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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:08,004 --> 00:00:09,337 West Tibet. 2 00:00:09,546 --> 00:00:11,712 The Roof Of The World. 3 00:00:13,754 --> 00:00:16,587 In the thin air 6000 meters high 4 00:00:16,796 --> 00:00:21,046 a vast arid wasteland as far as the eye can see. 5 00:00:22,504 --> 00:00:25,046 In this remote corner of Western Tibet 6 00:00:25,212 --> 00:00:28,171 lie the ruins of a mysterious kingdom. 7 00:00:31,712 --> 00:00:35,129 A kingdom whose army was feared by all its neighbors. 8 00:00:37,004 --> 00:00:40,004 A kingdom which once dominated the trade in gold, 9 00:00:40,171 --> 00:00:43,379 silk, and spices between India and China. 10 00:00:46,921 --> 00:00:49,129 It was a kingdom of fabulous wealth 11 00:00:49,337 --> 00:00:52,171 and great religious significance. 12 00:00:54,129 --> 00:00:57,046 Scholars argue that without this kingdom, 13 00:00:57,212 --> 00:01:01,296 Tibetan Buddhism would have withered and died centuries ago. 14 00:01:01,629 --> 00:01:03,754 Yet this spiritual and commercial hub 15 00:01:03,962 --> 00:01:05,962 which prospered for seven centuries 16 00:01:06,129 --> 00:01:10,129 vanished almost without a trace in 1630. 17 00:01:19,296 --> 00:01:23,171 What happened to bring this great civilization to an end? 18 00:01:25,754 --> 00:01:30,171 Was it the arrival of the first ever westerners to visit Tibet? 19 00:01:32,379 --> 00:01:33,879 Or was it the intense rivalry 20 00:01:34,046 --> 00:01:37,129 between two brothers fighting for power? 21 00:01:38,212 --> 00:01:41,004 Why was it completely abandoned? 22 00:01:41,171 --> 00:01:45,754 And what silent secrets do these decapitated remains tell? 23 00:01:51,212 --> 00:01:52,796 To unravel this mystery, 24 00:01:53,004 --> 00:01:56,004 a Tibetan historian and an American archaeologist 25 00:01:56,171 --> 00:01:59,129 travel to the far reaches of Tibet. 26 00:02:00,129 --> 00:02:02,462 To these four hundred year old ruins 27 00:02:02,671 --> 00:02:06,129 where they will discover the answers to what happened 28 00:02:06,337 --> 00:02:10,087 to the extraordinary Kingdom of Guge. 29 00:02:23,337 --> 00:02:27,046 Today this is all that remains of Guge. 30 00:02:27,212 --> 00:02:30,629 Its capital city, Tsaparang. 31 00:02:32,129 --> 00:02:34,671 The grand vision of the first kings of Guge 32 00:02:34,879 --> 00:02:37,462 is reflected in this extraordinary city, 33 00:02:37,671 --> 00:02:41,212 literally carved into the side of a mountain. 34 00:02:41,421 --> 00:02:45,837 Soaring to the heavens the height of a modern 80-story skyscraper 35 00:02:46,546 --> 00:02:47,962 it is even today 36 00:02:48,129 --> 00:02:51,171 one of the largest structures in Tibet. 37 00:02:56,421 --> 00:02:58,546 Along its narrow lanes 38 00:02:58,754 --> 00:03:02,046 you can almost hear the echoes of the many people 39 00:03:02,212 --> 00:03:03,921 who toiled to gouge a city 40 00:03:04,087 --> 00:03:07,754 from this impenetrable mount of clay. 41 00:03:09,087 --> 00:03:11,004 A labyrinth of tunnels and stairs 42 00:03:11,171 --> 00:03:16,254 leads vertically 300 meters to the very top of the structure. 43 00:03:19,171 --> 00:03:21,837 The view is breathtaking 44 00:03:30,171 --> 00:03:35,337 But this is only a small part of the once mighty Kingdom of Guge. 45 00:03:36,254 --> 00:03:40,962 At its height it was twice the size of Great Britain. 46 00:03:43,129 --> 00:03:47,046 Experts believe that somewhere here lies the answer 47 00:03:47,254 --> 00:03:51,587 to one of the most intriguing archaeological enigmas in Asia. 48 00:03:55,837 --> 00:03:59,337 Who exactly built this extraordinary structure? 49 00:03:59,546 --> 00:04:01,046 And what could have possibly led 50 00:04:01,254 --> 00:04:04,129 to the downfall of this civilization? 51 00:04:08,546 --> 00:04:12,754 In its day, Guge was the Florence of The East. 52 00:04:15,421 --> 00:04:17,254 At a time when Genghis Khan's Mongols 53 00:04:17,462 --> 00:04:20,129 were advancing into Central Asia and Europe 54 00:04:20,337 --> 00:04:22,962 and the Crusades were being fought in Palestine, 55 00:04:23,129 --> 00:04:25,546 Guge was a flourishing centre of commerce, 56 00:04:25,754 --> 00:04:29,129 art, religion and political power. 57 00:04:34,171 --> 00:04:37,004 It dominated a strategic crossroads on the Silk Road 58 00:04:37,171 --> 00:04:39,546 between Central Asia and China, 59 00:04:39,754 --> 00:04:42,962 a crossroads for the numerous caravans trading gold, 60 00:04:43,129 --> 00:04:46,254 silk, wool and spices. 61 00:04:48,754 --> 00:04:52,754 Guge was the centre of sophisticated art and ideas 62 00:04:52,962 --> 00:04:56,171 a magnet for artisans and intellectuals. 63 00:04:56,379 --> 00:04:59,671 It was at the heart of a religious renaissance, 64 00:04:59,879 --> 00:05:04,171 and home to some of the greatest Buddhist thinkers of its time. 65 00:05:05,629 --> 00:05:08,254 Yet having prospered for 7 centuries, 66 00:05:08,462 --> 00:05:12,671 this magnificent Kingdom disappeared in 1630 67 00:05:12,879 --> 00:05:15,796 leaving only an enigmatic structure 68 00:05:16,004 --> 00:05:20,337 the very last remaining clue to a lost civilization. 69 00:05:21,587 --> 00:05:25,379 These are the first ever photographs of the Guge Kingdom. 70 00:05:25,587 --> 00:05:27,921 They were captured in 1933 71 00:05:28,087 --> 00:05:31,546 by Italian explorer Giuseppe Tucci. 72 00:05:33,087 --> 00:05:38,129 Tucci was the first Westerner to document these magnificent ruins. 73 00:05:41,671 --> 00:05:44,462 Tucci was awestruck by what lay before him. 74 00:05:44,671 --> 00:05:46,212 He wrote... 75 00:05:46,421 --> 00:05:48,587 "In front of us the whole hill side is 76 00:05:48,796 --> 00:05:51,462 covered with tremendous ruins; 77 00:05:51,671 --> 00:05:54,796 a dead city which seems to be keeping vigil 78 00:05:55,004 --> 00:05:58,296 over a tormented waste of stone." 79 00:06:05,254 --> 00:06:07,712 Tucci's visit to the ruins of Guge 80 00:06:07,921 --> 00:06:11,087 unearthed no clues to its demise. 81 00:06:12,546 --> 00:06:17,587 That task would be left to two modern-day experts on Tibet. 82 00:06:17,796 --> 00:06:21,712 American John Bellezza is an explorer and archaeologist 83 00:06:21,921 --> 00:06:27,504 who has studied this region's rich past for the last 20 years. 84 00:06:27,712 --> 00:06:32,046 Tibet is ringed by these incredibly high snow mountains, 85 00:06:32,212 --> 00:06:36,962 it's a limpid country of fantastic mountain ranges 86 00:06:37,129 --> 00:06:39,796 and broad rivers and pure lakes. 87 00:06:40,004 --> 00:06:42,462 Tibet is really an inspirational land. 88 00:06:42,671 --> 00:06:44,837 The colors in Tibet, 89 00:06:45,046 --> 00:06:46,254 the quality of light, 90 00:06:46,462 --> 00:06:48,004 the ways the shadows are cast 91 00:06:48,171 --> 00:06:51,504 are unmatched anywhere else our planet. 92 00:06:52,879 --> 00:06:53,754 Tibet is surrounded 93 00:06:53,962 --> 00:06:57,171 by the mighty mountain ranges of the Himalaya. 94 00:06:58,629 --> 00:07:01,087 To the South and West stands India. 95 00:07:01,296 --> 00:07:04,046 And to the North and East, China. 96 00:07:04,212 --> 00:07:09,212 The Kingdom of Guge occupied the arid Western arm of Tibet. 97 00:07:13,379 --> 00:07:18,171 Tsaparang is a 5-day drive west of the Tibetan capital of Lhasa. 98 00:07:20,087 --> 00:07:23,004 It is an arduous journey across unpaved roads 99 00:07:23,171 --> 00:07:24,962 in some of the least inhabited 100 00:07:25,129 --> 00:07:28,546 and harshest landscapes on the planet. 101 00:07:42,546 --> 00:07:44,587 The hardship and harshness of nature 102 00:07:44,796 --> 00:07:49,046 has forged a unique spirit in the people who live here. 103 00:07:49,254 --> 00:07:53,671 It's often said that Tibetans are inherently a spiritual people. 104 00:07:53,879 --> 00:07:56,546 I think part of it is the landscape. 105 00:07:56,754 --> 00:07:59,754 The Tibetan plateau just is so high, 106 00:07:59,962 --> 00:08:02,046 you are so close to the heavens. 107 00:08:02,212 --> 00:08:06,796 The closest most people would get to at this extreme altitude 108 00:08:07,004 --> 00:08:08,962 would be flying in an aeroplane. 109 00:08:09,129 --> 00:08:13,254 It is a harsh, demanding environment. 110 00:08:13,879 --> 00:08:16,004 This is where Tsering Gyalpo 111 00:08:16,171 --> 00:08:19,212 a leading international authority on Tibetan history 112 00:08:19,421 --> 00:08:22,171 was born and raised. 113 00:08:25,296 --> 00:08:26,962 This is his land 114 00:08:27,129 --> 00:08:29,796 and these are his people 115 00:08:34,796 --> 00:08:36,712 Tsering has brought John Bellezza here 116 00:08:36,921 --> 00:08:39,546 to learn about ancient tales and fables 117 00:08:39,837 --> 00:08:42,129 from his tribal elders 118 00:08:47,837 --> 00:08:51,171 The rule inside each tent is the same for everyone. 119 00:08:51,379 --> 00:08:55,087 The left side of the tent belongs to the women 120 00:08:55,296 --> 00:08:57,837 and the right side belongs to the men. 121 00:08:58,046 --> 00:09:00,921 The area at the back of the tent belongs to the older generation 122 00:09:01,087 --> 00:09:04,837 as a form of respect. 123 00:09:05,046 --> 00:09:08,629 Tsering has become a collector of stories from Guge's past 124 00:09:08,837 --> 00:09:11,046 with the help of these elders. 125 00:09:11,254 --> 00:09:15,712 Oral legends passed down from generation to generation 126 00:09:15,921 --> 00:09:19,879 provide one of the few sources historians like Tsering have 127 00:09:20,046 --> 00:09:24,171 to piece together the rise and fall of this lost kingdom. 128 00:09:24,587 --> 00:09:26,879 The tales are intriguing 129 00:09:27,379 --> 00:09:30,046 the constant struggle for water in an arid, 130 00:09:30,212 --> 00:09:32,087 inhospitable plateau, 131 00:09:32,296 --> 00:09:35,796 the encounter with strangers from the outside world 132 00:09:43,212 --> 00:09:44,212 Tsering and John 133 00:09:44,421 --> 00:09:49,254 embark on a quest to solve one of Tibet's greatest mysteries. 134 00:09:49,462 --> 00:09:52,337 How did the mighty kingdom of Guge flourish 135 00:09:52,546 --> 00:09:54,921 in the middle of a harsh desert? 136 00:09:55,087 --> 00:09:58,046 And what later caused its dramatic collapse 137 00:09:58,254 --> 00:10:00,712 in the 17th century? 138 00:10:03,462 --> 00:10:06,629 Of all the stories that shroud this lost city, 139 00:10:06,837 --> 00:10:09,921 there is one that is most often told. 140 00:10:10,087 --> 00:10:13,796 It is an extraordinary legend about a bitter power struggle 141 00:10:14,004 --> 00:10:14,962 between two brothers 142 00:10:15,129 --> 00:10:17,046 that eventually brought this magnificent 143 00:10:17,254 --> 00:10:21,462 700-year-old kingdom to a bloody end. 144 00:10:23,212 --> 00:10:25,671 One brother was the last King of Guge. 145 00:10:25,879 --> 00:10:28,004 His name was Chodakpo 146 00:10:28,171 --> 00:10:29,962 and he was considered both the religious 147 00:10:30,129 --> 00:10:32,879 and political ruler of the land. 148 00:10:33,046 --> 00:10:37,921 The other was the chief abbot of one of Tibet's greatest monasteries. 149 00:10:41,212 --> 00:10:45,046 What is said to have begun as an argument over authority, 150 00:10:45,212 --> 00:10:47,962 turned into a bitter ongoing dispute 151 00:10:48,129 --> 00:10:52,171 fuelled by jealousy and the thirst for power. 152 00:10:53,962 --> 00:10:56,004 This, it is speculated, 153 00:10:56,171 --> 00:11:01,212 is one plausible explanation for the eventual demise of Guge. 154 00:11:01,421 --> 00:11:02,254 There are a lot of stories out there 155 00:11:02,462 --> 00:11:05,212 about how the kingdom of Guge ended. 156 00:11:05,421 --> 00:11:09,671 We know that all through its history there were intrigues, 157 00:11:09,879 --> 00:11:12,587 there were times when royalty were assassinated, 158 00:11:12,796 --> 00:11:14,004 the kings lost their positions, 159 00:11:14,171 --> 00:11:17,421 usurped by a brother or half-brother 160 00:11:17,629 --> 00:11:20,837 so there were problems all along the way. 161 00:11:23,171 --> 00:11:26,754 King Chodakpo came from a long line of royalty 162 00:11:26,962 --> 00:11:28,004 who had ruled the Kingdom 163 00:11:28,171 --> 00:11:31,379 from the extraordinary acropolis at Tsaparang. 164 00:11:32,962 --> 00:11:36,421 This unusual structure was once a burgeoning metropolis, 165 00:11:36,629 --> 00:11:38,921 a city fortress. 166 00:11:41,796 --> 00:11:44,546 Today, it's an archaeological bonanza 167 00:11:44,754 --> 00:11:47,171 for explorers like Bellezza. 168 00:11:47,962 --> 00:11:51,712 Tsaparang is a wonderful place to... to wander about. 169 00:11:51,921 --> 00:11:53,087 It's like reliving your childhood 170 00:11:53,296 --> 00:11:55,254 exploring all the nooks and crannies, 171 00:11:55,462 --> 00:11:57,712 seeing things for the first time, 172 00:11:57,921 --> 00:11:58,962 I mean you never know 173 00:11:59,129 --> 00:12:01,046 what you're going to discover in the ruins. 174 00:12:01,212 --> 00:12:03,712 I mean It brings the civilization alive, 175 00:12:03,921 --> 00:12:06,587 and its people and its beliefs. 176 00:12:09,254 --> 00:12:11,004 The heart of Chodakpo's city 177 00:12:11,171 --> 00:12:13,462 was a sophisticated labyrinth of tunnels 178 00:12:13,671 --> 00:12:16,629 connecting the many caves called pugos. 179 00:12:17,629 --> 00:12:20,379 But not all caves were created equal. 180 00:12:21,046 --> 00:12:23,421 The base of the city complex is where the poor, 181 00:12:23,629 --> 00:12:27,129 foot soldiers, farmers and their families live. 182 00:12:27,337 --> 00:12:29,004 These laborers worked the fields, 183 00:12:29,171 --> 00:12:32,296 constructed public works and served the rich. 184 00:12:32,504 --> 00:12:36,712 They were the foundation of Chodakpo's kingdom. 185 00:12:36,921 --> 00:12:39,546 Out here in the extreme harsh climate, 186 00:12:39,754 --> 00:12:42,421 a cave made quite a comfortable home. 187 00:12:56,254 --> 00:12:58,254 The clay walls provided insulation 188 00:12:58,462 --> 00:13:00,504 from both the searing heat of summer 189 00:13:00,712 --> 00:13:03,379 and the freezing cold of winter. 190 00:13:28,421 --> 00:13:30,004 Climbing up the mountain 191 00:13:30,171 --> 00:13:33,171 also means climbing up the social ladder. 192 00:13:35,087 --> 00:13:38,171 Living in caves halfway up were merchants, 193 00:13:38,379 --> 00:13:40,879 the middle-class and monks. 194 00:13:41,129 --> 00:13:41,921 Further up, 195 00:13:42,087 --> 00:13:44,921 the mountain becomes more fortress-like, 196 00:13:45,087 --> 00:13:47,587 protecting those of higher status. 197 00:13:48,171 --> 00:13:51,296 And at the very top lived King Chodakpo, 198 00:13:51,504 --> 00:13:52,379 his family, 199 00:13:52,587 --> 00:13:55,421 the ministers and their retainers. 200 00:14:03,212 --> 00:14:07,087 The royal palace is located on the summit of the Tsaparang formation. 201 00:14:07,296 --> 00:14:09,087 And it's really like being in a penthouse. 202 00:14:09,296 --> 00:14:13,754 You have unobstructed views 360 degrees, 203 00:14:13,962 --> 00:14:15,796 you can see the rest of the kingdom, 204 00:14:16,004 --> 00:14:18,004 the rest of the people below you. 205 00:14:18,171 --> 00:14:21,004 It really gives you a sense of being in command 206 00:14:21,171 --> 00:14:24,212 and literally on top of the world. 207 00:14:26,004 --> 00:14:28,462 Being so high also made the palace 208 00:14:28,671 --> 00:14:31,212 a perfect strategic location. 209 00:14:31,421 --> 00:14:35,087 The sheer cliffs on three sides and the steep summit 210 00:14:35,296 --> 00:14:38,171 made the citadel virtually impregnable. 211 00:14:40,129 --> 00:14:43,004 From here the slopes are very steep. 212 00:14:43,171 --> 00:14:49,254 Any invaders would find it almost impossible to climb up. 213 00:14:52,921 --> 00:14:55,254 John Bellezza and Tsering Gyalpo 214 00:14:55,462 --> 00:14:57,462 believe that this is where the mystery 215 00:14:57,671 --> 00:15:00,087 slowly begins to unfold. 216 00:15:00,296 --> 00:15:04,129 What stories could these weathered walls tell? 217 00:15:06,046 --> 00:15:07,337 Perhaps an answer to a question 218 00:15:07,546 --> 00:15:10,504 that's stymied experts for decades. 219 00:15:10,712 --> 00:15:12,087 How did the royals of Guge 220 00:15:12,296 --> 00:15:15,129 make their way to the top of the acropolis? 221 00:15:16,254 --> 00:15:18,962 Certainly not the steep 30-minute hike up the narrow, 222 00:15:19,129 --> 00:15:22,254 craggy paths used by commoners? 223 00:15:25,046 --> 00:15:26,629 Tsering thinks he may have discovered 224 00:15:26,837 --> 00:15:28,879 a clue to this mystery. 225 00:15:29,129 --> 00:15:31,712 At the far end of the royal complex 226 00:15:31,921 --> 00:15:33,879 is a wide-open space 227 00:15:34,046 --> 00:15:38,379 which for years experts assumed was a reception hall for the king. 228 00:15:38,587 --> 00:15:41,671 But after analyzing the soil composition there, 229 00:15:41,879 --> 00:15:45,421 Tsering found traces of horsehair and manure. 230 00:15:45,629 --> 00:15:47,129 When you study the ground, 231 00:15:47,337 --> 00:15:50,004 you can discover horse manure in the soil. 232 00:15:50,171 --> 00:15:53,754 For example, this here is horse manure. 233 00:15:53,962 --> 00:15:59,046 Horse hair can actually be found mixed in together with the manure. 234 00:15:59,254 --> 00:16:04,129 Some people believe that this manure has sacred properties. 235 00:16:06,254 --> 00:16:09,796 But if indeed there was a stable high on this mountain, 236 00:16:10,004 --> 00:16:12,046 the question still remains, 237 00:16:12,212 --> 00:16:14,754 how could these horses have made their way 238 00:16:14,962 --> 00:16:18,587 300 meters to the top of the citadel? 239 00:16:20,337 --> 00:16:24,712 The answer may have revealed itself after heavy rains. 240 00:16:24,921 --> 00:16:28,087 Soil erosion uncovered the entrance to a dark tunnel, 241 00:16:28,296 --> 00:16:29,712 with a passageway 242 00:16:29,921 --> 00:16:33,629 that seemed to head down towards the valley below. 243 00:16:33,837 --> 00:16:37,296 The royalty depended on this passageway. 244 00:16:37,504 --> 00:16:47,046 It provided safe and secure access to transport supplies from below. 245 00:16:47,212 --> 00:16:50,921 This secret tunnel would eventually prove to be useful 246 00:16:51,087 --> 00:16:53,004 not just as transport 247 00:16:53,171 --> 00:16:56,296 but for the survival of the entire kingdom. 248 00:16:58,462 --> 00:17:01,379 But perhaps the greatest revelations on Guge 249 00:17:01,587 --> 00:17:03,254 were found here 250 00:17:04,212 --> 00:17:06,962 Within this nearly inaccessible structure 251 00:17:07,129 --> 00:17:10,004 are clues that hint at what life in Guge 252 00:17:10,171 --> 00:17:12,171 must have been like. 253 00:17:12,921 --> 00:17:15,546 This is the Red Temple. 254 00:17:16,087 --> 00:17:17,796 Behind these ancient doors, 255 00:17:18,004 --> 00:17:20,921 some of Buddhism's finest murals tell a story 256 00:17:21,087 --> 00:17:24,879 of one of the greatest civilizations in Asia 257 00:17:25,046 --> 00:17:26,254 one that in its heyday 258 00:17:26,462 --> 00:17:29,879 was unsurpassed across the Himalayas. 259 00:17:32,087 --> 00:17:35,046 These murals, document life in Guge 260 00:17:35,212 --> 00:17:39,671 and present a pictorial history of this once great kingdom. 261 00:17:40,962 --> 00:17:43,296 The murals of Guge are simply stunning. 262 00:17:43,504 --> 00:17:45,921 Not only are they great artwork, 263 00:17:46,087 --> 00:17:51,046 but they encapsulate the experience of the kingdom, 264 00:17:51,254 --> 00:17:54,046 its culture, its people, its society, 265 00:17:54,254 --> 00:17:55,712 the ways in which they did business, 266 00:17:55,921 --> 00:17:58,046 the ways in which they moved about and traded. 267 00:17:58,254 --> 00:18:01,962 These are all represented in the murals. 268 00:18:02,129 --> 00:18:03,712 This is not merely artwork; 269 00:18:03,921 --> 00:18:06,921 this is history in visual form. 270 00:18:07,837 --> 00:18:10,046 Over the centuries Tibet and its people 271 00:18:10,212 --> 00:18:13,129 have seen great upheavals. 272 00:18:14,337 --> 00:18:16,962 It began as a unified empire. 273 00:18:17,171 --> 00:18:18,712 Then around the year 850, 274 00:18:18,921 --> 00:18:20,337 the empire fell apart 275 00:18:20,546 --> 00:18:23,671 after a series of brutal civil wars. 276 00:18:26,046 --> 00:18:28,671 What emerged from the battles and the bloodshed 277 00:18:28,879 --> 00:18:32,462 was a separate kingdom - Guge. 278 00:18:36,837 --> 00:18:39,046 Guge flourished at the geographical crossroads 279 00:18:39,254 --> 00:18:42,754 to some of the greatest civilizations of the time. 280 00:18:48,879 --> 00:18:53,879 Tsaparang was the center of trade For the Guge kingdom 281 00:18:54,046 --> 00:18:58,004 In the autumn and spring, nomads would bring wool, 282 00:18:58,171 --> 00:19:01,712 skins and salt to trade in Tsaparang. 283 00:19:01,921 --> 00:19:03,046 And in the summer, 284 00:19:03,212 --> 00:19:04,921 people from the south side of the Himalaya 285 00:19:05,087 --> 00:19:07,004 would come down here to trade. 286 00:19:07,171 --> 00:19:08,837 Therefore the prosperity of the Guge 287 00:19:09,046 --> 00:19:12,837 Kingdom depended on all this trade. 288 00:19:13,046 --> 00:19:15,171 The king's wealth came from gold mines. 289 00:19:15,379 --> 00:19:18,171 And this was supplemented by alms given by pilgrims 290 00:19:18,379 --> 00:19:20,879 traveling through the Kingdom. 291 00:19:22,254 --> 00:19:24,004 None of these riches however 292 00:19:24,171 --> 00:19:27,129 could ensure what the Kingdom needed most: 293 00:19:27,337 --> 00:19:28,462 water. 294 00:19:31,046 --> 00:19:34,587 Tsaparang lay amidst a vast and arid desert. 295 00:19:35,212 --> 00:19:37,796 In order to guarantee Guge's survival, 296 00:19:38,004 --> 00:19:40,754 the King was forced to spend much of his resources 297 00:19:40,962 --> 00:19:42,962 transporting water to the city 298 00:19:43,129 --> 00:19:46,629 and to the farms that it depended on. 299 00:19:46,837 --> 00:19:49,046 The ancient irrigation canals, wells 300 00:19:49,254 --> 00:19:52,046 and even a 20 kilometer long aqueduct 301 00:19:52,212 --> 00:19:54,171 stretching from the Sutlej River 302 00:19:54,379 --> 00:19:58,337 to the citadel can still be seen amidst the ruins 303 00:19:58,921 --> 00:20:01,046 evidence of the massive undertakings 304 00:20:01,254 --> 00:20:03,962 to keep this oasis alive. 305 00:20:08,837 --> 00:20:11,087 With their power and livelihood secure, 306 00:20:11,296 --> 00:20:13,504 the royals proceeded to live a life 307 00:20:13,712 --> 00:20:16,462 full of absolute opulence. 308 00:20:18,379 --> 00:20:21,504 The whim of the noble elite in Guge 309 00:20:21,712 --> 00:20:26,046 to dress well goes beyond our bounds in the modern period. 310 00:20:26,254 --> 00:20:28,046 These were people who wore their clothes, 311 00:20:28,212 --> 00:20:32,462 their jewels with no sense of guilt or regret. 312 00:20:32,671 --> 00:20:34,171 They reveled in beauty, 313 00:20:34,379 --> 00:20:36,504 they reveled in opulence. 314 00:20:36,712 --> 00:20:39,546 Not only did they wear their beauty, 315 00:20:39,754 --> 00:20:42,879 they lived amidst it too in their houses, 316 00:20:43,046 --> 00:20:44,004 the way they decorated them 317 00:20:44,171 --> 00:20:47,337 with the greatest artworks of the times. 318 00:20:50,212 --> 00:20:51,421 In this banquet room, 319 00:20:51,629 --> 00:20:55,587 Chodakpo and his queen would have enjoyed many social occasions, 320 00:20:55,796 --> 00:20:59,046 entertained by song and dance. 321 00:21:07,129 --> 00:21:11,046 Guge's armory held the finest weaponry of the time. 322 00:21:11,212 --> 00:21:13,921 Its sword smiths used sophisticated techniques 323 00:21:14,087 --> 00:21:16,296 to craft superior steel alloys, 324 00:21:16,504 --> 00:21:20,046 making their swords much sought-after. 325 00:21:22,754 --> 00:21:24,296 But Guge's wealth and power 326 00:21:24,504 --> 00:21:28,254 also attracted the attention of envious neighbors 327 00:21:28,462 --> 00:21:31,046 who launched frequent attacks on the kingdom. 328 00:21:32,046 --> 00:21:34,921 Eventually one such neighbor would discover 329 00:21:35,087 --> 00:21:36,962 a weakness to capitalize on 330 00:21:37,129 --> 00:21:41,046 and Guge's fate would be sealed forever. 331 00:21:45,129 --> 00:21:47,379 Just 30 kilometers away down the valley 332 00:21:47,587 --> 00:21:49,921 from the palace at Tsaparang 333 00:21:50,129 --> 00:21:52,712 is the monastery of Tholing. 334 00:21:52,921 --> 00:21:55,046 Today, it is a modest structure, 335 00:21:55,254 --> 00:21:57,837 an eighth of its original size. 336 00:21:58,046 --> 00:21:59,296 But at its peak, 337 00:21:59,504 --> 00:22:02,046 Tholing housed more than 900 monks 338 00:22:02,212 --> 00:22:05,087 and was the largest of Guge's monasteries 339 00:22:05,296 --> 00:22:07,546 both in size and influence 340 00:22:07,754 --> 00:22:11,212 a power base akin to the Vatican. 341 00:22:11,421 --> 00:22:15,379 Pilgrims flocked to Tholing and with them came wealth, 342 00:22:15,587 --> 00:22:17,962 which they gave to the monastery. 343 00:22:18,129 --> 00:22:20,796 At the centre of this spiritual power base, 344 00:22:21,004 --> 00:22:22,046 was the Chief Abbot 345 00:22:22,254 --> 00:22:24,629 King Chodakpo's brother. 346 00:22:24,837 --> 00:22:27,671 Tholing had great power over the people of Tibet, 347 00:22:27,879 --> 00:22:29,837 Central Asia and the sub-continents. 348 00:22:30,046 --> 00:22:34,379 It was the greatest religious center par excellence of its time 349 00:22:34,587 --> 00:22:38,129 and that gave it the moral authority, 350 00:22:38,337 --> 00:22:42,671 intellectual power and political prestige 351 00:22:42,879 --> 00:22:46,712 that no other institutions of the time had. 352 00:22:50,879 --> 00:22:53,004 Even before the rise of Guge, 353 00:22:53,171 --> 00:22:56,004 Buddhism had long-established roots in Tibet. 354 00:22:56,171 --> 00:22:58,962 But civil war in Central Tibet would fragment 355 00:22:59,129 --> 00:23:02,087 and dilute Buddhism's role in society. 356 00:23:03,254 --> 00:23:04,962 From the wake of these upheavals, 357 00:23:05,129 --> 00:23:07,046 it was the early kings of Guge 358 00:23:07,212 --> 00:23:10,879 that championed Buddhism in Western Tibet. 359 00:23:13,171 --> 00:23:15,421 According to Tsering Gyalpo, 360 00:23:15,629 --> 00:23:17,379 the third King, Yeshe Od, 361 00:23:17,587 --> 00:23:19,379 convened a Buddhist council, 362 00:23:19,587 --> 00:23:23,004 the great prayer festival of 1076. 363 00:23:23,171 --> 00:23:28,254 He invited great Buddhist thinkers from Tibet and beyond to attend. 364 00:23:30,796 --> 00:23:33,129 His aim was to strengthen Tibetan Buddhism 365 00:23:33,337 --> 00:23:36,212 and to propagate its philosophies. 366 00:23:37,087 --> 00:23:41,046 Yeshe Od's initiative was to prove successful. 367 00:23:43,337 --> 00:23:46,546 Amazingly well preserved centuries old murals 368 00:23:46,754 --> 00:23:49,296 speak of this religious convention 369 00:23:49,546 --> 00:23:53,296 a spiritual gathering which planted the first seeds 370 00:23:53,504 --> 00:23:57,004 from which Tibetan Buddhism was reborn. 371 00:23:59,254 --> 00:24:00,504 From that point onward, 372 00:24:00,712 --> 00:24:02,671 Guge became the spiritual 373 00:24:02,879 --> 00:24:05,587 and cultural heart of Tibetan Buddhism. 374 00:24:08,087 --> 00:24:10,254 The King enticed some of the greatest Buddhist 375 00:24:10,462 --> 00:24:12,212 leaders of his time. 376 00:24:12,421 --> 00:24:15,504 Not unlike headhunting CEOs today, 377 00:24:15,712 --> 00:24:18,337 he offered them riches beyond their dreams 378 00:24:18,546 --> 00:24:22,587 if they would only move to his kingdom. 379 00:24:22,796 --> 00:24:26,421 Guge was at the centre of a religious renaissance 380 00:24:26,629 --> 00:24:30,962 one that was about to get even more intense. 381 00:24:34,712 --> 00:24:35,962 From the 11th century, 382 00:24:36,129 --> 00:24:37,837 Kashmir, part of Ladakh 383 00:24:38,046 --> 00:24:42,004 and much of northeast India were been converted to Islam. 384 00:24:42,171 --> 00:24:43,837 For the next 300 years, 385 00:24:44,046 --> 00:24:47,462 Islam spread throughout most of the Indian sub continent. 386 00:24:47,671 --> 00:24:48,962 As the Muslims advanced, 387 00:24:49,129 --> 00:24:53,087 they sacked Buddhist temples and persecuted the devout. 388 00:24:53,296 --> 00:24:57,962 Artists, scholars and monks fled in fear. 389 00:24:58,129 --> 00:25:00,254 And it was Guge that they fled to. 390 00:25:00,462 --> 00:25:03,462 Because here they found sanctuary. 391 00:25:03,879 --> 00:25:07,337 Buddhism flourished in Guge, for two reasons. 392 00:25:07,546 --> 00:25:11,504 One was the fulfillment of the dream of the Tibetan emperors, 393 00:25:11,712 --> 00:25:16,087 the other was the need of the intellectual community in India 394 00:25:16,296 --> 00:25:19,046 to find a safe and secure home. 395 00:25:19,254 --> 00:25:21,671 Guge was able to cater to both. 396 00:25:22,087 --> 00:25:24,671 And with these devotees came artisans 397 00:25:24,879 --> 00:25:27,712 leading to an explosion of creativity. 398 00:25:27,921 --> 00:25:30,796 Frescoes hidden across the ancient Guge ruins 399 00:25:31,004 --> 00:25:33,629 offer us a glimpse of these heady times 400 00:25:33,837 --> 00:25:37,212 not unlike Medici Florence during the Renaissance. 401 00:25:37,796 --> 00:25:40,296 Foreign artists from across the Buddhist world 402 00:25:40,504 --> 00:25:43,254 brought their own distinctive style of art 403 00:25:43,462 --> 00:25:45,462 and here influenced each other, 404 00:25:45,671 --> 00:25:48,254 copying and fusing styles 405 00:25:48,462 --> 00:25:52,879 ultimately creating an entirely new direction in art 406 00:25:53,046 --> 00:25:54,587 the Guge school. 407 00:25:54,796 --> 00:25:58,046 For me one of the stunning things about these murals 408 00:25:58,212 --> 00:26:00,837 is the sheer diversity 409 00:26:01,046 --> 00:26:04,171 they hold in terms of human culture; 410 00:26:04,379 --> 00:26:08,046 they depict people from all over the Buddhist world. 411 00:26:08,212 --> 00:26:12,046 All of the cultures within the orbit of Guge, 412 00:26:12,212 --> 00:26:14,962 are there on these murals, 413 00:26:16,712 --> 00:26:19,587 The dry mountain air and remoteness of this area 414 00:26:19,796 --> 00:26:25,212 have helped make these murals some of the best preserved in Asia. 415 00:26:25,421 --> 00:26:29,004 It is argued that the Guge Kingdom's commitment to Buddhism 416 00:26:29,171 --> 00:26:31,171 and the influx of refugee-followers, 417 00:26:31,379 --> 00:26:34,004 was such a powerful force, 418 00:26:34,171 --> 00:26:38,171 Tibetan Buddhism may never have survived without it. 419 00:26:39,254 --> 00:26:41,171 Today Buddhism is still 420 00:26:41,379 --> 00:26:45,004 an integral part of everyday life in Tibet. 421 00:26:45,462 --> 00:26:47,087 It is an ancestral gift 422 00:26:47,296 --> 00:26:50,754 that permeates all levels of society, 423 00:26:54,796 --> 00:26:58,587 Tibetans still flock to Guge even today. 424 00:26:58,796 --> 00:27:00,504 Not so much for the temples 425 00:27:00,712 --> 00:27:04,212 as for the wondrous peak towering over Tsaparang 426 00:27:04,421 --> 00:27:07,004 the sacred Mt. Kailash. 427 00:27:11,254 --> 00:27:13,629 These pilgrims are a reminder of the thousands 428 00:27:13,837 --> 00:27:15,879 who have come to Guge before them. 429 00:27:16,046 --> 00:27:19,254 They are living proof of a deeper reason 430 00:27:19,462 --> 00:27:22,629 for this most unique journey in life. 431 00:27:25,712 --> 00:27:28,379 We are from Shigatse, three days' drive away. 432 00:27:28,587 --> 00:27:30,379 So you've come from Shigatse, on a pilgrimage! 433 00:27:30,587 --> 00:27:35,254 Yes, this year I will spend two days circumambulating Mount Kailash. 434 00:27:35,462 --> 00:27:38,254 How long would it normally take you? 435 00:27:38,462 --> 00:27:41,254 Two days if I go quickly. 436 00:27:41,462 --> 00:27:44,879 How far will you get after one day? 437 00:27:45,046 --> 00:27:48,921 How far will we get? 438 00:27:49,087 --> 00:27:51,087 We will reach Seripug. 439 00:27:51,296 --> 00:27:55,629 Ahh, the village of Seripug. 440 00:28:05,212 --> 00:28:07,921 Pilgrims like the one Tsering has come across here, 441 00:28:08,087 --> 00:28:11,587 are on a trek around the perimeter of a sacred site 442 00:28:11,796 --> 00:28:14,837 in a ritual known as 'Kora'. 443 00:28:16,171 --> 00:28:18,754 Some pilgrims will even go to profound lengths 444 00:28:18,962 --> 00:28:22,129 to demonstrate their faith through prostration. 445 00:28:24,046 --> 00:28:25,587 A devotee may take years 446 00:28:25,796 --> 00:28:28,587 to travel hundreds of miles in this manner. 447 00:28:30,171 --> 00:28:33,546 The Tibetans had this deep abiding interest 448 00:28:33,754 --> 00:28:36,712 in understanding the nature of human existence: 449 00:28:36,921 --> 00:28:38,629 why are humans born, 450 00:28:38,837 --> 00:28:41,379 where they come from and where did they go. 451 00:28:41,587 --> 00:28:43,462 First through their native traditions 452 00:28:43,671 --> 00:28:48,462 and later on through the medium of Buddhism, 453 00:28:48,671 --> 00:28:52,962 Tibetans explored the nature of human existence, 454 00:28:53,129 --> 00:28:56,129 what it means to be a human being. 455 00:28:58,962 --> 00:29:00,921 At the height of Tholing's influence, 456 00:29:01,087 --> 00:29:06,296 it amassed considerable wealth from donations made by pilgrims. 457 00:29:07,254 --> 00:29:09,129 By King Chodakpo's reign, 458 00:29:09,337 --> 00:29:12,046 legend has it that Tholing's influence 459 00:29:12,254 --> 00:29:14,421 and wealth was so great 460 00:29:14,629 --> 00:29:19,046 it began to overshadow the practical needs of the Kingdom. 461 00:29:20,171 --> 00:29:22,421 Guge relied on a large pool of labor 462 00:29:22,629 --> 00:29:24,504 to work the irrigation schemes, 463 00:29:24,712 --> 00:29:27,754 grow the barley, and raise the herds. 464 00:29:28,546 --> 00:29:32,046 But as more and more men flocked to the monasteries 465 00:29:32,212 --> 00:29:35,962 King Chodakpo saw his human resources dwindle 466 00:29:36,129 --> 00:29:39,004 and the economy began to suffer. 467 00:29:42,212 --> 00:29:43,796 By 1630, 468 00:29:44,004 --> 00:29:45,962 relations between the King and his brother 469 00:29:46,129 --> 00:29:48,837 had reached an all time low. 470 00:29:49,046 --> 00:29:51,087 A bitter dispute broke out between them 471 00:29:51,296 --> 00:29:56,004 a power struggle between the monastery and the monarchy, 472 00:29:56,171 --> 00:29:59,171 between religion and state. 473 00:30:01,171 --> 00:30:03,004 In the midst of this tension 474 00:30:03,171 --> 00:30:05,754 all that was needed was a tiny spark 475 00:30:05,962 --> 00:30:10,296 to bring about the beginning of the end for Guge. 476 00:30:13,337 --> 00:30:14,421 For centuries, 477 00:30:14,629 --> 00:30:16,504 the abandoned ruins of Guge 478 00:30:16,712 --> 00:30:18,712 and the Kingdom that once flourished here 479 00:30:18,921 --> 00:30:22,921 remained a mystery and virtually unknown to the West. 480 00:30:23,087 --> 00:30:26,879 Its remote location in the arid highlands of Western Tibet 481 00:30:27,046 --> 00:30:30,004 kept it preserved almost intact. 482 00:30:34,504 --> 00:30:36,004 In 1957, 483 00:30:36,171 --> 00:30:39,254 China's People's Liberation Army visited Tsaparang, 484 00:30:39,462 --> 00:30:44,254 giving us the first ever motion pictures of the abandoned city. 485 00:30:47,629 --> 00:30:49,504 Amongst the heavily eroded ruins, 486 00:30:49,712 --> 00:30:52,046 they discovered intricate religious objects, 487 00:30:52,254 --> 00:30:58,212 icons and murals telltale signs of grandeur and opulence. 488 00:30:59,129 --> 00:31:02,712 But it was inside caves deep within the city 489 00:31:02,921 --> 00:31:06,171 that the soldiers found the most intriguing revelations: 490 00:31:06,379 --> 00:31:10,629 Amour, shields and hundreds of arrows. 491 00:31:12,046 --> 00:31:14,046 And in one particular cave 492 00:31:14,254 --> 00:31:19,046 the Cave of the Dead they found the most grisly of evidence: 493 00:31:19,212 --> 00:31:23,212 the remains of hundreds of headless corpses. 494 00:31:24,212 --> 00:31:26,712 Whose macabre remains are these? 495 00:31:27,129 --> 00:31:29,129 And how did they get here? 496 00:31:30,254 --> 00:31:33,046 Perhaps answers to these questions would shed some light 497 00:31:33,212 --> 00:31:36,504 on the mysterious disappearance of Guge. 498 00:31:37,587 --> 00:31:39,962 But we would have to wait another 20 years 499 00:31:40,129 --> 00:31:42,629 for that illumination. 500 00:31:42,837 --> 00:31:47,046 In 1985, a team from Xi'an Archaeological Institute 501 00:31:47,212 --> 00:31:49,879 stumbled upon an intriguing clue. 502 00:31:50,046 --> 00:31:54,546 An ancient paper mask probably used in a religious ceremony. 503 00:31:55,379 --> 00:31:57,379 It seemed quite ordinary at first, 504 00:31:57,587 --> 00:31:59,254 but when they turned it over, 505 00:31:59,462 --> 00:32:03,504 they found traces of an unrecognizable Western script. 506 00:32:04,629 --> 00:32:06,587 Months of research would reveal this 507 00:32:06,796 --> 00:32:09,671 to be a section of pages from a Bible 508 00:32:09,879 --> 00:32:12,296 written in an ancient from of Portuguese 509 00:32:12,504 --> 00:32:14,837 used by early Jesuits. 510 00:32:16,254 --> 00:32:19,046 But how could the pages of an old Catholic Bible 511 00:32:19,212 --> 00:32:21,796 come to be part of a Tibetan shaman's mask 512 00:32:22,004 --> 00:32:24,212 in the far reaches of Guge. 513 00:32:27,837 --> 00:32:29,296 In 1624, 514 00:32:29,504 --> 00:32:32,796 a Jesuit missionary Father Antonio Andrade 515 00:32:33,004 --> 00:32:36,379 wrote a book highly popular across Europe. 516 00:32:38,004 --> 00:32:42,337 In it he describes his visit to an amazing country called Tibet. 517 00:32:42,546 --> 00:32:46,462 Father Andrade and his companion trekked from their mission in Goa 518 00:32:46,671 --> 00:32:49,462 in search of a long forgotten Christian state 519 00:32:49,671 --> 00:32:51,421 called Shambhala. 520 00:32:52,129 --> 00:32:55,421 Instead, they discovered Guge. 521 00:33:01,921 --> 00:33:03,879 By this time, the story goes: 522 00:33:04,046 --> 00:33:06,254 tensions between Chodakpo and his brother 523 00:33:06,462 --> 00:33:08,129 were at an all time high. 524 00:33:08,504 --> 00:33:11,296 And they were about to get worse. 525 00:33:12,171 --> 00:33:15,254 The King warmly welcomes Andrade. 526 00:33:15,462 --> 00:33:18,254 In his book Andrade writes: 527 00:33:18,462 --> 00:33:19,671 "As holy men, 528 00:33:19,879 --> 00:33:23,004 the king treated us with great reverence and then explained, 529 00:33:23,171 --> 00:33:24,837 somewhat to my surprise, 530 00:33:25,046 --> 00:33:27,087 that he wished to understand our faith. 531 00:33:28,129 --> 00:33:31,879 This was as welcome as it was unexpected." 532 00:33:34,379 --> 00:33:36,671 Not only does Chodakpo proclaim the pair 533 00:33:36,879 --> 00:33:38,962 to be his personal guests, 534 00:33:39,129 --> 00:33:42,004 he invites them to stay and teach their beliefs, 535 00:33:42,171 --> 00:33:45,129 even ordering the building of a chapel. 536 00:33:46,462 --> 00:33:50,712 Such behaviours would have infuriated the Buddhists at Tholing. 537 00:33:50,921 --> 00:33:54,504 They saw the King's actions as a betrayal against Buddhism. 538 00:33:54,712 --> 00:33:58,462 It was a move that would not go unanswered. 539 00:33:58,671 --> 00:34:02,004 According to stories later recorded by Andrade, 540 00:34:02,254 --> 00:34:05,546 what happened next was an uprising against the King 541 00:34:05,754 --> 00:34:09,421 that would forever change the course of Guge's history... 542 00:34:10,171 --> 00:34:12,046 Seeking to protect his stronghold, 543 00:34:12,212 --> 00:34:14,587 the Head Abbott sends word to his supporters 544 00:34:14,796 --> 00:34:19,379 in the neighboring Kingdom of Ladakh 500 kilometers away. 545 00:34:21,629 --> 00:34:23,796 Seizing this long awaited opportunity, 546 00:34:24,004 --> 00:34:27,046 the Ladakhis marched across the border of Guge, 547 00:34:27,212 --> 00:34:28,796 overcoming each fortress 548 00:34:29,004 --> 00:34:30,921 and embattlement in their path 549 00:34:31,087 --> 00:34:34,087 until they reached the capital Tsaparang. 550 00:34:35,087 --> 00:34:36,087 By this time, 551 00:34:36,296 --> 00:34:40,046 Guge's economic and political resources were strained. 552 00:34:40,254 --> 00:34:42,171 No reinforcements would be coming. 553 00:34:42,379 --> 00:34:46,462 And Tsaparang would have to face the invaders on its own. 554 00:34:48,254 --> 00:34:52,129 But taking Tsaparang would not be easy. 555 00:34:52,879 --> 00:34:54,879 The capital's Western and Southern approaches 556 00:34:55,046 --> 00:34:59,129 are sheer vertical walls virtually attack-proof. 557 00:34:59,337 --> 00:35:00,754 At the summit, 558 00:35:00,962 --> 00:35:03,879 the royal palace was protected by a defensive wall 559 00:35:04,046 --> 00:35:06,171 running along its perimeter. 560 00:35:08,046 --> 00:35:10,629 The only possible approach for the Ladakhi forces 561 00:35:10,837 --> 00:35:14,421 was up a gently sloping hill on the north-east, 562 00:35:14,629 --> 00:35:18,671 but even this route was blocked by a substantial wall. 563 00:35:20,962 --> 00:35:23,837 When the Ladakhi army reached Tsaparang 564 00:35:24,046 --> 00:35:25,046 they were flush with victory. 565 00:35:25,254 --> 00:35:29,837 They had conquered all the satellite fortresses. 566 00:35:30,046 --> 00:35:33,254 They were now primed for the final battle. 567 00:35:58,462 --> 00:36:03,046 How this final battle began is a matter of some uncertainty, 568 00:36:03,212 --> 00:36:04,462 but scholars believe 569 00:36:04,671 --> 00:36:08,504 the entrance to the city was stormed by the Ladakhis. 570 00:36:45,296 --> 00:36:47,004 Breaking through the city gates, 571 00:36:47,171 --> 00:36:49,587 the Ladakhis overcame Guge's resistance 572 00:36:49,796 --> 00:36:53,254 and took control of the lower part of the citadel. 573 00:36:54,379 --> 00:36:57,712 But as they chased the retreating soldiers and citizens of Guge 574 00:36:57,921 --> 00:37:01,046 up the passageways and tunnels to its summit, 575 00:37:01,254 --> 00:37:04,587 the Ladakhis found themselves sitting ducks. 576 00:37:04,796 --> 00:37:06,962 As they snaked towards the summit, 577 00:37:07,129 --> 00:37:09,462 these passageways narrowed. 578 00:37:09,671 --> 00:37:12,796 The Ladakhis had to pass through them almost single file 579 00:37:13,004 --> 00:37:16,337 making them easy targets for Guge's forces. 580 00:37:16,546 --> 00:37:18,296 After taking heavy losses, 581 00:37:18,504 --> 00:37:22,379 the Ladakhis retreated to the lower ramparts to regroup. 582 00:37:22,587 --> 00:37:24,546 It became clear to the Ladakhis 583 00:37:24,754 --> 00:37:28,087 that a frontal assault on the citadel would be impossible. 584 00:37:28,296 --> 00:37:31,421 Instead, they chose to sit and wait. 585 00:37:31,629 --> 00:37:34,796 By surrounding the citadel the Ladakhis were confident 586 00:37:35,004 --> 00:37:38,421 they had blocked all avenues of escape and fresh supplies 587 00:37:38,629 --> 00:37:40,629 especially water. 588 00:37:40,837 --> 00:37:42,796 How long could Chodakpo and his people 589 00:37:43,004 --> 00:37:45,796 hold out In this dry environment? 590 00:37:46,004 --> 00:37:47,712 But unknown to the Ladakhis, 591 00:37:47,921 --> 00:37:51,421 Guge might have had a trick or two up its sleeve. 592 00:37:51,629 --> 00:37:54,296 Deep beneath the citadel lies a network of caves 593 00:37:54,504 --> 00:37:59,837 that John Bellezza and Tsering Gyalpo found to be most unusual. 594 00:38:00,046 --> 00:38:03,712 These were originally thought to be a royal winter retreat. 595 00:38:03,921 --> 00:38:05,546 To escape the bitter cold of winter, 596 00:38:05,754 --> 00:38:10,046 scholars believed the royal family would have come here to keep warm. 597 00:38:11,212 --> 00:38:13,421 But as John and Tsering explore further, 598 00:38:13,629 --> 00:38:16,837 they find evidence that suggests these caves 599 00:38:17,046 --> 00:38:19,587 may have had some other purpose. 600 00:38:19,796 --> 00:38:24,504 There is no sign of smoke in this cave. 601 00:38:24,712 --> 00:38:26,796 You're right. 602 00:38:27,004 --> 00:38:30,712 There is no evidence of soot in this cave. 603 00:38:30,921 --> 00:38:32,337 I think that this cave must have been used as 604 00:38:32,546 --> 00:38:35,171 a storeroom or warehouse of some sort. 605 00:38:35,379 --> 00:38:38,629 Every cave connected to this one is similar. 606 00:38:38,837 --> 00:38:42,046 I think these are obviously not dwellings, 607 00:38:42,254 --> 00:38:44,962 but rather, rooms for storage. 608 00:38:45,129 --> 00:38:47,462 If this was being used for lodging, 609 00:38:47,671 --> 00:38:49,171 there would be some kind of trace from the smoke of a fire. 610 00:38:49,379 --> 00:38:51,212 Also there would be a proper doorway, 611 00:38:51,421 --> 00:38:53,296 maybe a wooden one. 612 00:38:53,504 --> 00:38:57,837 The ceiling would also be much higher 613 00:38:59,421 --> 00:39:01,046 Tsering reckons these caves 614 00:39:01,254 --> 00:39:04,337 could have stored food and supplies to last a year. 615 00:39:05,462 --> 00:39:06,421 So in theory, 616 00:39:06,629 --> 00:39:09,462 Guge could have held out for a while. 617 00:39:12,129 --> 00:39:14,712 Apparently these secret passages 618 00:39:14,921 --> 00:39:20,046 also allowed the besieged people of Guge access to water. 619 00:39:22,004 --> 00:39:25,921 Some passages led to an exit near the Sutlej River. 620 00:39:27,046 --> 00:39:28,837 With food and water available, 621 00:39:29,046 --> 00:39:32,212 Tsaparang held out for close to a month 622 00:39:32,421 --> 00:39:36,421 before the Ladakhis stepped up the offensive. 623 00:39:38,712 --> 00:39:41,046 By now the invaders had taken over 624 00:39:41,212 --> 00:39:43,879 the unprotected lower sections of the citadel, 625 00:39:44,046 --> 00:39:47,337 and had gained had a crucial bargaining chip in the process 626 00:39:47,546 --> 00:39:50,462 thousands of Guge prisoners. 627 00:39:53,754 --> 00:39:57,712 Half way up the citadel stands a very peculiar stone partition, 628 00:39:57,921 --> 00:40:01,421 unlike anything else found in Tsaparang. 629 00:40:01,629 --> 00:40:03,462 The wall is very interesting. 630 00:40:03,671 --> 00:40:04,546 It's built of stone, 631 00:40:04,754 --> 00:40:06,587 while the other buildings were 632 00:40:06,796 --> 00:40:11,337 primarily built of earth or mud brick. 633 00:40:11,546 --> 00:40:15,212 It doesn't have any obvious habitational function; 634 00:40:15,421 --> 00:40:19,046 it doesn't have any obvious defensive function. 635 00:40:19,254 --> 00:40:21,254 So why was the wall there? 636 00:40:22,254 --> 00:40:25,629 If storming the citadel through the tunnels was impossible, 637 00:40:25,837 --> 00:40:29,671 then the only other option would be to build a siege tower 638 00:40:31,129 --> 00:40:33,629 and by the most ruthless of means 639 00:40:33,837 --> 00:40:36,837 on the backs of captured Guge prisoners. 640 00:40:38,129 --> 00:40:41,046 The royal precinct was virtually unassailable. 641 00:40:41,212 --> 00:40:45,004 The Ladakhi army reached a shelf beneath the sheer summit. 642 00:40:45,171 --> 00:40:49,212 They were stuck here for close to a month 643 00:40:49,421 --> 00:40:51,837 so they began to build a siege tower 644 00:40:52,046 --> 00:40:54,754 with pressed Guge labor. 645 00:40:54,962 --> 00:40:57,004 They had to bring stones from a black mountain 646 00:40:57,171 --> 00:40:59,962 from the far side of the Sutlej River. 647 00:41:02,212 --> 00:41:04,004 As the siege tower rose, 648 00:41:04,171 --> 00:41:07,379 it claimed the lives of many Guge slaves. 649 00:41:08,379 --> 00:41:12,379 Ancient stories tell of how the slaves were beaten so mercilessly 650 00:41:12,587 --> 00:41:15,712 that their organs showed through their flesh. 651 00:41:19,629 --> 00:41:22,046 But building a 100-meter structure of this kind 652 00:41:22,212 --> 00:41:26,004 would have been a near impossible engineering feat for its time. 653 00:41:26,171 --> 00:41:29,754 Instead, experts believe the Ladakhi siege tower 654 00:41:29,962 --> 00:41:33,837 was a psychological rather than physical gambit 655 00:41:37,212 --> 00:41:41,087 how long could King Chodakpo bear to watch the daily torture 656 00:41:41,296 --> 00:41:44,212 and suffering of his captured subjects? 657 00:41:45,796 --> 00:41:48,421 As legend has it, 658 00:41:48,629 --> 00:41:53,004 the last king, Chodakpo seeing the great suffering 659 00:41:53,171 --> 00:41:56,087 that his people were enduring building this wall without food 660 00:41:56,296 --> 00:42:02,296 and as they died as they succumbed to the pressures of construction. 661 00:42:02,504 --> 00:42:06,046 He saw the great sufferings that his people were undergoing. 662 00:42:07,171 --> 00:42:08,421 And he had great pity, 663 00:42:08,629 --> 00:42:13,504 the king of Guge and he decided, 664 00:42:13,712 --> 00:42:16,046 it must have been a difficult decision 665 00:42:16,254 --> 00:42:18,754 but he decided in the end to surrender. 666 00:42:21,046 --> 00:42:22,212 According to legend, 667 00:42:22,421 --> 00:42:24,712 in the final hour of Guge, 668 00:42:24,921 --> 00:42:26,546 King Chodakpo and his retinue 669 00:42:26,754 --> 00:42:29,962 made their poignant descent from summit to base, 670 00:42:30,129 --> 00:42:32,462 even bearing gifts of gold and silver 671 00:42:32,671 --> 00:42:34,587 to appease the invaders. 672 00:42:35,296 --> 00:42:38,046 But the reception they received from the Ladhakis 673 00:42:38,254 --> 00:42:41,087 is surrounded in controversy. 674 00:42:42,587 --> 00:42:44,004 In one fell swoop, 675 00:42:44,171 --> 00:42:47,712 the 700-year-old kingdom of Guge had been conquered. 676 00:42:47,921 --> 00:42:50,087 But what happened after the King surrendered 677 00:42:50,296 --> 00:42:52,754 is still shrouded in mystery. 678 00:42:56,129 --> 00:42:59,296 John Bellezza and Tsering Gyalpo have their own ideas 679 00:42:59,504 --> 00:43:04,046 ideas that take them to the infamous Cave of the Dead. 680 00:43:05,587 --> 00:43:07,171 Could the bodies that the Chinese Army 681 00:43:07,379 --> 00:43:09,087 saw more than 50 years ago 682 00:43:09,296 --> 00:43:12,421 be the corpses of the last royals of Guge? 683 00:43:12,629 --> 00:43:13,879 The only answer 684 00:43:14,046 --> 00:43:17,629 is the overwhelming stench of more recent decay. 685 00:43:17,837 --> 00:43:19,962 The cave, unfortunately, 686 00:43:20,129 --> 00:43:22,421 has once again become a burial site. 687 00:43:22,629 --> 00:43:23,587 And in recent years, 688 00:43:23,796 --> 00:43:28,171 remains of Tibetans have once again been deposited that. 689 00:43:28,379 --> 00:43:32,837 And this is actually complicating the archaeology of determining 690 00:43:33,046 --> 00:43:34,587 what was really there originally, 691 00:43:34,796 --> 00:43:36,504 or what's come after. 692 00:43:39,171 --> 00:43:42,171 In Tibet, the dead received a "sky burial... 693 00:43:42,379 --> 00:43:45,879 This means corpses are "carried away by birds." 694 00:43:46,046 --> 00:43:48,171 Skilled morticians cut up the dead body 695 00:43:48,379 --> 00:43:52,254 to encourage eagles and vultures to consume the flesh. 696 00:43:53,129 --> 00:43:56,129 Local tales suggest that at one time 697 00:43:56,337 --> 00:44:00,171 the cave may have held as many as 400 skeletons. 698 00:44:00,546 --> 00:44:02,337 But over time, bandits, 699 00:44:02,546 --> 00:44:05,004 scholars and the curious have taken much, 700 00:44:05,171 --> 00:44:07,879 leaving but a few remains. 701 00:44:09,546 --> 00:44:13,712 Tibetan rituals of the dead forbid any possible DNA studies. 702 00:44:13,921 --> 00:44:16,712 But John Bellezza believes this could very well be 703 00:44:16,921 --> 00:44:20,254 the resting place of the last King of Guge. 704 00:44:21,462 --> 00:44:23,129 There is some evidence that lends credence 705 00:44:23,337 --> 00:44:25,212 to the idea that indeed 706 00:44:25,421 --> 00:44:28,504 the corpses in the cave were those of the royal family of Guge. 707 00:44:28,712 --> 00:44:32,004 Most of them seem to have been beheaded, 708 00:44:32,171 --> 00:44:34,046 to have undergone execution 709 00:44:34,212 --> 00:44:36,337 so that probably would not have been the case 710 00:44:36,546 --> 00:44:37,587 for the common soldier 711 00:44:37,796 --> 00:44:41,296 who would have fallen on the battleground. 712 00:44:44,504 --> 00:44:46,504 John's theory supports one legend 713 00:44:46,712 --> 00:44:50,254 that tells of a brutal and merciless execution. 714 00:44:50,921 --> 00:44:53,004 After having surrendered his Kingdom, 715 00:44:53,171 --> 00:44:56,504 the King and his ministers were beheaded on the spot. 716 00:44:57,462 --> 00:45:01,254 The royal women also met an equally gruesome end. 717 00:45:05,296 --> 00:45:08,087 There is a poem that purportedly tells of the Massacre. 718 00:45:08,296 --> 00:45:11,087 It describes how the royal women were taken 719 00:45:11,296 --> 00:45:14,171 and thrown from the palace ramparts. 720 00:45:15,712 --> 00:45:18,796 To the people below these brightly dressed princesses 721 00:45:19,004 --> 00:45:22,212 "looked like spring flowers falling from heaven" 722 00:45:23,254 --> 00:45:24,587 The Ladakhi soldiers 723 00:45:24,796 --> 00:45:28,921 yelled and shouted to see more and more flowers! 724 00:45:38,879 --> 00:45:40,046 As for the Abbott, 725 00:45:40,254 --> 00:45:43,629 he met his doom at the end of a Ladakhi sword. 726 00:45:43,879 --> 00:45:46,379 Treachery was repaid by treachery 727 00:45:46,587 --> 00:45:50,046 as he was double-crossed by his supposed allies. 728 00:45:52,004 --> 00:45:54,337 But a mystery still remains. 729 00:45:54,546 --> 00:45:58,087 Why was Tsaparang entirely abandoned? 730 00:45:59,421 --> 00:46:01,254 According to local legend, 731 00:46:01,462 --> 00:46:04,212 an aqueduct was built by the last king of Guge 732 00:46:04,421 --> 00:46:08,504 to bring water from the sacred snow mountain, 80 kilometers away. 733 00:46:08,712 --> 00:46:11,296 The aqueduct crossed through sacred territory 734 00:46:11,504 --> 00:46:14,046 so the local deities became angry with the king. 735 00:46:14,254 --> 00:46:15,837 They cursed him, 736 00:46:16,046 --> 00:46:20,254 and it is said that this was the reason for his defeat. 737 00:46:22,337 --> 00:46:23,754 From the top of the citadel 738 00:46:23,962 --> 00:46:27,504 you can still see the imprint left by the ancient aqueduct 739 00:46:27,712 --> 00:46:30,087 following the contours of the hill. 740 00:46:30,796 --> 00:46:33,087 Even the legend Tsering Gyalpo speaks of 741 00:46:33,296 --> 00:46:35,296 has a basis in science. 742 00:46:36,046 --> 00:46:40,379 Guge is in the shadow of three of the world's largest mountain ranges, 743 00:46:40,587 --> 00:46:42,087 the Himalayas, 744 00:46:42,296 --> 00:46:45,546 the Karakoram and the Kunlun. 745 00:46:48,212 --> 00:46:51,046 Research shows that the climate in West Tibet 746 00:46:51,212 --> 00:46:54,671 has been steadily changing over the past millennia. 747 00:46:55,212 --> 00:46:57,212 And that Man has been on the losing end 748 00:46:57,421 --> 00:47:00,671 of an age-old battle with Nature. 749 00:47:02,879 --> 00:47:04,837 Areas that were once moist 750 00:47:05,046 --> 00:47:07,129 and relatively lush are now dry 751 00:47:07,337 --> 00:47:08,837 and have become deserts. 752 00:47:09,046 --> 00:47:12,712 And in Guge this process is all the more intensified 753 00:47:12,921 --> 00:47:15,004 because it's located in a rain shadow 754 00:47:15,171 --> 00:47:18,796 of Asia's greatest mountain ranges. 755 00:47:19,004 --> 00:47:23,129 Evidence of this ongoing force known as desertification 756 00:47:23,337 --> 00:47:28,921 comes from satellite photographs of once arable fields now abandoned. 757 00:47:30,087 --> 00:47:33,046 But not all of them moved away. 758 00:47:33,212 --> 00:47:35,087 In the middle of the desert-like conditions 759 00:47:35,296 --> 00:47:37,671 that surround modern Tsaparang, 760 00:47:38,046 --> 00:47:42,546 there are still a few places with enough moisture to grow barley. 761 00:47:42,754 --> 00:47:45,587 The fall of the Guge kingdom might not have been triggered 762 00:47:45,796 --> 00:47:49,004 by just one major military campaign, 763 00:47:49,171 --> 00:47:50,796 but rather from a long term 764 00:47:51,004 --> 00:47:54,296 sustained assault from Mother Nature herself. 765 00:47:56,046 --> 00:47:56,921 Even today, 766 00:47:57,087 --> 00:48:00,046 400 years after the fall of the citadel, 767 00:48:00,212 --> 00:48:03,462 nature is still battling with the remaining few farmers 768 00:48:03,671 --> 00:48:07,212 struggling to eke out an existence from the land. 769 00:48:07,629 --> 00:48:09,046 The farmers explain to John 770 00:48:09,212 --> 00:48:11,879 that they have been trying to grow barley in these fields. 771 00:48:12,046 --> 00:48:13,504 During the time of the Guge Kingdom, 772 00:48:13,712 --> 00:48:16,921 the water level was much higher than it is now. 773 00:48:17,087 --> 00:48:20,004 The lack of water has now driven them to the lower areas 774 00:48:20,171 --> 00:48:22,879 right next to the river. 775 00:48:23,046 --> 00:48:25,046 The demise of the Guge Kingdom 776 00:48:25,212 --> 00:48:27,879 was the end of a line of Tibetan monarchs 777 00:48:28,046 --> 00:48:33,629 that stretched from 1630 back to 200 years AD. 778 00:48:34,004 --> 00:48:37,046 But the legacy of Guge lives on in festivities 779 00:48:37,254 --> 00:48:39,462 like this annual horse fair 780 00:48:42,087 --> 00:48:44,046 As they would have centuries ago, 781 00:48:44,254 --> 00:48:47,462 Buddhist monks are on hand to bless the jockeys, 782 00:48:47,671 --> 00:48:50,837 wishing them a successful and safe endeavor. 783 00:48:53,337 --> 00:48:57,462 Participants dip their fingers into beer and flick it heavenward 784 00:48:57,671 --> 00:48:59,046 a sign of gratitude, 785 00:48:59,212 --> 00:49:02,046 and an offering to the divine. 786 00:49:08,462 --> 00:49:10,046 But it is when the races begin, 787 00:49:10,254 --> 00:49:14,212 that we are reminded of the lineage of these hardy men. 788 00:49:17,087 --> 00:49:21,629 Cavalry skills passed down for generations from father to son. 789 00:49:21,837 --> 00:49:26,296 Each the proud bearer of the heritage of his warrior-ancestors. 790 00:49:38,296 --> 00:49:39,921 At a sacred prayer site 791 00:49:40,087 --> 00:49:43,046 Tsering Gyalpo, a native of these parts, 792 00:49:43,212 --> 00:49:47,212 makes his offering to these ancestors and the divine: 793 00:49:47,504 --> 00:49:49,629 This is my prayer 794 00:49:49,837 --> 00:49:51,337 I will make offerings again and again 795 00:49:51,546 --> 00:49:54,962 and give thanks for the blessing and protection provided me. 796 00:49:55,129 --> 00:49:59,046 My spirit offers eternal devotion. 797 00:50:01,296 --> 00:50:03,962 After the fall of the last King of Guge, 798 00:50:04,129 --> 00:50:08,421 Tsaparang became an unpleasant place for its citizens. 799 00:50:09,129 --> 00:50:12,004 The Ladakhis administered the region for 50 years 800 00:50:12,171 --> 00:50:14,629 before being driven out by the Tibetans 801 00:50:14,837 --> 00:50:16,837 and their Mongol allies. 802 00:50:17,587 --> 00:50:21,754 The Mongols did not take well to the deep canyons 803 00:50:21,962 --> 00:50:24,671 and dry lands of Western Tibet. 804 00:50:24,879 --> 00:50:27,046 And they decided to relocate the capital 805 00:50:27,212 --> 00:50:29,921 to higher more open grounds. 806 00:50:30,087 --> 00:50:34,129 With that relocation of the capital of Western Tibet, 807 00:50:34,337 --> 00:50:38,087 Guge utterly falls into ruins and decay, 808 00:50:38,296 --> 00:50:41,171 which has continued till the very present day. 809 00:50:42,046 --> 00:50:45,379 After the defeat and demise of Guge's last king, 810 00:50:45,587 --> 00:50:48,004 the reins of power were eventually taken over 811 00:50:48,171 --> 00:50:51,046 by the spiritual leader of another Buddhist sect 812 00:50:51,254 --> 00:50:53,212 the 5th Dalai Lama. 813 00:50:54,046 --> 00:50:56,254 Ironically, the king's brother 814 00:50:56,462 --> 00:50:59,046 the Abbot who fought for a Buddhist state 815 00:50:59,212 --> 00:51:02,421 had won the final battle after all. 816 00:51:05,254 --> 00:51:10,421 The ancient kings of Guge had a vision of a land of dharma, 817 00:51:10,629 --> 00:51:12,337 of sacred holiness, 818 00:51:12,546 --> 00:51:14,754 which has left an indelible mark 819 00:51:14,962 --> 00:51:19,046 not only on Tsaparang but on all of Tibet. 820 00:51:22,671 --> 00:51:26,087 Their gift of Buddhism remains strong and deeply ingrained 821 00:51:26,296 --> 00:51:30,087 in the memory of what was once a great kingdom 822 00:51:30,296 --> 00:51:33,462 the Kingdom of Guge. 65781

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