked like spring flowers
falling from heaven"
722
00:45:23,254 --> 00:45:24,587
The Ladakhi soldiers
723
00:45:24,796 --> 00:45:28,921
yelled and shouted to see
more and more flowers!
724
00:45:38,879 --> 00:45:40,046
As for the Abbott,
725
00:45:40,254 --> 00:45:43,629
he met his doom
at the end of a Ladakhi sword.
726
00:45:43,879 --> 00:45:46,379
Treachery was repaid by treachery
727
00:45:46,587 --> 00:45:50,046
as he was double-crossed
by his supposed allies.
728
00:45:52,004 --> 00:45:54,337
But a mystery still remains.
729
00:45:54,546 --> 00:45:58,087
Why was Tsaparang
entirely abandoned?
730
00:45:59,421 --> 00:46:01,254
According to local legend,
731
00:46:01,462 --> 00:46:04,212
an aqueduct was built
by the last king of Guge
732
00:46:04,421 --> 00:46:08,504
to bring water from the sacred
snow mountain, 80 kilometers away.
733
00:46:08,712 --> 00:46:11,296
The aqueduct crossed
through sacred territory
734
00:46:11,504 --> 00:46:14,046
so the local deities became
angry with the king.
735
00:46:14,254 --> 00:46:15,837
They cursed him,
736
00:46:16,046 --> 00:46:20,254
and it is said that this was
the reason for his defeat.
737
00:46:22,337 --> 00:46:23,754
From the top of the citadel
738
00:46:23,962 --> 00:46:27,504
you can still see the imprint
left by the ancient aqueduct
739
00:46:27,712 --> 00:46:30,087
following the contours
of the hill.
740
00:46:30,796 --> 00:46:33,087
Even the legend
Tsering Gyalpo speaks of
741
00:46:33,296 --> 00:46:35,296
has a basis in science.
742
00:46:36,046 --> 00:46:40,379
Guge is in the shadow of three of
the world's largest mountain ranges,
743
00:46:40,587 --> 00:46:42,087
the Himalayas,
744
00:46:42,296 --> 00:46:45,546
the Karakoram and the Kunlun.
745
00:46:48,212 --> 00:46:51,046
Research shows that
the climate in West Tibet
746
00:46:51,212 --> 00:46:54,671
has been steadily changing
over the past millennia.
747
00:46:55,212 --> 00:46:57,212
And that Man has been
on the losing end
748
00:46:57,421 --> 00:47:00,671
of an age-old battle with Nature.
749
00:47:02,879 --> 00:47:04,837
Areas that were once moist
750
00:47:05,046 --> 00:47:07,129
and relatively lush are now dry
751
00:47:07,337 --> 00:47:08,837
and have become deserts.
752
00:47:09,046 --> 00:47:12,712
And in Guge this process is
all the more intensified
753
00:47:12,921 --> 00:47:15,004
because it's located
in a rain shadow
754
00:47:15,171 --> 00:47:18,796
of Asia's greatest
mountain ranges.
755
00:47:19,004 --> 00:47:23,129
Evidence of this ongoing force
known as desertification
756
00:47:23,337 --> 00:47:28,921
comes from satellite photographs of
once arable fields now abandoned.
757
00:47:30,087 --> 00:47:33,046
But not all of them moved away.
758
00:47:33,212 --> 00:47:35,087
In the middle of
the desert-like conditions
759
00:47:35,296 --> 00:47:37,671
that surround modern Tsaparang,
760
00:47:38,046 --> 00:47:42,546
there are still a few places with
enough moisture to grow barley.
761
00:47:42,754 --> 00:47:45,587
The fall of the Guge kingdom
might not have been triggered
762
00:47:45,796 --> 00:47:49,004
by just one major
military campaign,
763
00:47:49,171 --> 00:47:50,796
but rather from a long term
764
00:47:51,004 --> 00:47:54,296
sustained assault from
Mother Nature herself.
765
00:47:56,046 --> 00:47:56,921
Even today,
766
00:47:57,087 --> 00:48:00,046
400 years after
the fall of the citadel,
767
00:48:00,212 --> 00:48:03,462
nature is still battling
with the remaining few farmers
768
00:48:03,671 --> 00:48:07,212
struggling to eke out
an existence from the land.
769
00:48:07,629 --> 00:48:09,046
The farmers explain to John
770
00:48:09,212 --> 00:48:11,879
that they have been trying to
grow barley in these fields.
771
00:48:12,046 --> 00:48:13,504
During the time of
the Guge Kingdom,
772
00:48:13,712 --> 00:48:16,921
the water level was
much higher than it is now.
773
00:48:17,087 --> 00:48:20,004
The lack of water has now driven
them to the lower areas
774
00:48:20,171 --> 00:48:22,879
right next to the river.
775
00:48:23,046 --> 00:48:25,046
The demise of the Guge Kingdom
776
00:48:25,212 --> 00:48:27,879
was the end of
a line of Tibetan monarchs
777
00:48:28,046 --> 00:48:33,629
that stretched
from 1630 back to 200 years AD.
778
00:48:34,004 --> 00:48:37,046
But the legacy of Guge
lives on in festivities
779
00:48:37,254 --> 00:48:39,462
like this annual horse fair
780
00:48:42,087 --> 00:48:44,046
As they would have centuries ago,
781
00:48:44,254 --> 00:48:47,462
Buddhist monks are on hand
to bless the jockeys,
782
00:48:47,671 --> 00:48:50,837
wishing them a successful
and safe endeavor.
783
00:48:53,337 --> 00:48:57,462
Participants dip their fingers
into beer and flick it heavenward
784
00:48:57,671 --> 00:48:59,046
a sign of gratitude,
785
00:48:59,212 --> 00:49:02,046
and an offering to the divine.
786
00:49:08,462 --> 00:49:10,046
But it is when the races begin,
787
00:49:10,254 --> 00:49:14,212
that we are reminded of
the lineage of these hardy men.
788
00:49:17,087 --> 00:49:21,629
Cavalry skills passed down for
generations from father to son.
789
00:49:21,837 --> 00:49:26,296
Each the proud bearer of the
heritage of his warrior-ancestors.
790
00:49:38,296 --> 00:49:39,921
At a sacred prayer site
791
00:49:40,087 --> 00:49:43,046
Tsering Gyalpo,
a native of these parts,
792
00:49:43,212 --> 00:49:47,212
makes his offering to
these ancestors and the divine:
793
00:49:47,504 --> 00:49:49,629
This is my prayer
794
00:49:49,837 --> 00:49:51,337
I will make offerings
again and again
795
00:49:51,546 --> 00:49:54,962
and give thanks for the blessing
and protection provided me.
796
00:49:55,129 --> 00:49:59,046
My spirit offers eternal devotion.
797
00:50:01,296 --> 00:50:03,962
After the fall of
the last King of Guge,
798
00:50:04,129 --> 00:50:08,421
Tsaparang became an unpleasant
place for its citizens.
799
00:50:09,129 --> 00:50:12,004
The Ladakhis administered
the region for 50 years
800
00:50:12,171 --> 00:50:14,629
before being driven out
by the Tibetans
801
00:50:14,837 --> 00:50:16,837
and their Mongol allies.
802
00:50:17,587 --> 00:50:21,754
The Mongols did not take
well to the deep canyons
803
00:50:21,962 --> 00:50:24,671
and dry lands of Western Tibet.
804
00:50:24,879 --> 00:50:27,046
And they decided to
relocate the capital
805
00:50:27,212 --> 00:50:29,921
to higher more open grounds.
806
00:50:30,087 --> 00:50:34,129
With that relocation
of the capital of Western Tibet,
807
00:50:34,337 --> 00:50:38,087
Guge utterly falls
into ruins and decay,
808
00:50:38,296 --> 00:50:41,171
which has continued
till the very present day.
809
00:50:42,046 --> 00:50:45,379
After the defeat
and demise of Guge's last king,
810
00:50:45,587 --> 00:50:48,004
the reins of power were
eventually taken over
811
00:50:48,171 --> 00:50:51,046
by the spiritual leader
of another Buddhist sect
812
00:50:51,254 --> 00:50:53,212
the 5th Dalai Lama.
813
00:50:54,046 --> 00:50:56,254
Ironically, the king's brother
814
00:50:56,462 --> 00:50:59,046
the Abbot who fought
for a Buddhist state
815
00:50:59,212 --> 00:51:02,421
had won the final battle
after all.
816
00:51:05,254 --> 00:51:10,421
The ancient kings of Guge
had a vision of a land of dharma,
817
00:51:10,629 --> 00:51:12,337
of sacred holiness,
818
00:51:12,546 --> 00:51:14,754
which has left an indelible mark
819
00:51:14,962 --> 00:51:19,046
not only on Tsaparang
but on all of Tibet.
820
00:51:22,671 --> 00:51:26,087
Their gift of Buddhism remains
strong and deeply ingrained
821
00:51:26,296 --> 00:51:30,087
in the memory of what was
once a great kingdom
822
00:51:30,296 --> 00:51:33,462
the Kingdom of Guge.
65781
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