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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:46,490 --> 00:00:49,620 You can look back on the history and you can interview a lot of people 2 00:00:49,700 --> 00:00:52,870 and they're gonna tell you about this notion of the 100-foot wave. 3 00:00:53,040 --> 00:00:54,710 - The 100-foot wave. - 100-foot wave. 4 00:00:54,880 --> 00:00:56,460 - 100-foot wave. - The 100-foot wave. 5 00:00:56,630 --> 00:00:57,710 The 100-foot wave. 6 00:00:59,000 --> 00:01:02,220 If people wonder where that concept came from, 7 00:01:02,380 --> 00:01:05,260 I'm gonna tell you right now, it was me. 8 00:01:05,970 --> 00:01:11,680 I sproposed that idea as one of my many projects over the years. It was laughed 9 00:01:11,850 --> 00:01:16,730 at first but then people went, there are 100-foot waves. Maybe bigger. 10 00:01:16,810 --> 00:01:20,690 When Garrett rode the giant wave in 2011, 11 00:01:20,780 --> 00:01:25,070 it was clearly the World Record biggest wave that had been ridden. 12 00:01:25,240 --> 00:01:26,660 It just came out of left field. 13 00:01:28,450 --> 00:01:33,870 It was such a shocker for everyone throughout the surfing world 14 00:01:34,040 --> 00:01:37,540 big waves they come in Hawaii, on the West Coast, not in the Atlantic. 15 00:01:38,750 --> 00:01:43,300 But lo and behold the biggest waves in the world are there in Nazar�. 16 00:01:43,380 --> 00:01:46,340 Seeing Garrett ride these waves resonated with people 17 00:01:46,430 --> 00:01:50,430 watching a tiny little surfer conning down this massive wave and then 18 00:01:50,510 --> 00:01:55,230 ygoing past this ancient structure that's been there since the 1500s. 19 00:01:55,390 --> 00:01:57,310 You couldn't have made that up. 20 00:01:58,230 --> 00:02:01,320 And there are giant waves starting in October all winter long, 21 00:02:01,480 --> 00:02:02,610 every three days. 22 00:02:02,780 --> 00:02:07,570 It's just the most amazing wave factory that exists on the planet. 23 00:02:07,740 --> 00:02:14,040 One of the most, if not the most famous surf spot in the world right now. 24 00:02:15,330 --> 00:02:19,960 But any surfer who's been involved in the pioneering of a big wave break 25 00:02:20,040 --> 00:02:23,550 can't help but feel some kind of ownership to it. 26 00:02:23,630 --> 00:02:28,510 It's got to be difficult for Garrett to see this starlet he discovered 27 00:02:28,590 --> 00:02:31,600 sort of dating other handsome dudes. 28 00:02:33,810 --> 00:02:36,310 But that's just the way that things go. 29 00:02:41,440 --> 00:02:46,150 Check out these monster 100-foot waves off Portugal. 30 00:02:46,240 --> 00:02:50,120 The biggest wave ever surfed. As high as 100 feet. 31 00:02:50,200 --> 00:02:53,660 To put it in perspective, that is taller than an 8-story building. 32 00:02:53,740 --> 00:02:56,960 Surfers are always looking for the next great thing. 33 00:02:57,120 --> 00:03:01,040 It often breaks those brave or crazy board riders. 34 00:03:01,130 --> 00:03:04,670 Severe white routes and waves of mind boggling heights. 35 00:03:04,760 --> 00:03:07,720 What happens here, happens nowhere else in the world. 36 00:03:07,880 --> 00:03:09,470 The biggest wave ever surfed. 37 00:03:09,550 --> 00:03:13,810 The biggest wave ever. A 100-foot wave. 38 00:03:16,180 --> 00:03:19,600 100 Foot Wave 39 00:03:21,060 --> 00:03:24,780 Chapter 5 The Circus 40 00:03:26,490 --> 00:03:29,740 Nazar�, Portugal 2019 Season 10 41 00:03:31,700 --> 00:03:35,490 No one would have had Portugal on their top ten list of 42 00:03:35,660 --> 00:03:40,540 water sports destinations ten years ago. But now 43 00:03:40,710 --> 00:03:44,040 yevery important big wave surfer goes there, 44 00:03:44,130 --> 00:03:46,880 late October, early November, to train. 45 00:03:47,840 --> 00:03:52,260 And now the women with Maya and Justine, it's really becoming 46 00:03:52,430 --> 00:03:55,680 a much more diverse time in Big Wave surfing. 47 00:03:56,810 --> 00:03:58,640 Maya came very early on. 48 00:04:00,520 --> 00:04:02,650 She had a very bad experience 49 00:04:04,110 --> 00:04:07,780 and overcame the traumatic experience 50 00:04:09,030 --> 00:04:14,740 and became the most determined, the most focused big wave surfing woman. 51 00:04:16,200 --> 00:04:20,250 I had a pretty guilty feeling after the accident 52 00:04:20,410 --> 00:04:24,040 of wanting something too bad that it almost killed me. 53 00:04:25,290 --> 00:04:28,050 If you ask me what made me come back, 54 00:04:28,800 --> 00:04:34,010 I didn't want the accident to shape the rest of my life. 55 00:04:37,220 --> 00:04:39,270 January 18th, 2018. 56 00:04:39,810 --> 00:04:43,350 We went out really early. It was super cold. 57 00:04:43,520 --> 00:04:45,810 All the waves were especially big 58 00:04:45,980 --> 00:04:49,610 and I knew that if I rode a wave that day 59 00:04:49,780 --> 00:04:53,200 it was probably be a world record for a woman. 60 00:04:55,450 --> 00:04:58,240 And when it came I just knew it. 61 00:05:00,410 --> 00:05:04,790 I knew the wave had a lot of potential. I knew there was a lot of water moving. 62 00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:07,960 I knew that I didn't want to fall. 63 00:05:08,840 --> 00:05:11,670 When I see that video, I can barely believe it's me. 64 00:05:14,380 --> 00:05:18,010 That wave got me the woman's world record. 65 00:05:18,100 --> 00:05:21,730 She ended up with the world record and 66 00:05:21,890 --> 00:05:24,350 I was so stoked. 67 00:05:25,940 --> 00:05:30,030 For a while she was the only girl trying to charge. 68 00:05:32,320 --> 00:05:34,240 And then Justine came along 69 00:05:35,700 --> 00:05:39,490 and they're both just amazing, amazing athletes. 70 00:05:40,580 --> 00:05:45,580 In big wave surfing the girls are just as capable as the guys. 71 00:05:48,040 --> 00:05:52,300 Justine is one of the standout surfers in Nazar�. 72 00:05:53,010 --> 00:05:56,090 Paddle, tow-in, stand up, short board. 73 00:05:56,260 --> 00:05:58,640 She's amazing at all of it. 74 00:05:59,810 --> 00:06:03,890 She brought some of the biggest waves that are out there this year. 75 00:06:05,770 --> 00:06:08,190 I surf because I just love it. That's all. 76 00:06:08,270 --> 00:06:13,820 To me surfing a wave is about being present and being alive. 77 00:06:14,740 --> 00:06:20,370 To me there isn't a question of gender between being a man or a woman surfer. 78 00:06:20,530 --> 00:06:24,410 You are seen as a surfer 79 00:06:24,500 --> 00:06:28,290 and seen by the way you behave. It's that simple. 80 00:06:29,790 --> 00:06:31,960 I was happy when I first got here to see Maya. 81 00:06:32,130 --> 00:06:38,220 She didn't ask herself if another woman had gone to Nazar� before her. 82 00:06:39,340 --> 00:06:42,390 This was the first place I felt 83 00:06:42,560 --> 00:06:47,230 not judged by me being a woman in the water. 84 00:06:47,730 --> 00:06:51,820 This small community, nobody cared that I was a woman. Which is 85 00:06:51,980 --> 00:06:54,900 not something I can say about Hawaii, and other places. 86 00:06:55,070 --> 00:07:00,160 I was accepted as I am. It didn't matter if I was a woman or a man. 87 00:07:01,070 --> 00:07:03,660 I had my own surf technique. 88 00:07:03,830 --> 00:07:09,620 So I was respected because they saw me as a good surfer. 89 00:07:12,210 --> 00:07:16,090 What she does and the commitment she has in everything she does... 90 00:07:16,170 --> 00:07:17,300 It's amazing. 91 00:07:20,220 --> 00:07:22,760 I have Fred with me at all times. He is a fish in the sea. 92 00:07:22,930 --> 00:07:29,060 He is a lifeguard and a professional bodysurfer. 93 00:07:30,650 --> 00:07:35,570 It's great having my boyfriend, 94 00:07:35,650 --> 00:07:39,490 my partner, my love with me in the water. 95 00:07:40,910 --> 00:07:44,950 I chose to live my life with these big waves in Nazar� for now. 96 00:07:45,120 --> 00:07:48,410 Yes I'd love to catch a giant wave 97 00:07:48,500 --> 00:07:54,170 and I think every surfer that comes to Nazar� shares the same desire. 98 00:07:55,380 --> 00:07:58,300 More than 20,000 flashes of lightning were recorded 99 00:07:58,380 --> 00:08:01,470 as the storm raged throughout Saturday and into Sunday. 100 00:08:02,260 --> 00:08:06,390 Rain warnings in effect for pretty much all of Portugal at this time. 101 00:08:07,310 --> 00:08:08,520 In addition to this, 102 00:08:08,600 --> 00:08:12,940 the red surf warning in effect for some of those coastal areas. 103 00:08:14,060 --> 00:08:17,150 Night before the swell 104 00:08:17,980 --> 00:08:21,110 Come see what we're getting tomorrow. 105 00:08:21,280 --> 00:08:23,110 It's a rare one. 106 00:08:23,280 --> 00:08:25,910 Huge and coming right at us. 107 00:08:26,990 --> 00:08:30,960 That's sick. It's the entire ocean. 108 00:08:31,040 --> 00:08:33,830 I have faith that it'll be here by the afternoon. 109 00:08:49,060 --> 00:08:50,600 That's tight, eh? 110 00:08:55,440 --> 00:08:58,150 I'm kinda feeling like I might catch a wave. 111 00:08:59,940 --> 00:09:02,530 It's so clean. Why wouldn't I? 112 00:09:06,620 --> 00:09:10,370 Because you had a foot operation like six weeks ago. 113 00:09:10,540 --> 00:09:13,120 Yeah but when I'm flat footed, it's fine. 114 00:09:14,500 --> 00:09:19,380 Just don't put it back. It's not even halfway through the winter. 115 00:09:25,220 --> 00:09:29,510 Morning of the swell 116 00:09:30,850 --> 00:09:36,020 I remember kind of thinking it still might be possible the whole time. 117 00:09:36,520 --> 00:09:38,570 And I almost was gonna surf. 118 00:09:40,150 --> 00:09:44,490 I was in my hotel room and I was looking in the mirror, 119 00:09:44,570 --> 00:09:47,530 talking to myself, trying to figure it out. 120 00:09:47,700 --> 00:09:50,290 Playing through the different scenarios. 121 00:09:50,450 --> 00:09:51,700 Is that a Patagonia suit? 122 00:09:51,790 --> 00:09:55,710 I felt confident about driving and putting Cotty and CJ on waves. 123 00:09:56,370 --> 00:10:00,130 But I didn't feel confident about taking a big wipeout. 124 00:10:03,050 --> 00:10:06,970 I'm just doing my best to stay calm and patient. 125 00:10:07,050 --> 00:10:11,180 I'm feeling like we should be at the Harbor going into the water already. 126 00:10:12,020 --> 00:10:15,640 But it doesn't matter, I'm not surfing. 127 00:10:21,020 --> 00:10:22,570 Do you get nervous? 128 00:10:24,990 --> 00:10:26,400 Oh yeah. 129 00:10:29,820 --> 00:10:34,410 I probably get more nervous about the fact that it's CJ instead of Garrett. 130 00:10:39,380 --> 00:10:41,710 There's a really perfect, clean swell. 131 00:10:41,880 --> 00:10:45,670 The kind of days that I really look forward to surfing here in Nazar�. 132 00:10:46,970 --> 00:10:49,760 I'm gonna put CJ on the wave of his life today. 133 00:10:49,930 --> 00:10:53,260 The only one you want is you want this, or you want this. 134 00:10:53,350 --> 00:10:56,520 This one to come right here in the middle. Then this one's hollow. 135 00:10:56,600 --> 00:10:58,980 I'd say there are going to be at least 30 skis out there 136 00:10:59,150 --> 00:11:01,860 so it's going to be pretty crowded. 137 00:11:03,190 --> 00:11:04,980 This is actually the best it's been looking. 138 00:11:05,150 --> 00:11:07,400 Look at that, that looks fucking nice. 139 00:11:07,490 --> 00:11:11,780 Once we've realized Garrett's foot was messed up and he wasn't gonna surf, 140 00:11:11,950 --> 00:11:16,960 it kind of put Garrett, Cotty and I all in our own versions 141 00:11:17,040 --> 00:11:19,790 of what's going on here, as opposed to; 142 00:11:19,870 --> 00:11:24,210 okay boom, we're all on the same page. We're healthy, we all want this wave. 143 00:11:24,380 --> 00:11:26,420 The three of us were in different places, you know? 144 00:11:26,510 --> 00:11:28,930 Me with minor injuries still looking to surf. 145 00:11:29,010 --> 00:11:34,680 Garrett like really taking a step back and Cotty like rearing, ready to go. 146 00:11:34,850 --> 00:11:38,270 - What are you thinking? - Don't know really. 147 00:11:38,350 --> 00:11:41,480 Cotty reminds me a lot of myself 148 00:11:42,190 --> 00:11:45,610 as far as his desires and his focus. 149 00:11:46,650 --> 00:11:49,280 It's nice to see him so hungry. 150 00:11:49,360 --> 00:11:51,780 It would be nice to get him what he's looking for. 151 00:11:54,580 --> 00:11:57,700 - Are you excited? - Sort of. Nervous, you know? 152 00:11:57,790 --> 00:12:00,870 - It looks like the magic day. - Yep. 153 00:12:00,960 --> 00:12:03,250 You're excited but nervous. 154 00:12:09,840 --> 00:12:15,010 This was the biggest swell that came through this season, so far. 155 00:12:16,220 --> 00:12:20,940 It was Garrett's first time really driving since the foot injury, and 156 00:12:21,100 --> 00:12:24,020 we were ready for a giant wave to come through. 157 00:12:26,820 --> 00:12:30,320 We're going to offer this to the ocean in thanks and gratitude and also 158 00:12:30,490 --> 00:12:34,740 asking her permission to keep us safe and protect all of us. 159 00:12:34,820 --> 00:12:38,910 That we can all stay present and just soak it all up. 160 00:12:39,000 --> 00:12:41,790 Be in our bodies and have some good experiences. 161 00:12:53,430 --> 00:12:56,720 - Everything cool? - Yes. Hi. 162 00:12:56,800 --> 00:13:00,560 Okay, so we're all linked up now. Is everybody good? 163 00:13:00,730 --> 00:13:03,440 - Does anybody need anything? - All good. 164 00:13:13,240 --> 00:13:15,070 When I got back on the waves 165 00:13:15,910 --> 00:13:20,620 I definitely felt a big uprising 166 00:13:20,790 --> 00:13:24,790 in competitive energy. Just with all the people up there. 167 00:13:24,960 --> 00:13:26,790 It's a circus out there now. 168 00:13:28,170 --> 00:13:31,210 Everyone's there. Ready to go. 169 00:13:31,380 --> 00:13:35,300 Wanting to push the limits, wanting to catch the biggest wave ever. 170 00:13:35,380 --> 00:13:37,510 Look at what you've created. 171 00:13:39,350 --> 00:13:40,810 It's kind of surreal 172 00:13:40,970 --> 00:13:46,730 looking back to how good we had it when we learned about it. 173 00:13:46,810 --> 00:13:51,940 Now there is 20-30 jet skis. 174 00:13:52,690 --> 00:13:54,320 Who's to blame? 175 00:13:55,820 --> 00:13:59,990 Us? You're a victim of your own success. 176 00:14:00,910 --> 00:14:05,210 This is the first time that I'm surfing Nazar� in six years and 177 00:14:05,370 --> 00:14:09,380 I definitely have that feeling of the new kid in school. 178 00:14:09,540 --> 00:14:13,340 All these pros, everyone I see in all the videos and everything. 179 00:14:13,420 --> 00:14:18,550 They don't know who I am and I'm just kinda Garrett's sidekick. 180 00:14:18,640 --> 00:14:22,810 And then there's the other side of that too, the Portuguese people especially, 181 00:14:22,890 --> 00:14:25,430 they would remind me. No you're the original. 182 00:14:25,600 --> 00:14:29,150 You were here with Garrett for the first time. 183 00:14:29,230 --> 00:14:30,560 So that's good too because 184 00:14:30,730 --> 00:14:35,240 I need to learn to claim my moment. 185 00:14:35,400 --> 00:14:37,700 Claim what's rightfully mine, you know? 186 00:14:37,780 --> 00:14:41,870 And if it's just one glorious wave at Nazar� amidst all these people 187 00:14:42,030 --> 00:14:43,620 it's like no, I can get one too. 188 00:14:44,290 --> 00:14:46,000 - Nicole, you up in here? - Yeah. 189 00:14:46,160 --> 00:14:51,090 We're in between first and second peak way outside the furthest out. 190 00:14:51,170 --> 00:14:55,840 A little outside, you might add one that swings in. 191 00:14:56,010 --> 00:15:02,260 I'm basically trying to get one wave and get the biggest wave that I can. 192 00:15:03,430 --> 00:15:07,940 And I see this big set come through. I'm like man, that's the one. 193 00:15:10,770 --> 00:15:13,320 Garrett puts me on the right way up the beach 194 00:15:14,070 --> 00:15:17,150 and I go on this thing and I'm like lining up 195 00:15:17,320 --> 00:15:20,700 and I drop down and I'm just flying so fast 196 00:15:20,780 --> 00:15:23,740 and it's bumping so hard and I'm barely staying on. 197 00:15:23,830 --> 00:15:27,250 I feel like I'm fighting to stay on. 198 00:15:28,660 --> 00:15:32,000 You fall off you're like... 199 00:15:32,840 --> 00:15:36,920 with no breath for a while. And that's a very scary thought. 200 00:15:38,260 --> 00:15:41,680 End up making it out and there's a bigger wave behind it. 201 00:15:41,760 --> 00:15:43,550 Massive, it comes and picks me up. 202 00:15:43,640 --> 00:15:47,480 I like get the board on, get on the sled 203 00:15:47,560 --> 00:15:49,350 and he was flying out of there. 204 00:15:51,690 --> 00:15:56,030 That was CJ, he gets out and I put him on the sled. 205 00:15:56,110 --> 00:15:59,570 We got down there really quick and the board came out from under him. 206 00:15:59,650 --> 00:16:03,740 So his board is on the beach and I'm not sure how we can get it. 207 00:16:03,820 --> 00:16:07,620 I was pretty happy that my board washed in. 208 00:16:07,700 --> 00:16:10,540 And I kinda couldn't surf any other waves because 209 00:16:10,710 --> 00:16:13,420 it was pretty terrifying. I felt pretty unstable 210 00:16:13,580 --> 00:16:17,250 going that fast with those bumps, flying down that wave. 211 00:16:17,340 --> 00:16:21,470 I was like oh my god, am I like ready for this right now? 212 00:16:21,550 --> 00:16:25,350 And I didn't really feel like I was too ready for it. 213 00:16:25,430 --> 00:16:28,600 So it freaked me out actually, quite a bit. 214 00:16:31,140 --> 00:16:33,350 That was a big ass wave. 215 00:16:34,810 --> 00:16:36,150 - Which one? - Yours. 216 00:16:36,230 --> 00:16:38,900 It was, huh? It felt big. Couldn't tell. 217 00:16:39,860 --> 00:16:43,070 - How'd it feel? - Weird, it was bumpy. 218 00:16:44,200 --> 00:16:48,330 I'm questioning and doubting. Like what am I doing? 219 00:16:48,410 --> 00:16:50,790 What am I doing? Is it really that fun 220 00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:54,000 trying to be out there and surf these 50-60 221 00:16:54,080 --> 00:16:57,380 we're talking about 100-foot wave, is it that fun? 222 00:16:59,300 --> 00:17:00,340 Not really. 223 00:17:00,510 --> 00:17:05,090 So I'm thinking, what am I doing? I'm out there risking my life 224 00:17:05,970 --> 00:17:07,720 for what? 225 00:17:07,810 --> 00:17:11,060 What if 200-foot waves existed on the planet? Good ones. 226 00:17:11,140 --> 00:17:13,230 Are we gonna be out there trying to surf 'em? 227 00:17:13,310 --> 00:17:15,940 Where do we draw the line? 228 00:17:17,230 --> 00:17:19,280 How was the feeling about the teams? 229 00:17:19,360 --> 00:17:22,400 There was a lot of people with jet skis and... 230 00:17:22,490 --> 00:17:24,740 I kind of liked it, it was nice. 231 00:17:26,370 --> 00:17:28,660 The waves are being surfed all over the place. 232 00:17:28,740 --> 00:17:31,870 Usually there's a lot of waves not being ridden, 233 00:17:31,950 --> 00:17:34,160 and it's fun to watch everybody ride. 234 00:17:35,080 --> 00:17:37,460 People on the cliff are happy. 235 00:17:37,630 --> 00:17:41,300 I've surfed enough waves out here, it's fun to watch people now. 236 00:17:42,340 --> 00:17:44,840 Earlier that day 237 00:17:51,470 --> 00:17:54,480 Let's take a trip to Portugal with some impressive images. 238 00:17:54,560 --> 00:17:58,060 It's a French surfer that rode one of the world's biggest waves. 239 00:17:58,230 --> 00:17:59,980 Yes, her name is Justine Dupont. She is 28 years old. 240 00:18:00,150 --> 00:18:03,360 And she surfed the biggest wave of her life. 241 00:18:15,500 --> 00:18:18,630 Yesterday something extraordinary happened. 242 00:18:18,710 --> 00:18:21,380 There was a very big swell. And I surfed a crazy wave. 243 00:18:21,550 --> 00:18:24,630 Frankly, by far, the most beautiful wave of my life. 244 00:18:25,590 --> 00:18:29,390 The perspective to be able to see the wave and the way the shadow was. 245 00:18:29,550 --> 00:18:32,180 You know, it's amazing. 246 00:18:35,730 --> 00:18:39,940 Yeah she scored this wave with a bunch of dudes out there, 247 00:18:40,110 --> 00:18:44,490 and somehow she got that wave at the bottom of the day and just charged it. 248 00:18:46,950 --> 00:18:50,120 It was one of the best shots I ever filmed. 249 00:18:51,660 --> 00:18:55,080 Laurent was in the water shooting the wave. 250 00:18:55,160 --> 00:18:58,170 And I was driving the jetski. 251 00:18:58,330 --> 00:19:01,210 We really got away from the beginning until the end. 252 00:19:02,040 --> 00:19:04,630 And everything you want it's on the footage. 253 00:19:09,640 --> 00:19:11,640 That was the best one today. 254 00:19:15,350 --> 00:19:19,850 It's an interesting world. Surfers and surf photographers. 255 00:19:20,560 --> 00:19:23,770 It's a very codependent relationship 256 00:19:23,940 --> 00:19:27,990 because really you can't have a surf photographer 257 00:19:28,070 --> 00:19:29,570 without a professional surfer 258 00:19:29,740 --> 00:19:34,240 and you can't be a surfer if you don't have a photographer. 259 00:19:34,410 --> 00:19:39,960 If you want to go out and surf for fun... Photographers aren't necessary. 260 00:19:40,120 --> 00:19:43,590 But if you want to surf for a living 261 00:19:43,670 --> 00:19:46,840 you've got to document most of the things you do. 262 00:19:49,840 --> 00:19:54,430 And in the world of cinematography and the ocean 263 00:19:54,510 --> 00:19:57,560 Mike Prickett has been at the forefront. 264 00:19:57,720 --> 00:19:59,060 My name is Mike Prickett 265 00:19:59,140 --> 00:20:02,190 and I'm a surf cinematographer from the North Shore of Hawaii. 266 00:20:03,940 --> 00:20:08,820 I've been doing this, jeez for almost 40 years. 267 00:20:08,990 --> 00:20:11,110 Since 1979 I think I started. 268 00:20:12,820 --> 00:20:17,950 Mike Prickett is one of the greatest surf cinematographers in history. 269 00:20:21,250 --> 00:20:23,630 Mike was always at the top of his game, 270 00:20:23,790 --> 00:20:27,840 he was always the guy you wanted working with you. 271 00:20:28,460 --> 00:20:32,380 He's a legend in the community swimming out in the biggest days of surf 272 00:20:32,550 --> 00:20:34,890 with these massive camera rigs on his shoulder. 273 00:20:35,050 --> 00:20:38,140 Basically almost any film that you've seen that's water work 274 00:20:38,220 --> 00:20:40,310 to just any surf movie 275 00:20:40,390 --> 00:20:45,060 Mike has shot. But Mike has gone through some tough times. 276 00:20:45,230 --> 00:20:48,440 He had a horrific accident in Tahiti. 277 00:20:48,610 --> 00:20:51,320 I went to Tahiti to do a commercial, 278 00:20:51,400 --> 00:20:56,200 and I saw a diver that was in trouble, that got stuck in a down current. 279 00:20:57,580 --> 00:21:01,500 So I went down to rescue him. When I got to him he was 220 feet under water. 280 00:21:01,580 --> 00:21:02,750 He had no air. 281 00:21:02,910 --> 00:21:05,500 He was in a complete panic, his eyes were this big. 282 00:21:05,670 --> 00:21:08,500 I was trying to get him to calm down because he was hyperventilating. 283 00:21:08,590 --> 00:21:10,800 But as I was bringing him to the surface 284 00:21:10,960 --> 00:21:14,680 I could feel the air starting get lower we were going to run out of air soon. 285 00:21:14,760 --> 00:21:17,930 We had no choice but to make an emergency ascent. 286 00:21:18,100 --> 00:21:21,140 We broke through the surface and we didn't even make a safety stop. 287 00:21:21,310 --> 00:21:23,890 Within a matter of moments he was already passed out. 288 00:21:23,980 --> 00:21:26,610 Due to getting the bends. 289 00:21:27,270 --> 00:21:32,240 The bends are bubbles in your blood. So the bubbles went into my spinal cord. 290 00:21:33,450 --> 00:21:36,870 On March 14th I was injured in a dive accident in Tahiti 291 00:21:36,950 --> 00:21:39,950 and paralyzed from the waist down. And 292 00:21:40,120 --> 00:21:45,120 the doctor says I have about six months before I plateau off of my recovery. 293 00:21:46,750 --> 00:21:51,710 Yeah I got six months to see if I can ever walk again. We'll see. 294 00:22:01,520 --> 00:22:04,020 It's been quite a while since that happened. 295 00:22:04,100 --> 00:22:08,060 I was in a wheelchair. I don't really bring my wheel chair with me. 296 00:22:08,230 --> 00:22:12,570 I just force myself to hobble around and I torture all my friends 297 00:22:12,730 --> 00:22:15,900 to go slow walking with me, because I take forever. 298 00:22:16,570 --> 00:22:21,790 Yeah they don't care. They're like ah, come on pick it up, crippled guy. 299 00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:29,000 Slowly, through the physical therapy he's able to move his legs. 300 00:22:29,080 --> 00:22:32,550 He still has no feeling on them but he's walking around with crutches now, 301 00:22:32,630 --> 00:22:36,720 I took a slow road to recovery but yeah that's kind of what happened. 302 00:22:38,970 --> 00:22:40,140 Let's go and get in position. 303 00:22:40,300 --> 00:22:44,470 We shoot a regular surfing shot in the shoulder of the waves right now. 304 00:22:44,560 --> 00:22:46,270 And then after that we'll try and track one. 305 00:22:46,350 --> 00:22:48,850 I'm going to tow Cotty on a couple of waves. 306 00:22:48,940 --> 00:22:53,360 We're going to move over to second, third peak away from the surfers. 307 00:22:54,230 --> 00:22:55,320 Here we go. Rolling. 308 00:22:58,240 --> 00:23:01,070 Garrett is pulling Cotty down a wave. 309 00:23:02,200 --> 00:23:05,200 And we're looking at Cotty and he's going right. 310 00:23:05,290 --> 00:23:07,580 Yup. We got it. 311 00:23:14,460 --> 00:23:19,380 I've been here a long time doing footage on the jetski with a go-pro. 312 00:23:20,220 --> 00:23:23,100 This is the future. 313 00:23:30,520 --> 00:23:32,610 Everything looks good. 314 00:23:32,690 --> 00:23:35,650 To see Mike come back and continue to do amazing 315 00:23:35,820 --> 00:23:38,450 both technically and artistically... 316 00:23:38,530 --> 00:23:41,110 Is just an absolute inspiration. 317 00:23:47,500 --> 00:23:52,630 I was elected Mayor on the 29th of September 2013. 318 00:23:53,840 --> 00:23:55,750 When I came to the citadel, 319 00:23:55,840 --> 00:23:59,880 the Nazar� Project had already fulfilled some of its goals 320 00:23:59,970 --> 00:24:05,850 and we needed to open up Nazar� to other surfers, to spread the word. 321 00:24:05,930 --> 00:24:08,390 And within that vision for me, 322 00:24:08,560 --> 00:24:12,060 it was mandatory to have a world surf league event every year. 323 00:24:15,480 --> 00:24:18,230 October 30, 2019 Nazar� Tow Challenge Announcement 324 00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:23,240 Through the work of Garrett and through the work also of the ladies, 325 00:24:23,320 --> 00:24:25,780 we celebrate this event here. 326 00:24:25,870 --> 00:24:31,960 We've been showcasing the world that the big waves... 327 00:24:32,750 --> 00:24:36,840 making sure that my dream and the dream of a lot of people 328 00:24:36,920 --> 00:24:40,300 in Nazar� is maintained through the years. 329 00:24:42,930 --> 00:24:44,300 It's good to see. Good to see. 330 00:24:47,060 --> 00:24:49,850 I'm really excited about the Nazar� tow challenge. 331 00:24:49,930 --> 00:24:53,940 Yes I'm really excited about the Nazar� tow challenge. It's... 332 00:24:54,020 --> 00:24:57,900 again it's another opportunity to compete on the world stage. 333 00:24:58,070 --> 00:24:59,860 Looking for the perfect conditions. 334 00:24:59,940 --> 00:25:04,320 I want to be actually surfing and not surviving. 335 00:25:08,080 --> 00:25:09,740 Big wave surfing events 336 00:25:09,910 --> 00:25:15,580 generally have a window that will run a certain number of months. 337 00:25:16,210 --> 00:25:19,340 The Nazar� tow Surfing Challenge started November 1 338 00:25:19,420 --> 00:25:22,760 and ran through the end of February. So we have four months to wait for 339 00:25:22,840 --> 00:25:26,550 just the right combination of all the elements to come together. 340 00:25:27,140 --> 00:25:30,720 Calling the day for a big wave event 341 00:25:30,890 --> 00:25:35,980 is probably one of the most complex things you can 342 00:25:36,150 --> 00:25:38,820 possibly do in the sporting world by a mile. 343 00:25:38,980 --> 00:25:42,820 The Super Bowl... I can tell you five years from now 344 00:25:42,900 --> 00:25:45,660 exactly what day and hour the kickoff is. 345 00:25:45,740 --> 00:25:48,070 In big waves, it's just not like that. 346 00:25:48,160 --> 00:25:51,200 There's gonna be a day at some point in the next four months 347 00:25:51,290 --> 00:25:53,660 and we'll tell you three days in advance. 348 00:25:53,750 --> 00:25:57,500 You are constantly monitoring the local weather, the tide, 349 00:25:57,670 --> 00:26:00,800 the exact direction of the swell. 350 00:26:00,960 --> 00:26:02,760 You never know totally for sure. 351 00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:06,720 But you have that pressure of saying, look, we're going to run an event. 352 00:26:06,890 --> 00:26:09,890 We're going to have a hundred people from around the world fly in. 353 00:26:10,050 --> 00:26:15,350 We're gonna spend between the events and the prize money and the broadcast 354 00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:17,730 probably not far off a million dollars. 355 00:26:17,900 --> 00:26:22,980 So when that perfect storm does come, you don't want to blow it. 356 00:26:40,130 --> 00:26:41,710 February 2020 357 00:26:41,790 --> 00:26:44,630 Three months after contest announcement. 358 00:26:47,630 --> 00:26:50,390 On February 8th the WSL announced that 359 00:26:50,470 --> 00:26:55,060 he Nazar� Tow Challenge would be held on February 11th. 360 00:26:55,140 --> 00:27:00,150 The clock was ticking away with an amazing crew of decision makers 361 00:27:00,230 --> 00:27:04,400 of the world surf league and especially the local crew there at Nazar� 362 00:27:04,480 --> 00:27:09,360 were able to just take what we knew about every other storm that's coming 363 00:27:09,450 --> 00:27:11,030 in the last six or seven years 364 00:27:11,120 --> 00:27:16,620 and study it and look for the one that had all the right components. 365 00:27:18,410 --> 00:27:23,170 February 11th was going to be easily the best day of the year. 366 00:27:24,960 --> 00:27:28,630 They reached out and I said yes, it looks amazing. 367 00:27:28,720 --> 00:27:31,010 There's definitely a swell. 368 00:27:31,090 --> 00:27:36,180 It seems to be big enough. And I believe the waves will be there. 369 00:27:37,890 --> 00:27:42,400 It's pretty cool, exactly what we had envisioned and focused on 370 00:27:42,480 --> 00:27:46,320 and plan from this place from the day we showed up 371 00:27:46,400 --> 00:27:48,950 is now actually happening. 372 00:27:49,110 --> 00:27:51,360 And Cotty's got a spo. 373 00:27:53,870 --> 00:27:56,830 I got a spot but I'm... I don't... 374 00:27:56,910 --> 00:28:00,290 I'm not gonna... but I am keeping a wildcard spot 375 00:28:00,370 --> 00:28:05,710 so that if I'm better and it is the 100-foot day then I'll surf it. 376 00:28:05,880 --> 00:28:07,170 What's up? 377 00:28:07,260 --> 00:28:11,430 How are you? I'm getting excited for you, for this year. 378 00:28:11,510 --> 00:28:15,010 - I'll definitely be ready to drive. - Yeah? 379 00:28:15,100 --> 00:28:20,770 I'm 100% ready to be on the cliff and orchestrating, that would be fun too. 380 00:28:20,850 --> 00:28:24,900 - I think that could be more valuable. - More valuable, huh? 381 00:28:24,980 --> 00:28:27,940 But you'll be freaking out... 382 00:28:28,780 --> 00:28:31,150 When I watched from the cliff I couldn't do it. 383 00:28:31,240 --> 00:28:34,700 - Couldn't do it. - It freaks me out. 384 00:28:34,780 --> 00:28:36,530 Because you want to be in the water. 385 00:28:36,620 --> 00:28:40,040 Well you want to be in the water, but also from that different angle 386 00:28:40,120 --> 00:28:43,830 it looks so much more gnarlier than from the beach at times. 387 00:28:43,920 --> 00:28:45,920 - Alright, love you. - Right. I'll speak to you in a bit. 388 00:28:46,000 --> 00:28:47,630 Love you buddy. 389 00:28:56,600 --> 00:29:00,140 When Garrett was starting to talk about the tow contest and everything, 390 00:29:01,430 --> 00:29:05,520 I felt like I had no business being in it at all. 391 00:29:05,690 --> 00:29:08,400 It just felt way out of my league honestly. 392 00:29:10,400 --> 00:29:16,490 All these surfers have had an extra six years experiencing surfing Nazar�, 393 00:29:16,660 --> 00:29:19,120 when I haven't even been around. 394 00:29:19,290 --> 00:29:24,170 Yeah, it was hardly even on my radar to be a competitor in that. 395 00:29:26,460 --> 00:29:30,710 So I didn't come for the second half of the season just because 396 00:29:30,880 --> 00:29:32,840 I didn't feel ready. 397 00:29:32,920 --> 00:29:38,800 And also, I had another opportunity, a thing that arose that was 398 00:29:38,970 --> 00:29:43,230 more what I was supposed to be doing, which was going deeper into healing. 399 00:29:44,810 --> 00:29:47,940 I flew down to Peru for two weeks. 400 00:29:49,770 --> 00:29:54,900 This tribe has created this little village center there 401 00:29:54,990 --> 00:29:59,620 for people to come and experience the medicine of the jungle. 402 00:29:59,700 --> 00:30:01,620 The diet is two meals a day 403 00:30:02,910 --> 00:30:06,790 and then at nighttime, dinner is drinking Ayahuasca. 404 00:30:07,960 --> 00:30:09,880 So I went there looking for some healing, 405 00:30:09,960 --> 00:30:13,510 looking for some answers and clarity on life. 406 00:30:15,800 --> 00:30:21,890 And I've gotten so much growth and learning from that experience. 407 00:30:24,140 --> 00:30:27,270 As I'm getting clearer on 408 00:30:27,730 --> 00:30:30,730 what all this means and what's important to myself, 409 00:30:31,650 --> 00:30:36,400 I'm finding more respect and a different kind of drive 410 00:30:36,490 --> 00:30:41,030 for pushing these limits and surfing this giant wave. 411 00:30:43,080 --> 00:30:47,040 I feel better about the quest now 412 00:30:47,120 --> 00:30:49,210 for this hundred-foot wave 413 00:30:49,290 --> 00:30:52,750 and I don't feel rushed at all about it. 414 00:30:55,090 --> 00:30:57,380 It's gonna come when it comes. 415 00:31:03,390 --> 00:31:08,310 With the contest on and stuff it's not been the most straightforward of years. 416 00:31:08,980 --> 00:31:13,400 I've been surfing with Garrett for the last 8, 9 years 417 00:31:13,480 --> 00:31:16,150 and obviously Garrett's been injured. 418 00:31:16,320 --> 00:31:20,490 So I've been partnered with Tom Butler from the UK. 419 00:31:21,410 --> 00:31:25,160 - You wearing gloves? - No, I'll probably regret that. 420 00:31:25,240 --> 00:31:27,290 - Regret that? - Yeah. 421 00:31:28,040 --> 00:31:29,790 I've been putting in the time with Tom 422 00:31:29,960 --> 00:31:33,380 we have to then build our connection together. We've got to compete. 423 00:31:36,550 --> 00:31:41,720 I'm fortunate to have Tom because he was one of the early guys at Nazar�. 424 00:31:51,150 --> 00:31:55,520 The WSL tow challenge is being watched all around the world. 425 00:31:55,610 --> 00:31:59,950 News crews are coming from all around the world and that's pressure. 426 00:32:02,870 --> 00:32:06,540 But it didn't take too long and we were getting quite comfortable. 427 00:32:06,620 --> 00:32:08,160 We believed in ourselves. 428 00:32:09,750 --> 00:32:15,710 Cotty's excited, hungry, wants it, he's been training for it all year. 429 00:32:16,340 --> 00:32:19,260 He's got a good partner and they're ready. 430 00:32:21,680 --> 00:32:25,680 But they'll also have some serious competition. 431 00:32:25,850 --> 00:32:27,350 Grab the keys. 432 00:32:30,390 --> 00:32:33,020 How's it going? Good to see you. 433 00:32:34,980 --> 00:32:36,650 Can I feel your board? 434 00:32:39,240 --> 00:32:42,820 - Do you like them that weight? - Oh it's just for because it's small. 435 00:32:42,910 --> 00:32:45,410 I have my heavy ones for tomorrow and the next day. 436 00:32:45,490 --> 00:32:48,540 - How heavy? - Ten kilos. Yeah. 437 00:32:48,700 --> 00:32:51,960 Is this one you were doing on the flip side? Sick. 438 00:32:52,460 --> 00:32:54,290 That's the guy to watch, Kai Lenny. 439 00:32:54,380 --> 00:32:58,340 He does every discipline in the water, he's the best at everything. 440 00:32:59,590 --> 00:33:02,800 He does 360s and lands it, and it's amazing. 441 00:33:02,970 --> 00:33:07,300 So I think he's the best guy to watch. He's an up comer. 442 00:33:07,470 --> 00:33:12,100 Now that Garrett's discovered this wave, Kai's going to rip it apart. 443 00:33:14,520 --> 00:33:17,820 If you need anything while you're here please let me know. 444 00:33:17,900 --> 00:33:23,110 - Thanks, G Mac. Maybe some tips. - I'll get tips from you. 445 00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:32,660 Big wave surfing definitely has its old guard and its new guard 446 00:33:32,750 --> 00:33:35,620 and Garrett's the ultimate example of the old guard. 447 00:33:35,710 --> 00:33:39,590 The new guard is perfectly represented by Kai Lenny. 448 00:33:39,670 --> 00:33:42,840 He's like a once in a generation freak. 449 00:33:44,130 --> 00:33:48,600 He's just progressing more rapidly than any surfer in history. 450 00:33:50,180 --> 00:33:53,640 Big wave surfing probably will never be the same after Kai Lenny. 451 00:33:53,810 --> 00:33:58,270 I mean the things that he's doing. Garrett isn't gonna be doing that. 452 00:33:58,360 --> 00:34:01,650 I don't see CJ doing that, I don't see Cotty doing that. 453 00:34:04,070 --> 00:34:06,990 Big wave surfing ebbs and flows with popularity. 454 00:34:07,700 --> 00:34:13,080 Someone like Garrett has gone through the highs and the lows of the sport. 455 00:34:13,160 --> 00:34:16,210 I think as far as progression goes within the sport, 456 00:34:16,290 --> 00:34:19,960 it's gonna keep on going places no one ever thought was possible. 457 00:34:20,790 --> 00:34:25,090 My towing partner for the Nazar� challenge is Lucas Chumbo. 458 00:34:25,170 --> 00:34:27,840 When Lucas and I decided to team up, 459 00:34:27,930 --> 00:34:31,640 he in my eyes was the most progressive big wave surfer. 460 00:34:31,720 --> 00:34:35,810 He's really pushing the level at Nazar� with giant barrels and giant airs 461 00:34:35,890 --> 00:34:37,690 and big maneuvers. 462 00:34:37,770 --> 00:34:41,360 And I wanted to be partnered with somebody that 463 00:34:41,440 --> 00:34:43,650 I had a huge amount of respect for, 464 00:34:43,820 --> 00:34:46,820 and who I thought was actually better than me. 465 00:34:48,410 --> 00:34:53,240 - Mr. McNamara! - How you doing? Good to see you. 466 00:34:53,330 --> 00:34:57,080 Lucas is somebody to focus on. 467 00:34:57,250 --> 00:34:59,120 This is the blow. 468 00:34:59,210 --> 00:35:01,380 When I got here in Nazar� 469 00:35:01,540 --> 00:35:05,300 I feel so much at home, 470 00:35:05,380 --> 00:35:08,680 or I feel so comfortable here. 471 00:35:09,720 --> 00:35:13,390 At my home I'm doing what I love. 472 00:35:14,060 --> 00:35:18,730 And for sure I'm in the best place to do what I love. 473 00:35:23,270 --> 00:35:26,360 What's up guys? Did you get a couple? 474 00:35:26,440 --> 00:35:31,320 - We didn't see you in yesterday. - Yeah, a day out of the wet suit. 475 00:35:31,410 --> 00:35:33,120 You know what time I finished? 476 00:35:33,200 --> 00:35:37,200 2:00 AM to clean the ski. 477 00:35:37,790 --> 00:35:42,330 I'm done today. I need to rest. 478 00:35:44,090 --> 00:35:47,760 I loved it actually when I came first time to Nazar�, 479 00:35:47,920 --> 00:35:49,720 I didn't have any sponsor. 480 00:35:49,800 --> 00:35:55,510 Then two years after I got this sponsor from Red Bull 481 00:35:55,600 --> 00:36:01,600 and this is... was a dream for me and now I have my locker. 482 00:36:07,150 --> 00:36:12,030 I want to thank you for coming to the inaugural Nazar� Tow Surfing Challenge. 483 00:36:12,200 --> 00:36:16,240 This is an event that for a lot of us has been a lifetime in preparation for. 484 00:36:16,410 --> 00:36:19,830 A real opportunity to showcase the state of the art big wave surfing. 485 00:36:26,420 --> 00:36:29,590 When we get up to make the record, 486 00:36:29,760 --> 00:36:32,220 nobody go to the light house on that day. 487 00:36:32,300 --> 00:36:34,850 Imagine the difference between that day and now. 488 00:36:35,720 --> 00:36:39,350 I imagine this is the first time you've come back to Nazar� 489 00:36:39,430 --> 00:36:41,100 since you had the accident? 490 00:36:41,180 --> 00:36:43,940 Oh no, no. That was like years ago now. 491 00:36:44,100 --> 00:36:48,320 Do people think you're a bit like mad that you're coming back after that? 492 00:36:48,400 --> 00:36:54,990 Nah because if it was that horrendous then I wouldn't want to do it again. 493 00:36:55,160 --> 00:36:58,950 And I never thought I was gonna drown or die, so it's just an injury. 494 00:36:59,120 --> 00:37:02,790 - Cheers man. - Thank you, you're very kind. 495 00:37:03,830 --> 00:37:06,670 Being constantly reminded about the wipeout 496 00:37:07,710 --> 00:37:09,800 we can't take too seriously. 497 00:37:10,210 --> 00:37:14,010 It's just part of it, getting the exposure as well. 498 00:37:15,260 --> 00:37:19,100 I could have made that wave and could've been the best of my life. 499 00:37:19,850 --> 00:37:22,770 But probably no one would have ever seen it. 500 00:37:22,930 --> 00:37:27,900 It's like a double-edged sword of what people want to see. 501 00:37:29,020 --> 00:37:32,400 I've been doing the big wave tour for 20 years now 502 00:37:32,570 --> 00:37:35,070 and the everyone wants to win ride of the year. 503 00:37:35,240 --> 00:37:40,080 The award you don't want to win is the wipeout of the year. 504 00:37:40,160 --> 00:37:44,920 One of the hall of fame moments was Andrew Cotton at Nazar� 505 00:37:45,080 --> 00:37:50,380 getting a little trophy that affirms yours was the best wipeout of the year 506 00:37:50,460 --> 00:37:52,590 maybe took a little bit of the sting out of it. 507 00:37:52,760 --> 00:37:57,010 Been trying to win an XXL Award for my whole career 508 00:37:57,180 --> 00:38:00,810 and then I win one for a bloody wipeout. 509 00:38:00,890 --> 00:38:02,350 The irony is that 510 00:38:02,520 --> 00:38:06,060 this is so typical. 511 00:38:07,480 --> 00:38:11,610 I don't think there's any question that people love a good wipeout. 512 00:38:17,030 --> 00:38:18,450 Just from pure statistics, 513 00:38:18,530 --> 00:38:23,370 I just know how many views the wipeouts get versus the biggest paddle wave. 514 00:38:23,450 --> 00:38:25,120 It's just not even close. 515 00:38:27,040 --> 00:38:31,550 As long as they come out of it okay, it's just an epic fail. 516 00:38:32,460 --> 00:38:38,010 The five best wipeouts will be enjoyed more than the one skillful ride 517 00:38:38,090 --> 00:38:41,260 because most people looking at it don't know the difference. 518 00:38:50,810 --> 00:38:52,900 The waves are supposed to be good tomorrow too, right? 519 00:38:53,070 --> 00:38:56,400 - Yeah. - Are you going to surf tomorrow? 520 00:38:57,490 --> 00:39:00,370 My foot's not really ready for this kind of stuff. 521 00:39:01,450 --> 00:39:05,950 It's not worth it to go out there and hurt my foot and big old swell comes. 522 00:39:06,040 --> 00:39:07,960 That's true. 523 00:39:09,330 --> 00:39:13,170 - I miss you so much right now. - I miss you. 524 00:39:13,800 --> 00:39:16,670 These are the times I just want to get on a plane. 525 00:39:18,430 --> 00:39:21,550 Oahu, Hawaii 526 00:39:21,640 --> 00:39:24,470 I stay home sometimes but it's all a blur. 527 00:39:24,560 --> 00:39:25,850 Nicole McNamara, Garrett's wife/Manager 528 00:39:25,930 --> 00:39:27,480 Motherhood is a blur. 529 00:39:27,640 --> 00:39:29,640 I caught one. 530 00:39:29,810 --> 00:39:32,060 Garrett had a lot of work to do, 531 00:39:32,150 --> 00:39:36,780 so sometimes it's easier for Garrett to go and just get the work done, 532 00:39:36,860 --> 00:39:40,360 then for the whole family to go and us... 533 00:39:40,450 --> 00:39:42,950 Go do bubbles! 534 00:39:45,580 --> 00:39:48,120 Without my family around there's a lot of time to think 535 00:39:49,000 --> 00:39:53,790 and so I'm thinking there and ah I could do the contest. 536 00:39:58,210 --> 00:40:00,510 One wave is all I need, one big wave. 537 00:40:02,470 --> 00:40:07,140 A hundred footer comes, I'll be out there and it will probably come to me. 538 00:40:07,220 --> 00:40:10,560 So I was thinking, yeah, I think I want to surf it. 539 00:40:11,520 --> 00:40:14,150 Three days ago I went out there 540 00:40:14,980 --> 00:40:19,110 and after I drove around and felt my foot and felt the chops 541 00:40:19,940 --> 00:40:22,860 and checked into my body and 542 00:40:23,570 --> 00:40:28,330 realized that if I fell I probably wouldn't come home. 543 00:40:30,710 --> 00:40:33,420 And I was actually getting scared. 544 00:40:34,750 --> 00:40:37,050 Letting fear enter my mind. 545 00:40:38,510 --> 00:40:43,010 I have no business out here, and I want nothing to do with this. 546 00:40:48,470 --> 00:40:53,020 Garrett's mentioned the fear. I don't think it's so much fear of the waves 547 00:40:53,190 --> 00:40:55,980 but fear of the pain that he felt with his shoulder. 548 00:40:56,060 --> 00:40:59,530 I don't think he's afraid of dying, if you die you're not in pain. 549 00:40:59,690 --> 00:41:04,240 His is like just feeling that pain again and depression. 550 00:41:09,040 --> 00:41:13,670 I do feel that it would have been amazing to surf. 551 00:41:14,500 --> 00:41:17,710 But I didn't want to push it. 552 00:41:17,880 --> 00:41:20,090 I wasn't ready. 553 00:41:23,010 --> 00:41:27,470 Two Days Before Contest 554 00:41:27,550 --> 00:41:31,180 I've been on the walkie for a minute or two here and there. 555 00:41:31,270 --> 00:41:34,020 Never really was a spotter. 556 00:41:34,100 --> 00:41:37,440 I've always been interested in doing it 557 00:41:37,520 --> 00:41:41,990 because I want to see what the people are watching when they're spotting 558 00:41:42,070 --> 00:41:47,240 and how they're sharing with us what they see and where they want us to go. 559 00:41:49,080 --> 00:41:53,790 I think we'll have a good practice with Cotty. I think it will work out. 560 00:41:53,870 --> 00:41:57,250 It's gonna be interesting, something new for me. 561 00:42:00,130 --> 00:42:02,550 Cotty, you guys out there? 562 00:42:02,710 --> 00:42:07,050 Yeah just getting out just getting up to the lineup. How's it looking? 563 00:42:07,140 --> 00:42:11,510 Do you want to wait for the sets or just go for anything? 564 00:42:11,600 --> 00:42:14,680 I think at the moment we are happy to wait for some sets. 565 00:42:14,770 --> 00:42:17,100 It just feels different trying to 566 00:42:18,900 --> 00:42:20,770 see which way they should go for. 567 00:42:20,940 --> 00:42:22,570 This peak here? 568 00:42:25,030 --> 00:42:27,700 I can't see where you guys are. 569 00:42:27,860 --> 00:42:30,990 Second third peak, 570 00:42:32,950 --> 00:42:34,950 Shit wait, wait, wait. 571 00:42:37,500 --> 00:42:40,960 Definitely some waves on the outside. Hang tight right where you are. 572 00:42:41,130 --> 00:42:45,920 Second beat, second beat, run over there, go get it, go get it, go, go. 573 00:42:46,590 --> 00:42:49,340 He's gone, he's going, he's going. 574 00:42:56,230 --> 00:42:59,850 He made it, holy shit, amazing. 575 00:43:02,770 --> 00:43:04,530 Wow that was a heat winner. 576 00:43:06,110 --> 00:43:10,490 This is gonna be the greatest show in surfing. There's no doubt about it. 577 00:43:12,990 --> 00:43:17,330 Yeah boys, you guys are already here. That was too fast. 578 00:43:17,500 --> 00:43:20,080 I thought it was gonna eat you. Yeah. 579 00:43:20,170 --> 00:43:23,840 You cranked it so hard, the whitewater was coming, I was like oh, he's done. 580 00:43:23,920 --> 00:43:27,760 I was about to say, down, down. And then... 581 00:43:27,840 --> 00:43:31,930 To have Garrett in your corner, like, it's a dream isn't it? 582 00:43:32,010 --> 00:43:34,810 Well if someone said to me like, 10 years ago. 583 00:43:34,890 --> 00:43:38,430 Oh you know you're gonna be in the Duracell Nazar� Challenge 584 00:43:38,520 --> 00:43:40,980 and Garrett's going to be on the radio calling the shots. 585 00:43:41,060 --> 00:43:45,400 I never, ever in a million years I would think that it's possible. 586 00:43:45,570 --> 00:43:46,900 Garrett was just... 587 00:43:47,990 --> 00:43:53,240 someone you saw in magazines and movies. 588 00:43:55,990 --> 00:43:59,580 Not somebody who Facetimes you at 6:00 in the morning. 589 00:44:03,630 --> 00:44:05,800 - Hello. Hey! - Hey. 590 00:44:10,970 --> 00:44:12,340 Hi there! 591 00:44:12,430 --> 00:44:16,010 - Did it get smaller? - No, it's good sized. 592 00:44:16,100 --> 00:44:20,350 There's gonna be some good waves and it was really beautiful today. 593 00:44:20,430 --> 00:44:23,060 Guess what I got a taste of today? 594 00:44:23,150 --> 00:44:25,570 I have so much more 595 00:44:25,730 --> 00:44:31,900 understanding and I guess I should say respect for spotting. 596 00:44:34,780 --> 00:44:37,450 Because I spotted today on the cliff for practice. 597 00:44:38,950 --> 00:44:41,290 It's hard to tell which wave's gonna be the wave. 598 00:44:41,460 --> 00:44:42,580 Yeah it's really hard. 599 00:44:42,670 --> 00:44:47,960 As soon as they came I scored them the sickest wave right out the gate 600 00:44:48,050 --> 00:44:49,380 and it worked perfect. 601 00:44:49,460 --> 00:44:53,130 And then they got another good one and then it was tough. 602 00:44:59,560 --> 00:45:01,980 You guys gotta win this thing. 603 00:45:02,060 --> 00:45:04,480 Yeah I know. Well we're set, aren't we? 604 00:45:14,700 --> 00:45:17,870 Oh it's nice and warm in here, it's so cold. 605 00:45:17,950 --> 00:45:22,960 Thank you so much for bringing this. Sorry to put that on you. 606 00:45:24,000 --> 00:45:25,210 Good to see you. 607 00:45:25,370 --> 00:45:29,550 - So you guys have a meeting at Linos? - Yeah, yeah. 608 00:45:29,630 --> 00:45:32,550 - What kind of a meeting? - Safety and then... 609 00:45:32,720 --> 00:45:37,850 What is the safety plan? Did they have one ski delegated to each team? 610 00:45:38,600 --> 00:45:41,350 Some people weren't happy. There was only like 611 00:45:41,430 --> 00:45:46,270 2 or 3 really good safety guides out of the 5. 612 00:45:47,810 --> 00:45:49,940 That doesn't seem good at all. 613 00:45:50,110 --> 00:45:54,990 Those safety skis are gonna be on the beach so fast when they lose their ski. 614 00:45:55,070 --> 00:45:58,740 - And you're happy with that? - No, but what can you do really. 615 00:45:58,820 --> 00:46:03,750 I think it's gonna be as safe as it can be, you know? 616 00:46:07,170 --> 00:46:11,170 - Let me call Bill. - Alright, thanks very much. 617 00:46:12,800 --> 00:46:17,260 It's just things can go wrong so quick. You can have two skis down in a second. 618 00:46:17,340 --> 00:46:21,100 All of a sudden everyone's on two skis and there's still three skis surfing. 619 00:46:24,230 --> 00:46:26,190 - Garrett? - Bill. 620 00:46:26,350 --> 00:46:30,690 I was talking to Cotty about the safety, it sounded really, really 621 00:46:30,770 --> 00:46:33,610 scary to me what you guys got in place. 622 00:46:33,780 --> 00:46:35,440 We're about to have another meeting on it, 623 00:46:35,530 --> 00:46:39,780 it's been basically an outgrowth that we all talked about. 624 00:46:39,870 --> 00:46:44,370 It's the last meeting, if you want to come and chime in, it's coming up. 625 00:46:44,450 --> 00:46:47,500 If I was in the event I would want to... I would say more, 626 00:46:47,580 --> 00:46:52,380 but since I'm not, I don't really feel like it's my place to say anything. 627 00:46:52,550 --> 00:46:55,970 Either join in or wait and see whatever we come up with. 628 00:46:56,130 --> 00:46:58,430 - Alright, bye bye. - Bye, bye. 629 00:46:59,840 --> 00:47:01,550 Garrett is like a lot of us, 630 00:47:01,720 --> 00:47:04,390 he'll be a team player when it suits him, 631 00:47:04,470 --> 00:47:07,890 and he'll be an independent when it suits him. 632 00:47:08,060 --> 00:47:11,270 And he and I and a lot of other people have had times where 633 00:47:11,360 --> 00:47:13,940 we've clashed and it's gotten weird. 634 00:47:15,730 --> 00:47:19,450 His vision has not always matched everyone else's. 635 00:47:19,530 --> 00:47:23,620 We are heading to the safety meeting for the contest. 636 00:47:23,780 --> 00:47:28,580 This is gonna be super big, super gnarly, it's got to be super safe. 637 00:47:38,260 --> 00:47:41,640 Cameras were not allowed in the safety meeting. 638 00:47:41,720 --> 00:47:43,930 So I was concerned about the safety, 639 00:47:44,470 --> 00:47:49,850 and I show up at this meeting. And they're not having a shadow follow. 640 00:47:50,020 --> 00:47:54,060 It wasn't mandatory for each team to have a shadow. 641 00:47:54,730 --> 00:47:59,780 And I spoke very blunt about what I felt. 642 00:47:59,950 --> 00:48:04,580 Without your backup safety, it's very unsafe and good luck. 643 00:48:05,620 --> 00:48:07,580 Alemao Edilson Luis Da Assun�ao WSL Nazar� Challenge Safety Driver 644 00:48:07,660 --> 00:48:13,920 I thought that the safety measures of the WSL Nazar� Tow-in Challenge, 645 00:48:14,000 --> 00:48:17,880 I think that without a doubt, they were 646 00:48:18,800 --> 00:48:20,880 ...the best possible measures. 647 00:48:20,970 --> 00:48:24,720 They had a very solid team. 648 00:48:25,260 --> 00:48:27,350 Garrett didn't agree. 649 00:48:27,930 --> 00:48:34,900 For me it was hard to interpret Garrett's position in a negative way. 650 00:48:35,060 --> 00:48:38,070 Garrett has always been like that. He always worries. 651 00:48:38,150 --> 00:48:41,360 It's not the first time. It's not just because the WSL event. 652 00:48:47,080 --> 00:48:50,540 Because he knows the importance and the difficulty of being 653 00:48:50,620 --> 00:48:53,290 a safety driver in Nazar�. 654 00:48:54,630 --> 00:48:58,210 It was important that you have veterans like Garrett McNamara 655 00:48:58,300 --> 00:49:02,470 who are pushing the safety side, especially in competition. 656 00:49:02,550 --> 00:49:07,600 Because it's easy to get clouded in the fog of competitive surfing 657 00:49:08,180 --> 00:49:12,680 and you forget about the basics and the stuff that's most important. 658 00:49:12,770 --> 00:49:17,770 A lot of preparation went into having a safety plan in place for that event. 659 00:49:17,860 --> 00:49:21,740 A lot of really qualified people are working on it. 660 00:49:21,900 --> 00:49:26,280 We had 15 jet skis dedicated to rescue. 661 00:49:26,870 --> 00:49:30,200 If everyone knows what they're doing and sticks to their assignment, 662 00:49:30,290 --> 00:49:34,080 it provides a pretty good safety net for everyone. 663 00:49:35,750 --> 00:49:40,550 Hopefully they'll understand what I was sharing with them, 664 00:49:41,760 --> 00:49:45,840 I really hope the best for everybody. I hope everybody comes home. 665 00:49:57,150 --> 00:50:00,150 February 11, 2020 Morning of Nazar� Tow Challenge 666 00:50:00,980 --> 00:50:03,530 For the Nazar� tow surfing challenge 667 00:50:03,690 --> 00:50:07,200 every important big wave surfer from Brazil, 668 00:50:07,360 --> 00:50:10,870 from Hawaii, California, whatever. 669 00:50:11,030 --> 00:50:12,950 Everyone's there. 670 00:50:15,160 --> 00:50:20,000 It's an honor to surf the tow challenge representing Brazil. 671 00:50:20,090 --> 00:50:21,130 To me, 672 00:50:21,210 --> 00:50:26,720 it's priceless to be able to put on a jersey with your country's colors. 673 00:50:27,550 --> 00:50:31,260 To see this place, have a professional towing contest. 674 00:50:31,350 --> 00:50:35,350 This is something maybe I dreamed about, I'm not even sure. 675 00:50:35,430 --> 00:50:40,560 But I'm very proud that we have myself and Justine at the level that I think 676 00:50:40,650 --> 00:50:43,400 we'll do something and we'll catch waves 677 00:50:43,480 --> 00:50:47,400 and we'll represent and we'll put on a show hopefully. 678 00:50:47,570 --> 00:50:49,740 It's quite a unique spectacle. 679 00:50:50,910 --> 00:50:54,910 And whenever we run an event 680 00:50:55,080 --> 00:50:57,160 the world has its eyes on us. 681 00:50:58,710 --> 00:51:03,500 It's amazing in two years how excited people have gotten over this wave. 682 00:51:03,590 --> 00:51:06,760 You're gonna see thousands of people covering the cliffs. 683 00:51:06,920 --> 00:51:09,760 It's just like you're going to the Super Bowl of surfing. 684 00:51:10,890 --> 00:51:14,470 Blessed with great traditions and a big swell in the water. 685 00:51:14,560 --> 00:51:17,230 Garrett is in the studio alongside me. 686 00:51:17,310 --> 00:51:19,980 Garrett McNamara, how are you feeling about today? 687 00:51:20,060 --> 00:51:24,270 I'm excited. I can't wait to see these guys out there giving it their best 688 00:51:24,360 --> 00:51:25,980 and it's gonna be a great show. 689 00:51:26,070 --> 00:51:28,570 We are expecting some epic performances. 690 00:51:28,650 --> 00:51:31,740 Forty or fifty of the world's best big wave surfers all pushing the limits. 691 00:51:31,910 --> 00:51:34,240 This is gonna be awesome. 692 00:51:34,410 --> 00:51:38,660 There are the teams. You look down towards Chianca and Lenny, 693 00:51:38,830 --> 00:51:42,830 a lot of buzz, a lot of hype, those guys have taken tow to the next level. 694 00:51:43,000 --> 00:51:45,130 Those are gonna be the two standouts. 695 00:51:46,090 --> 00:51:49,720 These guys are gonna bring a whole different look to riding big waves. 696 00:51:49,800 --> 00:51:51,970 Yeah they're definitely a force to be reckoned with. 697 00:51:52,140 --> 00:51:55,350 Every time I do a competition, I want to get the best waves of my life. 698 00:51:55,510 --> 00:51:57,600 And if those are the best waves of my life, 699 00:51:57,680 --> 00:52:00,350 than they should win the competition. 700 00:52:01,020 --> 00:52:04,440 Not many people have spent more time out here than Andrew Cotton. 701 00:52:04,520 --> 00:52:06,900 How do you fancy their chances? 702 00:52:06,980 --> 00:52:10,360 Everybody loves Cotty. He's hungry and he wants it. 703 00:52:10,450 --> 00:52:13,700 I'm really excited to see them get action in their heat. 704 00:52:14,990 --> 00:52:19,080 This is it. If I'm gonna do it, I'm gonna be in it to win it. 705 00:52:19,160 --> 00:52:21,710 I was just super hyped up from the event. 706 00:52:21,870 --> 00:52:25,790 The big wave surf competition. It could be life-changing. 707 00:52:26,630 --> 00:52:29,550 Everyone wants the same thing, 708 00:52:29,710 --> 00:52:33,890 that wave that's gonna make a trip and change your life. 62693

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