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welcome back to Bear Mountain builds I'm
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Zach and today I'm going to show you how
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to build this miter saw table for less
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than 150 dollars
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[Music]
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seriously my old miter saw table was
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just a countertop and some stacked two
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by fours that's why I built this it's
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strong easy to build and best of all
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costs less than 150 dollars I think you
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guys are going to really like this and
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if you do hit the like button and while
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you're at it the Subscribe button too
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because I've got more projects coming
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now here's what we're going to need for
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the job
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foreign
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[Music]
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for a project like this I like to use
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two by fours since it's an inexpensive
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wood but they do have rounded edges so I
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like to run them through my planer to
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crisp them up
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I moved on to cutting out all the
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individual frame pieces it's pretty
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obvious why I need a miter saw table
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since I've got four by fours propping up
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the ends of each board this also
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required cutting a lot of similar
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lengths so a stop block Would Have Made
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It Go much faster instead of measuring
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each piece individually my plans show
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all the dimensions as well as the most
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efficient way to cut out the nine
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different lengths out of the 16 2x4s
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[Music]
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foreign
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the front legs are made up of one longer
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board attached to a short one forming a
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notch where the horizontal cross piece
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attaches I do like a lot of glue it'll
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run out the sides but it's an easy
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cleanup
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[Music]
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make sure to flush up the bottoms and
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clamp everything together
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foreign
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drill holes and use three inch deck
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screws to make sure it's not going
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anywhere
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thank you
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foreign
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[Music]
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the back legs are similar to the front
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legs except there is a notch at the top
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and bottom you'll want to make sure to
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use two cut off pieces of spacers to
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position the shorter board
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and I still like glue
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pay attention to which side I'm putting
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the screws in this way the screws will
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all go in on the back side and won't be
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visible from the front
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[Music]
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so I'm using the pocket hole screws to
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connect the leg assemblies you don't
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need to do this but it's actually a
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stronger connection method than screwing
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into the end of the board since it goes
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across the wood grain
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I'm using the Craig pocket hole jig
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which I really like because it makes
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these pocket holes really fast and easy
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I have a link in the description if you
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want to check it out
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after the holes are drilled in the cross
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pieces it's time to attach them to the
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verticals as you'll see later in the
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video there are two versions of the leg
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assemblies the difference is the
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placement of the Cross piece
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and by the way I have inexpensive plans
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available for this project they have all
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the dimensions and step-by-step assembly
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instructions to go along with this video
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that link is also in the description
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[Music]
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foreign
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[Music]
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this is the longer left side table you
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can see how the cross pieces I attached
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are on the outside of the table base
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assembly there are three notches for the
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horizontal cross pieces I left the
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bottom front open for storage reasons as
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you'll see later Corners are glued and
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then screws are put in from the back
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I should mention I've designed this
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table to be about three inches higher
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than a normal countertop height since I
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am six foot four but you can always
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shorten these legs if you want to bring
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down the overall height
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make sure you spend your time to square
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everything up both vertically and
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horizontally it'll pay off later I
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promise this is also where I found out
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how uneven my shop floor is
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[Music]
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foreign
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[Music]
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so I can fit in this chest so we're
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gonna see how it fits
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[Music]
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like a dream
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I space the supports evenly across the
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length of the table I added glue and
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then screwed them in place of pocket
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screws this really keeps the look of the
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front board nice and clean
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[Music]
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I won't show the assembly but I built
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the right hand table which is identical
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except it's slightly shorter in length
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[Music]
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I designed the center saw platform as a
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separate piece in case I get a different
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saw someday this will make it easy to
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create a platform to fit a new saw
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foreign
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[Music]
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I decided to go with black melanin as a
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surface for two reasons one and most
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importantly it looks cool and two the
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surface is kind of slick so it's easier
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to slide when I'm cutting into place
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you want to make sure you have a clean
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Edge on the black and I found I was
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getting some chipping from the circular
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saw so I ended up cutting the top out
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using my router two passes with a
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straight bit gave me a beautiful clean
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Edge
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first cut to the right depth and then
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trim to the proper width foreign
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foreign
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has a particle board Center this doesn't
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give the edge I want so I'm adding some
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Poplar trim to give it a more finished
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look
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[Music]
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I ripped the trim down to three quarters
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inch then glued and Brad nailed it into
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place
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[Music]
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foreign
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up the ends and used a flush cut pole
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saw to cut off the excess
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I laid down one inch painters tape on
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the edges as a spacer then pre-drilled
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the holes every six inches using a
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countersink drill bit I really don't
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need this many screws but I think it
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looks cool so I did it
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I wanted my screws to match the black
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melamine surface so I decided to use two
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inch black sheetrock screws
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[Music]
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I brought in My Big Buddy Marcus for
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some extra muscle to help move the two
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tables into place
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I snugged up the soft platform in
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between the two tables and used four
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clamps to temporarily hold the platform
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in place and make minor leveling
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adjustments
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once the saw base was in position I used
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eight screws to lock the platform in
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okay
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[Music]
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I cut two melamine fence boards to
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length for each side
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this is my first time using the saw on
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the new table and I gotta say it's
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pretty nice
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[Music]
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using extra pieces of 2x4 I cut seven 45
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degree triangles to be braces for the
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fences
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foreign
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along with the braces tacked everything
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together then finished by countersinking
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the screws flush with the surface
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foreign
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[Music]
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thank you
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foreign
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the level of the saw base with some
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washers and screwed it into place
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[Music]
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using an eight foot straight edge I
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positioned the fences in line with the
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saw marked the positions with tape and
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clamped them into place
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[Music]
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foreign
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I drilled one quarter inch pilot holes
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then drilled larger holes in the table
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top for the threaded insert
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also make sure to offset the holes from
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the fence far enough to allow for space
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for the knob to spin
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I'm using one quarter inch 20 by 15
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millimeter threaded wood inserts I
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cranked in the threaded inserts making
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sure to use a fair amount of glue on the
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threads to help strengthen the particle
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board you want to make sure that these
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threaded inserts are snug but if you
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torque them down too hard they will tear
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out of the board
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I ran a one-quarter inch Bolt from Below
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in all the inserts I'm using Hardware
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from the power Tech t-track knob kit
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also linked below which will make it
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easy for me to remove the fences if I
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need more work surface finally I drop
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the fences in and tighten down the knobs
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as you can see I installed a Rockler
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t-track to use as an easy bench stop but
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if you're tight on a budget it's really
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easy to use a square piece of 2x4 and
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clamp it to the fence and will work
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perfectly as a stop
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with that this miter saw table is done
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if you're interested I do have another
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short video that shows how I installed
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this t-track into the table I have a
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link in the description the new miter
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saw table works great and I've really
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enjoyed having it in the shop so far and
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hey if this video helped you in any way
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hit the like button also I Am brand new
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to YouTube and I'm still trying to
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figure things out so I'd really like to
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hear from you down in the comments about
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how I'm doing and remember hit the
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Subscribe button because I've got lots
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more projects coming thanks for watching
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and I'll see you next time16400
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