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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:01,680 --> 00:00:05,559 Can there be a country more shrouded in mystery and fear 2 00:00:05,560 --> 00:00:06,800 than North Korea? 3 00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:13,679 It's a brutal dictatorship. Many say it's intent on nuclear war. 4 00:00:13,680 --> 00:00:17,880 A dystopian land of military parades, repression 5 00:00:17,881 --> 00:00:20,720 and barbaric prison camps. 6 00:00:20,721 --> 00:00:24,439 But I've been given an unprecedented opportunity 7 00:00:24,440 --> 00:00:27,440 to go beyond the politics, 8 00:00:27,441 --> 00:00:32,240 and visit the country 25 million people call home... 9 00:00:32,241 --> 00:00:35,319 CHEERING 10 00:00:35,320 --> 00:00:39,319 ..to travel 1,300 miles, across a land of colourful cities... 11 00:00:39,320 --> 00:00:41,480 Wow! 12 00:00:41,481 --> 00:00:43,680 ..and epic landscapes. 13 00:00:43,681 --> 00:00:45,960 The Rockies or North Korea. Take your pick. 14 00:00:47,400 --> 00:00:50,400 To understand the so-called hermit kingdom... 15 00:00:52,360 --> 00:00:54,520 ..I want to engage with its people... 16 00:00:54,521 --> 00:00:57,759 My name is Michael. Michael Palin. 17 00:00:57,760 --> 00:01:01,159 ..at a unique time in the country's history. 18 00:01:01,160 --> 00:01:06,479 There may be a change in relations between your side and America. 19 00:01:06,480 --> 00:01:09,759 Filming under supervision, I'll need to tread carefully. 20 00:01:09,760 --> 00:01:13,799 A good leader should be able to deal with criticism. 21 00:01:13,800 --> 00:01:18,040 That's where we are so different from you. 22 00:01:18,041 --> 00:01:22,440 But this will turn out to be the most revealing journey of my life. 23 00:01:29,000 --> 00:01:30,679 CAR HORN HONKS 24 00:01:30,680 --> 00:01:33,320 My journey begins in Beijing. 25 00:01:33,321 --> 00:01:37,319 China is one of North Korea's few allies in the world. 26 00:01:37,320 --> 00:01:39,039 And more importantly for me, 27 00:01:39,040 --> 00:01:41,920 it's the place where you can catch an overnight train 28 00:01:41,921 --> 00:01:44,720 to its capital, Pyongyang. 29 00:01:44,721 --> 00:01:47,080 Now, I have to find K... 30 00:01:47,081 --> 00:01:50,000 K27 is the platform. 31 00:01:50,001 --> 00:01:51,360 Ah, there we are! I see it. 32 00:01:54,040 --> 00:01:56,760 Two, four, five, six, seven... 33 00:01:58,800 --> 00:02:00,320 Two must be down there. 34 00:02:01,600 --> 00:02:03,120 We've lost platform two. 35 00:02:04,880 --> 00:02:07,760 Let's find another one like it. 36 00:02:07,761 --> 00:02:10,120 I'll just follow everyone, I think. 37 00:02:10,121 --> 00:02:12,840 I presume they're all getting the same train. 38 00:02:12,841 --> 00:02:15,959 Most of my fellow passengers are Chinese, 39 00:02:15,960 --> 00:02:21,239 and are travelling to Dandong, a city on the border with North Korea. 40 00:02:21,240 --> 00:02:22,759 The train is down here now. 41 00:02:22,760 --> 00:02:27,000 It was two, it was four. It's now six. 42 00:02:27,001 --> 00:02:30,119 And coaches 1 to 16... 43 00:02:30,120 --> 00:02:32,880 Oh, blimey! 44 00:02:32,881 --> 00:02:34,600 There we are. Number 11. 45 00:02:40,160 --> 00:02:42,800 HE MUTTERS TO SELF 46 00:02:42,801 --> 00:02:46,359 OK. HE GROANS 47 00:02:46,360 --> 00:02:47,360 Ah! 48 00:02:49,560 --> 00:02:50,560 Phew! 49 00:02:52,280 --> 00:02:56,520 Well, that was quite an ordeal, actually getting onto the train. 50 00:03:05,760 --> 00:03:08,600 We're on the move, and dead on time. 51 00:03:10,920 --> 00:03:13,360 I've even got a spittoon. 52 00:03:13,361 --> 00:03:15,880 HE CHUCKLES 53 00:03:15,881 --> 00:03:17,600 They never think of that on Virgin. 54 00:03:22,160 --> 00:03:26,320 This train will take me 500 miles to the North Korean border. 55 00:03:27,560 --> 00:03:29,479 After a quick change of train, 56 00:03:29,480 --> 00:03:32,720 I'll then travel a further 200 miles to Pyongyang. 57 00:03:35,520 --> 00:03:39,039 I'm about to enter a country that has essentially been cut off 58 00:03:39,040 --> 00:03:42,320 from the outside world for 70 years. 59 00:03:44,440 --> 00:03:47,759 It's quite different going to North Korea, I think, 60 00:03:47,760 --> 00:03:49,839 than anywhere else I've been. 61 00:03:49,840 --> 00:03:52,520 I've never been to one country where there's been quite so much of 62 00:03:52,521 --> 00:03:54,479 a sort of blackout on information. 63 00:03:54,480 --> 00:04:00,359 So, what I hope is that, although it will be controlled - I know that, 64 00:04:00,360 --> 00:04:03,160 all our movements and all that - that we'll get beyond that 65 00:04:03,161 --> 00:04:10,240 and actually get to know, or meet or just observe the people themselves, 66 00:04:10,241 --> 00:04:14,480 the North Koreans who live there and work there and play there 67 00:04:14,481 --> 00:04:16,920 and bring up their children there and go to school there. 68 00:04:16,921 --> 00:04:21,160 You know, if we can do that, if I can get beyond the politics, 69 00:04:21,161 --> 00:04:26,000 beyond - if you like - a very strict regime, I want to find, hopefully, 70 00:04:26,001 --> 00:04:29,400 the people who live this see us as fellow human beings. 71 00:04:30,480 --> 00:04:33,599 Cos that's the point of travelling and going around the world. 72 00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:37,040 It's to see that people, actually, are much closer to us than we think. 73 00:04:44,160 --> 00:04:45,920 After a bumpy night... 74 00:04:47,720 --> 00:04:50,080 ..the train pulls into Dandong Station. 75 00:04:53,960 --> 00:04:56,840 We're now only a few hundred metres from the border. 76 00:04:59,880 --> 00:05:04,760 After clearing Chinese customs, it's time to board the North Korean train 77 00:05:04,761 --> 00:05:06,760 that will take me to Pyongyang. 78 00:05:07,920 --> 00:05:12,200 Right, a lot of merchandise being loaded on down there. 79 00:05:12,201 --> 00:05:14,840 TRAIN HORN 80 00:05:14,840 --> 00:05:15,840 I think we're going. 81 00:05:17,520 --> 00:05:18,680 This is it. 82 00:05:19,880 --> 00:05:25,679 The Sino-Korea Friendship Bridge is all that separates us from the DPRK, 83 00:05:25,680 --> 00:05:28,160 the Democratic People's Republic of Korea. 84 00:05:31,920 --> 00:05:34,120 As we cross the Yalu River, 85 00:05:34,121 --> 00:05:37,680 a stark difference between these two countries becomes clear. 86 00:05:40,160 --> 00:05:41,480 I mean, you can just see... 87 00:05:43,040 --> 00:05:45,800 ..the Chinese shores full of tower blocks. 88 00:05:48,360 --> 00:05:51,759 So it is an extraordinary... That contrast is amazing - 89 00:05:51,760 --> 00:05:55,679 the sort of high-rise Chinese northern shore, 90 00:05:55,680 --> 00:05:57,120 and the southern shore. 91 00:06:00,800 --> 00:06:04,240 It's a completely different feel to it - much more open, low-rise. 92 00:06:06,040 --> 00:06:08,920 I suppose now, we are more than halfway across the river, 93 00:06:08,921 --> 00:06:11,360 so we're in North Korea. 94 00:06:18,520 --> 00:06:21,719 Immediately, everything looks different. 95 00:06:21,720 --> 00:06:24,320 It's as if we've stepped back in time. 96 00:06:25,480 --> 00:06:26,560 High security. 97 00:06:36,200 --> 00:06:40,680 North Korean military guards on the platform of Sinuiju Station 98 00:06:40,681 --> 00:06:44,920 remind me that I'm entering a country under totalitarian rule. 99 00:06:46,840 --> 00:06:49,000 And as they prepare to board the train, 100 00:06:49,001 --> 00:06:51,200 to check our visas and passports, 101 00:06:51,201 --> 00:06:54,919 we get our first taste of North Korean authority. 102 00:06:54,920 --> 00:06:57,040 We're told to turn off the camera. 103 00:07:00,360 --> 00:07:03,240 One hour later, I'm allowed onto the platform. 104 00:07:04,560 --> 00:07:07,320 A lot of papers had to be gone through and signed. 105 00:07:07,321 --> 00:07:10,839 One man would come in and take down all the details. 106 00:07:10,840 --> 00:07:13,160 People in very impressive big cats would come in 107 00:07:13,161 --> 00:07:15,159 and ask for exactly the same details. 108 00:07:15,160 --> 00:07:19,159 Questions I didn't expect, like, "Did I have a Bible with me?" 109 00:07:19,160 --> 00:07:22,120 And normally, you'd say, "Oh, yes, absolutely. I'm a good Christian," 110 00:07:22,121 --> 00:07:23,799 but, no, that's the wrong answer here. 111 00:07:23,800 --> 00:07:27,239 If you say, "I have a Bible," they'd want to know about that. 112 00:07:27,240 --> 00:07:29,560 So, you know, it's a little unsettling. 113 00:07:29,561 --> 00:07:32,480 But it's intriguing at the same time. 114 00:07:32,481 --> 00:07:36,359 I mean, they have my passport, so I can't leave. 115 00:07:36,360 --> 00:07:38,920 I've just been kept slightly unsettled, 116 00:07:38,921 --> 00:07:41,320 and this is probably deliberate. 117 00:07:43,200 --> 00:07:47,920 From now on, my fate lies in the hands of the North Koreans. 118 00:07:47,921 --> 00:07:52,080 But after a tense wait, we're allowed on our way to Pyongyang. 119 00:08:02,760 --> 00:08:07,400 Some people simply just washing their bicycles on the river. 120 00:08:07,401 --> 00:08:10,440 And along the side here, by the railway line, 121 00:08:10,441 --> 00:08:13,759 everywhere seems sort of cultivated. People have... 122 00:08:13,760 --> 00:08:16,160 It looks like very inhospitable ground has been dug, 123 00:08:16,161 --> 00:08:17,480 and something has been planted. 124 00:08:18,880 --> 00:08:22,119 With no Internet or international phone signal, 125 00:08:22,120 --> 00:08:26,360 I'm now effectively cut off from the outside world. 126 00:08:26,361 --> 00:08:30,000 And the world I've entered seems rather strange. 127 00:08:31,720 --> 00:08:38,680 I haven't seen a car in all this development, or bicycles. 128 00:08:38,681 --> 00:08:42,600 There we are, a road. Empty - completely empty of cars. 129 00:08:44,280 --> 00:08:48,200 It all seems of a very different time. 130 00:08:49,720 --> 00:08:54,000 Korea was divided in 1945 after the Second World War, 131 00:08:54,001 --> 00:08:57,839 and has been largely governed on Communist principles ever since. 132 00:08:57,840 --> 00:08:59,599 Closed off from the outside world, 133 00:08:59,600 --> 00:09:02,160 and now under strict international sanctions, 134 00:09:02,161 --> 00:09:04,400 it's seen little economic development. 135 00:09:06,880 --> 00:09:08,919 When it comes to the dining car, 136 00:09:08,920 --> 00:09:12,959 it looks like nothing has changed since the 1950s. 137 00:09:12,960 --> 00:09:16,239 Table for one. Lunch, please. 138 00:09:16,240 --> 00:09:17,719 Thank you. Thank you. 139 00:09:17,720 --> 00:09:20,000 HE SPEAKS KOREAN 140 00:09:21,880 --> 00:09:24,280 Ah, good! That's the first word I've used. 141 00:09:26,080 --> 00:09:29,599 Hello. 142 00:09:29,600 --> 00:09:33,039 HE SPEAKS KOREAN I've said it twice now, 143 00:09:33,040 --> 00:09:37,240 and look what I've got as a result of speaking Korean. 144 00:09:37,241 --> 00:09:38,440 It's beautiful, isn't it? 145 00:09:39,760 --> 00:09:42,080 And I think this must be... It's the kimchi. 146 00:09:43,160 --> 00:09:46,160 Made from fermented cabbage and chillies, 147 00:09:46,161 --> 00:09:49,999 kimchi is a staple of the North Korean diet. 148 00:09:50,000 --> 00:09:51,920 Wow! It's quite fierce. 149 00:09:53,120 --> 00:09:55,720 After the kimchi, I think you'd need something that sort of 150 00:09:55,721 --> 00:09:56,880 puts out the fire. 151 00:10:00,400 --> 00:10:06,760 There's a sort of video playing, and there's mainly missiles on it. 152 00:10:06,761 --> 00:10:11,280 Various shots of the great leaders, and applause. 153 00:10:12,440 --> 00:10:15,960 Lunch, with a side order of North Korean propaganda. 154 00:10:19,680 --> 00:10:25,000 Eventually, after six long hours, we trundle into Pyongyang. 155 00:10:37,040 --> 00:10:40,959 I'm told this is where I'll be met by the two guides who will be 156 00:10:40,960 --> 00:10:46,199 making sure that I don't step out of line for the next two weeks. 157 00:10:46,200 --> 00:10:49,080 Hello. Pleased to meet you. Are you Mr Michael Palin from Britain? 158 00:10:49,081 --> 00:10:51,640 I am, Michael Palin, yes, yes. Nice to meet you. 159 00:10:51,641 --> 00:10:54,839 Nice to meet you! Hello! How are you? Nice to meet you. 160 00:10:54,840 --> 00:10:57,080 Annyeong hashimnikka. Annyeong hashimnikka! 161 00:10:57,081 --> 00:10:59,680 I've been learning that on the train. 162 00:10:59,681 --> 00:11:02,879 You're a good student. Thank you very much. 163 00:11:02,880 --> 00:11:05,520 Hardly the threatening minders I was expecting. 164 00:11:09,080 --> 00:11:10,999 My name is Lee Soo-young. 165 00:11:11,000 --> 00:11:14,679 Lee is surname... Yeah? ..and Soo-young is given name... OK. 166 00:11:14,680 --> 00:11:17,999 ..so you can call me either way. What would you prefer to be called? 167 00:11:18,000 --> 00:11:21,359 If you want to be more friendly, then Soo-young. Soo-young. 168 00:11:21,360 --> 00:11:24,839 I'll be more friendly, with your approval. Soo-young... 169 00:11:24,840 --> 00:11:29,800 Lee Kyung-chul. Ah! Soo-young and... Kyung-chul. Kyung-chul, OK. 170 00:11:29,801 --> 00:11:33,560 Michael, just Michael. Yeah, yeah! Michael. Yeah, yes. 171 00:11:43,040 --> 00:11:47,640 As we drive to the hotel, I find it hard to believe I'm finally here. 172 00:11:51,080 --> 00:11:54,559 I know that there'll be restrictions on what I see, 173 00:11:54,560 --> 00:11:58,239 but despite this, I'm hoping Pyongyang will give me a greater 174 00:11:58,240 --> 00:12:01,679 understanding of a country once described as being on 175 00:12:01,680 --> 00:12:03,320 "the axis of evil". 176 00:12:07,240 --> 00:12:08,400 MUSIC ECHOING 177 00:12:14,360 --> 00:12:17,000 My first morning in Pyongyang - 178 00:12:17,001 --> 00:12:19,920 and the world's most unusual wake-up call. 179 00:12:23,640 --> 00:12:26,080 I first heard this, I think, at five o'clock this morning. 180 00:12:27,360 --> 00:12:30,519 It's like music emanates from the whole city. 181 00:12:30,520 --> 00:12:34,720 I don't know where it's coming from. No source of speakers. 182 00:12:34,721 --> 00:12:37,360 It's just this fusion of sound. 183 00:12:39,760 --> 00:12:42,080 It was quite menacing at five o'clock. 184 00:12:42,081 --> 00:12:47,199 Now it's... Sun's come out, it's just rather strange. 185 00:12:47,200 --> 00:12:49,040 Sounds vaguely Brian Eno. 186 00:12:50,440 --> 00:12:52,240 Oh, there he is. Hi, Brian! 187 00:12:53,680 --> 00:12:56,240 And the thing is that... 188 00:12:56,241 --> 00:13:00,640 The other sound, when you think of a city, is screaming sirens - 189 00:13:00,641 --> 00:13:04,679 you know, cars rushing around. None of that at all. 190 00:13:04,680 --> 00:13:06,440 So that's why this sound can really... 191 00:13:08,280 --> 00:13:10,199 You can't avoid it. HE LAUGHS 192 00:13:10,200 --> 00:13:12,320 I suppose that's the thing. You can't avoid it. 193 00:13:13,600 --> 00:13:15,279 It's just the sound of Pyongyang, 194 00:13:15,280 --> 00:13:19,880 which is not the sound of any other city I've ever been in, in my life. 195 00:13:19,881 --> 00:13:23,239 The track is called Where Are You, Dear General? - 196 00:13:23,240 --> 00:13:27,000 referring to the first leader of the DPRK, Kim Il-sung. 197 00:13:29,640 --> 00:13:33,039 And after breakfast, it's time to head out for my first appointment 198 00:13:33,040 --> 00:13:36,280 of the day with the great leaders themselves. 199 00:13:37,440 --> 00:13:40,080 While our growing group of minders are nervous about us 200 00:13:40,081 --> 00:13:41,559 filming on the streets, 201 00:13:41,560 --> 00:13:45,559 it gives me my first sense of daily life in Pyongyang. 202 00:13:45,560 --> 00:13:48,120 And it's all very normal. 203 00:13:48,121 --> 00:13:50,240 But I do notice one significant difference. 204 00:13:51,960 --> 00:13:54,280 That's interesting. That's the first poster I've seen - 205 00:13:54,281 --> 00:13:56,560 a kind of propagandist poster. 206 00:13:56,561 --> 00:13:58,480 All clutching, clutching their weapons. 207 00:13:59,720 --> 00:14:01,239 Cos there's no advertising here, 208 00:14:01,240 --> 00:14:04,520 you don't see any sort of consumer goods. Just ideas. 209 00:14:10,800 --> 00:14:11,800 Hello. 210 00:14:18,880 --> 00:14:23,320 The Pyongyang Metro system was built in the 1970s, 211 00:14:23,321 --> 00:14:25,880 but its grandeur is from a different age. 212 00:14:26,960 --> 00:14:29,520 It's quite something. That's quite something. 213 00:14:39,000 --> 00:14:41,680 This view of urban life is very different to what I saw 214 00:14:41,681 --> 00:14:45,079 from the train yesterday, possibly because Pyongyang 215 00:14:45,080 --> 00:14:48,879 is much more prosperous than the rest of the country. 216 00:14:48,880 --> 00:14:52,399 You could just stay here, really. Why bother to catch a train? 217 00:14:52,400 --> 00:14:54,760 You can watch the world go by. 218 00:14:54,761 --> 00:14:58,759 I've arrived in the DPRK at an historic time. 219 00:14:58,760 --> 00:15:02,599 State-controlled newspapers are covered with photos of a meeting 220 00:15:02,600 --> 00:15:05,640 between the current leaders of North and South Korea - 221 00:15:05,641 --> 00:15:08,600 one that heralds new hope for peace. 222 00:15:08,601 --> 00:15:11,160 KIDS SPEAK KOREAN 223 00:15:13,280 --> 00:15:16,439 Ever since Korea was divided in 1945, 224 00:15:16,440 --> 00:15:20,159 North Korea has been ruled by the Kim family. 225 00:15:20,160 --> 00:15:21,760 Their images are everywhere. 226 00:15:24,400 --> 00:15:28,000 And everyone seems to be wearing badges featuring their faces. 227 00:15:30,920 --> 00:15:34,079 I've been told that to understand North Korea, 228 00:15:34,080 --> 00:15:36,520 you need to understand the role of the leaders. 229 00:15:39,520 --> 00:15:42,160 So I'm heading to the Mansudae Grand Monument... 230 00:15:43,360 --> 00:15:46,400 ..one of the most sacred places in the whole country. 231 00:15:51,160 --> 00:15:54,559 These 22-metre tall bronze statues 232 00:15:54,560 --> 00:15:57,680 depict the first two leaders of North Korea. 233 00:16:01,800 --> 00:16:05,079 Kim Il-sung on the left was supported by the Russians, 234 00:16:05,080 --> 00:16:09,280 to lead the newly formed country in 1945. 235 00:16:09,281 --> 00:16:12,080 After he died, his son, Kim Jong-il, 236 00:16:12,081 --> 00:16:15,639 took over until his death seven years ago, 237 00:16:15,640 --> 00:16:18,800 leaving his son, Kim Jong-un, as the current leader. 238 00:16:21,160 --> 00:16:25,400 Well, there they are - the biggest leaders I've ever seen. 239 00:16:25,401 --> 00:16:29,439 And there's something about the size and the scale, 240 00:16:29,440 --> 00:16:31,640 which is, undoubtedly, incredibly impressive, 241 00:16:31,641 --> 00:16:35,399 and yet, there are very few statues to great leaders around the world 242 00:16:35,400 --> 00:16:38,280 where they're smiling, they're looking accessible. 243 00:16:38,281 --> 00:16:40,840 They've got this specs on, they've got their gear on, 244 00:16:40,841 --> 00:16:43,040 they're sort of embracing the country. 245 00:16:43,041 --> 00:16:47,039 I think that's what... Although it seems very grand and overpowering, 246 00:16:47,040 --> 00:16:48,839 they're actually trying to show the love, 247 00:16:48,840 --> 00:16:51,320 embrace the love of the whole country - 248 00:16:51,321 --> 00:16:55,920 by smiling and making themselves like the benign fathers, 249 00:16:55,921 --> 00:16:59,239 rather than the sort of stern rulers. 250 00:16:59,240 --> 00:17:00,680 That's how I read it, anyway, but... 251 00:17:02,000 --> 00:17:03,240 ..judge for yourself. 252 00:17:04,720 --> 00:17:08,399 In the West, the Kim dynasty is known as a brutal dictatorship, 253 00:17:08,400 --> 00:17:11,320 but here, the great leaders cannot be criticised. 254 00:17:11,321 --> 00:17:13,280 So I've been warned to tread carefully. 255 00:17:14,560 --> 00:17:19,719 I notice that you wear the badge - the party badge there - 256 00:17:19,720 --> 00:17:22,839 with the two leaders on. Yes. 257 00:17:22,840 --> 00:17:27,840 So, we say, our Korean nation is Kim Il-sung, Kim Jong-il's nation, 258 00:17:27,841 --> 00:17:30,160 and we are all members of the nation. 259 00:17:30,161 --> 00:17:31,960 So it's the symbol of that. And it's... 260 00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:39,400 The reason why we have them on our left-hand side is that it's... 261 00:17:40,640 --> 00:17:43,360 Where your heart is? Yeah, yeah. Yes, yes. 262 00:17:43,361 --> 00:17:47,119 Is it significant that they're smiling? 263 00:17:47,120 --> 00:17:50,599 Is that important, that they're seen to be smiling? 264 00:17:50,600 --> 00:17:55,999 Yeah. So, when you are smiling, they look very happy and very alive. 265 00:17:56,000 --> 00:18:00,600 So we Korean people think that they are still alive. 266 00:18:00,601 --> 00:18:03,879 They are alive in our hearts, even though they've passed away. 267 00:18:03,880 --> 00:18:09,479 They are more like fathers than just political leaders. 268 00:18:09,480 --> 00:18:11,880 We call it single-hearted unity. 269 00:18:11,881 --> 00:18:16,640 The popular masses are united around the leaders and the party, 270 00:18:16,641 --> 00:18:19,759 and with one will and one ideal. 271 00:18:19,760 --> 00:18:24,400 And presumably, when you're growing up, from fairly early on in school, 272 00:18:24,401 --> 00:18:28,800 you're learning about their work and what they represent? 273 00:18:28,801 --> 00:18:32,719 At school, of course, we learn what they have done. 274 00:18:32,720 --> 00:18:39,400 But we all have got our own outlook on the world. 275 00:18:39,401 --> 00:18:45,079 And so it's not like, what you call, you know, brainwashing? 276 00:18:45,080 --> 00:18:46,520 It's not like that. OK. 277 00:18:48,360 --> 00:18:53,160 We learn from our hearts that they have done really great things 278 00:18:53,161 --> 00:18:55,119 to all Korean people. 279 00:18:55,120 --> 00:18:58,999 The people who come here... I see people getting married. Mm-hm. 280 00:18:59,000 --> 00:19:00,400 How many times a year... 281 00:19:01,480 --> 00:19:04,959 ..should you come here? Is there a time everyone should come? 282 00:19:04,960 --> 00:19:07,160 Or... It's voluntary. 283 00:19:07,161 --> 00:19:11,480 It's open for everyone, and there is no, like... 284 00:19:12,920 --> 00:19:15,760 No-one tells us to do, what to do. 285 00:19:15,761 --> 00:19:18,839 "You should go there," or "You should go here." 286 00:19:18,840 --> 00:19:22,159 It's more, like, to our... 287 00:19:22,160 --> 00:19:25,000 Of our own volition. From your heart, OK. Yes. 288 00:19:25,001 --> 00:19:27,640 There are many more questions I'd like to ask, 289 00:19:27,641 --> 00:19:29,439 but now is not the time. 290 00:19:29,440 --> 00:19:33,040 It's made apparent by our minders that I've already crossed the line. 291 00:19:34,760 --> 00:19:37,800 North Korea claims to have no religion. 292 00:19:37,801 --> 00:19:40,560 But it's hard for me not to think that, for many people, 293 00:19:40,561 --> 00:19:42,720 the great leaders are filling that void. 294 00:19:44,160 --> 00:19:46,640 And in a country that has a widely reported 295 00:19:46,641 --> 00:19:48,840 appalling human rights record, 296 00:19:48,841 --> 00:19:52,439 I worry that they've put their faith in those who do not always act 297 00:19:52,440 --> 00:19:54,040 in their best interests. 298 00:19:57,920 --> 00:20:02,280 After lunch, it's a quick walk to the east side of the Taedong River, 299 00:20:02,281 --> 00:20:06,720 and a place that offers me the best view of the city, the Juche Tower. 300 00:20:09,360 --> 00:20:11,039 The tower? 301 00:20:11,040 --> 00:20:13,039 Annyeong hashimnikka. Annyeong hashimnikka. 302 00:20:13,040 --> 00:20:15,240 That's right, I'm learning. Annyeong hashimnikka. 303 00:20:15,241 --> 00:20:21,520 Annyeong...? Annyeong hashimnikka. Annyeong hashimnikka. Hm. 304 00:20:21,521 --> 00:20:24,480 Annyeong hashimnikka. Annyeong hashimnikka. 305 00:20:24,481 --> 00:20:27,320 Annyeong hashimnikka. Yes. Annyeong hashimnikka. 306 00:20:27,321 --> 00:20:32,919 Hashimnikka. Hashimnikka? Hashimnikka. Hashimnikka. Oh! 307 00:20:32,920 --> 00:20:36,399 Annyeong hashimnikka. Yes! Annyeong hashimnikka. Good! 308 00:20:36,400 --> 00:20:37,959 THEY LAUGH 309 00:20:37,960 --> 00:20:39,840 It's a good thing it's a high building! Yes! 310 00:20:41,920 --> 00:20:44,160 All that, just to say hello. 311 00:20:47,320 --> 00:20:49,440 OK. Please. Yes. 312 00:20:53,800 --> 00:20:54,800 Wow! 313 00:21:04,360 --> 00:21:09,160 The stunning view from this 170-metre tall tower 314 00:21:09,161 --> 00:21:13,320 gives me my first proper sense of the size and scale of Pyongyang. 315 00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:18,079 I shouldn't say "Wow," but that is the only thing you can say up here. 316 00:21:18,080 --> 00:21:19,999 It's astounding. 317 00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:23,880 The west side of the city is dominated by grand buildings... 318 00:21:24,920 --> 00:21:27,120 ..stadiums and new developments 319 00:21:27,121 --> 00:21:29,840 that look like something from a science fiction movie. 320 00:21:34,560 --> 00:21:39,999 The east is a sea of Soviet-style concrete apartment blocks. 321 00:21:40,000 --> 00:21:43,519 They used to be grey, but Kim Jong-il instructed 322 00:21:43,520 --> 00:21:46,560 that the buildings be painted in bright colours, 323 00:21:46,561 --> 00:21:48,400 transforming the skyline. 324 00:21:50,720 --> 00:21:53,520 One thing I do know is that Pyongyang was just bombed flat 325 00:21:53,521 --> 00:21:58,999 in 1953, during the Korean War, so what we are seeing here has - 326 00:21:59,000 --> 00:22:01,240 with, I think, the exception of one building - 327 00:22:01,241 --> 00:22:06,000 all been built in the last sort of 60 years. 328 00:22:06,001 --> 00:22:08,280 That's quite impressive. 329 00:22:08,281 --> 00:22:12,960 The name of the Juche Tower refers to Kim Il-sung's ruling ideology... 330 00:22:14,080 --> 00:22:18,640 ..one which has perpetuated the idea of self-reliance and isolation 331 00:22:18,641 --> 00:22:22,679 from the rest of the world for almost 70 years. 332 00:22:22,680 --> 00:22:26,119 Funny how cities all have a sort of name, a ring about them. 333 00:22:26,120 --> 00:22:29,040 And very often, countries are known by their cities. 334 00:22:29,041 --> 00:22:30,959 You know, Paris, France and all that. 335 00:22:30,960 --> 00:22:35,480 And this is Pyongyang, North Korea, which is a name I've known - 336 00:22:35,481 --> 00:22:39,720 a lot of us know - in always, slightly threatening context. 337 00:22:39,721 --> 00:22:43,199 This is Pyongyang. What comes out of here is vaguely sinister. 338 00:22:43,200 --> 00:22:45,680 What does it mean, a city's threatening, a city's sinister? 339 00:22:45,681 --> 00:22:47,280 A city's a city, and this... 340 00:22:50,440 --> 00:22:52,000 ..has its own grandeur in a way. 341 00:22:56,200 --> 00:22:59,120 Pyongyang also has a bizarre charm. 342 00:23:03,520 --> 00:23:08,240 And on my way back across the river, I find it hard not to be transfixed 343 00:23:08,241 --> 00:23:11,800 by the traffic police stationed at busy intersections. 344 00:23:15,960 --> 00:23:20,120 Their choreographed, robotic movements are strangely hypnotic. 345 00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:27,440 They also, I notice, all appear to be young women. 346 00:23:30,320 --> 00:23:34,480 There's a rumour that Marshal Kim Jong-un hand-picks them himself. 347 00:23:45,640 --> 00:23:48,400 It's Sunday... WHISTLE 348 00:23:48,401 --> 00:23:51,320 ..the one-day weekend in the DPRK. 349 00:23:54,120 --> 00:23:56,480 Volleyball, big thing here? 350 00:23:56,481 --> 00:23:59,759 Yes. Quite a big sport. Popular, yeah. Yeah. 351 00:23:59,760 --> 00:24:03,559 Soo-young and Kyung-chul are keen to show me what they would be doing 352 00:24:03,560 --> 00:24:06,440 if they weren't having to look after a British film crew. 353 00:24:08,920 --> 00:24:11,560 Have you ever shot a pistol? 354 00:24:11,561 --> 00:24:14,999 Well, not often, but I have, yeah. I've had a go. 355 00:24:15,000 --> 00:24:18,000 Shall we? OK. 356 00:24:18,001 --> 00:24:21,719 He's going to show me, first of all, what a hot shot he is, 357 00:24:21,720 --> 00:24:24,240 and why he has earned the name of 358 00:24:24,241 --> 00:24:28,079 the Wyatt Earp of the Korean Peninsula. 359 00:24:28,080 --> 00:24:29,640 Oh, good! Yeah, yeah, yeah! 360 00:24:34,320 --> 00:24:38,720 Oh! Yeah. I keep aiming at the yellow bit behind. 361 00:24:38,721 --> 00:24:40,400 I get that every time. 362 00:24:42,680 --> 00:24:44,479 Very close! 363 00:24:44,480 --> 00:24:45,480 Almost. 364 00:24:47,040 --> 00:24:49,960 Last one, OK? Cos I don't think I'm destined to... 365 00:24:51,000 --> 00:24:52,200 ..get one. 366 00:24:53,440 --> 00:24:55,079 Oh! Wow! 367 00:24:55,080 --> 00:24:57,360 Bravo! On camera or not? 368 00:24:57,361 --> 00:24:59,120 LAUGHTER 369 00:25:02,200 --> 00:25:05,799 To unwind after our efforts at the shooting range, 370 00:25:05,800 --> 00:25:09,080 we find ourselves somewhere I really wasn't expecting. 371 00:25:16,360 --> 00:25:18,760 A North Korean health spa. 372 00:25:21,040 --> 00:25:24,879 This is the state-run Changgwang Health Complex. 373 00:25:24,880 --> 00:25:27,760 It's about as far from prison camps and nuclear missiles 374 00:25:27,761 --> 00:25:28,920 as you can get... 375 00:25:32,200 --> 00:25:34,480 ..and includes a hair salon 376 00:25:34,481 --> 00:25:38,199 which has a rather prescriptive approach to hairstyles. 377 00:25:38,200 --> 00:25:42,119 Ah! These, I think, are the recommended haircuts. 378 00:25:42,120 --> 00:25:44,960 All the styles you can have here are up there. 379 00:25:46,360 --> 00:25:49,240 And these, actually, look remarkably similar. 380 00:25:49,241 --> 00:25:52,240 No, you know, mullets or ponytails 381 00:25:52,241 --> 00:25:56,440 or anything sort of disorderly like that. Very neat and tidy. 382 00:25:58,280 --> 00:26:02,880 Hello. Can you do a sort of massage, not haircut? 383 00:26:02,881 --> 00:26:05,440 No haircut, but massage, OK? 384 00:26:05,441 --> 00:26:07,199 Thank you. 385 00:26:07,200 --> 00:26:13,520 Ooh! Already, I feel the pressure slipping from my shoulders, 386 00:26:13,521 --> 00:26:19,320 down my back, and into this chair, which is vibrating slightly. 387 00:26:23,160 --> 00:26:24,680 That's just what I want. 388 00:26:32,440 --> 00:26:33,720 Hope it doesn't come off. 389 00:26:37,120 --> 00:26:40,880 Thank you. This is a relaxing end to a long day. 390 00:26:42,000 --> 00:26:43,040 Thank you very much. 391 00:26:46,080 --> 00:26:51,479 My hotel room gives me a rare moment away from prying eyes and ears. 392 00:26:51,480 --> 00:26:53,320 Well, at least, I hope it does. 393 00:26:54,760 --> 00:26:56,880 Filming isn't easy here. 394 00:26:59,800 --> 00:27:05,039 Everywhere we go, we're accompanied by an entourage of about five or six 395 00:27:05,040 --> 00:27:08,999 men and women in suits, 396 00:27:09,000 --> 00:27:11,920 who watch our every move and check everything we're seeing 397 00:27:11,921 --> 00:27:15,359 and everything we're doing and everything we're saying. 398 00:27:15,360 --> 00:27:18,919 But, you know, they do things completely differently here. 399 00:27:18,920 --> 00:27:21,120 That's the way it is. 400 00:27:21,121 --> 00:27:23,720 We can't just come blundering in and say, "We're from the West. 401 00:27:23,721 --> 00:27:25,479 "We want to see this, we want to see that." 402 00:27:25,480 --> 00:27:28,879 If you're going to learn anything at all, I think, about this country, 403 00:27:28,880 --> 00:27:31,960 you've got to prise the door open very, very gently. 404 00:27:34,080 --> 00:27:37,639 We need to keep their trust, and it's a slow process, 405 00:27:37,640 --> 00:27:40,999 but if we step out of line and we shoot things we shouldn't shoot, 406 00:27:41,000 --> 00:27:43,640 then the door will be slammed shut. That'll be the end of it. 407 00:27:43,641 --> 00:27:50,000 So it's really all about us trusting them and them trusting us. 408 00:27:50,001 --> 00:27:53,920 I mean, so far, it's working quite well, but we'll see in the end. 409 00:27:58,937 --> 00:28:03,857 Day two in Pyongyang, and it's time to go back to school. 410 00:28:03,858 --> 00:28:05,376 From a young age, 411 00:28:05,377 --> 00:28:08,536 children in North Korea are taught the revolutionary history 412 00:28:08,537 --> 00:28:12,216 of their country's battles against Japanese occupiers 413 00:28:12,217 --> 00:28:16,417 and American aggressors, and the heroic deeds of the great leaders. 414 00:28:16,418 --> 00:28:20,216 THEY SPEAK KOREAN 415 00:28:20,217 --> 00:28:24,737 What is more surprising is that learning English is also compulsory. 416 00:28:25,817 --> 00:28:27,097 Annyeong hashimnikka! 417 00:28:28,977 --> 00:28:31,097 ALL: Hello! 418 00:28:32,697 --> 00:28:35,697 My name is Michael, Michael Palin. 419 00:28:35,698 --> 00:28:39,296 I live in Britain. Anyone know London? 420 00:28:39,297 --> 00:28:42,137 That's it. Very, very good - capital. 421 00:28:42,138 --> 00:28:43,816 I'll tell you what I've got. 422 00:28:43,817 --> 00:28:47,096 I've been to lots of places in the world, 423 00:28:47,097 --> 00:28:50,497 and I travel with me with this - a globe. 424 00:28:52,537 --> 00:28:56,576 ALL: One, two, three, four... 425 00:28:56,577 --> 00:29:00,496 I'm intrigued to know how well these kids know the world around them, 426 00:29:00,497 --> 00:29:03,896 especially as international travel is effectively banned 427 00:29:03,897 --> 00:29:08,617 for all North Koreans. ..eight, nine, ten. 428 00:29:08,618 --> 00:29:10,616 Yes! 429 00:29:10,617 --> 00:29:13,177 APPLAUSE Very good! 430 00:29:17,417 --> 00:29:20,576 Who would like to show me where Britain is on this map? 431 00:29:20,577 --> 00:29:22,416 Who'd like to have a go? 432 00:29:22,417 --> 00:29:24,577 It's in Europe. Good, yes. It's in Europe. 433 00:29:24,578 --> 00:29:26,777 And it is...? 434 00:29:26,778 --> 00:29:30,136 No, that's... There we are. Yes, that there, yes. 435 00:29:30,137 --> 00:29:32,777 Now, throw it around. Have a look at the world. 436 00:29:32,778 --> 00:29:35,217 That's it. OK. 437 00:29:35,218 --> 00:29:37,977 You've got to name a country. India. India. Very good. 438 00:29:37,978 --> 00:29:41,656 Now you can throw it very hard at anyone you don't like! 439 00:29:41,657 --> 00:29:45,256 Russia! Russia! OK. Who are you going to throw it to? 440 00:29:45,257 --> 00:29:47,457 Japan. Japan. 441 00:29:47,458 --> 00:29:49,296 That's to me, OK. 442 00:29:49,297 --> 00:29:51,296 America. 443 00:29:51,297 --> 00:29:53,817 Canada. Canada. Canada. Canada. Good, yeah. 444 00:29:53,818 --> 00:29:56,257 Well done. Now, 445 00:29:56,258 --> 00:30:00,777 if there's anything they would like to ask me about my life? 446 00:30:00,778 --> 00:30:02,977 How many children in your family? 447 00:30:02,978 --> 00:30:07,217 I've got three children. How many in your family? Four. Four. 448 00:30:07,218 --> 00:30:10,696 What do you want to do when you grow up? 449 00:30:10,697 --> 00:30:13,097 I want to be a scientist. 450 00:30:13,098 --> 00:30:18,017 Anyone else? I want to enter the Korean People's Army. 451 00:30:18,018 --> 00:30:19,217 Good. 452 00:30:24,617 --> 00:30:26,576 Very good. 453 00:30:26,577 --> 00:30:29,057 I want to be a famous writer. 454 00:30:29,058 --> 00:30:31,417 You want to be a famous writer? That's good. 455 00:30:32,577 --> 00:30:35,697 Have you got a poem? Can you remember a poem that you've written? 456 00:30:36,817 --> 00:30:38,937 Say it in Korean. 457 00:31:21,977 --> 00:31:24,897 Aw! APPLAUSE 458 00:31:24,898 --> 00:31:29,217 Mount Paektu is a sacred volcano in North Korea, 459 00:31:29,218 --> 00:31:33,176 which Kim Il-sung allegedly used as a hideout while plotting against 460 00:31:33,177 --> 00:31:35,297 the Japanese in the 1930s. 461 00:31:37,817 --> 00:31:41,176 It's a beautiful poem, but I get the distinct impression 462 00:31:41,177 --> 00:31:45,057 that critical thinking is probably not on the school curriculum. 463 00:31:50,777 --> 00:31:54,376 But excelling at sport most definitely is. 464 00:31:54,377 --> 00:31:58,016 I'm told by my guides that Kim Jong-un wants North Korea 465 00:31:58,017 --> 00:32:00,777 to become a sports superpower. 466 00:32:00,778 --> 00:32:04,097 And judging by this lot, table tennis may be the way to go. 467 00:32:06,577 --> 00:32:10,817 It's like a factory farm for ping-pong champions. 468 00:32:10,818 --> 00:32:13,497 I was quite impressed, first of all, they were learning English, 469 00:32:13,498 --> 00:32:17,416 but also, the ideology was there, underneath everything 470 00:32:17,417 --> 00:32:20,217 but not pushed absolutely all the time. 471 00:32:20,218 --> 00:32:23,336 And yet, the poem was about Mount Paektu. 472 00:32:23,337 --> 00:32:26,896 The boy wanted to be a physicist to do things better for Kim Jong-un. 473 00:32:26,897 --> 00:32:29,737 It's always kind of there, very much embedded, 474 00:32:29,738 --> 00:32:32,537 that feeling of working together for one leader. 475 00:32:32,538 --> 00:32:34,737 But it wasn't pushed at me that hard. 476 00:32:34,738 --> 00:32:36,536 And the ping-pong was just incredible. 477 00:32:36,537 --> 00:32:39,297 The speed, ferocity with which they play, 478 00:32:39,298 --> 00:32:42,097 and the determination to be world beaters. 479 00:32:42,098 --> 00:32:45,456 What I'm learning is that the sense of unity and togetherness 480 00:32:45,457 --> 00:32:49,336 is incredibly strong here - if a little disturbing. 481 00:32:49,337 --> 00:32:52,897 After all, this is the land of mass military parades. 482 00:32:57,737 --> 00:32:58,737 Mm! 483 00:33:00,217 --> 00:33:02,657 Now, that is a really, really good cup of coffee. 484 00:33:02,658 --> 00:33:05,017 About the best I've had in Pyongyang. 485 00:33:05,018 --> 00:33:10,576 This rather nice, sort of intimate, almost Austrian-style cafe. 486 00:33:10,577 --> 00:33:12,176 This all feels rather pleasant. 487 00:33:12,177 --> 00:33:15,617 And yet, it's in quite an odd location, really. 488 00:33:17,937 --> 00:33:22,097 This intimate little place is actually right on the corner... 489 00:33:23,737 --> 00:33:27,577 ..of Kim Il-sung Square. 490 00:33:30,417 --> 00:33:35,656 A place where those vast processions of military might, 491 00:33:35,657 --> 00:33:41,017 it all takes place on this amazing, amazing area here. 492 00:33:42,057 --> 00:33:43,576 You can see, 493 00:33:43,577 --> 00:33:46,257 when they do these enormous ballets with thousands of people 494 00:33:46,258 --> 00:33:49,977 all doing the same thing at the same time, there are the dots. 495 00:33:51,217 --> 00:33:53,857 Little positions where people stand. 496 00:33:53,858 --> 00:33:56,617 So you've got somebody here, doing all that sort of stuff, 497 00:33:56,618 --> 00:33:59,217 and then you've got somebody here doing all that sort of stuff. 498 00:33:59,218 --> 00:34:01,977 So, you've got to sort it out. It's incredibly difficult - 499 00:34:01,978 --> 00:34:04,617 when you see it done - to actually get it done properly 500 00:34:04,618 --> 00:34:06,817 without bashing the person next to you. 501 00:34:06,818 --> 00:34:10,296 Of course, when the parades come along, it's along this roadway 502 00:34:10,297 --> 00:34:16,376 that the weapons and the missiles will come. 503 00:34:16,377 --> 00:34:21,217 It's just so... It's a strange sensation to walk across it, 504 00:34:21,218 --> 00:34:22,337 and here we are. 505 00:34:24,177 --> 00:34:28,136 At the moment, there's not many people here - just me at the moment, 506 00:34:28,137 --> 00:34:34,937 doing my own display of synchronised television presenting. 507 00:34:36,337 --> 00:34:39,177 It's never going to catch on. It's never going to catch on. 508 00:34:40,377 --> 00:34:44,817 The billboard showing a Korean soldier is just one of the many 509 00:34:44,818 --> 00:34:49,057 pieces of military propaganda I've seen in Pyongyang. 510 00:34:49,058 --> 00:34:52,456 Most of it is produced behind closed doors, 511 00:34:52,457 --> 00:34:54,617 here at the Mansudae Art Studio. 512 00:34:57,417 --> 00:35:01,216 But for the first time we are being allowed to film one of the country's 513 00:35:01,217 --> 00:35:03,697 leading propaganda artists at work. 514 00:35:06,457 --> 00:35:08,336 Can you tell me what this 515 00:35:08,337 --> 00:35:11,297 painting, what this work is about? 516 00:35:30,697 --> 00:35:35,017 This picture of pan-Korean peace and unity is very timely, 517 00:35:35,018 --> 00:35:37,217 and might be just for my benefit. 518 00:35:37,218 --> 00:35:40,137 But I think there's more to propaganda than missiles. 519 00:35:40,138 --> 00:35:43,737 It's another way to keep people united to the cause. 520 00:35:45,457 --> 00:35:49,937 What is the secret of making a good propaganda poster? 521 00:36:11,657 --> 00:36:15,817 There are over 1,000 artists here, producing art for the state. 522 00:36:17,177 --> 00:36:18,576 In this studio, 523 00:36:18,577 --> 00:36:21,897 a painter is working on a canvas celebrating the fishing industry. 524 00:36:23,377 --> 00:36:27,697 And this man has been responsible for sculpting the giant statues of 525 00:36:27,698 --> 00:36:29,736 the Great Leaders. 526 00:36:29,737 --> 00:36:33,456 I'm aware everything I'm being shown is designed to give me 527 00:36:33,457 --> 00:36:36,177 a positive image of North Korea. 528 00:36:36,178 --> 00:36:38,697 But what I'm also realising is just 529 00:36:38,698 --> 00:36:40,977 how tightly everything is controlled. 530 00:36:40,978 --> 00:36:43,857 There's no internet, no international phones, no freedom of 531 00:36:43,858 --> 00:36:45,936 the press. The government controls 532 00:36:45,937 --> 00:36:49,057 it all, and there are no voices of dissent. 533 00:36:50,297 --> 00:36:52,056 And, after a few days, 534 00:36:52,057 --> 00:36:55,616 you start to feel the propaganda seeping into your soul. 535 00:36:55,617 --> 00:36:56,897 KOREAN POP MUSIC PLAYS 536 00:37:00,097 --> 00:37:04,577 There's so much that is so different about North Korea that I find the 537 00:37:04,578 --> 00:37:07,896 offer of dinner and a few beers with my friendly guides refreshingly 538 00:37:07,897 --> 00:37:09,537 familiar. 539 00:37:11,577 --> 00:37:13,937 Have you ever done barbecue before? 540 00:37:13,938 --> 00:37:16,857 No, no, I haven't had Korean barbecue. 541 00:37:16,858 --> 00:37:19,817 Not like this. It's messy, is it? 542 00:37:19,818 --> 00:37:22,777 Is there going to be a lot of spray flying? 543 00:37:22,778 --> 00:37:24,697 Yeah, yeah. Oh! 544 00:37:26,537 --> 00:37:29,337 I think actually she's tied me to the chair! 545 00:37:29,338 --> 00:37:33,017 You look great in it. Do I? Is it my colour? Oh... 546 00:37:35,617 --> 00:37:39,216 So, this is the raw meat? Yeah. This is... Raw meat. 547 00:37:39,217 --> 00:37:41,176 Koreans like meat? 548 00:37:41,177 --> 00:37:43,617 We love it. You love meat? 549 00:37:43,618 --> 00:37:46,457 OK, I got the wrong verb, you Love meat, OK. 550 00:37:46,458 --> 00:37:49,457 You wrap.... Oh, you wrap it up? OK. OK. Mmmm. 551 00:37:54,897 --> 00:37:59,577 Mmm. How is it? Mmm. It's very, very good. Mmm! 552 00:37:59,578 --> 00:38:02,017 North Koreans enjoy a drink. 553 00:38:02,018 --> 00:38:06,497 Apparently, each man is given weekly beer coupons by the state, 554 00:38:06,498 --> 00:38:09,697 which provides them with five litres of beer a month. 555 00:38:11,417 --> 00:38:16,977 Thank you! In Korean, geonbae. Geonbae. Geonbae. Geonbae. 556 00:38:20,417 --> 00:38:22,977 It's nice to see the guides relax, 557 00:38:22,978 --> 00:38:26,136 but I'm told tomorrow is the day I'll really see the North Koreans at 558 00:38:26,137 --> 00:38:27,697 play. 559 00:38:33,237 --> 00:38:37,917 It's my last day in the capital of North Korea, and it's May Day - 560 00:38:37,918 --> 00:38:40,797 International Worker's Day - and it's a holiday. 561 00:38:44,797 --> 00:38:48,116 The parks of Pyongyang are filling up with the city's 3 million 562 00:38:48,117 --> 00:38:49,596 residents. 563 00:38:49,597 --> 00:38:51,396 WHISTLE BLOWS 564 00:38:51,397 --> 00:38:53,517 CHEERING AND CHANTING 565 00:38:58,757 --> 00:39:00,597 WHISTLE BLOWS 566 00:39:06,597 --> 00:39:09,397 The game is, people have to pick up bits of paper, 567 00:39:09,398 --> 00:39:12,476 and then the bit of paper will tell them they've got to take something 568 00:39:12,477 --> 00:39:14,917 and run around the ring. It might be a ball, it might be a hat, 569 00:39:14,918 --> 00:39:17,917 it might be a jacket, it might be a man, a woman or a child. 570 00:39:17,918 --> 00:39:20,037 And they race around with it. 571 00:39:27,117 --> 00:39:30,196 There's also music and dancing. 572 00:39:30,197 --> 00:39:32,797 UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYS 573 00:39:37,277 --> 00:39:41,116 I suspect this gentleman is a frustrated Fred Astaire - 574 00:39:41,117 --> 00:39:44,637 office manager by day, who knows what by night? 575 00:39:58,477 --> 00:40:01,956 May Day seems to be giving me what I've been hoping for - 576 00:40:01,957 --> 00:40:05,756 an opportunity to mix with ordinary North Koreans when their guard is 577 00:40:05,757 --> 00:40:07,596 down. 578 00:40:07,597 --> 00:40:09,557 CHEERFUL YELLING 579 00:40:14,557 --> 00:40:16,476 Mmmm, that's good food. 580 00:40:16,477 --> 00:40:18,917 LAUGHTER 581 00:40:21,237 --> 00:40:23,797 KOREAN POP MUSIC PLAYS 582 00:40:32,797 --> 00:40:35,717 And as the day goes on, so does the dancing... 583 00:40:35,718 --> 00:40:37,717 HE YELLS CHEERFULLY 584 00:40:43,037 --> 00:40:45,197 ..and, I suspect, the drinking. 585 00:40:50,557 --> 00:40:54,837 To an inhibited Englishman, a sort of mass fun day like May Day in 586 00:40:54,838 --> 00:40:57,437 Pyongyang seems, at first, 587 00:40:57,438 --> 00:40:59,637 slightly intimidating. 588 00:40:59,638 --> 00:41:02,437 But actually you just have to join in. 589 00:41:06,597 --> 00:41:09,277 Everyone's out, and they're all in the centre of the city. 590 00:41:09,278 --> 00:41:11,276 They don't go out to the countryside. 591 00:41:11,277 --> 00:41:14,436 And they start with lots of little parties, then become bigger parties, 592 00:41:14,437 --> 00:41:17,317 and then become these huge occasions of spontaneous dancing 593 00:41:17,318 --> 00:41:22,077 and a bit of drinking the rice wine to keep you going. 594 00:41:22,078 --> 00:41:26,477 After a bit, the whole, sort of, hill is just humming. 595 00:41:28,957 --> 00:41:31,157 Are singing and dancing quite important? 596 00:41:31,158 --> 00:41:33,116 I mean, everyone seems to have a song or a dance. 597 00:41:33,117 --> 00:41:35,997 Yeah, every Korean knows how to sing and dance. Yeah. 598 00:41:35,998 --> 00:41:38,717 Except me, I have a poor voice. THEY LAUGH 599 00:41:50,797 --> 00:41:52,397 LAUGHTER 600 00:41:53,477 --> 00:41:55,077 Thank you. 601 00:41:59,957 --> 00:42:02,677 These people might live in a repressive system 602 00:42:02,678 --> 00:42:04,917 that I find hard to understand, 603 00:42:04,918 --> 00:42:08,117 but there is a joy and humanity to this that's undimmed. 604 00:42:09,437 --> 00:42:12,197 And this goes on all day, you know. 605 00:42:12,198 --> 00:42:15,237 We're only, kind of, well, it's about 2:30. 606 00:42:15,238 --> 00:42:17,477 What's it going to be like here at night? 607 00:42:17,478 --> 00:42:22,557 It's going to be, you know... "What is it going to be like here at night?" I ask myself. Oh. 608 00:42:22,558 --> 00:42:26,316 Thank you. CHEERING 609 00:42:26,317 --> 00:42:28,837 Thank you. 610 00:42:31,037 --> 00:42:34,957 Oh, dear. He's being dragged back by the family. 611 00:42:37,317 --> 00:42:40,037 Well, I'm off to be a tree somewhere else. 612 00:43:02,997 --> 00:43:07,837 May Day, and my time in Pyongyang has left me with more questions than 613 00:43:07,838 --> 00:43:09,836 answers. 614 00:43:09,837 --> 00:43:13,196 Much of me wants to take everything at face value, 615 00:43:13,197 --> 00:43:16,396 to accept the North Korea that I'm being shown, 616 00:43:16,397 --> 00:43:18,797 but I know there's another side, 617 00:43:18,798 --> 00:43:22,156 and I've seen enough to realise this is a country with none of the 618 00:43:22,157 --> 00:43:24,757 freedoms we in the West take for granted. 619 00:43:27,397 --> 00:43:31,797 Maybe I'll learn more outside the bubble of Pyongyang. 620 00:43:31,798 --> 00:43:35,156 After much negotiation, I've been given permission to 621 00:43:35,157 --> 00:43:38,197 explore parts of the country that are normally off-limits to 622 00:43:38,198 --> 00:43:42,957 outsiders. Tomorrow we start a journey that will take us into 623 00:43:42,958 --> 00:43:44,597 uncharted territory. 624 00:43:50,277 --> 00:43:55,716 'Next time... I come face-to-face with the North Korean military...' 625 00:43:55,717 --> 00:44:01,516 Warheads and nuclear missiles have cost your country a lot of money. 626 00:44:01,517 --> 00:44:05,036 '..explore rarely filmed areas of the country...' 627 00:44:05,037 --> 00:44:09,717 We remember hearing in the West that you had a very bad shortage of food. 628 00:44:09,718 --> 00:44:13,076 '..and push the guides to breaking point.' 629 00:44:13,077 --> 00:44:17,917 All right, I'll tell you what I think. A good leader should be able to deal with criticism. 630 00:44:17,918 --> 00:44:20,877 And that's where we are so different from you. 631 00:44:22,957 --> 00:44:25,557 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 52962

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