All language subtitles for Bethany Hamilton Unstoppable.WEBRip.Netflix.srt

There's
so many good waves,

I just want to surf 'em all.

♪♪

You
were out surfing

and you were attacked by
a 14-foot tiger shark.

Did you ever,
ever for one moment,

think you wouldn't
go back in the water?

Exciting
news, Bethany Hamilton

gets the wild card.

This is the first time
we've seen Bethany

on the Championship Tour.

The obvious
question is why,

why get back on the board again?

The
Climate Prediction Center

has issued an El Nino advisory.

This
could be a hurricane season

for the record books.

Also
looking more likely

with the latest forecast.

Surf's up and we're
talking extreme.

A solid run of
northwesterly swells

will charge Hawaii starting
on the last day of 2015

and continuing right into
the first several days

of the new year.

Hey, Bethany.

Hey, Kevin, I
really want to tow Jaws.

It looks like there's a
lot of swell on the horizon.

Yeah, this storm is
kind of in that classic spot,

so this next one looks
like maybe 50 foot Hawaiian,

so it looks good.

I think you always have some
wave or experience in mind

that you're hoping to get.

You only actually get that
experience or that wave

probably only a handful of
times in your whole life.

But you're always chasing that.

And she has really
high standards.

Jaws is one of the most
iconic waves in the world.

And it's a wave I've
always dreamed of surfing.

There's nothing else
that I've ever seen

or experienced that even
comes close to that wave.

And that's what
draws us all there.

Year after year,
swell after swell.

When she said she
wanted to do Jaws,

I had no idea what
she wanted to do.

Cool, Jaws, go for it.

Sounds fun.

That's radical.

I surfed out there
two or three times,

that place is so scary.

Yeah, I don't think
she needs to do that.

Oh, my gosh.

When you're in impact zone,

you seriously think
you're gonna die.

The ocean, when
it's at its biggest

and wildest states, there's
really no other playing field

like it in any sport and that's
what drives these people.

They want to push the
boundaries of possibility.

We're tracking swells and
we're just watching clips

of amazing waves and
perfect conditions.

When we saw the perfect swell,

okay we got to go to
Maui like tomorrow.

The anticipation was
really kind of intense.

When you green
light a project,

boom, everything has to go
into play all the moving parts.

The boats, the skis, the
people, everyone's flying in,

you got to make sure everything's
set up right logistically.

It's calculated chaos.

I was working
with DK and Shaun,

and they're like the
top guys out there,

helping with safety
on big gnarly days.

If someone tells you
they're not scared out there,

then they're completely lying.

Everyone's scared, you're
nervous, your level of stress

is through the roof,
you're anxious.

You're trying to stay calm.
You don't want to get

your heart rate up.

I'm like shaking trying
to talk about it.

It starts to hit home,
like we're going out there.

We're gonna go see
this monster of a wave.

It was like a noise
I'd never heard before

coming out of the
bowel of the ocean.

It was like, whoa,
this place is crazy.

It feels and sounds
like an avalanche

when the waves break.

With the helicopters
flying around

and the drones and the
jet skis and the boats

and all of the stuff
that's happening,

it just becomes so busy
and there's so much energy.

And then these giant
sets come through

and people are wiping out.

All this really radical
stuff's happening,

it's like I don't think
there's anywhere in the world

that's so intense.

Sup guys!

- Hey! It's firing.
- Yeah?

It's kind of
slow, but it's good.

- Yeah!
- Let's go Bethany.

We'll go check it out up close.

Okay.

It's literally the most
beautiful wave to see in person.

It's mesmerizing.

But like you almost don't
want to watch it too long

because it's just
such a big scary wave.

You decide to go out there,
you decide to take that wave

and there's
implications in that.

There's a ton of risk.

911,
what's your emergency?

I heard a big scream over
there at the west reef

like a fright scream.

And then this thing came
out, I saw it coming

underneath the water,
he turned about where my

wife is, about that far away

and you could see his tail.

We look
over by West Reef

and they were all going in.

He goes fuck, someone
got bit over there,

we heard screaming
you know

and they all went in.

And we worked our way over
slowly looking for it.

I went in to see her.

She was as white as
a sheet of paper.

I mean she was like
white from loss of blood

and I look down and her arm
is gone and it blew my mind.

Heaviest moment of my life.

Just to see that.

It was pretty heavy, but I
was so thankful she was alive.

Being her positive
self she looks at me

and she goes, "Don't worry
Dad, I'm gonna be okay."

You know?

One of the stories this
morning was that you were

a sure bet to go professional.

That was pretty much my dream.

Yeah, it was really hard
to try to figure out, you know,

what the future held.

Everything that we had been
working toward as a family,

all the successes and a
room full of trophies,

everything we just
saw it all gone,

and, uh,

now what?

So did they tell you
what's ahead for you from here?

I don't know.

My love for surfing started

on the North Shore of
Kauai in Hanalei Bay.

My mom was queen of Hanalei.

She charged and had that passion
for surfing bigger waves.

I'd see her surfing, she'd
be out usually before I was.

I first noticed him because he

had a really nice
Volkswagen van.

That caught my eye.

Everything was designed around
taking care of the family

and having time to surf.

We were just so happy.

For us it was the ultimate dream

to be able to surf
with your kids.

Bethany.

Wave to Daddy.

When she was six or
seven, I would go out

and push her in the waves.

When she caught her
first wave on her own,

it was a breaking point where
she knew she could do it.

I just saw a natural
ability she had.

There's Bethany, Bethany.

Surfing was just
so much fun for her

that she just naturally
got good at it.

I was pushing her and my
brother was pushing her.

We were always out
surfing together.

Here goes Noah.

He got barrel.

When our kids started
surfing, we bought a new camera

and we filmed everything.

And you can rewind and
watch what you just filmed.

We'd watch it
and talk about it

and try to help her improve.

Pedal hard!

It was hard to stay afloat
living out here in Hawaii,

so both my parents
worked two to three jobs.

It was a lot on them.

The memory.

My mom delivered
magazines around the island

which to me was like
the best job ever

because I got to drive
all around the island

and surf all different spots.

Okay, keep on going.
Go up on the pier.

I built independence
and confidence

having my parents trust
me off on my own surfing.

I had confidence
in my ability and

I felt like that internal drive.

By age eight,
I knew I was gonna

be a professional surfer.

I can remember dreaming about
all the most amazing waves

in the world and envisioning
a map in my house

and putting the little pins
on all the different locations

that I wanted to go to.

Watching all my surf
heroes surfing those waves.

And just couldn't
wait to do it myself.

Girls, girls, can
I ask you a few questions?

Yeah sure.

What's your
favorite place to surf?

- Uh, Pine Trees.
- Yeah.

Where's that?
Do you live around here?

Yeah, it's in
Hanalei Bay, Kauai.

When I turned
nine I met Bethany.

We literally drove
everyone crazy, I think.

In the water, out of the water.

We were just rascals.

Her and Alana were so
fun to hang out with.

Roll over.

They were just very adventurous.

We kind of did it all.

And, we were just very athletic.

They both
signed up to swim training

under Dick Oliver.

Go, go, go, go, go!

There's
Dick, his dream

is to take someone
to the Olympics.

2:40, very good.

When they got back into the
water, they were so fired up.

They could out-paddle adults.

Bethany was like
the ringleader.

Whatever she was doing
I just, like, had to keep up.

She was charging
waves at the time.

I was just like, "Oh, my God. I
guess I have to do that too."

But I hated it.

There was no stopping her.

She just liked that adrenaline.

There's my
daughter right there.

Yeah!

Do you
always surf, together?

Do you always surf together?

- Yeah.
- Yeah.

Friendship makes a big
difference when you're surfing.

Yeah.

I was doing a surfing
lesson down near the pier

and two little girls came
out, did laps around me,

catching waves, and
paddling like demons.

Bethany's dad asked if
she could be on the team.

I put her on and then Alana
wanted to be put on the team.

Alana!

Alana and
Bethany, best friends,

so they fed off each other.

I would soak up everything
Coach Russell would give us.

Run the beach, do
drills together, and

I was just thriving
in that environment.

Most people don't like
running to the pier and back

and she'd turn around and
say, "Can I run it twice?"

That's when I knew
she was different.

Set the bar this high,
she'd always double it.

Paddle hard bro!

All the contests
growing up were beach start.

She's in blue.

Fifteen minutes,
top three waves.

That beach start was
like such a big deal.

You'd paddle as hard as
you could just to prove

that you were the
fastest paddler.

Bethany would enter our division
two years younger than me

and would be the
first person out.

There she goes.

I'd be second.

But she was always the first.

Good girl!

Yeah, I remember beating
all the boys. It was fun.

That's the
end of the heat.

Within the first year, she
was winning pretty much

everything she went in.

She's a machine.

Bethany in first place!

It wasn't too
much longer after that,

she got sponsored by Rip Curl.

Being on the Rip Curl Team
is really awesome.

All the girls are nice.

It makes me try harder
'cause I wanna improve

and show them how
good I'm doing.

I don't want to get
kicked off, I want to stay

on the Rip Curl Team.

Our generation of girl surfers

was so strong, we came
in kind of like a force.

The Hawaii boom
of kids was starting

to really come alive.

These super heavyweight
female up and comers.

In
third place, Coco Ho.

In second place,
Alana Blanchard.

And ladies and
gentlemen our champion

in the ten to 12 year
old girls' shortboard,

Bethany Hamilton,
congratulations.

Bethany was the one to beat.

You know, and she,
super competitive.

She had a really great
connection with the ocean

and finding the right waves.

And then when she stood up
on a board, she was flawless.

Smooth and powerful.

How fast she paddled
and how aggressive she was

was really irritating
to some of the girls

because she would've been just
catching any wave she wanted

with those arms.

NSSA Nationals is the
biggest event of the year

for any amateur in
the United States.

It's really where
all the scouts come

from every company to
kind of scope people out.

You're really looking at
that next caliber of surfers

who are right on the
edge of turning pro.

Okay,
here we go, rider up.

Here comes Bethany Hamilton.
Oh nice!

And we're looking at
her going, this kid,

you're something special.

Good scoring ride

for Bethany Hamilton
from Hawaii.

What'd you
get in your heat?

What do you think?

I was pretty sure that

there's nothing
gonna stop Bethany

from becoming World Champ.

Are you concerned
about sharks at all?

Yeah.

How do
you deal with it?

Just pray.

Let's go,
get out of the water!

I watched my
friend's arm get bit off.

It definitely affected me.

After
surviving a shark attack,

she's in the hospital tonight,
she's in pretty rough shape.

Critical condition.

I would
have nightmares and

to this day I'm
scared of sharks.

I'm glad it was
me and no one else out there.

Why's that?

I'd just rather have
it be me than Alana.

'Cause I love her so much.

I didn't know what was
gonna happen with my life

because my best friend's
life is changed.

So I thought mine was gonna
change forever too.

Did you go to the beach yet?

- Yeah.
- Did you surf?

My dad made me.

'Cause he said I have to
get like the therapist guy,

he's like you have to get
back to your normal life.

- So I had to go surfing.
- Alana.

I thought I saw a shark,

and I started crying.

Where'd you go out at?

But it was just a huge turtle.

Officials pulled
everybody out of the water

and closed down the
section of the beach

just for safety's sake.

I didn't surf tunnels for a
long time after that happened.

'Cause I was really
scared, you know?

This was
not a regular shark.

Officials described
it as aggressive.

I told her, "Well, we
could move to Mammoth.

Go snowboarding."

She goes, "No."

As supportive as, like,
say my mom was,

she didn't see the possibility
of me surfing with one arm.

So I also got attacked
by a tiger shark.

Ended up in the same
hospital as Bethany.

Those first few days, you
just have so many questions.

Was it hard
learning again or no?

How to surf?

The kind of thing you're just like--

Like whatever you were doing.

Not
really, like, pretty much,

the things you do, that you
never really think about doing,

the rest of your
life it's adapting,

but it's actually kind
of fun because you learn

how to figure out
new ways of doing it.

- And nobody else.
- And more of a challenge.

Yeah, yeah, and every,

it's pretty satisfying knowing
that you can pull it off,

some people are full limbed
can't even do it.

It just makes your
mind stronger.

I surfed Hanalei this
morning on a longboard,

I tried paddling with one
arm, it's fully possible.

Oh, it is?

Fully possible, yeah.

And then you just have to
do the one-hand pushup.

Watch, your arm's gonna
get so buff and strong.

And you can
stand up with your leg.

Mm-hmm, yeah.

You kind of want to
go surfing already?

Yeah.

Yeah, I remember. Me too.

It's gonna be so much fun
when you are on the first time

yeah, I'm telling you, it's,

it's pretty much the funnest
day of surfing you'll ever have.

Within six days
of losing my arm,

I already had hopes
to surf with one arm.

You know, I didn't know what that
would even look like,

but I wanted to give it a go.

Everything doesn't
happen at once.

It takes patience.

It's all these little pieces
that you sort of build upon.

This part's hard.

And you start building
on these little things

and learn how to adapt to make
your body do these things.

Don't drop it.

I won't drop it.

You don't need to help me.

Oh!

You think you're
gonna surf again?

I think?

I know I'm gonna surf again.

Did you pray?

Dear Lord,

keep me safe and
everyone safe and

let my parents let me go out to
where the real waves are

and then yeah...
Just have fun.

Okay.

Let's do this.

Most had believed
her hopes and dreams

for a superstar surfing
career were gone,

but Bethany was back on
her board four weeks later.

Did you ever, ever for one moment

think you wouldn't
go back in the water?

Um, I think it went through
my head once or twice,

but once things came
clear in my mind,

I knew I'd be back out there.

You got
clear really quickly, didn't you?

Yeah.

I told my dad, I want to do
a surf contest, let's do this.

And my dad's like,
"Yeah, let's do this."

I was all for it.

Half of the struggle
of surfing with one arm

was just getting
through the surf

to be able to go
and catch waves.

I just couldn't even get out
because I couldn't duck dive.

Just waves crashing on
me over and over again.

She was just
getting really beat up

and I was getting
beat up watching it.

That's when I realized,
she couldn't hold on

to her board and
that's where I came up

with the idea for the handle.

This is the secret
to Bethany's handle,

there are leash plugs that go on
the deck of the board,

but we use them as an
adaptation to make her a handle

so she can duck dive.

So Bethany can get
under the white water

or under a set wave
that's coming at her

and come up the back.

There's word on the street,
Bethany's coming to nationals.

When she announced she was
coming back to compete,

we were all jaw-dropped.

I think we all
supported her in a way

that we didn't think she
was gonna come back.

You know, we were all like,
"Hey Bethany, we're here for you,

you don't have to keep going,
you don't have to do this."

I wanted to get back to
normal life and normal routine,

so I had Ben Aipa coach me.
Come up with a strategy.

When she had the accident,

I thought the feeling
she had for surfing,

is not gonna be the same.

There's gonna be fear in it.

But no way man.

Carissa definitely
dominated nationals,

I don't think any of us
had a chance at Lowers.

They were such a
competitive group

and I think she
was driven by that.

We're down at the waterline.

Okay, we talking,
I just look up,

and I look at the people, and
they look so confused, man.

The biggest question
was what's she doing?

And I just told her, turn
around, just turn around

and look back. I'd like
you to see something, okay?

So she turn around,
she look at the people.

When you going in the water,
just catching the wave,

you're gonna throw them off.

And I just told her, "Just
give them something to see."

The moment she paddled out,

everybody on the beach,
was just spellbound.

Nobody could fathom, like,
paddling out with one arm

and even just catching
a wave with one arm

and getting up. Nobody
thought it was possible.

So for all of us, it
was just like this,

you're literally watching, like,
a science experiment.

Alright, taking
off on a good looking left.

Orange, Bethany Hamilton big
snap up top on a sandy one.

That was a good wave,
that was like a 6.5.

Good job, Bethany.

Carissa got knocked
out in the semis.

But in the finals,
there was still

some really good competition.

Bethany Hamilton.

Cuts back.

She just teed off.
Just, boom.

Boom.

Boom.

It was just surreal like,

everybody on the beach
was losing their mind.

She just tore that heat apart

and just obliterated
her competition.

How does it
feel to be a winner?

- Uh, I don't know.
- Yes, you do.

Awesome.

Indescribable.

From the Hawaii
Conference, Bethany Hamilton.

Well, first of all I have
to give thanks to Jesus Christ

'cause he's like my everything.

Without him I don't think I
could be here right now,

and I want to thank
my coach Ben Aipa and

also, I want to
thank all you girls

for like making the
competition funner and harder

and especially Carissa.

I guess thanks.

After winning nationals,
my ambition was to qualify

for the World Tour.

We were gonna
qualify together.

That was our dream.

Qualifying for the
World Tour is one

of the toughest
needles to thread.

You're talking about going to
all these different countries,

competing in all these
different variety of waves.

They call it the grind.

There's a lot of
girls who want it

and will do anything
it takes to get it.

♪♪

♪♪

It was daunting.

Daunting looking
at the conditions

and just looking for
opportunity to advance

through your heat.

The tour is not designed
for people who paddle slow

and you've got to be aggressive.

It was
a lot of beach break,

where, like duck diving

nonstop and especially
with one arm, it was so hard

to just get through
to the line up.

It's hard to go and do that
for eight contests in a row

and six heats in a row if
you want to win the contest,

it's so mentally exhausting.

Bethany
Hamilton made headlines

around the world
when she was attacked

by a 14-foot tiger shark.

She had a lot of
attention around her.

From a young age, she
started doing all this media.

A teenage surfer who
survived a shark attack

threw out the first pitch
before tonight's Yankees game.

Come on
out Bethany, yeah.

She had so many obligations.

I could see her life changing.

I'm very proud to present

this Teen Choice Courage
Award to Bethany Hamilton.

Thank you.

Well, you've written
a wonderful book,

it's called Soul Surfer, this
is a story for all of us,

because we all have challenges
and struggles in our lives.

Bethany Hamilton, one
courageous athlete

pitching in to help children
affected by Hurricane Katrina.

You were in Thailand recently.

The kids were really scared
of the ocean from the Tsunami,

just trying to help them out.

You're going to
the hospital to see

the wounded Iraqi soldiers.

This is an opportunity
to, like, be a light

and be a role model
and she saw that,

but she's still
just a kid herself.

She's not ready for this.

It's been a whirlwind
of a life for you,

awards shows, hanging
out with celebrities,

you like it, it's fun, right?

Yeah, it is.

It took a toll on Bethany.

She didn't like getting
asked the same question.

Why did the shark
get off your arm?

Uh...

Well, I don't know.

I think
the obvious question

for a lot of people is why.

Why get back on
that board again?

What went
through your mind

when all of that took place?

I don't know.

To be on tour, you really
have to focus on one thing.

Oh, shoot.

And she had too
many things going on.

It was the end of the year

and we both were on the
cusp of qualifying or not.

Alana Blanchard
in yellow,

you're now in 3rd place.

Me and Bethany ended
up in the same heat

and it was like really
a weird feeling.

In yellow
Alana Blanchard.

She caught a
wave, like, underneath me,

not being aggressive enough
to keep her off the wave.

She could get
some points on this wave.

Oh, come on Bethany.
Get a wave.

In five, four, three...

Shit.

...two, one.

I ended up winning

and she ended up
losing in that heat.

I just was like, this isn't
how it's supposed to go.

I missed
qualifying by one heat

and it was just the
worst feeling ever.

You worked so hard, ever
since you were eight-years-old

and then you work
so hard with one arm

and it's one heat away.

It's amazing that we could
still keep our friendship,

but we definitely had to
go in different paths.

I just got so
burnt out on losing

and lost that belief in myself.

I was seeing a lot of my
good friends qualifying

and then winning world titles

and me just kind of
getting left behind.

I can't help but imagine,
what I could've accomplished

if I hadn't lost my arm.

Joining me now is
Bethany Hamilton,

her incredible story is told
in the new movie Soul Surfer.

Bethany what a pleasure
to have you here.

I was going on
media tours and speaking events

and my focus was shifting.

I also had a lot of
financial obligations

to make sure I was
making enough money

to keep things afloat.

Surfing wasn't really
enough to hold that up.

I was asking God to help
me through that time.

It was unclear how
my future would be.

When my son,
Timmy got married,

I see this really
big handsome guy,

walking with my mother-in-law,
helping her sit down,

pulling out her chair
and wow, who's this guy?

I didn't even know she
had a relationship going.

Any guy that's
interested in Bethany,

I'm gonna really vet him.

Your natural
instinct is you want

to give this guy the vibe

and kind of have your
guard up as a big brother.

It was hard, you
know, I let it all go.

I was like, this guy's awesome.

She wanted to get married

and I was like, "But you
guys didn't even like

hang out that much yet."

And she's like, "No,
I already know."

Nine months after we met,

we started talking
about marriage.

So it was going fast.

Let him have it!

I thought I knew what I
wanted, until I met Adam.

Will you Adam
have Bethany to be your wife?

I will.

Will you
love her, comfort her,

honor and respect her,
and forsake all others

for her alone, all
the days of your life?

I will.

I knew my life would be
a completely different

than what I was doing
before our marriage.

We're jumping on the
Bethany bandwagon train,

and we're going all in.

How's Bethany doing today?
I'd say she's rockin' it.

We caught up with her
and her new husband.

Today, I'm telling the
story of a sun-dried tomato.

And life's all about
the unexpected.

Next up is going to
be Bethany Hamilton,

now she's got a
lot of fans here.

I've never
done any acting really,

so it's kind of been fun.

I'm actually really enjoying it.

Bethany Hamilton made an
appearance in Encinitas tonight

when a huge crowd of fans
was there to greet her.

The wait was
unbelievable, but a determined

few hundred met their hero.

I've wanted to meet
her for a long time now,

and I want to be a pro
surfer when I get older.

Bethany
Hamilton stopped by

the Ron Jon Surf Shop to meet
fans and sign autographs.

She just makes
everybody inspired

and want to go out
there and surf.

She never gave up.

When we submit
our lives to Christ,

his mercy and love will bring
true fulfillment to our lives.

I never realized how
big a deal Bethany was.

Random people would come up,
they just wanted a picture

and pretty cool that she
can be that role model

to somebody. Not
only little girls,

but these tough looking
guys with beards.

Felt like I had
a lot on my plate

and just so much on
my shoulders alone

and then when we came
together as husband and wife,

we became a team.

You recently
got married,

tell us about your husband.

He's from Kansas.

But he's surfing great
for a Kansas boy.

We were just ready to
conquer things together.

Yeah.

I hope this
challenge is doable.

Nice, nice.

Good job, baby.

Whoa.

Holla.

We started talking about

what was our future
gonna look like

and what are the things that
we are passionate about.

Let's pursue those.

I love
being in the ocean,

it's for sure my happy
place and he knew

that I still had
unfulfilled goals

that I wanted to check
off with my surfing.

I want to support her and
I want to be there for her.

A professional surfing
career doesn't last forever,

so, yeah, let's do this thing.

We, as surfer's,
dream of surfing

these different iconic
waves around the world.

I just love the idea
of pushing myself

in all different types of waves

and being a well-rounded surfer.

In surfing there's
many skill-sets.

To be really good

at every skill-set

is basically the upper echelon

of the sport.

There's only a handful of
men and even fewer women,

who are really
pushing that envelope.

When it comes to
accomplishing dreams and goals

I think, like, there's so
many key ingredients.

Passion, drive,
dedication, commitment,

and support from
people around you.

Bethany reached out
to me to really work

on her aerial game.

The technique of
aerial surfing is one

of the most difficult
things to learn

and doing it with one arm
makes it even more difficult.

I'll put my hand in my pocket.

Okay.

You know what I
mean, so I'm like...

Cruising.

You know what I
mean, it's real.

You're not moving a lot.

When she's turning her
head, she has to do it more

than the average person.

She's making up for that with
her head and her other arm.

A lip line right there.

That's alright.

I was able to just
picture what I wanted to do

on a wave, but like do it
over and over and over again.

Nice.

Much better.

The most
important thing for us

is to find a wave where you
actually have enough speed

and power and--

Yeah.

Bali's a great
place to go to do airs.

Over
the past couple days,

local wind looks generally
favorable through the region

and we should see a couple
days of pretty epic surf.

We'll see you out in the water.

It takes
that certain thing

of understanding
you have a potential

and knowing that
potential inside you.

And wanting to fulfill
it to its maximum.

Most people who are like that
are really hard on themselves.

So annoying.

I can see that stress on her.

I can feel her just
like wanting to succeed

and wanting to, like,
perform super well.

It's just been kind
of rough to be honest.

I haven't really done
what I believe I can do

and it feels really eggy.

It takes a lot
of determination,

strength and willpower

to let go and be
patient with yourself

and go through a
hundred failures

to get that one success.

She sent me a text of her
doing this sick Air 360.

I knew she was very driven
and motivated to do it,

but to text me a week later.

I was blown away.

That feeling of
nailing the gnarliest thing

I've ever done
felt so crazy good.

And just keep
feeling that drive.

After a
slow last few days

in the Southwest Pacific,
things are starting

to roar back to life,
we are monitoring

a strong storm system
that is gonna develop

over the next couple days.

The real kicker with
this storm system

is how close it's
gonna be to Tahiti.

In the history of surfing,

Teahupoo has just been
one of the benchmarks.

It's one of the only
places on the planet

that every single
wave will barrel.

I really wanted to
challenge myself to get better

at my barrel riding.

When I was ten or 12 years old,

I remember very first seeing
footage of Keala Kennelly

surfing Teahupoo and
being so stoked on her

and wanting to emulate
what she's doing

if not be better.

It is incredible to surf
and incredible to watch,

but it has very, very
severe consequences.

Seeing the wipe out
highlights of Teahupoo,

I kind of had a grasp
on what it looked like

and what it could do to people.

I need a transport.

When you see a wave
freight-training down the reef,

it makes your stomach kind
of turn just watching it.

It just has this
unique ability

to just stop every single
surfer in their tracks,

no matter how good they are

and just be mesmerized
by what this wave

is capable of doing.

Adrenaline is
going from head to toe,

just feeling, like, so excited.

Getting barreled--
It's like no other feeling.

The whole ocean is
surrounding you.

I don't think you
can explain it truly

until you're in there.

I was sitting in the
channel on the boat

right over the peak of the wave

and seeing everything
like right there.

Seeing Bethany, like,
get on a wave--

You know I was, like,
holding my breath.

Things
weren't going well.

I think we're, like, trying
to almost force

something good to happen.

Finally, I know it's a good one,

but I definitely let go
of the rope too early.

There
was so much energy

and wanting to score some waves.

We were just on it all the time.

I'm so close to one

of my favorite
waves in the world...

and it's just not working out.

The best kind of barrel,
you're not gonna make it.

You're just not
gonna make it.

But you try anyway.

You're just like--

Whoo!

Yeah, Bethany!

Thank you!

That was sick.

Hey.

After that, I just felt
so weak, like, so exhausted.

All of a sudden, I am
an emotional wreck.

She had suspicions.

My
period's super late.

No, you're
not pregnant.

We got to put the
suspicions behind us,

get the test,

it comes out positive.

Bethany did two other tests

and they all came out positive.

I just didn't
feel ready to be a mom.

A few months after
finding out she's pregnant,

she gets an invitation to surf

in this four women
heat at Pipeline

with Carissa, Tyler
Wright, and Steph Gilmore.

Aloha
and welcome, everybody

to the island of Oahu.

Here we are at the
Banzai Pipeline,

the most dangerous
wave in the world.

Up next, the women
in a specialty heat

will be competing against
each other and nature.

She asked, what are the risks

of surfing Pipeline
while pregnant.

And the risks are there.

A very special entrant

I think is Bethany Hamilton,

looking forward to seeing
what she can do out here.

Oh, definitely, it's been a while

since I've seen Bethany Hamilton
in the water.

She's gonna
relish the opportunity

to come up against
three of the very best.

Nobody knew
that she was pregnant yet.

If you had like an eye for
it, you could almost tell that,

yeah maybe she's showing,
but you know maybe not.

I wanted
to tell Carissa so bad

and I just didn't feel
like I could tell her

because I wasn't telling anyone.

I didn't want to
tell them crying.

I wanted to tell
them with a smile.

This is one
of the most treacherous and,

um, you know, one of the more
waves of consequence

that we have in the world.

Wow, and here she goes,

Bethany Hamilton
takes the first ride.

Oh.

I don't even
know what I was thinking.

I had fears of not being
able to surf as well

or even have the time to surf.

But I also had one arm fears
of just changing his diaper

and holding his
head stable enough

and being a good mom.

Look at this one now.

This is Bethany Hamilton,
a late drop.

Oh.

And she, takes a fall.

I've always
really looked forward

to being a mom one day.

That was, like, one of my
greatest hopes in life.

But then when it
finally came my way,

I was almost like
rejecting that great hope

that I've always had.

I think it was a
unique time for us

for her to realize
that, you know, I'm there for her

to bring her through
any challenges

that this was gonna bring us.

We're gonna figure out a
way to, like, make our lives work

with this kid and still be
able to do the things that we love.

As I started to
see his excitement

and, like, other people's
excitement around me,

I was like wow, this
is a gift from God.

So, we have a little
surprise for you.

Carissa and I were
going to Australia

and we're looking at
our phone and we're like,

"Wait! Bethany's pregnant!"

She's pregnant. Yes.

And we were laughing
because we were like

nothing was slowing her down.

Second
trimester, Bethany

was confident in who she was

and what this pregnancy
was gonna be like.

Once we found out
she was pregnant,

there's gonna
be extra stresses,

there's gonna be
extra loads or tension

on her hips and on her back.

And so I wanted to further
focus our therapies

to make sure her body was able

to handle that extra stress.

I wanted her to keep surfing
as long as she could.

As long as it didn't
cause any discomfort.

She knows her body really well,

so she knows when
something's right or wrong.

My surfing got smoother.

I got better at surfing
while I was pregnant.

The anticipation was
building and building.

It was May 31st
around 11 at night,

I started to go in labor.

In all the chaos and
pain of giving birth,

you forget it all as
soon as Tobias came out.

The start of a new beginning
for the three of us.

New diaper.

On and under.

No crying allowed.

No crying allowed, Tobias.

Oh, spit up.

It's a baby's world.

Seven weeks post-birth
I got invited

to surf in the Lowers Pro.

Putting so many years on
the QS and coming so close

to qualifying to then be in the
situation I was reaching for

was super exciting. I
just couldn't say no.

Okay, okay, okay.

I had three and a half months
before the competition.

My first day getting
back in the ocean,

I just felt so weak
and weird and off.

My body was just thrashed
from giving birth

and going through pregnancy.

You feel really different.

Crying baby.

I surfed like two days in a row

and the third day-- I
felt worse that day

than the day after giving birth.

I had to just go lay down.

The
2015 World Surf League

has arrived at Lower Trestles.

The wildcard Bethany Hamilton
trying to take out

all the contenders in this
year's world title race.

Go Mom.

It was our first trip
traveling with Tobias

and I was full-time nursing him.

I really couldn't be away from
him for more than two hours.

Hi.

You brought the
little man down.

He was still recovering
from colic too at that point,

so he was just kind of
fussy and sometimes he'd eat

and sometimes he wouldn't.

It was so hard.

Yeah, you were hungry, huh?

Welcome to
the Swatch Women's Pro

Stop Number Seven on the Samsung
Galaxy Championship Tour.

I have an hour and a
half when my heat starts.

The vibe there
is very intense.

World
title race is on.

I knew physically
she was ready,

but, like, mentally she had to get
into the right head space.

You remember
how special this wave is

for Bethany, she won a
national title our here,

had the accident losing her
arm, came back to win one.

Learning how to
surf with one arm.

Kiss your boy, for good luck.

You're watching
the Swatch Women's Pro

featuring current world
number one, Courtney Conlogue,

Nikki Van Dijk, and
wildcard Bethany Hamilton.

As we see little
Tobias on screen,

rooting on his mom
in a huge event

here at Lower Trestles.

She just had
her child, June 1st.

- That's only four months ago.
- What?

And here
she is competing.

It's hard to take a
long break like that

and then jump right
back into the jersey.

And all of a sudden
it just started howling,

gnarly offshore winds.

It just rattled me.

With now,
a little opportunity

for the Hawaiian, that
wind really holding her up

on the take-off. Hamilton,
will have to kick out.

And half of the time,

my mind's still on
the beach with Tobias.

And you
can see right now,

Bethany's first heat,
she hasn't settled in

to that potential that we
know she's capable of.

I totally
flailed and it felt horrible.

Come on guys.

Back up.

Back up a little
bit please guys,

everybody this side.

Just
feeling so frustrated...

to blow such an
amazing opportunity.

You can't do something
like that half-heartedly.

Being a guy, I
want to provide,

I want to--

I want to be depended on.

'Cause that's how
I grew up, that's how

everyone I knew grew up.

Hey, Tobias.

Whoa, whoa!

It's definitely
like challenging.

I started out thinking like

okay for this few years or something,
I'm gonna support Bethany

and things will kind
of like, phase out and, um,

like, then I'll get a job.

I think
it'd just be really hard

on us to be separated

so much if he was busy
with his own endeavors.

There's
definitely a balance

that we're trying to
find and are continually.

I couldn't be where
I am today without the way

that he's supported me.

After a
disappointing result

at Lower Trestles,
Bethany Hamilton gets

the wildcard for the Fiji Pro.

I always
just dreamed of Fiji and

thinking like wow, that would
be my dream wave to compete in.

I couldn't let go of
my goals and dreams

for the World Tour.

So finally I'm like
yes, I'm there.

First I wanted to do
a couple of surf trips

to fine tune my
surfing and my fitness.

The more opportunity
you have to perform

and work on your surfing
the better you get.

She, like, buckled down and
trained her butt off.

♪ Since ♪

♪ I was young ♪

♪ I knew I'd find you ♪

♪ But our love ♪

♪ Was a song ♪

♪ Sung by a dying swan ♪

♪ And in the night ♪

♪ You hear me calling ♪

♪ You hear me calling ♪

♪ And in your dreams ♪

♪ You'll see me falling ♪

♪ Falling ♪

♪ Breathe in the light ♪

♪ I'll stay here
in the shadows ♪

♪ Oh ♪

♪ Waiting for a sign ♪

♪ As the tide grows ♪

♪ Higher and higher
and higher ♪

♪ And when the nights
are long ♪

♪ All those stars recall ♪

♪ Your goodbye ♪

♪ Your goodbye ♪

♪ And in the night ♪

♪ You'll hear me calling ♪

♪ You'll hear me calling ♪

♪ And in your dreams ♪

♪ You'll see us falling ♪

♪ Falling ♪

♪ And in the night ♪

♪ You'll hear me calling ♪

♪ You'll hear me calling ♪

♪ And in your dreams ♪

♪ You'll see us falling ♪

♪ Falling ♪

♪ Oh ♪

♪ Oh ♪

♪ Breathe in ♪

♪ The light ♪

♪ And say ♪

♪ Goodbye ♪

♪ Breathe in ♪

♪ The light ♪

♪ And say ♪

♪ Goodbye ♪

Ha!

Whoa!

By the
time I got to Fiji

I was feeling really good.

Fiji is every surfer's
favorite stop on tour.

It's like non-stop.

The waves breaks
out in the middle of a reef,

two miles off the ocean.

Not only is it a great
high performance wave,

but there's a really heavy
barrel when it's big.

Warm water, tropical,
you cannot do better.

I have to admit, of
course I was excited

when I saw that
Bethany got the wildcard,

but I was a little skeptical.

I've seen her in a couple
of the events before

and unfortunately there
aren't that many waves,

it's really hard
for her to compete.

The 2016 World
Surf League Championship Tour

has once again arrived in Fiji.

Live streaming starts now.

Welcome
back to the Fiji Pro,

day one of competition
here Ronnie Blakey

with Ross Williams and Ross,

we've just scored ourselves
one of the best heats

of the first round.

It's epic, you
know, Bethany Hamilton,

one of the most famous
surfers on the planet

up against Tyler that's
wearing the yellow jersey

and then of course
Nikki Van Dijk,

she's right there in the mix,
excited to see this heat.

Still no
waves ridden just yet.

Not a lot of opportunity

in the opening
stages of this heat.

This is a
funky heat right here.

Low scores, not many waves,
so it's gonna just be

a total pressure test here
in the last ten minutes.

Nothing
separating first from third

as Nikki, she makes a run
at the number one position.

Nice looking wall.

Oh man, that
wave was ten times better

than anything we've seen
so far in this heat.

And this heat
has come to a close.

And Tyler Wright
and Bethany Hamilton

will have to fight their
way out of the second round.

That was annoying.

Our heat shut off and
there was no waves to surf.

That's surfing for you.

Want Momma?

Yeah

Yeah

Okay, Bubba, let's
get you some milk.

Let's get you some.

Yeah.

It's like to me this is
really relaxing feeding him.

At this point everyone's
talking about Tyler

shooting for the world title.

I was like, I wonder
what's gonna happen

in this Round Two against Tyler,

you know Tyler's been
on fire all year.

What a
run for Tyler Wright,

to start off the season
number one in the world.

She's having the
best start of her life,

so right out of the gate,

you've got a giant
hurdle to climb.

We're in the same heat again.

So who's
gonna win this heat?

I think Tyler's
gonna take it out,

she's just too sharp.

Strata?

I'm with him.

Yeah, it's
hard to go against Tyler

in the form she's
in at the moment.

I'm like, oh my gosh, Tyler,
I'm totally cheering for you.

You're surfing amazing,
like win the world title.

But I really want to
beat you right now.

Here goes Bethany,
tucking in to the barrel.

Finding some cover.

A clean exit and
looking to set up

once again on the inside here.

She needs an 8.9 to get
herself into the lead.

Here is the
number, it's a nine

for Bethany Hamilton.

I wasn't ready for her
to freaking throw up nines

against, you know, the current
number one in the world.

Well a minute
and 40 seconds to go

and Tyler using priority
needs a 7.44 out of this ride

to take the lead.

Bethany is gonna get herself
on another decent set wave.

Her open faced turns
again looking strong

as she tucks into the barrel
once again on the inside.

And, oh, a bit of
body language there

to finish that ride off,
she feels good, stands tall,

30 seconds remaining.

And the wildcard
Bethany Hamilton

is gonna take the
win and move on through

to Round Three.

And Tyler, for just the
second time in her CT career

is falling out of the
drawer in the second round.

How she's been able to adapt

and be the powerhouse
that she is

is absolutely incredible.

I don't know how she does it.

Bethany was
kind of in a rhythm.

She got this confidence boost

and she seemed ready
to just charge.

We've got the third
round hitting the lineup now

and the first heat is a big one.

Steph Gilmore up
against Johanne Defay

and the wildcard who took
out the Jeep ratings leader

in the second round.
But can she continue

her magic run into the
quarterfinals here?

Next
round, I got six-time

world champ Steph Gilmore.

Stephanie...

Gilmore!

I'm competitive.

I'm not gonna shy
away from that fact.

I can tell you right
now that's why I'm here.

When you're a wildcard,

you're up against
the world's best,

but that's a huge opportunity.

Whether you win or lose it's
kind of the Rocky Balboa thing.

Sometimes you just want to
go the distance with them.

Bethany
Hamilton up at the moment

and she has picked off a wave
that is actually cleaned up

on the inside.

And she sticks that float
right on the end section,

so shallow just there.

That was pretty
amazing right there from Bethany,

again so much effort.

I was kind of like, okay,
I need to actually focus here

and do everything I can
to try and beat her.

Six-time world
champ Steph Gilmore.

She has put together
some of the best heats

this year, but here she goes.

An 8.6 so she is
now in second spot.

This is your Fiji Pro
wildcard Bethany Hamilton

leading this heat really
feeling confident now

and on the attack.

Man, Bethany just
handing it to the top seeds.

She's surfing against
the world's best

and she's blowing them out.

Of course it's gonna be
a freakin' home run story.

Tonight, she is wowing
the world all over again.

For her to take
down two world champs,

the current world champ

and a six-time world
champ is pretty rad.

We were hooting and hollering
and jumping up and down.

We were pretty much screaming.

I'm sure the neighbors heard us.

I was at a restaurant
and I was screaming,

I mean it was like
Super Bowl Sunday to me.

This is
bigger than sports.

It really is inspiring.

I think I'm just a
reminder for the young girls

that like hey, you can do it
if you set your mind to it.

Now Hamilton rolls in,

stomps the takeoff beautifully.

It was one of
the best watched shows

we've ever had.

Hamilton flies
away on the inside corner,

ton of variety, exploding
on her big points.

And we're gonna close out
this first quarter-final heat

with the wildcard from
Hawaii absolutely dominating

out here at Cloudbreak.

I made it.

Hi, you.

Here you go.

I would love to win this event

and I don't want to think
about how stoked I am

to be in the semis,
'cause I want to win.

The craziest part for me

is seeing her here
in Fiji as a mom

and multitasking between heats,

like holding Tobias and
making it all happen

and keeping things
organized and focused.

Which is so cool for
all the girls on tour,

especially me, I was like hey,

I'm gonna wait
until my career's over

and then have kids, but
you know it's really cool

to see hey you can do both.

All the best out there.

Thank you.

Bethany
now 26 years of age.

Competing in the top stage
now for the second time

in the last two seasons.
We saw her at Lowers,

but now her best
result in the making.

She's all the
way into the semifinals.

Upset some huge
names along the way.

I just get
into that heat, like, so excited,

but I just have no rhythm.
Nothing goes my way.

I'm like trying to
turn the heat around

and it's just not happening.

As we
close this one out.

Johanne Defay celebrates a big
win to move on to the final

and we celebrate an amazing
wildcard performance

from Bethany Hamilton
from Kauai.

Johanne went
on to win the event,

so at least I went
down to number one.

Good surfing, Bethany.

Bethany showing people
and reminding people

what she's capable of and what
she's doing sends a message.

Regardless of whether
she wins or not.

A little congrats
to Bethany Hamilton.

Shaking up the Jeep leaderboard.

Fiji was Bethany's
best result in a CT

and I was so proud of her.

She was just on that level
of the best in the world

and it was just cool
to see it all come out.

There's just so much, so
much emotion just talking

about it because I'm
extremely happy for her

and it's just, yeah,
it's incredible.

After Fiji I
had been nominated

for an ESPY Award
and I got so excited

I was like, oh best female
action sports athlete.

Then I found out
that I was nominated

for best disabled athlete.

According to E! News 26
year old professional surfer

Bethany Hamilton has
withdrawn her nomination

for best female athlete
with a disability.

To place me in a
disabled category

just didn't really
seem fitting at all.

I really think
the word disabled,

has a negative ring to it.

I really like the word
adaptive much better

because it's a way
of getting around

your physical ailments
and using your mind

to figure out how to get
something accomplished.

Being often
called Soul Surfer,

Shark Girl,

disabled,

all these different names
for me always kind of felt

like being put into this box.

You want to tell us
about your dream then?

It like came from behind me

and it was like biting my belly.

Biting your belly?

Like my legs were in it and

it was biting my belly
and I was holding

the lower jaw from
coming into this way.

And then I woke up.

Was it scary?

Nuh-uh.

Come on,
honey, tell the truth.

It was not fun.

It wasn't fun?

It just wasn't scary.

I think of all the
struggles and pains

that I've faced and
gone through and how

really it's God who's
gotten me through all that.

But yeah, at the same time,
God gave me this passion

to surf and it wasn't like that
passion had been taken too.

My life could've
looked a lot different

after losing my arm
and I could've lived

a simple, quiet life

but I still wanted to surf.

- Go Bethany.
- Yeah!

I think that time
has come for us,

when she goes and
surfs crazy waves,

I kind of just let her
go for that nowadays.

Her journey is not what all
her friends' journeys are.

She's in rare air.

She's in a place
that no one's been.

It was super crowded.

Chaos everywhere.

The sets were a
solid 60 foot faces.

You can't predict anything,

so we had ambulances
on call, ready to go.

We let the fire
station, all lifeguards

know we're going out.

You just got to be
ready for anything.

It was very intense not
knowing what to expect.

Still getting
some westerlies coming

your way, two more waves.

Here comes a set.

Great, get ready.

She's up.

- Let's go.
- Oh, my God.

Oh, my God.

Give me five boy.

That was sick.

I mean I never thought
I'd ever see this.

I mean, this is beyond.

Nice smile.

Good warm up!

- Yeah!
- Yeah.

How was that?

It was so amazing.

I like that I'm
alive too, I didn't--

I feel like I need to
get pounded out there.

You never even
pulled the cord.

That's crazy.

With tow surfing,
all the credit goes

to the driver that pulls you in.

Like yeah, you rode that wave,

and cool it was the
biggest wave ever,

but your driver
got you that wave.

She wanted to
paddle into Jaws.

But like, okay.

Paddle surfing,
it's all about you

and your knowledge and
all the preparation

that you've done in your life

to be where you
are in that moment.

The set came out of nowhere.

She went over the falls

getting super annihilated,

the board ended up
puller her back.

She kept getting pushed
in, pushed in, pushed in.

Everything's moving so quickly.

You got to get her before
she goes to the rocks.

All good,
we got her, she's on the sled.

Copy that.

She's okay,
smiling, all good.

Even though she just got
a 18 footer on the head,

she came up smiling

and I was like, you're gnarly.

I'm thinking like,
okay, maybe we're done.

Because that was the
most intense thing ever,

you're like I would've
been calling it quits,

I'm done, I just got licked.

After that whole situation,
she just paddled straight out

and just sent it.

I've heard people comment

about that it would be so
hard with one arm.

That comment was
sticking in my brain.

I don't want that to be
my reason for not trying.

The ocean is so much for me.

It's my passion and my love,

but also my place of
healing and reflection.

And,

somewhere where I can
just be me.

♪ You're broken down
and tired ♪

♪ Of living life on
a merry-go-round ♪

♪ And you can't
find the fighter ♪

♪ But I see it in you so
we gonna walk it out and ♪

♪ Move ♪

♪ Mountains ♪

♪ We gonna walk it out and ♪

♪ Move ♪

♪ Mountains ♪

♪ And I'll rise up ♪

♪ I'll rise like the day ♪

♪ I'll rise up ♪

♪ I'll rise unafraid ♪

♪ I'll rise up ♪

♪ And I'll do it a
thousand times again ♪

♪ And I'll rise up ♪

♪ High like the waves ♪

♪ I'll rise up ♪

♪ In spite of the ache ♪

♪ I'll rise up ♪

♪ And I'll do it a
thousands times again ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪ When the silence
isn't quiet ♪

♪ And it feels like it's
getting hard to breathe ♪

♪ And I know you
feel like dying ♪

♪ But I promise we'll take
the world to its feet ♪

These petals can resemble
different things in our lives.

I think it can resemble,
the loss of our limb,

it can resemble family pain.

It can resemble
eating disorders.

Oh, we lost another pedal.

It's still so beautiful.

And so are we.

I believe this is how God sees
each and every one of you.

And at the end of the day,
like, life's gonna continue

to have struggles and pain,

but knowing Christ, we
have an amazing future.

♪ For you ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪ All we need ♪

♪ All we need is hope ♪

♪ And for that we
have each other ♪

♪ And for that we
have each other ♪

♪ And we will rise ♪

♪ We will rise ♪

♪ We'll rise, oh oh ♪

♪ We'll rise ♪

♪ I'll rise up ♪

♪ Rise like the day ♪

♪ I'll rise up ♪

♪ In spite of the ache ♪

♪ I will rise a
thousands times again ♪

♪ And we'll rise up ♪

♪ Rise like the waves ♪

♪ We'll rise up ♪

♪ In spite of the ache ♪

♪ We'll rise up ♪

♪ And we'll do it a
thousands times again ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪ For you ♪

♪♪

- Yeah.
- Alright.

Unstoppable Me.

"Makana the lion
loves to have fun."

"In the
ocean and under the sun."

"And what this
lion loves most of all,

is riding the waves,
both big and small."

"How can a lion
surf, you may say."

"By practicing
hard, day after day."

"Crush.

The big wave, swallows her up.

Flipping and tumbling,
she's had quite enough.

Discouraged and scared,
she runs back to shore."

"Makana does
not want to surf anymore."

"But then Mr. Turtle
has something to say.

Remember we all
fall along the way.

You need to get up.

You need to be brave.

Go out there again
and catch a new wave."

"The great wave she's
searched for is finally here.

It's big and it's strong
and she has no fear."

"From that day forward,
she told everyone

when fears and doubts
start to come your way..."

"Be unstoppable,

that's what Makana would say."