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You can look back on the history
and you can interview a lot of people
2
00:00:49,700 --> 00:00:52,870
and they're gonna tell you about
this notion of the 100-foot wave.
3
00:00:53,040 --> 00:00:54,710
- The 100-foot wave.
- 100-foot wave.
4
00:00:54,880 --> 00:00:56,460
- 100-foot wave.
- The 100-foot wave.
5
00:00:56,630 --> 00:00:57,710
The 100-foot wave.
6
00:00:59,000 --> 00:01:02,220
If people wonder where that concept
came from,
7
00:01:02,380 --> 00:01:05,260
I'm gonna tell you right now,
it was me.
8
00:01:05,970 --> 00:01:11,680
I sproposed that idea as one of my many
projects over the years. It was laughed
9
00:01:11,850 --> 00:01:16,730
at first but then people went, there
are 100-foot waves. Maybe bigger.
10
00:01:16,810 --> 00:01:20,690
When Garrett rode the giant wave
in 2011,
11
00:01:20,780 --> 00:01:25,070
it was clearly the World Record biggest
wave that had been ridden.
12
00:01:25,240 --> 00:01:26,660
It just came out of left field.
13
00:01:28,450 --> 00:01:33,870
It was such a shocker for everyone
throughout the surfing world
14
00:01:34,040 --> 00:01:37,540
big waves they come in Hawaii, on the
West Coast, not in the Atlantic.
15
00:01:38,750 --> 00:01:43,300
But lo and behold the biggest waves
in the world are there in Nazar�.
16
00:01:43,380 --> 00:01:46,340
Seeing Garrett ride these waves
resonated with people
17
00:01:46,430 --> 00:01:50,430
watching a tiny little surfer conning
down this massive wave and then
18
00:01:50,510 --> 00:01:55,230
ygoing past this ancient structure
that's been there since the 1500s.
19
00:01:55,390 --> 00:01:57,310
You couldn't have made that up.
20
00:01:58,230 --> 00:02:01,320
And there are giant waves starting in
October all winter long,
21
00:02:01,480 --> 00:02:02,610
every three days.
22
00:02:02,780 --> 00:02:07,570
It's just the most amazing wave factory
that exists on the planet.
23
00:02:07,740 --> 00:02:14,040
One of the most, if not the most famous
surf spot in the world right now.
24
00:02:15,330 --> 00:02:19,960
But any surfer who's been involved in
the pioneering of a big wave break
25
00:02:20,040 --> 00:02:23,550
can't help but feel
some kind of ownership to it.
26
00:02:23,630 --> 00:02:28,510
It's got to be difficult for Garrett
to see this starlet he discovered
27
00:02:28,590 --> 00:02:31,600
sort of dating other handsome dudes.
28
00:02:33,810 --> 00:02:36,310
But that's just the way that things go.
29
00:02:41,440 --> 00:02:46,150
Check out these monster 100-foot waves
off Portugal.
30
00:02:46,240 --> 00:02:50,120
The biggest wave ever surfed.
As high as 100 feet.
31
00:02:50,200 --> 00:02:53,660
To put it in perspective, that is
taller than an 8-story building.
32
00:02:53,740 --> 00:02:56,960
Surfers are always
looking for the next great thing.
33
00:02:57,120 --> 00:03:01,040
It often breaks those brave or
crazy board riders.
34
00:03:01,130 --> 00:03:04,670
Severe white routes
and waves of mind boggling heights.
35
00:03:04,760 --> 00:03:07,720
What happens here,
happens nowhere else in the world.
36
00:03:07,880 --> 00:03:09,470
The biggest wave ever surfed.
37
00:03:09,550 --> 00:03:13,810
The biggest wave ever. A 100-foot wave.
38
00:03:16,180 --> 00:03:19,600
100 Foot Wave
39
00:03:21,060 --> 00:03:24,780
Chapter 5
The Circus
40
00:03:26,490 --> 00:03:29,740
Nazar�, Portugal
2019 Season 10
41
00:03:31,700 --> 00:03:35,490
No one would have had Portugal
on their top ten list of
42
00:03:35,660 --> 00:03:40,540
water sports destinations
ten years ago. But now
43
00:03:40,710 --> 00:03:44,040
yevery important big wave surfer
goes there,
44
00:03:44,130 --> 00:03:46,880
late October, early November, to train.
45
00:03:47,840 --> 00:03:52,260
And now the women with Maya
and Justine, it's really becoming
46
00:03:52,430 --> 00:03:55,680
a much more diverse time
in Big Wave surfing.
47
00:03:56,810 --> 00:03:58,640
Maya came very early on.
48
00:04:00,520 --> 00:04:02,650
She had a very bad experience
49
00:04:04,110 --> 00:04:07,780
and overcame the traumatic experience
50
00:04:09,030 --> 00:04:14,740
and became the most determined, the
most focused big wave surfing woman.
51
00:04:16,200 --> 00:04:20,250
I had a pretty guilty feeling
after the accident
52
00:04:20,410 --> 00:04:24,040
of wanting something too bad
that it almost killed me.
53
00:04:25,290 --> 00:04:28,050
If you ask me
what made me come back,
54
00:04:28,800 --> 00:04:34,010
I didn't want the accident to shape
the rest of my life.
55
00:04:37,220 --> 00:04:39,270
January 18th, 2018.
56
00:04:39,810 --> 00:04:43,350
We went out really early.
It was super cold.
57
00:04:43,520 --> 00:04:45,810
All the waves were especially big
58
00:04:45,980 --> 00:04:49,610
and I knew that if I rode a wave
that day
59
00:04:49,780 --> 00:04:53,200
it was
probably be a world record for a woman.
60
00:04:55,450 --> 00:04:58,240
And when it came I just knew it.
61
00:05:00,410 --> 00:05:04,790
I knew the wave had a lot of potential.
I knew there was a lot of water moving.
62
00:05:04,880 --> 00:05:07,960
I knew that I didn't want to fall.
63
00:05:08,840 --> 00:05:11,670
When I see that video,
I can barely believe it's me.
64
00:05:14,380 --> 00:05:18,010
That wave got me
the woman's world record.
65
00:05:18,100 --> 00:05:21,730
She ended up with the world record and
66
00:05:21,890 --> 00:05:24,350
I was so stoked.
67
00:05:25,940 --> 00:05:30,030
For a while she was the only girl
trying to charge.
68
00:05:32,320 --> 00:05:34,240
And then Justine came along
69
00:05:35,700 --> 00:05:39,490
and they're both just amazing, amazing
athletes.
70
00:05:40,580 --> 00:05:45,580
In big wave surfing the girls are just
as capable as the guys.
71
00:05:48,040 --> 00:05:52,300
Justine is one of the standout surfers
in Nazar�.
72
00:05:53,010 --> 00:05:56,090
Paddle, tow-in, stand up, short board.
73
00:05:56,260 --> 00:05:58,640
She's amazing at all of it.
74
00:05:59,810 --> 00:06:03,890
She brought some of the biggest waves
that are out there this year.
75
00:06:05,770 --> 00:06:08,190
I surf because I just love it.
That's all.
76
00:06:08,270 --> 00:06:13,820
To me surfing a wave is about being
present and being alive.
77
00:06:14,740 --> 00:06:20,370
To me there isn't a question of gender
between being a man or a woman surfer.
78
00:06:20,530 --> 00:06:24,410
You are seen as a surfer
79
00:06:24,500 --> 00:06:28,290
and seen by
the way you behave. It's that simple.
80
00:06:29,790 --> 00:06:31,960
I was happy when I first got here to
see Maya.
81
00:06:32,130 --> 00:06:38,220
She didn't ask herself if another woman
had gone to Nazar� before her.
82
00:06:39,340 --> 00:06:42,390
This was the first place I felt
83
00:06:42,560 --> 00:06:47,230
not judged by me being a woman
in the water.
84
00:06:47,730 --> 00:06:51,820
This small community, nobody cared that
I was a woman. Which is
85
00:06:51,980 --> 00:06:54,900
not something I can say about
Hawaii, and other places.
86
00:06:55,070 --> 00:07:00,160
I was accepted as I am. It didn't
matter if I was a woman or a man.
87
00:07:01,070 --> 00:07:03,660
I had my own surf technique.
88
00:07:03,830 --> 00:07:09,620
So I was respected because
they saw me as a good surfer.
89
00:07:12,210 --> 00:07:16,090
What she does and the commitment
she has in everything she does...
90
00:07:16,170 --> 00:07:17,300
It's amazing.
91
00:07:20,220 --> 00:07:22,760
I have Fred with me at all times.
He is a fish in the sea.
92
00:07:22,930 --> 00:07:29,060
He is a lifeguard and a professional
bodysurfer.
93
00:07:30,650 --> 00:07:35,570
It's great having my boyfriend,
94
00:07:35,650 --> 00:07:39,490
my partner,
my love with me in the water.
95
00:07:40,910 --> 00:07:44,950
I chose to live my life with these
big waves in Nazar� for now.
96
00:07:45,120 --> 00:07:48,410
Yes I'd love to catch a giant wave
97
00:07:48,500 --> 00:07:54,170
and I think every surfer that comes to
Nazar� shares the same desire.
98
00:07:55,380 --> 00:07:58,300
More than 20,000 flashes of lightning
were recorded
99
00:07:58,380 --> 00:08:01,470
as the storm raged throughout Saturday
and into Sunday.
100
00:08:02,260 --> 00:08:06,390
Rain warnings in effect for pretty much
all of Portugal at this time.
101
00:08:07,310 --> 00:08:08,520
In addition to this,
102
00:08:08,600 --> 00:08:12,940
the red surf warning in effect
for some of those coastal areas.
103
00:08:14,060 --> 00:08:17,150
Night before the swell
104
00:08:17,980 --> 00:08:21,110
Come see what we're getting tomorrow.
105
00:08:21,280 --> 00:08:23,110
It's a rare one.
106
00:08:23,280 --> 00:08:25,910
Huge and coming right at us.
107
00:08:26,990 --> 00:08:30,960
That's sick. It's the entire ocean.
108
00:08:31,040 --> 00:08:33,830
I have faith that it'll be here
by the afternoon.
109
00:08:49,060 --> 00:08:50,600
That's tight, eh?
110
00:08:55,440 --> 00:08:58,150
I'm kinda feeling
like I might catch a wave.
111
00:08:59,940 --> 00:09:02,530
It's so clean. Why wouldn't I?
112
00:09:06,620 --> 00:09:10,370
Because you had a foot operation
like six weeks ago.
113
00:09:10,540 --> 00:09:13,120
Yeah but when I'm flat footed,
it's fine.
114
00:09:14,500 --> 00:09:19,380
Just don't put it back. It's not even
halfway through the winter.
115
00:09:25,220 --> 00:09:29,510
Morning of the swell
116
00:09:30,850 --> 00:09:36,020
I remember kind of thinking it still
might be possible the whole time.
117
00:09:36,520 --> 00:09:38,570
And I almost was gonna surf.
118
00:09:40,150 --> 00:09:44,490
I was in my hotel room
and I was looking in the mirror,
119
00:09:44,570 --> 00:09:47,530
talking to myself,
trying to figure it out.
120
00:09:47,700 --> 00:09:50,290
Playing through
the different scenarios.
121
00:09:50,450 --> 00:09:51,700
Is that a Patagonia suit?
122
00:09:51,790 --> 00:09:55,710
I felt confident about driving
and putting Cotty and CJ on waves.
123
00:09:56,370 --> 00:10:00,130
But I didn't feel confident
about taking a big wipeout.
124
00:10:03,050 --> 00:10:06,970
I'm just doing my best to stay calm
and patient.
125
00:10:07,050 --> 00:10:11,180
I'm feeling like we should be at the
Harbor going into the water already.
126
00:10:12,020 --> 00:10:15,640
But it doesn't matter, I'm not surfing.
127
00:10:21,020 --> 00:10:22,570
Do you get nervous?
128
00:10:24,990 --> 00:10:26,400
Oh yeah.
129
00:10:29,820 --> 00:10:34,410
I probably get more nervous about the
fact that it's CJ instead of Garrett.
130
00:10:39,380 --> 00:10:41,710
There's a really perfect, clean swell.
131
00:10:41,880 --> 00:10:45,670
The kind of days that I really look
forward to surfing here in Nazar�.
132
00:10:46,970 --> 00:10:49,760
I'm gonna put CJ
on the wave of his life today.
133
00:10:49,930 --> 00:10:53,260
The only one you want is you want this,
or you want this.
134
00:10:53,350 --> 00:10:56,520
This one to come right here
in the middle. Then this one's hollow.
135
00:10:56,600 --> 00:10:58,980
I'd say there are going to be at least
30 skis out there
136
00:10:59,150 --> 00:11:01,860
so it's going to be pretty crowded.
137
00:11:03,190 --> 00:11:04,980
This is actually the best it's been
looking.
138
00:11:05,150 --> 00:11:07,400
Look at that, that looks fucking nice.
139
00:11:07,490 --> 00:11:11,780
Once we've realized Garrett's foot was
messed up and he wasn't gonna surf,
140
00:11:11,950 --> 00:11:16,960
it kind of put Garrett, Cotty and I
all in our own versions
141
00:11:17,040 --> 00:11:19,790
of what's going on here, as opposed to;
142
00:11:19,870 --> 00:11:24,210
okay boom, we're all on the same page.
We're healthy, we all want this wave.
143
00:11:24,380 --> 00:11:26,420
The three of us were in different
places, you know?
144
00:11:26,510 --> 00:11:28,930
Me with minor injuries
still looking to surf.
145
00:11:29,010 --> 00:11:34,680
Garrett like really taking a step back
and Cotty like rearing, ready to go.
146
00:11:34,850 --> 00:11:38,270
- What are you thinking?
- Don't know really.
147
00:11:38,350 --> 00:11:41,480
Cotty reminds me a lot of myself
148
00:11:42,190 --> 00:11:45,610
as far as his desires and his focus.
149
00:11:46,650 --> 00:11:49,280
It's nice to see him so hungry.
150
00:11:49,360 --> 00:11:51,780
It would be nice to get him
what he's looking for.
151
00:11:54,580 --> 00:11:57,700
- Are you excited?
- Sort of. Nervous, you know?
152
00:11:57,790 --> 00:12:00,870
- It looks like the magic day.
- Yep.
153
00:12:00,960 --> 00:12:03,250
You're excited but nervous.
154
00:12:09,840 --> 00:12:15,010
This was the biggest swell that came
through this season, so far.
155
00:12:16,220 --> 00:12:20,940
It was Garrett's first time really
driving since the foot injury, and
156
00:12:21,100 --> 00:12:24,020
we were ready for a giant wave
to come through.
157
00:12:26,820 --> 00:12:30,320
We're going to offer this to the ocean
in thanks and gratitude and also
158
00:12:30,490 --> 00:12:34,740
asking her permission to keep us safe
and protect all of us.
159
00:12:34,820 --> 00:12:38,910
That we can all stay present
and just soak it all up.
160
00:12:39,000 --> 00:12:41,790
Be in our bodies
and have some good experiences.
161
00:12:53,430 --> 00:12:56,720
- Everything cool?
- Yes. Hi.
162
00:12:56,800 --> 00:13:00,560
Okay, so we're all linked up now.
Is everybody good?
163
00:13:00,730 --> 00:13:03,440
- Does anybody need anything?
- All good.
164
00:13:13,240 --> 00:13:15,070
When I got back on the waves
165
00:13:15,910 --> 00:13:20,620
I definitely felt a big uprising
166
00:13:20,790 --> 00:13:24,790
in competitive energy.
Just with all the people up there.
167
00:13:24,960 --> 00:13:26,790
It's a circus out there now.
168
00:13:28,170 --> 00:13:31,210
Everyone's there. Ready to go.
169
00:13:31,380 --> 00:13:35,300
Wanting to push the limits, wanting to
catch the biggest wave ever.
170
00:13:35,380 --> 00:13:37,510
Look at what you've created.
171
00:13:39,350 --> 00:13:40,810
It's kind of surreal
172
00:13:40,970 --> 00:13:46,730
looking back to how good
we had it when we learned about it.
173
00:13:46,810 --> 00:13:51,940
Now there is 20-30 jet skis.
174
00:13:52,690 --> 00:13:54,320
Who's to blame?
175
00:13:55,820 --> 00:13:59,990
Us?
You're a victim of your own success.
176
00:14:00,910 --> 00:14:05,210
This is the first time that I'm surfing
Nazar� in six years and
177
00:14:05,370 --> 00:14:09,380
I definitely have that feeling of
the new kid in school.
178
00:14:09,540 --> 00:14:13,340
All these pros, everyone I see
in all the videos and everything.
179
00:14:13,420 --> 00:14:18,550
They don't know who I am and I'm just
kinda Garrett's sidekick.
180
00:14:18,640 --> 00:14:22,810
And then there's the other side of that
too, the Portuguese people especially,
181
00:14:22,890 --> 00:14:25,430
they would remind me.
No you're the original.
182
00:14:25,600 --> 00:14:29,150
You were here with Garrett
for the first time.
183
00:14:29,230 --> 00:14:30,560
So that's good too because
184
00:14:30,730 --> 00:14:35,240
I need to learn to
claim my moment.
185
00:14:35,400 --> 00:14:37,700
Claim what's rightfully mine,
you know?
186
00:14:37,780 --> 00:14:41,870
And if it's just one glorious wave at
Nazar� amidst all these people
187
00:14:42,030 --> 00:14:43,620
it's like no, I can get one too.
188
00:14:44,290 --> 00:14:46,000
- Nicole, you up in here?
- Yeah.
189
00:14:46,160 --> 00:14:51,090
We're in between first and second peak
way outside the furthest out.
190
00:14:51,170 --> 00:14:55,840
A little outside,
you might add one that swings in.
191
00:14:56,010 --> 00:15:02,260
I'm basically trying to get one wave
and get the biggest wave that I can.
192
00:15:03,430 --> 00:15:07,940
And I see this big set come through.
I'm like man, that's the one.
193
00:15:10,770 --> 00:15:13,320
Garrett puts me on the right way up
the beach
194
00:15:14,070 --> 00:15:17,150
and I go on this thing
and I'm like lining up
195
00:15:17,320 --> 00:15:20,700
and I drop down
and I'm just flying so fast
196
00:15:20,780 --> 00:15:23,740
and it's bumping so hard
and I'm barely staying on.
197
00:15:23,830 --> 00:15:27,250
I feel like I'm fighting to stay on.
198
00:15:28,660 --> 00:15:32,000
You fall off you're like...
199
00:15:32,840 --> 00:15:36,920
with no breath for a while.
And that's a very scary thought.
200
00:15:38,260 --> 00:15:41,680
End up making it out and there's
a bigger wave behind it.
201
00:15:41,760 --> 00:15:43,550
Massive, it comes and picks me up.
202
00:15:43,640 --> 00:15:47,480
I like get the board on,
get on the sled
203
00:15:47,560 --> 00:15:49,350
and he was flying out of there.
204
00:15:51,690 --> 00:15:56,030
That was CJ,
he gets out and I put him on the sled.
205
00:15:56,110 --> 00:15:59,570
We got down there really quick
and the board came out from under him.
206
00:15:59,650 --> 00:16:03,740
So his board is on the beach
and I'm not sure how we can get it.
207
00:16:03,820 --> 00:16:07,620
I was pretty happy
that my board washed in.
208
00:16:07,700 --> 00:16:10,540
And I kinda couldn't surf any other
waves because
209
00:16:10,710 --> 00:16:13,420
it was pretty terrifying.
I felt pretty unstable
210
00:16:13,580 --> 00:16:17,250
going that fast with those bumps,
flying down that wave.
211
00:16:17,340 --> 00:16:21,470
I was like oh my god, am I like ready
for this right now?
212
00:16:21,550 --> 00:16:25,350
And I didn't really feel like
I was too ready for it.
213
00:16:25,430 --> 00:16:28,600
So it freaked me out actually,
quite a bit.
214
00:16:31,140 --> 00:16:33,350
That was a big ass wave.
215
00:16:34,810 --> 00:16:36,150
- Which one?
- Yours.
216
00:16:36,230 --> 00:16:38,900
It was, huh?
It felt big. Couldn't tell.
217
00:16:39,860 --> 00:16:43,070
- How'd it feel?
- Weird, it was bumpy.
218
00:16:44,200 --> 00:16:48,330
I'm questioning and doubting.
Like what am I doing?
219
00:16:48,410 --> 00:16:50,790
What am I doing?
Is it really that fun
220
00:16:50,960 --> 00:16:54,000
trying to be out there and surf these
50-60
221
00:16:54,080 --> 00:16:57,380
we're talking about 100-foot wave,
is it that fun?
222
00:16:59,300 --> 00:17:00,340
Not really.
223
00:17:00,510 --> 00:17:05,090
So I'm thinking, what am I doing?
I'm out there risking my life
224
00:17:05,970 --> 00:17:07,720
for what?
225
00:17:07,810 --> 00:17:11,060
What if 200-foot waves existed
on the planet? Good ones.
226
00:17:11,140 --> 00:17:13,230
Are we gonna be out there
trying to surf 'em?
227
00:17:13,310 --> 00:17:15,940
Where do we draw the line?
228
00:17:17,230 --> 00:17:19,280
How was the feeling about the teams?
229
00:17:19,360 --> 00:17:22,400
There was a lot of people with jet skis
and...
230
00:17:22,490 --> 00:17:24,740
I kind of liked it, it was nice.
231
00:17:26,370 --> 00:17:28,660
The waves are being surfed all over
the place.
232
00:17:28,740 --> 00:17:31,870
Usually there's a lot of waves
not being ridden,
233
00:17:31,950 --> 00:17:34,160
and it's fun to watch everybody ride.
234
00:17:35,080 --> 00:17:37,460
People on the cliff are happy.
235
00:17:37,630 --> 00:17:41,300
I've surfed enough waves out here,
it's fun to watch people now.
236
00:17:42,340 --> 00:17:44,840
Earlier that day
237
00:17:51,470 --> 00:17:54,480
Let's take a trip to Portugal
with some impressive images.
238
00:17:54,560 --> 00:17:58,060
It's a French surfer that rode
one of the world's biggest waves.
239
00:17:58,230 --> 00:17:59,980
Yes, her name is Justine Dupont.
She is 28 years old.
240
00:18:00,150 --> 00:18:03,360
And she surfed the biggest wave
of her life.
241
00:18:15,500 --> 00:18:18,630
Yesterday something extraordinary
happened.
242
00:18:18,710 --> 00:18:21,380
There was a very big swell.
And I surfed a crazy wave.
243
00:18:21,550 --> 00:18:24,630
Frankly, by far,
the most beautiful wave of my life.
244
00:18:25,590 --> 00:18:29,390
The perspective to be able to see
the wave and the way the shadow was.
245
00:18:29,550 --> 00:18:32,180
You know, it's amazing.
246
00:18:35,730 --> 00:18:39,940
Yeah she scored this wave with a bunch
of dudes out there,
247
00:18:40,110 --> 00:18:44,490
and somehow she got that wave at the
bottom of the day and just charged it.
248
00:18:46,950 --> 00:18:50,120
It was one of the best shots
I ever filmed.
249
00:18:51,660 --> 00:18:55,080
Laurent was in the water shooting
the wave.
250
00:18:55,160 --> 00:18:58,170
And I was driving the jetski.
251
00:18:58,330 --> 00:19:01,210
We really got away from the beginning
until the end.
252
00:19:02,040 --> 00:19:04,630
And everything you want
it's on the footage.
253
00:19:09,640 --> 00:19:11,640
That was the best one today.
254
00:19:15,350 --> 00:19:19,850
It's an interesting world.
Surfers and surf photographers.
255
00:19:20,560 --> 00:19:23,770
It's a very codependent relationship
256
00:19:23,940 --> 00:19:27,990
because really you can't have
a surf photographer
257
00:19:28,070 --> 00:19:29,570
without a professional surfer
258
00:19:29,740 --> 00:19:34,240
and you can't be a surfer if you
don't have a photographer.
259
00:19:34,410 --> 00:19:39,960
If you want to go out and surf for
fun... Photographers aren't necessary.
260
00:19:40,120 --> 00:19:43,590
But if you want to surf for a living
261
00:19:43,670 --> 00:19:46,840
you've got to document
most of the things you do.
262
00:19:49,840 --> 00:19:54,430
And in the world of cinematography
and the ocean
263
00:19:54,510 --> 00:19:57,560
Mike Prickett
has been at the forefront.
264
00:19:57,720 --> 00:19:59,060
My name is Mike Prickett
265
00:19:59,140 --> 00:20:02,190
and I'm a surf cinematographer
from the North Shore of Hawaii.
266
00:20:03,940 --> 00:20:08,820
I've been doing this,
jeez for almost 40 years.
267
00:20:08,990 --> 00:20:11,110
Since 1979 I think I started.
268
00:20:12,820 --> 00:20:17,950
Mike Prickett is one of the greatest
surf cinematographers in history.
269
00:20:21,250 --> 00:20:23,630
Mike was always at the top of his game,
270
00:20:23,790 --> 00:20:27,840
he was always the guy
you wanted working with you.
271
00:20:28,460 --> 00:20:32,380
He's a legend in the community
swimming out in the biggest days of surf
272
00:20:32,550 --> 00:20:34,890
with these
massive camera rigs on his shoulder.
273
00:20:35,050 --> 00:20:38,140
Basically almost any film that
you've seen that's water work
274
00:20:38,220 --> 00:20:40,310
to just any surf movie
275
00:20:40,390 --> 00:20:45,060
Mike has shot. But Mike has gone
through some tough times.
276
00:20:45,230 --> 00:20:48,440
He had a horrific accident in Tahiti.
277
00:20:48,610 --> 00:20:51,320
I went to Tahiti to do a commercial,
278
00:20:51,400 --> 00:20:56,200
and I saw a diver that was in trouble,
that got stuck in a down current.
279
00:20:57,580 --> 00:21:01,500
So I went down to rescue him. When I
got to him he was 220 feet under water.
280
00:21:01,580 --> 00:21:02,750
He had no air.
281
00:21:02,910 --> 00:21:05,500
He was in a complete panic,
his eyes were this big.
282
00:21:05,670 --> 00:21:08,500
I was trying to get him to calm down
because he was hyperventilating.
283
00:21:08,590 --> 00:21:10,800
But as I was bringing him
to the surface
284
00:21:10,960 --> 00:21:14,680
I could feel the air starting get lower
we were going to run out of air soon.
285
00:21:14,760 --> 00:21:17,930
We had no choice
but to make an emergency ascent.
286
00:21:18,100 --> 00:21:21,140
We broke through the surface
and we didn't even make a safety stop.
287
00:21:21,310 --> 00:21:23,890
Within a matter of moments
he was already passed out.
288
00:21:23,980 --> 00:21:26,610
Due to getting the bends.
289
00:21:27,270 --> 00:21:32,240
The bends are bubbles in your blood. So
the bubbles went into my spinal cord.
290
00:21:33,450 --> 00:21:36,870
On March 14th I was injured
in a dive accident in Tahiti
291
00:21:36,950 --> 00:21:39,950
and paralyzed from the waist down.
And
292
00:21:40,120 --> 00:21:45,120
the doctor says I have about six months
before I plateau off of my recovery.
293
00:21:46,750 --> 00:21:51,710
Yeah I got six months to see
if I can ever walk again. We'll see.
294
00:22:01,520 --> 00:22:04,020
It's been quite a while
since that happened.
295
00:22:04,100 --> 00:22:08,060
I was in a wheelchair. I don't really
bring my wheel chair with me.
296
00:22:08,230 --> 00:22:12,570
I just force myself to hobble around
and I torture all my friends
297
00:22:12,730 --> 00:22:15,900
to go slow walking with me,
because I take forever.
298
00:22:16,570 --> 00:22:21,790
Yeah they don't care. They're like ah,
come on pick it up, crippled guy.
299
00:22:25,960 --> 00:22:29,000
Slowly, through the physical therapy
he's able to move his legs.
300
00:22:29,080 --> 00:22:32,550
He still has no feeling on them but
he's walking around with crutches now,
301
00:22:32,630 --> 00:22:36,720
I took a slow road to recovery
but yeah that's kind of what happened.
302
00:22:38,970 --> 00:22:40,140
Let's go and get in position.
303
00:22:40,300 --> 00:22:44,470
We shoot a regular surfing shot in the
shoulder of the waves right now.
304
00:22:44,560 --> 00:22:46,270
And then after that
we'll try and track one.
305
00:22:46,350 --> 00:22:48,850
I'm going to tow Cotty on a couple of
waves.
306
00:22:48,940 --> 00:22:53,360
We're going to move over to second,
third peak away from the surfers.
307
00:22:54,230 --> 00:22:55,320
Here we go. Rolling.
308
00:22:58,240 --> 00:23:01,070
Garrett is pulling
Cotty down a wave.
309
00:23:02,200 --> 00:23:05,200
And we're looking at Cotty
and he's going right.
310
00:23:05,290 --> 00:23:07,580
Yup. We got it.
311
00:23:14,460 --> 00:23:19,380
I've been here a long time doing
footage on the jetski with a go-pro.
312
00:23:20,220 --> 00:23:23,100
This is the future.
313
00:23:30,520 --> 00:23:32,610
Everything looks good.
314
00:23:32,690 --> 00:23:35,650
To see Mike come back
and continue to do amazing
315
00:23:35,820 --> 00:23:38,450
both technically and artistically...
316
00:23:38,530 --> 00:23:41,110
Is just an absolute inspiration.
317
00:23:47,500 --> 00:23:52,630
I was elected Mayor
on the 29th of September 2013.
318
00:23:53,840 --> 00:23:55,750
When I came to the citadel,
319
00:23:55,840 --> 00:23:59,880
the Nazar� Project had already
fulfilled some of its goals
320
00:23:59,970 --> 00:24:05,850
and we needed to open up Nazar�
to other surfers, to spread the word.
321
00:24:05,930 --> 00:24:08,390
And within that vision for me,
322
00:24:08,560 --> 00:24:12,060
it was mandatory to have a world
surf league event every year.
323
00:24:15,480 --> 00:24:18,230
October 30, 2019
Nazar� Tow Challenge Announcement
324
00:24:18,320 --> 00:24:23,240
Through the work of Garrett and
through the work also of the ladies,
325
00:24:23,320 --> 00:24:25,780
we celebrate this event here.
326
00:24:25,870 --> 00:24:31,960
We've been showcasing the world
that the big waves...
327
00:24:32,750 --> 00:24:36,840
making sure that my dream
and the dream of a lot of people
328
00:24:36,920 --> 00:24:40,300
in Nazar� is maintained
through the years.
329
00:24:42,930 --> 00:24:44,300
It's good to see. Good to see.
330
00:24:47,060 --> 00:24:49,850
I'm really excited about the Nazar�
tow challenge.
331
00:24:49,930 --> 00:24:53,940
Yes I'm really excited about the Nazar�
tow challenge. It's...
332
00:24:54,020 --> 00:24:57,900
again it's another opportunity to
compete on the world stage.
333
00:24:58,070 --> 00:24:59,860
Looking for the perfect conditions.
334
00:24:59,940 --> 00:25:04,320
I want to be actually surfing
and not surviving.
335
00:25:08,080 --> 00:25:09,740
Big wave surfing events
336
00:25:09,910 --> 00:25:15,580
generally have a window that
will run a certain number of months.
337
00:25:16,210 --> 00:25:19,340
The Nazar� tow Surfing Challenge
started November 1
338
00:25:19,420 --> 00:25:22,760
and ran through the end of February.
So we have four months to wait for
339
00:25:22,840 --> 00:25:26,550
just the right combination of
all the elements to come together.
340
00:25:27,140 --> 00:25:30,720
Calling the day for a big wave event
341
00:25:30,890 --> 00:25:35,980
is probably one of the most complex
things you can
342
00:25:36,150 --> 00:25:38,820
possibly do
in the sporting world by a mile.
343
00:25:38,980 --> 00:25:42,820
The Super Bowl...
I can tell you five years from now
344
00:25:42,900 --> 00:25:45,660
exactly what day and hour
the kickoff is.
345
00:25:45,740 --> 00:25:48,070
In big waves, it's just not like that.
346
00:25:48,160 --> 00:25:51,200
There's gonna be a day at some point
in the next four months
347
00:25:51,290 --> 00:25:53,660
and we'll tell you
three days in advance.
348
00:25:53,750 --> 00:25:57,500
You are constantly monitoring
the local weather, the tide,
349
00:25:57,670 --> 00:26:00,800
the exact direction of the swell.
350
00:26:00,960 --> 00:26:02,760
You never know totally for sure.
351
00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:06,720
But you have that pressure of saying,
look, we're going to run an event.
352
00:26:06,890 --> 00:26:09,890
We're going to have a hundred people
from around the world fly in.
353
00:26:10,050 --> 00:26:15,350
We're gonna spend between the events
and the prize money and the broadcast
354
00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:17,730
probably not far off a million dollars.
355
00:26:17,900 --> 00:26:22,980
So when that perfect storm does come,
you don't want to blow it.
356
00:26:40,130 --> 00:26:41,710
February 2020
357
00:26:41,790 --> 00:26:44,630
Three months
after contest announcement.
358
00:26:47,630 --> 00:26:50,390
On February 8th
the WSL announced that
359
00:26:50,470 --> 00:26:55,060
he Nazar� Tow Challenge would be held
on February 11th.
360
00:26:55,140 --> 00:27:00,150
The clock was ticking away
with an amazing crew of decision makers
361
00:27:00,230 --> 00:27:04,400
of the world surf league and especially
the local crew there at Nazar�
362
00:27:04,480 --> 00:27:09,360
were able to just take what we knew
about every other storm that's coming
363
00:27:09,450 --> 00:27:11,030
in the last six or seven years
364
00:27:11,120 --> 00:27:16,620
and study it and look for the one that
had all the right components.
365
00:27:18,410 --> 00:27:23,170
February 11th was going to be easily
the best day of the year.
366
00:27:24,960 --> 00:27:28,630
They reached out and I said yes,
it looks amazing.
367
00:27:28,720 --> 00:27:31,010
There's definitely a swell.
368
00:27:31,090 --> 00:27:36,180
It seems to be big enough. And I
believe the waves will be there.
369
00:27:37,890 --> 00:27:42,400
It's pretty cool, exactly what we had
envisioned and focused on
370
00:27:42,480 --> 00:27:46,320
and plan from this place from the day
we showed up
371
00:27:46,400 --> 00:27:48,950
is now actually happening.
372
00:27:49,110 --> 00:27:51,360
And Cotty's got a spo.
373
00:27:53,870 --> 00:27:56,830
I got a spot but I'm... I don't...
374
00:27:56,910 --> 00:28:00,290
I'm not gonna...
but I am keeping a wildcard spot
375
00:28:00,370 --> 00:28:05,710
so that if I'm better and it is
the 100-foot day then I'll surf it.
376
00:28:05,880 --> 00:28:07,170
What's up?
377
00:28:07,260 --> 00:28:11,430
How are you? I'm getting excited
for you, for this year.
378
00:28:11,510 --> 00:28:15,010
- I'll definitely be ready to drive.
- Yeah?
379
00:28:15,100 --> 00:28:20,770
I'm 100% ready to be on the cliff and
orchestrating, that would be fun too.
380
00:28:20,850 --> 00:28:24,900
- I think that could be more valuable.
- More valuable, huh?
381
00:28:24,980 --> 00:28:27,940
But you'll be freaking out...
382
00:28:28,780 --> 00:28:31,150
When I watched from the cliff
I couldn't do it.
383
00:28:31,240 --> 00:28:34,700
- Couldn't do it.
- It freaks me out.
384
00:28:34,780 --> 00:28:36,530
Because you want to be in the water.
385
00:28:36,620 --> 00:28:40,040
Well you want to be in the water,
but also from that different angle
386
00:28:40,120 --> 00:28:43,830
it looks so much more gnarlier
than from the beach at times.
387
00:28:43,920 --> 00:28:45,920
- Alright, love you.
- Right. I'll speak to you in a bit.
388
00:28:46,000 --> 00:28:47,630
Love you buddy.
389
00:28:56,600 --> 00:29:00,140
When Garrett was starting to talk about
the tow contest and everything,
390
00:29:01,430 --> 00:29:05,520
I felt like I had no business being
in it at all.
391
00:29:05,690 --> 00:29:08,400
It just felt way out of my league
honestly.
392
00:29:10,400 --> 00:29:16,490
All these surfers have had an extra
six years experiencing surfing Nazar�,
393
00:29:16,660 --> 00:29:19,120
when I haven't even been around.
394
00:29:19,290 --> 00:29:24,170
Yeah, it was hardly even on my radar
to be a competitor in that.
395
00:29:26,460 --> 00:29:30,710
So I didn't come for the second half of
the season just because
396
00:29:30,880 --> 00:29:32,840
I didn't feel ready.
397
00:29:32,920 --> 00:29:38,800
And also, I had another opportunity,
a thing that arose that was
398
00:29:38,970 --> 00:29:43,230
more what I was supposed to be doing,
which was going deeper into healing.
399
00:29:44,810 --> 00:29:47,940
I flew down to Peru for two weeks.
400
00:29:49,770 --> 00:29:54,900
This tribe has created this little
village center there
401
00:29:54,990 --> 00:29:59,620
for people to come and experience
the medicine of the jungle.
402
00:29:59,700 --> 00:30:01,620
The diet is two meals a day
403
00:30:02,910 --> 00:30:06,790
and then at nighttime,
dinner is drinking Ayahuasca.
404
00:30:07,960 --> 00:30:09,880
So I went there
looking for some healing,
405
00:30:09,960 --> 00:30:13,510
looking for some answers and clarity
on life.
406
00:30:15,800 --> 00:30:21,890
And I've gotten so much growth and
learning from that experience.
407
00:30:24,140 --> 00:30:27,270
As I'm getting clearer on
408
00:30:27,730 --> 00:30:30,730
what all this means
and what's important to myself,
409
00:30:31,650 --> 00:30:36,400
I'm finding more respect
and a different kind of drive
410
00:30:36,490 --> 00:30:41,030
for pushing these limits
and surfing this giant wave.
411
00:30:43,080 --> 00:30:47,040
I feel better about the quest now
412
00:30:47,120 --> 00:30:49,210
for this hundred-foot wave
413
00:30:49,290 --> 00:30:52,750
and I don't feel rushed at all
about it.
414
00:30:55,090 --> 00:30:57,380
It's gonna come when it comes.
415
00:31:03,390 --> 00:31:08,310
With the contest on and stuff it's not
been the most straightforward of years.
416
00:31:08,980 --> 00:31:13,400
I've been surfing with Garrett
for the last 8, 9 years
417
00:31:13,480 --> 00:31:16,150
and obviously
Garrett's been injured.
418
00:31:16,320 --> 00:31:20,490
So I've been partnered with Tom Butler
from the UK.
419
00:31:21,410 --> 00:31:25,160
- You wearing gloves?
- No, I'll probably regret that.
420
00:31:25,240 --> 00:31:27,290
- Regret that?
- Yeah.
421
00:31:28,040 --> 00:31:29,790
I've been putting in the time with Tom
422
00:31:29,960 --> 00:31:33,380
we have to then build our connection
together. We've got to compete.
423
00:31:36,550 --> 00:31:41,720
I'm fortunate to have Tom because he
was one of the early guys at Nazar�.
424
00:31:51,150 --> 00:31:55,520
The WSL tow challenge is being watched
all around the world.
425
00:31:55,610 --> 00:31:59,950
News crews are coming from all around
the world and that's pressure.
426
00:32:02,870 --> 00:32:06,540
But it didn't take too long
and we were getting quite comfortable.
427
00:32:06,620 --> 00:32:08,160
We believed in ourselves.
428
00:32:09,750 --> 00:32:15,710
Cotty's excited, hungry, wants it,
he's been training for it all year.
429
00:32:16,340 --> 00:32:19,260
He's got a good partner
and they're ready.
430
00:32:21,680 --> 00:32:25,680
But they'll also have some serious
competition.
431
00:32:25,850 --> 00:32:27,350
Grab the keys.
432
00:32:30,390 --> 00:32:33,020
How's it going? Good to see you.
433
00:32:34,980 --> 00:32:36,650
Can I feel your board?
434
00:32:39,240 --> 00:32:42,820
- Do you like them that weight?
- Oh it's just for because it's small.
435
00:32:42,910 --> 00:32:45,410
I have my heavy ones for tomorrow
and the next day.
436
00:32:45,490 --> 00:32:48,540
- How heavy?
- Ten kilos. Yeah.
437
00:32:48,700 --> 00:32:51,960
Is this one you were doing
on the flip side? Sick.
438
00:32:52,460 --> 00:32:54,290
That's the guy to watch, Kai Lenny.
439
00:32:54,380 --> 00:32:58,340
He does every discipline in the water,
he's the best at everything.
440
00:32:59,590 --> 00:33:02,800
He does 360s and lands it,
and it's amazing.
441
00:33:02,970 --> 00:33:07,300
So I think he's the best guy to watch.
He's an up comer.
442
00:33:07,470 --> 00:33:12,100
Now that Garrett's discovered this
wave, Kai's going to rip it apart.
443
00:33:14,520 --> 00:33:17,820
If you need anything while you're here
please let me know.
444
00:33:17,900 --> 00:33:23,110
- Thanks, G Mac. Maybe some tips.
- I'll get tips from you.
445
00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:32,660
Big wave surfing definitely has its
old guard and its new guard
446
00:33:32,750 --> 00:33:35,620
and Garrett's the ultimate example of
the old guard.
447
00:33:35,710 --> 00:33:39,590
The new guard is perfectly represented
by Kai Lenny.
448
00:33:39,670 --> 00:33:42,840
He's like a once in a generation freak.
449
00:33:44,130 --> 00:33:48,600
He's just progressing more rapidly than
any surfer in history.
450
00:33:50,180 --> 00:33:53,640
Big wave surfing probably will never be
the same after Kai Lenny.
451
00:33:53,810 --> 00:33:58,270
I mean the things that he's doing.
Garrett isn't gonna be doing that.
452
00:33:58,360 --> 00:34:01,650
I don't see CJ doing that,
I don't see Cotty doing that.
453
00:34:04,070 --> 00:34:06,990
Big wave surfing ebbs and flows with
popularity.
454
00:34:07,700 --> 00:34:13,080
Someone like Garrett has gone through
the highs and the lows of the sport.
455
00:34:13,160 --> 00:34:16,210
I think as far as progression
goes within the sport,
456
00:34:16,290 --> 00:34:19,960
it's gonna keep on going places
no one ever thought was possible.
457
00:34:20,790 --> 00:34:25,090
My towing partner for the Nazar�
challenge is Lucas Chumbo.
458
00:34:25,170 --> 00:34:27,840
When Lucas and I decided to team up,
459
00:34:27,930 --> 00:34:31,640
he in my eyes was the most progressive
big wave surfer.
460
00:34:31,720 --> 00:34:35,810
He's really pushing the level at Nazar�
with giant barrels and giant airs
461
00:34:35,890 --> 00:34:37,690
and big maneuvers.
462
00:34:37,770 --> 00:34:41,360
And I wanted to be partnered with
somebody that
463
00:34:41,440 --> 00:34:43,650
I had a huge amount of respect for,
464
00:34:43,820 --> 00:34:46,820
and who I thought was actually better
than me.
465
00:34:48,410 --> 00:34:53,240
- Mr. McNamara!
- How you doing? Good to see you.
466
00:34:53,330 --> 00:34:57,080
Lucas is somebody to focus on.
467
00:34:57,250 --> 00:34:59,120
This is the blow.
468
00:34:59,210 --> 00:35:01,380
When I got here in Nazar�
469
00:35:01,540 --> 00:35:05,300
I feel so much at home,
470
00:35:05,380 --> 00:35:08,680
or I feel so comfortable here.
471
00:35:09,720 --> 00:35:13,390
At my home I'm doing what I love.
472
00:35:14,060 --> 00:35:18,730
And for sure I'm in the best place
to do what I love.
473
00:35:23,270 --> 00:35:26,360
What's up guys? Did you get a couple?
474
00:35:26,440 --> 00:35:31,320
- We didn't see you in yesterday.
- Yeah, a day out of the wet suit.
475
00:35:31,410 --> 00:35:33,120
You know what time I finished?
476
00:35:33,200 --> 00:35:37,200
2:00 AM to clean the ski.
477
00:35:37,790 --> 00:35:42,330
I'm done today. I need to rest.
478
00:35:44,090 --> 00:35:47,760
I loved it actually when I came first
time to Nazar�,
479
00:35:47,920 --> 00:35:49,720
I didn't have any sponsor.
480
00:35:49,800 --> 00:35:55,510
Then two years after I got this sponsor
from Red Bull
481
00:35:55,600 --> 00:36:01,600
and this is... was a dream for me
and now I have my locker.
482
00:36:07,150 --> 00:36:12,030
I want to thank you for coming to the
inaugural Nazar� Tow Surfing Challenge.
483
00:36:12,200 --> 00:36:16,240
This is an event that for a lot of us
has been a lifetime in preparation for.
484
00:36:16,410 --> 00:36:19,830
A real opportunity to showcase the
state of the art big wave surfing.
485
00:36:26,420 --> 00:36:29,590
When we get up to make the record,
486
00:36:29,760 --> 00:36:32,220
nobody go to the light house
on that day.
487
00:36:32,300 --> 00:36:34,850
Imagine the difference between
that day and now.
488
00:36:35,720 --> 00:36:39,350
I imagine this is the first time
you've come back to Nazar�
489
00:36:39,430 --> 00:36:41,100
since you had the accident?
490
00:36:41,180 --> 00:36:43,940
Oh no, no. That was like years ago now.
491
00:36:44,100 --> 00:36:48,320
Do people think you're a bit like mad
that you're coming back after that?
492
00:36:48,400 --> 00:36:54,990
Nah because if it was that horrendous
then I wouldn't want to do it again.
493
00:36:55,160 --> 00:36:58,950
And I never thought I was gonna drown
or die, so it's just an injury.
494
00:36:59,120 --> 00:37:02,790
- Cheers man.
- Thank you, you're very kind.
495
00:37:03,830 --> 00:37:06,670
Being constantly reminded
about the wipeout
496
00:37:07,710 --> 00:37:09,800
we can't take too seriously.
497
00:37:10,210 --> 00:37:14,010
It's just part of it,
getting the exposure as well.
498
00:37:15,260 --> 00:37:19,100
I could have made that wave and
could've been the best of my life.
499
00:37:19,850 --> 00:37:22,770
But probably no one would have ever
seen it.
500
00:37:22,930 --> 00:37:27,900
It's like a double-edged sword of what
people want to see.
501
00:37:29,020 --> 00:37:32,400
I've been doing the big wave tour for
20 years now
502
00:37:32,570 --> 00:37:35,070
and the everyone wants to win
ride of the year.
503
00:37:35,240 --> 00:37:40,080
The award you don't want to win
is the wipeout of the year.
504
00:37:40,160 --> 00:37:44,920
One of the hall of fame moments was
Andrew Cotton at Nazar�
505
00:37:45,080 --> 00:37:50,380
getting a little trophy that affirms
yours was the best wipeout of the year
506
00:37:50,460 --> 00:37:52,590
maybe took a little bit of the sting
out of it.
507
00:37:52,760 --> 00:37:57,010
Been trying to win an XXL Award
for my whole career
508
00:37:57,180 --> 00:38:00,810
and then I win one
for a bloody wipeout.
509
00:38:00,890 --> 00:38:02,350
The irony is that
510
00:38:02,520 --> 00:38:06,060
this is so typical.
511
00:38:07,480 --> 00:38:11,610
I don't think there's any question that
people love a good wipeout.
512
00:38:17,030 --> 00:38:18,450
Just from pure statistics,
513
00:38:18,530 --> 00:38:23,370
I just know how many views the wipeouts
get versus the biggest paddle wave.
514
00:38:23,450 --> 00:38:25,120
It's just not even close.
515
00:38:27,040 --> 00:38:31,550
As long as they come out of it okay,
it's just an epic fail.
516
00:38:32,460 --> 00:38:38,010
The five best wipeouts will be enjoyed
more than the one skillful ride
517
00:38:38,090 --> 00:38:41,260
because most people looking
at it don't know the difference.
518
00:38:50,810 --> 00:38:52,900
The waves are supposed
to be good tomorrow too, right?
519
00:38:53,070 --> 00:38:56,400
- Yeah.
- Are you going to surf tomorrow?
520
00:38:57,490 --> 00:39:00,370
My foot's not really ready
for this kind of stuff.
521
00:39:01,450 --> 00:39:05,950
It's not worth it to go out there and
hurt my foot and big old swell comes.
522
00:39:06,040 --> 00:39:07,960
That's true.
523
00:39:09,330 --> 00:39:13,170
- I miss you so much right now.
- I miss you.
524
00:39:13,800 --> 00:39:16,670
These are the times I just want to get
on a plane.
525
00:39:18,430 --> 00:39:21,550
Oahu, Hawaii
526
00:39:21,640 --> 00:39:24,470
I stay home sometimes
but it's all a blur.
527
00:39:24,560 --> 00:39:25,850
Nicole McNamara,
Garrett's wife/Manager
528
00:39:25,930 --> 00:39:27,480
Motherhood is a blur.
529
00:39:27,640 --> 00:39:29,640
I caught one.
530
00:39:29,810 --> 00:39:32,060
Garrett had a lot of work to do,
531
00:39:32,150 --> 00:39:36,780
so sometimes it's easier for Garrett to
go and just get the work done,
532
00:39:36,860 --> 00:39:40,360
then for the whole family to go
and us...
533
00:39:40,450 --> 00:39:42,950
Go do bubbles!
534
00:39:45,580 --> 00:39:48,120
Without my family around
there's a lot of time to think
535
00:39:49,000 --> 00:39:53,790
and so I'm thinking there
and ah I could do the contest.
536
00:39:58,210 --> 00:40:00,510
One wave is all I need, one big wave.
537
00:40:02,470 --> 00:40:07,140
A hundred footer comes, I'll be out
there and it will probably come to me.
538
00:40:07,220 --> 00:40:10,560
So I was thinking, yeah,
I think I want to surf it.
539
00:40:11,520 --> 00:40:14,150
Three days ago I went out there
540
00:40:14,980 --> 00:40:19,110
and after I drove around
and felt my foot and felt the chops
541
00:40:19,940 --> 00:40:22,860
and checked into my body and
542
00:40:23,570 --> 00:40:28,330
realized that if I fell
I probably wouldn't come home.
543
00:40:30,710 --> 00:40:33,420
And I was actually getting scared.
544
00:40:34,750 --> 00:40:37,050
Letting fear enter my mind.
545
00:40:38,510 --> 00:40:43,010
I have no business out here,
and I want nothing to do with this.
546
00:40:48,470 --> 00:40:53,020
Garrett's mentioned the fear. I don't
think it's so much fear of the waves
547
00:40:53,190 --> 00:40:55,980
but fear of the pain that he felt
with his shoulder.
548
00:40:56,060 --> 00:40:59,530
I don't think he's afraid of dying,
if you die you're not in pain.
549
00:40:59,690 --> 00:41:04,240
His is like just feeling that pain
again and depression.
550
00:41:09,040 --> 00:41:13,670
I do feel that it would have been
amazing to surf.
551
00:41:14,500 --> 00:41:17,710
But I didn't want to push it.
552
00:41:17,880 --> 00:41:20,090
I wasn't ready.
553
00:41:23,010 --> 00:41:27,470
Two Days Before Contest
554
00:41:27,550 --> 00:41:31,180
I've been on the walkie for a minute
or two here and there.
555
00:41:31,270 --> 00:41:34,020
Never really was a spotter.
556
00:41:34,100 --> 00:41:37,440
I've always been interested in doing it
557
00:41:37,520 --> 00:41:41,990
because I want to see what the people
are watching when they're spotting
558
00:41:42,070 --> 00:41:47,240
and how they're sharing with us what
they see and where they want us to go.
559
00:41:49,080 --> 00:41:53,790
I think we'll have a good practice with
Cotty. I think it will work out.
560
00:41:53,870 --> 00:41:57,250
It's gonna be interesting,
something new for me.
561
00:42:00,130 --> 00:42:02,550
Cotty, you guys out there?
562
00:42:02,710 --> 00:42:07,050
Yeah just getting out just getting up
to the lineup. How's it looking?
563
00:42:07,140 --> 00:42:11,510
Do you want to wait for the sets or
just go for anything?
564
00:42:11,600 --> 00:42:14,680
I think at the moment we are happy
to wait for some sets.
565
00:42:14,770 --> 00:42:17,100
It just feels different trying to
566
00:42:18,900 --> 00:42:20,770
see which way they should go for.
567
00:42:20,940 --> 00:42:22,570
This peak here?
568
00:42:25,030 --> 00:42:27,700
I can't see where you guys are.
569
00:42:27,860 --> 00:42:30,990
Second third peak,
570
00:42:32,950 --> 00:42:34,950
Shit wait, wait, wait.
571
00:42:37,500 --> 00:42:40,960
Definitely some waves on the outside.
Hang tight right where you are.
572
00:42:41,130 --> 00:42:45,920
Second beat, second beat, run over
there, go get it, go get it, go, go.
573
00:42:46,590 --> 00:42:49,340
He's gone, he's going, he's going.
574
00:42:56,230 --> 00:42:59,850
He made it, holy shit, amazing.
575
00:43:02,770 --> 00:43:04,530
Wow that was a heat winner.
576
00:43:06,110 --> 00:43:10,490
This is gonna be the greatest show in
surfing. There's no doubt about it.
577
00:43:12,990 --> 00:43:17,330
Yeah boys, you guys are already here.
That was too fast.
578
00:43:17,500 --> 00:43:20,080
I thought it was gonna eat you. Yeah.
579
00:43:20,170 --> 00:43:23,840
You cranked it so hard, the whitewater
was coming, I was like oh, he's done.
580
00:43:23,920 --> 00:43:27,760
I was about to say, down, down.
And then...
581
00:43:27,840 --> 00:43:31,930
To have Garrett in your corner, like,
it's a dream isn't it?
582
00:43:32,010 --> 00:43:34,810
Well if someone said to me like,
10 years ago.
583
00:43:34,890 --> 00:43:38,430
Oh you know you're gonna be in the
Duracell Nazar� Challenge
584
00:43:38,520 --> 00:43:40,980
and Garrett's going to be on the radio
calling the shots.
585
00:43:41,060 --> 00:43:45,400
I never, ever in a million years
I would think that it's possible.
586
00:43:45,570 --> 00:43:46,900
Garrett was just...
587
00:43:47,990 --> 00:43:53,240
someone you saw
in magazines and movies.
588
00:43:55,990 --> 00:43:59,580
Not somebody who Facetimes you
at 6:00 in the morning.
589
00:44:03,630 --> 00:44:05,800
- Hello. Hey!
- Hey.
590
00:44:10,970 --> 00:44:12,340
Hi there!
591
00:44:12,430 --> 00:44:16,010
- Did it get smaller?
- No, it's good sized.
592
00:44:16,100 --> 00:44:20,350
There's gonna be some good waves
and it was really beautiful today.
593
00:44:20,430 --> 00:44:23,060
Guess what I got a taste of today?
594
00:44:23,150 --> 00:44:25,570
I have so much more
595
00:44:25,730 --> 00:44:31,900
understanding and I guess I should say
respect for spotting.
596
00:44:34,780 --> 00:44:37,450
Because I spotted today on the cliff
for practice.
597
00:44:38,950 --> 00:44:41,290
It's hard to tell
which wave's gonna be the wave.
598
00:44:41,460 --> 00:44:42,580
Yeah it's really hard.
599
00:44:42,670 --> 00:44:47,960
As soon as they came I scored them
the sickest wave right out the gate
600
00:44:48,050 --> 00:44:49,380
and it worked perfect.
601
00:44:49,460 --> 00:44:53,130
And then they got another good one
and then it was tough.
602
00:44:59,560 --> 00:45:01,980
You guys gotta win this thing.
603
00:45:02,060 --> 00:45:04,480
Yeah I know.
Well we're set, aren't we?
604
00:45:14,700 --> 00:45:17,870
Oh it's nice and warm in here,
it's so cold.
605
00:45:17,950 --> 00:45:22,960
Thank you so much for bringing this.
Sorry to put that on you.
606
00:45:24,000 --> 00:45:25,210
Good to see you.
607
00:45:25,370 --> 00:45:29,550
- So you guys have a meeting at Linos?
- Yeah, yeah.
608
00:45:29,630 --> 00:45:32,550
- What kind of a meeting?
- Safety and then...
609
00:45:32,720 --> 00:45:37,850
What is the safety plan? Did they
have one ski delegated to each team?
610
00:45:38,600 --> 00:45:41,350
Some people weren't happy.
There was only like
611
00:45:41,430 --> 00:45:46,270
2 or 3 really good
safety guides out of the 5.
612
00:45:47,810 --> 00:45:49,940
That doesn't seem good at all.
613
00:45:50,110 --> 00:45:54,990
Those safety skis are gonna be on the
beach so fast when they lose their ski.
614
00:45:55,070 --> 00:45:58,740
- And you're happy with that?
- No, but what can you do really.
615
00:45:58,820 --> 00:46:03,750
I think it's gonna be as safe
as it can be, you know?
616
00:46:07,170 --> 00:46:11,170
- Let me call Bill.
- Alright, thanks very much.
617
00:46:12,800 --> 00:46:17,260
It's just things can go wrong so quick.
You can have two skis down in a second.
618
00:46:17,340 --> 00:46:21,100
All of a sudden everyone's on two skis
and there's still three skis surfing.
619
00:46:24,230 --> 00:46:26,190
- Garrett?
- Bill.
620
00:46:26,350 --> 00:46:30,690
I was talking to Cotty about
the safety, it sounded really, really
621
00:46:30,770 --> 00:46:33,610
scary to me
what you guys got in place.
622
00:46:33,780 --> 00:46:35,440
We're about to have another meeting
on it,
623
00:46:35,530 --> 00:46:39,780
it's been basically an outgrowth
that we all talked about.
624
00:46:39,870 --> 00:46:44,370
It's the last meeting, if you want to
come and chime in, it's coming up.
625
00:46:44,450 --> 00:46:47,500
If I was in the event I would want
to... I would say more,
626
00:46:47,580 --> 00:46:52,380
but since I'm not, I don't really feel
like it's my place to say anything.
627
00:46:52,550 --> 00:46:55,970
Either join in or wait and see
whatever we come up with.
628
00:46:56,130 --> 00:46:58,430
- Alright, bye bye.
- Bye, bye.
629
00:46:59,840 --> 00:47:01,550
Garrett is like a lot of us,
630
00:47:01,720 --> 00:47:04,390
he'll be
a team player when it suits him,
631
00:47:04,470 --> 00:47:07,890
and he'll be an independent
when it suits him.
632
00:47:08,060 --> 00:47:11,270
And he and I and a lot of other people
have had times where
633
00:47:11,360 --> 00:47:13,940
we've clashed and it's gotten weird.
634
00:47:15,730 --> 00:47:19,450
His vision has not always matched
everyone else's.
635
00:47:19,530 --> 00:47:23,620
We are heading to the safety meeting
for the contest.
636
00:47:23,780 --> 00:47:28,580
This is gonna be super big, super
gnarly, it's got to be super safe.
637
00:47:38,260 --> 00:47:41,640
Cameras were not allowed
in the safety meeting.
638
00:47:41,720 --> 00:47:43,930
So I was concerned about the safety,
639
00:47:44,470 --> 00:47:49,850
and I show up at this meeting.
And they're not having a shadow follow.
640
00:47:50,020 --> 00:47:54,060
It wasn't mandatory for each team
to have a shadow.
641
00:47:54,730 --> 00:47:59,780
And I spoke very blunt
about what I felt.
642
00:47:59,950 --> 00:48:04,580
Without your backup safety,
it's very unsafe and good luck.
643
00:48:05,620 --> 00:48:07,580
Alemao Edilson Luis Da Assun�ao
WSL Nazar� Challenge Safety Driver
644
00:48:07,660 --> 00:48:13,920
I thought that the safety measures of
the WSL Nazar� Tow-in Challenge,
645
00:48:14,000 --> 00:48:17,880
I think that without a doubt, they were
646
00:48:18,800 --> 00:48:20,880
...the best possible measures.
647
00:48:20,970 --> 00:48:24,720
They had a very solid team.
648
00:48:25,260 --> 00:48:27,350
Garrett didn't agree.
649
00:48:27,930 --> 00:48:34,900
For me it was hard to interpret
Garrett's position in a negative way.
650
00:48:35,060 --> 00:48:38,070
Garrett has always been like that.
He always worries.
651
00:48:38,150 --> 00:48:41,360
It's not the first time.
It's not just because the WSL event.
652
00:48:47,080 --> 00:48:50,540
Because he knows the importance
and the difficulty of being
653
00:48:50,620 --> 00:48:53,290
a safety driver in Nazar�.
654
00:48:54,630 --> 00:48:58,210
It was important that you have
veterans like Garrett McNamara
655
00:48:58,300 --> 00:49:02,470
who are pushing the safety side,
especially in competition.
656
00:49:02,550 --> 00:49:07,600
Because it's easy to get clouded in
the fog of competitive surfing
657
00:49:08,180 --> 00:49:12,680
and you forget about the basics
and the stuff that's most important.
658
00:49:12,770 --> 00:49:17,770
A lot of preparation went into having
a safety plan in place for that event.
659
00:49:17,860 --> 00:49:21,740
A lot of really qualified people are
working on it.
660
00:49:21,900 --> 00:49:26,280
We had 15 jet skis dedicated to rescue.
661
00:49:26,870 --> 00:49:30,200
If everyone knows what they're doing
and sticks to their assignment,
662
00:49:30,290 --> 00:49:34,080
it provides a pretty good safety net
for everyone.
663
00:49:35,750 --> 00:49:40,550
Hopefully they'll understand
what I was sharing with them,
664
00:49:41,760 --> 00:49:45,840
I really hope the best for everybody.
I hope everybody comes home.
665
00:49:57,150 --> 00:50:00,150
February 11, 2020
Morning of Nazar� Tow Challenge
666
00:50:00,980 --> 00:50:03,530
For the Nazar� tow surfing challenge
667
00:50:03,690 --> 00:50:07,200
every important big wave surfer
from Brazil,
668
00:50:07,360 --> 00:50:10,870
from Hawaii, California, whatever.
669
00:50:11,030 --> 00:50:12,950
Everyone's there.
670
00:50:15,160 --> 00:50:20,000
It's an honor to surf the tow challenge
representing Brazil.
671
00:50:20,090 --> 00:50:21,130
To me,
672
00:50:21,210 --> 00:50:26,720
it's priceless to be able to put on
a jersey with your country's colors.
673
00:50:27,550 --> 00:50:31,260
To see this place,
have a professional towing contest.
674
00:50:31,350 --> 00:50:35,350
This is something maybe I dreamed
about, I'm not even sure.
675
00:50:35,430 --> 00:50:40,560
But I'm very proud that we have myself
and Justine at the level that I think
676
00:50:40,650 --> 00:50:43,400
we'll do something and
we'll catch waves
677
00:50:43,480 --> 00:50:47,400
and we'll represent and we'll put on
a show hopefully.
678
00:50:47,570 --> 00:50:49,740
It's quite a unique spectacle.
679
00:50:50,910 --> 00:50:54,910
And whenever we run an event
680
00:50:55,080 --> 00:50:57,160
the world has its eyes on us.
681
00:50:58,710 --> 00:51:03,500
It's amazing in two years how excited
people have gotten over this wave.
682
00:51:03,590 --> 00:51:06,760
You're gonna see thousands of people
covering the cliffs.
683
00:51:06,920 --> 00:51:09,760
It's just like you're going to
the Super Bowl of surfing.
684
00:51:10,890 --> 00:51:14,470
Blessed with great traditions
and a big swell in the water.
685
00:51:14,560 --> 00:51:17,230
Garrett is in the studio alongside me.
686
00:51:17,310 --> 00:51:19,980
Garrett McNamara,
how are you feeling about today?
687
00:51:20,060 --> 00:51:24,270
I'm excited. I can't wait to see these
guys out there giving it their best
688
00:51:24,360 --> 00:51:25,980
and it's gonna be a great show.
689
00:51:26,070 --> 00:51:28,570
We are expecting
some epic performances.
690
00:51:28,650 --> 00:51:31,740
Forty or fifty of the world's best big
wave surfers all pushing the limits.
691
00:51:31,910 --> 00:51:34,240
This is gonna be awesome.
692
00:51:34,410 --> 00:51:38,660
There are the teams. You look down
towards Chianca and Lenny,
693
00:51:38,830 --> 00:51:42,830
a lot of buzz, a lot of hype, those
guys have taken tow to the next level.
694
00:51:43,000 --> 00:51:45,130
Those are gonna be the two standouts.
695
00:51:46,090 --> 00:51:49,720
These guys are gonna bring a whole
different look to riding big waves.
696
00:51:49,800 --> 00:51:51,970
Yeah they're definitely a force to be
reckoned with.
697
00:51:52,140 --> 00:51:55,350
Every time I do a competition, I want
to get the best waves of my life.
698
00:51:55,510 --> 00:51:57,600
And if those are the best waves
of my life,
699
00:51:57,680 --> 00:52:00,350
than they should win the competition.
700
00:52:01,020 --> 00:52:04,440
Not many people have spent more time
out here than Andrew Cotton.
701
00:52:04,520 --> 00:52:06,900
How do you fancy their chances?
702
00:52:06,980 --> 00:52:10,360
Everybody loves Cotty.
He's hungry and he wants it.
703
00:52:10,450 --> 00:52:13,700
I'm really excited to see them get
action in their heat.
704
00:52:14,990 --> 00:52:19,080
This is it. If I'm gonna do it,
I'm gonna be in it to win it.
705
00:52:19,160 --> 00:52:21,710
I was just super hyped up
from the event.
706
00:52:21,870 --> 00:52:25,790
The big wave surf competition.
It could be life-changing.
707
00:52:26,630 --> 00:52:29,550
Everyone wants the same thing,
708
00:52:29,710 --> 00:52:33,890
that wave that's gonna make a trip
and change your life.
62693
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