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Giulia, thank you for joining us.
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It's great to have you here,
as merchandising manager for accessories.
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To really get your insights into the more
sort of commercial focus, I suppose.
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So the Rollagas collection is very unique.
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I think it stands out really
well against the overall leather offer
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we have at dunhill.
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So I just wondered
could you tell us a little bit more
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about the strategy behind the investment
in the pieces that you've made?
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Yeah, absolutely, thanks Gyles.
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So Rollagas is one of two key pillars
that we're introducing in leather goods.
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The second one will follow in late SS23.
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Right
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And as you said, it has a very,
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very distinctive language and set of codes
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Yep
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and very important to remember.
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It's a pillar
that we want to continue long term.
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So it will become part exactly
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of our permanent offer
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Yep
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And within the Rollagas pillar, actually.
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And you see it represented
really well here.
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Yeah
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We have the more elevated pieces
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Yep
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represented by the Rollagas Lock clip.
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Yep
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And this is more the really, really
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beautiful pieces with the quilted leather,
the very distinctive Lock Clip.
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Yep
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And you will see here in particular
the backpack, which is our hero piece.
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I love this piece.
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Yeah, it's really beautiful.
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So we use this piece
extensively in marketing.
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We've really pushed it and it's out hero
piece for the whole collection.
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Yep
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But in addition to Lock Clip,
which is more of the elevated offer,
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we also have a core offer
which we're expecting
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the majority of the volume to be driven
on
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Yep
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which is our Rollagas.
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Yep, yeah
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And so in terms of investment
being Rollagas a key pillar
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and a long term permanent pillar
within our leather goods range,
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we invested very heavily
on the whole Rollagas pillar.
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Yep
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Obviously the majority of the investment
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has gone on the core collection
of the Rollagas embossed leather.
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Yep
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But being the Rollagas
Lock Clip, was very important
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from a marketing point
of view
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Yep
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communication point of view.
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Yep
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We also invested well into these pieces.
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Yep
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So I think it's these
pieces are going to really drive the sales.
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Exactly! Yes, absolutely.
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And they look fantastic.
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I think it's something that our sales advisors can really get behind as well.
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It's great storytelling!
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It is great.
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There's a really good story.
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And actually, like you said, that
kind of the stand out, the stand out piece
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works really well for the marketing
as well and hopefully will draw people in.
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You know,
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and you know, these commercial pieces,
I think a lot of the sales are going to be
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coming from.
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Yeah, definitely.
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So as you said, this kind of Rollagas
Lock Clip, we expect it to really create
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desirability, generate interest and buzz,
and then we know a lot of customers
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will be drawn in by this beautiful piece
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Yep
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but maybe then they will also be
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really attracted by the more kind of core,
versatile
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Yep
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super functional
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and slightly lower price
point pieces of the Rollagas embossed.
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Exactly! Yeah, brilliant, thank you.
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There is a great selection of pieces
in the collection.
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Can you explain a little bit
about why each of these styles was chosen?
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Yeah, absolutely.
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So within
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Rollagas first of all, I should say that
all of the shapes we selected
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because we felt they were really well
aligned in the spirit of the collection,
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so very masculine
but still functional, versatile pieces
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which are well suited
to a kind of metropolitan city lifestyle.
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Yeah
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Within the Rollagas collection
so the embossed leather
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we selected four LLG shapes,
so you can see them here, three crossbody's
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Mmm hmm
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starting with iconic Top Handle bag
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Yep
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and then moving onto
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the Small Flap Messenger
and the little West End
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Sure
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Bag
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Those are the three crossbody's
as you can see,
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they're all pretty different
from each other.
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Different price points, different
occasions of use, different dimensions.
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We selected these
because we've seen them perform really,
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really well and have been very successful
in other collections.
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Yeah
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And of course,
we know that other competitors have them
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and they work super well.
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And in addition to that, because we still
have request for a more business, formal
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occasional shape,
we also have a single document case.
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Yeah
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Always a best seller!
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Exactly, yes, exactly.
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Always a best seller.
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But we've seen really,
really great traction on the crossbody's.
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Right!
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So for example, the Top Handle bag
we've seen incredible reaction
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from customers,
so it's really great to see.
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Yeah
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And then
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if we move onto an LLG for the Rollagas
Lock Clip.
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Right
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So this being the more elevated,
the more desirability driving collection
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within the Rollagas pillar,
we went for two shapes,
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more casual-smart shapes
with a contemporary mood.
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Yep
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So you see here the beautiful backpack
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Love it!
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which we say is
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the hero piece, is very, very nice. Yes.
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Yeah
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And the flat messenger
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Yeah
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So more kind of casual
to create that kind of
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strong buzz and generate interest.
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And then if we finish off SLG, we mustn't
forget about SLG's
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Exactly, of course!
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And so within SLG,
the selection of the shapes,
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were really driven
by what performs in our stores.
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Yeah
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So we think it's a strong selection
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of coat wallets,
compact wallets and card cases.
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Yeah
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So you can have all functionalities
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Yeah
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Respond to different
needs in terms of price point
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Yeah
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In terms of occasion of use and so on.
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Yeah, it's great!
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And actually know what I like,
is the two colours as well.
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Yes!
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And actually kind of starting
off the collection with the two colours,
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Is that something a little bit kind of different?
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Yes, yes, exactly.
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So obviously, the black will always be
a core best selling colourway,
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but sometimes just black alone on display
can look quite dark and not as enticing,
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not as eye catching.
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Yeah
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So we're really, really happy
of how this grey colourway turned out.
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Yeah
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And you probably pointed out before,
but we're really, really
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happy with
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the black contrast detailing the edge
paint
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The edge paint painting! Yeah
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It gives us a bit more of a masculine
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feel, but it's still quite nice and eye
catching on the display.
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I think it works pretty well, so this is
really exciting for AW22, what's next?
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Is there something else
coming for spring summer 23.
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That absolutely is Gyles,
So for SS23, actually, because we said
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this is a permanent collection, it's
something we want to continue working on.
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We've already worked on additional shapes,
so you will see them here.
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We have the North-South tote
and then we also have the Belt bag.
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Fantastic!
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So both of them are super functional,
good price points, really interesting
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Yeah
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and can adapt
to different occasions of use.
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Yeah
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And they really extend the collection
and work well with the existing pieces.
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Exactly
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Yeah
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And as you can see, we're really focused
on more casual shapes.
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Yeah
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for this collection, as we feel
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they are more aligned
to the spirit of the collection.
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Yeah
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And we've seen as well in competition
that all of the men's
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competition brands are moving more towards
those casual, smart-casual shapes.
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Yep
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So we think that Rollagas is the perfect
collection to tap into that trend.
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Well, thank you very much, really great
insights and thank you for coming along.
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It was a pleasure.
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Thank you
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Miriam, thank you very much for joining us,
as the merchandising manager for menswear.
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We really looking forward to your insights
into the more commercial side
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of the collection.
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Now Rollagas of course, is a key
part of the of the collection this season.
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I just wondered whether you
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will be able to tell us a little bit more
about the buy strategy behind the pieces?
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Yeah, of course.
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So as previously mentioned with Lesa,
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we brief every season
with more kind of indication
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on brand identifiers, which is where,
you know, where our brand or product
200
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can be eaisly identified,
especially on outerwear.
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Yeah
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It's very easy through the branding,
through the details.
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So with Rollagas, we did feel like
it really embraced our heritage
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and our brand aesthetic and identity,
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taking items from the archive
and reusing it in a certain way.
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So in terms of the buy strategy,
we really want to embrace that.
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So we wanted to go in strong
with the whole group
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and have a solid representation
globally of the whole group.
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It links seamlessly
between product categories as well.
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So outerwear, knitwear
and you have seen accessories.
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Yeah
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So buying all of those globally
and make sure
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that they are represented in stores
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and that it also obviously
allows for natural cross-selling
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between the categories as well.
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Very easy to kind of build products
to build that look up.
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Yeah
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So on top of that,
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with strong storytelling behind it,
we wanted to build desirability.
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So very much highlighting
star products within the groups
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and then with the strong storytelling,
it would kind of build on that
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and ensure that we are kind of
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building the group out and desirability
in terms of all of our customers
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and getting them to be more interested.
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00:08:54,360 --> 00:08:55,640
Yeah. Exactly.
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00:08:55,640 --> 00:08:57,720
I think for me
actually the whole storytelling
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element is a really key thing.
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I think what's been very successful
about this collection is that strong story
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that sits behind everything we've seen
that's in leather as well,
230
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and then in menswear pieces,
that very strong identification
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and the ability
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to tell the story and like you said,
being able to mix and match and cross-sell
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Yeah, it's really it's amazing
that we could actually take something
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that was a very much
an archive piece.
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Yeah
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An interesting dunhill unique piece,
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Yeah
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and actually be able to
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use that across leather goods
and then also outerwear and knitwear
240
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and you know, actually RTW
which is usually a hard thing to do,
241
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Yeah, yeah
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but we've managed to kind of seamlessly
link it all together
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Yeah
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and it will allow easily for a natural
cross-selling in stores with customers.
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You kind of build the whole
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look with it and it doesn't have to be
just the outerwear, it can just be like,
247
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you know, underpinnings, like shirts
as well with the leather goods.
248
00:09:45,840 --> 00:09:48,760
So it's a really nice way that we kind
of embraced it, which is great.
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00:09:48,760 --> 00:09:50,040
Fantastic, thank you very much.
250
00:09:50,480 --> 00:09:53,120
So we've got a few selection of
of pieces here.
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So I'm just interested to find out
what makes the options for this season
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differ
from what we've seen in previous seasons.
253
00:10:01,840 --> 00:10:02,120
Okay
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00:10:02,120 --> 00:10:03,680
So in terms of quilting,
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I mean quilting is not a new technique
for us, we've use it season on season.
256
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However, this season
we have adapted it and evolved it to link
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00:10:09,760 --> 00:10:12,960
more back more to our heritage,
which is obviously the Rollagas lighter.
258
00:10:13,600 --> 00:10:16,400
So we think we feel it's more relevant
to the brand, now.
259
00:10:16,400 --> 00:10:19,440
On top of that,
260
00:10:19,440 --> 00:10:22,680
we've obviously selected
a diverse range of products as well
261
00:10:22,680 --> 00:10:23,080
Hmm
262
00:10:23,200 --> 00:10:24,800
to make sure
that we're providing solutions
263
00:10:24,800 --> 00:10:28,080
for all price points,
categories, aesthetics.
264
00:10:28,080 --> 00:10:28,360
Yeah
265
00:10:28,360 --> 00:10:31,560
So you've got a range of lengths,
you've got a range of fabrications,
266
00:10:31,600 --> 00:10:32,040
Right
267
00:10:32,120 --> 00:10:34,080
you've got a range of different details.
268
00:10:34,080 --> 00:10:37,400
So for example, kind of blousons,
obviously are more
269
00:10:37,400 --> 00:10:40,360
nylon, kind of a bit more mid to entry
kind of price point.
270
00:10:40,360 --> 00:10:40,640
Yep
271
00:10:40,840 --> 00:10:41,840
You've got really nice details
272
00:10:41,840 --> 00:10:45,960
with the branded snappers
and the T-bar zips, two way zips as well.
273
00:10:46,160 --> 00:10:48,720
And obviously the quilting is very much
274
00:10:49,920 --> 00:10:52,040
the style and linking of the Rollagas,
275
00:10:52,040 --> 00:10:54,840
which is the rectangular shapes
and matching that back.
276
00:10:54,840 --> 00:10:55,120
Yeah
277
00:10:55,160 --> 00:10:57,560
Obvioisly the check shirt as well,
we've got the check panels
278
00:10:57,800 --> 00:11:01,400
which are really nice
and got the contrasting details,
279
00:11:01,400 --> 00:11:05,160
we've got panels on the sides,
which is all using the Rollagas technique.
280
00:11:05,240 --> 00:11:05,480
Yeah
281
00:11:05,480 --> 00:11:08,520
But in different kind of ways and
iterations as more details and contrast.
282
00:11:08,520 --> 00:11:08,920
Yeah
283
00:11:09,600 --> 00:11:11,800
And then also even in the knitwear
you've got kind of knitwear,
284
00:11:11,800 --> 00:11:14,360
blended pieces, kind of more of a knitwear
as an outerwear.
285
00:11:14,360 --> 00:11:16,360
But again, really nice details
with T-Bar puller,
286
00:11:16,680 --> 00:11:17,080
Yeah
287
00:11:17,200 --> 00:11:17,880
two way zips,
288
00:11:18,400 --> 00:11:20,560
a lot more details in there.
289
00:11:20,800 --> 00:11:24,000
What we're trying to do
is obviously build a collection that will
290
00:11:25,120 --> 00:11:26,280
very much
291
00:11:27,720 --> 00:11:29,960
will it would be of interest
to the dunhill man,
292
00:11:29,960 --> 00:11:32,800
which is what we would like to develop
and kind of evolve on and build on
293
00:11:32,800 --> 00:11:33,280
Yeah
294
00:11:33,480 --> 00:11:34,080
season on season.
295
00:11:34,080 --> 00:11:36,240
And we feel like this
really kind of builds into that.
296
00:11:36,320 --> 00:11:37,280
Yeah, perfect.
297
00:11:37,280 --> 00:11:41,760
And what I love actually about the whole
pattern is that you can see it in various
298
00:11:41,920 --> 00:11:42,880
different sort of
299
00:11:44,080 --> 00:11:45,480
dimensions in a way.
300
00:11:45,480 --> 00:11:47,640
Compared,
you know, if you look at those two here
301
00:11:47,640 --> 00:11:48,120
For sure
302
00:11:48,120 --> 00:11:52,000
and also in the shirt as well,
I think that adds a lot of interest.
303
00:11:52,400 --> 00:11:54,720
Yeah, we definitely played a lot
with proportions as well actually.
304
00:11:54,800 --> 00:11:59,640
So you'll see an even on the gilets and
the blousons are kind of more matching.
305
00:11:59,640 --> 00:12:00,680
You go different colourways,
306
00:12:00,680 --> 00:12:03,600
but then on the slightly longer pieces,
the quilting is slightly larger,
307
00:12:03,600 --> 00:12:05,960
so proportions are kind of changing
depending on the piece.
308
00:12:05,960 --> 00:12:06,440
Yeah
309
00:12:06,760 --> 00:12:08,400
And obviously with the shirt
we've actually mix and match,
310
00:12:08,400 --> 00:12:09,240
which is quite nice.
311
00:12:09,240 --> 00:12:12,920
So it doesn't have to be to kind of
in your face I guess.
312
00:12:12,960 --> 00:12:13,480
Yeah, exactly.
313
00:12:13,480 --> 00:12:14,800
It's a subtle in certain areas.
314
00:12:14,800 --> 00:12:15,040
Yeah
315
00:12:15,520 --> 00:12:18,560
And definitely builds into the dunhill
aesthetic and the brand we're kind of
316
00:12:18,880 --> 00:12:19,920
wanting to build on and wanting to go to.
317
00:12:21,000 --> 00:12:23,520
I think gives you that versatility
as well to be able to develop
318
00:12:23,560 --> 00:12:25,160
pieces in the future as well,
319
00:12:25,160 --> 00:12:27,600
knowing that you can play
with those different dimensions.
320
00:12:27,600 --> 00:12:30,360
Yes, this is definitely something
that we want to continue on.
321
00:12:30,400 --> 00:12:31,040
Yeah
322
00:12:31,040 --> 00:12:32,440
because we definitely feel like it
323
00:12:33,360 --> 00:12:36,640
definitely embraces
our identity and aesthetic, going forward.
324
00:12:36,640 --> 00:12:39,920
It definitely marries style and utility
that is modern and unique
325
00:12:39,920 --> 00:12:40,440
Yeah
326
00:12:40,440 --> 00:12:42,680
and we really feel
that kind of encapsulates the dunhill man.
327
00:12:42,680 --> 00:12:43,080
Yeah
328
00:12:43,080 --> 00:12:46,440
So we want to kind of build on that,
evolve on that season on season.
329
00:12:46,720 --> 00:12:49,880
So you will probably see more pieces
of this kind of idea coming through
330
00:12:50,280 --> 00:12:51,160
next season as well.
331
00:12:51,160 --> 00:12:52,240
Great, looking forward to it.
332
00:12:53,120 --> 00:12:56,600
So Miriam, what type of clients do
you think would be interested
333
00:12:56,600 --> 00:12:58,160
in this collection of pieces?
334
00:12:58,160 --> 00:13:00,080
So the collection is very subtle
335
00:13:00,080 --> 00:13:03,320
and relevant to dunhill,
so I think they would work ideally for
336
00:13:04,000 --> 00:13:07,200
clients who are looking for
masculine, distinctive pieces
337
00:13:07,200 --> 00:13:07,760
Right
338
00:13:08,360 --> 00:13:09,760
that ideally work
339
00:13:09,760 --> 00:13:12,280
for a more of a metropolitan city living,
340
00:13:12,280 --> 00:13:12,840
Yeah
341
00:13:12,840 --> 00:13:14,840
a very active lifestyle,
which is why they're quite
342
00:13:15,480 --> 00:13:17,680
versatile pieces
and will work for that kind of lifestyle.
343
00:13:18,760 --> 00:13:21,200
And then on top of that,
344
00:13:21,200 --> 00:13:23,840
the lightweight construction of them
makes them very easy to layer
345
00:13:23,840 --> 00:13:27,560
and wear with looks, to make full looks,
smart, casual looks.
346
00:13:27,560 --> 00:13:28,920
An they are ideal
347
00:13:28,920 --> 00:13:31,040
for transitional dressing
because of their lightweight construction,
348
00:13:31,960 --> 00:13:33,240
transition in terms of season.
349
00:13:33,240 --> 00:13:35,400
So going from autumn winter
to spring summer, for example,
350
00:13:35,680 --> 00:13:39,680
and even on a day to night basis
going from work to the evening.
351
00:13:39,720 --> 00:13:40,160
Yeah
352
00:13:40,320 --> 00:13:43,800
And then on top of that
I think the very verstatile,
353
00:13:43,800 --> 00:13:46,800
the fact that they've got water
resistant qualities.
354
00:13:46,800 --> 00:13:48,160
they are quite durable products
aswell,
355
00:13:48,160 --> 00:13:48,440
Yeah
356
00:13:48,440 --> 00:13:50,840
so they can be worn obviously
for a long time
357
00:13:50,840 --> 00:13:52,880
and kept for a long time as well
because of their
358
00:13:52,880 --> 00:13:53,080
Yeah
359
00:13:53,120 --> 00:13:54,160
Properties.
360
00:13:54,160 --> 00:13:54,440
Yeah
361
00:13:54,440 --> 00:13:57,440
And then and I mean total I would say
362
00:13:57,440 --> 00:14:00,800
it encapsulates the dunhill man
that we're kind of working towards
363
00:14:02,080 --> 00:14:04,440
and it very much links together
364
00:14:04,440 --> 00:14:08,760
our tradition of modernity and tradition
to create kind of more
365
00:14:09,040 --> 00:14:12,240
if someone is looking for very innovative,
understated designs,
366
00:14:12,240 --> 00:14:12,520
Yeah
367
00:14:12,560 --> 00:14:13,600
this would kind of very much
368
00:14:13,600 --> 00:14:13,880
Yeah
369
00:14:14,280 --> 00:14:15,200
provide a solution.
370
00:14:15,200 --> 00:14:15,800
Yeah, absolutely.
371
00:14:15,920 --> 00:14:19,120
I think it strikes me
that they are very versatile pieces.
372
00:14:19,120 --> 00:14:22,320
It's like you said, you know,
you can really sort of dress them up,
373
00:14:22,320 --> 00:14:27,360
dress them down and layering,
transitional between seasons.
374
00:14:27,520 --> 00:14:29,920
So there really is something
for everybody.
375
00:14:29,920 --> 00:14:30,720
Yeah, definitely.
376
00:14:30,720 --> 00:14:32,600
I mean, you've even got
kind of extra details
377
00:14:32,600 --> 00:14:34,520
where you've got a drop hem on
some of the pieces.
378
00:14:34,520 --> 00:14:34,800
Yeah
379
00:14:34,880 --> 00:14:36,720
We've got obviously pockets
and internal pockets,
380
00:14:36,720 --> 00:14:40,640
you've even got the kind of side openings
and it allows some kind of
381
00:14:41,760 --> 00:14:43,400
breathability aspect as well.
382
00:14:43,400 --> 00:14:45,520
Obviously the water resistant qualities
383
00:14:45,520 --> 00:14:48,560
really helps in terms of outerwear
and especially in London.
384
00:14:48,560 --> 00:14:49,080
Yeah
385
00:14:49,600 --> 00:14:49,880
Yeah
386
00:14:49,880 --> 00:14:53,680
So very, very much adaptable
and versatile pieces to wear, pretty much
387
00:14:53,680 --> 00:14:55,440
if you can all year
round actually.
388
00:14:55,440 --> 00:14:55,840
Exactly
389
00:14:55,840 --> 00:14:58,960
And I think also the nice combination
of different fabrications as well,
390
00:14:59,120 --> 00:15:01,760
which is really shown on this piece
I think, obviously it is a knitwear piece.
391
00:15:01,760 --> 00:15:06,040
But you've said already, is it knitwear,
is it outerwear, it spans
392
00:15:06,040 --> 00:15:06,600
the two doesn't it
393
00:15:06,600 --> 00:15:08,280
Exactly, you have got a nice hood detail.
394
00:15:08,280 --> 00:15:11,320
Actually our knitwear has water
resistant qualities as well
395
00:15:11,320 --> 00:15:11,920
and that's a good
396
00:15:11,920 --> 00:15:13,120
that's a great benefit
397
00:15:13,120 --> 00:15:14,480
but yeah, you've got kind of the subtle
398
00:15:14,480 --> 00:15:16,400
kind of ribbing
which makes it a little more relaxed.
399
00:15:16,400 --> 00:15:18,080
But then you've got kind of this
really nice quilting,
400
00:15:18,080 --> 00:15:22,040
in this kind of a nylon, which adds that
whole outerwear element, which is great.
401
00:15:22,240 --> 00:15:24,600
Yeah, fantastic. Well,
I think it's a great collection.
402
00:15:24,600 --> 00:15:25,160
Thank you very much
403
00:15:25,160 --> 00:15:25,360
Thank you
404
00:15:25,360 --> 00:15:27,720
for sharing your insights
into the commercial side of things.
405
00:15:27,720 --> 00:15:29,280
So thank you very much.
406
00:15:35,080 --> 00:15:37,560
Rollagas really is a key launch for dunhill
407
00:15:37,560 --> 00:15:40,240
and a brand new iconic pillar
within the business.
408
00:15:40,720 --> 00:15:44,680
Now, we've had several layers of training,
and you've received training materials.
409
00:15:44,880 --> 00:15:48,360
We've had posts on Yammer,
we've been doing outfits and styling challenges
410
00:15:48,360 --> 00:15:51,480
and hopefully you've
really got to know the product by now.
411
00:15:51,800 --> 00:15:55,920
In today's session, we've heard
from the key people within the business
412
00:15:56,120 --> 00:15:59,360
and they've given us a real insight
into how the product
413
00:15:59,680 --> 00:16:01,680
and the Rollagas
collection has been created.
414
00:16:02,160 --> 00:16:05,280
We've also seen the marketing campaign
and you'll have seen that
415
00:16:05,280 --> 00:16:09,360
in each of your markets
across various different media outlets.
416
00:16:09,640 --> 00:16:14,520
And so this really backs up the fact
that it's a major focus for dunhill.
417
00:16:14,920 --> 00:16:16,960
Now, so far, sales have been good,
418
00:16:16,960 --> 00:16:21,120
but we really need to take that to the
next level now and so it's over to you.
33618
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