All language subtitles for 03_04_basic_camera_setup

- [Instructor] In this video,

we will learn how to set
up an isometric camera

which we can use for all
our cubic world scenes.

Now in order to create
our isometric camera,

let's select the scene collection up here.

Press C, create a new one,
which I call a render,

you can also give it a different name,

but I like to call it render.

And here I create one
sub-collection, which I call camera.

Make sure the sub-collection is selected,

press shift A and add a new camera.

Let's move it somewhere here.

And in order to look through
the camera, press numpad zero.

Now let's zoom back a bit.

And if I press G and then press Z twice,

I move along the local
Z-axis of this camera

and you can see when I move
the camera further away,

the objects are getting smaller

so we have this perspective shift

or this perspective distortion

that everything which is
further away from the camera

will get smaller.

However, this isometric
look has this 2D feel to it

where everything has its original size

no matter how far away
this is from the camera

and this we can change
by selecting the camera,

go to the object data setting stone here

where we can change the camera settings

and here let's change
the type to orthographic.

Now with the orthographic
scale, we can zoom in and out

as you can see

and now if I press G to
move the camera around,

you can see it looks
like if we are looking

at a flat 2D image.

To get this isometric look,

we have to change the angle of the camera.

So make sure the camera is selected.

Let's press numpad seven
to look from above.

And now let's change the angle,

which I looked up online
because it is a bit more tricky

than just entering the
super simple value here.

It's a special value,

54.736 for the X rotation,

zero for Y and 45 for Z.

Let's move this over
here a bit, press zero.

Now you can see we have this
nice perfect isometric look.

However, you can of course
leave this if you like,

but I feel that's a bit too
much from the top-down view

which I don't like that much.

So I usually change this to
something like 65 degrees

and move this down a little bit.

So it looks as if we are looking
a bit more from the side,

but it's totally up to
you or what you do here

and later on, we might also
rotate the camera a bit

along the Z-axis so I'm not
fully always sticking to this

perfect 45 degree angle here.

Let's press N and split the view here.

Of course, I want to
show you a little problem

or little thing we have
to take care about.

Let's change this to the local axis.

Press T and use move tool.

Now we can see the
local axis on the camera

and now if I'm moving this
closer to our objects,

they get cut away at some point.

So you can imagine that
the camera plane here

is like a knife and
everything on the other side

will be cutted away as you can see here.

Even the ground on here if the camera

is clipping through the ground,

you can see how the
scene will be cut away.

So all you need to do
in order to make sure

that this doesn't happen

is to move the camera far enough away

so that all the objects

in your scene will be
in front of the camera.

Also, if you're changing the
orthographic scale up here,

you can see if I scale too much,

the camera's also clipping
through the ground here

so then again, I needed
to move it further away.

Of course, I don't want to
have this huge scale right now.

Something like 20 or
15 is more than enough.

In most cases, depends on
how large your scene is

so we can also move a bit closer for now.

Let's remove this window here once again.

And one other thing I want
to set up for the camera

when the camera selected
and we want to move around,

simply press G.

And you can see that even though

when the objects are
outside of the camera frame,

I can still see them.

And I find this a bit distracting

because then I don't actually just see

what will be in the final rendered image.

And in order to change this,
we can go to viewport display,

passepartout and then
crank this up to one.

You can see, here I can change the opacity

from what's outside of the camera view

and I like to set this to
one and now I can just see

what's inside the final rendered image.

So and there are two other
things which I recommend

setting up pretty much at the start

of your scene creation process,

which you can find here
in the output settings.

First of all, the dimensions,

of course the resolution itself.

When the aspect ratio is not changing,

you can change later on.

However, if you want to
use a special aspect ratio,

let's say want to have a square format

for social media or what I like to do,

I use a 4K resolution with
21 by nine aspect ratio

which is this white screen
look which I love using.

It gives this cinematic feel,

which is of course maybe not
so useful for social media

but for epic YouTube videos

and this is probably pretty nice.

Of course, you can also use the default

1920 by 1080 full HD resolution

or the default 3,840
by 2,160 aspect ratio,

which is the full 4K
and 16 by 9 resolution.

However, I like to use this 1,620.

And the second thing I would
recommend to change immediately

is the frame rate.

So I want to use this
smooth as butter 60 FPS.

However, if you want to use
25 or 30 or whatever you like,

I would recommend to set it up immediately

because when you later on
start animating something

and then change the frame rate afterwards,

this can cause a lot of troubles

so I would recommend to do it immediately.

And I will probably mention
this a few more times

so that you won't forget,

and now we're ready
with our camera set up.

Let's save the file and
let's continue with the basic

light set up.