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[Music]
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hi I'm Nicki angler author of
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woodworking wisdom and a few other
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woodworking books and I'm going to show
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you a few professional secrets tips and
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techniques that will improve the ease
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and accuracy of your table sawing
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operations got a crosscut aboard to a
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specific length so first of all you
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measure that length in this case I'm
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just gonna measure 12 inches make a mark
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at 12 and then I always like to take a
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square and extend that mark at least a
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inch or two so I can make sure that the
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cut is following the line now how do you
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line up your mark with the saw blade
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well you can eyeball it and hope you're
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on right on the money and you almost
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never are some people like to to move
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the wood a little past the cut and then
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creep up on it making successive cuts
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until they finally get weather where
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they're going but there's a much simpler
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way you can simply take your square put
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it right on your mark and then move the
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wood until it just touches the tooth of
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the blade there we go
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we're lined up to make the cut
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like I said right on the money okay how
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do you know that the cuts you make are
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perfectly square and that your miter
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gauge is set to a perfect 90 degrees
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well you can use a square of course and
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a fence as long as the fence is parallel
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to the blade you can use a square to
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check that your miter gauge is square to
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your fence so that's pretty close but
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it's not precision to absolutely be sure
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take a scrap of wood we're going to make
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an X somewhere in the middle of that
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scrap and we're going to cut through the
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X
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okay now we're going to take this scrap
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and we're gonna put it against the fence
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which we know is perfectly straight okay
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now that goes together pretty darn good
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but if I flip it it should also go
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together
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up there's a gap there's a small gap
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right there against the edge that's
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against the fence at the face okay
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if that happens I've got to move my
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miter gauge counterclockwise just a hair
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now that should be square
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if the gap had been on the other side
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away from the fence I would have had to
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move the miter gauge clockwise let's try
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this once more and more time and see if
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I've corrected the problem
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there you go perfect
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[Music]
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when you're ripping a piece of wood and
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the wood has been properly dried or
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sometimes it's just the wood itself the
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kerf the cut left by the blade will
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begin to close behind the blade and
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pinch the blade this is due to what is
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called reaction wood there are tensions
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in the wood that cause the wood to
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distort as you relieve it by cutting it
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now if you don't have a splitter and
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this is a problem for you you can keep a
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few wedges handy and put those in the
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cut behind the blade show you
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just start the cut let the blade come to
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a full stop put the wedge in there we go
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[Music]
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[Applause]
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that's it
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[Music]
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every now and then you may have to cut a
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piece of plastic on your table saw and
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it's very unlikely that you'll be
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keeping a plastic blade around because
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it's so infrequent but don't worry you
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can make a good cut in plastic with a
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plywood blade or something with a lot of
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teeth just turn the blade around so the
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teeth are facing backwards this helps
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clear the guts so you don't they don't
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get filled up with plastic shavings and
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begin to melt making a burned crispy cut
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here I'll show you I've got a plywood
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blade on here and as you can see the
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teeth are facing away from the direction
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of the cut
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[Music]
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[Laughter]
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now we had a little melting going one
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you can see that these pieces have have
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fused but the cut itself is real clean
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[Music]
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you want to make a bevel rip and it's
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got to be precise very accurate that
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means you have to tilt the saw blade to
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a precise angle now the old way to do
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this what's to use a sliding T bevel and
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a projector now let's say that we want
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to tilt this to tilt at 22 and 1/2
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degrees the blade is actually set at 90
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degrees so 22 and 1/2 from 90 is 67 and
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1/2 so we set the protractor to 67 and
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1/2 degrees and we take the sliding T
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bevel and we set that to the same angle
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now we're going to tilt the saw blade
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until the edge of the sliding T bevel
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touches the blade all along the face and
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right there is pretty good ok that's not
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a bad way to do it but you can get a lot
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more accurate if you have an inkling
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ok these measure these measure the angle
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digitally and the measure to a tenth of
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a degree now we're going to take this
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got it turned on here
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and we're going to zero this out first
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of all now I've got it turned away from
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me so I'm gonna have to ask my buddy
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Travis to see if that is on 0.0 ok all
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right
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he says I got it now I'm gonna put this
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on the blade and what am i reading right
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now sixty seven point six so I'm a tenth
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of a degree off ok that may not seem
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like a like a lot but if we were making
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an octagon which which has mitered
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angles of 22 and 1/2 degrees all the way
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around that's 8 angles and by the time
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we get to the last angle
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we'd be almost 1/8 of a where we would
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be point 8 degrees off almost an entire
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degree off enough to show a gap so we're
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going to let's see I'm going to turn
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this just a little bit and try to get to
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67 and a half
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tell me if I'm good I'm going in the
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right direction is that the right
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direction or the wrong direction
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wrong direction okay let's go back tell
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me who right there
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okay 67 and a half degrees precisely
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[Music]
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you can also use this in kilometer to
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set the miter gauge precisely if you
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want to just take the miter gauge itself
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and you'll notice I have an extension on
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it clamp the extension to the saw table
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there we go now we'll take the inclined
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honor we'll zero this out yeah it's
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already at zero and then we stick it to
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the miter gauge and it should read
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ninety and it comes awfully close now
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we're going to angle the miter gauge and
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let's do sixty seven and a half degrees
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like we did with the blade angle we're
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okay that's what sixty six point four
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come back a little bit sixty seven point
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three point four because it when I turn
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type it down sixty seven point four oh
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there we go sixty seven point five so
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now when I cut with this I'll be making
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a twenty-two and a half degree angle
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[Music]11968
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