Original subtitles

hey everyone welcome back to know if a

lab for those of you who knew my name is

Jay

if you enter laser engraving you may

have heard of light burn it's not just

hype it's one of the best program I've

ever used I'm not sponsored by them and

it's just my opinion the Creator have a

few YouTube videos explaining most of

the features I highly recommend watching

them if you want more technical

knowledge the point of this video is to

run you through some of the features

with some project examples to get you

started so let's not waste any time

connecting to your laser

when you first open light burn you will

need to choose which device you have if

you skip that in the beginning you can

click the vices and choose find my laser

or create annually and follow the

prompts if you're successful you will

see found followed by the device name in

the bottom center or ready and the laser

panel to the right

connecting to light learn with Ethernet

if you happen to have a relative

controller you can connect your light

burn via ethernet personally my computer

is another room and I have Ethernet

access in my shop I'm connecting

directly to my home router the Rueda

controller comes with a default IP but

it may not be compatible with your

router you will need to find out what IP

is available to you I have extended the

internet in my router so might be is

10.0.0.0 be different based on your

internet service provider you will need

to find your device tab and see which

addresses are in use and choose one that

is not it took me a few tries to get it

working so keep that in mind

night burns interface I will not go over

all the buttons on the interface if you

hover your mouse pointer over the icons

it tells you their functions and the

right-hand side is where most of your

information will be like the cut list

and your lasers control these are

detachable if you like a cleaner

interface you can pin them back by

dragging it to the two sides if you

accidentally delete a panel you can

bring it back by clicking window and

selecting it

if the scrolling directions fills after

you click the Settings icon and check or

uncheck and the vermis for all

directions importing a project you can

click the import button and it will show

you all files that I burn supports drag

and drop is also supported and braving

this was a project that I took to my

first craft show it's a set of coasters

red is for cutting and black for

engraving and with a cut window you will

see you cut list

Phil is raster engraving film and line

adds an outline around your aster and

brave double-clicking will bring up your

cut settings it's fairly straightforward

we can change your power your speed and

if you're just doing a plain engraving

the default settings are good enough one

of the most interesting features is

crosshatch you will need to enable it

and increase your line interval for it

to make a difference

mine was set to 1 millimeters and my

scan angle to 45 degrees it makes a

really interesting film and saves a ton

of time on engraving i actually saw an

article in this a few months ago and was

working on a way to do this in Inkscape

the final result is fantastic minimum

and maximum power if your laser have a

control panel it will most likely have a

minimum and a maximum power setting mine

is set at 10 percent minimum

fifty percent max light burn also have a

minimum and maximum setting and my

testing whatever you set your power to a

light burn will override your settings

on your controller so if your max power

on the controller is set to 50% and your

max power and light burn is set to 50%

the final output will not be 25% I

personally thought that the controller

would set an absolute max power and the

software will not go over that and

that's not the case so even if your max

power is at a 50% of your controller and

you set alight burn 200 percent you will

overdrive YouTube it's easy to see this

with a Mellie app meter and again

YouTube's life will suffer personally I

stay under 20 milliamp at all times

and that's about 60% max power and light

burn the minimum power and light burn is

really important tip is closer for

example at 10% minimum we get over burns

at the edges of the engraving now that I

turned the minimum power down the end

result is much better as the laser head

moves closer to the edges we all slow

down and the light burn compensate so

you get a cleaner result you will need

to play with your settings as most

lasers will not fire below a certain

percentage layers grouping and

ungrouping light burn works and layers

and those layers are set with colors in

the bottom let's look at an example this

is a project that I'm working on for a

future Art Show the theme is Florida

Wildlife and I'm making a laser cut

depth map of Lake Okeechobee each of

these shapes represent a different depth

starting with the deepest end words with

layers I can set a color to each shape

and have it all in one file without

having to create separate defaults for

those of you who've used Glaser web for

well know how difficult this would have

been I did not create this file myself

came from the South Florida Water

Management District and PD

not light burnt supports PDF but the

file needs some fine-tuning

we need to ungroup the shapes in order

to assign them to a layer first click

the file and under arrange click on

group or keyboard shortcut command view

format can control you from VC depend on

your file you may need to ungroup a few

times I am deleting the parts that I

don't need now starting with the

innermost shape I will assign a color to

it and it will be its own layer in the

catalyst as I said earlier the file

needs turning some of the shapes are not

one so we need to group them of the

shift key while clicking to select

multiple items and under arrange select

group or use the keyboard shortcut it's

a good idea to keep your colors in order

so if your first layer is blue the next

should be read in the next green it will

keep things in order

but if for whatever reason the order is

wrong you can use these arrows to move

your layers up and down this is the

final file with tons of layers another

useful feature is the two side arrows

one copies your cut settings to the

cache and the other paste those settings

and to the layers you choose so you

won't have to do each one individually

for example if my first cut setting are

a 60% power 30 millimeters a second

speed I can paste that without having to

type it manually and the 19 layers

origin selective cuttings and may your

alignment I won't go too in depth on

origin but it's where your item will be

cut on the laser pen you will need to

play around with it then the framing

function it's easy to see where your

work will end up I prefer to select user

origin

and one of the corners my laser have a

panel and I like to move the laser head

manually and set my origin that way my

plan for cutting the depth map is to cut

each layer separately and stacking them

to create the effect we can choose which

layer is being cut by checking or

unchecking the output button there's

also a show box unchecking it will hide

that layer from view now I'm keeping the

outline layer check at all times and

only checking the output of each layer

one at a time starting with the first

later only they checked out what layer

will be cut another useful feature is to

right-click on the layers on the cut

list to show you that layer on screen

it's easy to check the cutting order and

if a mistake was made

these show blocks can also be used as a

guideline for aligning your design this

is a cutting board that I have prepared

in xscape the design and the outline is

created I can ungroup and make the

outline its own layer and uncheck the

output when I send the data to the laser

I don't have to worry about the

alignment of the design I can align the

laser head to the edge of the cutting

board and the design will be just like

what we have on screen and Verde and

engraving this one is a bit frustrating

my father-in-law's the headmaster at a

local school and asked me to engrave

this logo on a cup as it is now had

brought me engraved like this it's not

easy to see on my test cup but I think

it looks better inverted like this I am

coming from Cape Verde whisper and there

was a button to invert the file my

burner has no such button to invert the

file you have to add a red outline to it

so in this case I had to one group and

make the outline red for complex objects

it adds a unnecessary level of

complications to a simple past

I hope it gets its own button because I

think it's a really important task and

something but I use often there's more

to learn but that's all for this video

hopefully it was enough to get you

started thank you for your time

subscribe if you new and your feedback

is always welcome

until next time a today's

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