All language subtitles for 1. Top Tip 01

So, I've got a top tip for shooting handheld

in really, really, really, really slow, low light,

slow shutter situations.

And I've got a number of examples of pictures

that I've done in it,

probably most pertinent is a picture that I took

of Johnny Depp in the back of a moving car on a 70 mil lens.

And, I shot the picture handheld at,

I think, an eighth of a second.

Now, ordinarily, that just wouldn't be possible.

But what I did is I did this trick, right?

And the trick is set your camera to modes drive,

hold very still,

breathe out,

and as you breathe out, fire three shots.

And when you fire three shots,

the first shot has got a bit of wobble

'cause your finger's moving the camera.

The second shot is your shot.

That should, if you get it right, be pin sharp.

And then your third shot has a bit of movement,

'cause you've taken your finger off the shutter.

If you can do that best, (mimics camera shutter clicking)

the middle shot should be sharp.

And, actually, I think in that Johnny Depp image,

I may have shot a burst of 12 or 15 frames

'cause I'm in a car that's moving.

But, within that,

we found several pictures that were pin sharp

in absolutely zero light conditions.

In fact, the light in that picture

is one of those crappy little LED lights

that you get above a door in a car.

So you can imagine how low that was

to get a picture like that on a portrait lens,

in a moving car at night.

There's a sort of rule of thumb with shutter speeds.

And if you're on like a 28 mil lens,

you can hold still at about a 28th of a second.

Now, of course, no camera shoots at 28th of a second.

So, you'd go to a 30th of a second.

But what it means is that you can pretty much be sure

that you can get a still image on a 28 mil lens

at a 30th of a second.

In contrast, if you're on, say, a 90 mil lens,

you'd wanna be no slower than a 90th of a second

to also get a still frame on that lens.