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Christianna, thank you
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for joining us as quality
executive for leather.
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We're really delighted to be able
to get your insights into the leather
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and the finishes
and how the patterns are applied.
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So thank you for joining us.
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Of course, the Rollagas
collection has a very unique finish.
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It's got this wonderful
texture, it's very tactile.
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So I just wondered, how is that
actually applied to the leather pieces?
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Okay
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So we have, as you say, a very textured
pattern from the Rollagas, iconic pattern.
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So on the Rollagas collection,
this is an embossed technique
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Right
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And on the Lock Clip collection
it's a quilting technique,
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Ok
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So they're both quite different.
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So starting with the embossed technique,
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this is achieved by heating a mould,
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which is a metal plate
which is heated to a certain temperature
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Mm hmm
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And then is kept at a temperature
by thermostat.
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And underneath the plate,
the Rollagas pattern is moulded
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onto the underneath of the plate.
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Okay
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And then what
is done is it's lowered onto the leather
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with a correct pressure, correct heat
and correct time, which has been trialed.
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So we've tested this in order
not to ruin the leather.
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Otherwise the heat can ruin the leather
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And that's applied evenly across the whole surface
of the leather?
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Exactly, so it's a consistent pressure and heat.
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Yeah
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And then the plate is lifted off
and there you find the imprint
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with this beautiful texture
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Great, fantastic!
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So moving to the Lock Clip collection,
that's a completely different technique.
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It's a quilting technique
and that's been brought from menswear,
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Right
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So it's a traditional quilting technique.
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Okay
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The panels are quilted
before they're assembled
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and then they're assembled
and you get this beautiful, soft
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and tactile feel, to the bag.
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It's interesting, actually, that crossover
between the menswear collection
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and leather to create something
really interesting and unique.
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It's very innovative.
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It is
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To use that on a bag
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Yeah, yeah
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And also it ties in with the menswear.
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It does
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It's lovely
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Really interesting
to find out
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about how the pattern is applied
to the large leather goods pieces.
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I wonder is
it is the same situation for the SLG's?
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Is that applied in the same way?
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So for the SLG's,
it's still an embossed procedure.
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However, the pattern is delivered
onto the leather,
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not through heat,
but through a high frequency
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electromagnetic current that's sent
through the mould onto the leather.
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Wow!
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So it's slightly different
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Yeah
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It's just not a heated plate,
but otherwise the principle is the same.
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Exactly, so basically you get the same
the same kind of finish.
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Yeah
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It's applied
in a slightly different way,
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Yes
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But the overall
the look is very consistent.
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Yeah, and you might
find it's a little bit softer
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Right
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Because it's not had a metal plate
sort of pressed onto it.
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But it's a lovely hand
feel for the customer.
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It's softer in the hand,
whereas for the larger
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leather goods there's a bit more robustness
and durability
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Yeah
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to the product,
so I think that that's it's a very slight
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variation.
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Thank you, really great insight.
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Thank you very much.
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So as we seen, the collection
has a super luxurious finish.
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I wonder, can you tell us a little bit
more about the type of leather,
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the tanning,
the finishing across the collection?
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Sure, so we use a beautiful calf leather.
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It's a full grain leather
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and it's been chrome tanned
and that means it's a supple leather.
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Yeah
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We use a semi-aniline finish over the top,
which means it's semi-transparent.
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So it's not a covered leather.
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Right
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But what you do
is you see the grain of the leather.
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In other words,
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you'll see any blemishes that the animal has
picked up over the years.
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However what we do is, is
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we choose the top grade of leather,
so there are no blemishes.
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Right, okay!
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So that's good
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That's important!
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to point out
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Yes, yes
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As you see also, we have some contrast.
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So we've got the pattern and the texture
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against some smooth leathers
that you will see
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both on the Rollagas collection
and on the Lock Clip collection.
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And that's just a beautiful contrast
between smooth and pattern.
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And also, it's good to note
that actually takes a high level of skill
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and craftsmanship in order to achieve
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Yeah
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this kind of balance, in the shapes.
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Right
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So yeah
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I think it really elevates
the pieces as well, looks beautiful
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It does, absolutely, gives it
a modern and contemporary feel.
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Yeah
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It elevates the piece, absolutely!
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Yeah, there's
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definitely a lot to talk about
in terms of the leather and the finishing.
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Thank you!
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So the collection has a very elevated
look as we have already talked about.
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So could you describe
some of the details on the pieces?
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Sure, I think it's important to say that
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both collections have a very minimal look,
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Yeah
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and I think that just gives
it an elevated look.
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Yeah
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On the Rollagas collection,
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we have the T-bar zip puller,
which links to the menswear collection.
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Yeah
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Which is very beautiful.
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And then also, we have the facet detail,
which is a dunhill signifier
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Very iconic isn't it?
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Very iconic.
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Yes. So that's important to notice.
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And like we said before,
there's also the contrast
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between the smooth and the pattern.
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Yeah
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And then moving on to the Lock Clip,
we have this amazing piece of hardware
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which was specially designed
for the collection.
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It really is very eye catching.
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I think it will draw the customer in.
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It's just a really beautiful
piece of hardware.
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It's a standout
feature isn't it!
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Completely! yeah
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I mean, it does all the talking really
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Yeah
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So what with that
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and then the beautiful pattern
and then the smooth panels.
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I just think that just gives it
a very high quality look.
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Yeah
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And also just
to point out on the grey colourway,
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I just wanted to point out that there's
this edge paint detail.
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And it's really important to say that
that takes an enormous amount of skill
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to apply that edge paint, a dark edge
paint onto a light colored leather.
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Yes
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And the person that does that is
highly skilled
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Yeah
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Because, you know,
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Any slip
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Yeah
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And the paint can go on to the edge.
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And that's all done by hand?
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It' all done by hand.
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That's one person
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Very skilled job!
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in the workshop
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Yeah
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doing that by hand.
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So that's good to point out.
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And also it just gives a nice frame
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It does
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to the piece.
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Yeah
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So yeah
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Very nice, thank you very much!
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Pleasure
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Lesa thank you for joining us.
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We're delighted to have you here
to talk about some of the menswear
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product development.
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So as senior product developer
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for menswear, we're very interested
to hear your insights.
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So, what l would like to talk about is,
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of course
the Rollagas quilting, it's very unique.
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We see across a lot of pieces.
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So what is it?
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and how is it created?
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Hi, Gyles thanks for having me.
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So as touched on by Wouter,
the Rollagas pattern itself
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is inspired by the amazing
archive of Rollagas lighters.
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Yeah
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And in terms of quilting,
we've actually been working on
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refining our quilting patterns
for many seasons now,
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something to make them
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more unique to our heritage
and more to
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Yeah
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Inline with our brand.
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The Rollagas quilting pattern
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is perfectly reflective of our heritage
and our brand and is also providing
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a unique source of connection
to other categories.
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Yeah. Yeah. It must be very iconic.
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And actually the way it flows across
all of the different pieces,
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it kind of creates a real consistency.
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Yes, there's a definite connection
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Yeah
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Between all the categories
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Yeah, definitely, thank you.
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So the pieces this season feature fabrications
for both performance and comfort.
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Could you explain a little bit about why
these particular fabrications were chosen?
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Yes, of course.
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Ultimately, when we develop a collection
is with the customer in mind.
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How's that customer going to feel?
and how is he going to look?
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and how is it going to perform?
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Is it going to restrict his movements?
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Those are all the questions that we ask
when developing the product
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So you really thinking ahead
about the customer's lifestyle,
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more than anything else
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Absolutely!
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Yeah, great, thank you.
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So you choose the particular fabrics
for the performance and comfort.
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So for this season,
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what are the particular benefits
that we can see on some of the pieces?
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Okay.
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So in this case, we've chosen
a super lightweight performance polyester.
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It comes from a well-known,
reliable supplier
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with a proven track record
for durability and quality.
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The fabric offers a water resistant finish
224
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that is still super lightweight
and easy to wear.
225
00:09:05,240 --> 00:09:09,040
And we've also found that
it's really versatile, which allows us
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to experiment with different
quilting techniques and trials,
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but doesn't compromise
the structure of the fabric.
228
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This is really important
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and it lends itself
perfectly to the Rollagas quilt pattern.
230
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Yeah, I think versatility is a key word
there, isn't it?
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00:09:22,880 --> 00:09:25,960
And I think with a lot of the pieces,
we want to create fabrics
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that are a wearable and versatile,
something that you can wear
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for different occasions.
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00:09:30,960 --> 00:09:32,440
Absolutely, this is really crucial!
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00:09:32,440 --> 00:09:33,240
Yeah, thank you.
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00:09:34,480 --> 00:09:36,200
So the collection this season
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features some very strong design details
with some very clear dunhill identifiers.
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So can you explain a little bit more
about some of those details for us?
239
00:09:45,080 --> 00:09:48,320
Of course,
so every season, the feedback from
240
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our teams is brand identifiers,
we love them, we want more!
241
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Which is great,
is really fab to hear that feedback,
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but we have to be really careful.
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dunhhill has a history of really clever
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design, function and form,
everything has a purpose.
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Everything has a connection.
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00:10:05,680 --> 00:10:06,160
Yeah
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We have to ensure that it is relevant
to our heritage as a brand.
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Yeah, absolutely.
249
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I think it's very important to have that,
250
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but it's great that you actually listen
to the feedback as well.
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Then you take that into consideration
when looking at some of the details.
252
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Of course, that's what we're here for.
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Great, thank you!
19624
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