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Is this yak wool ? - No it's sheep wool.
So you were a cook in the Indian Army ?
Yes, I served as a cook.
Then in the war you were captured ?
Yes, I was captured by the Chinese Army in 1962
I was kept in prison for six months
Then I was released.
Didn't you have problems getting back to nomadic life ?
Sure, I have problems I feel cold here
You see, we don't have any money, so we have to survive somehow
If you have money you can simply open a shop and sit back
poverty forces us to wander on these mountains
How do you survive in the harsh climate here ?
What can one do? It's a necessity. This is our work
We don't have regularjobs, so we graze & rear sheep
When they grow old, we sell them to butchers
if we sell 15 - 20 of them, we break even
what does Changthang Plateau mean to you ?
Changthang means the land of less people
where there are no people, no villages, that is Changthang
just an empty space
Please have some sir, Please why don't you begin ?
Have some more No.. No.. I'll have tea
What? Are you through ? No No I'll Have some more
no, no what are you saying, Gaurav ?
Where will I find Chang pa nomads ? The ones living in tents
you will find the Changpas near Khargyam
If you want the pure ones the really good ones
you have to go to Khargyam
just don't go beyond Sagga
Beyond Sagga is China
if cross over you will be immediately shot dead
Don't laugh, I'm notjoking
Is the track to Khargyam motorable ? - Yes it is
What is your name ?
My name ? Sanam Sanam ?
Sanam Tsering
His name is Sonam & yours is Sanam ?
yes Sanam Phulchok Sanam...
This is too much, I can't eat so much.
Its nothing you have to travel up to Chusul, just eat up
Don't make a fuss You're a young man
You'll get tired going around in the mountains
When was this Photo clicked ?
Many years ago there was this foreigner who took it
Then he sent it to us by post
I heard he was a village headman
Yes he was He had more than 200 tents under him
My father helped many who ran from Tibet during the war
The lndo-China War ?
Yes in the year 1965
He gave refuge to almost 25 families
& they did quite well here under his leadership
Others would say "there is no grass here please don't come"
But my father said "We'll be happy to have you here"
He was so good even the Dalai Lama had heard his name.
He died at the age of eighty five
But he did a lot of good work in his life
What do you say for '|aa|' in English ?
Red It's' called red.
And for 'Kaala' is it 'Bilik' ? Black yes it's black
'Safed' is White
And for 'Hara' ? Green yes green
The grass is green
Sky is blue Blue...
Blue is 'nee|a'
What do you call the 'Hanmen' above ?
'Bada|' ? Thats called cloud. Cloud...
Sir, when did you buy this coat?
twenty five years ago.
How much did it cost you ?
I paid thirty thousand Rupees
Thirty Thousand ? thats quite expensive
And how many wolf skins were used to make this coat?
That I can't say, I don't know.
I bought it from Tibet..
I mean I bought it from China from a trader.
You've been living for so long in the mountains
You have no dearth of money
Your children own houses, vehicles...
So why do you choose to live in the grasslands ?
Its not that easy to quit this
I was born in a Rebo In the midst of goats & sheep
I feel stifled in a house I am happy to be with my flock
You inherited your father's Rebo Also the family deities
But I don't think your son is interested in being a herdsman
I am not at all happy about it.
lwould have been happy If Urugan was here with me
But what can I do ? He doesn't like being a herdsman
But I'm much happier to live in the open.
A Changpa's life is with his animals. What else can he do ?
If you don't have money you can sell the wool
In a few months you'll have money
We cannot go and work for others We are not used to it
If you grow up among sheep & goats drink fresh milk, eat curd,
then you know what real happiness is
Is this your mug ?
Yes .. yes I'll join you after recording this.
You don't want tea ?
Yes, yes just give me a minute
When will the money be paid ?
The money will be given much later For now his word is enough.
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