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[Mark] I'm a vlogger
[joyful music]
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who travels the world in
pursuit of delicious food
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00:00:09,359 --> 00:00:12,160
and I've always been
fascinated by Singapore.
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00:00:12,240 --> 00:00:15,359
Here, the obsession
with food is real.
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I'm exploring
the extremes
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of this food paradise
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that marries cultures and
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cuisines like no other.
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From searching
for soulful street food
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to exploring the heights
of fine dining.
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It's a love affair
with food
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and I'm ready to eat.
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[music fades]
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[upbeat music]
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Peranakan food is one of
my favorcuisineieties of
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that you won't find
outside of this region.
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Most Peranakans
in Singapore
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are the descendants
of early Chinese traders
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who married local women
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of Malay
or Indonesian ancestry.
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Their food is something else.
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It's a unique mix of Chinese
and Malay flavors.
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I can't wait to show you more.
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[music stops]
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[Mark]
I'm here with Violet Oon
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a Singaporean Peranakan.
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She's a renowned chef
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writer, restaurateur
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but to many
[peaceful music]
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she's Singapore's Queen
of Peranakan cuisine
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and my perfect guide
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into this little
known culinary world.
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I'm in for
a special treat today.
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Violet's invited me
over to her home
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to teach me more about
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the foundations
of Peranakan cooking
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and she's personally
prepared some of
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her favorite dishes
for me to try.
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To somebody
who has never had it before
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how would you describe
Peranakan food?
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The perfect marriage
of the East and the East.
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And it started from
the heartland of Malacca
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and then Penang and Singapore.
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Peranakan food
was very home-based.
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When I was a child, there was
only one famous restaurant.
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I came from a household
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where my mother
didn't cook at first.
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And my aunts cooked.
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You know, I love the food.
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And my poor aunts...
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I asked them
to teach me to cook
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because I was thinking, "What
they're not here anymore?
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Where am I
going to eat this food?"
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That's why I learned to cook.
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Survival...
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for my taste buds.
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I would like you
to taste three dishes.
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One is with a Chinese base
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and one is with a Malay base
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and one is a
dessert, a kueh.
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[Mark] Great.
[music stops]
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Well, the first dish
[joyful music]
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is Chinese influenced.
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It's called ayam tempra.
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Ayam is the Malay word
for chicken.
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Then you have chili,
sliced onions
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and then you have limes.
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And what makes it Chinese
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is dark soy sauce.
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So you're going to taste
sweet, sour, salty
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and this is
like, my favorite dish.
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So I'll give you a wing
and then I'll give you
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another piece
[Mark laughing]
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- and try the gravy.
- [Mark] Oh yeah.
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The gravy looks so rich.
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Oh man, that is perfect.
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[Mark biting and chewing]
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Oh.
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Oh, incredible.t is
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[Mark] You do taste sweet
and sour and yet it's not...
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It's a different type of
sweet and sour
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because it's more of
that acidic citrusy sourness.
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- Because of the lime, yeah.
- Yeah, that citrusy sourness.
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Plus, the sweetness is
not overpowering.
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It's just like
a perfect harmony.
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- I'm so happy you like it.
- [Mark] I love it.
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It tastes so homely.
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It's such a perfect harmony
of flavors.
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Yeah, that is delicious.
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You're gonna wanna just keep
licking your fingers and...
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licking that bone
until it's clean.
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Yes.
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[Mark biting and chewing]
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- I love it.
- That's nice.
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In our Peranakan cooking,
we have a Mdish influenced
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and this one
is very special to us.
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It's called
sambal belimbing.
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Now, it's actually made up
of a spice mix
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which is shallot, chili
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belacan,
which is shrimp paste
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and candlenut.
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Flavored by kaffir lime leaf
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which has a lovely aroma,
[Mark sniffing]
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And Mark, this is lemongrass.
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In our culture, we'd smash it
[pestle and mortar pounding]
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and that releases the aroma.
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You can smell it.
[Mark sniffing]
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The star turn is this fruit
called belimbing
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which is a sour fruit and...
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Mark, would you like to
lift up that branch?
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So this is a belimbing
plant. [Mark laughing]
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It's a bit like a star fruit
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but it has much
more character to it.
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You know, we don't have
this fruit very often.
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Have a bite.
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[Mark biting]
[Violet] It's cringe sour.
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So crisp and so juicy.
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It's such a wonderful...
just sharp sourness.
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It's the type of sourness
that just...
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- will wake you up.
- Makes you cringe.
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Yeah,
cringe your eyes a little bit
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but it's so good
at the same time.
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I love it.
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Are you ready
to have a taste, Mark?
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[Mark] Yes, I can't wait.
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So, it's got prawn and
belimbing.
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This is a very
traditional version.
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[Mark chewing]
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[Violet] So, do you like it?
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The belimbing is sour
and acidic
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to kind richnessast the
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- of that thick coconut cream.
- Yeah.
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But together,
it's a perfect balance.
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Well, in our culture
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there's something
called kueh
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which is a Malay word for
and in Chinese as well.
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So this is kueh kochi
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and it's got coconut
with palm sugar
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called gula melaka.
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They are formed into balls
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and then rolled
in glutinous rice skin.
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So these are already rolled.
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And are yoyours?y to make
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Let's see here.
Let me get a pivot point here.
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Insert it into the banana leaf
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and then you drop
a pandan leaf in.
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OK.
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Thank you.
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Tuck it in
and then we wrap it up
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and then you get
a beautiful cone at the end.
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Oh yeah, ishort little bit
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but I think we're gonna have
to make it work.
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- You've done it!
- And then we set it down.
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And you're going to steam this
for 15 minutes.
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Perfect...
[Mark laughing]
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Chomp into oit. please open
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Thank you.
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I'm going to
unwrap the package.
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Have a taste
and see how it is like.
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[Mark] I love how it takes
on the shape of that...
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- [Violet] The cone, right?
- [Mark] Yeah, exactly.
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And so, that ball of
gula melaka
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and the coconut are
all within...
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- Inside.
- Inside.
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Delicious.
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That gula melaka,
that palm sugar, has this...
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It's not a sharp sweetness,
it's msweetness.ellow
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- That caramel-ey kind of
- And that contrasts
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with this glutinous rice.
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Oh, it's wonderful.
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So do you like
our Peranakan food?
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- I love it.
- Thank you...
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So earlier on,
you mentioned that you're...
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I mean,
you really started cooking
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to preserve the tradition
and the recipes
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of Peranakan cuisine.
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Now that we're going forward
are you optimistic?
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Oh, I'm very optimistic.
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Now there's a proliferation
of Peranakan restaurants
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which gives me real hope
that it will go on.
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It's such an attractive food
and people have discovered it.
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I hope to be
a point of reference
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where the younger chefs
who are so creative
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can just use it
and play with the food.
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[music stops]
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[upbeat music]
[pestle and mortar pounding]
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[Mark] Chef Malcolm Lee was
the first Peranakan chef
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to earn a Michelin star
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with his breakout
restaurant, Candlenut.
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Chef Malcolm's
culinary journey began
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helping his mom and grandma
in the kitchen growing up.
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And the food at Candlenut
serves as a reflection
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of these delicious
childhood memories.
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I'm here to see
how this local chef
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has elevated
these familiar flavors
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thrusting
Peranakan cuisine
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into the fine dining
spotlight.
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So Mark,kitchen. to our
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You know,
the best way to introduce you
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to Peranakan cuisine
is to cook it.
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The dish that
we are going to do today
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is the buah keluak
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also known as the black nut
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which is the dish
that we are very famous for.
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Actually, it's a seed
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but do not eat
the fruit or the seed raw
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that means, unprocessed
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because it's poisonous.
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This hprocessed. been
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It has been boiled and
buried with ash and banana
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leaves for 40 days.
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All right, so this has been
kind of toxins.d of its
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Already, it's fermented.
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We have to soak these nuts
changing the water every day.
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This is what we get
after three to five days.
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All right, this may look
like nothing
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but it's going to taste
fabulous.
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Awesome.
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00:08:00,879 --> 00:08:01,639
Most people usually do it
[peaceful music]
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00:08:01,720 --> 00:08:03,000
with chicken
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00:08:03,079 --> 00:08:04,800
but the recipe that
I'm going to show you today
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is going to be done with pork.
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This is a recipe
from my Aunt Caroline
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and she says that
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00:08:12,319 --> 00:08:14,360
the porkrichnessot more
226
00:08:14,439 --> 00:08:17,240
in terms of the flavor
and texture as well.
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00:08:17,319 --> 00:08:20,839
It just allows the flavor to
absorb into the pork
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00:08:20,920 --> 00:08:22,160
a lot better.
[music stops]
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[upbeat music]
All right, Mark, let's start
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the hard work right now.
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00:08:24,839 --> 00:08:27,199
We need to dig our way in
to extract it.
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00:08:27,279 --> 00:08:29,600
[pestle smashing]
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00:08:29,680 --> 00:08:31,240
[Malcolm] This is
what we are looking for.
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00:08:31,319 --> 00:08:32,960
- [Mark] That color.
- [Malcolm] Yeah.
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00:08:33,039 --> 00:08:34,519
You can give it a sniff.
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00:08:34,600 --> 00:08:36,240
[Mark sniffing]
237
00:08:36,320 --> 00:08:37,600
Almost, I'm smelling, like
238
00:08:37,679 --> 00:08:39,360
a little bit of
a mushroom aroma to it.
239
00:08:39,440 --> 00:08:42,080
And we need to
take out the filling.
240
00:08:43,000 --> 00:08:44,240
So now, you try.
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00:08:44,320 --> 00:08:45,320
- OK?
- All right.
242
00:08:45,399 --> 00:08:47,000
[hammer smashing]
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00:08:47,080 --> 00:08:49,080
[Mark] This one has
a really dark chocolate cake
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kind of color to it.
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00:08:50,879 --> 00:08:52,200
[Malcolm] All right,
so this is the paste
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00:08:52,279 --> 00:08:54,600
that we are going to use
in the dish later.
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We're going to have
to strain it one time
248
00:08:57,039 --> 00:08:59,799
because there's
some bits of shell inside
249
00:08:59,879 --> 00:09:01,639
and you don't want
someone to chew on it
250
00:09:01,720 --> 00:09:03,799
and get a broken tooth.
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00:09:03,879 --> 00:09:06,200
And next,
we are going to prepare
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one of the foundations
for a lot of Peranakan dishes
253
00:09:09,480 --> 00:09:11,320
which is called a rempah
254
00:09:11,399 --> 00:09:14,759
or simply means a spice paste.
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00:09:14,840 --> 00:09:19,200
I usually like to pound
the dry chili first.
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00:09:19,279 --> 00:09:20,879
[pestle and mortar pounding]
257
00:09:20,960 --> 00:09:23,960
I'm just going to put
the shrimp paste inside now.
258
00:09:24,039 --> 00:09:26,320
[pestle and mortar pounding]
259
00:09:26,399 --> 00:09:28,639
[Mark] Oh yeah. That gives it
a little bit of texture.
260
00:09:30,679 --> 00:09:32,759
[Malcolm] OK,
now we're gonna add garlic.
261
00:09:34,679 --> 00:09:35,879
[pestle and mortar pounding]
262
00:09:37,440 --> 00:09:39,399
All ingredient.final
263
00:09:39,480 --> 00:09:40,799
- OK. Wow.
- We're almost there...
264
00:09:40,879 --> 00:09:42,039
OK? Shallot.
265
00:09:43,519 --> 00:09:45,600
[pestle and mortar pounding]
266
00:09:45,679 --> 00:09:48,519
Hey Mark,
that looks very good already.
267
00:09:48,600 --> 00:09:50,080
- All right!
- How's your arm doing?
268
00:09:50,159 --> 00:09:52,480
- Oh, I'll be sore tomorrow.
- I can see...
269
00:09:52,559 --> 00:09:53,840
[both laughing]
270
00:09:53,919 --> 00:09:55,720
- That was a workout.
- I can see that.
271
00:09:55,799 --> 00:09:57,480
[Malcolm] So I'm going to
scrape allbowl. out into a
272
00:09:57,559 --> 00:09:59,200
See the spice paste?
273
00:09:59,279 --> 00:10:01,080
- [Mark] Oh, yeah.
- It's ncreamy. sticky,
274
00:10:01,159 --> 00:10:02,639
- [Mark] So much flavor.
- [Malcolm] Yeah.
275
00:10:02,720 --> 00:10:04,240
What we're going to do now
276
00:10:04,320 --> 00:10:06,919
is to continue to
develop flavor.
277
00:10:07,000 --> 00:10:08,720
We're going to fry
the rempah
278
00:10:08,799 --> 00:10:10,360
[mixture frying]
to caramelize it.
279
00:10:10,440 --> 00:10:13,000
The shallots, the garlic...
280
00:10:13,080 --> 00:10:15,000
the aroma imout.ately comes
281
00:10:15,080 --> 00:10:17,200
Oh, I wanna bathe in that
[Malcolm laughing]
282
00:10:17,279 --> 00:10:18,279
[Mark laughing]
283
00:10:18,360 --> 00:10:19,759
OK, now we are ready to add
284
00:10:19,840 --> 00:10:21,200
the pork to the rempah.
285
00:10:21,279 --> 00:10:22,639
New aromas are emerging.
286
00:10:22,720 --> 00:10:24,080
Yeah.
287
00:10:24,159 --> 00:10:26,360
A bit of that pork
and pork lard coming out.
288
00:10:26,440 --> 00:10:27,519
[Mark] Yeah.
289
00:10:27,600 --> 00:10:29,240
Combiningpaste.the chili
290
00:10:29,320 --> 00:10:31,279
So, right now,
we're going to put
291
00:10:31,360 --> 00:10:32,960
the buah keluak paste
292
00:10:33,039 --> 00:10:34,759
the black nut paste in here
293
00:10:34,840 --> 00:10:36,720
and it's gonna change again.
294
00:10:36,799 --> 00:10:39,320
That's such
a special ingredient.
295
00:10:39,399 --> 00:10:40,840
You can smell it already.
296
00:10:40,919 --> 00:10:43,360
It's those earthy notes
that start to come out.
297
00:10:45,679 --> 00:10:47,639
We're just going to add
more aromatics.
298
00:10:47,720 --> 00:10:48,919
We have the lemongrass
299
00:10:49,000 --> 00:10:50,399
the kaffir lime.
300
00:10:50,480 --> 00:10:53,039
All right, after this,
I'm just going to add water.
301
00:10:53,120 --> 00:10:54,919
[Mark] Wow.
302
00:10:55,000 --> 00:10:58,440
[Malcolm] Allow it to braise
for about two hours.
303
00:10:58,519 --> 00:11:02,240
OK, Mark. The only thing
we can do wait. now is to
304
00:11:02,320 --> 00:11:03,799
But we're gonna go to
the dining room
305
00:11:03,879 --> 00:11:06,480
and we're going to serve
some dishes from our menu
306
00:11:06,559 --> 00:11:07,759
and I hope you enjoy them.
307
00:11:07,840 --> 00:11:08,919
Oh, fantastic.
[music stops]
308
00:11:09,000 --> 00:11:10,440
[peaceful music]
309
00:11:22,440 --> 00:11:24,159
We've prepared
some dishes here today.
310
00:11:24,240 --> 00:11:26,639
And so, here we have
a wing bean salad.
311
00:11:26,720 --> 00:11:29,639
The traditional way
is a lot more heavier in style
312
00:11:29,720 --> 00:11:32,399
but I decided to do
something a bit lighter
313
00:11:32,480 --> 00:11:34,159
and add inherbst of fresh
314
00:11:34,240 --> 00:11:35,840
like mint leaves
315
00:11:35,919 --> 00:11:37,399
and sliced lemongrass
[knife cutting]
316
00:11:37,480 --> 00:11:39,080
And the dressing,
I kept very simple
317
00:11:39,159 --> 00:11:41,879
with a calamansi lime
[liquid pouring]
318
00:11:46,799 --> 00:11:47,759
[Mark chewing]
319
00:11:50,759 --> 00:11:51,639
Oh, yeah.
320
00:11:53,720 --> 00:11:55,120
It's so refreshing.
321
00:11:55,200 --> 00:11:57,720
The lime gives it
almost an orange juice
322
00:11:57,799 --> 00:11:59,720
kind of citrusy brightness.
323
00:11:59,799 --> 00:12:01,440
The wing beans
[knife cutting]
324
00:12:01,519 --> 00:12:05,200
have a kind of similar texture
to, like, boiled green beans
325
00:12:05,279 --> 00:12:08,919
in that they're refreshing
has that crispness to it.
326
00:12:09,000 --> 00:12:10,600
The shallots come in.
327
00:12:10,679 --> 00:12:13,480
You've got the herbal touch
with the coriander
328
00:12:13,559 --> 00:12:15,200
with some mint in there
329
00:12:15,279 --> 00:12:17,720
and then the lemongrass is
justbackground. the
330
00:12:17,799 --> 00:12:20,840
That foundation of aroma
is really good.
331
00:12:20,919 --> 00:12:22,840
And Mark, the next dish
we're going to try
332
00:12:22,919 --> 00:12:24,159
is the crab curry.
333
00:12:25,360 --> 00:12:26,720
It's done with some turmeric
334
00:12:26,799 --> 00:12:28,120
galangal
335
00:12:28,200 --> 00:12:30,080
and also lots of coconut milk
336
00:12:30,159 --> 00:12:31,960
and finished
with calamansi lime.
337
00:12:35,519 --> 00:12:37,120
OK.
338
00:12:37,200 --> 00:12:38,559
Loaded with crab.
339
00:12:38,639 --> 00:12:40,519
[Malcolm] And this was
a dish that we created
340
00:12:40,600 --> 00:12:41,759
nine years ago.
341
00:12:41,840 --> 00:12:44,039
And the moment
it was on the menu
342
00:12:44,120 --> 00:12:45,919
it's like we couldn't
remove it at all.
343
00:12:46,000 --> 00:12:48,279
- [Mark] So, unchanged?
- Unchanged, yeah.
344
00:12:48,360 --> 00:12:50,759
[Mark] That sauce is so thick
from that coconut milk.
345
00:12:56,679 --> 00:12:57,519
Oh, wow.
346
00:12:58,840 --> 00:13:00,240
That is just amazing.
347
00:13:00,320 --> 00:13:02,759
The sweet, stringy crab
348
00:13:02,840 --> 00:13:05,120
the thick, rich coconut cream
349
00:13:05,200 --> 00:13:07,320
and milk just coming together.
350
00:13:07,399 --> 00:13:09,240
The flavor of those spices
351
00:13:09,320 --> 00:13:10,840
the galangal, the turmeric
352
00:13:10,919 --> 00:13:12,159
the lemongrass
353
00:13:12,240 --> 00:13:13,879
the citrusy-ness
of those lime leaves.
354
00:13:13,960 --> 00:13:15,879
But everything
in a perfect harmony
355
00:13:15,960 --> 00:13:17,200
a perfect balance.
356
00:13:17,279 --> 00:13:19,320
Nothing, like,
overpowering each other.
357
00:13:19,399 --> 00:13:23,360
This, to me, is a type of food
that I absolutely love.
358
00:13:23,440 --> 00:13:26,279
From what I've been learning
about Peranakan food
359
00:13:26,360 --> 00:13:29,320
is that it's very much
a home-based cuisine.
360
00:13:29,399 --> 00:13:30,639
- Yes, it is.
- How did you learn
361
00:13:30,720 --> 00:13:31,919
Peranakan cooking?
[music stops]
362
00:13:32,000 --> 00:13:33,480
Well, I learnt the hard way
363
00:13:33,559 --> 00:13:34,759
by suffering
[joyful music]
364
00:13:34,840 --> 00:13:38,120
with my mom
and grandma's teaching.
365
00:13:38,200 --> 00:13:41,440
They really taught me
the foundatfoodof all this
366
00:13:41,519 --> 00:13:43,519
from the ingredients
to the preparing.
367
00:13:43,600 --> 00:13:45,600
At the same time,
it's that patience
368
00:13:45,679 --> 00:13:47,639
and attention to detail.
369
00:13:47,720 --> 00:13:50,039
Yeah, so that all really
from my family.
370
00:13:50,120 --> 00:13:54,120
What inspired you
to take Peranakan food
371
00:13:54,200 --> 00:13:55,399
to a fine dining level?
372
00:13:55,480 --> 00:13:56,639
You know, actually,
interestingly
373
00:13:56,720 --> 00:13:58,159
my journey started off
374
00:13:58,240 --> 00:14:02,480
really wanting to learn more
about Western cuisine
375
00:14:02,559 --> 00:14:04,320
because that was
kind of the cool thing, right?
376
00:14:04,399 --> 00:14:05,720
But after a while, I realized
377
00:14:05,799 --> 00:14:07,320
if I'm spending so much time
378
00:14:07,399 --> 00:14:09,519
learning about
other people's culture
379
00:14:09,600 --> 00:14:11,360
then I should be spending time
380
00:14:11,440 --> 00:14:14,480
learning about our own
our own culture and recipes.
381
00:14:14,559 --> 00:14:16,639
So that was the turning point.
382
00:14:16,720 --> 00:14:17,840
If I learn this
383
00:14:17,919 --> 00:14:19,919
I want tpeople. it with
384
00:14:20,000 --> 00:14:22,600
And hence
the restaurant was born.
385
00:14:22,679 --> 00:14:24,480
And also,
the food that we present
386
00:14:24,559 --> 00:14:28,519
has also taken a slightly more
contemporary touch.
387
00:14:28,600 --> 00:14:30,960
All right,
this is all the hard work
388
00:14:31,039 --> 00:14:32,639
that we did just now.
389
00:14:32,720 --> 00:14:34,559
It's ready for you to try.
390
00:14:34,639 --> 00:14:36,080
This is our
pork buah keluak
391
00:14:36,159 --> 00:14:37,759
done with the soft bone
392
00:14:37,840 --> 00:14:41,559
that has been cooked down
into this dry curry state
393
00:14:41,639 --> 00:14:44,080
and it's really, really
full of flavor.
394
00:14:44,159 --> 00:14:45,440
[music stops]
395
00:14:45,519 --> 00:14:47,639
[Mark] Look how moist
and meaty it is
396
00:14:47,720 --> 00:14:48,840
on the center.
[peaceful music]
397
00:14:48,919 --> 00:14:51,080
You can see
the fibers of the pork.
398
00:14:51,159 --> 00:14:53,559
Oh, it's just...
That pork is just completely
399
00:14:53,639 --> 00:14:54,720
fall-apart tender.
400
00:14:55,600 --> 00:14:57,519
The... I mean...
401
00:14:57,600 --> 00:15:00,519
all of those components
and spices
402
00:15:00,600 --> 00:15:02,799
the rempah, and the...
403
00:15:02,879 --> 00:15:04,120
especially
that buah keluak
404
00:15:04,200 --> 00:15:05,639
is so aromatic.
405
00:15:05,720 --> 00:15:06,559
You just...
406
00:15:08,240 --> 00:15:09,240
Smells incredible.
407
00:15:11,600 --> 00:15:12,840
[Mark chewing]
408
00:15:19,840 --> 00:15:20,679
Yes!
409
00:15:21,519 --> 00:15:22,759
Oh, this is...
410
00:15:22,840 --> 00:15:24,240
this is the dish.
411
00:15:24,320 --> 00:15:26,639
The pork is so tender
it just melts in your mouth.
412
00:15:26,720 --> 00:15:28,440
I mean,
it's almost hard to describe
413
00:15:28,519 --> 00:15:30,000
because it's so complex.
414
00:15:30,080 --> 00:15:32,279
You really prominently
taste the flavor
415
00:15:32,360 --> 00:15:33,480
of the buah keluak.
416
00:15:33,559 --> 00:15:34,759
A little bit earthy
417
00:15:34,840 --> 00:15:38,120
a hint of chocolaty notes
418
00:15:38,200 --> 00:15:39,799
a hint of bitterness
419
00:15:39,879 --> 00:15:41,440
even a hint of sweetness.
420
00:15:41,519 --> 00:15:43,919
It's jusflavor.nsed with
421
00:15:44,000 --> 00:15:45,360
And then, all of that
[food stir-frying]
422
00:15:45,440 --> 00:15:47,039
wrapped up within that pork
423
00:15:47,120 --> 00:15:49,240
that's just been simmered
[broth boiling]
424
00:15:49,320 --> 00:15:52,840
The oils have just absorbed
into the nut.
425
00:15:52,919 --> 00:15:55,000
It's just a flavor overdose.
426
00:15:55,080 --> 00:15:56,519
Peranakan food sometimes
427
00:15:56,600 --> 00:15:58,399
it looks very simple.
428
00:15:58,480 --> 00:16:00,320
The colors may
not look particularly...
429
00:16:00,399 --> 00:16:02,120
you know,
may not jump out at you
430
00:16:02,200 --> 00:16:03,600
but the flavor is so good.
431
00:16:03,679 --> 00:16:05,360
For me, it's the best food
in the world.
432
00:16:05,440 --> 00:16:07,399
Something I believe
can be up there
433
00:16:07,480 --> 00:16:10,200
with the other famous cuisines
of the world.
434
00:16:10,279 --> 00:16:12,399
And everyothis.ould enjoy
435
00:16:12,480 --> 00:16:13,399
For sure.
436
00:16:13,480 --> 00:16:14,720
[jazz music]
437
00:16:17,919 --> 00:16:20,840
And here it is, our dessert
438
00:16:20,919 --> 00:16:22,600
the buah keluak ice
cream. [music stops]
439
00:16:22,679 --> 00:16:23,679
[joyful music]
440
00:16:23,759 --> 00:16:25,240
There's layers of flavor
441
00:16:25,320 --> 00:16:27,480
with the salted caramel
at the bottom
442
00:16:27,559 --> 00:16:30,240
chocolate crumble that has
mixed with some chili.
443
00:16:30,320 --> 00:16:31,399
The ice cream itself
444
00:16:31,480 --> 00:16:33,679
is made from
the earthy buah keluak
445
00:16:33,759 --> 00:16:37,960
and finished with the warm
milk chocolate sauce.
446
00:16:38,039 --> 00:16:39,039
[Mark] Wow, look at that
chocolaty goodness
447
00:16:40,200 --> 00:16:41,039
on the inside.
448
00:16:43,879 --> 00:16:45,080
I'm gonna make sure to get
449
00:16:45,159 --> 00:16:46,639
a little bit of everything
in one bite.
450
00:16:56,879 --> 00:16:58,440
The flavors are building.
451
00:16:58,519 --> 00:17:00,320
They keep on coming.
452
00:17:00,399 --> 00:17:02,519
Wow, this is
a beautifully done dessert.
453
00:17:02,600 --> 00:17:04,000
Not too sweet.
454
00:17:04,079 --> 00:17:07,240
And I never thought that
as we were scraping
455
00:17:07,319 --> 00:17:09,039
those buah keluak nuts
456
00:17:09,119 --> 00:17:12,680
that it would ever translate
into something sweet
457
00:17:12,759 --> 00:17:14,880
into a dessert like this.
458
00:17:14,960 --> 00:17:19,000
Chef Malcolm, I think
thdemonstrationing
459
00:17:19,079 --> 00:17:21,640
of how you're taking
a traditional ingredient
460
00:17:21,720 --> 00:17:25,240
but then reinterpreting it
in your own way.
461
00:17:25,319 --> 00:17:27,839
I think that's what
we always strive to do.
462
00:17:27,920 --> 00:17:31,279
You know, being
a very traditional cuisine
463
00:17:31,359 --> 00:17:33,119
it's difficult to find
that balance, you know.
464
00:17:33,200 --> 00:17:34,799
Being too traditional
465
00:17:34,880 --> 00:17:36,559
you may end up not being able
[knife cutting]
466
00:17:36,640 --> 00:17:38,559
to connect with
the current generation
467
00:17:38,640 --> 00:17:40,200
but if you take it too far
468
00:17:40,279 --> 00:17:42,039
and then it kind of
loses its soul.
469
00:17:42,119 --> 00:17:43,799
Definitely. And Chef Malcolm
470
00:17:43,880 --> 00:17:49,319
this is a surprising
and delicious ending
471
00:17:49,400 --> 00:17:52,279
to this outstanding meal.
472
00:17:54,519 --> 00:17:56,200
[Malcolm laughing]
473
00:17:56,279 --> 00:17:57,519
Wow.
[music stops]
474
00:17:57,599 --> 00:17:58,799
[upbeat music] [Mark]
While the complexity
475
00:17:58,880 --> 00:18:00,359
of Peranakan food
lends itself well
476
00:18:00,440 --> 00:18:02,960
in the hands of a fine
dining chef like Malcolm
477
00:18:03,039 --> 00:18:05,000
the flavors of
this cherished cuisine
478
00:18:05,079 --> 00:18:07,279
are not lost
at hawker centers either.
479
00:18:07,359 --> 00:18:08,480
There are
different kinds of
480
00:18:08,559 --> 00:18:10,039
Peranakan-inspired
hawker dishes
481
00:18:10,119 --> 00:18:12,039
but Malcolm tells me
the one he can
482
00:18:12,119 --> 00:18:13,160
never say no to
[music stops]
483
00:18:13,240 --> 00:18:14,079
is laksa.
484
00:18:19,920 --> 00:18:21,279
[peaceful music]
485
00:18:21,359 --> 00:18:23,640
[Mark] Old Nyonya is run
by Tony and Ruby
486
00:18:23,720 --> 00:18:25,359
a husband and wife team.
487
00:18:26,880 --> 00:18:29,079
Tony, a former
civil servant
488
00:18:29,160 --> 00:18:31,440
and Ruby,
a former salesperson
489
00:18:31,519 --> 00:18:34,960
quit their day jobs
to start this stall.
490
00:18:35,039 --> 00:18:38,720
Old Nyonya serves
hearty bowls of laksa.
491
00:18:38,799 --> 00:18:39,960
In Peranakan culture
492
00:18:40,039 --> 00:18:42,240
the women are referred to
as "nyonya"
493
00:18:42,319 --> 00:18:44,480
and it's the nyonyas of
this community
494
00:18:44,559 --> 00:18:46,359
who created
this special cuisine.
495
00:18:46,440 --> 00:18:47,880
[fire burning]
496
00:18:47,960 --> 00:18:49,960
There is a lot of prep that
goes into making laksa
497
00:18:50,039 --> 00:18:52,480
if you still do it
the old school way
498
00:18:52,559 --> 00:18:53,920
which this place does.
499
00:18:55,240 --> 00:18:57,799
The broth, which is
the soul of the dish
500
00:18:57,880 --> 00:19:01,559
requires a tedious process
if made from scratch.
501
00:19:01,640 --> 00:19:04,359
First, ingredients
like shallots
502
00:19:04,440 --> 00:19:07,240
chilies and a whole
lot more are blended.
503
00:19:08,400 --> 00:19:10,000
[blender running]
504
00:19:10,079 --> 00:19:12,200
The blend is then fried
with sambal
505
00:19:12,279 --> 00:19:14,200
a kind of chili paste.
506
00:19:14,279 --> 00:19:17,400
This creates a mouthwatering,
fiery mixture.
507
00:19:17,480 --> 00:19:19,519
It's then combined with
a concoction
508
00:19:19,599 --> 00:19:21,279
containing lemongrass
[food dropping]
509
00:19:21,359 --> 00:19:24,519
rock sugar
and a secret sauce.
510
00:19:24,599 --> 00:19:26,400
It's left to sit for
two hours [broth boiling]
511
00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:27,799
[coconut milk pouring]
then coconut milk
512
00:19:27,880 --> 00:19:30,519
and fried tofu are added.
[tofu dropping]
513
00:19:30,599 --> 00:19:32,079
Once the broth is ready
514
00:19:32,160 --> 00:19:35,000
it's ladled over
blanched rice noodles
515
00:19:35,079 --> 00:19:36,640
and garnished
with ingredients like
516
00:19:36,720 --> 00:19:39,839
prawns, bean sprouts
and a hard-boiled egg.
517
00:19:41,960 --> 00:19:43,960
Laksa is, like,
one of my favorite things
518
00:19:44,039 --> 00:19:46,119
so I can't wait as well.
[music stops]
519
00:19:46,200 --> 00:19:47,519
Oh, here we go!
520
00:19:47,599 --> 00:19:50,480
- Oh, nice.
- Thank you.
521
00:19:50,559 --> 00:19:53,000
Immediately as she set it
you can just smell that aroma.
522
00:19:53,079 --> 00:19:54,799
- [Malcolm] Yeah...
- OK, so tfirst?hat broth
523
00:19:54,880 --> 00:19:55,880
[Malcolm] Yeah.
524
00:19:55,960 --> 00:19:57,000
[both slurping]
525
00:19:59,839 --> 00:20:01,240
[joyful music]
Oh, that is...
526
00:20:02,079 --> 00:20:03,519
warm and comforting.
527
00:20:03,599 --> 00:20:05,960
It's creamy
from the coconut milk.
528
00:20:06,039 --> 00:20:08,559
That foundation
of all of those herbs
529
00:20:08,640 --> 00:20:10,400
and that chili paste.
530
00:20:10,480 --> 00:20:13,200
Oh, it's just so tasty.
What do Malcolm?k, Chef
531
00:20:13,279 --> 00:20:15,519
It's like an explosion
of flavors inside.
532
00:20:15,599 --> 00:20:17,680
You have the layers of
the chili spices
533
00:20:17,759 --> 00:20:19,799
and then the creaminess
at the end.
534
00:20:19,880 --> 00:20:20,920
And the finish is so
535
00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:22,000
well balanced.
[music stops]
536
00:20:22,079 --> 00:20:23,680
Now we mix
the laksa leaves
537
00:20:23,759 --> 00:20:26,039
and the sambal chili
together in the broth.
538
00:20:26,119 --> 00:20:27,839
[joyful music] Oh yeah, I can
smell that laksa leaf.
539
00:20:27,920 --> 00:20:29,000
Yeah.
540
00:20:29,079 --> 00:20:29,920
[Mark slurping]
541
00:20:34,079 --> 00:20:35,680
- Actually it even got
c- Yeah..
542
00:20:35,759 --> 00:20:37,559
As I stirred that around
543
00:20:37,640 --> 00:20:40,160
I think maybe it unleashed
some of thcream.a coconut
544
00:20:40,240 --> 00:20:42,359
More creamy...
[Malcolm laughing]
545
00:20:42,440 --> 00:20:43,640
you do taste
the laksa leaf...
546
00:20:43,720 --> 00:20:45,400
- Yes.
- Which gives it more of a...
547
00:20:45,480 --> 00:20:49,079
just a hint of a minty,
coriander taste.
548
00:20:49,160 --> 00:20:50,480
And then
the sambal does
549
00:20:50,559 --> 00:20:52,319
bump up that heat level
just a little bit.
550
00:20:52,400 --> 00:20:53,680
- Yeah, it is.
- It's great.
551
00:20:53,759 --> 00:20:55,519
And then now, we go
straight to everything else.
552
00:20:55,599 --> 00:20:56,480
Now we go all in.
553
00:21:01,960 --> 00:21:02,839
Good, huh?
554
00:21:04,039 --> 00:21:05,799
Yeah. Oh, that's...
555
00:21:05,880 --> 00:21:07,839
- That's the bite right there.
- Yeah.
556
00:21:07,920 --> 00:21:09,440
With the noodles...
557
00:21:09,519 --> 00:21:10,680
they're really slippery.
558
00:21:10,759 --> 00:21:12,240
Yeah. It just glides down
your throat.
559
00:21:12,319 --> 00:21:13,880
Yeah, they just kind of glide
down. [Malcolm laughing]
560
00:21:13,960 --> 00:21:15,519
[Mark laughing]
But it's very good...
561
00:21:15,599 --> 00:21:17,920
But yeah, all the flavors
just come together.
562
00:21:18,000 --> 00:21:20,519
The slippery noodles,
you taste that...
563
00:21:20,599 --> 00:21:22,640
kind of shrimp paste
flavor to it.
564
00:21:22,720 --> 00:21:24,000
You've got that laksa leaf
565
00:21:24,079 --> 00:21:26,400
and then just the creaminess
of the coconut milk.
566
00:21:26,480 --> 00:21:28,079
- [Malcolm] Exactly.
- That's wonderful.
567
00:21:28,160 --> 00:21:29,480
That's why laksa is
568
00:21:29,559 --> 00:21:31,400
one of my all-time
favorite dishes to eat.
569
00:21:31,480 --> 00:21:32,920
Comforting.
570
00:21:33,000 --> 00:21:35,400
Yeah, and it ofst reminds me
571
00:21:35,480 --> 00:21:36,880
home, family
[music stops]
572
00:21:36,960 --> 00:21:39,039
and happiness.
[Malcolm laughing]
573
00:21:39,119 --> 00:21:40,279
- [Mark] Happiness.
- Yeah.
574
00:21:40,359 --> 00:21:42,079
Hello!
[joyful music]
575
00:21:42,160 --> 00:21:43,079
[Mandarin]
How's the laksa?
576
00:21:43,160 --> 00:21:44,079
- Very good!
- Is it OK?
577
00:21:44,160 --> 00:21:45,359
Nice, yeah.
578
00:21:45,440 --> 00:21:46,960
- Please sit and join us.
- Amazing.
579
00:21:47,039 --> 00:21:49,160
Yeah, have a seat, please!
580
00:21:49,240 --> 00:21:51,119
How did you get into
this line of work?
581
00:21:51,200 --> 00:21:53,079
When he was still working
in the office
582
00:21:53,160 --> 00:21:57,880
he would prepare and cook
a lot of food over the weekend
583
00:21:57,960 --> 00:22:00,759
and share them with
his colleagues on Monday.
584
00:22:00,839 --> 00:22:03,160
His colleagues said
his food was really delicious.
585
00:22:03,240 --> 00:22:06,440
I was doing that
for more than ten years.
586
00:22:06,519 --> 00:22:08,559
One day, I told my wife
587
00:22:08,640 --> 00:22:13,880
"Why don't we open a stall
and see how things go?"
588
00:22:13,960 --> 00:22:17,240
That's how we started
this business.
589
00:22:17,319 --> 00:22:20,279
How's your life different now
than before
590
00:22:20,359 --> 00:22:21,920
when you worked in an office?
[music stops]
591
00:22:22,000 --> 00:22:24,920
When I had my office job,
I could take days off
592
00:22:25,000 --> 00:22:27,079
or take annual leave
to go on holidays
593
00:22:27,160 --> 00:22:28,200
or just to take a break.
[joyful music]
594
00:22:28,279 --> 00:22:32,039
But now, we have no holidays
595
00:22:32,119 --> 00:22:34,119
and we don'off.ke any days
596
00:22:34,200 --> 00:22:36,640
We need to work every day.
597
00:22:36,720 --> 00:22:40,000
We work long hours
in the hot weather.
598
00:22:40,079 --> 00:22:44,279
It can be over 35°C
here at the stall.
599
00:22:44,359 --> 00:22:47,039
What drives you
to keep on going?
600
00:22:47,119 --> 00:22:50,200
We have lots of
regular customers
601
00:22:50,279 --> 00:22:54,240
who tell us that
our food is amazing.
602
00:22:54,319 --> 00:22:56,519
They would ask
when our rest days are
603
00:22:56,599 --> 00:22:58,319
so they wouldn't come down
on our rest day
604
00:22:58,400 --> 00:22:59,720
and be disappointed.
605
00:22:59,799 --> 00:23:03,160
Sometimes, I'd see
customers, even tourists
606
00:23:03,240 --> 00:23:09,079
holding up their bowl
to down the broth
607
00:23:09,160 --> 00:23:13,240
or slurping the entire bowl of
broth with their spoon.
608
00:23:13,319 --> 00:23:16,799
They'd drink the broth down
to the last drop.
609
00:23:16,880 --> 00:23:18,559
And Mark, as we just heard
610
00:23:18,640 --> 00:23:20,519
you know, Aunty Ruby
and Uncle Tony
611
00:23:20,599 --> 00:23:22,599
they put in so much
time and effort
612
00:23:22,680 --> 00:23:25,319
into making a bowl of
laksa like this
613
00:23:25,400 --> 00:23:27,039
and it's delicious, right?
614
00:23:27,119 --> 00:23:28,400
We can really taste it.
615
00:23:28,480 --> 00:23:30,359
I believe with the time
that they put in
616
00:23:30,440 --> 00:23:32,400
it is as complex as any
617
00:23:32,480 --> 00:23:34,400
you know,
world-famous noodle dishes
618
00:23:34,480 --> 00:23:36,039
and we should recognize that.
619
00:23:36,119 --> 00:23:38,680
Your effort is very much
appreciated.
620
00:23:38,759 --> 00:23:41,200
The laksa is amazing.
621
00:23:41,279 --> 00:23:44,160
It takes a lot of effort
to make this dish
622
00:23:44,240 --> 00:23:46,799
but this is
where our passion lies
623
00:23:46,880 --> 00:23:50,759
so we will persevere.
624
00:23:50,839 --> 00:23:55,000
Especially when we see
customers coming back
625
00:23:55,079 --> 00:23:56,240
because they enjoy
our food so much.
626
00:23:56,319 --> 00:23:58,200
So, no mattgetsow tough it
627
00:23:58,279 --> 00:24:00,119
we'll keep the business going.
628
00:24:00,200 --> 00:24:01,079
[music stops]
629
00:24:02,640 --> 00:24:03,480
[chill lo-fi music]
630
00:24:13,079 --> 00:24:15,319
It's sundown
and I've found a place
631
00:24:15,400 --> 00:24:18,200
that serves
Peranakan-inspired cocktails.
632
00:24:18,279 --> 00:24:20,079
It's a restaurant bar
called Cherki
633
00:24:20,160 --> 00:24:22,960
within Singapore's
central business district.
634
00:24:23,039 --> 00:24:24,599
I've ordered up a cocktail
635
00:24:24,680 --> 00:24:27,200
which is called
Dancing in the Moonshine.
636
00:24:27,279 --> 00:24:30,039
It's a rum based cocktail
637
00:24:30,119 --> 00:24:32,599
which is a reimagination
[shaker tin shaking]
638
00:24:32,680 --> 00:24:34,039
of a Malay dessert
[cocktail pouring]
639
00:24:34,119 --> 00:24:35,519
called bubur cha cha.
640
00:24:35,599 --> 00:24:36,759
And so there are some of
641
00:24:36,839 --> 00:24:38,279
those signature flavors
in there.
642
00:24:38,359 --> 00:24:40,039
There's yam, there's pandan
643
00:24:40,119 --> 00:24:41,480
and coconut milk.
644
00:24:41,559 --> 00:24:43,079
Served with a spoon.
645
00:24:43,160 --> 00:24:44,359
So, that definitely means
646
00:24:44,440 --> 00:24:45,839
we're gonna need to
scoop and drink.
647
00:24:57,960 --> 00:24:59,440
And that's where
the rum kicks in.
648
00:24:59,519 --> 00:25:00,839
When you drink it
from the straw.
649
00:25:01,640 --> 00:25:02,920
Fruity.
650
00:25:03,000 --> 00:25:05,079
It has great flavor of
that coconut milk
651
00:25:05,160 --> 00:25:06,799
and it's just very refreshing
652
00:25:06,880 --> 00:25:09,480
and has a really nice
kind of tropical feel to it.
653
00:25:09,559 --> 00:25:11,759
Oh, this is a sweet ending
[joyful music]
654
00:25:11,839 --> 00:25:14,799
to all of
the delicious Peranakan food.
655
00:25:14,880 --> 00:25:17,079
My experiences with
these Peranakan chefs
656
00:25:17,160 --> 00:25:18,799
really reminded me of home
657
00:25:18,880 --> 00:25:20,880
where my mother-in-law
would spend hours
658
00:25:20,960 --> 00:25:23,440
making curry pastes
from scratch.
659
00:25:23,519 --> 00:25:25,319
I really love
660
00:25:25,400 --> 00:25:28,759
the combination of ingredients
that go into Peranakan food
661
00:25:28,839 --> 00:25:31,720
and the mix of cultures
that it represents.
662
00:25:31,799 --> 00:25:34,720
I love even
the different mix of dishes
663
00:25:34,799 --> 00:25:38,039
that all make
a family meal complete.
664
00:25:38,119 --> 00:25:40,359
I really believe
that Peranakan cuisine
665
00:25:40,440 --> 00:25:43,240
is one of the lesser
known cuisines
666
00:25:43,319 --> 00:25:46,480
but it is a food that
you have to try
667
00:25:46,559 --> 00:25:48,759
when you're in
this region of Southeast Asia.
668
00:25:48,839 --> 00:25:51,160
If you don't,
you're missing out.
669
00:25:51,240 --> 00:25:52,480
Can't believe we got down
670
00:25:52,559 --> 00:25:53,880
to the bottom
of the bowl so quickly.
671
00:25:53,960 --> 00:25:55,400
And that bowl is clean.
[music stops]
672
00:25:55,480 --> 00:25:56,480
- Yes.
- Cleaned out.
673
00:25:56,559 --> 00:25:57,759
[upbeat music]
Cleaned out.
674
00:27:07,160 --> 00:27:08,039
[music stops]
48987
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