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The polar regions are more hostile to
life than any other part of the Earth.
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Human beings have little natural
protection against the cold,
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so why, for thousands of years,
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have we endured the hardships that
come from living here?
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And what keeps us coming back today,
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to the farthest extremes
of our planet?
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Winter in the most northerly town
on Earth, Longyearbyen.
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Here, for three months of the year,
the sun never rises.
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Only the full moon, which never
sets as far north as this,
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sheds any light into the darkness.
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This town was built here in Svalbard,
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only 700 miles from the North Pole,
to support a mine.
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The Arctic is rich in coal,
oil and minerals.
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In Siberia, the Russian
Arctic, the mineral
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wealth has given rise
to large cities.
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This is Norilsk,
the coldest city on Earth.
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Temperatures regularly drop
to below minus 50 degrees Centigrade.
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Fuel freezes in the tanks
of the trucks, and
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has to be melted in a
rather alarming way.
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Ships are frozen into the rivers
for nine months of the year.
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The ice must be cut
away from their hulls
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because steel becomes brittle
and vulnerable to the thickening ice.
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Like all Arctic cities,
Norilsk depends on a
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power plant which heats
everybody's home.
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Waste heat from the plant even keeps
a lake ice-free all winter.
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Even at air temperatures
of minus 50, the
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Norilsk Walrus Club
come here every day.
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There is evidence that a dip in cold
water is good for the immune system,
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but when the water is
a degree above freezing,
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it's hard to imagine that the
benefits could outweigh the pain.
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Today's Arctic city
dwellers can lead an
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almost normal existence
thanks to technology.
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But towns and cities are very recent
arrivals in the polar landscape.
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The polar regions are the least
populated part of our planet.
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Most of the Arctic remains
empty of human beings.
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In the north, the Pole itself is
covered by a freezing ocean.
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Around it lie vast lands, of which
Siberia is the largest and coldest.
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Human beings first ventured onto
the great plains of Siberia,
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the tundra, thousands of years ago,
and some live here still.
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The Dolgan are one of the few tribes
who still live in much the same way
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as those first Arctic pioneers.
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They are reindeer people.
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Reindeer are one of few animals that can
endure these bitterly cold conditions,
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scraping a living by nibbling tiny
plants that survive beneath the snow.
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Nobody has ever totally
tamed reindeer,
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but today's animals are docile enough
to allow the Dolgan
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to drive them across the tundra in an
everlasting search for their food.
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This is a typical Dolgan village,
home to just two extended families.
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Here, in the coldest part of Arctic,
the only way to get water
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for nine months of the year is to
melt ice from the frozen rivers.
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At least there's no problem
preventing food from decay.
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Outside is one big deep-freeze.
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Survival is only possible
because of reindeer fur.
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It makes wonderfully warm clothing,
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though small children still
have to be sewn into
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their clothes to prevent
instant frostbite.
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The Dolgan even use reindeer fur to
insulate their huts.
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This is living at its most communal.
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Good relations with the in-laws are
essential.
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Reindeer are so valuable
that the people
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only eat them if they
have no other choice.
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Their favourite food is
raw fish from the frozen rivers.
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Every week or so, these
families have to travel
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00:07:46,741 --> 00:07:49,480
to find new feeding
grounds for their herds.
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First, they round up their strongest
animals with lassoes,
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a skill that their
ancestors brought with
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them when they came north
from Central Asia.
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00:08:08,160 --> 00:08:11,480
And then, literally, they move house.
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A whole Dolgan village can move
on in just a few hours.
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Over the year, they travel hundreds of
miles like this across the vast tundra.
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It was the herds of reindeer, wandering
over the lands of the Arctic,
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that brought the first Dolgan here.
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Other people, however,
took on an even greater challenge.
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They left the land and looked
for their food out on the frozen sea.
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Here in the shifting world of the sea
ice, they found sea mammals.
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Pasha leads a group of
Inuit men in Chukotka,
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the North Eastern
corner of Russia.
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The men have travelled many
hours from home in the bitter cold,
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fighting their way through
a dangerous maze.
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These hundred tonne ice floes could
crush their small boats like eggshells.
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The men have big families, and this is
the only way they have of feeding them.
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Pasha is looking for the puffs of
steamy air produced by their quarry.
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An animal that is bigger than
many Arctic whales.
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A two tonne seal with formidable
tusks.
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A walrus.
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It's heading for open water.
They must reach it before it dives.
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An angry walrus could easily
overturn the boats.
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The harpoon sticks firmly in the
walrus's thick layer of blubber,
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and floats attached to it prevent
the animal from diving.
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Pasha wants to kill quickly with
a single clean shot.
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The hunters are exhausted
after a long day,
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but they still have a
lot more work to do.
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This enormous prize will feed
everyone's family for weeks.
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It will take many hours to butcher.
Nothing will go to waste.
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The meat is parcelled up in bags
made of the animal's skin.
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It's midnight, but the sun is still
up.
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Summer is almost here.
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This far north,
the seasons change fast,
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the sun is rising higher and
growing warmer with each passing day.
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The transformation from winter to
summer is so dramatic
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that it dominates the lives of all
who live here.
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The ice around the coast has
almost disappeared,
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and gone are the seals and walrus
that Pasha and his men relied on.
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They set off on
another search for food.
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Their destination is
an island in the bay.
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Their walrus skin boat is
an ancient design,
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light enough to carry high up
the beach so it doesn't drift away.
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Once again, the men will have to work
as a team,
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but one of them will be taking
very serious risks.
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The lightest man in the group, Kolya,
is also the oldest.
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He will trust his life
to a length of old
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00:14:56,561 --> 00:14:59,200
nylon rope and the
strength of his friends.
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00:15:15,160 --> 00:15:20,439
These 100 metre high cliffs are home
to thousands of guillemots,
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and Kolya is after their eggs.
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He relies on the men above to
lower him to the right place.
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Kolya is tough
but his stress is obvious.
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The men lower Kolya down to
the bottom of the cliff,
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00:15:48,280 --> 00:15:51,240
and from there, he works his way back
up the crumbling rock face.
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00:16:08,800 --> 00:16:09,880
Stop!
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00:16:23,600 --> 00:16:26,639
This mission will produce no more
than about 50 eggs,
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00:16:26,640 --> 00:16:29,920
but at least there's no need to
carry a packed lunch.
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Over the years, many men have fallen to
their deaths collecting seabird eggs.
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This is truly dangerous work.
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These Arctic peoples can't
grow crops.
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The frozen ground never thaws to
allow them to do so.
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00:17:12,160 --> 00:17:16,519
They rely on animals for their food
so the chance to collect a few
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00:17:16,520 --> 00:17:20,760
dozen eggs has to be taken,
even if it means risking your life.
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00:17:37,320 --> 00:17:42,159
The change of season has transformed
the Arctic's coastline
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00:17:42,160 --> 00:17:44,640
and inland, the difference
is just as extreme.
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00:17:49,360 --> 00:17:52,080
July temperatures on
the tundra can be
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surprisingly high, over
30 degrees centigrade.
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Reindeer now move not just to
find fresh pasture,
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00:18:02,280 --> 00:18:06,280
but also to avoid the summer
swarms of blood sucking flies.
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00:18:08,840 --> 00:18:13,680
To keep their animals healthy, the local
herders are driving them to the sea.
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The cooler conditions on
the coast bring relief to the herds
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00:18:20,720 --> 00:18:23,280
and the chance, every year,
for different tribes to meet.
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00:18:26,720 --> 00:18:29,180
Pasha and his hunters
live close by.
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00:18:29,181 --> 00:18:31,640
They've had word of
the herders' arrival.
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00:18:37,640 --> 00:18:42,439
The hunters' cargo is highly
prized for the winter ahead,
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fat-rich walrus meat
that's been fermenting
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00:18:44,841 --> 00:18:47,240
in the skin bags for two months.
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00:18:49,160 --> 00:18:53,840
Today will see an exchange that has
taken place every summer for centuries.
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00:18:55,360 --> 00:18:59,359
The herders barter reindeer
skins for walrus meat.
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00:18:59,360 --> 00:19:04,920
Pooling their resources has helped these
communities to survive for so long.
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A fry-up of guillemot eggs is all the
better when shared with old friends.
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Summer brings a brief
chance for isolated peoples to meet.
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This is an opportunity to exchange
news, arrange weddings,
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and tell the latest jokes.
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00:19:38,760 --> 00:19:41,639
By August, the summer is over.
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00:19:41,640 --> 00:19:45,519
Winter arrives only too swiftly,
but the peoples of the Arctic,
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who came here originally to hunt,
have devised ways to deal with
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the hostile and changing conditions
that have stood the test of time.
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Today, there's a new draw to the
Arctic.
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This is Greenland, a
territory of Denmark now
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known to be rich in oil
and precious metals.
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00:20:24,640 --> 00:20:28,360
This sled team is
part of the Danish Special Forces.
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00:20:30,320 --> 00:20:33,759
They're on one of the world's toughest
journeys, a 2,000 mile patrol
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00:20:33,760 --> 00:20:37,640
to maintain Denmark's
claim to this valuable wilderness.
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But the patrol's mission
is only possible with
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the help of man's oldest
Arctic companion.
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Rasmus and Roland have spent the
summer months training
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00:20:58,321 --> 00:21:02,079
and getting to know their team of
Greenland huskies.
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00:21:02,080 --> 00:21:06,279
They need to have a very close bond
with every single dog.
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00:21:06,280 --> 00:21:10,079
This is Roger and Armstrong,
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actually the oldest dog in the whole
patrol, but he's still going strong.
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The men are totally dependent on
the stamina of their dogs,
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which will keep on running all through
the bitter cold of the winter.
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This is the last time the team will
see the sun for two months.
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The most intelligent dogs
always lead,
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00:21:43,840 --> 00:21:48,080
choosing the safest route, feeling
for hidden crevasses and thin ice.
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This is one of six teams that patrol
the whole of northeast Greenland,
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the only people in an
empty wilderness that is
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00:22:05,981 --> 00:22:08,760
larger than France and
Great Britain combined.
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00:22:12,880 --> 00:22:17,359
Conditions here are too extreme
for current mining technology,
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00:22:17,360 --> 00:22:21,319
but some day, ways will be found of
digging out the huge mineral treasures
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that lie hidden within these
mountains.
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00:22:26,280 --> 00:22:32,080
The patrol secures Denmark's claim to
do so simply by being here.
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00:22:43,480 --> 00:22:45,880
But it's not the
prospect of getting rich
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00:22:45,881 --> 00:22:48,279
that makes men sign
up for this patrol,
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00:22:48,280 --> 00:22:50,720
it's the chance for the journey of a
lifetime.
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00:22:51,760 --> 00:22:54,540
The team travel over
the ice for six
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00:22:54,541 --> 00:22:57,320
months, covering up
to 40 miles in a day.
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00:23:01,240 --> 00:23:04,760
Friendship and teamwork are essential
if they're to succeed.
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00:23:06,760 --> 00:23:11,399
Their dogs can sleep outside no
matter how cold it gets.
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00:23:11,400 --> 00:23:14,800
Rasmus and Roland have a
nice cosy tent.
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00:23:18,920 --> 00:23:22,359
They have a few modern conveniences,
including a radio,
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00:23:22,360 --> 00:23:26,679
with which they report their position
back to headquarters in Denmark
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00:23:26,680 --> 00:23:28,720
and catch up on the latest news.
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00:23:32,520 --> 00:23:34,759
Right now it's the section of money,
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00:23:34,760 --> 00:23:39,519
what's new in the economy in
Denmark, the financial crisis
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00:23:39,520 --> 00:23:43,000
and all the other things that we
actually don't care about out here.
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If you can cope with
the conditions, then
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00:23:46,961 --> 00:23:49,439
winter in the Arctic
can be magical,
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00:23:49,440 --> 00:23:53,640
especially when the greatest
light show on Earth is overhead.
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00:24:03,280 --> 00:24:06,959
The first humans in the Arctic
believed the Northern Lights,
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00:24:06,960 --> 00:24:10,799
or aurora borealis,
were dancing spirits.
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00:24:10,800 --> 00:24:13,740
Now we know the lights are
caused by electrically
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00:24:13,741 --> 00:24:16,679
charged particles
streaming from the sun,
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00:24:16,680 --> 00:24:20,040
attracted by the magnetic
pull of the earth's poles.
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00:24:32,760 --> 00:24:37,239
A big aurora storm contains enough
energy to knock out satellite
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00:24:37,240 --> 00:24:41,639
communications and power supplies
across the northern hemisphere,
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00:24:41,640 --> 00:24:45,000
so understanding the aurora
is vital.
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00:24:50,880 --> 00:24:54,160
In Alaska,
rockets are used to study the Lights.
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00:24:56,680 --> 00:25:00,159
A hundred miles up, at the edge
of outer space, the rockets
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00:25:00,160 --> 00:25:03,800
release a cloud of glowing smoke
that's visible from earth.
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00:25:08,920 --> 00:25:13,160
The smoke is blown by fierce winds
which are generated by the aurora.
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00:25:17,120 --> 00:25:20,919
Mapping the movement of the smoke
helps scientists to understand
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00:25:20,920 --> 00:25:24,800
how this unearthly spectacle
affects our atmosphere.
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00:25:45,800 --> 00:25:50,879
They constantly monitor
the aurora to help protect us
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00:25:50,880 --> 00:25:54,039
from its effects, so the rest of us
can simply enjoy the magic,
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00:25:54,040 --> 00:25:58,000
just as the Arctic's first people must
have done, thousands of years ago.
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00:26:13,880 --> 00:26:16,599
For all the many
peoples of the Arctic,
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00:26:16,600 --> 00:26:19,240
the aurora is a
reminder of the sun's
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00:26:19,241 --> 00:26:21,880
presence throughout the
dark days of winter.
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00:26:26,520 --> 00:26:29,399
But when the sun
is below the horizon in the north,
217
00:26:29,400 --> 00:26:32,200
it's above it at the southern
end of our planet.
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00:26:35,480 --> 00:26:38,240
Here, humanity's history has
been very different.
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00:26:43,960 --> 00:26:47,399
Antarctica is far colder
than the Arctic,
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00:26:47,400 --> 00:26:52,120
and 99% of its land is permanently
blanketed by ice.
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00:26:53,920 --> 00:26:57,439
Antarctica is so utterly remote
222
00:26:57,440 --> 00:27:00,120
and inhospitable that no people
ever settled here.
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00:27:03,680 --> 00:27:07,279
It was only 200 years ago that the
first human beings
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00:27:07,280 --> 00:27:09,800
even glimpsed the vast continent.
225
00:27:17,520 --> 00:27:20,719
The first people who crossed
the Southern Ocean did
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00:27:20,720 --> 00:27:24,719
so for the same reason that the first
people went to the Arctic Ocean,
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00:27:24,720 --> 00:27:27,040
to hunt sea mammals.
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00:27:39,560 --> 00:27:43,719
The populations of whales
and seals are only now beginning to
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00:27:43,720 --> 00:27:47,360
recover from 150 years
of intensive hunting.
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00:28:02,720 --> 00:28:05,580
But none of those hunters
ever tried to venture into
231
00:28:05,581 --> 00:28:08,440
the frigid interior of
the Antarctic continent.
232
00:28:10,440 --> 00:28:15,600
The first successful attempt to do that
was made only a hundred years ago.
233
00:28:17,800 --> 00:28:20,400
This hut was the base
for one of the most
234
00:28:20,401 --> 00:28:23,000
famous expeditions
in polar history.
235
00:28:29,840 --> 00:28:34,319
It was from here in 1911 that
Captain Scott and his team
236
00:28:34,320 --> 00:28:38,760
launched their attempt to be the
first people to reach the South Pole.
237
00:28:43,200 --> 00:28:45,799
The cold, dry conditions have
preserved the interior
238
00:28:45,800 --> 00:28:50,280
of the hut almost exactly
as the expedition members left it.
239
00:28:55,920 --> 00:28:58,800
Expedition photographer
Herbert Ponting
240
00:28:58,801 --> 00:29:01,680
captured the spirit of
the age of exploration.
241
00:29:06,760 --> 00:29:11,280
These first explorers borrowed
the techniques of the Arctic peoples.
242
00:29:12,520 --> 00:29:17,840
They wore fur gloves and boots
and burned seal blubber to keep warm.
243
00:29:19,920 --> 00:29:24,200
They built sleds based on a
traditional Inuit design.
244
00:29:30,040 --> 00:29:33,880
They even made their sleeping
bags from reindeer hide.
245
00:29:40,000 --> 00:29:45,639
Scott and his men sought the glory of
discovery in an untouched wilderness,
246
00:29:45,640 --> 00:29:48,319
and died in the attempt.
247
00:29:48,320 --> 00:29:52,079
But he, and those who followed him,
were the first to reveal
248
00:29:52,080 --> 00:29:55,240
the splendour of Antarctica to
the rest of the world.
249
00:30:03,400 --> 00:30:07,679
The lure of adventure still draws
intrepid travellers today.
250
00:30:07,680 --> 00:30:10,159
Like the first explorers,
251
00:30:10,160 --> 00:30:15,279
most modern visitors come during the
brief summer when the cold relents
252
00:30:15,280 --> 00:30:20,599
enough for the toughest icebreakers
to reach the edge of the continent,
253
00:30:20,600 --> 00:30:23,080
but most still need
a helicopter to go further.
254
00:30:32,240 --> 00:30:36,079
The scenery in Antarctica is
magnificent and dramatic,
255
00:30:36,080 --> 00:30:40,120
but what really attracts people
here is the wildlife.
256
00:30:42,440 --> 00:30:45,360
An emperor penguin colony is
a particular highlight.
257
00:30:49,720 --> 00:30:52,000
Because human beings
didn't arrive in the
258
00:30:52,001 --> 00:30:54,279
Antarctic until the
past few centuries,
259
00:30:54,280 --> 00:30:56,880
the animals have never
developed a fear of man.
260
00:31:01,160 --> 00:31:05,880
But very strict regulations govern how
close people can approach any wildlife.
261
00:31:07,760 --> 00:31:09,960
And when visitors
leave, they must take
262
00:31:09,961 --> 00:31:12,160
every trace of their
visit away with them.
263
00:31:39,960 --> 00:31:45,480
Since 1959, the whole of Antarctica has
been protected by international treaty.
264
00:31:47,280 --> 00:31:51,639
The nations of the world have agreed
that no country can claim Antarctica,
265
00:31:51,640 --> 00:31:53,800
or prospect for its oil or minerals.
266
00:31:56,880 --> 00:32:00,679
The only significant human activities
allowed here are those that
267
00:32:00,680 --> 00:32:03,440
extend our scientific knowledge.
268
00:32:07,480 --> 00:32:11,280
But unlocking Antarctica's secrets
requires some unusual tools.
269
00:32:29,520 --> 00:32:33,399
This brand new robot submarine has
been designed to go
270
00:32:33,400 --> 00:32:35,960
far beyond the limits of any human.
271
00:32:48,400 --> 00:32:51,220
Today, this diver is
putting the sub through
272
00:32:51,221 --> 00:32:54,040
its paces on one of
its very first dives.
273
00:32:55,360 --> 00:32:59,079
It's designed to be small
and nimble enough
274
00:32:59,080 --> 00:33:03,040
to explore the Antarctic seabed
without damaging it.
275
00:33:17,400 --> 00:33:21,759
The submarine's mission, as it
journeys into the unknown,
276
00:33:21,760 --> 00:33:25,120
is to map the seafloor and look for
species new to science.
277
00:33:40,680 --> 00:33:43,580
The seawater here is a
degree below zero, so even
278
00:33:43,581 --> 00:33:46,480
the toughest human diver
can't stay down for long.
279
00:33:50,080 --> 00:33:55,200
The submarine will explore deeper under
the ice than anyone has gone before.
280
00:33:59,840 --> 00:34:04,799
From the depths of the ocean to
the highest peaks of the land,
281
00:34:04,800 --> 00:34:07,580
new discoveries are being
made even in places
282
00:34:07,581 --> 00:34:10,360
which were first visited
over a century ago.
283
00:34:22,800 --> 00:34:25,580
Mount Erebus was an
irresistible draw to
284
00:34:25,581 --> 00:34:28,360
the legendary explorer
Ernest Shackleton.
285
00:34:29,560 --> 00:34:35,039
In 1908, his men became the first to
climb this active volcano.
286
00:34:35,040 --> 00:34:39,840
They soon discovered that this is the
coldest place on the Antarctic coast.
287
00:34:40,840 --> 00:34:42,960
Today's explorers
still have to guard
288
00:34:42,961 --> 00:34:45,079
against frostbite in
the height of summer
289
00:34:45,080 --> 00:34:48,760
when temperatures rarely creep
above minus 30 degrees centigrade.
290
00:34:54,720 --> 00:34:59,519
Shackleton's men had no idea
of the extraordinary spectacle
291
00:34:59,520 --> 00:35:01,840
that lay beneath their feet.
292
00:35:07,320 --> 00:35:09,919
Yep, OK, up on the wall there
somewhere now. Yeah.
293
00:35:09,920 --> 00:35:13,359
Under the ice and snow is a network
of caves,
294
00:35:13,360 --> 00:35:18,320
which only a handful of expert cavers
have ever dared to enter.
295
00:35:24,680 --> 00:35:29,880
This is the first scientific
expedition to explore them in detail.
296
00:35:35,320 --> 00:35:40,040
Here, there are ice formations that
occur nowhere else on Earth.
297
00:35:42,840 --> 00:35:46,960
Each cave contains its own unique
collection of structures.
298
00:36:14,480 --> 00:36:20,239
The team is mapping the caves to see how
their shape changes over the years.
299
00:36:20,240 --> 00:36:22,840
OK, flat side to here.
300
00:36:31,000 --> 00:36:36,039
That's 126.8 degrees for the angle.
301
00:36:36,040 --> 00:36:37,599
126.8. Correct.
302
00:36:37,600 --> 00:36:42,199
The steam leaking from vents
in the side of the volcano
303
00:36:42,200 --> 00:36:46,480
is constantly sculpting this labyrinth
that extends deep under the ice.
304
00:36:48,480 --> 00:36:52,239
When the hot breath of the volcano
hits the icy walls,
305
00:36:52,240 --> 00:36:55,960
the moisture in the air
freezes into beautiful shapes.
306
00:37:09,440 --> 00:37:14,199
Some of the crystals are so unusual
that the cavers are investigating
307
00:37:14,200 --> 00:37:17,680
a remote but tantalising
possibility about their formation.
308
00:37:20,360 --> 00:37:23,519
Could it be that some of these
extraordinary crystal shapes
309
00:37:23,520 --> 00:37:28,320
are formed by highly specialised
bacteria, living in the ice?
310
00:37:44,080 --> 00:37:46,439
Nobody yet knows the answer.
311
00:37:46,440 --> 00:37:50,279
This is just one of the many strange
mysteries that draw people to
312
00:37:50,280 --> 00:37:53,440
work in a place that is
so hostile to human life.
313
00:38:01,000 --> 00:38:05,839
While some scientists come to Erebus
to explore its bizarre ice caves,
314
00:38:05,840 --> 00:38:11,120
others visit the volcano to study
the innermost workings of our planet.
315
00:38:16,920 --> 00:38:20,799
Erebus is one of the most active
volcanoes on Earth,
316
00:38:20,800 --> 00:38:25,400
but even so, volcanologists work on
the very rim of its crater.
317
00:38:27,080 --> 00:38:31,879
They stand in the bitter cold,
while 100 metres below them
318
00:38:31,880 --> 00:38:35,360
is a lava lake where temperatures are
over a thousand degrees centigrade.
319
00:38:39,200 --> 00:38:42,080
This is a rare glimpse
of the molten rock
320
00:38:42,081 --> 00:38:44,960
that lies beneath
the earth's crust.
321
00:38:59,640 --> 00:39:03,119
But research here is looking
up as well as down,
322
00:39:03,120 --> 00:39:06,759
measuring how the gases that bubble
out of the volcano
323
00:39:06,760 --> 00:39:09,800
influence the make-up of the air we
breathe.
324
00:39:13,080 --> 00:39:18,319
Antarctica is the best place to
measure any changes in our atmosphere
325
00:39:18,320 --> 00:39:21,880
because it has the least polluted air
on Earth.
326
00:39:23,040 --> 00:39:28,080
It's also the perfect place to launch
more outward-looking missions.
327
00:39:33,920 --> 00:39:38,399
This balloon, made of material no
thicker than Clingfilm,
328
00:39:38,400 --> 00:39:41,400
will eventually grow to
be 300 metres tall.
329
00:39:44,520 --> 00:39:48,399
It will carry a device for detecting
cosmic rays,
330
00:39:48,400 --> 00:39:53,600
tiny particles from the beginning of
time that are only now reaching earth.
331
00:40:04,440 --> 00:40:09,439
The balloon will travel to the very
edge of outer space
332
00:40:09,440 --> 00:40:13,520
to gather clues about the formation
of the universe.
333
00:40:22,040 --> 00:40:26,960
Even today, very few ever make
the journey inland from the coast.
334
00:40:28,160 --> 00:40:32,600
We still know remarkably little
about the interior of the continent.
335
00:40:34,280 --> 00:40:39,519
The people on this plane are trying to
answer one of the fundamental questions.
336
00:40:39,520 --> 00:40:41,880
How much ice is there in Antarctica?
337
00:40:48,480 --> 00:40:50,839
They measure
the depth of the ice sheet,
338
00:40:50,840 --> 00:40:54,840
which is over 4,000 metres in places,
using radar.
339
00:40:56,760 --> 00:40:59,799
Their work will enable us to see
340
00:40:59,800 --> 00:41:03,080
how the volume of Antarctica's ice
changes in the future.
341
00:41:04,280 --> 00:41:07,800
It also makes it possible to map
a hidden landscape.
342
00:41:21,120 --> 00:41:26,799
This plane is following the same route
through the Trans-Antarctic Mountains
343
00:41:26,800 --> 00:41:29,919
that Captain Scott took a hundred
years ago.
344
00:41:29,920 --> 00:41:32,700
His team hauled their
sleds over a hundred
345
00:41:32,701 --> 00:41:35,480
miles up this glacier,
the Beardmore.
346
00:41:42,520 --> 00:41:46,839
Skirting seemingly endless crevasses,
with no map to guide them
347
00:41:46,840 --> 00:41:51,840
and no idea of what lay ahead, it was
a journey of extraordinary suffering.
348
00:42:02,880 --> 00:42:05,319
Their target lay beyond the
mountains,
349
00:42:05,320 --> 00:42:10,680
over 3,000 metres above sea level,
on the Antarctic Plateau.
350
00:42:17,280 --> 00:42:20,919
An unbroken sheet of ice,
larger than Western Europe,
351
00:42:20,920 --> 00:42:25,520
this is the coldest, the windiest,
the most lifeless place on Earth.
352
00:42:30,400 --> 00:42:34,759
Roald Amundsen's team narrowly
defeated Scott's to become
353
00:42:34,760 --> 00:42:41,000
the first people to reach the South
Pole on the 14th of December 1911.
354
00:42:42,160 --> 00:42:47,760
Nobody else successfully completed the
journey for nearly 50 years after that.
355
00:42:52,000 --> 00:42:56,599
But, since 1957, there has been
a permanent base at the South Pole.
356
00:42:56,600 --> 00:42:59,240
You can even land a plane on
the ice runway.
357
00:43:02,440 --> 00:43:05,260
The early explorers
would be astounded by
358
00:43:05,261 --> 00:43:08,080
the facilities at the
South Pole today.
359
00:43:11,360 --> 00:43:14,200
Construction work isn't
easy when the average
360
00:43:14,201 --> 00:43:17,040
summer temperature is minus
25 degrees Centigrade.
361
00:43:18,360 --> 00:43:21,919
But, despite the difficulties, the
most high-tech scientific research
362
00:43:21,920 --> 00:43:26,320
station ever built was
unveiled here in 2006.
363
00:43:32,080 --> 00:43:36,359
The brand new Amundsen-Scott South
Pole Station is designed to
364
00:43:36,360 --> 00:43:40,519
cope with the World's most
extreme conditions.
365
00:43:40,520 --> 00:43:45,879
The building's sloping edge deflects
the prevailing wind.
366
00:43:45,880 --> 00:43:49,439
Beneath, there are stilts that can
raise the whole building
367
00:43:49,440 --> 00:43:52,480
a further eight metres to keep
it above the accumulating snow.
368
00:44:01,280 --> 00:44:06,959
Living inside is as close to being on a
space-station as you can find on Earth.
369
00:44:06,960 --> 00:44:11,439
This base is totally self-sufficient,
the people are completely
370
00:44:11,440 --> 00:44:16,000
cut off from the outside world for
more than half the year over winter.
371
00:44:23,160 --> 00:44:27,520
The total darkness makes this the
perfect place to study the night sky.
372
00:44:35,520 --> 00:44:39,599
The group of star gazers will be
the most isolated community on our
373
00:44:39,600 --> 00:44:42,920
planet, but they will have
all their needs catered for.
374
00:44:48,520 --> 00:44:52,679
There is even a greenhouse where
fresh vegetables grow under
375
00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:57,360
artificial light all through
the darkest, coldest winter anywhere.
376
00:45:13,960 --> 00:45:18,920
The sun sets in March at the South Pole,
and won't rise again for six months.
377
00:45:25,040 --> 00:45:29,999
For a few days at this time of year,
high altitude clouds of ice crystals
378
00:45:30,000 --> 00:45:32,380
continue to catch the
sunlight, even when
379
00:45:32,381 --> 00:45:34,760
the sun itself is far
below the horizon.
380
00:45:52,360 --> 00:45:55,559
But soon all trace of the sun
disappears,
381
00:45:55,560 --> 00:46:00,760
and today's over-wintering scientists
remember the first explorers.
382
00:46:05,120 --> 00:46:09,159
These men, who endured
the winter in flimsy wooden huts,
383
00:46:09,160 --> 00:46:13,559
borrowed knowledge from the Arctic
pioneers before them,
384
00:46:13,560 --> 00:46:19,279
but they came here to study and explore,
rather than to hunt or exploit.
385
00:46:19,280 --> 00:46:24,280
They embodied the human spirit that has
enabled us to survive at the poles.
386
00:46:30,120 --> 00:46:33,799
Here, we are pushed to our limits,
but in being pushed, humanity has
387
00:46:33,800 --> 00:46:39,400
achieved the extraordinary
and opened up the last frontier.
388
00:46:56,920 --> 00:47:00,639
To tell the story of how we survive
at the Poles, Frozen Planet
389
00:47:00,640 --> 00:47:03,239
travelled to Siberia,
the far north of Russia,
390
00:47:03,240 --> 00:47:06,800
where most of the Arctic's
people live.
391
00:47:09,440 --> 00:47:12,120
The team got to know many
extraordinary people.
392
00:47:14,880 --> 00:47:18,839
But one group of men above all really
opened their eyes to what it means
393
00:47:18,840 --> 00:47:23,440
to live off the land in the most
unforgiving environment on earth.
394
00:47:25,960 --> 00:47:29,480
Men who take their life in their hands
everyday, just to find their food.
395
00:47:41,720 --> 00:47:44,480
Producer, Dan Rees,
led the Frozen Planet
396
00:47:44,481 --> 00:47:47,240
team on their longest
journey in the Arctic.
397
00:47:49,160 --> 00:47:51,780
Their mission was to
film walrus hunters
398
00:47:51,781 --> 00:47:54,399
in Russia's most remote
region, Chukotka,
399
00:47:54,400 --> 00:47:57,759
the closest point to their old enemy
the United States,
400
00:47:57,760 --> 00:48:00,560
4,000 miles and nine time zones east
of Moscow.
401
00:48:03,240 --> 00:48:05,599
It's still a sensitive region,
402
00:48:05,600 --> 00:48:07,920
and the team soon learn
that the border guards
403
00:48:07,921 --> 00:48:10,239
remain twitchy about
foreigners with cameras.
404
00:48:10,240 --> 00:48:12,400
Nyet! Nyet!
405
00:48:17,120 --> 00:48:21,159
To get permission to film, the crew
relied on anthropologist Niobe Thompson,
406
00:48:21,160 --> 00:48:24,400
one of the few westerners
to have worked with the people here.
407
00:48:28,000 --> 00:48:30,400
But even Niobe finds
a lot of doors closed to him.
408
00:48:32,240 --> 00:48:38,359
I have experienced a level of red
tape I never could have anticipated.
409
00:48:38,360 --> 00:48:41,119
We've got our Russian
visas in our passports,
410
00:48:41,120 --> 00:48:43,799
that's fine,
but that's just the beginning.
411
00:48:43,800 --> 00:48:47,599
Here is the special permission
given by the security services to
412
00:48:47,600 --> 00:48:50,479
be in the region of Chukotka,
413
00:48:50,480 --> 00:48:53,380
a special permission to
be in every one of the
414
00:48:53,381 --> 00:48:56,279
population centres we
will visit on our trip,
415
00:48:56,280 --> 00:49:00,639
permission to shoot with a
telephoto lens,
416
00:49:00,640 --> 00:49:05,639
permission to shoot from a
helicopter,
417
00:49:05,640 --> 00:49:09,639
permission to shoot in
a natural reserve,
418
00:49:09,640 --> 00:49:12,159
but we still don't have our
migration cards.
419
00:49:12,160 --> 00:49:15,439
I'm trying to get them, and if we
don't get them by the end of the day
420
00:49:15,440 --> 00:49:17,620
we're going to be
deported back to Alaska,
421
00:49:17,621 --> 00:49:19,799
it'll take three months
to get new ones.
422
00:49:19,800 --> 00:49:22,039
Niobe's paper chase takes two days,
423
00:49:22,040 --> 00:49:26,639
but finally the team is allowed to begin
their journey to the hunters' camp.
424
00:49:26,640 --> 00:49:29,919
With no roads, sometimes the only
passable route is over
425
00:49:29,920 --> 00:49:33,120
the fast melting
surfaces of the lakes.
426
00:49:43,240 --> 00:49:44,760
OK?
427
00:49:49,240 --> 00:49:51,640
They need to be
prepared for a quick exit.
428
00:49:59,280 --> 00:50:03,399
The next day the crew finally
reach the coast.
429
00:50:03,400 --> 00:50:05,960
The hunting camp is now
just 30 miles away
430
00:50:05,961 --> 00:50:08,519
across a bay, but the
crossing could be risky.
431
00:50:08,520 --> 00:50:13,320
The frozen sea is melting
fast in the spring sunshine.
432
00:50:18,560 --> 00:50:21,679
Confident it's safe? It's not going
to break underneath us?
433
00:50:21,680 --> 00:50:24,519
Is that the decision, 50/50?
434
00:50:24,520 --> 00:50:26,639
50/50!
435
00:50:26,640 --> 00:50:29,999
The locals employ several generations
of arctic transport,
436
00:50:30,000 --> 00:50:32,600
from the ancient to the merely
antique.
437
00:50:36,920 --> 00:50:41,479
With the sea ice cracking up beneath
them, Dan has to trust the crew
438
00:50:41,480 --> 00:50:45,040
and a ton of filming gear to
the experience of the locals.
439
00:50:46,480 --> 00:50:50,040
Even by their standards this was
fast becoming a risky journey.
440
00:50:55,920 --> 00:50:59,600
Where the first sleds crossed just
minutes before is now impassable.
441
00:51:05,280 --> 00:51:08,599
It's broken right up, we can't cross
the leads in the ice here,
442
00:51:08,600 --> 00:51:10,840
so we need to get on some
boats, and the ice is
443
00:51:10,841 --> 00:51:13,079
just breaking up too fast
for us at the moment.
444
00:51:13,080 --> 00:51:16,799
Fortunately, the hunters from the
camp turn up in the nick of time
445
00:51:16,800 --> 00:51:20,760
to rescue the crew for the final leg
of the journey.
446
00:51:30,920 --> 00:51:33,879
Six days and 5,000 miles from home,
447
00:51:33,880 --> 00:51:36,280
the crew finally arrive
at the place that
448
00:51:36,281 --> 00:51:38,680
will be their home
for the next month.
449
00:51:45,480 --> 00:51:48,999
This is an active hunting camp
and, that evening, the team
450
00:51:49,000 --> 00:51:52,880
are introduced to the realities of
fending for yourself in the Arctic.
451
00:51:55,280 --> 00:51:57,879
Well, we've just seen a walrus hunt
452
00:51:57,880 --> 00:52:01,719
out here in the waters
of the Bering Sea.
453
00:52:01,720 --> 00:52:03,680
All the meat will be
eaten, they eat an
454
00:52:03,681 --> 00:52:05,639
awful lot of the
internal organs as well,
455
00:52:05,640 --> 00:52:08,159
they use the skin,
they use the sinews,
456
00:52:08,160 --> 00:52:12,919
they use the stomach for making drums,
so it'll get used very heavily
457
00:52:12,920 --> 00:52:18,240
and it is completely free range,
you know, wild caught animal.
458
00:52:19,600 --> 00:52:24,919
You can't grow any vegetables up
here, but sea mammal meat contains
459
00:52:24,920 --> 00:52:29,399
all the nutrients the hunters need
and is very low in cholesterol.
460
00:52:29,400 --> 00:52:32,319
Dan is keen to try
some of Kolya's health food.
461
00:52:32,320 --> 00:52:37,319
Well, this is yesterday's seal
and a chunk of flesh there,
462
00:52:37,320 --> 00:52:39,879
behind it is some intestine.
463
00:52:39,880 --> 00:52:42,119
We should try a bit.
464
00:52:42,120 --> 00:52:44,800
That's seal intestine.
465
00:52:48,600 --> 00:52:51,799
It's quite fishy.
Fishy, fishy rubber.
466
00:52:51,800 --> 00:52:53,900
That's not too bad.
I thought it was going
467
00:52:53,901 --> 00:52:55,999
to be more disgusting
than it actually is.
468
00:52:56,000 --> 00:52:59,399
The salt helps. Yeah.
469
00:52:59,400 --> 00:53:02,879
Would he like to try what we eat?
It's chicken, chicken korma.
470
00:53:02,880 --> 00:53:04,839
No?
471
00:53:04,840 --> 00:53:08,800
I don't blame you to be honest,
yours is much better!
472
00:53:15,040 --> 00:53:20,719
As well as providing food, the animals
here traditionally provided transport.
473
00:53:20,720 --> 00:53:23,999
Kolya and Pasha, the oldest hunters,
474
00:53:24,000 --> 00:53:27,039
keep alive the skill
of building walrus skin boats.
475
00:53:27,040 --> 00:53:29,639
You don't need a welding torch to
repair this boat,
476
00:53:29,640 --> 00:53:33,440
just a juicy lump of seal fat to bung
any holes.
477
00:53:35,840 --> 00:53:40,279
By living amongst them, the crew had
really begun to get to know the hunters,
478
00:53:40,280 --> 00:53:43,800
but there was one big part of their
lives which remained a mystery.
479
00:53:47,320 --> 00:53:50,140
As spring turns to
summer, the hunters head
480
00:53:50,141 --> 00:53:52,959
out to an island to
gather seabird eggs.
481
00:53:52,960 --> 00:53:55,600
The crew had heard
stories of this, but had
482
00:53:55,601 --> 00:53:58,240
little idea of what it
was going to involve.
483
00:54:00,480 --> 00:54:04,239
That's where they climb,
those are impressive heights.
484
00:54:04,240 --> 00:54:05,480
Quite something.
485
00:54:10,000 --> 00:54:12,700
For cameraman Ted Giffords,
this was the first
486
00:54:12,701 --> 00:54:15,400
sight of the rock face
he was about to work on.
487
00:54:19,560 --> 00:54:22,200
These cliffs can be
treacherous, as Kolya, the
488
00:54:22,201 --> 00:54:24,840
expert egg collector,
knows only too well.
489
00:54:51,840 --> 00:54:54,760
Ted will rely on steel
stakes for anchors
490
00:54:54,761 --> 00:54:57,680
and an array of climbing
gear and ropes.
491
00:54:59,000 --> 00:55:01,860
Kolya preferred to
stick with the simpler
492
00:55:01,861 --> 00:55:04,720
method that has served
him well for many years.
493
00:55:10,840 --> 00:55:14,240
The crew can't quite believe what
they're seeing.
494
00:55:20,840 --> 00:55:25,439
If he fell on that that would be
absolutely horrendous.
495
00:55:25,440 --> 00:55:30,039
It's... yeah, it's a bit sketchy, and
the rope is only about that thick.
496
00:55:30,040 --> 00:55:31,960
It's an interesting method.
497
00:55:33,160 --> 00:55:35,740
The limestone cliff is loose
and crumbling, because
498
00:55:35,741 --> 00:55:38,320
of hundreds of years of
freezing and thawing.
499
00:55:40,600 --> 00:55:43,100
Even for a highly
trained professional
500
00:55:43,101 --> 00:55:45,600
climber like Ted, it's
a dangerous descent.
501
00:55:55,360 --> 00:56:00,199
Kolya has been climbing here for four
decades, but this is the first time
502
00:56:00,200 --> 00:56:03,840
he's had company, and sometimes he
forgets that Ted is just below him.
503
00:56:07,680 --> 00:56:11,279
Climbing supervisor Adam Scott
holds his breath as he watches.
504
00:56:11,280 --> 00:56:16,120
A fall to the rocks 100 metres below
would almost certainly be fatal.
505
00:56:25,720 --> 00:56:29,800
This is the most hardcore
thing I've ever seen.
506
00:56:34,200 --> 00:56:37,279
It was when the team returned
to the boat to finish filming
507
00:56:37,280 --> 00:56:39,800
that they got their most
spectacular view of the
508
00:56:39,801 --> 00:56:42,320
lengths Kolya was going
to to get his dinner.
509
00:56:47,440 --> 00:56:51,839
This shot sent the team home with
a fresh perspective and a deep
510
00:56:51,840 --> 00:56:57,079
respect for these people who still
live off the land in the Arctic.
511
00:56:57,080 --> 00:57:00,160
A way of life for which there
is no safety net.
47203
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