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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:09,560 Mount Everest - the world's highest mountain. 2 00:00:14,760 --> 00:00:19,400 Every year hundreds of climbers, both professional and amateur, 3 00:00:19,400 --> 00:00:21,080 successfully reach the top. 4 00:00:25,200 --> 00:00:27,960 At any one time in the climbing season 5 00:00:27,960 --> 00:00:30,560 there are over 1,000 people making the attempt. 6 00:00:33,000 --> 00:00:36,680 Behind virtually every endeavour lies the support 7 00:00:36,680 --> 00:00:41,520 and expertise of the Sherpas - the unsung heroes of the mountain. 8 00:00:46,920 --> 00:00:51,120 They guide, carry the equipment, prepare the routes 9 00:00:51,120 --> 00:00:54,160 and rescue climbers who get into difficulty, 10 00:00:54,160 --> 00:00:58,800 every day risking their own lives so that others can claim the glory. 11 00:01:03,440 --> 00:01:07,960 Without them, only the hardiest and most skilled mountaineers 12 00:01:07,960 --> 00:01:09,160 would succeed. 13 00:01:12,840 --> 00:01:15,040 This is their story. 14 00:01:31,040 --> 00:01:33,120 Kathmandu, Nepal. 15 00:01:36,800 --> 00:01:40,080 Its chaotic streets couldn't be more different to the tranquil 16 00:01:40,080 --> 00:01:42,280 Sherpa villages high in the mountains. 17 00:01:46,120 --> 00:01:50,240 It is the home of Ngima, who hopes to give his children a better future 18 00:01:50,240 --> 00:01:52,040 in this overcrowded city. 19 00:01:58,560 --> 00:02:02,640 Phurba comes from a remote forest village in the Makalu region. 20 00:02:06,440 --> 00:02:11,000 Lukla, the hub of Himalayan tourism, is the home of Ngima Tenji. 21 00:02:21,280 --> 00:02:23,720 Gelu Sherpa is less typical. 22 00:02:23,720 --> 00:02:27,200 He spends the peak climbing season in the Himalayas, 23 00:02:27,200 --> 00:02:30,320 but seeks work in Austria and Germany during the summer 24 00:02:30,320 --> 00:02:31,800 and winter months. 25 00:02:39,360 --> 00:02:41,800 It's spring, 2011. 26 00:02:45,320 --> 00:02:48,880 The four Sherpas have been hired by Theo Fritsche, 27 00:02:48,880 --> 00:02:50,960 an extreme climber from Austria, 28 00:02:50,960 --> 00:02:54,800 and Jochen Hemmleb, an alpine historian from Germany, 29 00:02:54,800 --> 00:02:58,680 to take part in an international expedition up Everest. 30 00:03:03,840 --> 00:03:07,640 To prepare for the ascent of Everest, the team sets out through 31 00:03:07,640 --> 00:03:10,560 the villages of Nepal's Solukhumbu District. 32 00:03:14,520 --> 00:03:17,560 Everything must be carried on foot. 33 00:03:22,120 --> 00:03:26,080 Phurba, Ngima Tenji, Ngima and Gelu 34 00:03:26,080 --> 00:03:28,720 are not the only Nepalese who are needed. 35 00:03:30,760 --> 00:03:34,880 A whole team of guides and porters, over a dozen strong, 36 00:03:34,880 --> 00:03:37,000 carry the heavy equipment required 37 00:03:37,000 --> 00:03:39,400 for the expedition's ascent of Everest. 38 00:03:42,720 --> 00:03:46,080 And it's been this way since the very first attempts 39 00:03:46,080 --> 00:03:47,400 to climb the mountain. 40 00:03:48,800 --> 00:03:53,720 In 1922, the first ever expedition to make a full-scale attempt 41 00:03:53,720 --> 00:03:58,560 to climb Everest was made by the British, among them George Mallory. 42 00:04:02,360 --> 00:04:07,080 Of the 160 men who made up the team, only 13 were British. 43 00:04:11,200 --> 00:04:14,680 Mallory was caught in an avalanche on the North Col. 44 00:04:14,680 --> 00:04:19,280 Seven of his Sherpas were killed - the first ever recorded deaths 45 00:04:19,280 --> 00:04:20,720 on Mount Everest. 46 00:04:25,440 --> 00:04:28,240 Two years later, the team tried again. 47 00:04:29,280 --> 00:04:33,600 This time with Mallory was Oxford student Andrew Irvine. 48 00:04:37,800 --> 00:04:42,160 On June 6th, Mallory and Irvine set off with five Sherpas. 49 00:04:43,480 --> 00:04:47,880 The Sherpas all returned safely, but Mallory and Irvine vanished. 50 00:04:49,360 --> 00:04:53,040 Whether they reached the top 29 years before Hillary 51 00:04:53,040 --> 00:04:56,880 and Norgay has been the subject of heated debate ever since. 52 00:05:02,320 --> 00:05:05,240 To try and establish the pair's fate, 53 00:05:05,240 --> 00:05:10,280 in 1999 an international expedition set out to locate their bodies. 54 00:05:10,280 --> 00:05:12,960 Among them was Jochen Hemmleb. 55 00:05:12,960 --> 00:05:18,200 On the very first day, a mummified body was found on a steep slope. 56 00:05:18,200 --> 00:05:20,720 It had to be Irvine or Mallory. 57 00:05:22,680 --> 00:05:25,120 A clothes tag brought certainty. 58 00:05:26,320 --> 00:05:28,440 "This is George Mallory." 59 00:05:28,440 --> 00:05:32,120 Really? George Mallory. Oh, my God! 60 00:05:32,120 --> 00:05:34,720 See that? George Mallory. Oh, my God. 61 00:05:37,760 --> 00:05:42,600 The search continued, but the team were unable to locate Irvine's body. 62 00:05:45,640 --> 00:05:50,480 In 2010, another expedition launched the search for Andrew Irvine. 63 00:05:52,640 --> 00:05:57,440 It was led by Theo Fritsche, a highly-experienced mountaineer 64 00:05:57,440 --> 00:06:01,280 who has climbed 5 of the 14 8,000-metre peaks, 65 00:06:01,280 --> 00:06:05,120 and once again, alpine historian Jochen Hemmleb. 66 00:06:06,720 --> 00:06:12,080 TRANSLATOR: Many believe that Mallory and Irvine were unable to overcome 67 00:06:12,080 --> 00:06:14,200 the most difficult part of their route, 68 00:06:14,200 --> 00:06:18,960 the so-called Second Step, a 40-metre face at 8,600 metres. 69 00:06:23,040 --> 00:06:28,080 However, our expedition member, Theo Fritsche, climbed that passage solo, 70 00:06:28,080 --> 00:06:30,080 without rope, in 2001. 71 00:06:33,720 --> 00:06:36,880 He thinks that this must have also been possible 72 00:06:36,880 --> 00:06:38,280 for Mallory and Irvine. 73 00:06:41,680 --> 00:06:45,360 Fritsche wanted to establish whether Mallory and Irvine 74 00:06:45,360 --> 00:06:47,760 could have reached the summit with only the equipment 75 00:06:47,760 --> 00:06:49,600 that was available at the time. 76 00:06:53,560 --> 00:06:57,800 TRANSLATOR: In 2001, I approached Everest in simple clothing, 77 00:06:57,800 --> 00:07:03,440 with just an emergency down jacket in my pack and no additional oxygen. 78 00:07:08,160 --> 00:07:10,720 I wanted to climb the mountain with fair means. 79 00:07:11,960 --> 00:07:17,440 From what I know today, Mallory or Irvine, at least one of them, 80 00:07:17,440 --> 00:07:18,920 may have been on the summit 81 00:07:27,160 --> 00:07:30,640 The 2010 expedition failed due to bad weather. 82 00:07:33,760 --> 00:07:38,440 Now, just one year later, Theo Fritsche and Jochen Hemmleb 83 00:07:38,440 --> 00:07:40,280 are taking another shot. 84 00:07:40,280 --> 00:07:43,440 And it is for this reason that they have hired Phurba, 85 00:07:43,440 --> 00:07:46,120 Ngima Tenji, Ngima and Gelu. 86 00:07:47,320 --> 00:07:51,480 The four Sherpas will search for Irvine's body near Everest's peak. 87 00:07:54,480 --> 00:07:58,480 The history of the Sherpa people on the south-side of the Himalayas 88 00:07:58,480 --> 00:08:00,520 goes back some 500 years. 89 00:08:03,120 --> 00:08:07,000 The literal meaning of Sherpa is the "people from the east". 90 00:08:08,440 --> 00:08:12,080 A nomadic people, four different groups migrated from the highlands 91 00:08:12,080 --> 00:08:14,560 of Tibet into today's Nepal, 92 00:08:14,560 --> 00:08:19,200 where they settled at the foot of these 7,000 and 8,000-metre mountains. 93 00:08:24,240 --> 00:08:28,520 The precise reason for the Sherpas' migration is unclear 94 00:08:28,520 --> 00:08:30,800 but according to oral tradition, 95 00:08:30,800 --> 00:08:34,080 they set out in search of the mythical Shangri-la. 96 00:08:37,080 --> 00:08:40,720 The vast majority of the Sherpas practise Tibetan Buddhism. 97 00:08:42,800 --> 00:08:46,000 To reach enlightenment, some choose to become monks 98 00:08:46,000 --> 00:08:47,640 and enter monasteries, 99 00:08:47,640 --> 00:08:50,920 where they take vows to refrain from worldly pleasures. 100 00:08:53,720 --> 00:08:57,960 Twice a day, the conch-horn calls the monks of Nepal's famous 101 00:08:57,960 --> 00:09:02,040 Tengboche Monastery to puja, an act of devotion in which 102 00:09:02,040 --> 00:09:05,280 offerings are made to Buddha, and religious texts chanted. 103 00:09:12,880 --> 00:09:16,680 Young boys enter the monastic community at the age of five or six. 104 00:09:19,000 --> 00:09:22,160 They will live a life of abstinence and austerity 105 00:09:22,160 --> 00:09:24,160 and spend many hours in meditation. 106 00:09:29,480 --> 00:09:34,320 Eventually, these novices hope for spiritual illumination - or nirvana. 107 00:09:46,720 --> 00:09:50,360 The Sherpa word for Everest if "Chomolungma" - 108 00:09:50,360 --> 00:09:52,400 goddess mother of the world. 109 00:09:52,400 --> 00:09:56,480 So many choose to live high in the mountains above 3,000 metres, 110 00:09:56,480 --> 00:09:59,520 as close to the seat of the gods as possible. 111 00:09:59,520 --> 00:10:03,400 And for them, hard work in the fields is their perpetual 112 00:10:03,400 --> 00:10:05,200 high-altitude training. 113 00:10:09,400 --> 00:10:13,160 Sherpas breath more efficiently at high altitude. 114 00:10:13,160 --> 00:10:17,240 Their pulmonary blood pressure rises less than that of other climbers. 115 00:10:20,640 --> 00:10:24,920 Scientific studies have found that Sherpas have at least ten genes 116 00:10:24,920 --> 00:10:27,760 specifically adapted to high-altitude living. 117 00:10:27,760 --> 00:10:30,440 MEN CONVERSE IN NEPALI 118 00:10:30,440 --> 00:10:35,360 At 4,000 metres, the reduced air pressure provides 40% less oxygen 119 00:10:35,360 --> 00:10:36,680 than at sea level. 120 00:10:37,920 --> 00:10:41,360 This can lead to an accumulation of fluid in the lungs, 121 00:10:41,360 --> 00:10:44,600 which results in high-altitude sickness and death. 122 00:10:47,640 --> 00:10:51,320 But the Sherpas' genetic structure reduces these effects 123 00:10:51,320 --> 00:10:53,360 at high altitudes. 124 00:10:53,360 --> 00:10:57,200 This makes them invaluable for any attempt on Everest. 125 00:11:03,520 --> 00:11:07,360 Nevertheless, the Sherpas, along with the rest of the team, 126 00:11:07,360 --> 00:11:10,840 must spend several weeks acclimatizing themselves. 127 00:11:10,840 --> 00:11:15,080 So they set off on a trek for Island Peak - a gentler climb 128 00:11:15,080 --> 00:11:17,840 much favoured by less experienced mountaineers. 129 00:11:18,920 --> 00:11:23,400 At nearly 6,200 metres, it is the perfect preparation 130 00:11:23,400 --> 00:11:25,040 for the climb up Everest. 131 00:11:28,040 --> 00:11:31,600 Phurba's nickname among his peers is Turbo. 132 00:11:31,600 --> 00:11:34,160 He's always among the first on the mountain 133 00:11:34,160 --> 00:11:35,800 and has an impressive record. 134 00:11:35,800 --> 00:11:39,440 TRANSLATOR: I've reached the summit of Everest three times, 135 00:11:39,440 --> 00:11:42,320 as well as from five or six more ascents. 136 00:11:42,320 --> 00:11:47,040 I've also stood on Annapurna four times, on the Baruntse, the Makalu 137 00:11:47,040 --> 00:11:51,440 and on many peaks along the Indian and Pakistani border, and on Manaslu. 138 00:12:02,440 --> 00:12:06,680 A few days later and the acclimatization is almost complete. 139 00:12:08,720 --> 00:12:10,280 Yeah, baby! 140 00:12:13,640 --> 00:12:15,400 Theo. 141 00:12:17,880 --> 00:12:21,960 As they reach Renjo Pass at 5,300 metres, 142 00:12:21,960 --> 00:12:25,120 they get their first glimpse of Mount Everest itself. 143 00:12:27,360 --> 00:12:30,240 Now the Sherpas will come into their own. 144 00:12:32,680 --> 00:12:36,320 TRANSLATOR: One aspect is the Sherpas' sheer hardiness. 145 00:12:38,760 --> 00:12:42,840 We have already seen what great achievers they are - how able 146 00:12:42,840 --> 00:12:45,600 they are to push to great heights in a short time. 147 00:12:47,000 --> 00:12:49,840 We westerners require much longer recovery periods. 148 00:12:55,240 --> 00:12:58,280 The Sherpas are pre-adapted for our mission because 149 00:12:58,280 --> 00:13:01,920 they have the ability to exploit brief windows of fair weather. 150 00:13:07,200 --> 00:13:09,840 On every journey into the mountains, 151 00:13:09,840 --> 00:13:12,480 the Sherpas tie prayer flags along the route. 152 00:13:15,360 --> 00:13:19,440 The flags are to seek divine blessing, spread compassion 153 00:13:19,440 --> 00:13:21,680 and bring good luck to the expedition. 154 00:13:26,760 --> 00:13:30,520 Tenzing Norgay compared Everest to a mother hen. 155 00:13:32,040 --> 00:13:37,840 For Sherpas, climbing Everest has nothing to do with personal glory. 156 00:13:37,840 --> 00:13:40,920 It's more an expression of their religious beliefs. 157 00:13:42,960 --> 00:13:46,760 To reach the summit of the mountain is merely a way to draw closer 158 00:13:46,760 --> 00:13:49,640 to the five Buddhas represented by the prayer flags. 159 00:13:52,160 --> 00:13:55,600 In Buddhism, the path to enlightenment requires 160 00:13:55,600 --> 00:13:58,400 complete compassion and selflessness. 161 00:13:58,400 --> 00:14:01,720 For a Sherpa, this translates to guiding others safely 162 00:14:01,720 --> 00:14:03,520 up the mountain and back again, 163 00:14:03,520 --> 00:14:06,120 regardless of the danger to themselves. 164 00:14:12,120 --> 00:14:16,400 Of the more than 200 people who have died climbing Everest, 165 00:14:16,400 --> 00:14:18,280 a third have been Sherpas. 166 00:14:25,000 --> 00:14:28,800 The main Everest climbing season lasts for just a few weeks 167 00:14:28,800 --> 00:14:31,680 in the spring, just before the monsoon season. 168 00:14:31,680 --> 00:14:36,520 From June to August, daily rain turns the hills lush and green, 169 00:14:36,520 --> 00:14:38,400 but makes climbing impossible. 170 00:14:40,040 --> 00:14:44,840 So, for much of the year, Sherpas live a relatively normal life. 171 00:14:44,840 --> 00:14:49,800 For some, this is a life that has remained unchanged for generations. 172 00:14:51,600 --> 00:14:53,760 As the spring season ends, 173 00:14:53,760 --> 00:14:57,720 Phurba goes home, together with his friend Yberraz, 174 00:14:57,720 --> 00:15:00,960 anxious to see his family before his next job begins. 175 00:15:03,400 --> 00:15:07,520 Both men have families in a tiny village in the Makalu region, 176 00:15:07,520 --> 00:15:11,560 a conservation area to the east of Mount Everest. 177 00:15:11,560 --> 00:15:15,400 But getting there is a four-day walk, and it's only for the first 178 00:15:15,400 --> 00:15:18,560 few kilometres that the pair can hope to hitch a ride. 179 00:15:23,720 --> 00:15:28,320 Abruptly, the more comfortable leg of Phurba and Yberraz's journey 180 00:15:28,320 --> 00:15:29,800 comes to an end. 181 00:15:40,000 --> 00:15:43,200 Now they must continue their journey on foot. 182 00:16:11,640 --> 00:16:15,080 Yberraz is growing weary after the long walk. 183 00:16:15,080 --> 00:16:18,160 So Phurba stops at a farmhouse on the edge of the road 184 00:16:18,160 --> 00:16:21,000 to buy refreshments - a cucumber. 185 00:16:21,000 --> 00:16:24,480 THEY CONVERSE IN NEPALI 186 00:16:50,880 --> 00:16:54,280 Refreshed, they can continue their journey homeward. 187 00:17:03,440 --> 00:17:07,720 Hour after hour, Phurba and Yberraz continue their journey 188 00:17:07,720 --> 00:17:09,520 up the foothills of the mountain. 189 00:17:12,600 --> 00:17:15,760 It's Saturday - market day in Khandbari. 190 00:17:18,200 --> 00:17:21,920 Once a week, local farmers and travelling merchants 191 00:17:21,920 --> 00:17:23,760 come here to sell their goods. 192 00:17:28,640 --> 00:17:32,280 Rice flakes, various types of vegetable and potatoes 193 00:17:32,280 --> 00:17:33,720 are all on offer. 194 00:17:35,760 --> 00:17:38,160 Even piglets in handy baskets. 195 00:17:42,960 --> 00:17:46,320 Phurba is looking for a gift for his little boy. 196 00:17:47,520 --> 00:17:50,360 It's the last big market on his way home, 197 00:17:50,360 --> 00:17:52,800 but it's still two days from his village. 198 00:18:06,040 --> 00:18:10,080 That evening, the two men head off to a local bar. 199 00:18:10,080 --> 00:18:13,360 THEY CONVERSE IN NEPALI 200 00:18:14,760 --> 00:18:18,920 The hostelry serves Tongba, a local beer. 201 00:18:18,920 --> 00:18:20,960 It's made by fermenting millet, 202 00:18:20,960 --> 00:18:23,720 which is left to stand for six months. 203 00:18:23,720 --> 00:18:27,720 Boiling water is added and the mixture drunk through a straw 204 00:18:27,720 --> 00:18:30,000 until all the alcohol has gone. 205 00:18:36,880 --> 00:18:39,280 Next morning, they continue. 206 00:18:39,280 --> 00:18:41,560 Higher up now, the land changes. 207 00:18:43,280 --> 00:18:48,040 The soil is too poor for rice, so the farmers grow corn and sorghum - 208 00:18:48,040 --> 00:18:50,720 a type of grass grown for its edible grain. 209 00:18:54,360 --> 00:18:57,600 Sorghum is one of the staple sources of nutrition, 210 00:18:57,600 --> 00:18:59,160 and is used to make bread. 211 00:19:00,440 --> 00:19:05,120 But it has another use - from it, they brew the Tongba that Phurba 212 00:19:05,120 --> 00:19:06,760 so enjoyed the night before. 213 00:19:15,080 --> 00:19:16,720 It's the monsoon season. 214 00:19:18,080 --> 00:19:21,760 Almost every day, the sky darkens around noon. 215 00:19:21,760 --> 00:19:24,480 If it doesn't rain, it gets foggy. 216 00:19:27,040 --> 00:19:29,200 Mothers take advantage of the shade. 217 00:19:31,040 --> 00:19:34,800 In the summer, temperatures can reach 30 degrees, 218 00:19:34,800 --> 00:19:38,200 so as the sun goes in, they bring out their babies. 219 00:19:43,520 --> 00:19:48,360 By now, Phurba and Yberraz are only a day's walk away from home. 220 00:19:48,360 --> 00:19:51,640 In the heavy rain, they meet men from their village. 221 00:19:51,640 --> 00:19:55,680 MEN CONVERSE ANIMATEDLY IN NEPALI 222 00:20:01,840 --> 00:20:04,520 The villagers bring bad news. 223 00:20:04,520 --> 00:20:07,720 The heavy rains on the mountains have caused the river, 224 00:20:07,720 --> 00:20:11,600 which Phurba and Yberraz must cross to get home, to flood. 225 00:20:13,880 --> 00:20:16,000 It's now impassable. 226 00:20:19,280 --> 00:20:23,720 But Phurba cannot wait. His next job will not allow for it. 227 00:20:23,720 --> 00:20:26,960 Now he won't be able to see his wife and children 228 00:20:26,960 --> 00:20:29,000 for another three to four months. 229 00:20:33,080 --> 00:20:36,520 So instead, Phurba decides to visit his uncle, 230 00:20:36,520 --> 00:20:38,760 who lives on this side of the river. 231 00:20:38,760 --> 00:20:42,800 But to get there, he has to cross one of the last few patches 232 00:20:42,800 --> 00:20:44,240 of mountain forest. 233 00:20:45,440 --> 00:20:48,920 Illegal smuggling of timber to India is endemic, 234 00:20:48,920 --> 00:20:52,160 and as a result, Nepal's forests are declining rapidly. 235 00:20:58,040 --> 00:21:02,800 Even so, the remaining forest has its own brand of dangers... 236 00:21:02,800 --> 00:21:04,320 even for a Sherpa. 237 00:21:06,800 --> 00:21:10,640 It's full of leeches, waiting for a blood donor. 238 00:21:21,440 --> 00:21:25,480 In no time at all, Phurba's legs are covered with leeches. 239 00:21:39,680 --> 00:21:43,240 So, with a fern frond, he tries to stop the bleeding 240 00:21:43,240 --> 00:21:45,000 then quickly moves on. 241 00:21:54,360 --> 00:21:58,800 Finally, on the third day, Phurba reaches his uncle's house. 242 00:22:01,840 --> 00:22:04,040 MEN EXCHANGE GREETINGS IN NEPALI 243 00:22:04,040 --> 00:22:08,000 Time to say goodbye to Yberraz, who will wait by the river 244 00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:09,960 until the waters recede. 245 00:22:20,720 --> 00:22:24,640 Yberraz must carry his heavy basket alone now. 246 00:22:24,640 --> 00:22:28,040 Up in the mountains, it's the only way to transport goods. 247 00:22:29,480 --> 00:22:31,680 Even the sick have to be carried. 248 00:22:33,680 --> 00:22:37,240 MAN SPEAKS IN NEPALI 249 00:22:38,680 --> 00:22:42,800 In the tiny kitchen, Phurba's cousin is preparing lunch. 250 00:22:42,800 --> 00:22:46,120 While she bakes chapati, a flatbread, 251 00:22:46,120 --> 00:22:49,360 Phurba recounts his experiences up the mountains. 252 00:22:51,000 --> 00:22:54,520 Unable to get home to his family, he has little choice 253 00:22:54,520 --> 00:22:57,920 but to leave his things, especially the money he has earned 254 00:22:57,920 --> 00:23:02,800 as a guide, with his uncle until his wife can come and get them. 255 00:23:02,800 --> 00:23:06,640 His cousin prepares the traditional dish of dal bhat, 256 00:23:06,640 --> 00:23:09,840 rice served with lentil soup and a vegetable curry. 257 00:23:10,880 --> 00:23:13,040 It's the staple diet of the Nepalese 258 00:23:13,040 --> 00:23:16,080 and, in its many variations, eaten twice a day. 259 00:23:17,600 --> 00:23:20,200 THEY CONVERSE IN NEPALI 260 00:23:24,520 --> 00:23:27,760 As part of their final preparations and acclimatization 261 00:23:27,760 --> 00:23:29,440 for the ascent of Everest, 262 00:23:29,440 --> 00:23:32,400 the expedition first climbs Island Peak, 263 00:23:32,400 --> 00:23:37,280 so named in 1951 by the British mountaineer Eric Shipton. 264 00:23:38,960 --> 00:23:44,040 Although the peak is at 6,000 metres it's a relatively easy climb, 265 00:23:44,040 --> 00:23:46,320 and a popular destination for trekkers, 266 00:23:46,320 --> 00:23:50,520 as well as an acclimatization exercise for more serious climbers. 267 00:23:54,760 --> 00:23:56,600 The ascent of Island Peak 268 00:23:56,600 --> 00:23:59,240 is basically just a hike up to High Camp, 269 00:23:59,240 --> 00:24:02,680 followed by a more difficult climb from there to the peak. 270 00:24:08,040 --> 00:24:12,600 It's little more than a walk in the park for a Sherpa like Ngima Tenji. 271 00:24:12,600 --> 00:24:15,920 Everest presents a much tougher challenge. 272 00:24:15,920 --> 00:24:19,560 But as with all Sherpas, his client's safety is paramount, 273 00:24:19,560 --> 00:24:21,680 regardless of any risk to himself. 274 00:24:24,640 --> 00:24:27,880 TRANSLATOR: I've been working in the expedition business 275 00:24:27,880 --> 00:24:29,440 for eight years now. 276 00:24:29,440 --> 00:24:32,640 Since 2004, I have climbed Mount Everest six times 277 00:24:32,640 --> 00:24:35,800 from the Tibetan side, and twice from the south. 278 00:24:35,800 --> 00:24:38,320 On Shishapangma, I was twice. 279 00:24:38,320 --> 00:24:42,360 In our work, it's important to not just get our clients to the top 280 00:24:42,360 --> 00:24:44,320 but also safely back down. 281 00:24:44,320 --> 00:24:46,560 I hope we can do that again this time. 282 00:25:01,040 --> 00:25:05,320 All attempts on the southern route up Everest start in Kathmandu, 283 00:25:05,320 --> 00:25:06,960 and from there fly to Lukla. 284 00:25:09,200 --> 00:25:12,960 The airport is arguably the world's most dangerous. 285 00:25:12,960 --> 00:25:15,440 At the north end of the runway are mountains, 286 00:25:15,440 --> 00:25:19,480 and at the other end a 600-metre drop into the valleys below. 287 00:25:28,480 --> 00:25:33,400 The pilot gets only one chance. Going around again is not an option. 288 00:25:36,920 --> 00:25:40,200 It is a busy airport. Not just tourists, 289 00:25:40,200 --> 00:25:43,440 but everything that's needed in the mountains is flown in. 290 00:25:44,560 --> 00:25:47,440 During the peak seasons, in spring and autumn, 291 00:25:47,440 --> 00:25:49,760 more than 30 planes a day use the runway. 292 00:25:55,600 --> 00:25:59,120 Construction of the airport was initiated by none other 293 00:25:59,120 --> 00:26:01,080 than Sir Edmund Hillary. 294 00:26:01,080 --> 00:26:05,560 But inevitably, it was the Sherpas who built it - by hand. 295 00:26:09,040 --> 00:26:12,360 Just south of Lukla is Ngima Tenji's home. 296 00:26:12,360 --> 00:26:15,920 But with few roads, it's a two-day journey on foot. 297 00:26:16,960 --> 00:26:19,000 Lukla is the gateway to Everest. 298 00:26:20,200 --> 00:26:22,840 Porters crowd the streets, eager for the custom 299 00:26:22,840 --> 00:26:24,760 of its endless stream of tourists. 300 00:26:28,520 --> 00:26:33,000 Here, modern tourism comes face to face with the harsh realities 301 00:26:33,000 --> 00:26:34,600 of life as a Sherpa. 302 00:26:37,320 --> 00:26:40,320 In the absence of roads and trucks, 303 00:26:40,320 --> 00:26:43,320 building materials are procured by hand. 304 00:26:43,320 --> 00:26:45,800 But as a well-established mountain guide, 305 00:26:45,800 --> 00:26:50,040 Ngima Tenji is wealthy enough to avoid such back-breaking work. 306 00:26:57,560 --> 00:27:00,040 Few Sherpas are so lucky. 307 00:27:00,040 --> 00:27:04,080 They make their living by supplying stones for road and house building. 308 00:27:08,160 --> 00:27:11,600 Ngima Tenji continues his journey homeward. 309 00:27:11,600 --> 00:27:16,480 No roads, steep valley floors. Life is hard here. 310 00:27:17,680 --> 00:27:21,240 Young calves or yaks cannot be left outside to graze 311 00:27:21,240 --> 00:27:25,400 as they do in more gentle terrain, and it's usually the women who fetch 312 00:27:25,400 --> 00:27:27,640 fresh forage for the young animals. 313 00:27:29,080 --> 00:27:32,920 In Solukhumbu, as in Phurba's home in Makalu, 314 00:27:32,920 --> 00:27:36,560 every square foot of soil is used to grow food. 315 00:27:36,560 --> 00:27:38,960 Here, it is potatoes and cabbage, 316 00:27:38,960 --> 00:27:42,480 practically the only crops that survive at this altitude. 317 00:27:48,320 --> 00:27:53,080 Around noon, clouds build on the flanks of the Himalayas. 318 00:27:53,080 --> 00:27:57,360 Even near the end of the monsoon season, it rains almost every day. 319 00:27:58,560 --> 00:28:02,000 Although the Sherpas now have modern thermal clothing, 320 00:28:02,000 --> 00:28:06,240 still their most important piece of equipment is the humble umbrella. 321 00:28:14,800 --> 00:28:19,440 In July, the average rainfall is 280 centimetres, 322 00:28:19,440 --> 00:28:23,080 twice as much as Britain's wettest ever June on record. 323 00:28:30,400 --> 00:28:33,680 Whether climbing mountains or at home in their villages, 324 00:28:33,680 --> 00:28:37,080 the Sherpa people have learned to live with extreme weather. 325 00:28:44,400 --> 00:28:48,600 Late afternoon, and Ngima Tenji finally arrives home. 326 00:28:48,600 --> 00:28:50,800 It's still pouring with rain. 327 00:28:53,320 --> 00:28:54,800 To greet their father, 328 00:28:54,800 --> 00:28:57,440 his two children have stayed home from school. 329 00:28:57,440 --> 00:29:01,560 NGIMA SPEAKS IN NEPALI 330 00:29:01,560 --> 00:29:04,480 It's the first time they've seen him for months. 331 00:29:08,600 --> 00:29:12,800 Despite his relative wealth as a guide, nevertheless Ngima 332 00:29:12,800 --> 00:29:16,800 is still building this small home with his own bare hands. 333 00:29:20,400 --> 00:29:23,880 Once inside, the children wait impatiently 334 00:29:23,880 --> 00:29:25,920 to see what Daddy has brought them. 335 00:29:28,120 --> 00:29:32,120 Like children the world over, they love sweets, 336 00:29:32,120 --> 00:29:35,400 but today they have a gift of much greater value. 337 00:29:40,520 --> 00:29:44,240 Next day, the new red umbrellas are carried to school. 338 00:29:45,800 --> 00:29:49,360 It's a long journey, especially for ones so young. 339 00:29:49,360 --> 00:29:52,320 The children have to walk downhill for two hours. 340 00:29:55,120 --> 00:29:57,960 But the way home takes half an hour longer, 341 00:29:57,960 --> 00:30:02,000 making their daily commute a four-and-a-half hour round trip. 342 00:30:07,720 --> 00:30:12,600 Ngima Tenji's little farm lies at 2,900 metres. 343 00:30:12,600 --> 00:30:16,680 The only crops that grow well in the small garden behind his house 344 00:30:16,680 --> 00:30:18,480 are potatoes and cabbage. 345 00:30:24,120 --> 00:30:27,200 During the few months Ngima Tenji spends at home, 346 00:30:27,200 --> 00:30:29,440 he helps his wife, Futi. 347 00:30:29,440 --> 00:30:30,880 The rest of the time, 348 00:30:30,880 --> 00:30:33,760 she looks after the family and the fields on her own. 349 00:30:37,480 --> 00:30:40,240 With no shops a Westerner would recognise, 350 00:30:40,240 --> 00:30:43,440 the family has to store their year's supply of potatoes. 351 00:30:44,680 --> 00:30:47,680 Ngima can only hope they will last through the winter. 352 00:30:49,160 --> 00:30:52,800 But life is not always unremittingly hard work. 353 00:30:52,800 --> 00:30:56,680 While Futi looks after the children and prepares dinner, 354 00:30:56,680 --> 00:31:00,920 Ngima Tenji takes the opportunity to visit nearby Pangom Monastery. 355 00:31:03,840 --> 00:31:09,120 But today is not a day of meditation and prayer, but one of celebration, 356 00:31:09,120 --> 00:31:12,960 a curious blend of ancient tradition and modern, Western culture. 357 00:31:12,960 --> 00:31:14,560 THEY SING IN OWN LANGUAGE 358 00:31:14,560 --> 00:31:18,240 First the Sherpani perform their traditional dance, 359 00:31:18,240 --> 00:31:20,840 then it's time to get right up-to-date. 360 00:31:20,840 --> 00:31:23,480 MICROPHONE POPS AND ECHOES 361 00:31:25,240 --> 00:31:28,200 TRADITIONAL TUNE PLAYS 362 00:31:29,760 --> 00:31:32,200 A mobile phone serves as a jukebox. 363 00:31:37,480 --> 00:31:40,560 First, the children perform a dance... 364 00:31:40,560 --> 00:31:43,000 APPLAUSE 365 00:31:43,000 --> 00:31:44,680 ..then everyone joins in. 366 00:31:46,040 --> 00:31:49,960 It is a rare break from Ngima Tenji's otherwise harsh life, 367 00:31:49,960 --> 00:31:53,040 alternating between farming his smallholding 368 00:31:53,040 --> 00:31:55,240 and guiding climbers up the mountains. 369 00:32:08,160 --> 00:32:12,160 The expedition has reached north base camp in Tibet. 370 00:32:12,160 --> 00:32:15,880 This is the first stage of the northern route up Mount Everest, 371 00:32:15,880 --> 00:32:19,600 and the one taken by Irvine and Mallory. 372 00:32:19,600 --> 00:32:24,000 Vehicle access is possible here, unlike south base camp. 373 00:32:24,000 --> 00:32:26,040 Supplies are brought in by truck, 374 00:32:26,040 --> 00:32:29,680 then transferred to yaks for the onward journey up the mountain. 375 00:32:32,760 --> 00:32:34,800 The third Sherpa, Ngima, 376 00:32:34,800 --> 00:32:38,400 supervises the loading of the yaks for the next leg of the climb. 377 00:32:39,760 --> 00:32:44,720 It will take them to the base of the North Col at 6,400 metres. 378 00:32:44,720 --> 00:32:46,880 THEY CHATTER IN OWN LANGUAGE 379 00:32:52,320 --> 00:32:55,920 Tact and savvy are needed in these negotiations. 380 00:32:55,920 --> 00:32:57,720 Every time they weigh the loads, 381 00:32:57,720 --> 00:33:00,200 the Tibetan aides come up with different results. 382 00:33:05,000 --> 00:33:07,280 Finally, all the pieces have been weighed, 383 00:33:07,280 --> 00:33:09,920 and all differences cleared up. 384 00:33:09,920 --> 00:33:13,360 Now, the yaks can be loaded for the ascent to the ABC, 385 00:33:13,360 --> 00:33:15,000 the Advanced Base Camp. 386 00:33:17,280 --> 00:33:20,720 As always, the Sherpas will look after their clients well 387 00:33:20,720 --> 00:33:22,600 during the ascent. 388 00:33:22,600 --> 00:33:26,160 A complete kitchen, including gas bottles and food for a month, 389 00:33:26,160 --> 00:33:29,080 is loaded, and the yak caravan sets off. 390 00:33:45,280 --> 00:33:48,680 Past the seracs, impressive ice formations, 391 00:33:48,680 --> 00:33:53,280 they climb from 5,300 to 6,400 metres. 392 00:33:53,280 --> 00:33:55,640 YAKS' BELLS TINKLE 393 00:34:03,560 --> 00:34:06,360 Once there, the Sherpas will set up a camp 394 00:34:06,360 --> 00:34:09,600 where the expedition members will stay for around a month, 395 00:34:09,600 --> 00:34:11,600 depending on weather conditions. 396 00:34:14,000 --> 00:34:17,920 They will set up the tents, cook and wash-up for their clients. 397 00:34:27,320 --> 00:34:31,960 It's not just on the mountain that Sherpas provide critical support. 398 00:34:31,960 --> 00:34:34,200 To survive in such extreme conditions, 399 00:34:34,200 --> 00:34:36,640 months of preparation are needed. 400 00:34:36,640 --> 00:34:38,280 So, between expeditions, 401 00:34:38,280 --> 00:34:41,480 Ngima and a colleague carry out equipment maintenance. 402 00:34:43,200 --> 00:34:46,000 Cooking gear and ropes are checked. 403 00:34:46,000 --> 00:34:49,240 The most critical equipment is the oxygen masks. 404 00:34:49,240 --> 00:34:50,960 If one of them should fail, 405 00:34:50,960 --> 00:34:55,320 in the worst case, it could result in the death of a client. 406 00:34:55,320 --> 00:34:57,560 A Sherpa's reputation is crucial. 407 00:35:01,640 --> 00:35:05,280 TRANSLATION: When tourists climb Mount Everest, we accompany them. 408 00:35:05,280 --> 00:35:09,360 They come as clients, but they soon turn into friends we care for. 409 00:35:09,360 --> 00:35:11,560 We make sure the path is safe. 410 00:35:11,560 --> 00:35:14,040 We look after the tents, the food, 411 00:35:14,040 --> 00:35:17,680 and, most importantly, the oxygen bottles. 412 00:35:17,680 --> 00:35:21,560 When clients don't make it to the peak, we bring them back safely. 413 00:35:21,560 --> 00:35:24,920 They often come again, in the hope of a successful second try. 414 00:35:26,040 --> 00:35:29,840 Word gets around. When more clients come, we have a secure income. 415 00:35:48,120 --> 00:35:51,040 Ngima's home is Kathmandu. 416 00:35:51,040 --> 00:35:53,040 Its famous Thamel district, 417 00:35:53,040 --> 00:35:56,280 just a handful of streets covering about a square kilometre 418 00:35:56,280 --> 00:35:59,520 in a sprawling city of over 50 square kilometres, 419 00:35:59,520 --> 00:36:01,240 is a magnet for tourists. 420 00:36:02,360 --> 00:36:06,240 Over 2,500 business are crammed into this area... 421 00:36:08,000 --> 00:36:11,320 ..and it's not just trekking gear that attracts the visitors. 422 00:36:11,320 --> 00:36:14,240 The shops sell everything a tourist could wish for... 423 00:36:15,360 --> 00:36:19,320 ..from souvenirs to carpets, pashminas to woollen goods, 424 00:36:19,320 --> 00:36:21,440 and, not least, thangka. 425 00:36:27,320 --> 00:36:30,960 These intricate religious paintings depict Buddhist deities 426 00:36:30,960 --> 00:36:34,640 and are used both as teaching aids and as the centre of rituals 427 00:36:34,640 --> 00:36:37,520 which, through meditation, can bring a devotee 428 00:36:37,520 --> 00:36:39,920 further down the path to enlightenment. 429 00:36:47,920 --> 00:36:53,200 Nothing better illustrates the deeply spiritual nature of the Nepalese people 430 00:36:53,200 --> 00:36:56,320 in an otherwise chaotic and commercialised city. 431 00:37:16,680 --> 00:37:20,800 When the summer morning sun casts a golden glow over the city, 432 00:37:20,800 --> 00:37:23,600 it is the temples that are the first to come to life. 433 00:37:27,480 --> 00:37:30,320 The Swayambhunath, or Monkey Temple, 434 00:37:30,320 --> 00:37:33,120 is a paragon of peaceful co-existence 435 00:37:33,120 --> 00:37:35,840 of the major religions in Kathmandu. 436 00:37:35,840 --> 00:37:39,480 Both Buddhists and Hindus come here to honour their gods. 437 00:37:43,120 --> 00:37:45,320 Ngima's return home is timely. 438 00:37:49,400 --> 00:37:54,720 His wife, Dolma, is pregnant, and the new baby is due any day now. 439 00:37:54,720 --> 00:37:57,760 So, he prepares breakfast for their little son. 440 00:37:57,760 --> 00:38:01,320 It's an easy task compared to cooking half-way up a mountain. 441 00:38:04,600 --> 00:38:06,640 Traditional tsampa is served, 442 00:38:06,640 --> 00:38:10,120 fried barley flour with salted butter tea. 443 00:38:10,120 --> 00:38:12,960 THEY CHAT IN OWN LANGUAGE 444 00:38:16,440 --> 00:38:19,520 After breakfast, it's time for Ngima's son to go to school. 445 00:38:41,200 --> 00:38:42,920 Unlike Ngima Tenji's children, 446 00:38:42,920 --> 00:38:45,800 he doesn't have to walk for four-and-a-half hours, 447 00:38:45,800 --> 00:38:48,920 but, in many ways, his journey is just as dangerous. 448 00:38:52,600 --> 00:38:55,840 The roads in Kathmandu are full of hazards. 449 00:38:57,400 --> 00:38:59,480 In the morning and evening rush hours, 450 00:38:59,480 --> 00:39:01,720 the city's cross-roads are a nightmare. 451 00:39:04,400 --> 00:39:08,640 Getting around Kathmandu is no easy task either. 452 00:39:08,640 --> 00:39:10,440 Apart from riding a motorbike, 453 00:39:10,440 --> 00:39:13,080 the fastest way to get around the city is the tempo. 454 00:39:17,160 --> 00:39:20,160 These three-wheeled vehicles are found across Asia. 455 00:39:21,800 --> 00:39:24,280 Their exhausts choke entire cities. 456 00:39:31,360 --> 00:39:34,040 DRILL WHIRS 457 00:39:39,640 --> 00:39:43,320 With scant regard for their own, or passers-by's safety, 458 00:39:43,320 --> 00:39:45,400 in a garage on the edge of a street, 459 00:39:45,400 --> 00:39:48,640 young workers melt metal scraps in a make-shift furnace 460 00:39:48,640 --> 00:39:50,680 to produce fittings for a temple. 461 00:40:00,000 --> 00:40:03,080 Hygiene doesn't feature too strongly either. 462 00:40:03,080 --> 00:40:06,480 Next door, salted wild boar meat is for sale. 463 00:40:10,200 --> 00:40:13,200 There's no limit to the pollution and noise. 464 00:40:15,200 --> 00:40:18,560 Ngima is making one of his rare visits to the Thamel district. 465 00:40:20,640 --> 00:40:24,400 It is here that he will find the greatest choice of pashminas, 466 00:40:24,400 --> 00:40:26,360 traditional Kashmir shawls. 467 00:40:27,920 --> 00:40:31,920 After his long months away, he is looking for a gift for his wife. 468 00:40:36,400 --> 00:40:37,920 Mission accomplished, 469 00:40:37,920 --> 00:40:41,120 in the afternoon, he leaves the hectic city behind him 470 00:40:41,120 --> 00:40:43,880 and withdraws to the Pullahari Monastery. 471 00:40:46,120 --> 00:40:48,760 Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, 472 00:40:48,760 --> 00:40:52,400 he seeks Buddha's blessing for the imminent birth of his child. 473 00:40:54,840 --> 00:40:58,120 He lights butter lamps and incense sticks, 474 00:40:58,120 --> 00:41:01,360 but he knows Buddha's blessing is not so easily attained. 475 00:41:04,120 --> 00:41:08,280 It is only through good deeds, compassion and self-sacrifice 476 00:41:08,280 --> 00:41:10,280 that his wish may be granted. 477 00:41:11,760 --> 00:41:14,680 It is a principle all Sherpas bring to the task 478 00:41:14,680 --> 00:41:16,560 of guiding on the mountains. 479 00:41:26,920 --> 00:41:30,200 The expedition is preparing to leave Advance Base Camp. 480 00:41:33,680 --> 00:41:35,280 To reach Camp IV, 481 00:41:35,280 --> 00:41:38,720 they must climb the glacier to the foot of the North Col, 482 00:41:38,720 --> 00:41:40,960 which is over 7,000 metres high. 483 00:41:40,960 --> 00:41:43,000 MAN CHANTS 484 00:41:47,680 --> 00:41:51,760 Before they set out, a lama recites prayers for protection, 485 00:41:51,760 --> 00:41:56,200 wishing good to all men and averting harm to the expedition members. 486 00:42:01,880 --> 00:42:04,120 Gelu was the last to join the team. 487 00:42:05,360 --> 00:42:07,400 He is a highly-valued member, 488 00:42:07,400 --> 00:42:11,240 because he also took part in the 2010 search expedition 489 00:42:11,240 --> 00:42:12,360 for Irvine's body. 490 00:42:24,640 --> 00:42:27,320 Figures made of ghee, butter lard, 491 00:42:27,320 --> 00:42:31,520 are placed among the rocks, that bear an image of Buddha. 492 00:42:31,520 --> 00:42:35,400 Then, the Sherpas hang prayer flags in all four wind directions. 493 00:42:38,640 --> 00:42:41,520 A handful of tsampa completes the ceremony. 494 00:42:41,520 --> 00:42:44,440 ALL SHOUT 495 00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:48,840 This is a final supplication for protection. 496 00:43:12,200 --> 00:43:14,400 When the tourist season is over, 497 00:43:14,400 --> 00:43:17,800 not all Sherpas return to their homes. 498 00:43:17,800 --> 00:43:20,480 Some seek employment opportunities abroad, 499 00:43:20,480 --> 00:43:22,360 to better support their families. 500 00:43:27,000 --> 00:43:31,360 Gelu is one of some 100 Sherpas who spend the summer in Austria. 501 00:43:33,760 --> 00:43:37,680 For six years, he has worked in the Alps, near Salzburg, 502 00:43:37,680 --> 00:43:40,680 in the kitchens of the Schmidt-Zabierow Lodge, 503 00:43:40,680 --> 00:43:42,200 three or four times a week. 504 00:43:44,720 --> 00:43:47,520 But perhaps it's not too far from his roots. 505 00:43:47,520 --> 00:43:49,680 The lodge lies at 2,000 metres, 506 00:43:49,680 --> 00:43:52,360 in the middle of a 10,000-kilometre walk 507 00:43:52,360 --> 00:43:54,840 that extends all the way across Europe. 508 00:43:57,880 --> 00:44:01,440 TRANSLATION: Sherpas like to work in the mountains, no doubt. 509 00:44:01,440 --> 00:44:04,320 For many, that's their only choice. 510 00:44:04,320 --> 00:44:07,200 And once a Sherpa has worked in the trekking business, 511 00:44:07,200 --> 00:44:09,840 he never wants to work inside a building again. 512 00:44:13,080 --> 00:44:16,560 Most Sherpas work as mountain guides until they are 55, 513 00:44:16,560 --> 00:44:18,400 then they switch to office work, 514 00:44:18,400 --> 00:44:21,000 which gives them more time for their families. 515 00:44:22,280 --> 00:44:25,080 The point is to be happy with whatever you are doing. 516 00:44:32,120 --> 00:44:34,520 Hallo, Gelu! Gruss Dich, Gelu. 517 00:44:36,680 --> 00:44:38,160 War es anstrengend? Oh! 518 00:44:38,160 --> 00:44:39,880 Sehr heiss, sogar. 519 00:44:39,880 --> 00:44:41,320 Heiss und schwer. 520 00:44:42,440 --> 00:44:43,560 Danke schoen. 521 00:44:47,160 --> 00:44:48,520 Alles im Keller. 522 00:44:48,520 --> 00:44:50,280 Alles im Keller, danke schoen. 523 00:44:53,320 --> 00:44:57,200 Gelu may be happiest outdoors and up in the mountains, 524 00:44:57,200 --> 00:45:00,240 but working in the lodge's kitchens has its benefits. 525 00:45:03,680 --> 00:45:05,720 Machst du fertig? Ja. Danke. 526 00:45:06,920 --> 00:45:08,840 Apart from the income it brings 527 00:45:08,840 --> 00:45:11,280 during Everest's off-season for guiding, 528 00:45:11,280 --> 00:45:13,160 the skills Gelu has learnt 529 00:45:13,160 --> 00:45:16,320 stand him in good stead when it is time to return home. 530 00:45:18,760 --> 00:45:21,360 In the tourist lodges at the foot of the Himalayas, 531 00:45:21,360 --> 00:45:25,200 these new skills can be used to further supplement his income. 532 00:45:32,400 --> 00:45:36,400 After years of practice, Gelu has become a good cook... 533 00:45:37,400 --> 00:45:39,320 ..and he has perfected his German. 534 00:45:43,280 --> 00:45:45,800 Zwei mal Kotelett und salat... 535 00:45:46,960 --> 00:45:50,760 But it is up in the high mountains that Gelu really feels happiest. 536 00:46:03,640 --> 00:46:06,640 The team that will search for the body of Andrew Irvine 537 00:46:06,640 --> 00:46:10,840 is snowed-in at the Advanced Base Camp at 6,400 metres. 538 00:46:11,920 --> 00:46:13,680 Although the sun is out now, 539 00:46:13,680 --> 00:46:16,400 there has been fresh snowfall every day, 540 00:46:16,400 --> 00:46:18,720 preventing an ascent to the search area. 541 00:46:21,480 --> 00:46:23,720 The climbers try to pass the time 542 00:46:23,720 --> 00:46:26,960 by planning the next stage of the expedition. 543 00:46:26,960 --> 00:46:31,440 Their thoughts centre around the question of which route Irvine might have chosen. 544 00:46:37,360 --> 00:46:40,400 TRANSLATION: Our search strategy is based on the fact 545 00:46:40,400 --> 00:46:43,320 that Irvine's body has been seen once with certainty, 546 00:46:43,320 --> 00:46:45,200 but possibly three times. 547 00:46:48,920 --> 00:46:51,800 The most credible report, in my opinion, 548 00:46:51,800 --> 00:46:56,240 is that of a Chinese climber, Xiu Jing, who, in 1960, 549 00:46:56,240 --> 00:47:00,280 saw a body near the ridge, which can only have been Irvine's... 550 00:47:02,720 --> 00:47:04,320 ..since, at that time, 551 00:47:04,320 --> 00:47:08,280 Mallory and Irvine were the only ones missing in that area. 552 00:47:12,120 --> 00:47:15,320 Trying to put themselves in Irvine's shoes, 553 00:47:15,320 --> 00:47:17,080 the climbers hope to work out 554 00:47:17,080 --> 00:47:20,920 the route he was taking back down the mountain before he disappeared. 555 00:47:27,480 --> 00:47:31,320 TRANSLATION: I can well imagine that, in a state of exhaustion, 556 00:47:31,320 --> 00:47:34,720 one could miss a correct turn and would then simply continue 557 00:47:34,720 --> 00:47:36,640 in the hope of finding a rock crevice... 558 00:47:42,920 --> 00:47:46,760 Some rock crevice to spend the night, or just to survive. 559 00:47:53,680 --> 00:47:57,640 TRANSLATION: I suggest we climb up the normal route to the ridge, 560 00:47:57,640 --> 00:48:01,600 like we did last year, then follow the ridge downward, 561 00:48:01,600 --> 00:48:04,440 and search close to the ridge line. 562 00:48:15,040 --> 00:48:17,840 It's not just the snow that is holding back the team. 563 00:48:20,280 --> 00:48:22,720 The summit of Everest is the dividing line 564 00:48:22,720 --> 00:48:25,160 between China and Nepal. 565 00:48:25,160 --> 00:48:27,000 Ascending via the southern route 566 00:48:27,000 --> 00:48:29,920 requires a permit from only the Nepalese, 567 00:48:29,920 --> 00:48:32,880 but Mallory and Irvine had taken the northern route. 568 00:48:34,000 --> 00:48:37,080 This route passes through Chinese territory, 569 00:48:37,080 --> 00:48:39,880 and a permit is required from their authorities. 570 00:48:42,680 --> 00:48:46,720 For three weeks, the expedition is condemned to wait 571 00:48:46,720 --> 00:48:49,800 until the Chinese authorities have prepared the route. 572 00:48:54,920 --> 00:48:59,120 At long last, the wait ends, the weather clears, 573 00:48:59,120 --> 00:49:04,200 and the Sherpas can start for the North Col at 7,100 metres. 574 00:49:06,400 --> 00:49:08,880 Once there, they will set up camp 575 00:49:08,880 --> 00:49:11,080 with everything they need for the search. 576 00:49:28,160 --> 00:49:30,160 They have a steep climb ahead of them. 577 00:49:37,240 --> 00:49:41,480 But in spite of the altitude, the Sherpas move incredibly fast. 578 00:49:52,120 --> 00:49:54,760 Each of them carries 25 kilos. 579 00:49:57,800 --> 00:50:01,880 Regardless of the thin air and an ascent of 700 metres, 580 00:50:01,880 --> 00:50:03,520 they only take two hours. 581 00:50:16,440 --> 00:50:20,560 On arrival on the North Col, there's no time to rest. 582 00:50:20,560 --> 00:50:23,320 At this height, the weather can change instantly. 583 00:50:24,440 --> 00:50:27,480 The Sherpas have to prepare the campsite without delay. 584 00:50:32,120 --> 00:50:33,760 Around 7,000 metres, 585 00:50:33,760 --> 00:50:37,200 the camp is in a zone where it can be hit by jet streams. 586 00:50:41,080 --> 00:50:43,520 Although the sun is still shining, 587 00:50:43,520 --> 00:50:46,560 the first gusts of wind are making their work difficult. 588 00:51:22,920 --> 00:51:26,160 By nightfall, the wind has calmed down, 589 00:51:26,160 --> 00:51:27,160 a welcome surprise. 590 00:51:29,200 --> 00:51:31,880 In the Advanced Base Camp, everyone is busy. 591 00:51:33,280 --> 00:51:36,520 While the Sherpas plan the next day's search, 592 00:51:36,520 --> 00:51:40,760 the first climbers, ant-like, are already on their way to the summit. 593 00:51:46,760 --> 00:51:49,360 The new morning brings bright weather, 594 00:51:49,360 --> 00:51:52,200 but Charly Gabl, the Austrian meteorologist, 595 00:51:52,200 --> 00:51:56,000 has warned the climbers of strong winds over the next few days. 596 00:52:09,640 --> 00:52:11,440 But the Sherpas are not put off. 597 00:52:15,520 --> 00:52:18,320 Along the ascent route to the two highest camps, 598 00:52:18,320 --> 00:52:19,600 traffic is heavy. 599 00:52:22,840 --> 00:52:25,880 Other climbers have taken advantage of the fine weather 600 00:52:25,880 --> 00:52:28,120 and are already on the way back down. 601 00:52:31,560 --> 00:52:33,400 Through his telescope, 602 00:52:33,400 --> 00:52:37,040 Jochen Hemmleb watches the ascent of the search team to Camp VI 603 00:52:37,040 --> 00:52:39,080 at 8,300 metres. 604 00:52:43,560 --> 00:52:47,240 TRANSLATION: The greatest challenge is the environment, 605 00:52:47,240 --> 00:52:50,960 sleeping in a tent at 38, 40 degrees Centigrade below zero. 606 00:52:52,640 --> 00:52:56,160 In Camp VI, even the melting of snow is a problem. 607 00:52:56,160 --> 00:53:00,600 To get one litre of water, it takes one to one-and-a-half hours. 608 00:53:01,840 --> 00:53:06,000 Putting on a pair of expedition shoes can take more than an hour, 609 00:53:06,000 --> 00:53:09,160 and then you still have to strap on the crampons. 610 00:53:09,160 --> 00:53:12,160 For most people, this is difficult to imagine. 611 00:53:20,560 --> 00:53:23,400 Gelu, von Theo, bitte kommen. 612 00:53:23,400 --> 00:53:25,920 Gelu, bitte kommen... 613 00:53:25,920 --> 00:53:28,040 Theo is trying to contact Gelu. 614 00:53:32,080 --> 00:53:36,520 But it soon becomes clear that the Sherpas have started a day too late. 615 00:53:36,520 --> 00:53:40,840 Piercing gusts and the biting cold force them back into their tents. 616 00:53:40,840 --> 00:53:44,080 Ich habe Dich leider nicht verstanden, bitte antworten. 617 00:53:44,080 --> 00:53:46,320 Communication is all but impossible. 618 00:53:49,360 --> 00:53:52,520 Again, the wind drives in the fog, covering the mountain... 619 00:53:56,720 --> 00:53:58,800 ..but the Sherpas refuse to give up hope. 620 00:54:01,960 --> 00:54:04,600 Again and again, they discuss the search route. 621 00:54:08,480 --> 00:54:10,280 It's very strong windy. 622 00:54:10,280 --> 00:54:13,520 Wait until it's a little bit less, 623 00:54:13,520 --> 00:54:16,760 and we try to go off at five. 624 00:54:19,640 --> 00:54:22,280 Just in time, the wind does calm down. 625 00:54:23,400 --> 00:54:28,160 The Sherpas set out for the search area at 8,500 metres. 626 00:54:28,160 --> 00:54:31,640 It's already their second day in the death zone. 627 00:54:31,640 --> 00:54:33,680 With only limited time left, 628 00:54:33,680 --> 00:54:37,360 they search the rocky, icy slopes step by step. 629 00:54:37,360 --> 00:54:38,960 Waere is moeglich, 630 00:54:38,960 --> 00:54:43,800 dass sie alle vier zusammen den Grat absuchen wuerden, 631 00:54:43,800 --> 00:54:45,600 bitte antworten. 632 00:54:49,320 --> 00:54:52,920 Following Theo's advice, the four of them focus on the ridge. 633 00:55:00,280 --> 00:55:01,680 It's steep here. 634 00:55:01,680 --> 00:55:04,920 Oxygen masks and snow goggles limit visibility. 635 00:55:14,080 --> 00:55:16,920 The four search for several hours, 636 00:55:16,920 --> 00:55:20,120 then the storm starts up again and forces them back. 637 00:55:37,880 --> 00:55:41,720 TRANSLATION: The search this year was better, more precise than last year. 638 00:55:41,720 --> 00:55:45,840 We were like a family, and the team-work was really special. 639 00:55:48,040 --> 00:55:51,440 We have not found Irvine, but we have gained experience. 640 00:55:53,080 --> 00:55:56,200 One thing is clear, Irvine is not in this area. 641 00:56:01,800 --> 00:56:03,680 The Sherpas have done their best. 642 00:56:04,840 --> 00:56:09,440 But with so many rock crevices and snow drifts to conceal a body, 643 00:56:09,440 --> 00:56:12,200 Mount Everest could hold its secret for ever. 644 00:56:15,400 --> 00:56:17,280 The expedition over, 645 00:56:17,280 --> 00:56:21,760 the four Sherpas fade quietly into the background. 646 00:56:21,760 --> 00:56:25,800 After six months, Phurba can finally see his little boy again... 647 00:56:27,000 --> 00:56:28,960 ..Ngima Tenji completed his house... 648 00:56:30,280 --> 00:56:33,680 ..Ngima is now the proud father of a little daughter... 649 00:56:34,720 --> 00:56:38,760 ..and Gelu spent the winter with his wife and child in Germany. 650 00:56:50,160 --> 00:56:55,360 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd 55891

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