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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:27,120 --> 00:00:27,960 Christianna, thank you 2 00:00:27,960 --> 00:00:30,920 for joining us as quality executive for leather. 3 00:00:30,960 --> 00:00:34,520 We're really delighted to be able to get your insights into the leather 4 00:00:34,520 --> 00:00:37,840 and the finishes and how the patterns are applied. 5 00:00:37,840 --> 00:00:40,240 So thank you for joining us. 6 00:00:40,240 --> 00:00:43,560 Of course, the Rollagas collection has a very unique finish. 7 00:00:43,760 --> 00:00:47,880 It's got this wonderful texture, it's very tactile. 8 00:00:48,840 --> 00:00:51,840 So I just wondered, how is that actually applied to the leather pieces? 9 00:00:52,640 --> 00:00:53,000 Okay 10 00:00:53,000 --> 00:00:59,040 So we have, as you say, a very textured pattern from the Rollagas, iconic pattern. 11 00:00:59,040 --> 00:01:02,440 So on the Rollagas collection, this is an embossed technique 12 00:01:02,440 --> 00:01:03,120 Right 13 00:01:03,120 --> 00:01:06,040 And on the Lock Clip collection it's a quilting technique, 14 00:01:06,040 --> 00:01:06,440 Ok 15 00:01:06,440 --> 00:01:07,840 So they're both quite different. 16 00:01:07,840 --> 00:01:11,040 So starting with the embossed technique, 17 00:01:12,000 --> 00:01:16,280 this is achieved by heating a mould, 18 00:01:16,280 --> 00:01:19,400 which is a metal plate which is heated to a certain temperature 19 00:01:19,640 --> 00:01:20,040 Mm hmm 20 00:01:20,440 --> 00:01:24,320 And then is kept at a temperature by thermostat. 21 00:01:24,600 --> 00:01:28,360 And underneath the plate, the Rollagas pattern is moulded 22 00:01:28,360 --> 00:01:29,440 onto the underneath of the plate. 23 00:01:29,440 --> 00:01:29,840 Okay 24 00:01:29,840 --> 00:01:32,760 And then what is done is it's lowered onto the leather 25 00:01:33,120 --> 00:01:38,640 with a correct pressure, correct heat and correct time, which has been trialed. 26 00:01:38,640 --> 00:01:41,240 So we've tested this in order not to ruin the leather. 27 00:01:41,240 --> 00:01:43,240 Otherwise the heat can ruin the leather 28 00:01:43,240 --> 00:01:45,360 And that's applied evenly across the whole surface of the leather? 29 00:01:45,360 --> 00:01:48,440 Exactly, so it's a consistent pressure and heat. 30 00:01:48,440 --> 00:01:49,160 Yeah 31 00:01:49,160 --> 00:01:53,520 And then the plate is lifted off and there you find the imprint 32 00:01:53,760 --> 00:01:55,480 with this beautiful texture 33 00:01:55,480 --> 00:01:56,440 Great, fantastic! 34 00:01:57,000 --> 00:02:02,080 So moving to the Lock Clip collection, that's a completely different technique. 35 00:02:02,080 --> 00:02:05,160 It's a quilting technique and that's been brought from menswear, 36 00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:05,560 Right 37 00:02:05,560 --> 00:02:07,640 So it's a traditional quilting technique. 38 00:02:07,640 --> 00:02:08,200 Okay 39 00:02:08,320 --> 00:02:11,480 The panels are quilted before they're assembled 40 00:02:11,480 --> 00:02:15,080 and then they're assembled and you get this beautiful, soft 41 00:02:15,360 --> 00:02:18,440 and tactile feel, to the bag. 42 00:02:18,480 --> 00:02:21,960 It's interesting, actually, that crossover between the menswear collection 43 00:02:21,960 --> 00:02:25,800 and leather to create something really interesting and unique. 44 00:02:25,800 --> 00:02:26,800 It's very innovative. 45 00:02:26,800 --> 00:02:27,520 It is 46 00:02:27,600 --> 00:02:29,000 To use that on a bag 47 00:02:29,000 --> 00:02:29,720 Yeah, yeah 48 00:02:29,720 --> 00:02:31,480 And also it ties in with the menswear. 49 00:02:31,520 --> 00:02:31,840 It does 50 00:02:31,840 --> 00:02:32,920 It's lovely 51 00:02:34,400 --> 00:02:35,520 Really interesting to find out 52 00:02:35,520 --> 00:02:39,440 about how the pattern is applied to the large leather goods pieces. 53 00:02:39,880 --> 00:02:43,000 I wonder is it is the same situation for the SLG's? 54 00:02:43,000 --> 00:02:44,640 Is that applied in the same way? 55 00:02:44,640 --> 00:02:49,320 So for the SLG's, it's still an embossed procedure. 56 00:02:49,560 --> 00:02:52,840 However, the pattern is delivered onto the leather, 57 00:02:53,080 --> 00:02:56,000 not through heat, but through a high frequency 58 00:02:56,000 --> 00:03:00,720 electromagnetic current that's sent through the mould onto the leather. 59 00:03:00,720 --> 00:03:01,000 Wow! 60 00:03:01,120 --> 00:03:02,240 So it's slightly different 61 00:03:02,240 --> 00:03:02,560 Yeah 62 00:03:02,640 --> 00:03:05,720 It's just not a heated plate, but otherwise the principle is the same. 63 00:03:05,760 --> 00:03:08,600 Exactly, so basically you get the same the same kind of finish. 64 00:03:08,720 --> 00:03:09,120 Yeah 65 00:03:09,120 --> 00:03:10,640 It's applied in a slightly different way, 66 00:03:10,640 --> 00:03:11,000 Yes 67 00:03:11,000 --> 00:03:13,120 But the overall the look is very consistent. 68 00:03:13,280 --> 00:03:15,880 Yeah, and you might find it's a little bit softer 69 00:03:16,160 --> 00:03:16,760 Right 70 00:03:17,080 --> 00:03:20,400 Because it's not had a metal plate sort of pressed onto it. 71 00:03:20,400 --> 00:03:22,640 But it's a lovely hand feel for the customer. 72 00:03:22,840 --> 00:03:25,800 It's softer in the hand, whereas for the larger 73 00:03:25,800 --> 00:03:29,200 leather goods there's a bit more robustness and durability 74 00:03:29,200 --> 00:03:29,640 Yeah 75 00:03:29,760 --> 00:03:33,240 to the product, so I think that that's it's a very slight 76 00:03:34,640 --> 00:03:36,400 variation. 77 00:03:36,800 --> 00:03:38,360 Thank you, really great insight. 78 00:03:38,360 --> 00:03:39,560 Thank you very much. 79 00:03:39,680 --> 00:03:43,440 So as we seen, the collection has a super luxurious finish. 80 00:03:44,240 --> 00:03:47,000 I wonder, can you tell us a little bit more about the type of leather, 81 00:03:47,120 --> 00:03:49,920 the tanning, the finishing across the collection? 82 00:03:50,200 --> 00:03:52,840 Sure, so we use a beautiful calf leather. 83 00:03:52,840 --> 00:03:54,080 It's a full grain leather 84 00:03:54,080 --> 00:03:57,080 and it's been chrome tanned and that means it's a supple leather. 85 00:03:57,440 --> 00:03:57,920 Yeah 86 00:03:58,320 --> 00:04:02,520 We use a semi-aniline finish over the top, which means it's semi-transparent. 87 00:04:02,960 --> 00:04:04,680 So it's not a covered leather. 88 00:04:04,680 --> 00:04:05,240 Right 89 00:04:05,240 --> 00:04:08,880 But what you do is you see the grain of the leather. 90 00:04:09,000 --> 00:04:09,520 In other words, 91 00:04:09,520 --> 00:04:13,600 you'll see any blemishes that the animal has picked up over the years. 92 00:04:13,600 --> 00:04:14,840 However what we do is, is 93 00:04:14,840 --> 00:04:18,480 we choose the top grade of leather, so there are no blemishes. 94 00:04:18,480 --> 00:04:19,200 Right, okay! 95 00:04:19,200 --> 00:04:21,000 So that's good 96 00:04:21,000 --> 00:04:21,840 That's important! 97 00:04:21,840 --> 00:04:22,320 to point out 98 00:04:22,320 --> 00:04:22,600 Yes, yes 99 00:04:22,880 --> 00:04:25,680 As you see also, we have some contrast. 100 00:04:25,680 --> 00:04:28,200 So we've got the pattern and the texture 101 00:04:28,200 --> 00:04:30,400 against some smooth leathers that you will see 102 00:04:30,600 --> 00:04:34,800 both on the Rollagas collection and on the Lock Clip collection. 103 00:04:34,800 --> 00:04:39,280 And that's just a beautiful contrast between smooth and pattern. 104 00:04:39,800 --> 00:04:43,640 And also, it's good to note that actually takes a high level of skill 105 00:04:43,640 --> 00:04:45,840 and craftsmanship in order to achieve 106 00:04:45,840 --> 00:04:46,320 Yeah 107 00:04:46,320 --> 00:04:49,680 this kind of balance, in the shapes. 108 00:04:49,760 --> 00:04:50,360 Right 109 00:04:50,360 --> 00:04:51,720 So yeah 110 00:04:51,720 --> 00:04:53,680 I think it really elevates the pieces as well, looks beautiful 111 00:04:53,680 --> 00:04:56,920 It does, absolutely, gives it a modern and contemporary feel. 112 00:04:56,920 --> 00:04:57,200 Yeah 113 00:04:57,200 --> 00:04:58,960 It elevates the piece, absolutely! 114 00:04:58,960 --> 00:04:59,760 Yeah, there's 115 00:04:59,760 --> 00:05:02,240 definitely a lot to talk about in terms of the leather and the finishing. 116 00:05:02,800 --> 00:05:03,520 Thank you! 117 00:05:04,640 --> 00:05:07,960 So the collection has a very elevated look as we have already talked about. 118 00:05:07,960 --> 00:05:11,360 So could you describe some of the details on the pieces? 119 00:05:11,760 --> 00:05:14,360 Sure, I think it's important to say that 120 00:05:14,760 --> 00:05:17,280 both collections have a very minimal look, 121 00:05:17,280 --> 00:05:17,680 Yeah 122 00:05:17,680 --> 00:05:20,480 and I think that just gives it an elevated look. 123 00:05:20,480 --> 00:05:20,960 Yeah 124 00:05:22,080 --> 00:05:23,880 On the Rollagas collection, 125 00:05:23,880 --> 00:05:28,360 we have the T-bar zip puller, which links to the menswear collection. 126 00:05:28,360 --> 00:05:28,760 Yeah 127 00:05:28,760 --> 00:05:30,200 Which is very beautiful. 128 00:05:30,200 --> 00:05:33,920 And then also, we have the facet detail, which is a dunhill signifier 129 00:05:33,920 --> 00:05:34,800 Very iconic isn't it? 130 00:05:34,800 --> 00:05:35,520 Very iconic. 131 00:05:35,520 --> 00:05:37,840 Yes. So that's important to notice. 132 00:05:38,120 --> 00:05:41,200 And like we said before, there's also the contrast 133 00:05:41,200 --> 00:05:43,040 between the smooth and the pattern. 134 00:05:43,040 --> 00:05:43,480 Yeah 135 00:05:43,480 --> 00:05:48,440 And then moving on to the Lock Clip, we have this amazing piece of hardware 136 00:05:48,440 --> 00:05:50,680 which was specially designed for the collection. 137 00:05:50,680 --> 00:05:52,600 It really is very eye catching. 138 00:05:52,600 --> 00:05:54,400 I think it will draw the customer in. 139 00:05:54,400 --> 00:05:56,240 It's just a really beautiful piece of hardware. 140 00:05:56,240 --> 00:05:57,880 It's a standout feature isn't it! 141 00:05:57,880 --> 00:05:58,600 Completely! yeah 142 00:05:58,600 --> 00:06:00,640 I mean, it does all the talking really 143 00:06:00,640 --> 00:06:01,280 Yeah 144 00:06:01,280 --> 00:06:02,920 So what with that 145 00:06:02,920 --> 00:06:07,200 and then the beautiful pattern and then the smooth panels. 146 00:06:07,200 --> 00:06:12,400 I just think that just gives it a very high quality look. 147 00:06:12,400 --> 00:06:13,000 Yeah 148 00:06:13,000 --> 00:06:16,640 And also just to point out on the grey colourway, 149 00:06:17,360 --> 00:06:21,640 I just wanted to point out that there's this edge paint detail. 150 00:06:22,080 --> 00:06:25,680 And it's really important to say that that takes an enormous amount of skill 151 00:06:25,680 --> 00:06:30,000 to apply that edge paint, a dark edge paint onto a light colored leather. 152 00:06:30,000 --> 00:06:30,320 Yes 153 00:06:30,320 --> 00:06:33,240 And the person that does that is highly skilled 154 00:06:33,240 --> 00:06:33,560 Yeah 155 00:06:33,560 --> 00:06:34,000 Because, you know, 156 00:06:34,000 --> 00:06:34,440 Any slip 157 00:06:34,440 --> 00:06:34,760 Yeah 158 00:06:34,760 --> 00:06:36,800 And the paint can go on to the edge. 159 00:06:36,800 --> 00:06:37,800 And that's all done by hand? 160 00:06:37,800 --> 00:06:38,800 It' all done by hand. 161 00:06:38,800 --> 00:06:39,680 That's one person 162 00:06:39,680 --> 00:06:40,040 Very skilled job! 163 00:06:40,040 --> 00:06:41,040 in the workshop 164 00:06:41,040 --> 00:06:41,400 Yeah 165 00:06:41,400 --> 00:06:42,200 doing that by hand. 166 00:06:42,520 --> 00:06:43,440 So that's good to point out. 167 00:06:43,440 --> 00:06:45,240 And also it just gives a nice frame 168 00:06:45,240 --> 00:06:45,800 It does 169 00:06:45,800 --> 00:06:47,280 to the piece. 170 00:06:47,400 --> 00:06:47,640 Yeah 171 00:06:47,640 --> 00:06:48,800 So yeah 172 00:06:48,800 --> 00:06:50,400 Very nice, thank you very much! 173 00:06:50,400 --> 00:06:50,920 Pleasure 174 00:06:51,920 --> 00:06:54,240 Lesa thank you for joining us. 175 00:06:54,240 --> 00:06:57,160 We're delighted to have you here to talk about some of the menswear 176 00:06:57,200 --> 00:06:58,320 product development. 177 00:06:58,320 --> 00:06:59,720 So as senior product developer 178 00:06:59,720 --> 00:07:03,160 for menswear, we're very interested to hear your insights. 179 00:07:03,600 --> 00:07:06,360 So, what l would like to talk about is, 180 00:07:06,360 --> 00:07:10,000 of course the Rollagas quilting, it's very unique. 181 00:07:10,000 --> 00:07:12,040 We see across a lot of pieces. 182 00:07:12,040 --> 00:07:13,920 So what is it? 183 00:07:13,920 --> 00:07:16,280 and how is it created? 184 00:07:16,280 --> 00:07:18,400 Hi, Gyles thanks for having me. 185 00:07:18,400 --> 00:07:22,760 So as touched on by Wouter, the Rollagas pattern itself 186 00:07:22,760 --> 00:07:26,680 is inspired by the amazing archive of Rollagas lighters. 187 00:07:26,680 --> 00:07:27,320 Yeah 188 00:07:27,320 --> 00:07:30,960 And in terms of quilting, we've actually been working on 189 00:07:30,960 --> 00:07:33,920 refining our quilting patterns for many seasons now, 190 00:07:35,400 --> 00:07:37,040 something to make them 191 00:07:37,040 --> 00:07:39,400 more unique to our heritage and more to 192 00:07:39,880 --> 00:07:40,520 Yeah 193 00:07:40,520 --> 00:07:41,560 Inline with our brand. 194 00:07:41,560 --> 00:07:44,360 The Rollagas quilting pattern 195 00:07:44,680 --> 00:07:49,880 is perfectly reflective of our heritage and our brand and is also providing 196 00:07:49,880 --> 00:07:54,080 a unique source of connection to other categories. 197 00:07:54,080 --> 00:07:55,800 Yeah. Yeah. It must be very iconic. 198 00:07:55,800 --> 00:07:58,320 And actually the way it flows across all of the different pieces, 199 00:07:58,880 --> 00:08:00,480 it kind of creates a real consistency. 200 00:08:00,480 --> 00:08:02,200 Yes, there's a definite connection 201 00:08:02,200 --> 00:08:02,480 Yeah 202 00:08:02,520 --> 00:08:04,640 Between all the categories 203 00:08:04,640 --> 00:08:06,280 Yeah, definitely, thank you. 204 00:08:06,280 --> 00:08:10,880 So the pieces this season feature fabrications for both performance and comfort. 205 00:08:11,160 --> 00:08:14,840 Could you explain a little bit about why these particular fabrications were chosen? 206 00:08:15,600 --> 00:08:16,320 Yes, of course. 207 00:08:17,320 --> 00:08:20,160 Ultimately, when we develop a collection is with the customer in mind. 208 00:08:20,640 --> 00:08:24,120 How's that customer going to feel? and how is he going to look? 209 00:08:24,120 --> 00:08:25,560 and how is it going to perform? 210 00:08:25,560 --> 00:08:27,480 Is it going to restrict his movements? 211 00:08:27,480 --> 00:08:30,240 Those are all the questions that we ask when developing the product 212 00:08:30,240 --> 00:08:33,080 So you really thinking ahead about the customer's lifestyle, 213 00:08:33,080 --> 00:08:33,600 more than anything else 214 00:08:33,600 --> 00:08:34,000 Absolutely! 215 00:08:34,000 --> 00:08:35,720 Yeah, great, thank you. 216 00:08:35,720 --> 00:08:39,480 So you choose the particular fabrics for the performance and comfort. 217 00:08:40,040 --> 00:08:41,320 So for this season, 218 00:08:41,320 --> 00:08:43,960 what are the particular benefits that we can see on some of the pieces? 219 00:08:45,040 --> 00:08:45,320 Okay. 220 00:08:45,320 --> 00:08:49,960 So in this case, we've chosen a super lightweight performance polyester. 221 00:08:49,960 --> 00:08:54,080 It comes from a well-known, reliable supplier 222 00:08:54,080 --> 00:08:57,920 with a proven track record for durability and quality. 223 00:08:57,920 --> 00:09:01,360 The fabric offers a water resistant finish 224 00:09:01,400 --> 00:09:04,520 that is still super lightweight and easy to wear. 225 00:09:05,240 --> 00:09:09,040 And we've also found that it's really versatile, which allows us 226 00:09:09,040 --> 00:09:12,840 to experiment with different quilting techniques and trials, 227 00:09:13,200 --> 00:09:15,280 but doesn't compromise the structure of the fabric. 228 00:09:15,280 --> 00:09:17,520 This is really important 229 00:09:17,520 --> 00:09:20,320 and it lends itself perfectly to the Rollagas quilt pattern. 230 00:09:20,640 --> 00:09:22,880 Yeah, I think versatility is a key word there, isn't it? 231 00:09:22,880 --> 00:09:25,960 And I think with a lot of the pieces, we want to create fabrics 232 00:09:25,960 --> 00:09:30,000 that are a wearable and versatile, something that you can wear 233 00:09:30,000 --> 00:09:30,920 for different occasions. 234 00:09:30,960 --> 00:09:32,440 Absolutely, this is really crucial! 235 00:09:32,440 --> 00:09:33,240 Yeah, thank you. 236 00:09:34,480 --> 00:09:36,200 So the collection this season 237 00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:41,000 features some very strong design details with some very clear dunhill identifiers. 238 00:09:41,720 --> 00:09:45,080 So can you explain a little bit more about some of those details for us? 239 00:09:45,080 --> 00:09:48,320 Of course, so every season, the feedback from 240 00:09:48,320 --> 00:09:51,840 our teams is brand identifiers, we love them, we want more! 241 00:09:51,840 --> 00:09:54,600 Which is great, is really fab to hear that feedback, 242 00:09:55,080 --> 00:09:56,600 but we have to be really careful. 243 00:09:56,600 --> 00:10:00,200 dunhhill has a history of really clever 244 00:10:00,200 --> 00:10:03,840 design, function and form, everything has a purpose. 245 00:10:03,840 --> 00:10:05,680 Everything has a connection. 246 00:10:05,680 --> 00:10:06,160 Yeah 247 00:10:06,160 --> 00:10:09,840 We have to ensure that it is relevant to our heritage as a brand. 248 00:10:10,200 --> 00:10:11,280 Yeah, absolutely. 249 00:10:11,280 --> 00:10:13,240 I think it's very important to have that, 250 00:10:13,240 --> 00:10:16,520 but it's great that you actually listen to the feedback as well. 251 00:10:16,520 --> 00:10:20,640 Then you take that into consideration when looking at some of the details. 252 00:10:20,640 --> 00:10:21,720 Of course, that's what we're here for. 253 00:10:21,720 --> 00:10:22,560 Great, thank you! 19624

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