All language subtitles for S02aine

MAINE.

THE EASTERNMOST STATE.

WHERE DAWN FIRST BREAKS
ON THE UNITED STATES,

OVER LAND RISING FROM THE SEA.

IT'S HERE WHERE
AMERICA REALLY BEGAN.

LONG BEFORE THE PILGRIMS,

EUROPEAN EXPLORERS CHARTED
THESE WATERS.

A LAND SHARED BY SAILORS, POETS,

PAINTERS AND PRESIDENTS...

HOME TO A GRAND MASTER
OF THE MACABRE,

AND FIELDS OF FIRE...

WHERE "DOWN EAST"
MEANS HEADING NORTH,

AND THE NORTH WOODS
COVER 3.5 MILLION ACRES.

AERIAL MAINE IS A JOURNEY
ACROSS DISTANT ISLES,

DOWN RUGGED SHORES,
AND INTO THE GREAT WILDERNESS

SEAFARERS ONCE CALLED
THE MAINLAND, MAINE.

ONE OF MAINE'S SOUTHERNMOST
TOWNS IS ALSO ONE OF ITS OLDEST.

YORK LIES ON THE YORK RIVER,

AND INCLUDES THE VILLAGES OF
YORK HARBOR AND YORK BEACH.

IN FACT, THERE ARE SO MANY
VILLAGES CALLED YORK HERE,

LOCALS REFER TO THEM
SIMPLY AS "THE YORKS."

IN THE EARLY 1600s, THE AREA
WAS KNOWN AS AGAMENTICUS,

THE NATIVE AMERICAN WABANAKI
WORD FOR THE YORK RIVER.

YORK WAS FOUNDED BY
A WEALTHY ENGLISHMAN

WITH THE UNLIKELY NAME OF
SIR FERDINANDO GORGES.

HE'D BEEN AWARDED A LAND GRANT

AND PERMISSION TO START
A NEW COLONY IN MAINE.

FOR 40 YEARS, GORGES
FINANCED AND MASTERMINDED

EXPEDITION AFTER EXPEDITION
FROM ENGLAND,

SPENDING HIS FORTUNE TO REALIZE
HIS DREAM OF COLONIZING MAINE.

GORGES NEVER ACTUALLY SET FOOT
HERE AND DIED A DESTITUTE MAN.

BUT MANY CONSIDER HIM TO BE
THE FATHER OF THE STATE.

YORK CLAIMS TO BE THE OLDEST
SETTLEMENT IN MAINE,

AND DESPITE MANY EARLY
ATTACKS ON THE VILLAGE

BY NATIVE AMERICANS,
THE VILLAGE SURVIVED.

AMAZINGLY TODAY MANY BUILDINGS
FROM COLONIAL DAYS STILL STAND.

ONE OF THE MOST CHERISHED
IS SAYWARD-WHEELER HOUSE,

A PROUD CLAPBOARD BUILDING
FROM 1718.

JONATHAN SAYWARD WAS
A WEALTHY SHIPPING MERCHANT

AND MANY OF HIS DESCENDANTS
LIVED AND DIED HERE,

RIGHT UP TO THE 20th CENTURY.

BUT MAINE REALLY
BEGINS HERE, OFFSHORE.

THE ISLES OF SHOALS LIE
ON ITS SOUTHERNMOST BORDER.

MAINE IS THE ONLY STATE TO HAVE
JUST ONE STATE AS A NEIGHBOR.

AND HERE, A SIMPLE CAUSEWAY IS
ALL THAT DIVIDES

STAR ISLAND, NEW HAMPSHIRE,
FROM SMUTTYNOSE ISLAND, MAINE.

APPLEDORE ISLAND,
ON THE MAINE SIDE,

USED TO BE A HAUNT OF ARTISTS
AND FREE SPIRITS,

THANKS TO A WELCOMING POET AND
HOTELKEEPER NAMED CELIA THAXTER.

HER HOTEL BURNED DOWN
IN THE EARLY 1900s,

AND THE ISLAND'S HEYDAY
SEEMED TO BE OVER.

BUT THIS TOWER IS EVIDENCE OF
THE ISLAND'S REVIVAL

AS A SCIENTIFIC
RESEARCH STATION.

DESPITE THE MANY ISLANDS
AND ROCKY DANGERS

OF THE MAINE COAST,

IT WAS MORE THAN 250 YEARS

AFTER THE COLONISTS ARRIVED THAT
THE FIRST LIGHTHOUSE WAS BUILT.

CLAPBOARD HOUSES WERE BUILT
EASILY FROM THE ABUNDANT TREES,

BUT THE CAPE NEDDICK LIGHT

WAS CONSTRUCTED OF BRICK
AND CLAD IN CAST IRON

TO WEATHER THE WORST WINTERS
OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC.

ALTHOUGH MODERNIZED NOW, ITS
ORIGINAL 3,000-POUND FOG BELL

AND RED LIGHT HAVE GUIDED
SEAFARERS SINCE 1879.

LOCALS KNOW IT AS
"THE NUBBLE LIGHT,"

NAMED FOR THE LUMP OF ROCK
IT'S PERCHED ON.

MANY MIGHT BE SURPRISED TO LEARN
THAT THE CAPE NEDDICK LIGHT,

THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA,
AND INDIA'S TAJ MAHAL

HAVE SOMETHING IN COMMON:

THE VOYAGER SPACECRAFT CARRIED
IMAGES OF ALL THREE INTO SPACE

AS EXAMPLES
OF SOME OF THE EARTH'S

MOST IMPRESSIVE
MANMADE STRUCTURES.

ON A BRILLIANT FALL DAY,
MAINERS AND VACATIONERS ALIKE

ARE DRAWN TO ITS COAST--
AND WITH GOOD REASON.

A SHORT WALK ALONG THE CLIFFS
LEADS TO AN UNUSUAL SIGHTING

IN THIS ROCKY STATE:

MILES AND MILES OF SANDY BEACH.

THE BEACH IS ACTUALLY
A LONG SANDBAR

SPLIT OFF FROM THE MAINLAND
BY THE OGUNQUIT RIVER.

THE HALLOWEEN STORM OF 1991,

BETTER KNOWN AS
"THE PERFECT STORM,"

DAMAGED MUCH OF THE BEACH,

BUT EFFORTS ARE UNDER WAY

TO PROTECT ITS DUNES
AND WILDLIFE.

BUT IT'S STILL MAINE'S
RUGGED NATURAL BEAUTY

THAT DRAWS MOST VISITORS TODAY.

AND IT'S TAKEN THE WORK

OF EXTRAORDINARY PEOPLE
TO PROTECT IT.

11,000 YEARS AGO,

NATIVE AMERICANS THRIVED
IN THIS REGION,

USING THE COASTAL RIVERS

FOR FRESH WATER, TRANSPORT AND
AN ABUNDANT SOURCE OF FOOD.

WHILE THEIR ORIGINAL SETTLEMENTS
HAVE LONG GONE,

THEIR ANCIENT LAND REMAINS.

TODAY, PART OF IT IS CALLED THE
RACHEL CARSON WILDLIFE REFUGE,

AFTER ONE OF THE 20th CENTURY'S

GREATEST ENVIRONMENTALISTS
AND WRITERS.

CARSON'S GROUNDBREAKING BOOK,
SILENT SPRING,

BROUGHT ENVIRONMENTAL CONCERNS
TO AN UNPRECEDENTED PORTION

OF THE AMERICAN PUBLIC,

AND LED TO CHANGE IN
THE COUNTRY'S USE OF PESTICIDES.

TODAY, THE MARSHES AND
ESTUARIES OF THE RESERVE

ARE NOT ONLY A REFUGE
FOR WILDLIFE BUT HUMANS, TOO.

FURTHER NORTH ALONG THE COAST,

THE GOLD CHAIN OF BEACHES END
AND NORMAL RUGGEDNESS BEGINS.

JUST BEFORE WE REACH
THE MAINE TOWN

THAT'S BEST KNOWN AROUND
THE WORLD: KENNEBUNKPORT.

HERE, STREWN ACROSS
THE CITY CENTER ARE

THE 18th AND 19th CENTURY HOMES
OF THE COUNTRY'S EARLY ELITE

WHO MADE THEIR FORTUNES
FROM THE WEALTH OF THE OCEANS.

ONE OF MOST UNIQUE HOMES IN TOWN

IS KNOWN AS
THE WEDDING CAKE HOUSE.

IN 1825, A PROMINENT SHIPBUILDER
NAMED GEORGE WASHINGTON BOURNE

BOUGHT A FEDERAL STYLE
BRICK HOUSE FOR HIS NEW BRIDE.

BUT INSPIRED BY THE DESIGN OF
A GOTHIC CATHEDRAL IN MILAN,

HE LATER RESTYLED THE HOUSE
HIMSELF USING ONLY HAND TOOLS,

COMPLETING THE WORK JUST
BEFORE HIS DEATH IN 1856.

TODAY, IT'S ONE OF THE MOST
PHOTOGRAPHED BUILDINGS IN MAINE.

KENNEBUNK BEACH IS STILL
A MODEST COMMUNITY.

BUT IT WAS HERE
ON CAPE ARUNDEL IN 1903

THAT THE WEALTHY WALKER FAMILY

CHOSE TO BUILD THEIR
BEACHFRONT MANSION.

THAT'S THE "W" IN THE NAMES
OF THE TWO BUSH PRESIDENTS.

THEIR SEASIDE ESTATE
IS KNOWN AS WALKER'S POINT.

WORLD LEADERS HAVE PASSED
THE GUARD POST HERE,

WELCOMED BY TWO BUSH PRESIDENTS.

MARGARET THATCHER,
MIKHAIL GORBACHEV,

AND VLADIMIR PUTIN HAVE
ALL SIGNED THE GUEST BOOK.

WHILE THE MAINE COASTLINE
IS A GOOD PLACE

FOR POLITICIANS TO UNWIND,
IT'S EVEN BETTER FOR ARTISTS.

AT PROUTS NECK, AMONG THE MODERN
VACATION HOMES OF THE WEALTHY,

IS THE FORMER STUDIO
OF ONE OF AMERICA'S

GREATEST LANDSCAPE PAINTERS,
WINSLOW HOMER.

HERE, JUST A FEW FEET
FROM THE OCEAN,

HE PAINTED HIS
MONUMENTAL SEASCAPES,

IMAGES OF THE TIMELESS STRUGGLE
OF MEN AND WOMEN

AGAINST THE POWER OF THE SEA.

THE TURBULENT SEAS
HE FAMOUSLY DEPICTED

ARE DECEPTIVELY CALM
ON THIS DAY.

BUT THE BOATMEN HE CAPTURED
WRESTLING WITH THE ELEMENTS

WERE MAINERS.

TEN MILES OUT, AN ISLAND RISES

LIKE A WHALE'S HUMP
OUT OF THE SEA.

IT'S THOUGHT THE STATE TOOK
ITS NAME FROM THE SETTLERS

ON THE MORE THAN 400 OFFSHORE
ISLANDS ALONG THE COAST

WHO LOOKED BACK
TO THE "MAINE" LAND.

HERE, ON MONHEGAN ISLAND,
THOSE VIEWS

INSPIRED PAINTERS JAMIE WYETH
AND EDWARD HOPPER,

WHO WERE ATTRACTED BY ITS RUGGED
BEAUTY AND REMOTE LOCATION.

BARELY ONE SQUARE MILE IN AREA,

MONHEGAN IS ACCESSIBLE
ONLY BY BOAT,

AND THERE ARE NO PAVED ROADS.

THE YEAR-ROUND POPULATION
IS TINY--JUST 65.

TODAY THE ISLAND'S ECONOMY
IS STILL RULED,

AS IT HAS BEEN FOR CENTURIES,

BY THOSE WHO MAKE THEIR
LIVING FROM THE SEA--

THE COURAGEOUS FISHERMEN AND
LOBSTERMEN WHO WORK THESE WATERS

THROUGH THE HARSH MAINE WINTER.

WHILE THE SCENERY
IS SPECTACULAR,

THE WATERS AROUND MONHEGAN
ARE TREACHEROUS.

COUNTLESS SHIPS
HAVE GONE DOWN HERE,

SOME OF THEM STILL VISIBLE.

APPROACHING PORTLAND,
A GREAT BEACON CALLS OUT

TO HOMEBOUND SAILORS,
JUST AS IT HAS FOR CENTURIES.

EVEN TODAY THE ROCKY SHORES
OF PORTLAND

ARE NOT EASILY NAVIGATED.

BUT AFTER A NUMBER
OF TRAGIC SHIPWRECKS,

MAINE'S FIRST LIGHTHOUSE,
THE PORTLAND HEAD LIGHT,

WAS BUILT AT THE ORDER
OF GEORGE WASHINGTON.

TODAY THE OLD TOWER
STILL STANDS.

BUT MUCH HAS CHANGED SINCE
16 WHALE OIL LAMPS

LIT THE LIGHTHOUSE IN 1791.

NOW AN AIRPORT-STYLE
ELECTRIC BEACON

RISES 100 FEET ABOVE THE WATER.

THE LIGHT IS VISIBLE
FROM 16 MILES AWAY,

WELCOMING MARINERS
TO SAFE HARBOR

IN MAINE'S BIGGEST TOWN.

SITUATED IN CASCO BAY,
PORTLAND WAS ONCE CONSIDERED

STRATEGICALLY IMPORTANT
BY THE U.S. MILITARY

BECAUSE OF ITS
PROXIMITY TO EUROPE

COMPARED TO OTHER EASTERN PORTS.

THE GRANITE-WALLED
FORT SCAMMEL ON HOUSE ISLAND

AND FORT GORGES
ON HOG ISLAND LEDGE

WERE ORIGINALLY BUILT
IN THE BAY IN THE 1800s

TO PROTECT AGAINST ENEMY ATTACK.

MOUNDS OF SAND WERE USED
TO INSULATE THE FORTS

AND THEIR SUPPLIES
OF AMMUNITION.

BUT FORT SCAMMEL
WAS THE ONLY ONE

TO FIRE A SHOT IN BATTLE

AGAINST A BRITISH PRIVATEER
IN 1813.

IN A STATE WITH ONLY
1.3 MILLION PEOPLE,

PORTLAND'S 64,000 CITIZENS
MAKE IT A METROPOLIS.

IN THE 19th CENTURY, WHEN TRADE
IN PORTLAND WAS BOOMING,

SOME OF THE STATE'S OLDEST BANKS
OPENED THEIR DOORS HERE.

AND IF YOU KNOW WHO PENNED
THE LINES, "LISTEN MY CHILDREN

AND YOU SHALL HEAR OF THE
MIDNIGHT RIDE OF PAUL REVERE,"

TAKE NOTE THAT
THE CHILDHOOD HOME

OF HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW

IS TUCKED IN BETWEEN
MODERN OFFICE BUILDINGS.

MANY OF PORTLAND'S
OTHER FORMER RESIDENTS

ENDED UP WITH SOME OF
THE PRETTIEST PLOTS IN TOWN.

65,000 PEOPLE ARE BURIED
IN EVERGREEN CEMETERY,

ONE OF THE LARGEST
PUBLICLY OWNED

SPACES IN THE CITY.

AND WHILE MANY FAMOUS MAINERS
HAVE BEEN BURIED HERE,

THE STORY OF ONE,
THE 19th CENTURY MAYOR NEAL DOW,

IS INFAMOUS.

[JAZZ MUSIC PLAYING]

KNOWN AS THE FATHER OF
THE PROHIBITION,

HE MANAGED TO BAN ALCOHOL
FROM THE STATE,

AND IN 1880 MADE A RUN
AT THE WHITE HOUSE

ON A PROHIBITION TICKET.

HE RECEIVED JUST 10,000 VOTES.

BUT PROHIBITION WAS UNPOPULAR

WITH MUCH OF PORTLAND'S
WORKING CLASS.

AFTER ALL, PORTLAND
WAS A RUM PRODUCER,

AND THE CITY'S WORKERS
WERE EVEN ALLOWED

"RUM BREAKS" DURING THE DAY.

THERE WERE RIOTS IN PORTLAND
WHEN THE MAYOR GOT HIS WAY,

BUT CHANCES ARE
A FEW OF THE PEOPLE

WHO ARE BURIED HERE BESIDE HIM
SUCCUMBED TO HIS "DEMON RUM."

AT ITS HEART,
THE CITY THAT THRIVED

ON FISHING AND SHIPPING
IN THE 1800s

IS STILL A HARBOR TOWN.

SET ON A PENINSULA
REACHING INTO CASCO BAY,

PORTLAND REMAINS AS
LONGFELLOW DESCRIBED IT,

"THE CITY BY THE SEA."

TODAY, THE HARBOR THAT DREW
ENGLISH SETTLERS IN 1632

STILL BUSTLES WITH VESSELS,
BIG AND SMALL.

BUT MAINE IS FAR MORE
THAN JUST A SEACOAST.

THE STATE'S LANDMASS TAKES UP
HALF OF NEW ENGLAND,

MOST OF IT REMOTE AND UNSPOILED.

AMONG THE PINES OF MAINE'S
ENDLESS FORESTS,

ONE IS STRUCK BY ITS MAJESTY.

ONE EXPLORER OF THE REGION

WAS THE GREAT 19th CENTURY
THINKER, HENRY DAVID THOREAU.

OF HIS VISIT HERE HE WROTE,

"I LOOKED WITH AWE
AT THE GROUND I TROD ON,

THIS WAS THE EARTH
OF WHICH WE HAVE HEARD,

MADE OUT OF CHAOS
AND OLD NIGHT,"

WORDS THAT LEAD TO HIS
LANDMARK BOOK, THE MAINE WOODS.

HERE AT MOOSEHEAD LAKE,
MAINE'S LARGEST,

THOREAU WRITES OF HIRING
A PENOBSCOT INDIAN GUIDE

TO HELP HIM CROSS THE LAKE
IN A BIRCH BARK CANOE,

OR WHAT THOREAU DESCRIBED AS
"A LITTLE EGGSHELL OF A BOAT."

THE LAKE STRETCHES
AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE

UNTIL IT DISAPPEARS
INTO A GREAT DARK, GREEN FOREST.

THESE ARE THE 3.5 MILLION ACRES
OF MAINE'S FAMOUS NORTH WOODS.

UNDER A CANOPY OF MAPLES,
FIRS AND WHITE PINE,

BLACK BEARS AND MOOSE

CROSS THE ANCIENT LANDS
OF THE WABANAKI.

TODAY, 95% OF MAINE'S FORESTS
ARE PRIVATELY OWNED.

IN THE 1990s, A GROUP OF
HIGH PROFILE CONSERVATIONISTS

LOBBIED TO PRESERVE
3 MILLION ACRES

OF THE NORTH WOODS
AS A NATIONAL PARK--

BUT THE EFFORT HAS STALLED.

WITH MORE THAN 90% OF THE STATE
COVERED WITH TREES

AND 39 COMMERCIAL TREE SPECIES,

MAINE'S FOREST PRODUCTS
INDUSTRY CONTRIBUTES

OVER 4 BILLION DOLLARS
TO THE STATE'S ECONOMY.

MANY OF THE STATE'S HILLS
AND MOUNTAINS ARE TOO LOW

TO BREAK CLEAR OF
THE TREE LINE--BUT NOT THIS ONE.

AT OVER 5,000 FEET,
MOUNT KATAHDIN'S PEAKS

ARE THE HIGHEST IN MAINE.

ITS NAME COMES FROM
THE PENOBSCOT INDIANS

AND MEANS
"THE GREATEST MOUNTAIN."

THANKS TO BEING THE CENTERPIECE
OF BAXTER STATE PARK,

WE CAN SEE THE MOUNTAIN
MUCH AS IT WAS

WHEN THOREAU SCALED IT IN 1846.

MOUNT KATAHDIN IS ALSO
THE NORTHERN END

OF THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL,
A NATIONAL SCENIC PATH

THAT FOLLOWS THE SPINE OF
THE APPALACHIAN MOUNTAINS

ALL THE WAY TO GEORGIA.

ALONGSIDE MAINE'S
CARPET OF FORESTS,

ANOTHER DRAMATIC
LANDSCAPE APPEARS:

THE BLUEBERRY FIELDS.

MAINE IS THE LARGEST PRODUCER OF
WILD BLUEBERRIES IN THE WORLD.

ITS FIELDS COVER
60,000 ACRES OF LAND.

BY AUTUMN THE BLUEBERRIES

HAVE ALREADY BEEN PLUCKED
FROM THE BUSHES

AND THE LEAVES TURN
A VIVID SHADE OF RED,

THE COLOR OF FLAME.

IN THE DISTANCE, GREAT CLOUDS
OF SMOKE REVEAL A REAL FIRE.

IN A TECHNIQUE FIRST USED
BY NATIVE AMERICANS,

THE BUSHES ARE CUT BACK EVERY
TWO YEARS AND THEN BURNED,

IN ORDER TO STIMULATE
NEW GROWTH.

THE FIRE AND SMOKE
INCREASE BERRY YIELDS

AND KILL INSECTS AND DISEASES

IN A TRADITIONAL, ORGANIC WAY.

INLAND MAINE IS A LAND
TIED TO THE GREAT RIVERS

THAT MAKE THEIR WAY TO THE SEA,

AND THE KENNEBEC
IS NO EXCEPTION.

FOLLOW THE KENNEBEC RIVER SOUTH

FROM ITS SOURCE
AT MOOSEHEAD LAKE

AND YOU'LL FIND
A BUSTLING WATERWAY,

BORDERED WITH TOWNS AND CITIES,

STRETCHING ALL THE WAY
TO MERRYMEETING BAY.

ONE TOWN ON THE KENNEBEC
HOLDS STATEWIDE IMPORTANCE.

ONCE HOME TO THE ABENAKI PEOPLE,
IT NOW BOASTS WHAT SOME CALL

THE FINEST BUILDING
IN THE STATE--

THE CAPITOL AT AUGUSTA.

DESIGNED BY ARCHITECT
CHARLES BULFINCH

AND BUILT FROM GRANITE
QUARRIED NEARBY,

AUGUSTA HAS BEEN
THE STATE CAPITAL SINCE 1827.

BY THE MID 19th CENTURY,
AUGUSTA WAS A THRIVING PORT TOWN

WITH RIVER TRAFFIC RUNNING
TO AND FROM BOSTON.

BUT TODAY, MOST TRAVEL TO THIS
CAPITAL CITY IS BY INTERSTATE.

AND THE KENNEBEC RIVER
HAS BEEN LEFT

TO WEND ITS WAY TO THE SEA
ON ITS OWN.

BUT WHERE THIS RIVER
MEETS THE SEA,

HUMAN INDUSTRY RETURNS
IN A BIG WAY.

BATH IRON WORKS HAS
SUPPLIED THE U.S. NAVY

WITH SOME OF THE TOUGHEST SHIPS
IN ITS LONG HISTORY.

DURING WORLD WAR II,

ONE OUT OF FOUR AMERICAN
DESTROYERS WAS "BATH-BUILT."

AT THE HEIGHT OF THE WAR EFFORT,

WOMEN WENT TO WORK
AT THE SHIPYARD,

AND THE IRON WORKS PRODUCED

A NEW DESTROYER
EVERY THREE WEEKS.

THESE DAYS,
IT'S A SLOWER PROCESS.

HERE, THE DESTROYER
U.S.S. WAYNE E. MEYER

IS PREPARING FOR LAUNCH,

WHILE A SISTER SHIP
IS TAKING SHAPE.

SHIPS FROM HERE HAVE SEEN ACTION
OFF THE COASTS OF FRANCE,

THE PHILIPPINES AND VIETNAM.

FROM THE PEACEFUL WATERS OF
MAINE TO ANY THEATER OF WAR,

CREWS CAME TO RESPECT AND
RELY ON BATH-BUILT SHIPS.

WHILE BATH'S SHIPS
HAVE GONE TO WAR,

A FEW MILES WEST A FAMOUS WRITER
WAS SAID TO HAVE STARTED ONE.

HERE IN BRUNSWICK,
HARRIET BEECHER STOWE WROTE

UNCLE TOM'S CABIN,
THE LANDMARK BOOK

THAT ATTACKED
THE CRUELTY OF SLAVERY.

FOR THREE YEARS STOWE LIVED HERE
IN THIS BRUNSWICK HOUSE.

BUT IT WAS EARLIER,
IN CINCINNATI,

THAT SHE MET ESCAPED SLAVES FROM
THE BORDERING STATE OF KENTUCKY

AND LEARNED OF THEIR
APPALLING TREATMENT.

UNCLE TOM'S CABIN
WAS PUBLISHED IN 1852

AND WENT ON TO BECOME
THE BEST SELLING NOVEL

OF THE 19th CENTURY,

AND THE SECOND BEST SELLING BOOK
FOLLOWING THE BIBLE.

IT'S CLAIMED THAT WHEN
PRESIDENT ABRAHAM LINCOLN

MET STOWE DURING THE CIVIL WAR,

HE SAID, "SO YOU'RE THE LITTLE
WOMAN WHO WROTE THE BOOK

THAT MADE THIS GREAT WAR."

STOWE'S HUSBAND TAUGHT
AT NEARBY BOWDOIN COLLEGE

AND IT'S CAMPUS LORE
THAT SHE OFTEN WROTE

IN HIS STUDY IN APPLETON HALL.

THE SMALL BUT PRESTIGIOUS
COLLEGE DATES FROM 1794,

AND ITS LITERARY TRADITION HAD
STARTED AS EARLY AS THE 1820s

WHEN WRITERS NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE
AND HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW

WERE CLASSMATES HERE.

LONGFELLOW, A TRUE SON OF MAINE,

WENT ON TO BECOME AMERICA'S
MOST LOVED 19th CENTURY POET.

THE LINES, "SHIPS THAT
PASS IN THE NIGHT,"

AND "FOOTPRINTS ON
THE SANDS OF TIME,"

WERE ORIGINALLY LONGFELLOW'S,
BUT ARE NOW SO WELL-KNOWN

THEY'RE SIMPLY PART
OF THE AMERICAN LEXICON.

MAINE'S WEALTH IS NOT
JUST ITS WRITERS AND POETS,

BUT ALSO ITS WILDERNESS.

IN THE 17th CENTURY, IT WAS
ENGLAND'S DEMAND FOR LUMBER

THAT DROVE
THE SETTLEMENT OF MAINE.

THROUGH THE 18th CENTURY,
LUMBER BARONS GREW RICH

ON THE STATE'S FABLED FORESTS
OF OAK, PINE AND SPRUCE.

AND THE CITY OF BANGOR,
LOCATED ON THE PENOBSCOT RIVER,

PLAYED A MAJOR ROLE
IN THE TIMBER TRADE.

AT THE ENTRANCE OF BANGOR
STANDS EVIDENCE

OF JUST HOW SERIOUS
THIS TOWN IS ABOUT ITS LUMBER.

A 31-FOOT TALL STATUE

OF THE MYTHICAL LUMBERJACK
PAUL BUNYAN.

UNTIL THE 1870s, BANGOR WAS
THE LUMBER CAPITAL OF THE WORLD

WITH A BILLION FEET OF TIMBER

SHIPPED FROM ITS DOCKS
DOWN THE PENOBSCOT RIVER.

BY THE 20th CENTURY,
THE LUMBER TRADE HAD MOVED WEST

AND BANGOR'S GLORY DAYS
WERE OVER.

TODAY BANGOR'S ECONOMY IS BASED
ON WHOLESALE AND RETAIL TRADE.

IT'S ONCE AGAIN A THRIVING CITY

AND THE COMMERCIAL AND CULTURAL
CENTER OF EASTERN MAINE.

THE CITY IS ALSO HOME

TO ONE OF THE MOST PROLIFIC
AUTHORS IN THE WORLD,

CREDITED WITH ALMOST
AS MANY MOVIES AS BOOKS.

"ONCE UPON A TIME,
NOT SO LONG AGO,

A MONSTER CAME TO THE SMALL TOWN
OF CASTLE ROCK, MAINE."

SO BEGINS THE THRILLER CUJO,

PENNED BY THE GRAND MASTER OF
THE MACABRE, STEPHEN KING.

MAINE BORN AND RAISED,

KING NOW MAKES HIS HOME IN
AN OLD LUMBER BARON'S MANSION.

HIS BEST SELLING HORROR STORIES
FROM CARRIE TO THE MIST

OFTEN FEATURE REAL MAINE TOWNS

AND FICTIONAL ONES LIKE
CASTLE ROCK AS A BACKDROP.

IN KEEPING WITH KING'S
DARK SENSE OF HUMOR,

HIS HOME IS PROTECTED BY A GATE
ADORNED WITH BATS AND SPIDERS.

JUST SOUTH OF BANGOR,
IT'S THE DIZZYING HEIGHTS

OF PENOBSCOT NARROWS BRIDGE
THAT CAN FRIGHTEN VISITORS.

IT'S THE TALLEST PUBLIC BRIDGE
OBSERVATORY IN THE WORLD

AND REQUIRES A RIDE
IN THE FASTEST ELEVATOR

IN MAINE TO GET THERE.

FROM 420 FEET IN THE AIR,
THE VIEWS

OF THE PENOBSCOT NARROWS BRIDGE

AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE
ARE BREATHTAKING.

SO TOO IS THE SYMMETRY OF ONE OF

THE NATION'S BEST
PRESERVED FORTS.

NAMED AFTER HENRY KNOX,

AMERICA'S FIRST SECRETARY
OF WAR, AND FINISHED IN 1844,

IT WAS THE FIRST FORT IN MAINE
TO BE BUILT OF GRANITE.

WHILE THIS FORT KNOX DOESN'T
HOLD AMERICA'S GOLD,

IT LOOKS LIKE
IT WOULD BE SAFE HERE.

MAINE'S GREAT FORESTS PART
TO REVEAL BLUEBERRY FARMS,

LAKES AND RIVERS THAT MAKE
THIS BREAK IN THE TREES

SEEM VERY OUT OF PLACE.

THE DESERT OF MAINE.

ITS VERY STRANGE STORY BEGINS
MORE THAN 10,000 YEARS AGO

WHEN THE GLACIERS
OF THE LAST ICE AGE

GROUND SOIL AND ROCKS INTO
A LAYER OF DESERT-LIKE SAND

SOME 80 FEET DEEP.

OVER TIME, TOPSOIL MADE
A CAP OVER THE DESERT

HIDING IT UNTIL COLONIAL FARMERS
AND SHEEPHERDERS

ERODED THE SOIL.

AND THEN THE DESERT
OF MAINE REAPPEARED.

AT THE SOUTH END OF CASCO BAY,
THE MAINE COASTLINE CHANGES.

HERE, THE SANDY
SHORELINE OF THE SOUTH

BREAKS INTO A SERIES OF ISLANDS
CARVED BY MELTING GLACIERS

THOUSANDS OF YEARS AGO--
THE CALENDAR ISLANDS.

THE ISLANDS WE SEE TODAY
WERE ONCE MOUNTAINS

UNTIL THEY WERE DROWNED
BY A SEA OF MELTING ICE.

WHILE ALL THE ISLANDS
HAVE FELT NATURE'S WRATH,

ONE TRAGIC STORY OF
MAN'S INHUMANITY

BEGAN HERE ON HARBOR ISLAND.

IN 1794, BENJAMIN DARLING,

A FORMER SLAVE
FROM THE WEST INDIES,

BOUGHT THIS ISLAND
WITH THE MONEY HE WAS GIVEN

FOR SAVING HIS MASTER'S LIFE
IN A SHIPWRECK.

HE CALLED IT HORSE ISLAND.

OVER GENERATIONS,
HIS DESCENDANTS SETTLED

ON THE NEARBY ISLAND OF MALAGA,

WHERE THEY INTERMARRIED
WITH WHITES

AND EKED OUT A LIVING
FROM THE SEA.

AFTER THE CIVIL WAR,

SUSPICION OF THE MIXED RACE
COMMUNITY GREW.

NEWSPAPER ARTICLES CALLED IT

"A BLIGHT ON AN OTHERWISE
PICTURESQUE ISLE."

IN 1912, IN A SAD CHAPTER
OF THE STATE'S HISTORY,

THE GOVERNMENT DECIDED
MALAGA WAS AN EMBARRASSMENT.

THE STATE COMMITTED EIGHT PEOPLE

TO THE MAINE SCHOOL
FOR THE FEEBLE-MINDED

AND EVICTED THE REST.

THEY EVEN DESTROYED
THE ISLAND'S CEMETERY.

SOME FAMILIES MOVED
THEIR HOMES TO THE MAINLAND.

OTHERS MOVED TO NEARBY ISLANDS.

A FEW MAY EVEN HAVE ENDED UP
BACK HERE ON HARBOR ISLAND.

WITH TREACHEROUS TIDES,
HIDDEN REEFS

AND SHOALS STRETCHING
3,500 MILES, IT'S NO SURPRISE

THAT MAINE'S COASTLINE
HAS 60 LIGHTHOUSES.

LOOK IN YOUR POCKET AND YOU MAY
FIND THIS ONE ON A COIN.

IT'S THE PEMAQUID POINT LIGHT,
CHOSEN BY THE STATE'S RESIDENTS

TO BE FEATURED
ON THE MAINE QUARTER.

IN 1635, BEFORE THE LIGHT WAS
BUILT, A MAN NAMED JOHN BAILEY

SAILED FOR THE NEW WORLD LEAVING
HIS WIFE BEHIND TO FOLLOW HIM

ONCE HE HAD ESTABLISHED A HOME.

BUT HIS SHIP, THE ANGEL GABRIEL,

WAS SMASHED TO PIECES
IN A STORM HERE.

AND ALTHOUGH BAILEY SURVIVED,

HIS WIFE WAS AFRAID
TO FOLLOW HIM.

THEY NEVER SAW EACH OTHER AGAIN.

PEMAQUID POINT LIGHT WAS BUILT
ON THE MAINLAND IN 1827.

FROM ITS LEDGE-TOP TOWER
THE LIGHT SHINES

14 NAUTICAL MILES OUT TO SEA,

IN THE HOPE THAT NO MORE SHIPS
WILL FOUNDER ON THE ROCKS BELOW.

ONE OF THE MOST IDYLLIC
RAILWAYS IN THE COUNTRY,

THE MAINE EASTERN,
CROSSES THE SHEEPSCOT RIVER

TO REACH A PERFECTLY PRESERVED
MAINE VILLAGE: WISCASSET.

AT THE START OF
THE 19th CENTURY,

THIS WAS THE BUSIEST
PORT IN THE STATE.

SOME SAY THAT THERE WERE SO MANY
SHIPS ANCHORED OFF WISCASSET,

YOU COULD CROSS THE HARBOR,
STEPPING DECK TO DECK.

THE TOWN PROUDLY CALLS ITSELF
"MAINE'S PRETTIEST VILLAGE"

AND FROM THE AIR,
WITH ITS HISTORIC HOUSES

SET OFF AGAINST A BACKDROP OF
COLORFUL FALL LEAVES,

IT'S EASY TO SEE WHY.

ONE OF THE GREAT WALKS
IN MAINE HAS TO BE

ALONG THE GRANITE BREAKWATER
OF ROCKLAND HARBOR.

COMPLETED IN 1899,
THE BREAKWATER

LEADS TO A LIGHTHOUSE
ON PENOBSCOT BAY.

FISHING VESSELS AND FERRIES

PASS BY THE GRANITE LEDGE
ALL YEAR LONG.

AND IN JULY THE BREAKWATER
BECOMES THE SITE

OF THE ANNUAL MAINE
WINDJAMMER PARADE

FEATURING A DISPLAY OF
TURN-OF-THE-CENTURY CARGO SHIPS.

ON THE WEST SIDE
OF PENOBSCOT BAY,

THE BUSY FISHING PORT OF
ROCKLAND IS KNOWN TO VISITORS

AS THE PLACE TO CATCH FERRIES

TO THE SPLENDID
ISLANDS OF THE BAY.

SOUTHWEST OF ROCKLAND,
IN THE VILLAGE OF CUSHING,

IS A SITE MADE FAMOUS
BY PAINTER ANDREW WYETH.

HERE, A STARK,
WEATHER-BEATEN FARMHOUSE

OVERLOOKS A RIVER AND
IN THE DISTANCE, THE SEA.

IN THE 1940s, THE OLSON FAMILY,
WHO OWNED THE HOUSE,

OFFERED A YOUNG
ANDREW WYETH A ROOM

AS A PART-TIME STUDIO.

WYETH DEPICTED THE OLSON HOUSE

IN HIS HAUNTING PAINTING
CHRISTINA'S WORLD.

IN THE PAINTING A YOUNG GIRL,
DISABLED WITH POLIO,

CRAWLS UP THE HILL
TOWARDS HER HOUSE.

IT'S ONE OF THE BEST-KNOWN
WORKS OF AMERICAN ART,

NOW EXHIBITED
IN NEW YORK'S MOMA.

FROM THE TIME HE MADE HIS FIRST
DRAWINGS OF MAINE'S ISLANDS

AT AGE TEN
UNTIL HIS DEATH IN 2009,

WYETH CAPTURED
A VISION OF RURAL MAINE

THAT IS BOTH BEAUTIFUL
AND SYMBOLIC.

OF THE OLSON HOUSE, WYETH SAID,

"I JUST COULDN'T STAY AWAY
FROM THERE, IT WAS MAINE."

FURTHER UP THE COAST TO
THE NORTH LIES ROCKPORT,

AN ARTISTS' COLONY WITH ONE OF

THE LOVELIEST HARBORS
IN THE STATE.

UNSPOILED BY OVERDEVELOPMENT,
ITS NARROW HARBOR

SERVES BOTH THE WORKING
LOBSTER BOATS

AND CLASSIC WOODEN
SAILING SHIPS.

ROUNDING THE PENINSULA
NORTH FROM ROCKPORT,

THE TOWN OF CAMDEN LIES NESTLED
AMID GENTLY SLOPING MOUNTAINS

AT THE EDGE OF
A SHELTERED HARBOR.

THE TOWN THAT BEGAN
AS A FISHING VILLAGE

IS STILL A PLACE WHERE PEOPLE
MAKE THEIR LIVING FROM THE SEA,

NOT FROM FISHING
BUT FROM TOURISTS

EAGER TO EXPLORE THE OCEANSIDE.

TODAY THE HARBOR BUZZES
WITH PLEASURE CRAFT

AND THE HOMES OF
19th CENTURY SEA CAPTAINS

HAVE BECOME LUXURY HOTELS.

IT WAS IN ONE OF THOSE HOTELS,
THE WHITEHALL INN,

THAT THE YOUNG
EDNA ST. VINCENT MILLAY

RECITED HER AWARD-WINNING POEM,
RENASCENCE.

ELEVEN YEARS LATER,
MILLAY BECAME THE FIRST WOMAN

TO WIN A PULITZER PRIZE
FOR POETRY.

TODAY 6,5000 ACRES
OF THE CAMDEN HILLS,

WHICH INSPIRED MILLAY'S POETRY,
ARE PRESERVED AS A STATE PARK.

RENASCENCE DESCRIBES
BOTH THE LANDSCAPE

AND A STATE OF MIND.

"ALL I COULD SEE
FROM WHERE I STOOD,

WAS THREE LONG MOUNTAINS
AND A WOOD,

I TURNED AND LOOKED ANOTHER WAY,
AND SAW THREE ISLANDS IN A BAY.

SO WITH MY EYES
I TRACED THE LINE

OF THE HORIZON, THIN AND FINE,

STRAIGHT AROUND TILL I WAS COME

BACK TO WHERE I'D STARTED FROM;

AND ALL I SAW FROM WHERE I STOOD

WAS THREE LONG MOUNTAINS
AND A WOOD."

THE POEM, WHICH BECAME THE TITLE
OF MILLAY'S FIRST BOOK,

IS STILL A FAVORITE OF THOSE
WHO CHOOSE TO WANDER HERE

AMONG THE HILLS
AND WOODS OF MAINE.

FOR THOSE WHO'D RATHER
CLIMB THAN WANDER,

MOUNT BATTIE OFFERS STUNNING
VIEWS OF CAMDEN

AND THE ISLANDS
OF PENOBSCOT BAY.

NORTHEAST OF CAMDEN IS A SMALL
PENINSULA THAT HOLDS CASTINE.

ITS TRANQUIL IMAGE
BELIES A COLORFUL PAST.

IN THE 17th CENTURY
IT WAS FOUGHT OVER

BY THE ENGLISH,
FRENCH AND DUTCH.

IT TAKES ITS NAME FROM
BARON DE ST. CASTIN,

A YOUNG FRENCHMAN WHO MARRIED
A NATIVE PENOBSCOT PRINCESS

AND BECAME AN ABENAKI CHIEF.

THE BRITISH TOOK CASTINE DURING
THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION,

BUILDING FORT GEORGE
AS A DEFENSE

AGAINST THE COLONIAL FORCES.

TODAY IT'S THE SITE
OF A LOCAL BALLFIELD.

IN AN ILL-FATED MISSION CALLED
THE PENOBSCOT EXPEDITION,

AMERICANS TRIED BUT FAILED
TO RETAKE CASTINE.

AFTER THE BRITISH NAVY
SET THEIR SHIPS ABLAZE,

REVOLUTIONARY TROOPS
WERE FORCED TO FLEE

OVERLAND BACK TO BOSTON.

IT WAS THE GREATEST
AMERICAN NAVAL DISASTER

UNTIL PEARL HARBOR.

THE "DOWN EAST COAST,"
AS MAINERS CALL EVERYTHING

EAST OF PENOBSCOT BAY,
IS SIMPLY A SAILOR'S PARADISE.

SAILING ALONG THE COAST
ON A FAIR WIND FROM CASTINE,

VESSELS ARRIVE AT ONE
OF THE GREATEST TREASURES

OF THE UNITED STATES:
ACADIA NATIONAL PARK.

THE PARK INCLUDES
MOUNT DESERT ISLAND,

THE LARGEST ISLAND IN MAINE.

THE NAME COMES FROM FRENCH
EXPLORER SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN

WHO LANDED ON THE ISLAND
IN 1604.

HE WROTE IN HIS JOURNAL,

"THE MOUNTAIN SUMMITS
ARE ALL BARE AND ROCKY.

I NAME IT ISLAND
OF DESERT MOUNTAINS."

CENTURIES LATER,
ACADIA BECAME THE SUMMER HOME

OF THE ROBBER BARONS
OF THE GILDED AGE:

THE ROCKEFELLERS,
MORGANS AND VANDERBILTS.

THEY WERE DRAWN BY THE PAINTINGS

OF THOMAS COLE
AND FREDERIC CHURCH,

WHO CAPTURED THE ISLAND'S
AWE-INSPIRING WILDERNESS.

J.P. MORGAN MOORED
HIS YACHT IN THE HARBOR

AND OTHER WEALTHY RESIDENTS
ENTERTAINED GUESTS

IN LAVISH HOUSES BY THE SEA.

BUT AS MORE AND MORE
PEOPLE INHABITED THE AREA,

THE WILDERNESS
STARTED TO DISAPPEAR.

REALIZING THAT AMERICA'S WILD
LANDS WOULDN'T LAST FOREVER,

A GROUP OF PHILANTHROPISTS
STEPPED IN.

IN 1901 THE ROCKEFELLERS
AND OTHERS

BEGAN BUYING HUGE TRACTS OF
FORESTS FOR PUBLIC USE.

AND IN 1919 THEY CONVINCED
WASHINGTON TO DECLARE THE AREA

THE FIRST NATIONAL PARK
EAST OF THE MISSISSIPPI.

TODAY DESERT ISLAND'S BAR HARBOR
IS FAR LESS EXCLUSIVE,

BUT IT REMAINS A BEAUTIFUL
SEASIDE TOWN.

HIGH ABOVE THE HARBOR
STANDS CADILLAC MOUNTAIN,

CLIMBING OVER 1,500 FEET.

THIS IS THE HIGHEST POINT
ALONG THE NORTH ATLANTIC COAST,

AND IS SAID TO BE THE FIRST
PLACE IN THE UNITED STATES

TO RECEIVE THE SUN'S
RAYS EACH DAY.

BUT EXPLORING ACADIA
NATIONAL PARK FROM THE SEA

CAN BE EVEN MORE EXCITING.

THE MARGARET TODD SAILS FROM
BAR HARBOR SEVERAL TIMES A DAY.

SHE WAS BUILT IN 1998
IN THE STYLE

OF A TRADITIONAL CARGO SCHOONER.

BUT THESE BOATS ARE NOW KNOWN
LOCALLY AS WINDJAMMERS.

SOME SAY THE NAME WINDJAMMERS
WAS THE DEROGATORY TERM

USED BY EARLY STEAMSHIP SAILORS
TO DESCRIBE THE CREWS

OF OLD FASHIONED
WIND-POWERED CARGO SHIPS.

IN 1935, ARTIST FRANK SWIFT

BEGAN BUYING UP
THESE OLD MASTED VESSELS.

HE REFIT THEM FOR PASSENGERS,

AND OPENED THE FIRST BUSINESS
OF ITS KIND.

THUS BEGAN THE FIRST
FLEET OF WINDJAMMERS

FOR SAILING IN AMERICA.

SINCE THEN, THOUSANDS
HAVE ENJOYED THE THRILL

OF SAILING A TALL SHIP
OUT TO SEA.

BUT MAINE'S VISITORS DON'T
JUST COME FOR ITS TALL SHIPS.

THE STATE IS FAMOUS
FOR ITS LOBSTERS,

AND AT ONE TIME
THEY WERE SO PLENTIFUL

THEY WERE CONSIDERED
PAUPER'S FOOD.

IT'S SAID THAT INDENTURED
SERVANTS IN THE 18th CENTURY

LOBBIED TO BE FED LOBSTER
NO MORE THAN TWICE A WEEK.

MAINE'S LOBSTERMEN STILL
HAVE TO CATCH THE CREATURES

JUST AS THEY HAVE
FOR A HUNDRED YEARS,

ONE TRAP AT A TIME.

BUT FISHERMEN HERE
DON'T JUST CATCH LOBSTERS.

ON THE FAR NORTH COAST,

STRANGE PATTERNS CAN BE SEEN
FLOATING ON THE WATER.

THEY ARE A RECENT PHENOMENON,

AND THE FOCUS OF
A BITTER DISPUTE

BETWEEN FISHERMEN
AND ENVIRONMENTALISTS.

AT COBSCOOK BAY,
YOUNG ATLANTIC SALMON

LEAP IN THEIR CIRCULAR PENS.

MILLIONS ARE RAISED
IN THIS BAY ALONE

TO FEED AMERICA'S GROWING
APPETITE FOR FISH.

SADLY, WILD SALMON ARE
IN DRASTIC DECLINE,

AND SOME OF THE BLAME
IS PLACED

ON THE SPREAD OF DISEASES
FROM FARMS LIKE THESE.

BUT THESE FISHERMEN ARGUE
THAT THEY ARE JUST FOLLOWING

IN THE PATH OF GENERATIONS
OF MAINERS,

HARVESTING THE FRUITS
OF THE SEA.

DESPITE ITS NAME, THE WEST
QUODDY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE

STANDS AT THE EASTERNMOST TIP
OF THE UNITED STATES.

IT IS ONE OF ONLY
TWO LIGHTS IN THE NATION

TO HAVE DISTINCTIVE
RED AND WHITE STRIPES,

A FEATURE THAT WAS COMMON
TO CANADIAN LIGHTHOUSES,

HELPING THEM STAND OUT
AGAINST THE SNOW.

AT NIGHT ITS LIGHT DRAWS
WEARY MAINERS HOME FROM THE SEA

TO A STATE OF STUNNING
NATURAL BEAUTY.

AERIAL MAINE IS
A JOURNEY ACROSS THE STATE

OF POETS, PAINTERS
AND PRESIDENTS.

IT'S THE "DOWN EAST"
STATE OF WINDSWEPT ISLES

AND GREAT PINE FORESTS.

THE PLACE WHERE DAWN
FIRST BREAKS ON THE NATION

AND HARBOR LIGHTS GUIDE SAILORS
AFTER THE SUN SETS.

FINALLY, AT JOURNEY'S END,
SHIPS FIND WELCOME HARBOR

ON THE "MAINE" LAND--MAINE.