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947
00:50:30,495 --> 00:50:33,631
why he didn't stay with him
or bring him down?
948
00:50:36,234 --> 00:50:39,137
After this thing,
things changed.
949
00:50:46,111 --> 00:50:49,480
[Nick Clinch]
It's a huge difference
between second guessing somebody
950
00:50:49,514 --> 00:50:52,183
and being there
951
00:50:52,217 --> 00:50:54,552
when you have got
to make that decision.
952
00:50:54,585 --> 00:50:58,256
You have got to do this,
and these are the factors.
953
00:51:24,149 --> 00:51:26,617
[Jim] The first time
I heard about Fred was,
954
00:51:26,651 --> 00:51:28,085
I was just a young kid.
955
00:51:28,119 --> 00:51:30,655
He was a little
different but, you know,
956
00:51:30,688 --> 00:51:34,225
nature is diverse
and so is humanity.
957
00:51:36,060 --> 00:51:40,231
My life was more, I guess
you would say, structured.
958
00:51:40,265 --> 00:51:42,133
And I would definitely say
959
00:51:42,167 --> 00:51:45,336
that Fred's life
was unstructured.
960
00:51:47,372 --> 00:51:48,773
[Timothy] His contemporaries,
they founded companies,
961
00:51:48,806 --> 00:51:50,708
they were like movie stars
for a while,
962
00:51:50,741 --> 00:51:52,777
they were glamorous.
963
00:51:52,810 --> 00:51:56,046
They were like the astronauts
of mountaineering,
964
00:51:56,080 --> 00:51:58,048
and Beckey was left out.
965
00:51:58,082 --> 00:52:00,951
[Tom] To imagine Fred being
the first American
to climb Everest
966
00:52:00,985 --> 00:52:05,523
and substituting
him for Whittaker
967
00:52:05,556 --> 00:52:07,325
I can't imagine Fred
968
00:52:07,358 --> 00:52:11,229
to be the... the sort of
the public persona
969
00:52:11,262 --> 00:52:13,030
of the expedition.
970
00:52:13,063 --> 00:52:17,435
It's a hell of a responsibility
and I'm glad it was Jim
971
00:52:17,468 --> 00:52:21,206
who I think could manage it
and thrived on it.
972
00:52:21,239 --> 00:52:23,608
[Helmy] Who was Whittaker
other than he climbed Everest?
973
00:52:23,641 --> 00:52:27,345
But these are guys
that get to talk to
the President of the USA,
974
00:52:27,378 --> 00:52:29,647
and are big heroes,
you know,
975
00:52:29,680 --> 00:52:32,250
because they're the first
Americans to climb Mt. Everest.
976
00:52:32,283 --> 00:52:34,585
[Jim] I was never attracted
to any dirtbag style
977
00:52:34,619 --> 00:52:36,787
I wasn't that far
out of the box.
978
00:52:36,821 --> 00:52:38,756
My whole life
wasn't climbing.
979
00:52:38,789 --> 00:52:42,493
It was Fred's
whole life, actually.
980
00:52:42,527 --> 00:52:44,729
I would have liked
to have gone...
981
00:52:44,762 --> 00:52:48,065
I'm sure.
But, since I wasn't invited,
982
00:52:48,098 --> 00:52:50,401
all right, so you weren't.
You know, sorry.
983
00:52:50,435 --> 00:52:52,102
Sorry.
984
00:52:54,739 --> 00:52:56,173
[Timothy] There's these
pivot points in life
985
00:52:56,207 --> 00:52:58,042
where you could go one way
or the other.
986
00:52:58,075 --> 00:52:59,544
Beckey had about 10 of them,
987
00:52:59,577 --> 00:53:03,314
and at every turn, he stayed
in the climber bum,
988
00:53:03,348 --> 00:53:05,716
dirtbag lane,
he never turned off.
989
00:53:05,750 --> 00:53:08,152
He never took
the exit to respectability,
990
00:53:08,185 --> 00:53:11,055
he never took
the exit to an easy life
991
00:53:11,088 --> 00:53:14,492
he never took the exit
to branding Fred Beckey.
992
00:53:14,525 --> 00:53:15,626
Would he have liked to?
993
00:53:15,660 --> 00:53:19,196
I mean, the proof is
in the life.
994
00:53:19,230 --> 00:53:21,098
[Fred] Can't say I've had
any regrets,
995
00:53:21,131 --> 00:53:22,667
at least I haven't
thought about it.
996
00:53:22,700 --> 00:53:25,436
I really don't like to dwell
back on the background.
997
00:53:25,470 --> 00:53:29,106
You did what you did,
forget it. You know,
look forward
998
00:53:29,139 --> 00:53:32,643
to something new.
999
00:53:32,677 --> 00:53:35,646
[Conrad] So, he missed out
on these big expeditions
1000
00:53:35,680 --> 00:53:39,450
and these trips at the time
were what professional climbers
were doing.
1001
00:53:39,484 --> 00:53:41,552
You were either part
of one of these big trips
1002
00:53:41,586 --> 00:53:44,289
or you were out there
forging your own path.
1003
00:53:44,322 --> 00:53:48,092
And Fred was
forging his own path.
1004
00:53:48,125 --> 00:53:53,398
[Alex] While the Everest
expedition spent a whole
season climbing one peak
1005
00:53:53,431 --> 00:53:56,501
and only a handful
made it to the top,
1006
00:53:56,534 --> 00:54:00,104
Fred spent the same amount
of time
1007
00:54:00,137 --> 00:54:05,510
doing dozens of first ascents
all over North America.
1008
00:54:05,543 --> 00:54:08,178
[Timothy] You could take,
in isolation,
1009
00:54:08,212 --> 00:54:10,315
probably a dozen Beckey peaks.
1010
00:54:10,348 --> 00:54:13,384
Any of those dozen
would make a career.
1011
00:54:13,418 --> 00:54:16,621
But then, expand that
by a factor of ten,
1012
00:54:16,654 --> 00:54:19,490
and Beckey was just
knocking them off
one after the other.
1013
00:54:19,524 --> 00:54:22,727
It was like,
tell me a place
that's unclimbable,
1014
00:54:22,760 --> 00:54:25,630
and I'll be there on Saturday.
1015
00:54:25,663 --> 00:54:28,198
He was astonishing people.
1016
00:54:30,100 --> 00:54:31,436
[Ed Cooper] In those
early days,
1017
00:54:31,469 --> 00:54:35,506
Fred seemed to be climbing
almost all the time.
1018
00:54:35,540 --> 00:54:38,543
In fact, many of us wondered
where he got all the money
1019
00:54:38,576 --> 00:54:42,413
because he never seemed
to have a job or work.
1020
00:54:42,447 --> 00:54:47,418
[Don] No one really knew
much about how he made
his living
1021
00:54:47,452 --> 00:54:48,719
or what he did.
1022
00:54:48,753 --> 00:54:50,254
[Yvon] He had no money,
I mean, he was working,
1023
00:54:50,721 --> 00:54:54,525
I think as a paper salesman
in those days...
1024
00:54:54,559 --> 00:54:56,461
[Eric]
When I first met him,
he sold insurance
1025
00:54:56,494 --> 00:54:59,530
and he usually had
a company car...
1026
00:54:59,564 --> 00:55:00,598
[Steve] He didn't work at all.
1027
00:55:00,631 --> 00:55:03,100
I don't know quite
how he did it.
1028
00:55:05,736 --> 00:55:07,338
Then the big rumor...
1029
00:55:07,372 --> 00:55:10,508
came along, there was this
plane crash on Slesse,
1030
00:55:10,541 --> 00:55:14,479
and the rumor was that there
was all this gold aboard.
1031
00:55:14,512 --> 00:55:18,649
Fred was trying to get people
to go into Slesse with him.
1032
00:55:18,683 --> 00:55:21,386
Some of us began to think,
well, you know,
1033
00:55:21,419 --> 00:55:24,389
maybe he actually got in there
and got hold of that money.
1034
00:55:24,422 --> 00:55:27,124
And that's why he was able to,
you know,
1035
00:55:27,157 --> 00:55:30,628
spend all his time climbing.
1036
00:55:30,661 --> 00:55:35,299
[Alex] He put away money,
and we never will find out
1037
00:55:35,332 --> 00:55:38,302
how much, but he put it
away in stocks...
1038
00:55:38,335 --> 00:55:40,705
[Fred] How much do I have
on the market?
1039
00:55:43,107 --> 00:55:45,610
That's all?
1040
00:55:45,643 --> 00:55:48,546
Well, I can't buy
anything with that.
1041
00:55:48,579 --> 00:55:50,515
OK, great, Thanks.
1042
00:55:50,548 --> 00:55:52,983
How about this
macaroni and cheese?
1043
00:55:53,017 --> 00:55:56,621
[Dave] What do you say
when someone asks you
what do you do for a living?
1044
00:55:56,654 --> 00:55:58,322
[Fred] It depends who it is.
1045
00:55:58,355 --> 00:56:00,925
If I don't want to
talk to that person,
I just tell 'em, "Adios."
1046
00:56:00,958 --> 00:56:03,561
None of their fucking business!
1047
00:56:03,594 --> 00:56:05,696
[Timothy] When I got to know
him, he was sort of twitchy
1048
00:56:05,730 --> 00:56:09,634
whenever he was at sea level.
He doesn't do well
1049
00:56:09,667 --> 00:56:11,769
when he's not in thin air.
1050
00:56:11,802 --> 00:56:13,538
Yeah, I wish
they'd make the law,
1051
00:56:13,571 --> 00:56:16,240
"Car first. Pedestrians,
fuck 'em."
1052
00:56:16,273 --> 00:56:20,611
Like China,
Bangkok or Europe.
1053
00:56:20,645 --> 00:56:22,680
Here, the fuckin' people
walk out across street
1054
00:56:22,713 --> 00:56:24,314
and don't even look!
1055
00:56:24,348 --> 00:56:25,716
[Timothy] It's like he was
in prison or something
1056
00:56:25,750 --> 00:56:27,184
when he was in the city.
1057
00:56:27,217 --> 00:56:29,053
The mountains
are the only thing
1058
00:56:29,086 --> 00:56:30,821
that made him comfortable.
1059
00:56:33,591 --> 00:56:36,360
-[beep]
-[Fred] Hey, this is Beckey.
Can you rent a car?
1060
00:56:36,393 --> 00:56:38,328
But we've got to
get out of here.
1061
00:56:38,362 --> 00:56:40,130
The weather might
come in on Sunday,
1062
00:56:40,164 --> 00:56:41,999
and it'll fuck
the whole damn trip up.
1063
00:56:42,032 --> 00:56:44,001
-[beep]
-Beckey again!
1064
00:56:44,034 --> 00:56:45,536
I called you
over and over.
1065
00:56:45,570 --> 00:56:48,072
The whole trip is not going
to work unless we get going.
1066
00:56:48,105 --> 00:56:49,273
[beep]
1067
00:56:49,306 --> 00:56:51,341
Hey, this is a crisis.
This is Fred.
1068
00:56:51,375 --> 00:56:55,480
You have got to be here
on the 12th, on Saturday!
1069
00:56:55,513 --> 00:56:56,681
That was our agreement!
1070
00:56:56,714 --> 00:56:59,684
You cannot be here
as late as Monday!
1071
00:56:59,717 --> 00:57:03,153
We are losing
the whole weekend.
1072
00:57:03,187 --> 00:57:05,289
[Rick Ridgeway] He called me
up couple weeks ago
1073
00:57:05,322 --> 00:57:07,424
to check in on how the book
was coming along,
1074
00:57:07,458 --> 00:57:09,960
and I said, "Well,
how are you coming
along on the climbs?"
1075
00:57:09,994 --> 00:57:12,262
He said, "Oh, I got
weathered off last year,
but I'm getting all geared up,
1076
00:57:12,296 --> 00:57:16,467
we'll get it done.
We'll get it done
before press time."
1077
00:57:16,501 --> 00:57:18,469
[Fred]
Don't take movies of me, I look
kind of ugly this morning.
1078
00:57:18,503 --> 00:57:20,905
[Jeff Wenger]
Ah, you look great.
1079
00:57:20,938 --> 00:57:23,340
-[Jeff] Hey!
-[Fred] Anybody want agua?
1080
00:57:23,373 --> 00:57:25,576
-[Jeff] Sure,
I'll have a little.
-[Fred] Yeah, it's free.
1081
00:57:25,610 --> 00:57:29,346
-[Jeff] How many times
have you been up here?
-[Fred] Too many.
1082
00:57:29,379 --> 00:57:32,049
Just, things just haven't
clicked.
1083
00:57:32,082 --> 00:57:34,585
Sometimes my fault,
1084
00:57:34,619 --> 00:57:36,420
sometimes the weather.
1085
00:57:42,392 --> 00:57:44,194
OK.
1086
00:57:45,530 --> 00:57:49,567
[breathing heavily]
1087
00:57:59,544 --> 00:58:01,378
Good lead.
1088
00:58:04,248 --> 00:58:06,183
I'm not doing very well.
1089
00:58:07,417 --> 00:58:09,119
Shitty.
1090
00:58:09,153 --> 00:58:11,455
[Todd] I do see Fred
get really defeated
1091
00:58:11,488 --> 00:58:15,660
by not physically
being able to do it,
because mentally he still
1092
00:58:15,693 --> 00:58:18,162
thinks of being able
to climb this stuff.
1093
00:58:18,195 --> 00:58:21,198
He still wants
to climb Lucky Streaks,
and believes he can.
1094
00:58:21,231 --> 00:58:24,034
Hope I climb
better than this tomorrow.
1095
00:58:24,068 --> 00:58:25,502
Fuck.
1096
00:58:27,605 --> 00:58:30,775
I didn't set any
speed records on that, man.
1097
00:58:30,808 --> 00:58:32,242
Kind of fun, though.
1098
00:58:32,276 --> 00:58:34,779
Hope I didn't embarrass
you guys too much.
1099
00:58:34,812 --> 00:58:36,346
[Jeff] You did great, man.
1100
00:58:36,380 --> 00:58:38,515
I don't know,
I feel a little clumsy.
1101
00:58:42,620 --> 00:58:46,390
[Todd] Very quickly
after the defeat
and the self doubt
1102
00:58:46,423 --> 00:58:48,325
he's real quick
to just turn right back around
1103
00:58:48,358 --> 00:58:54,231
and somehow just erase
all that from his brain
and start fresh
1104
00:58:54,264 --> 00:58:56,066
that he wants to climb
Lucky Streaks again.
1105
00:58:56,100 --> 00:58:58,368
Ah, maybe I'll go back
next year, we'll see.
1106
00:58:58,402 --> 00:59:01,606
If I do, I think I'm just
gonna go up and climb
1107
00:59:01,639 --> 00:59:04,975
three pitches
and just bail out.
Fuck it.
1108
00:59:05,009 --> 00:59:07,011
[Jim] One thing
about alpine climbing--
1109
00:59:07,044 --> 00:59:11,081
if you can't handle
rejection or failure,
1110
00:59:11,115 --> 00:59:12,516
don't even go there.
1111
00:59:12,549 --> 00:59:13,684
[music playing]
1112
00:59:13,718 --> 00:59:15,620
[Jim] We were in Bishop,
California.
1113
00:59:15,653 --> 00:59:17,221
It was a Saturday night,
1114
00:59:17,254 --> 00:59:19,156
and we all went to
a country western bar,
1115
00:59:19,189 --> 00:59:20,524
and there were lot of women.
1116
00:59:20,557 --> 00:59:22,126
Fred's there,
and there's this table
1117
00:59:22,159 --> 00:59:25,630
with about nine attractive
women in their, maybe thirties.
1118
00:59:25,663 --> 00:59:27,965
He'd go over, and he'd
tap one on the shoulder,
1119
00:59:27,998 --> 00:59:29,266
and she'd look up at him,
1120
00:59:29,299 --> 00:59:30,768
you know, he's
35 years older and...
1121
00:59:30,801 --> 00:59:33,137
"Hey, uh, hey, would you like
to dance?"
1122
00:59:33,170 --> 00:59:35,105
And, "No."
1123
00:59:35,139 --> 00:59:37,574
And then, "Ok." You know,
he'd go to the next one,
1124
00:59:38,809 --> 00:59:40,778
"Hey, how about you,
would you like to dance?"
1125
00:59:40,811 --> 00:59:42,279
"I don't think so."
1126
00:59:42,312 --> 00:59:43,714
But he went right
around the table to,
1127
00:59:43,748 --> 00:59:45,315
about the fifth or sixth one,
1128
00:59:45,349 --> 00:59:47,184
and the most attractive even.
1129
00:59:47,217 --> 00:59:48,452
And she said, "Sure,
I'll dance."
1130
00:59:48,485 --> 00:59:50,254
And they went up,
and they disappeared,
1131
00:59:50,287 --> 00:59:53,758
and we never saw him again
for three days. [chuckles]
1132
00:59:53,791 --> 00:59:55,459
Persistence pays off.
1133
00:59:55,492 --> 00:59:57,027
[Fred] Something like that?
1134
00:59:57,061 --> 00:59:58,262
-Yeah. It's good.
-[Annie Musselman] Yeah.
1135
00:59:58,295 --> 00:59:59,329
[camera shutter clicks]
1136
00:59:59,363 --> 01:00:02,099
You want me to smile
or grouch or...
1137
01:00:02,132 --> 01:00:05,069
[woman laughing]
1138
01:00:05,102 --> 01:00:07,337
[laughing] You're great.
1139
01:00:07,371 --> 01:00:11,175
-[Fred] You're tall,
what are you, 5'8"? 5'9"? 5'8".
-[Annie] 5'8", yeah, and a half.
1140
01:00:11,208 --> 01:00:13,510
[Fred] You haven't done
any rock climbing at all?
1141
01:00:13,543 --> 01:00:16,280
-[Fred] It's all right.
-[Annie] Kinda scary.
1142
01:00:16,313 --> 01:00:18,082
-[Fred] Yeah, sorta.
-[Annie] You don't think?
1143
01:00:18,115 --> 01:00:20,050
-[Fred] It is scary.
-[Annie] Yeah.
1144
01:00:20,084 --> 01:00:21,518
[Fred] But lots of of other
things are scary.
1145
01:00:21,551 --> 01:00:23,620
[Annie] Yeah, that's true.
1146
01:00:25,422 --> 01:00:27,324
[Corey] Fred Beckey
in his late 80s
1147
01:00:27,357 --> 01:00:30,327
is more motivated
for expeditions
1148
01:00:30,360 --> 01:00:33,597
and has more ideas
for what he would like to climb
1149
01:00:33,630 --> 01:00:35,365
than any other climber,
1150
01:00:35,399 --> 01:00:37,501
and it's because
he's thinking about this stuff
1151
01:00:37,534 --> 01:00:41,405
24/7 for 80-plus years.
1152
01:00:41,438 --> 01:00:44,574
[Yvon] Still now,
he's not staying in motels,
1153
01:00:44,608 --> 01:00:46,677
he's sleeping
on the side of the road
1154
01:00:46,711 --> 01:00:48,612
and hasn't changed at all.
1155
01:00:48,645 --> 01:00:51,348
[Fred] OK.
1156
01:00:51,381 --> 01:00:52,750
I guess we're out of here.
1157
01:00:52,783 --> 01:00:56,253
I probably won't get back
till July 12, 14th, maybe.
1158
01:00:56,286 --> 01:00:58,622
-[Dave] Mm-hmm.
-I'm not sure, you know.
1159
01:01:05,162 --> 01:01:06,596
[Barry] One way you knew
you made
1160
01:01:06,630 --> 01:01:09,233
the North American
climbing landscape
1161
01:01:09,266 --> 01:01:11,368
was you'd get your first
Fred Beckey phone calls...
1162
01:01:11,401 --> 01:01:13,203
[beep]
1163
01:01:13,237 --> 01:01:15,339
[Fred] Fred Beckey,
let's get together on a climb.
1164
01:01:15,372 --> 01:01:17,407
Actually I'm taking off,
I hope today.
1165
01:01:17,441 --> 01:01:19,609
I'm trying to get something
together to go to Canada...
1166
01:01:19,643 --> 01:01:21,078
Yeah, I'm hot to
go on this thing
1167
01:01:21,111 --> 01:01:22,346
as soon as
we can get mobilized.
1168
01:01:22,379 --> 01:01:24,281
[Don] In a way,
you look forward
1169
01:01:24,314 --> 01:01:26,150
to communications with Fred,
1170
01:01:26,183 --> 01:01:28,218
and in a way you looked
a little bit with dread
1171
01:01:28,252 --> 01:01:30,420
at the next time
he's going to give you a call.
1172
01:01:30,454 --> 01:01:34,391
Right now, I don't know
what I'm doing except tomorrow.
1173
01:01:34,424 --> 01:01:36,727
I have no idea.
1174
01:01:36,761 --> 01:01:38,662
Are you in Alaska?
1175
01:01:38,695 --> 01:01:41,065
OK, you just got back?
1176
01:01:41,098 --> 01:01:43,567
I've been trying to get hold
of you, as you probably know.
1177
01:01:43,600 --> 01:01:47,537
[Steve] He was persuasive,
yeah. He'd get you the phone.
1178
01:01:47,571 --> 01:01:50,607
He'd analyze the weather--
the "weddah," as he called it.
1179
01:01:50,640 --> 01:01:52,977
[Fred] Called the weather
man, it's supposed to be good.
1180
01:01:53,010 --> 01:01:54,478
What do you think
of this awful summer weather?
1181
01:01:54,511 --> 01:01:56,046
I was trying
to call Canada today
1182
01:01:56,080 --> 01:01:58,482
and I may call some ranger
up there like the ice fields
1183
01:01:58,515 --> 01:02:00,951
and get an idea
what is really happening.
1184
01:02:00,985 --> 01:02:03,687
[Jack Tackle] How many
thousands of people
have gotten a call
1185
01:02:03,720 --> 01:02:06,256
in the middle of the night,
you know, "What's the weather
doing there?"
1186
01:02:06,290 --> 01:02:08,392
"Well, Fred, it's fucking dark
out, I don't know.
1187
01:02:08,425 --> 01:02:11,061
[Fred] I think conditions here
are pretty darn good right now.
1188
01:02:11,095 --> 01:02:12,362
The weather's excellent.
1189
01:02:12,396 --> 01:02:13,597
Actually got room
for another guy.
1190
01:02:13,630 --> 01:02:15,299
Three would be perfect.
1191
01:02:15,332 --> 01:02:16,633
[Alex] He would do his best
1192
01:02:16,666 --> 01:02:19,103
to convince a guy
to go climbing.
1193
01:02:19,136 --> 01:02:20,771
[Fred] You're pushing
your luck sometimes,
1194
01:02:20,805 --> 01:02:23,640
like you might
get high blood pressure
by just working too hard.
1195
01:02:23,673 --> 01:02:25,943
[Alex] He'd hound you
until you caved in.
1196
01:02:25,976 --> 01:02:28,212
[Erik Harz] He will not
rest until you call him back.
1197
01:02:28,245 --> 01:02:29,513
There's no blowing off Fred.
1198
01:02:29,546 --> 01:02:30,848
[Fred] Shit!
1199
01:02:30,881 --> 01:02:32,116
[Erik] Especially if
he knows where you live,
1200
01:02:32,149 --> 01:02:34,018
like, you don't know,
he could just,
1201
01:02:34,051 --> 01:02:36,353
-like, show up at your house.
-[Fred] I'm Fred Beckey,
remember me.
1202
01:02:36,386 --> 01:02:38,022
Hey, we're right
in front of your house!
1203
01:02:38,055 --> 01:02:40,390
Fucking system, I got
to do something about this.
1204
01:02:40,424 --> 01:02:41,691
I'm on your street,
1205
01:02:41,725 --> 01:02:44,261
but I don't know
where your place is.
Gonna stop by.
1206
01:02:44,294 --> 01:02:46,030
Well, are you the one
with the fence?
1207
01:02:46,063 --> 01:02:49,033
[Todd] If you've ever seen
Fred's filing system
1208
01:02:49,066 --> 01:02:51,068
it's a series
of different cards
1209
01:02:51,101 --> 01:02:53,203
rubber banded together,
in different areas.
1210
01:02:53,237 --> 01:02:55,272
Phone numbers scratched out,
1211
01:02:55,305 --> 01:02:56,773
more current phone numbers,
addresses,
1212
01:02:56,807 --> 01:02:58,542
what days a person has off.
1213
01:02:58,575 --> 01:03:00,344
I've seen him fill
this out on the phone.
1214
01:03:00,377 --> 01:03:01,846
"So, what days
are you off again?"
1215
01:03:01,879 --> 01:03:04,014
And, "Oh, Thursdays
and Fridays,
1216
01:03:04,048 --> 01:03:05,682
I can climb with this guy."
1217
01:03:05,715 --> 01:03:08,352
He thinks nothing of making
that late night phone call.
1218
01:03:08,385 --> 01:03:10,354
He just pulls in and just would
throw his sleeping bag
1219
01:03:10,387 --> 01:03:12,522
down in our driveway
and crash out.
1220
01:03:12,556 --> 01:03:14,591
I remember having
kids walk past
1221
01:03:14,624 --> 01:03:17,061
in the morning going to school.
One of the kids said,
1222
01:03:17,094 --> 01:03:19,396
"Why do you make your grandpa
sleep in the driveway?"
1223
01:03:23,100 --> 01:03:24,401
[Alex] In the early '60s,
1224
01:03:24,434 --> 01:03:27,504
Shiprock only had
one route on it.
1225
01:03:27,537 --> 01:03:29,773
So, any other ascent
1226
01:03:29,806 --> 01:03:34,278
would result in a first ascent,
and that was Fred's forte.
1227
01:03:34,311 --> 01:03:38,115
So he tried to recruit
Eric Bjornstad and me
1228
01:03:38,148 --> 01:03:39,483
to do the climb with him,
1229
01:03:39,516 --> 01:03:43,553
and Eric agreed
to go with them and I didn't.
1230
01:03:46,223 --> 01:03:48,425
[Eric] When we went to Shiprock
in the early '60s,
1231
01:03:48,458 --> 01:03:51,128
the lady that I was
going with at the time
1232
01:03:51,161 --> 01:03:54,731
had tattoos over
about 80% of her body.
1233
01:03:54,764 --> 01:03:56,800
And Fred just hated her.
1234
01:03:58,702 --> 01:04:01,338
[Fred] I really don't even
know why he brought her.
1235
01:04:01,371 --> 01:04:03,040
She was not a climber.
1236
01:04:03,073 --> 01:04:05,642
What was she gonna do
there all that time?
1237
01:04:05,675 --> 01:04:08,778
You know, I think
it was a really bad choice.
1238
01:04:08,812 --> 01:04:12,216
[Eric] I spent 20 days on the
Southwest Buttress of Shiprock
1239
01:04:12,249 --> 01:04:14,284
with Fred and this lady,
1240
01:04:14,318 --> 01:04:16,420
and finally had a falling out
with Fred.
1241
01:04:16,453 --> 01:04:19,056
[Alex] When Eric decided
to quit,
1242
01:04:19,089 --> 01:04:20,390
Fred just couldn't handle it.
1243
01:04:20,424 --> 01:04:22,726
And of course
they were out there
1244
01:04:22,759 --> 01:04:24,428
in Fred's Thunderbird.
1245
01:04:24,461 --> 01:04:26,997
Fred wouldn't even take Eric
to the bus station,
1246
01:04:27,031 --> 01:04:31,068
so, Eric and his girlfriend
had to walk across the desert.
1247
01:04:31,101 --> 01:04:33,270
[Eric] We hiked back
out to the highway,
1248
01:04:33,303 --> 01:04:34,471
which was several miles,
1249
01:04:34,504 --> 01:04:37,274
and then hitchhiked
back to Seattle,
1250
01:04:37,307 --> 01:04:38,742
and Fred would dog us
1251
01:04:38,775 --> 01:04:42,012
he would follow us in the car
staying within view...
1252
01:04:42,046 --> 01:04:43,280
and then as we'd get let off,
1253
01:04:43,313 --> 01:04:46,516
he would drive by slowly.
[chuckles]
1254
01:04:46,550 --> 01:04:50,354
And he did that
all the way into Oregon.
1255
01:04:50,387 --> 01:04:51,721
He then got on the phone,
1256
01:04:51,755 --> 01:04:54,458
you know, every few hours
and would call me
1257
01:04:54,491 --> 01:04:57,127
at my office, and so when the
phone would ring,
1258
01:04:57,161 --> 01:04:58,528
the boss would answer the phone
1259
01:04:58,562 --> 01:05:00,397
and it'd be long distance
1260
01:05:00,430 --> 01:05:05,302
and it'd be a long discourse
of how great the climb is,
1261
01:05:05,335 --> 01:05:07,337
and how good the conditions are.
1262
01:05:07,371 --> 01:05:08,772
"Oh, yeah, Eric,
1263
01:05:08,805 --> 01:05:10,507
you know, lost interest,
you know,
1264
01:05:10,540 --> 01:05:13,110
there was no big problem."
Which was all a lie.
1265
01:05:13,143 --> 01:05:15,379
My boss started
getting angry with me
1266
01:05:15,412 --> 01:05:17,514
because, you know,
I was getting paid by the hour.
1267
01:05:17,547 --> 01:05:20,284
I figured, hey,
I've got a raise coming,
1268
01:05:20,317 --> 01:05:22,319
So, I kind of
1269
01:05:22,352 --> 01:05:23,487
asked my boss for the raise,
1270
01:05:23,520 --> 01:05:25,255
and when he didn't
give me the raise,
1271
01:05:25,289 --> 01:05:28,158
it was a good excuse
to quit and join Fred.
1272
01:05:28,192 --> 01:05:29,359
[Fred] When Eric
and I were there,
1273
01:05:29,393 --> 01:05:31,628
it was too windy,
too cold.
1274
01:05:31,661 --> 01:05:34,431
And when Alex came,
everything changed.
1275
01:05:34,464 --> 01:05:36,266
It got too warm.
1276
01:05:36,300 --> 01:05:39,269
[Alex] We were within 200 feet
of the summit
1277
01:05:39,303 --> 01:05:43,373
when Fred decided
that we couldn't go any further
1278
01:05:43,407 --> 01:05:46,610
because we only maybe had
a cup of water left
1279
01:05:46,643 --> 01:05:49,213
in our last bottle.
1280
01:05:49,246 --> 01:05:52,416
He was adamant
about going down,
1281
01:05:52,449 --> 01:05:54,584
and I was adamant
about going up.
1282
01:05:54,618 --> 01:05:59,023
And Fred, I think, almost
had a nervous breakdown.
1283
01:05:59,056 --> 01:06:02,359
Eventually I felt exhausted
just arguing with him
1284
01:06:02,392 --> 01:06:03,660
and I said,
"OK, let's go down,
1285
01:06:03,693 --> 01:06:06,130
but I'm not coming
back up again."
1286
01:06:06,163 --> 01:06:07,697
And he said, "That's fine."
1287
01:06:07,731 --> 01:06:11,068
[Fred] Luckily I'd been
in touch with Harvey Carter,
1288
01:06:11,101 --> 01:06:12,669
who I'd climbed with before.
1289
01:06:12,702 --> 01:06:15,339
[Eric] Harvey came out
and met Fred at Shiprock,
1290
01:06:15,372 --> 01:06:18,208
and within half a day
they reached the summit.
1291
01:06:18,242 --> 01:06:19,476
So, the first ascent
of the southwest buttress
1292
01:06:19,509 --> 01:06:22,279
was Fred Beckey
and Harvey Carter.
1293
01:06:22,312 --> 01:06:24,248
But Alex had spent
a whole week on the climb
1294
01:06:24,281 --> 01:06:27,584
and I'd spent 20 days
on the climb.
1295
01:06:35,659 --> 01:06:38,362
[Don] We have
an important announcement.
1296
01:06:38,395 --> 01:06:41,198
We're standing
on the summit of Mt. Seattle.
1297
01:06:52,209 --> 01:06:56,480
[Don] The culture of that time
was one of personal pride.
1298
01:06:56,513 --> 01:06:59,283
If you were a climber,
you kind of felt
1299
01:06:59,316 --> 01:07:02,286
that you were
a little bit special.
1300
01:07:02,319 --> 01:07:04,688
[Eric] It was very appealing
to do something
1301
01:07:04,721 --> 01:07:06,590
that few other people could do.
1302
01:07:06,623 --> 01:07:10,394
And back in the 60s it was
pretty esoteric, you know.
1303
01:07:10,427 --> 01:07:13,597
Why people climb now
I think is totally different.
1304
01:07:13,630 --> 01:07:16,066
[Peter] Some people talk about
the sport of mountaineering,
1305
01:07:16,100 --> 01:07:18,502
or the sport of climbing,
and for me it's just,
1306
01:07:18,535 --> 01:07:21,571
what sport is
so much about is rules.
1307
01:07:21,605 --> 01:07:23,607
You have to follow the rules,
1308
01:07:23,640 --> 01:07:26,576
I think what defines being up
in the mountains and climbing,
1309
01:07:26,610 --> 01:07:29,613
is that there is no rules.
1310
01:07:29,646 --> 01:07:33,750
[Ed Cooper] It was a fierce
competition in those days.
1311
01:07:33,783 --> 01:07:35,252
We didn't really
get along well.
1312
01:07:35,285 --> 01:07:37,387
I had my ideas
of what I wanted to do,
1313
01:07:37,421 --> 01:07:40,157
and he had his ideas
of what he wanted to do.
1314
01:07:40,190 --> 01:07:42,392
The first ascents
were the thing.
1315
01:07:42,426 --> 01:07:44,027
[Fred] Cooper might
have been one that...
1316
01:07:44,060 --> 01:07:45,395
he was interested,
maybe sometimes interested
1317
01:07:45,429 --> 01:07:47,564
in the same climbs I was,
1318
01:07:47,597 --> 01:07:49,032
and that's fine!
1319
01:07:49,065 --> 01:07:51,301
You know,
there was some competition.
1320
01:07:51,335 --> 01:07:54,238
But sometimes
I joined him on climbs, too.
1321
01:07:54,271 --> 01:07:57,341
[Ed Cooper] It became
a little bit of a game.
1322
01:07:57,374 --> 01:08:00,710
He wouldn't tell his partners
where they were going,
1323
01:08:00,744 --> 01:08:03,313
in case the weather turned bad
and they never got there,
1324
01:08:03,347 --> 01:08:05,249
then he wouldn't tip 'em off
1325
01:08:05,282 --> 01:08:07,717
about this first ascent
that he wants to do.
1326
01:08:11,821 --> 01:08:14,391
[Alex] Fred was only
focused on climbing,
1327
01:08:14,424 --> 01:08:18,562
and his partners had to be
dedicated the same way.
1328
01:08:18,595 --> 01:08:21,765
And he never felt sorry for you
1329
01:08:21,798 --> 01:08:24,534
if your climbing ended
up in a divorce.
1330
01:08:24,568 --> 01:08:27,704
[Dave] He's had to leave
a few burning bridges behind,
1331
01:08:27,737 --> 01:08:31,341
in order to live the life
that he's wanted to live.
1332
01:08:31,375 --> 01:08:34,378
[Eric] He went through
dozens and dozens of climbers.
1333
01:08:34,411 --> 01:08:36,746
He would have
falling-outs with them,
1334
01:08:36,780 --> 01:08:38,848
and he was a difficult
person to be around,
1335
01:08:38,882 --> 01:08:40,517
but I got along well with him
1336
01:08:40,550 --> 01:08:42,352
because I admired Fred
for his climbing ability
1337
01:08:42,386 --> 01:08:44,621
and just overlooked
the other faults
1338
01:08:44,654 --> 01:08:46,290
that he might have had.
1339
01:08:46,323 --> 01:08:49,493
[Nick] Now, climbers are
a pretty single-minded bunch.
1340
01:08:49,526 --> 01:08:52,529
But he's more single-minded
than the single-minded bunch.
1341
01:08:52,562 --> 01:08:55,532
People thought I was a fanatic,
they thought my friends
were fanatics,
1342
01:08:55,565 --> 01:08:58,502
and that's nothing,
nothing compared to Fred!
1343
01:08:58,535 --> 01:09:02,005
[Ed] He would kind of
talk almost constantly.
1344
01:09:02,038 --> 01:09:04,441
[Yvon] Fred will wear you down.
[chuckles]
1345
01:09:04,474 --> 01:09:07,644
He'll repeat the same thing
over and over again,
1346
01:09:07,677 --> 01:09:10,180
and that can drive you nuts.
1347
01:09:10,214 --> 01:09:12,349
[Alex] There were three
subjects that he would
talk about.
1348
01:09:12,382 --> 01:09:17,086
Of course, the first one
is mountains. The other,
of course, weather.
1349
01:09:17,120 --> 01:09:19,423
And the other subject
was women--
1350
01:09:19,456 --> 01:09:22,426
women he'd dated,
women that he wanted to date.
1351
01:09:22,459 --> 01:09:24,994
Women he should have dated.
1352
01:09:25,028 --> 01:09:28,031
Those were the three subjects
that you were stuck with
1353
01:09:28,064 --> 01:09:31,335
when you were
in a tent with Fred.
1354
01:09:31,368 --> 01:09:33,203
[Dave] You think
people considered you
1355
01:09:33,237 --> 01:09:35,205
sort of
a renegade climber?
1356
01:09:35,239 --> 01:09:37,507
They probably think
I'm pretty independent.
1357
01:09:39,209 --> 01:09:41,611
That's all right,
I don't care what they think.
1358
01:09:41,645 --> 01:09:43,380
I could care less.
1359
01:09:46,416 --> 01:09:49,118
[Timothy] There was a school
of thought that he was unsafe,
1360
01:09:49,152 --> 01:09:53,423
that what comes with being
a spectacular pioneer
1361
01:09:53,457 --> 01:09:55,392
is recklessness.
1362
01:09:55,425 --> 01:09:57,661
People died climbing with him.
1363
01:09:57,694 --> 01:10:01,197
[Dave] Have you lost
a lot of friends
in the mountains?
1364
01:10:01,231 --> 01:10:06,703
[Fred] A few, yeah.
Dick Berge on Mt. Baring.
1365
01:10:06,736 --> 01:10:08,338
That was a bad one.
1366
01:10:08,372 --> 01:10:12,476
And we lost Charles Shiverick
in an accident
1367
01:10:12,509 --> 01:10:15,745
on Mt. Serra
in the Mt. Waddington area...
1368
01:10:15,779 --> 01:10:18,181
or Waddington Range.
1369
01:10:18,214 --> 01:10:19,416
Very unfortunate.
1370
01:10:19,449 --> 01:10:22,085
I feel very, very,
very bad about it.
1371
01:10:22,118 --> 01:10:25,755
Many climbers have lost
some of their best friends
climbing.
1372
01:10:25,789 --> 01:10:28,325
it's not for everybody.
1373
01:10:28,358 --> 01:10:30,193
It definitely is not.
1374
01:10:30,226 --> 01:10:32,095
[Timothy] There is
an element of luck
1375
01:10:32,128 --> 01:10:35,465
involved
in these risky sports.
1376
01:10:35,499 --> 01:10:37,534
They never pinned the blame
specifically on him
1377
01:10:37,567 --> 01:10:39,068
for these deaths.
1378
01:10:39,102 --> 01:10:41,371
It was more like,
he lived and they didn't.
1379
01:10:41,405 --> 01:10:43,440
They took the fatal wrong step.
1380
01:10:43,473 --> 01:10:46,242
But, there was enough there
for the gossips
1381
01:10:46,276 --> 01:10:49,613
that he developed
a bad reputation.
1382
01:10:50,780 --> 01:10:52,782
[Fred] If risk appealed to me,
1383
01:10:52,816 --> 01:10:59,155
I'd go out in the jungle
and you know, hang around the
lions.
1384
01:10:59,188 --> 01:11:01,057
[Ed Cooper] He was,
to my knowledge,
1385
01:11:01,090 --> 01:11:04,694
never injured seriously
in an accident.
1386
01:11:04,728 --> 01:11:06,330
That's quite a feat
1387
01:11:06,363 --> 01:11:09,065
with all the climbing
that he has done.
1388
01:11:09,098 --> 01:11:10,867
[Layton] You were guaranteed
1389
01:11:10,900 --> 01:11:12,001
going back in the mountains
with Fred,
1390
01:11:12,035 --> 01:11:13,670
you weren't gonna get lost
at least.
1391
01:11:13,703 --> 01:11:16,272
He knew exactly
where he was all the time.
1392
01:11:16,306 --> 01:11:18,675
He'd spent enough years
in the mountains to know
1393
01:11:18,708 --> 01:11:22,011
that if you were gonna
continue doing this sort
of thing and survive,
1394
01:11:22,045 --> 01:11:24,247
well, you gotta be careful.
1395
01:11:24,280 --> 01:11:27,116
[Yvon]
The reason I'm alive today
is probably because of Fred
1396
01:11:27,150 --> 01:11:30,520
and the things I learned
alpine climbing with him.
1397
01:11:30,554 --> 01:11:34,524
There were probably 250
serious climbers in America.
1398
01:11:34,558 --> 01:11:36,726
I didn't know who Fred was
when I first met him,
1399
01:11:36,760 --> 01:11:39,162
but then I started
realizing that
1400
01:11:39,195 --> 01:11:41,731
he's one of the few guys
1401
01:11:41,765 --> 01:11:46,102
that actually searched out
hard alpine climbs.
1402
01:11:49,138 --> 01:11:52,075
[vintage narrator] Beautiful
Mt. Edith Cavell in Canada.
1403
01:11:52,108 --> 01:11:53,443
Many have wanted to scale
1404
01:11:53,477 --> 01:11:55,412
the North Face
of this mountain,
1405
01:11:55,445 --> 01:11:59,649
but no one has
ever dared it before.
1406
01:11:59,683 --> 01:12:03,152
[Yvon] When we tried to sign
out with the park warden,
1407
01:12:03,186 --> 01:12:05,722
he wouldn't sign us out,
he said, "It's suicide."
1408
01:12:05,755 --> 01:12:08,257
And so we said, "OK, we're
gonna go do it anyway."
1409
01:12:09,626 --> 01:12:13,630
[vintage narrator]
7:00 a.m., the men set out,
1410
01:12:13,663 --> 01:12:16,099
to risk their lives,
1411
01:12:16,132 --> 01:12:18,167
and there it is.
1412
01:12:20,570 --> 01:12:25,308
Are they worried?
You doggone right, they are!
1413
01:12:25,341 --> 01:12:28,745
But the goal is greater
than fear.
1414
01:12:28,778 --> 01:12:32,315
[Barry] It's an
interesting combination
where you have Yvon,
1415
01:12:32,348 --> 01:12:34,317
the young Yosemite specialist,
1416
01:12:34,350 --> 01:12:36,620
apprentice to the master
mountain climber.
1417
01:12:36,653 --> 01:12:40,490
[vintage narrator]
Not many of us can endure
such a prolonged struggle.
1418
01:12:40,524 --> 01:12:44,961
But Yvon and Fred and Dan
keep their goal in mind.
1419
01:12:44,994 --> 01:12:48,131
[Fred] We knew we could
climb the peak as far
as the difficulty goes.
1420
01:12:48,164 --> 01:12:52,569
The danger is rock fall
and possible avalanches.
1421
01:12:52,602 --> 01:12:55,304
We had a bad lightning storm
that pretty much frightened us.
1422
01:12:55,338 --> 01:12:59,208
So, that night we bivouacked
500 feet below the summit.
1423
01:13:09,118 --> 01:13:12,155
[vintage narrator]
Suddenly, the struggle is over.
1424
01:13:12,188 --> 01:13:14,257
And they become the first men
in history
1425
01:13:14,290 --> 01:13:16,960
to climb the dangerous
North Face
1426
01:13:16,993 --> 01:13:19,629
of the summit
of Mt. Edith Cavell.
1427
01:13:19,663 --> 01:13:21,565
There'll be time to
congratulate themselves later,
1428
01:13:21,598 --> 01:13:24,000
when they return
to the everyday world
1429
01:13:24,033 --> 01:13:25,669
where congratulations matter.
1430
01:13:25,702 --> 01:13:27,370
[Yvon] We got back down,
1431
01:13:27,403 --> 01:13:29,673
and there was a note on our car
from the warden that said,
1432
01:13:29,706 --> 01:13:31,608
"Good work, boys."
1433
01:13:35,512 --> 01:13:37,280
[Fred] After we climbed
Edith Cavell,
1434
01:13:37,313 --> 01:13:39,215
Chouinard and I went
to the Bugaboos
1435
01:13:39,248 --> 01:13:41,618
and that's when
we had our eyes set
1436
01:13:41,651 --> 01:13:42,986
on the South Tower of Howser.
1437
01:13:43,019 --> 01:13:44,521
That's the ultimate
in climbing,
1438
01:13:44,554 --> 01:13:47,724
is to do a first descent
on a beautiful line.
1439
01:13:54,430 --> 01:13:56,165
[Conrad] Fred's
a climber's climber.
1440
01:13:56,199 --> 01:14:00,036
He chose to do good routes
that were challenging,
1441
01:14:00,069 --> 01:14:02,038
that were aesthetically
beautiful.
1442
01:14:02,071 --> 01:14:07,010
[Jim] He has an artist's eye
for the lines.
1443
01:14:07,043 --> 01:14:09,546
[Corey] What Fred has given
back to climbing
1444
01:14:09,579 --> 01:14:11,447
is thousands of routes.
1445
01:14:11,481 --> 01:14:13,316
[Jim] There's probably
no human being on the planet
1446
01:14:13,349 --> 01:14:15,384
that has more routes
named after him.
1447
01:14:15,418 --> 01:14:18,221
The Beckey this,
the Beckey that,
the Beckey Direct,
1448
01:14:18,254 --> 01:14:19,589
the Beckey... [laughs]
1449
01:14:19,623 --> 01:14:23,292
[Steve Gunn]
* Hey mister shadow wreck
1450
01:14:25,962 --> 01:14:29,265
* Cruel and dusted mind
1451
01:14:29,298 --> 01:14:31,568
[Jim] He was
a very good researcher,
1452
01:14:31,601 --> 01:14:33,202
which gave rise whether or not
1453
01:14:33,236 --> 01:14:35,539
this mythological notebook
actually exists.
1454
01:14:35,572 --> 01:14:39,108
[Todd] You've always heard
about this black book
that Fred Beckey has.
1455
01:14:39,142 --> 01:14:41,077
[Dave] Of all
the unclimbed peaks
1456
01:14:41,110 --> 01:14:42,612
that he still wanted to do.
1457
01:14:42,646 --> 01:14:44,614
[Peter] It's become legendary
in American climbing.
1458
01:14:44,648 --> 01:14:48,451
People whisper that somebody
found the black book.
1459
01:14:48,484 --> 01:14:49,553
[Todd] The black book...
1460
01:14:49,586 --> 01:14:50,754
[Fred] There's no black book.
1461
01:14:50,787 --> 01:14:53,222
That was in the haul bag
until Tehipite Dome.
1462
01:14:53,256 --> 01:14:54,223
No.
1463
01:14:54,257 --> 01:14:55,725
I don't know
of any black book.
1464
01:14:55,759 --> 01:14:57,426
I would never have put
a black book...
1465
01:14:57,460 --> 01:15:00,229
Why would I put a black book
in a haul bag?
1466
01:15:00,263 --> 01:15:02,431
I mean, it doesn't make sense.
People make up stories.
1467
01:15:02,465 --> 01:15:04,133
I've never had a black book.
1468
01:15:04,167 --> 01:15:06,135
[Alex] He didn't need
a black book.
1469
01:15:06,169 --> 01:15:10,607
He remembered every mountain
that he ever saw pictures of,
1470
01:15:10,640 --> 01:15:13,109
or climbed,
1471
01:15:13,142 --> 01:15:15,745
or from the summit looking over
to the next range.
1472
01:15:15,779 --> 01:15:17,446
He knew what
he wanted to climb,
1473
01:15:17,480 --> 01:15:21,184
and he remembered
those details.
1474
01:15:25,288 --> 01:15:26,723
[beep]
1475
01:15:26,756 --> 01:15:29,292
[Fred] Hey, listen.
I'm planning on heading down
1476
01:15:29,325 --> 01:15:31,227
for Russell and Whitney
in a few days.
1477
01:15:31,260 --> 01:15:34,497
But we wanted one more climber,
we need somebody,
1478
01:15:34,530 --> 01:15:36,432
but so far we've had no luck.
1479
01:15:36,465 --> 01:15:38,401
I've called about 35 people,
1480
01:15:38,434 --> 01:15:40,604
this is the only way
I can do it this year.
1481
01:15:40,637 --> 01:15:42,572
It's the only way.
1482
01:15:54,517 --> 01:15:56,319
[Yvon] The fact that he still
has these high standards
1483
01:15:56,352 --> 01:15:58,487
of routes that he wants to do,
1484
01:15:58,521 --> 01:16:02,258
and he's really, we all know
he's really not capable of
doing 'em.
1485
01:16:02,291 --> 01:16:07,363
I don't think it's ego,
I think he's just an idealist.
1486
01:16:12,035 --> 01:16:13,637
Fred loves the mountains.
1487
01:16:13,670 --> 01:16:16,139
And he still wants
that lifestyle
1488
01:16:16,172 --> 01:16:18,074
of having
his car full of gear,
1489
01:16:18,107 --> 01:16:19,676
just in case.
1490
01:16:22,646 --> 01:16:24,147
He's a climber.
1491
01:16:24,180 --> 01:16:28,251
He's not gonna give up
till his last breath.
1492
01:16:28,284 --> 01:16:32,021
[Jim] You know, you damn well
wouldn't want your kid,
1493
01:16:32,055 --> 01:16:33,156
to grow up to be Fred Beckey
1494
01:16:33,189 --> 01:16:35,725
because of
this exclusive focus,
1495
01:16:35,759 --> 01:16:39,562
this unnatural focus.
1496
01:16:39,595 --> 01:16:41,497
[Timothy]
Other people have moved on.
1497
01:16:41,530 --> 01:16:43,532
They had normal lives,
they had families,
1498
01:16:43,566 --> 01:16:46,502
they had wives,
they have grandkids now.
1499
01:16:46,535 --> 01:16:49,438
They have their place
in history. Fred never did.
1500
01:16:49,472 --> 01:16:52,709
In some cases,
he may be a sad lonely man
1501
01:16:52,742 --> 01:16:54,177
who doesn't have anything.
1502
01:16:54,210 --> 01:16:56,445
But I think he also
appreciates the fact
1503
01:16:56,479 --> 01:16:59,515
that he can still
do what most of us can't.
1504
01:17:05,121 --> 01:17:08,257
[Dave] There's almost
this morbid
1505
01:17:08,291 --> 01:17:11,961
fear of being the one
who's with Fred when he goes.
1506
01:17:11,995 --> 01:17:13,863
Am I gonna be the one
who's known
1507
01:17:13,897 --> 01:17:15,598
as the guy
who killed Fred Beckey?
1508
01:17:15,631 --> 01:17:19,102
-[Dave] I can grab
your pack, Fred.
-[Fred] Ah, that's OK, buddy.
1509
01:17:19,135 --> 01:17:20,569
I feel guilty.
1510
01:17:20,603 --> 01:17:22,672
[Dave] Hey, Fred!
1511
01:17:22,706 --> 01:17:25,975
-[Fred] I got a guilt trip.
-[Dave] No, the main thing is
that you get up high.
1512
01:17:26,009 --> 01:17:29,378
-It doesn't matter
how you get there.
-Yeah, it does.
1513
01:17:38,187 --> 01:17:40,223
[Yvon] When I see him,
I think, "Gosh,
1514
01:17:40,256 --> 01:17:43,492
he's so much smaller
than I remember."
1515
01:17:43,526 --> 01:17:47,163
I remember him being
so much taller and straight.
1516
01:17:47,196 --> 01:17:50,599
Now he's getting... you know...
1517
01:17:50,633 --> 01:17:53,169
Like all of us,
he's getting there.
1518
01:18:03,212 --> 01:18:04,647
[Dave] What do you think?
1519
01:18:04,680 --> 01:18:07,116
[Fred] I don't know, man.
1520
01:18:07,150 --> 01:18:09,385
Don't take movies of me, shit.
1521
01:18:11,154 --> 01:18:13,056
I used to just run up here.
1522
01:18:13,089 --> 01:18:15,091
Maybe not run but...
1523
01:18:23,232 --> 01:18:25,969
You better save your battery.
1524
01:18:26,002 --> 01:18:28,704
I'm aware that you're trying
to make a movie,
1525
01:18:28,738 --> 01:18:31,440
you want to get
some climbing footage?
1526
01:18:31,474 --> 01:18:34,210
You want to get a movie about
climbing, not backpacking.
1527
01:18:34,243 --> 01:18:37,080
Me walking uphill,
crossing creeks.
1528
01:18:37,113 --> 01:18:40,183
I mean, OK, but how much
of that is valuable?
1529
01:18:40,216 --> 01:18:41,684
I don't know.
1530
01:18:51,027 --> 01:18:53,496
[Dave] How you feeling, Fred?
1531
01:18:53,529 --> 01:18:55,431
I don't know.
1532
01:18:55,464 --> 01:18:58,367
I just...
1533
01:18:58,401 --> 01:19:00,669
Let me lay on my ass here
for a minute.
1534
01:19:00,703 --> 01:19:02,505
Fucking lungs.
1535
01:19:02,538 --> 01:19:04,107
I mean, fuck,
1536
01:19:04,140 --> 01:19:07,443
I can't believe it's taken
three days to get here.
1537
01:19:07,476 --> 01:19:11,514
I don't think I can
cut the climb, I got
no fuckin' energy.
1538
01:19:13,016 --> 01:19:15,351
We're goin' so fuckin' slow,
I'm embarrassed.
1539
01:19:15,384 --> 01:19:18,487
It's ridiculous.
1540
01:19:18,521 --> 01:19:21,190
I don't know
what the fuck is wrong.
1541
01:19:24,227 --> 01:19:27,163
Yeah, maybe we just
ought to might bail.
I don't know.
1542
01:19:27,196 --> 01:19:30,066
I just don't know
how I'm gonna feel.
1543
01:19:35,338 --> 01:19:40,243
I hate to do it.
It pisses me off.
1544
01:19:42,211 --> 01:19:45,348
-[Dave] Should we get going?
-Yeah.
1545
01:19:45,381 --> 01:19:48,084
It's probably the smartest move.
1546
01:19:48,117 --> 01:19:49,953
I never deliberate this much.
1547
01:19:49,986 --> 01:19:52,588
Either I'm gonna do something
or I don't do it.
1548
01:20:06,535 --> 01:20:09,205
[Steve] Well, I think today,
Fred, with his age,
1549
01:20:09,238 --> 01:20:11,107
that he keeps going,
and he's kind of living
1550
01:20:11,140 --> 01:20:15,511
on memories and living
on a dream,
1551
01:20:15,544 --> 01:20:17,213
that he can still do it.
1552
01:20:17,246 --> 01:20:19,415
I say more power to him.
1553
01:20:19,448 --> 01:20:23,252
You know, if he does fall off
a steep trail or something,
1554
01:20:23,286 --> 01:20:26,189
I don't think he'd have
it any other way.
1555
01:20:36,232 --> 01:20:39,435
It's hard to tell,
was he just driven
1556
01:20:39,468 --> 01:20:42,605
because through what he did
would become immortal in a way?
1557
01:20:42,638 --> 01:20:44,173
Which it will.
1558
01:20:52,648 --> 01:20:59,622
[people chattering]
1559
01:20:59,655 --> 01:21:01,690
Come on, be more like Beckey.
1560
01:21:09,165 --> 01:21:10,599
-Take care. Yeah.
-[man] Good to meet you.
1561
01:21:10,633 --> 01:21:12,568
-Don't lose the books.
-I won't, don't worry!
1562
01:21:12,601 --> 01:21:14,437
In recent years,
1563
01:21:14,470 --> 01:21:16,739
there have been a number of
people who have recognized him
1564
01:21:16,772 --> 01:21:20,176
for what he is,
the last of a dying breed
1565
01:21:20,209 --> 01:21:23,112
of wilderness explorers.
1566
01:21:31,487 --> 01:21:33,456
[cheering & applause]
1567
01:21:40,629 --> 01:21:42,198
[people laughing]
1568
01:21:56,679 --> 01:22:01,150
I was perfectly OK,
until about three years ago.
1569
01:22:01,184 --> 01:22:05,188
Up in the Canadian Rockies,
I started feeling funny.
1570
01:22:05,221 --> 01:22:07,690
Don't know what it is.
1571
01:22:07,723 --> 01:22:09,458
I'm probably lucky to be alive.
1572
01:22:09,492 --> 01:22:13,262
And I've got a whole rack
of medicines
1573
01:22:13,296 --> 01:22:18,101
that the doctor wishes I would
take, but I don't do it.
1574
01:22:18,134 --> 01:22:22,238
Everything from A to Z,
which probably- vitamins,
vitamin C,
1575
01:22:22,271 --> 01:22:25,341
which would probably help.
I probably should do it.
1576
01:22:25,374 --> 01:22:27,176
You want any candy?
1577
01:22:29,545 --> 01:22:32,048
Definitely get some donuts,
I like donuts.
1578
01:22:32,081 --> 01:22:33,282
Trying to gain some weight.
1579
01:22:33,316 --> 01:22:35,351
The best donuts are
the Canadian ones,
1580
01:22:35,384 --> 01:22:36,986
but they don't have 'em here.
1581
01:22:37,020 --> 01:22:39,055
Favorite kind of donuts
are jelly donuts,
1582
01:22:39,088 --> 01:22:43,292
some kind of raspberry or jelly
or something,
1583
01:22:43,326 --> 01:22:46,629
or those donuts that have
cream puff inside of 'em.
1584
01:22:46,662 --> 01:22:49,298
They're pretty good.
1585
01:22:49,332 --> 01:22:52,068
We're here
in Canyonlands National Park,
1586
01:22:52,101 --> 01:22:55,404
near the sight of Moses.
1587
01:22:55,438 --> 01:23:00,609
This is the first time
I've been back since 1972.
1588
01:23:00,643 --> 01:23:03,979
I welcome the chance to climb
in a different environment
1589
01:23:04,013 --> 01:23:07,083
and the Utah desert
is about as different,
1590
01:23:07,116 --> 01:23:08,284
from my background.
1591
01:23:08,317 --> 01:23:10,153
I thought
it was very beautiful.
1592
01:23:10,186 --> 01:23:11,720
And unusual, I-
1593
01:23:11,754 --> 01:23:15,258
it took me a while
to get used to the rock.
1594
01:23:24,767 --> 01:23:27,170
I used to come out here
for climbing practice.
1595
01:23:27,203 --> 01:23:31,507
I think I was one of
the earliest people
to climb on the rock.
1596
01:23:34,677 --> 01:23:36,545
[Conrad] Fred is sort of
alone here in the States,
1597
01:23:36,579 --> 01:23:40,349
and who's his family?
Who's his support network?
1598
01:23:40,383 --> 01:23:43,552
You need to have community
to stay healthy.
1599
01:23:43,586 --> 01:23:46,089
Fred's family is
the climbing community.
1600
01:23:46,122 --> 01:23:47,256
[beep]
1601
01:23:47,290 --> 01:23:50,025
Right now,
I have a driving problem--
1602
01:23:50,059 --> 01:23:52,561
the drivers license people
don't think I'm a good driver.
1603
01:23:52,595 --> 01:23:55,564
Maybe I'm not,
but I think I am but whatever.
1604
01:23:55,598 --> 01:23:57,533
It's difficult because
1605
01:23:57,566 --> 01:24:00,103
I'd like to get somebody to go
skiing with this weekend,
1606
01:24:00,136 --> 01:24:01,437
and I'm not even sure
who I have.
1607
01:24:01,470 --> 01:24:04,273
I may not be able
to find anyone.
1608
01:24:04,307 --> 01:24:07,643
Are we going ski touring
tomorrow on Blewett Pass...
1609
01:24:07,676 --> 01:24:11,747
Can you please call me back?
I hope this works out.
1610
01:24:11,780 --> 01:24:14,016
But do call me,
I'm waiting
1611
01:24:14,049 --> 01:24:16,719
and would like
to hear from you.
Bye Bye
1612
01:24:23,392 --> 01:24:26,462
You wanna go down by the beach?
1613
01:24:26,495 --> 01:24:30,133
My brother was two and a half
years younger than I was.
1614
01:24:30,166 --> 01:24:33,369
He did everything I did.
One time,
1615
01:24:33,402 --> 01:24:36,105
my brother and I found
a couple of logs,
1616
01:24:36,139 --> 01:24:38,006
and we nailed boards together
1617
01:24:38,040 --> 01:24:40,609
and we made kind of
a makeshift raft,
1618
01:24:40,643 --> 01:24:43,512
and then went and paddled
across over to Vashon Island.
1619
01:24:43,546 --> 01:24:48,484
[Helmy] We went a hell of
a long ways out.
1620
01:24:48,517 --> 01:24:53,956
freighters and ocean liners
would come along.
1621
01:24:53,989 --> 01:24:55,291
[Fred] One ship did come by.
1622
01:24:55,324 --> 01:24:58,594
This ship created
waves and wakes.
1623
01:24:58,627 --> 01:25:03,166
I was worried that it
might shake the raft apart.
1624
01:25:03,199 --> 01:25:05,968
It's about three miles
over to Vashon Island.
1625
01:25:06,001 --> 01:25:07,403
We stayed on the island
maybe a night.
1626
01:25:07,436 --> 01:25:10,005
We abandoned
the raft over there.
1627
01:25:10,038 --> 01:25:11,307
We took the ferry boat back.
1628
01:25:11,340 --> 01:25:14,343
I think maybe
we were pushing the limits.
1629
01:25:14,377 --> 01:25:17,079
I think we were
pushing our luck.
1630
01:25:17,112 --> 01:25:20,616
I sure wouldn't dream
of doing it today.
1631
01:25:20,649 --> 01:25:22,017
[Helmy] I don't talk to Fred,
you know,
1632
01:25:22,050 --> 01:25:25,053
'cause he's always
too hard to reach.
1633
01:25:25,087 --> 01:25:26,955
[Dave] Have you
talked to Helmy?
1634
01:25:26,989 --> 01:25:28,191
[Fred] I made a trip there,
1635
01:25:28,224 --> 01:25:30,058
we had some
communication problems.
1636
01:25:30,092 --> 01:25:33,095
He's having
a tough time hearing.
1637
01:25:33,128 --> 01:25:35,498
[Helmy] He came to visit,
you know, over here,
1638
01:25:35,531 --> 01:25:36,965
but not to see me,
1639
01:25:36,999 --> 01:25:39,302
but to go into the Dolomites.
1640
01:25:41,036 --> 01:25:42,738
He changed his lifestyle.
1641
01:25:42,771 --> 01:25:45,641
He's just totally interested
and immersed in music,
1642
01:25:45,674 --> 01:25:51,247
which is OK,
but I think he overdoes it.
1643
01:25:53,349 --> 01:25:56,485
[Helmy] I'm proud of him.
He's a real hero.
1644
01:25:56,519 --> 01:25:58,721
And he's the most modest
1645
01:25:58,754 --> 01:26:02,157
damn person in the world,
you know?
1646
01:26:02,191 --> 01:26:03,659
There must be
a lot of people
1647
01:26:03,692 --> 01:26:06,895
that are just plain
resentful or jealous...
1648
01:26:06,929 --> 01:26:09,398
'cause Fred is different,
you know?
1649
01:26:09,432 --> 01:26:11,133
[Fred]
Wanna pick up a duck?
1650
01:26:11,166 --> 01:26:13,502
[Dave laughs]
1651
01:26:13,536 --> 01:26:18,341
They either hate the guy
or fear him, or love him.
1652
01:26:21,109 --> 01:26:23,246
[Fred] I don't know
if I'm contributing.
1653
01:26:23,279 --> 01:26:25,113
I'm not sure I am.
1654
01:26:25,147 --> 01:26:27,283
I hope I'm contributing
a little bit
1655
01:26:27,316 --> 01:26:29,318
to mountaineering education,
1656
01:26:29,352 --> 01:26:32,255
people's knowledge
of the mountains.
1657
01:26:33,689 --> 01:26:35,057
I think the dirtbag thing,
1658
01:26:35,090 --> 01:26:37,159
I don't know
where it really started.
1659
01:26:37,192 --> 01:26:39,562
I don't feel
that I've been a dirtbag.
1660
01:26:39,595 --> 01:26:43,131
I've always had a car.
1661
01:26:43,165 --> 01:26:45,133
And I've always had a purpose.
1662
01:26:45,167 --> 01:26:47,202
The first ascents I've done,
1663
01:26:47,236 --> 01:26:49,438
going to Kate's Needle
and Devil's Thumb,
1664
01:26:49,472 --> 01:26:52,708
Mount Hunter, Mount Deborah
in Alaska. The Waddington trip
1665
01:26:52,741 --> 01:26:56,111
I don't think you could call
that dirtbagging.
1666
01:26:59,782 --> 01:27:02,951
[Dave] So, do you feel
like you did everything
you wanted to do?
1667
01:27:02,985 --> 01:27:04,353
[Fred] Never, no.
1668
01:27:04,387 --> 01:27:07,122
I just scratched the surface.
1669
01:27:07,155 --> 01:27:10,626
Obviously, with climbing,
it's endless.
1670
01:27:10,659 --> 01:27:12,361
You know, you can make
a hit list
1671
01:27:12,395 --> 01:27:15,331
of things that you want
to climb or places to visit.
1672
01:27:15,364 --> 01:27:17,966
I'd love to go to Majorca,
the islands in Greece,
1673
01:27:18,000 --> 01:27:19,335
I haven't even been to
Thailand.
1674
01:27:19,368 --> 01:27:21,270
And even in North America,
1675
01:27:21,304 --> 01:27:23,739
there are mountains
in Colorado, Wyoming,
1676
01:27:23,772 --> 01:27:27,310
Montana that I haven't even
climbed, Mexico,
1677
01:27:27,343 --> 01:27:30,379
all of South America,
I've never done anything there.
1678
01:27:30,413 --> 01:27:31,614
You can't do all these things.
1679
01:27:31,647 --> 01:27:33,316
But I don't regret
having done it,
1680
01:27:33,349 --> 01:27:35,684
it may be better to look
forward to it,
1681
01:27:35,718 --> 01:27:38,387
maybe I'll get there
sometime.
1682
01:27:38,421 --> 01:27:41,290
I'd like to unwind
and get younger,
1683
01:27:41,324 --> 01:27:43,892
but I guess nobody's
figured that out yet.
1684
01:27:43,926 --> 01:27:47,496
[Dave] You have any single
one thing you value
most in life,
1685
01:27:47,530 --> 01:27:50,165
-[Dave] that you value
the very most?
-[Fred] Stay alive.
1686
01:27:50,198 --> 01:27:52,067
[Todd laughs]
1687
01:27:54,770 --> 01:27:57,072
That's important.
1688
01:28:03,612 --> 01:28:06,582
[Timothy] When we study
individuals who break
the mold,
1689
01:28:06,615 --> 01:28:10,319
we should not just study
artists and scientists
1690
01:28:10,353 --> 01:28:12,988
and authors and architects.
1691
01:28:13,021 --> 01:28:16,058
We should include Fred Beckey
among them.
1692
01:28:16,091 --> 01:28:17,660
Beckey was
trained classically,
1693
01:28:17,693 --> 01:28:20,529
but then he just
smashed the model.
1694
01:28:20,563 --> 01:28:24,066
Sometimes it just calls
for a single-minded bastard.
1695
01:28:26,068 --> 01:28:29,572
[Alex] So many of us grow up
and are stuck in dead end jobs
1696
01:28:29,605 --> 01:28:31,273
and can't get out of 'em.
1697
01:28:31,306 --> 01:28:35,210
You see this person
who has pursued his passion
1698
01:28:35,243 --> 01:28:36,745
and has pursued
it passionately.
1699
01:28:36,779 --> 01:28:38,747
And we all know instinctively,
1700
01:28:38,781 --> 01:28:40,383
that's what I should have done
1701
01:28:40,416 --> 01:28:43,051
from the time
I was 18 years old.
1702
01:28:44,687 --> 01:28:48,591
[Fred] You know, I could
say to heck with it
and go play golf.
1703
01:28:48,624 --> 01:28:50,158
Take up cards.
1704
01:28:50,192 --> 01:28:52,194
Sit around the picnic table.
1705
01:28:52,227 --> 01:28:55,698
It's a lot more fun,
a lot easier.
1706
01:28:55,731 --> 01:28:58,467
But I guess I have
a certain amount of motivation
1707
01:28:58,501 --> 01:29:00,736
or drive to go out
and do these things.
1708
01:29:00,769 --> 01:29:03,038
Why, I can't explain it.
1709
01:29:03,071 --> 01:29:05,574
I'd rather do something
than do nothing.
1710
01:29:05,608 --> 01:29:06,975
Put it that way.
1711
01:29:07,009 --> 01:29:09,712
-[wind blowing]
-[panting]
1712
01:29:12,214 --> 01:29:14,249
[Jeff screams] Come on,
Fred, get up there!
1713
01:29:16,184 --> 01:29:17,653
-[Dave] Yeah, do it!
-Yes!
1714
01:29:17,686 --> 01:29:21,289
Yeah! Woo! Yeah, buddy!
1715
01:29:22,290 --> 01:29:24,192
Nice, Fred!
1716
01:29:27,229 --> 01:29:29,197
[Fred] Lots of fun.
1717
01:29:29,231 --> 01:29:31,467
[Vasiliki] What I believe
about most people
1718
01:29:31,500 --> 01:29:34,903
is as they get older,
they don't necessarily
get any wiser.
1719
01:29:34,937 --> 01:29:36,405
In fact, rarely.
1720
01:29:36,439 --> 01:29:39,408
They just become more so
what they've always been.
1721
01:29:39,442 --> 01:29:43,078
And I think, probably,
with Fred, it's the same thing.
1722
01:29:43,111 --> 01:29:45,380
He is...
1723
01:29:45,414 --> 01:29:47,149
...etched in stone.
1724
01:30:03,499 --> 01:30:06,101
[music playing]
1725
01:30:44,640 --> 01:30:47,943
[Steve Gunn]
* There's a constant motion
1726
01:30:47,976 --> 01:30:52,981
* Makes you feel
like the ocean *
1727
01:30:53,015 --> 01:30:56,885
* Hey there nature driver man
1728
01:30:56,919 --> 01:31:00,288
* You are a welcome guest
1729
01:31:01,690 --> 01:31:05,093
* Man with that wicked eye
1730
01:31:05,127 --> 01:31:08,631
* Will lead you to your rest
1731
01:31:09,632 --> 01:31:12,400
* Moving through the seasons
1732
01:31:12,434 --> 01:31:16,772
* And I'm hoping for the best
1733
01:31:16,805 --> 01:31:19,407
I remember once climbing
at Cal Dome with Fred Beckey,
1734
01:31:19,441 --> 01:31:23,478
and there was this swarm of
bees up ahead on the trail.
1735
01:31:23,512 --> 01:31:25,013
So we all shouted to Fred,
1736
01:31:25,047 --> 01:31:27,215
"Hey, Fred, you know,
there's bees up there!"
1737
01:31:27,249 --> 01:31:30,919
You know,
Fred couldn't hear shit,
"What?"
1738
01:31:30,953 --> 01:31:32,821
And he walked
right through the bees,
1739
01:31:32,855 --> 01:31:34,422
and, you know,
one or two must have stung him,
1740
01:31:34,456 --> 01:31:36,592
and he kind of
just like slapped himself
1741
01:31:36,625 --> 01:31:38,493
and grunted
and just kept on walking.
1742
01:31:38,527 --> 01:31:40,462
And all the other guys
were like,
1743
01:31:40,495 --> 01:31:42,731
"Fuck that, we're not gonna
walk through the bees."
1744
01:31:42,765 --> 01:31:44,299
So, they start, like,
1745
01:31:44,332 --> 01:31:46,334
bushwhacking
to cut the switchback,
1746
01:31:46,368 --> 01:31:49,404
and I sort of in my own mind,
I thought,
1747
01:31:49,437 --> 01:31:51,640
"Man, if Fred Beckey's
like eighty-something
years old.
1748
01:31:51,674 --> 01:31:53,375
If that guy
can walk through the bees,
1749
01:31:53,408 --> 01:31:54,743
I'm gonna walk
through the fuckin' bees.
1750
01:31:54,777 --> 01:31:57,746
Like, I'm pretty tough,
it's no big deal."
1751
01:31:57,780 --> 01:32:00,048
So, I start marching
up through the bees,
1752
01:32:00,082 --> 01:32:02,918
and a bee went
right up my shorts
1753
01:32:02,951 --> 01:32:05,153
and just got me
right in the scrotum.
1754
01:32:05,187 --> 01:32:07,122
and I just couldn't...
1755
01:32:07,155 --> 01:32:10,258
There was nothing you could do.
I mean, it's a natural
reaction.
1756
01:32:10,292 --> 01:32:12,695
I ripped my shorts off
and I'm trying to kill the bee,
1757
01:32:12,728 --> 01:32:15,564
and all the guys are
like laughing hysterically,
1758
01:32:15,598 --> 01:32:17,132
like, they just think
it's the funniest thing.
1759
01:32:17,165 --> 01:32:18,634
And it really hurt.
1760
01:32:18,667 --> 01:32:22,037
And Fred's
completely oblivious.
1761
01:32:22,070 --> 01:32:24,506
We get to the base of the crag
about 20 minutes later,
1762
01:32:24,539 --> 01:32:28,410
and I say to Fred, "Did you
get stung by any bees?"
1763
01:32:28,443 --> 01:32:29,745
"What?"
1764
01:32:29,778 --> 01:32:31,880
"Bees, like,
did any bees sting you?"
1765
01:32:31,914 --> 01:32:33,616
"I dunno. Maybe, maybe."
1766
01:32:33,649 --> 01:32:35,751
And looked at his hand
and there was, like,
a stinger
1767
01:32:35,784 --> 01:32:38,020
still in his hand,
and I just thought,
1768
01:32:38,053 --> 01:32:40,155
"Goddamn, like, this guy,
1769
01:32:40,188 --> 01:32:41,690
he is so passionate
1770
01:32:41,724 --> 01:32:43,525
and so freakin' tough.
1771
01:32:43,558 --> 01:32:46,228
And that other stuff,
like pain,
1772
01:32:46,261 --> 01:32:48,463
doesn't affect him,
apparently."
1773
01:32:48,496 --> 01:32:52,067
[Steve Gunn]
* Highway is fully stacked, *
1774
01:32:52,267 --> 01:32:55,070
* think we'll turn around.
1775
01:32:56,071 --> 01:32:59,942
* Go down another road
1776
01:32:59,975 --> 01:33:03,478
* and through a
different town. *
1777
01:33:04,980 --> 01:33:08,050
* Feel the direction like
1778
01:33:08,550 --> 01:33:12,120
* a rock upon the moon.
1779
01:33:13,121 --> 01:33:16,258
* Come on the overpass
1780
01:33:16,291 --> 01:33:19,995
* and hope to get there soon.
1781
01:33:21,196 --> 01:33:24,032
* Hope to get there soon.
1782
01:33:24,066 --> 01:33:25,668
When he said,
"I really wanna climb
1783
01:33:25,701 --> 01:33:27,569
the East Buttress on Whitney."
1784
01:33:27,602 --> 01:33:29,104
I was like, "Well, why not?
1785
01:33:29,137 --> 01:33:30,673
The guy's a legend,
let's go have a good time."
1786
01:33:30,706 --> 01:33:32,607
And as we're going
down there, he's like,
1787
01:33:32,641 --> 01:33:34,476
"I think I've got it this time,
I can climb,
1788
01:33:34,509 --> 01:33:37,279
it's just, I have trouble
sleeping at altitude."
1789
01:33:37,312 --> 01:33:39,414
And being a problem solver,
I'm already thinking,
1790
01:33:39,447 --> 01:33:43,085
"well, how can I help this guy
achieve his dreams?"
1791
01:33:43,118 --> 01:33:45,120
And so, the first day
we hike up,
1792
01:33:45,153 --> 01:33:47,122
and we get to camp that night
and it's cold,
1793
01:33:47,155 --> 01:33:49,992
and he pulls out
this inappropriately
light sleeping bag,
1794
01:33:50,025 --> 01:33:51,626
with a tiny little
Therm-a-Rest.
1795
01:33:51,660 --> 01:33:53,095
Like, the guy's
not gonna sleep.
1796
01:33:53,128 --> 01:33:54,697
I couldn't
sleep in that thing.
1797
01:33:54,730 --> 01:33:57,365
Every so often, if people have
trouble sleeping at altitude,
1798
01:33:57,399 --> 01:33:59,301
you know, a little sleeping
pill kind of helps.
1799
01:33:59,334 --> 01:34:01,870
So, I grind up a little bit
of this
1800
01:34:01,904 --> 01:34:03,571
sleeping tablet into his tea,
and he drinks it,
1801
01:34:03,605 --> 01:34:05,373
and I don't tell him
anything about it.
1802
01:34:05,407 --> 01:34:07,342
We wake up the next morning,
and he's like,
1803
01:34:07,375 --> 01:34:12,114
"Dave, I feel great,
I'm ready to charge!"
1804
01:34:13,448 --> 01:34:16,151
So that night, there was no
appropriate time
1805
01:34:16,184 --> 01:34:17,753
to slip him the mickey.
1806
01:34:17,786 --> 01:34:19,421
So, I said, "Fred,
I've got a confession,
1807
01:34:19,454 --> 01:34:21,656
I put a little sleeping pill
in your tea last night,
1808
01:34:21,690 --> 01:34:23,959
and that's probably
why you slept well,
1809
01:34:23,992 --> 01:34:25,560
we should do it."
And he's like, "What!"
1810
01:34:25,593 --> 01:34:28,363
He was just convinced that,
that's not the thing to do.
1811
01:34:28,396 --> 01:34:31,266
So, he didn't sleep a wink,
woke up miserable,
1812
01:34:31,299 --> 01:34:35,070
and we didn't get a chance
to climb Mt. Whitney that trip.
1813
01:34:35,103 --> 01:34:36,504
Dave Nettle had given me
a great tip,
1814
01:34:36,538 --> 01:34:38,707
Just sneak a little bit of,
like, a sleeping pill
1815
01:34:38,741 --> 01:34:40,375
into Fred's drink,
1816
01:34:40,408 --> 01:34:42,044
Sure enough, gave it to Fred
and watched him get drowsy
1817
01:34:42,077 --> 01:34:43,678
and then, you know, got him
into his sleeping bag
1818
01:34:43,712 --> 01:34:48,516
and, it sounds like I'm drug-
like we drugged the guy, but
1819
01:34:48,550 --> 01:34:50,285
um... well, we kinda did.
1820
01:34:50,318 --> 01:34:53,722
But the point is, he jumped up
that morning, he was refreshed,
1821
01:34:53,756 --> 01:34:56,524
he slept well, put his pack on,
hiked up to the base
1822
01:34:56,558 --> 01:34:58,460
and climbed
the East Face of Mt. Whitney.
1823
01:34:58,493 --> 01:35:00,963
[Steve Gunn]
* There's a constant motion
1824
01:35:00,996 --> 01:35:05,567
* Makes you feel
like the ocean *
1825
01:35:05,600 --> 01:35:09,805
* Hey there nature driver man
1826
01:35:09,838 --> 01:35:13,141
* You are a welcome guest
70306
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