Afrikaans
Akan
Albanian
Amharic
Arabic
Armenian
Azerbaijani
Basque
Belarusian
Bemba
Bengali
Bihari
Bosnian
Breton
Bulgarian
Cambodian
Catalan
Cebuano
Cherokee
Chichewa
Chinese (Simplified)
Corsican
Croatian
Czech
Danish
Dutch
English
Esperanto
Estonian
Ewe
Faroese
Filipino
Finnish
French
Frisian
Ga
Galician
Georgian
German
Greek
Guarani
Gujarati
Haitian Creole
Hausa
Hawaiian
Hebrew
Hindi
Hmong
Hungarian
Icelandic
Igbo
Indonesian
Interlingua
Irish
Italian
Japanese
Javanese
Kannada
Kazakh
Kinyarwanda
Kirundi
Kongo
Korean
Krio (Sierra Leone)
Kurdish
Kurdish (Soranรฎ)
Kyrgyz
Laothian
Latin
Latvian
Lingala
Lithuanian
Lozi
Luganda
Luo
Luxembourgish
Macedonian
Malagasy
Malay
Malayalam
Maltese
Maori
Marathi
Mauritian Creole
Moldavian
Mongolian
Myanmar (Burmese)
Montenegrin
Nepali
Nigerian Pidgin
Northern Sotho
Norwegian
Norwegian (Nynorsk)
Occitan
Oriya
Oromo
Pashto
Persian
Polish
Portuguese (Brazil)
Portuguese (Portugal)
Punjabi
Quechua
Romanian
Romansh
Runyakitara
Russian
Samoan
Scots Gaelic
Serbian
Serbo-Croatian
Sesotho
Setswana
Seychellois Creole
Shona
Sindhi
Sinhalese
Slovak
Slovenian
Somali
Spanish
Spanish (Latin American)
Sundanese
Swahili
Swedish
Tajik
Tamil
Tatar
Telugu
Thai
Tigrinya
Tonga
Tshiluba
Tumbuka
Turkish
Turkmen
Twi
Uighur
Ukrainian
Urdu
Uzbek
Vietnamese
Welsh
Wolof
Xhosa
Yiddish
Yoruba
Zulu
today I'm going to build a Moxon base
using this kit that you can purchase for
under $40 this kit comes with everything
that you need to build a quality Moxon
vise it also comes with a set of
instructions and the only thing that you
need to provide yourself is some wood
you can use any kind of wood that you
have so I'm gonna go look at my lumber
stack and see what I have to work with
all right let's see if this boards gonna
work the instructions that came with the
hardware suggested that the front jaw be
23 and a half inches wide and then the
backdoor is going to have two tabs that
are going to be used for clamping and
each one of those tabs is three inches
long so that's an added six inches onto
the back piece so that's twenty nine and
a half oh yeah alright
so I have an inch and a quarter leftover
from this board perfect-sized gonna go
clean it up now
[Music]
before trimming these pieces to final
width I'm just going to join one edge it
looks like it's been jointed already but
when I run my square along the edge
there's light shining through all over
the place I don't have a jointer so I
used my tapering jig and I just clamp it
so that I feel a little bit running
along the edge of the jig here and when
I do such thick material on this jig I
just have to put a little spacer or
riser block on the back of these clamps
to create the perfect leverage for these
clamps all right now I'm just gonna
clean this up now that I have one edge
that is completely square I can use it
to reference against the fence of the
table saw and clean up the other edge
and get this to final with the
instructions suggest at least four
inches and this is really just up to you
kind of depends how tall you are or how
tall your workbench is there's really
just no set rule here just do what feels
good to you the pieces are now ready for
some layout lines for the holes for the
hardware so the first thing to do is
find the center of the boards these are
4 inches wide so 2 inches is the center
going to mark that on either end of the
front jaw now the instructions say to
mark two and 3/8 in from the ends of
just the front jaws now it's going to be
really important that the front jaw and
back job line up correctly so in order
to make sure that these two holes are
going to line up I'm going to just
transfer this two and 3/8 inch mark from
the front jaw onto the back jaw by
lining up these pieces making sure
there's the correct amount of overhang
so I know that I left over three inches
on either side
and I'll take my combo square again I'm
going to line it up on that two and
three eighths inch mark that I had just
put out there on the front fence line it
up and bring it across onto the back jaw
I'll do that on both ends
all right so oh I didn't find the center
of this yet but it's easy just two
inches all right so now these holes are
going to line up and the reason why I'm
doing it this way is because the front
jaw is actually not going to have a
round hole it's going to have an oval
hole so I'm gonna take that two and
three eighths inch mark of it I drew out
there and I'm going to mark a quarter
inch on either end of that mark right on
the center line and I'll do that on both
ends now these two marks are where I'm
going to drill out my holes to create
the oval hole for the front and jaw are
you seeing a really dull bit and it's
burning like crazy
I moved the board over to that second
quarter inch line that was off of the
original two and three eighths line that
I had made and now I'll just drill bit
out elongating the hole now I'll just
use a chisel to clean up those two
pointy parts to create the oval
before moving on let me just do a test
and see if everything is fitting nicely
a little hung up one second all right
perfect
all right so this is why I had to mark
out the lines on the back jaw earlier
because I can't really use these ovals
as a reference now for where to drill
the corresponding holes so that's why
you have to do that step earlier on all
right now I'm going to drill out the
back door
I want to recess this nut on the inside
face of the rear jaw so I'm going to use
a one inch Forstner bit and I'm going to
go just slightly deeper than the
thickness of this nut so that it will be
fully recessed into the board and what
is the difference between a sharp bit
and a dull one this is a bigger bed it's
one inches over 3/4 inches and it's
super clean I gotta get a new 3/4 inch
Forstner bit or at least figure out a
way to sharpen it now I have to swap
back out to that dull 3/4 inch bit so
that I could drill all the way through
and finish up the holes
so the hole is drilled all the way
through there's a 3/4 inch hole that's
all the way through and a one-inch
recessed hole over here in order to
recess the bolt fully into there just
going to put the bolt on here drop this
down into the hole and I'm going to
scribe around the nut
all the hard parts are done and now just
to add a few small little details on the
front jaw I want to cut a bevel in the
top front and that is so when I'm
actually using the vise when I'm using a
saw cutting this way this is the front
the the jaws just won't get in the way
of my tools so I just set this to a
random angle and a distance
that looked okay to me gonna cut it away
that bevel looks pretty sweet now so the
way that the vise works is that you
clamp the back draw on to your worktable
after you install all the hardware
obviously and if you leave the
extensions like this your clamps might
get in the way of your work so there are
a few ways to fix that you can either
drill some holes in the extensions and
that way you can put clamps through the
holes or I'm going to just cut away at a
little section over here to create some
room for the clamp heads
I couldn't raise the table saw blade
high enough to finish up that cut so
I'll just finish the cut with a handsaw
a mocks and vise would really come in
handy for client thinking this piece
right now
[Laughter]
before I can install the hardware the
instructions say that I need to clean
them with denatured alcohol the
instructions also mention that all the
parts are made from untreated steel
which means that they could possibly
rust so they suggest using a rust
inhibitor I am a huge fan of the
specialist line from wd-40 specifically
this long-term corrosion inhibitor
simply spray on any metal parts and they
will be protected from rust and
corrosion for up to a year if left
outdoors or two years indoors if
humidity is an issue in your garage like
behind this long-term corrosion
inhibitor is a great solution to keeping
your tools rust free everything is nice
and coated now so it's time to install
the hardware the holes that I made that
fit the nuts in the back dog go on the
inside face so I'll just thread this
onto here just a little bit and set it
into place now I'll keep screwing it
until it comes out through the back then
lock it into place with a washer and
another nut and I'll just repeat the
same thing to the other side in order to
use the vise correctly you want to make
sure that you're aligning it with the
edge of your workbench because if it was
pushed forward you wouldn't be able to
clamp in at all workpiece so this needs
to be completely flush so that way you
can clamped all pieces so there are a
few ways that you can do this I think
that it might be an interesting and cool
way to put on these little tabs onto
here that you could just push it and it
quickly references the edge of the
workbench so I'm just gonna go and screw
those on
I just ended the tabs to shape and I
broke all the edges just to make
everything smooth and now I'm going to
finish them up with some Danish oil so
they say not to put any finish on the
inside to maximize the gripping power of
the vise so I will just apply it on the
outside all right finally time to
assemble it all first we're gonna just
drawn these tabs I drilled oversized
holes in them so that the screws will go
through it and that way I could turn
them and lift them out of the way in
case I ever need to so it's tight enough
so that it will have a positive stop
against here but it's loose enough that
I can fold them out of the way
in case for some reason I ever need them
out of the way
before putting on the front jaw I'll
just clamp it down so that it doesn't
tip over and I'm actually going to leave
the inside of the jaws bare for now I'm
not going to put on any leather or
rubber I know it's something that some
people put on inside I'm going to see
how it works without it now put on the
front jaw washers and the knobs so why
use a Moxon vise so this is the reason
why I wanted to build one so when I was
cutting dovetails I needed to have a
good way to clamp boards vertically and
a Moxon vise is a great tool to do that
I know this is a short piece but you can
have longer pieces going all the way
down so if you're sawing this way in the
end of a board this is an amazing way to
hold a piece vertically like this
another reason why I needed a Moxon vice
was an easy way to clamp angled
materials like tapered legs or something
so there was one time where I was
planing down a tapered leg and I
couldn't find a good way to clamp it
down while planing it so I don't know if
you could see the angle really here this
is just a scrap piece of ash but I just
imagine that this is a table leg there
is an angle to it so because the front
jaw has the ovals in the front but the
jaw couldn't like twist side to side so
you can clamp angled pieces in here
which makes it really easy and the
workpiece holds super tight and then he
could just plane away even though the
pieces angled and not straight so I hope
that this was helpful for some of you
guys out there I'll put a link down to
this hardware kick down below this
wasn't sponsored or anything I just
thought this would be helpful for people
who were looking to get an affordable
quality Moxon vise so thank you to wd-40
for sponsoring this video and thank you
guys so much for watching I'll see you
on the next one today I'm going to build
a Moxon vise
using this kit that you can purchase for
under and that might help with the
clamping pressure goes up my kids on the
bus what time is it
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.