All language subtitles for Milwaukee ha ha

[Music] welcome to skill builder I'm Robin clever and we've been sent down a machine by Milwaukee to test now I've had it in my possession for a couple of months now now the kind of things I do with them is I rip down fur in pieces I do Harris rails I make wedges I cut boards down with them so pretty much everything we set ourselves up on-site and we make a little workshop and away we go the blade is particularly thin and I think that needs to be thin it's a bit likely sort of mobile skill saws and that sort of stuff I mean that's gonna gonna make it work better it's got a really good depth of cut for its class it's gonna go up to about sixty million okay it's gonna give you a bevel cut as well right round to just over forty five degrees it comes with two types of riving knife one which has got this completely protected guard and also has got a kickback section on it as well but if anyone's used to making notches in timber when you're running the material in and you're pulling it back out again actually you need to change this for the plain riving knife but that's really simple there's no allen keys involved you simply come around to the back there's a lever you pop the leaver out and it slides out so it's really simple to take it out and put it back in so interchange it with the other standard riving knife which is simply a riving knife so you basically engage it in the slot and then you've got the lever here which is a clamp effectively and once you've engaged it in the slot pull these out of the way you can clamp it back on and that's it it's as simple as that so that's quite a good little feature let me tell you about the width of cut or the potential width of cut so this will cut over 600 millimetres wide so it's obviously half a sheet of ply you might say well applies for foot well this will go up to 615 620 mil so it will do exactly a sheet half a sheet of ply but to enable you to do that you can move the parallel fence so the parallel fence simply sits over these two logs through this position and clamps on when you've got it clamped on this first one here you're going to be able to take the power little fence all the way all the way up to the blade as far as the riving knife will let you go so you'll be able to do thinner material so obviously as you pull it all across there you can bring that with the millimeter scale and that's exactly what he's giving you as a width of cut so to enable you to cut the full width over of the table saw when I slide this out here you need to then change it over to the other pins and do something else and this is quite important if you're going to run a board across here and you've got the fence out there that's going to come a point where you're going to start wanting to fall through and tip out so what you find here is you flip this round you pull it out and you drop that in and what that effectively does is give you a level support level with the table so we'll move it on to the other pin now let's get it to the full width clamp those back in so you've got a hook and clamp system there simple and there you go you can get the full width of a sheet of ply now to 620 millimeters or thereabout so let me just give you a measure there yes that's 615 so that's half a sheet of ply so if you're going to try and run a full sheet through here you'd need another pair of hands and anyone who has done this before where you bear in mind how long that is and how big as she is you're going to get a little bit of wobble so I would suggest that you've got rollers bearing rollers to help you with there and also equally sometimes a sheet of ply might be heavier than this machine so you've got to make sure you're really really well secure because otherwise you're gonna catch something go over talking about that the frame that it stands on it folds up so it collapses and it's got one foot which is adjustable so it's basically able to level itself up I mean I wasn't particularly impressed with this stand when it came because you've got to put it together and it's a little bit the parts of it a little bit flimsy like this little catch here it actually keeps popping out from the side there so that could definitely be proved but I mean to be fair generally speaking I'm only ripping stuff down which it's all handle and I don't often clip that up because I'm nice and steady and I'm not pushing like eight or nine put pieces of timber through this without a roller anyway so that basically comes over and clips on but as you kick up he's popping out this little hole there and I've tried to squeeze it back in and form it with some some grips and sort of like try MV still pops out so I do think that the stand is okay it's not 100% so what can I say about the saw itself well I'll run it up so we've got a charged fully charged battery in there typical bit of CLS so this is nice and dry anyone uses CLS one no it's got a nice tight grain to it it's got a rack and pinion system here which is quite nice it's got one on the front one on the back so it stays nice and true simply clamps when you're at the right measurement it's got a small clamp and you can move this in you can use the wheel here or you can simply slide it backwards and forwards and what I like to do when I get this out before I use it it collects sawdust everywhere you can put your dust extraction on it but quite often you'll just let this you know pile onto the floor your on site or whatever but a lot of the dust sometimes gets trapped in these little tracks here so in the morning I'll I'll do this and I'll feel it and if it feels like it's free that's great if not what you need to do you need to open it right up and give these a good blowout with a compressor or even just a good good blowout and that keeps this from binding up because if you get a bit too much sawdust in one side and you're trying to crank this around like this it's just it's just not good for the mechanism so you want to keep that nice little clean to end of every day give it a good clean let's talk about the rise and fall as well you can really you can really control the depth there you can take it right underneath as well so it's out of the way so for transporting it's probably a good idea to do that and you can even take the riving knife out take this off and it's flat in the ban as well then so you know you could even potentially put another box on top of it flat or wherever in fact I would say that's a good idea because if you leave this on in the van and it goes on it you can see that it's actually engineered to be quite fit it's obviously got to be a spin of the blade or slightly thinner than the blade so therefore you really got to treat this with care also when you're using this if you're right this restricts the parallel fence because there's about 25 millimetres from the outside of that to the center of the blade I'll just what I'll just take the blade back up so you see what I'm talking about so that's where you need to go back to the single riving knife so I'm gonna run it up I'm just gonna tell you about what I first found when I got it out of the box when we set it all up it was cutting out a parallel slightly and so all I had to do was using a hex key which is loosen off these slightly and I had the riving knife out of the way and I ran that up to the side of the blade put the blade up before and I just kept it made sure it was parallel the other thing we tend to do with these incidentally is where there's machining for example where the blade housing cover is there you can run that up to there and also check these parallel because when they set these things up everything should be pretty parallel and truth' equally you can check them against these grooves between the tabletop which I'm incidentally is for this tell me you're familiar with if anyone's got a table saw and you can pop that in there and you can take off if you're making Tenon's for example again roll the table out there you can run your shoulders off so you can go back in and out you can use the fence against there to run them in but sometimes they bind so it's best to actually put the fence and clamp a small block in here to run yourself in and out so don't bind and this is also angled as well it's a little bit crude just like a small protractor but you can you know create some angle with a if you want whilst you're looking at it from that angle I'm just gonna flick this flip the table over onto the angle which again is a simple clamp mechanism and it slides around and you can clamp it back up you're familiar with that there you go there again you probably want to use the potential to use the other riving knife because you find that these kickback protectors they may catch so it's probably best to use the upper riving knife for that and so let me just stand them back up straight this out the way from it I'll set this back up how I want it here we go lovely I'm also going to pop this off because I'm not usually dusty stretching for this example and if you do keep that on what sometimes happens is you get a little bit of sawdust or sometimes you know when you get the stringy bit of sawdust flecks in there and it's two blocks up and what happens then it starts blowing the sawdust out at the top so if you're not using dusty traction I'd pop that off we're gonna just check the battery there it wasn't properly and obviously because I'm been setting the saw up so this is a new battery and when we first got it we were having some trouble actually clicking it in and out so we couldn't we couldn't fathom out why your last thing you want to do is hammer these things in you know they should slide in and slide out so this was the battery that was in here and I thought well as house house that goes that clipped in fine and this is the new battery there we go we're in so it took a little bit of a shake to get it in so I'm gonna just rip through this bit of cils just set the blade just above the workpiece don't need any more than that you made sure use a push stick anyone who's been through carpentry college knows that you've always got to keep your hands weaving no no closer than 300 millimetres of anything like this or planing table planer so basically there you go so we've got our push stick here I like to use two push sticks actually quite a lot at the time but generally speaking with arriving a knife on you can run it straight through there so we'll hob will have this down will cut that back to 35 mil will lock that off here defenders on I've obviously got my specs on there so let's have a quick look at the cup not bad pretty good I mean it's nice and square to be fair it's nice and parallel I don't have any issues with that at all I've ripped quite a lot of door linings down with this particular saw where you get the door lining standard 5 and 1/4 and all the new construction timber it doesn't work with half-inch plaster board or 12.5 Miller so it's quite useful so it's absolutely perfect for that if you're out doing a lot of door line it just seems to be really good for that and I probably get through about 8 door lining sets on one battery and let me just give you a quick workout what that is in meter which is about 5 meters per door lining kit that's 40 linear meters and that's material which is just over 25 mil thick store 2627 will flick generally Scandinavian type softwood and naughty so that's that let's just do some sheet material so what we'll do is we'll set it up now to do a what a wider slightly wider cut and I'll show you how that works back onto there and we'll just take off a little bit off this will reduce this down a little bit check everything's in order so we're going to pull around this little support here and sit and what that gives you effectively it's all level now [Music] [Music] so in conclusion how did I find this saw wood I bought this saw well for one over two hundred pounds for this 12 amp hour battery obviously got the capital cost of the saw as well so personally for what I'm doing I'm using a lot of construction material as I said at the beginning of this video I'm ripping down further in pieces I might be doing you know reducing some big construction timbers and that sort stuff so it might not suit me for what I do however I do get involved with second fixing so you might get architraves you need to rip down a slight taper that sort of stuff so as a second fixer saw on the site on building sites where sometimes powers an issue and you're really relying on your battery kit I think it'd be pretty good you know you can take I mean you could rips curtains and architraves down all day long on this with a knight over 12 amp hour battery I would say so in conclusion possibly not really for the first fixers out there unless you are doing a bit of both or you're on a site without any power than it's ideal but second fix is yeah definitely I think it's a really good bit of kit because a lot of us guys are using track saws now so you know the comment I made earlier about setting up for a big sheet straightaway you're gonna say where's your tracks all and an equal to your user tracks all for that but sometimes it's quite nice if you're doing repetitious stuff and you want to rock run soffit boards off 9 mil fly sheets you can set this up to 250 mm or whatever you're using and you can run them off all day long so thanks very much for joining us and watching us here on skill builder there's so much exciting stuff coming up so a lot of the manufacturers are sending us bits and pieces so please keep checking back to join us in the near future [Music]