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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:12,074 2 00:00:36,480 --> 00:00:40,480 The polar regions are more hostile to life than any other part of the Earth. 3 00:00:46,080 --> 00:00:50,520 Human beings have little natural protection against the cold, 4 00:00:52,720 --> 00:00:55,519 so why, for thousands of years, 5 00:00:55,520 --> 00:00:58,320 have we endured the hardships that come from living here? 6 00:01:00,320 --> 00:01:02,839 And what keeps us coming back today, 7 00:01:02,840 --> 00:01:05,440 to the farthest extremes of our planet? 8 00:01:23,040 --> 00:01:27,240 Winter in the most northerly town on Earth, Longyearbyen. 9 00:01:29,200 --> 00:01:32,920 Here, for three months of the year, the sun never rises. 10 00:01:35,720 --> 00:01:39,759 Only the full moon, which never sets as far north as this, 11 00:01:39,760 --> 00:01:42,160 sheds any light into the darkness. 12 00:01:56,000 --> 00:01:58,479 This town was built here in Svalbard, 13 00:01:58,480 --> 00:02:02,800 only 700 miles from the North Pole, to support a mine. 14 00:02:04,520 --> 00:02:07,760 The Arctic is rich in coal, oil and minerals. 15 00:02:14,800 --> 00:02:17,180 In Siberia, the Russian Arctic, the mineral 16 00:02:17,181 --> 00:02:19,560 wealth has given rise to large cities. 17 00:02:25,720 --> 00:02:29,360 This is Norilsk, the coldest city on Earth. 18 00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:38,279 Temperatures regularly drop to below minus 50 degrees Centigrade. 19 00:02:38,280 --> 00:02:40,940 Fuel freezes in the tanks of the trucks, and 20 00:02:40,941 --> 00:02:43,600 has to be melted in a rather alarming way. 21 00:02:50,160 --> 00:02:53,720 Ships are frozen into the rivers for nine months of the year. 22 00:02:55,520 --> 00:02:58,159 The ice must be cut away from their hulls 23 00:02:58,160 --> 00:03:02,760 because steel becomes brittle and vulnerable to the thickening ice. 24 00:03:05,600 --> 00:03:08,780 Like all Arctic cities, Norilsk depends on a 25 00:03:08,781 --> 00:03:11,960 power plant which heats everybody's home. 26 00:03:13,000 --> 00:03:18,199 Waste heat from the plant even keeps a lake ice-free all winter. 27 00:03:18,200 --> 00:03:21,340 Even at air temperatures of minus 50, the 28 00:03:21,341 --> 00:03:24,480 Norilsk Walrus Club come here every day. 29 00:03:39,720 --> 00:03:44,439 There is evidence that a dip in cold water is good for the immune system, 30 00:03:44,440 --> 00:03:47,319 but when the water is a degree above freezing, 31 00:03:47,320 --> 00:03:51,120 it's hard to imagine that the benefits could outweigh the pain. 32 00:04:05,160 --> 00:04:08,300 Today's Arctic city dwellers can lead an 33 00:04:08,301 --> 00:04:11,440 almost normal existence thanks to technology. 34 00:04:12,600 --> 00:04:17,960 But towns and cities are very recent arrivals in the polar landscape. 35 00:04:20,360 --> 00:04:24,279 The polar regions are the least populated part of our planet. 36 00:04:24,280 --> 00:04:28,640 Most of the Arctic remains empty of human beings. 37 00:04:32,800 --> 00:04:37,200 In the north, the Pole itself is covered by a freezing ocean. 38 00:04:39,960 --> 00:04:44,400 Around it lie vast lands, of which Siberia is the largest and coldest. 39 00:04:59,840 --> 00:05:03,759 Human beings first ventured onto the great plains of Siberia, 40 00:05:03,760 --> 00:05:07,880 the tundra, thousands of years ago, and some live here still. 41 00:05:17,960 --> 00:05:22,839 The Dolgan are one of the few tribes who still live in much the same way 42 00:05:22,840 --> 00:05:25,200 as those first Arctic pioneers. 43 00:05:34,000 --> 00:05:35,919 They are reindeer people. 44 00:05:35,920 --> 00:05:41,879 Reindeer are one of few animals that can endure these bitterly cold conditions, 45 00:05:41,880 --> 00:05:45,960 scraping a living by nibbling tiny plants that survive beneath the snow. 46 00:05:50,800 --> 00:05:53,479 Nobody has ever totally tamed reindeer, 47 00:05:53,480 --> 00:05:57,239 but today's animals are docile enough to allow the Dolgan 48 00:05:57,240 --> 00:06:01,440 to drive them across the tundra in an everlasting search for their food. 49 00:06:19,320 --> 00:06:24,720 This is a typical Dolgan village, home to just two extended families. 50 00:06:36,600 --> 00:06:40,599 Here, in the coldest part of Arctic, the only way to get water 51 00:06:40,600 --> 00:06:44,520 for nine months of the year is to melt ice from the frozen rivers. 52 00:06:50,760 --> 00:06:54,679 At least there's no problem preventing food from decay. 53 00:06:54,680 --> 00:06:56,880 Outside is one big deep-freeze. 54 00:07:00,640 --> 00:07:03,159 Survival is only possible because of reindeer fur. 55 00:07:03,160 --> 00:07:06,439 It makes wonderfully warm clothing, 56 00:07:06,440 --> 00:07:08,840 though small children still have to be sewn into 57 00:07:08,841 --> 00:07:11,240 their clothes to prevent instant frostbite. 58 00:07:14,400 --> 00:07:18,480 The Dolgan even use reindeer fur to insulate their huts. 59 00:07:21,520 --> 00:07:25,280 This is living at its most communal. 60 00:07:26,440 --> 00:07:29,240 Good relations with the in-laws are essential. 61 00:07:31,520 --> 00:07:34,320 Reindeer are so valuable that the people 62 00:07:34,321 --> 00:07:37,119 only eat them if they have no other choice. 63 00:07:37,120 --> 00:07:40,920 Their favourite food is raw fish from the frozen rivers. 64 00:07:44,000 --> 00:07:46,740 Every week or so, these families have to travel 65 00:07:46,741 --> 00:07:49,480 to find new feeding grounds for their herds. 66 00:07:52,360 --> 00:07:55,359 First, they round up their strongest animals with lassoes, 67 00:07:55,360 --> 00:07:57,860 a skill that their ancestors brought with 68 00:07:57,861 --> 00:08:00,360 them when they came north from Central Asia. 69 00:08:08,160 --> 00:08:11,480 And then, literally, they move house. 70 00:08:28,200 --> 00:08:31,799 A whole Dolgan village can move on in just a few hours. 71 00:08:31,800 --> 00:08:37,440 Over the year, they travel hundreds of miles like this across the vast tundra. 72 00:08:58,200 --> 00:09:02,479 It was the herds of reindeer, wandering over the lands of the Arctic, 73 00:09:02,480 --> 00:09:04,799 that brought the first Dolgan here. 74 00:09:04,800 --> 00:09:09,319 Other people, however, took on an even greater challenge. 75 00:09:09,320 --> 00:09:13,680 They left the land and looked for their food out on the frozen sea. 76 00:09:20,960 --> 00:09:26,080 Here in the shifting world of the sea ice, they found sea mammals. 77 00:10:00,240 --> 00:10:02,940 Pasha leads a group of Inuit men in Chukotka, 78 00:10:02,941 --> 00:10:05,640 the North Eastern corner of Russia. 79 00:10:08,720 --> 00:10:12,239 The men have travelled many hours from home in the bitter cold, 80 00:10:12,240 --> 00:10:14,600 fighting their way through a dangerous maze. 81 00:10:19,400 --> 00:10:24,160 These hundred tonne ice floes could crush their small boats like eggshells. 82 00:10:40,400 --> 00:10:45,560 The men have big families, and this is the only way they have of feeding them. 83 00:10:49,040 --> 00:10:53,000 Pasha is looking for the puffs of steamy air produced by their quarry. 84 00:10:54,560 --> 00:10:57,080 An animal that is bigger than many Arctic whales. 85 00:11:04,760 --> 00:11:07,480 A two tonne seal with formidable tusks. 86 00:11:13,800 --> 00:11:15,439 A walrus. 87 00:11:15,440 --> 00:11:19,480 It's heading for open water. They must reach it before it dives. 88 00:11:25,360 --> 00:11:28,440 An angry walrus could easily overturn the boats. 89 00:11:36,480 --> 00:11:39,759 The harpoon sticks firmly in the walrus's thick layer of blubber, 90 00:11:39,760 --> 00:11:43,000 and floats attached to it prevent the animal from diving. 91 00:12:00,920 --> 00:12:05,600 Pasha wants to kill quickly with a single clean shot. 92 00:12:18,280 --> 00:12:21,220 The hunters are exhausted after a long day, 93 00:12:21,221 --> 00:12:24,160 but they still have a lot more work to do. 94 00:12:26,120 --> 00:12:30,880 This enormous prize will feed everyone's family for weeks. 95 00:12:36,640 --> 00:12:40,880 It will take many hours to butcher. Nothing will go to waste. 96 00:12:49,320 --> 00:12:52,760 The meat is parcelled up in bags made of the animal's skin. 97 00:12:59,720 --> 00:13:02,520 It's midnight, but the sun is still up. 98 00:13:03,680 --> 00:13:05,480 Summer is almost here. 99 00:13:11,880 --> 00:13:15,079 This far north, the seasons change fast, 100 00:13:15,080 --> 00:13:19,840 the sun is rising higher and growing warmer with each passing day. 101 00:13:38,200 --> 00:13:42,239 The transformation from winter to summer is so dramatic 102 00:13:42,240 --> 00:13:45,720 that it dominates the lives of all who live here. 103 00:13:48,600 --> 00:13:51,799 The ice around the coast has almost disappeared, 104 00:13:51,800 --> 00:13:56,280 and gone are the seals and walrus that Pasha and his men relied on. 105 00:13:58,680 --> 00:14:01,560 They set off on another search for food. 106 00:14:07,280 --> 00:14:10,120 Their destination is an island in the bay. 107 00:14:17,400 --> 00:14:20,359 Their walrus skin boat is an ancient design, 108 00:14:20,360 --> 00:14:24,360 light enough to carry high up the beach so it doesn't drift away. 109 00:14:36,280 --> 00:14:39,639 Once again, the men will have to work as a team, 110 00:14:39,640 --> 00:14:43,360 but one of them will be taking very serious risks. 111 00:14:48,600 --> 00:14:53,919 The lightest man in the group, Kolya, is also the oldest. 112 00:14:53,920 --> 00:14:56,560 He will trust his life to a length of old 113 00:14:56,561 --> 00:14:59,200 nylon rope and the strength of his friends. 114 00:15:15,160 --> 00:15:20,439 These 100 metre high cliffs are home to thousands of guillemots, 115 00:15:20,440 --> 00:15:22,480 and Kolya is after their eggs. 116 00:15:27,320 --> 00:15:30,600 He relies on the men above to lower him to the right place. 117 00:15:34,440 --> 00:15:38,519 Kolya is tough but his stress is obvious. 118 00:15:45,640 --> 00:15:48,279 The men lower Kolya down to the bottom of the cliff, 119 00:15:48,280 --> 00:15:51,240 and from there, he works his way back up the crumbling rock face. 120 00:16:08,800 --> 00:16:09,880 Stop! 121 00:16:23,600 --> 00:16:26,639 This mission will produce no more than about 50 eggs, 122 00:16:26,640 --> 00:16:29,920 but at least there's no need to carry a packed lunch. 123 00:16:44,680 --> 00:16:49,160 Over the years, many men have fallen to their deaths collecting seabird eggs. 124 00:16:51,200 --> 00:16:53,560 This is truly dangerous work. 125 00:17:04,960 --> 00:17:07,919 These Arctic peoples can't grow crops. 126 00:17:07,920 --> 00:17:12,159 The frozen ground never thaws to allow them to do so. 127 00:17:12,160 --> 00:17:16,519 They rely on animals for their food so the chance to collect a few 128 00:17:16,520 --> 00:17:20,760 dozen eggs has to be taken, even if it means risking your life. 129 00:17:37,320 --> 00:17:42,159 The change of season has transformed the Arctic's coastline 130 00:17:42,160 --> 00:17:44,640 and inland, the difference is just as extreme. 131 00:17:49,360 --> 00:17:52,080 July temperatures on the tundra can be 132 00:17:52,081 --> 00:17:54,800 surprisingly high, over 30 degrees centigrade. 133 00:17:58,920 --> 00:18:02,279 Reindeer now move not just to find fresh pasture, 134 00:18:02,280 --> 00:18:06,280 but also to avoid the summer swarms of blood sucking flies. 135 00:18:08,840 --> 00:18:13,680 To keep their animals healthy, the local herders are driving them to the sea. 136 00:18:16,040 --> 00:18:20,719 The cooler conditions on the coast bring relief to the herds 137 00:18:20,720 --> 00:18:23,280 and the chance, every year, for different tribes to meet. 138 00:18:26,720 --> 00:18:29,180 Pasha and his hunters live close by. 139 00:18:29,181 --> 00:18:31,640 They've had word of the herders' arrival. 140 00:18:37,640 --> 00:18:42,439 The hunters' cargo is highly prized for the winter ahead, 141 00:18:42,440 --> 00:18:44,840 fat-rich walrus meat that's been fermenting 142 00:18:44,841 --> 00:18:47,240 in the skin bags for two months. 143 00:18:49,160 --> 00:18:53,840 Today will see an exchange that has taken place every summer for centuries. 144 00:18:55,360 --> 00:18:59,359 The herders barter reindeer skins for walrus meat. 145 00:18:59,360 --> 00:19:04,920 Pooling their resources has helped these communities to survive for so long. 146 00:19:10,480 --> 00:19:15,160 A fry-up of guillemot eggs is all the better when shared with old friends. 147 00:19:18,400 --> 00:19:22,999 Summer brings a brief chance for isolated peoples to meet. 148 00:19:23,000 --> 00:19:26,839 This is an opportunity to exchange news, arrange weddings, 149 00:19:26,840 --> 00:19:29,799 and tell the latest jokes. 150 00:19:38,760 --> 00:19:41,639 By August, the summer is over. 151 00:19:41,640 --> 00:19:45,519 Winter arrives only too swiftly, but the peoples of the Arctic, 152 00:19:45,520 --> 00:19:49,559 who came here originally to hunt, have devised ways to deal with 153 00:19:49,560 --> 00:19:53,280 the hostile and changing conditions that have stood the test of time. 154 00:19:56,400 --> 00:19:59,080 Today, there's a new draw to the Arctic. 155 00:20:06,600 --> 00:20:09,560 This is Greenland, a territory of Denmark now 156 00:20:09,561 --> 00:20:12,520 known to be rich in oil and precious metals. 157 00:20:24,640 --> 00:20:28,360 This sled team is part of the Danish Special Forces. 158 00:20:30,320 --> 00:20:33,759 They're on one of the world's toughest journeys, a 2,000 mile patrol 159 00:20:33,760 --> 00:20:37,640 to maintain Denmark's claim to this valuable wilderness. 160 00:20:42,200 --> 00:20:45,180 But the patrol's mission is only possible with 161 00:20:45,181 --> 00:20:48,160 the help of man's oldest Arctic companion. 162 00:20:55,840 --> 00:20:58,320 Rasmus and Roland have spent the summer months training 163 00:20:58,321 --> 00:21:02,079 and getting to know their team of Greenland huskies. 164 00:21:02,080 --> 00:21:06,279 They need to have a very close bond with every single dog. 165 00:21:06,280 --> 00:21:10,079 This is Roger and Armstrong, 166 00:21:10,080 --> 00:21:15,160 actually the oldest dog in the whole patrol, but he's still going strong. 167 00:21:17,920 --> 00:21:21,799 The men are totally dependent on the stamina of their dogs, 168 00:21:21,800 --> 00:21:26,400 which will keep on running all through the bitter cold of the winter. 169 00:21:31,680 --> 00:21:36,200 This is the last time the team will see the sun for two months. 170 00:21:41,120 --> 00:21:43,839 The most intelligent dogs always lead, 171 00:21:43,840 --> 00:21:48,080 choosing the safest route, feeling for hidden crevasses and thin ice. 172 00:21:58,640 --> 00:22:03,199 This is one of six teams that patrol the whole of northeast Greenland, 173 00:22:03,200 --> 00:22:05,980 the only people in an empty wilderness that is 174 00:22:05,981 --> 00:22:08,760 larger than France and Great Britain combined. 175 00:22:12,880 --> 00:22:17,359 Conditions here are too extreme for current mining technology, 176 00:22:17,360 --> 00:22:21,319 but some day, ways will be found of digging out the huge mineral treasures 177 00:22:21,320 --> 00:22:23,560 that lie hidden within these mountains. 178 00:22:26,280 --> 00:22:32,080 The patrol secures Denmark's claim to do so simply by being here. 179 00:22:43,480 --> 00:22:45,880 But it's not the prospect of getting rich 180 00:22:45,881 --> 00:22:48,279 that makes men sign up for this patrol, 181 00:22:48,280 --> 00:22:50,720 it's the chance for the journey of a lifetime. 182 00:22:51,760 --> 00:22:54,540 The team travel over the ice for six 183 00:22:54,541 --> 00:22:57,320 months, covering up to 40 miles in a day. 184 00:23:01,240 --> 00:23:04,760 Friendship and teamwork are essential if they're to succeed. 185 00:23:06,760 --> 00:23:11,399 Their dogs can sleep outside no matter how cold it gets. 186 00:23:11,400 --> 00:23:14,800 Rasmus and Roland have a nice cosy tent. 187 00:23:18,920 --> 00:23:22,359 They have a few modern conveniences, including a radio, 188 00:23:22,360 --> 00:23:26,679 with which they report their position back to headquarters in Denmark 189 00:23:26,680 --> 00:23:28,720 and catch up on the latest news. 190 00:23:32,520 --> 00:23:34,759 Right now it's the section of money, 191 00:23:34,760 --> 00:23:39,519 what's new in the economy in Denmark, the financial crisis 192 00:23:39,520 --> 00:23:43,000 and all the other things that we actually don't care about out here. 193 00:23:44,480 --> 00:23:46,960 If you can cope with the conditions, then 194 00:23:46,961 --> 00:23:49,439 winter in the Arctic can be magical, 195 00:23:49,440 --> 00:23:53,640 especially when the greatest light show on Earth is overhead. 196 00:24:03,280 --> 00:24:06,959 The first humans in the Arctic believed the Northern Lights, 197 00:24:06,960 --> 00:24:10,799 or aurora borealis, were dancing spirits. 198 00:24:10,800 --> 00:24:13,740 Now we know the lights are caused by electrically 199 00:24:13,741 --> 00:24:16,679 charged particles streaming from the sun, 200 00:24:16,680 --> 00:24:20,040 attracted by the magnetic pull of the earth's poles. 201 00:24:32,760 --> 00:24:37,239 A big aurora storm contains enough energy to knock out satellite 202 00:24:37,240 --> 00:24:41,639 communications and power supplies across the northern hemisphere, 203 00:24:41,640 --> 00:24:45,000 so understanding the aurora is vital. 204 00:24:50,880 --> 00:24:54,160 In Alaska, rockets are used to study the Lights. 205 00:24:56,680 --> 00:25:00,159 A hundred miles up, at the edge of outer space, the rockets 206 00:25:00,160 --> 00:25:03,800 release a cloud of glowing smoke that's visible from earth. 207 00:25:08,920 --> 00:25:13,160 The smoke is blown by fierce winds which are generated by the aurora. 208 00:25:17,120 --> 00:25:20,919 Mapping the movement of the smoke helps scientists to understand 209 00:25:20,920 --> 00:25:24,800 how this unearthly spectacle affects our atmosphere. 210 00:25:45,800 --> 00:25:50,879 They constantly monitor the aurora to help protect us 211 00:25:50,880 --> 00:25:54,039 from its effects, so the rest of us can simply enjoy the magic, 212 00:25:54,040 --> 00:25:58,000 just as the Arctic's first people must have done, thousands of years ago. 213 00:26:13,880 --> 00:26:16,599 For all the many peoples of the Arctic, 214 00:26:16,600 --> 00:26:19,240 the aurora is a reminder of the sun's 215 00:26:19,241 --> 00:26:21,880 presence throughout the dark days of winter. 216 00:26:26,520 --> 00:26:29,399 But when the sun is below the horizon in the north, 217 00:26:29,400 --> 00:26:32,200 it's above it at the southern end of our planet. 218 00:26:35,480 --> 00:26:38,240 Here, humanity's history has been very different. 219 00:26:43,960 --> 00:26:47,399 Antarctica is far colder than the Arctic, 220 00:26:47,400 --> 00:26:52,120 and 99% of its land is permanently blanketed by ice. 221 00:26:53,920 --> 00:26:57,439 Antarctica is so utterly remote 222 00:26:57,440 --> 00:27:00,120 and inhospitable that no people ever settled here. 223 00:27:03,680 --> 00:27:07,279 It was only 200 years ago that the first human beings 224 00:27:07,280 --> 00:27:09,800 even glimpsed the vast continent. 225 00:27:17,520 --> 00:27:20,719 The first people who crossed the Southern Ocean did 226 00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:24,719 so for the same reason that the first people went to the Arctic Ocean, 227 00:27:24,720 --> 00:27:27,040 to hunt sea mammals. 228 00:27:39,560 --> 00:27:43,719 The populations of whales and seals are only now beginning to 229 00:27:43,720 --> 00:27:47,360 recover from 150 years of intensive hunting. 230 00:28:02,720 --> 00:28:05,580 But none of those hunters ever tried to venture into 231 00:28:05,581 --> 00:28:08,440 the frigid interior of the Antarctic continent. 232 00:28:10,440 --> 00:28:15,600 The first successful attempt to do that was made only a hundred years ago. 233 00:28:17,800 --> 00:28:20,400 This hut was the base for one of the most 234 00:28:20,401 --> 00:28:23,000 famous expeditions in polar history. 235 00:28:29,840 --> 00:28:34,319 It was from here in 1911 that Captain Scott and his team 236 00:28:34,320 --> 00:28:38,760 launched their attempt to be the first people to reach the South Pole. 237 00:28:43,200 --> 00:28:45,799 The cold, dry conditions have preserved the interior 238 00:28:45,800 --> 00:28:50,280 of the hut almost exactly as the expedition members left it. 239 00:28:55,920 --> 00:28:58,800 Expedition photographer Herbert Ponting 240 00:28:58,801 --> 00:29:01,680 captured the spirit of the age of exploration. 241 00:29:06,760 --> 00:29:11,280 These first explorers borrowed the techniques of the Arctic peoples. 242 00:29:12,520 --> 00:29:17,840 They wore fur gloves and boots and burned seal blubber to keep warm. 243 00:29:19,920 --> 00:29:24,200 They built sleds based on a traditional Inuit design. 244 00:29:30,040 --> 00:29:33,880 They even made their sleeping bags from reindeer hide. 245 00:29:40,000 --> 00:29:45,639 Scott and his men sought the glory of discovery in an untouched wilderness, 246 00:29:45,640 --> 00:29:48,319 and died in the attempt. 247 00:29:48,320 --> 00:29:52,079 But he, and those who followed him, were the first to reveal 248 00:29:52,080 --> 00:29:55,240 the splendour of Antarctica to the rest of the world. 249 00:30:03,400 --> 00:30:07,679 The lure of adventure still draws intrepid travellers today. 250 00:30:07,680 --> 00:30:10,159 Like the first explorers, 251 00:30:10,160 --> 00:30:15,279 most modern visitors come during the brief summer when the cold relents 252 00:30:15,280 --> 00:30:20,599 enough for the toughest icebreakers to reach the edge of the continent, 253 00:30:20,600 --> 00:30:23,080 but most still need a helicopter to go further. 254 00:30:32,240 --> 00:30:36,079 The scenery in Antarctica is magnificent and dramatic, 255 00:30:36,080 --> 00:30:40,120 but what really attracts people here is the wildlife. 256 00:30:42,440 --> 00:30:45,360 An emperor penguin colony is a particular highlight. 257 00:30:49,720 --> 00:30:52,000 Because human beings didn't arrive in the 258 00:30:52,001 --> 00:30:54,279 Antarctic until the past few centuries, 259 00:30:54,280 --> 00:30:56,880 the animals have never developed a fear of man. 260 00:31:01,160 --> 00:31:05,880 But very strict regulations govern how close people can approach any wildlife. 261 00:31:07,760 --> 00:31:09,960 And when visitors leave, they must take 262 00:31:09,961 --> 00:31:12,160 every trace of their visit away with them. 263 00:31:39,960 --> 00:31:45,480 Since 1959, the whole of Antarctica has been protected by international treaty. 264 00:31:47,280 --> 00:31:51,639 The nations of the world have agreed that no country can claim Antarctica, 265 00:31:51,640 --> 00:31:53,800 or prospect for its oil or minerals. 266 00:31:56,880 --> 00:32:00,679 The only significant human activities allowed here are those that 267 00:32:00,680 --> 00:32:03,440 extend our scientific knowledge. 268 00:32:07,480 --> 00:32:11,280 But unlocking Antarctica's secrets requires some unusual tools. 269 00:32:29,520 --> 00:32:33,399 This brand new robot submarine has been designed to go 270 00:32:33,400 --> 00:32:35,960 far beyond the limits of any human. 271 00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:51,220 Today, this diver is putting the sub through 272 00:32:51,221 --> 00:32:54,040 its paces on one of its very first dives. 273 00:32:55,360 --> 00:32:59,079 It's designed to be small and nimble enough 274 00:32:59,080 --> 00:33:03,040 to explore the Antarctic seabed without damaging it. 275 00:33:17,400 --> 00:33:21,759 The submarine's mission, as it journeys into the unknown, 276 00:33:21,760 --> 00:33:25,120 is to map the seafloor and look for species new to science. 277 00:33:40,680 --> 00:33:43,580 The seawater here is a degree below zero, so even 278 00:33:43,581 --> 00:33:46,480 the toughest human diver can't stay down for long. 279 00:33:50,080 --> 00:33:55,200 The submarine will explore deeper under the ice than anyone has gone before. 280 00:33:59,840 --> 00:34:04,799 From the depths of the ocean to the highest peaks of the land, 281 00:34:04,800 --> 00:34:07,580 new discoveries are being made even in places 282 00:34:07,581 --> 00:34:10,360 which were first visited over a century ago. 283 00:34:22,800 --> 00:34:25,580 Mount Erebus was an irresistible draw to 284 00:34:25,581 --> 00:34:28,360 the legendary explorer Ernest Shackleton. 285 00:34:29,560 --> 00:34:35,039 In 1908, his men became the first to climb this active volcano. 286 00:34:35,040 --> 00:34:39,840 They soon discovered that this is the coldest place on the Antarctic coast. 287 00:34:40,840 --> 00:34:42,960 Today's explorers still have to guard 288 00:34:42,961 --> 00:34:45,079 against frostbite in the height of summer 289 00:34:45,080 --> 00:34:48,760 when temperatures rarely creep above minus 30 degrees centigrade. 290 00:34:54,720 --> 00:34:59,519 Shackleton's men had no idea of the extraordinary spectacle 291 00:34:59,520 --> 00:35:01,840 that lay beneath their feet. 292 00:35:07,320 --> 00:35:09,919 Yep, OK, up on the wall there somewhere now. Yeah. 293 00:35:09,920 --> 00:35:13,359 Under the ice and snow is a network of caves, 294 00:35:13,360 --> 00:35:18,320 which only a handful of expert cavers have ever dared to enter. 295 00:35:24,680 --> 00:35:29,880 This is the first scientific expedition to explore them in detail. 296 00:35:35,320 --> 00:35:40,040 Here, there are ice formations that occur nowhere else on Earth. 297 00:35:42,840 --> 00:35:46,960 Each cave contains its own unique collection of structures. 298 00:36:14,480 --> 00:36:20,239 The team is mapping the caves to see how their shape changes over the years. 299 00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:22,840 OK, flat side to here. 300 00:36:31,000 --> 00:36:36,039 That's 126.8 degrees for the angle. 301 00:36:36,040 --> 00:36:37,599 126.8. Correct. 302 00:36:37,600 --> 00:36:42,199 The steam leaking from vents in the side of the volcano 303 00:36:42,200 --> 00:36:46,480 is constantly sculpting this labyrinth that extends deep under the ice. 304 00:36:48,480 --> 00:36:52,239 When the hot breath of the volcano hits the icy walls, 305 00:36:52,240 --> 00:36:55,960 the moisture in the air freezes into beautiful shapes. 306 00:37:09,440 --> 00:37:14,199 Some of the crystals are so unusual that the cavers are investigating 307 00:37:14,200 --> 00:37:17,680 a remote but tantalising possibility about their formation. 308 00:37:20,360 --> 00:37:23,519 Could it be that some of these extraordinary crystal shapes 309 00:37:23,520 --> 00:37:28,320 are formed by highly specialised bacteria, living in the ice? 310 00:37:44,080 --> 00:37:46,439 Nobody yet knows the answer. 311 00:37:46,440 --> 00:37:50,279 This is just one of the many strange mysteries that draw people to 312 00:37:50,280 --> 00:37:53,440 work in a place that is so hostile to human life. 313 00:38:01,000 --> 00:38:05,839 While some scientists come to Erebus to explore its bizarre ice caves, 314 00:38:05,840 --> 00:38:11,120 others visit the volcano to study the innermost workings of our planet. 315 00:38:16,920 --> 00:38:20,799 Erebus is one of the most active volcanoes on Earth, 316 00:38:20,800 --> 00:38:25,400 but even so, volcanologists work on the very rim of its crater. 317 00:38:27,080 --> 00:38:31,879 They stand in the bitter cold, while 100 metres below them 318 00:38:31,880 --> 00:38:35,360 is a lava lake where temperatures are over a thousand degrees centigrade. 319 00:38:39,200 --> 00:38:42,080 This is a rare glimpse of the molten rock 320 00:38:42,081 --> 00:38:44,960 that lies beneath the earth's crust. 321 00:38:59,640 --> 00:39:03,119 But research here is looking up as well as down, 322 00:39:03,120 --> 00:39:06,759 measuring how the gases that bubble out of the volcano 323 00:39:06,760 --> 00:39:09,800 influence the make-up of the air we breathe. 324 00:39:13,080 --> 00:39:18,319 Antarctica is the best place to measure any changes in our atmosphere 325 00:39:18,320 --> 00:39:21,880 because it has the least polluted air on Earth. 326 00:39:23,040 --> 00:39:28,080 It's also the perfect place to launch more outward-looking missions. 327 00:39:33,920 --> 00:39:38,399 This balloon, made of material no thicker than Clingfilm, 328 00:39:38,400 --> 00:39:41,400 will eventually grow to be 300 metres tall. 329 00:39:44,520 --> 00:39:48,399 It will carry a device for detecting cosmic rays, 330 00:39:48,400 --> 00:39:53,600 tiny particles from the beginning of time that are only now reaching earth. 331 00:40:04,440 --> 00:40:09,439 The balloon will travel to the very edge of outer space 332 00:40:09,440 --> 00:40:13,520 to gather clues about the formation of the universe. 333 00:40:22,040 --> 00:40:26,960 Even today, very few ever make the journey inland from the coast. 334 00:40:28,160 --> 00:40:32,600 We still know remarkably little about the interior of the continent. 335 00:40:34,280 --> 00:40:39,519 The people on this plane are trying to answer one of the fundamental questions. 336 00:40:39,520 --> 00:40:41,880 How much ice is there in Antarctica? 337 00:40:48,480 --> 00:40:50,839 They measure the depth of the ice sheet, 338 00:40:50,840 --> 00:40:54,840 which is over 4,000 metres in places, using radar. 339 00:40:56,760 --> 00:40:59,799 Their work will enable us to see 340 00:40:59,800 --> 00:41:03,080 how the volume of Antarctica's ice changes in the future. 341 00:41:04,280 --> 00:41:07,800 It also makes it possible to map a hidden landscape. 342 00:41:21,120 --> 00:41:26,799 This plane is following the same route through the Trans-Antarctic Mountains 343 00:41:26,800 --> 00:41:29,919 that Captain Scott took a hundred years ago. 344 00:41:29,920 --> 00:41:32,700 His team hauled their sleds over a hundred 345 00:41:32,701 --> 00:41:35,480 miles up this glacier, the Beardmore. 346 00:41:42,520 --> 00:41:46,839 Skirting seemingly endless crevasses, with no map to guide them 347 00:41:46,840 --> 00:41:51,840 and no idea of what lay ahead, it was a journey of extraordinary suffering. 348 00:42:02,880 --> 00:42:05,319 Their target lay beyond the mountains, 349 00:42:05,320 --> 00:42:10,680 over 3,000 metres above sea level, on the Antarctic Plateau. 350 00:42:17,280 --> 00:42:20,919 An unbroken sheet of ice, larger than Western Europe, 351 00:42:20,920 --> 00:42:25,520 this is the coldest, the windiest, the most lifeless place on Earth. 352 00:42:30,400 --> 00:42:34,759 Roald Amundsen's team narrowly defeated Scott's to become 353 00:42:34,760 --> 00:42:41,000 the first people to reach the South Pole on the 14th of December 1911. 354 00:42:42,160 --> 00:42:47,760 Nobody else successfully completed the journey for nearly 50 years after that. 355 00:42:52,000 --> 00:42:56,599 But, since 1957, there has been a permanent base at the South Pole. 356 00:42:56,600 --> 00:42:59,240 You can even land a plane on the ice runway. 357 00:43:02,440 --> 00:43:05,260 The early explorers would be astounded by 358 00:43:05,261 --> 00:43:08,080 the facilities at the South Pole today. 359 00:43:11,360 --> 00:43:14,200 Construction work isn't easy when the average 360 00:43:14,201 --> 00:43:17,040 summer temperature is minus 25 degrees Centigrade. 361 00:43:18,360 --> 00:43:21,919 But, despite the difficulties, the most high-tech scientific research 362 00:43:21,920 --> 00:43:26,320 station ever built was unveiled here in 2006. 363 00:43:32,080 --> 00:43:36,359 The brand new Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station is designed to 364 00:43:36,360 --> 00:43:40,519 cope with the World's most extreme conditions. 365 00:43:40,520 --> 00:43:45,879 The building's sloping edge deflects the prevailing wind. 366 00:43:45,880 --> 00:43:49,439 Beneath, there are stilts that can raise the whole building 367 00:43:49,440 --> 00:43:52,480 a further eight metres to keep it above the accumulating snow. 368 00:44:01,280 --> 00:44:06,959 Living inside is as close to being on a space-station as you can find on Earth. 369 00:44:06,960 --> 00:44:11,439 This base is totally self-sufficient, the people are completely 370 00:44:11,440 --> 00:44:16,000 cut off from the outside world for more than half the year over winter. 371 00:44:23,160 --> 00:44:27,520 The total darkness makes this the perfect place to study the night sky. 372 00:44:35,520 --> 00:44:39,599 The group of star gazers will be the most isolated community on our 373 00:44:39,600 --> 00:44:42,920 planet, but they will have all their needs catered for. 374 00:44:48,520 --> 00:44:52,679 There is even a greenhouse where fresh vegetables grow under 375 00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:57,360 artificial light all through the darkest, coldest winter anywhere. 376 00:45:13,960 --> 00:45:18,920 The sun sets in March at the South Pole, and won't rise again for six months. 377 00:45:25,040 --> 00:45:29,999 For a few days at this time of year, high altitude clouds of ice crystals 378 00:45:30,000 --> 00:45:32,380 continue to catch the sunlight, even when 379 00:45:32,381 --> 00:45:34,760 the sun itself is far below the horizon. 380 00:45:52,360 --> 00:45:55,559 But soon all trace of the sun disappears, 381 00:45:55,560 --> 00:46:00,760 and today's over-wintering scientists remember the first explorers. 382 00:46:05,120 --> 00:46:09,159 These men, who endured the winter in flimsy wooden huts, 383 00:46:09,160 --> 00:46:13,559 borrowed knowledge from the Arctic pioneers before them, 384 00:46:13,560 --> 00:46:19,279 but they came here to study and explore, rather than to hunt or exploit. 385 00:46:19,280 --> 00:46:24,280 They embodied the human spirit that has enabled us to survive at the poles. 386 00:46:30,120 --> 00:46:33,799 Here, we are pushed to our limits, but in being pushed, humanity has 387 00:46:33,800 --> 00:46:39,400 achieved the extraordinary and opened up the last frontier. 388 00:46:56,920 --> 00:47:00,639 To tell the story of how we survive at the Poles, Frozen Planet 389 00:47:00,640 --> 00:47:03,239 travelled to Siberia, the far north of Russia, 390 00:47:03,240 --> 00:47:06,800 where most of the Arctic's people live. 391 00:47:09,440 --> 00:47:12,120 The team got to know many extraordinary people. 392 00:47:14,880 --> 00:47:18,839 But one group of men above all really opened their eyes to what it means 393 00:47:18,840 --> 00:47:23,440 to live off the land in the most unforgiving environment on earth. 394 00:47:25,960 --> 00:47:29,480 Men who take their life in their hands everyday, just to find their food. 395 00:47:41,720 --> 00:47:44,480 Producer, Dan Rees, led the Frozen Planet 396 00:47:44,481 --> 00:47:47,240 team on their longest journey in the Arctic. 397 00:47:49,160 --> 00:47:51,780 Their mission was to film walrus hunters 398 00:47:51,781 --> 00:47:54,399 in Russia's most remote region, Chukotka, 399 00:47:54,400 --> 00:47:57,759 the closest point to their old enemy the United States, 400 00:47:57,760 --> 00:48:00,560 4,000 miles and nine time zones east of Moscow. 401 00:48:03,240 --> 00:48:05,599 It's still a sensitive region, 402 00:48:05,600 --> 00:48:07,920 and the team soon learn that the border guards 403 00:48:07,921 --> 00:48:10,239 remain twitchy about foreigners with cameras. 404 00:48:10,240 --> 00:48:12,400 Nyet! Nyet! 405 00:48:17,120 --> 00:48:21,159 To get permission to film, the crew relied on anthropologist Niobe Thompson, 406 00:48:21,160 --> 00:48:24,400 one of the few westerners to have worked with the people here. 407 00:48:28,000 --> 00:48:30,400 But even Niobe finds a lot of doors closed to him. 408 00:48:32,240 --> 00:48:38,359 I have experienced a level of red tape I never could have anticipated. 409 00:48:38,360 --> 00:48:41,119 We've got our Russian visas in our passports, 410 00:48:41,120 --> 00:48:43,799 that's fine, but that's just the beginning. 411 00:48:43,800 --> 00:48:47,599 Here is the special permission given by the security services to 412 00:48:47,600 --> 00:48:50,479 be in the region of Chukotka, 413 00:48:50,480 --> 00:48:53,380 a special permission to be in every one of the 414 00:48:53,381 --> 00:48:56,279 population centres we will visit on our trip, 415 00:48:56,280 --> 00:49:00,639 permission to shoot with a telephoto lens, 416 00:49:00,640 --> 00:49:05,639 permission to shoot from a helicopter, 417 00:49:05,640 --> 00:49:09,639 permission to shoot in a natural reserve, 418 00:49:09,640 --> 00:49:12,159 but we still don't have our migration cards. 419 00:49:12,160 --> 00:49:15,439 I'm trying to get them, and if we don't get them by the end of the day 420 00:49:15,440 --> 00:49:17,620 we're going to be deported back to Alaska, 421 00:49:17,621 --> 00:49:19,799 it'll take three months to get new ones. 422 00:49:19,800 --> 00:49:22,039 Niobe's paper chase takes two days, 423 00:49:22,040 --> 00:49:26,639 but finally the team is allowed to begin their journey to the hunters' camp. 424 00:49:26,640 --> 00:49:29,919 With no roads, sometimes the only passable route is over 425 00:49:29,920 --> 00:49:33,120 the fast melting surfaces of the lakes. 426 00:49:43,240 --> 00:49:44,760 OK? 427 00:49:49,240 --> 00:49:51,640 They need to be prepared for a quick exit. 428 00:49:59,280 --> 00:50:03,399 The next day the crew finally reach the coast. 429 00:50:03,400 --> 00:50:05,960 The hunting camp is now just 30 miles away 430 00:50:05,961 --> 00:50:08,519 across a bay, but the crossing could be risky. 431 00:50:08,520 --> 00:50:13,320 The frozen sea is melting fast in the spring sunshine. 432 00:50:18,560 --> 00:50:21,679 Confident it's safe? It's not going to break underneath us? 433 00:50:21,680 --> 00:50:24,519 Is that the decision, 50/50? 434 00:50:24,520 --> 00:50:26,639 50/50! 435 00:50:26,640 --> 00:50:29,999 The locals employ several generations of arctic transport, 436 00:50:30,000 --> 00:50:32,600 from the ancient to the merely antique. 437 00:50:36,920 --> 00:50:41,479 With the sea ice cracking up beneath them, Dan has to trust the crew 438 00:50:41,480 --> 00:50:45,040 and a ton of filming gear to the experience of the locals. 439 00:50:46,480 --> 00:50:50,040 Even by their standards this was fast becoming a risky journey. 440 00:50:55,920 --> 00:50:59,600 Where the first sleds crossed just minutes before is now impassable. 441 00:51:05,280 --> 00:51:08,599 It's broken right up, we can't cross the leads in the ice here, 442 00:51:08,600 --> 00:51:10,840 so we need to get on some boats, and the ice is 443 00:51:10,841 --> 00:51:13,079 just breaking up too fast for us at the moment. 444 00:51:13,080 --> 00:51:16,799 Fortunately, the hunters from the camp turn up in the nick of time 445 00:51:16,800 --> 00:51:20,760 to rescue the crew for the final leg of the journey. 446 00:51:30,920 --> 00:51:33,879 Six days and 5,000 miles from home, 447 00:51:33,880 --> 00:51:36,280 the crew finally arrive at the place that 448 00:51:36,281 --> 00:51:38,680 will be their home for the next month. 449 00:51:45,480 --> 00:51:48,999 This is an active hunting camp and, that evening, the team 450 00:51:49,000 --> 00:51:52,880 are introduced to the realities of fending for yourself in the Arctic. 451 00:51:55,280 --> 00:51:57,879 Well, we've just seen a walrus hunt 452 00:51:57,880 --> 00:52:01,719 out here in the waters of the Bering Sea. 453 00:52:01,720 --> 00:52:03,680 All the meat will be eaten, they eat an 454 00:52:03,681 --> 00:52:05,639 awful lot of the internal organs as well, 455 00:52:05,640 --> 00:52:08,159 they use the skin, they use the sinews, 456 00:52:08,160 --> 00:52:12,919 they use the stomach for making drums, so it'll get used very heavily 457 00:52:12,920 --> 00:52:18,240 and it is completely free range, you know, wild caught animal. 458 00:52:19,600 --> 00:52:24,919 You can't grow any vegetables up here, but sea mammal meat contains 459 00:52:24,920 --> 00:52:29,399 all the nutrients the hunters need and is very low in cholesterol. 460 00:52:29,400 --> 00:52:32,319 Dan is keen to try some of Kolya's health food. 461 00:52:32,320 --> 00:52:37,319 Well, this is yesterday's seal and a chunk of flesh there, 462 00:52:37,320 --> 00:52:39,879 behind it is some intestine. 463 00:52:39,880 --> 00:52:42,119 We should try a bit. 464 00:52:42,120 --> 00:52:44,800 That's seal intestine. 465 00:52:48,600 --> 00:52:51,799 It's quite fishy. Fishy, fishy rubber. 466 00:52:51,800 --> 00:52:53,900 That's not too bad. I thought it was going 467 00:52:53,901 --> 00:52:55,999 to be more disgusting than it actually is. 468 00:52:56,000 --> 00:52:59,399 The salt helps. Yeah. 469 00:52:59,400 --> 00:53:02,879 Would he like to try what we eat? It's chicken, chicken korma. 470 00:53:02,880 --> 00:53:04,839 No? 471 00:53:04,840 --> 00:53:08,800 I don't blame you to be honest, yours is much better! 472 00:53:15,040 --> 00:53:20,719 As well as providing food, the animals here traditionally provided transport. 473 00:53:20,720 --> 00:53:23,999 Kolya and Pasha, the oldest hunters, 474 00:53:24,000 --> 00:53:27,039 keep alive the skill of building walrus skin boats. 475 00:53:27,040 --> 00:53:29,639 You don't need a welding torch to repair this boat, 476 00:53:29,640 --> 00:53:33,440 just a juicy lump of seal fat to bung any holes. 477 00:53:35,840 --> 00:53:40,279 By living amongst them, the crew had really begun to get to know the hunters, 478 00:53:40,280 --> 00:53:43,800 but there was one big part of their lives which remained a mystery. 479 00:53:47,320 --> 00:53:50,140 As spring turns to summer, the hunters head 480 00:53:50,141 --> 00:53:52,959 out to an island to gather seabird eggs. 481 00:53:52,960 --> 00:53:55,600 The crew had heard stories of this, but had 482 00:53:55,601 --> 00:53:58,240 little idea of what it was going to involve. 483 00:54:00,480 --> 00:54:04,239 That's where they climb, those are impressive heights. 484 00:54:04,240 --> 00:54:05,480 Quite something. 485 00:54:10,000 --> 00:54:12,700 For cameraman Ted Giffords, this was the first 486 00:54:12,701 --> 00:54:15,400 sight of the rock face he was about to work on. 487 00:54:19,560 --> 00:54:22,200 These cliffs can be treacherous, as Kolya, the 488 00:54:22,201 --> 00:54:24,840 expert egg collector, knows only too well. 489 00:54:51,840 --> 00:54:54,760 Ted will rely on steel stakes for anchors 490 00:54:54,761 --> 00:54:57,680 and an array of climbing gear and ropes. 491 00:54:59,000 --> 00:55:01,860 Kolya preferred to stick with the simpler 492 00:55:01,861 --> 00:55:04,720 method that has served him well for many years. 493 00:55:10,840 --> 00:55:14,240 The crew can't quite believe what they're seeing. 494 00:55:20,840 --> 00:55:25,439 If he fell on that that would be absolutely horrendous. 495 00:55:25,440 --> 00:55:30,039 It's... yeah, it's a bit sketchy, and the rope is only about that thick. 496 00:55:30,040 --> 00:55:31,960 It's an interesting method. 497 00:55:33,160 --> 00:55:35,740 The limestone cliff is loose and crumbling, because 498 00:55:35,741 --> 00:55:38,320 of hundreds of years of freezing and thawing. 499 00:55:40,600 --> 00:55:43,100 Even for a highly trained professional 500 00:55:43,101 --> 00:55:45,600 climber like Ted, it's a dangerous descent. 501 00:55:55,360 --> 00:56:00,199 Kolya has been climbing here for four decades, but this is the first time 502 00:56:00,200 --> 00:56:03,840 he's had company, and sometimes he forgets that Ted is just below him. 503 00:56:07,680 --> 00:56:11,279 Climbing supervisor Adam Scott holds his breath as he watches. 504 00:56:11,280 --> 00:56:16,120 A fall to the rocks 100 metres below would almost certainly be fatal. 505 00:56:25,720 --> 00:56:29,800 This is the most hardcore thing I've ever seen. 506 00:56:34,200 --> 00:56:37,279 It was when the team returned to the boat to finish filming 507 00:56:37,280 --> 00:56:39,800 that they got their most spectacular view of the 508 00:56:39,801 --> 00:56:42,320 lengths Kolya was going to to get his dinner. 509 00:56:47,440 --> 00:56:51,839 This shot sent the team home with a fresh perspective and a deep 510 00:56:51,840 --> 00:56:57,079 respect for these people who still live off the land in the Arctic. 511 00:56:57,080 --> 00:57:00,160 A way of life for which there is no safety net. 47203

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