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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 947 00:50:30,495 --> 00:50:33,631 why he didn't stay with him or bring him down? 948 00:50:36,234 --> 00:50:39,137 After this thing, things changed. 949 00:50:46,111 --> 00:50:49,480 [Nick Clinch] It's a huge difference between second guessing somebody 950 00:50:49,514 --> 00:50:52,183 and being there 951 00:50:52,217 --> 00:50:54,552 when you have got to make that decision. 952 00:50:54,585 --> 00:50:58,256 You have got to do this, and these are the factors. 953 00:51:24,149 --> 00:51:26,617 [Jim] The first time I heard about Fred was, 954 00:51:26,651 --> 00:51:28,085 I was just a young kid. 955 00:51:28,119 --> 00:51:30,655 He was a little different but, you know, 956 00:51:30,688 --> 00:51:34,225 nature is diverse and so is humanity. 957 00:51:36,060 --> 00:51:40,231 My life was more, I guess you would say, structured. 958 00:51:40,265 --> 00:51:42,133 And I would definitely say 959 00:51:42,167 --> 00:51:45,336 that Fred's life was unstructured. 960 00:51:47,372 --> 00:51:48,773 [Timothy] His contemporaries, they founded companies, 961 00:51:48,806 --> 00:51:50,708 they were like movie stars for a while, 962 00:51:50,741 --> 00:51:52,777 they were glamorous. 963 00:51:52,810 --> 00:51:56,046 They were like the astronauts of mountaineering, 964 00:51:56,080 --> 00:51:58,048 and Beckey was left out. 965 00:51:58,082 --> 00:52:00,951 [Tom] To imagine Fred being the first American to climb Everest 966 00:52:00,985 --> 00:52:05,523 and substituting him for Whittaker 967 00:52:05,556 --> 00:52:07,325 I can't imagine Fred 968 00:52:07,358 --> 00:52:11,229 to be the... the sort of the public persona 969 00:52:11,262 --> 00:52:13,030 of the expedition. 970 00:52:13,063 --> 00:52:17,435 It's a hell of a responsibility and I'm glad it was Jim 971 00:52:17,468 --> 00:52:21,206 who I think could manage it and thrived on it. 972 00:52:21,239 --> 00:52:23,608 [Helmy] Who was Whittaker other than he climbed Everest? 973 00:52:23,641 --> 00:52:27,345 But these are guys that get to talk to the President of the USA, 974 00:52:27,378 --> 00:52:29,647 and are big heroes, you know, 975 00:52:29,680 --> 00:52:32,250 because they're the first Americans to climb Mt. Everest. 976 00:52:32,283 --> 00:52:34,585 [Jim] I was never attracted to any dirtbag style 977 00:52:34,619 --> 00:52:36,787 I wasn't that far out of the box. 978 00:52:36,821 --> 00:52:38,756 My whole life wasn't climbing. 979 00:52:38,789 --> 00:52:42,493 It was Fred's whole life, actually. 980 00:52:42,527 --> 00:52:44,729 I would have liked to have gone... 981 00:52:44,762 --> 00:52:48,065 I'm sure. But, since I wasn't invited, 982 00:52:48,098 --> 00:52:50,401 all right, so you weren't. You know, sorry. 983 00:52:50,435 --> 00:52:52,102 Sorry. 984 00:52:54,739 --> 00:52:56,173 [Timothy] There's these pivot points in life 985 00:52:56,207 --> 00:52:58,042 where you could go one way or the other. 986 00:52:58,075 --> 00:52:59,544 Beckey had about 10 of them, 987 00:52:59,577 --> 00:53:03,314 and at every turn, he stayed in the climber bum, 988 00:53:03,348 --> 00:53:05,716 dirtbag lane, he never turned off. 989 00:53:05,750 --> 00:53:08,152 He never took the exit to respectability, 990 00:53:08,185 --> 00:53:11,055 he never took the exit to an easy life 991 00:53:11,088 --> 00:53:14,492 he never took the exit to branding Fred Beckey. 992 00:53:14,525 --> 00:53:15,626 Would he have liked to? 993 00:53:15,660 --> 00:53:19,196 I mean, the proof is in the life. 994 00:53:19,230 --> 00:53:21,098 [Fred] Can't say I've had any regrets, 995 00:53:21,131 --> 00:53:22,667 at least I haven't thought about it. 996 00:53:22,700 --> 00:53:25,436 I really don't like to dwell back on the background. 997 00:53:25,470 --> 00:53:29,106 You did what you did, forget it. You know, look forward 998 00:53:29,139 --> 00:53:32,643 to something new. 999 00:53:32,677 --> 00:53:35,646 [Conrad] So, he missed out on these big expeditions 1000 00:53:35,680 --> 00:53:39,450 and these trips at the time were what professional climbers were doing. 1001 00:53:39,484 --> 00:53:41,552 You were either part of one of these big trips 1002 00:53:41,586 --> 00:53:44,289 or you were out there forging your own path. 1003 00:53:44,322 --> 00:53:48,092 And Fred was forging his own path. 1004 00:53:48,125 --> 00:53:53,398 [Alex] While the Everest expedition spent a whole season climbing one peak 1005 00:53:53,431 --> 00:53:56,501 and only a handful made it to the top, 1006 00:53:56,534 --> 00:54:00,104 Fred spent the same amount of time 1007 00:54:00,137 --> 00:54:05,510 doing dozens of first ascents all over North America. 1008 00:54:05,543 --> 00:54:08,178 [Timothy] You could take, in isolation, 1009 00:54:08,212 --> 00:54:10,315 probably a dozen Beckey peaks. 1010 00:54:10,348 --> 00:54:13,384 Any of those dozen would make a career. 1011 00:54:13,418 --> 00:54:16,621 But then, expand that by a factor of ten, 1012 00:54:16,654 --> 00:54:19,490 and Beckey was just knocking them off one after the other. 1013 00:54:19,524 --> 00:54:22,727 It was like, tell me a place that's unclimbable, 1014 00:54:22,760 --> 00:54:25,630 and I'll be there on Saturday. 1015 00:54:25,663 --> 00:54:28,198 He was astonishing people. 1016 00:54:30,100 --> 00:54:31,436 [Ed Cooper] In those early days, 1017 00:54:31,469 --> 00:54:35,506 Fred seemed to be climbing almost all the time. 1018 00:54:35,540 --> 00:54:38,543 In fact, many of us wondered where he got all the money 1019 00:54:38,576 --> 00:54:42,413 because he never seemed to have a job or work. 1020 00:54:42,447 --> 00:54:47,418 [Don] No one really knew much about how he made his living 1021 00:54:47,452 --> 00:54:48,719 or what he did. 1022 00:54:48,753 --> 00:54:50,254 [Yvon] He had no money, I mean, he was working, 1023 00:54:50,721 --> 00:54:54,525 I think as a paper salesman in those days... 1024 00:54:54,559 --> 00:54:56,461 [Eric] When I first met him, he sold insurance 1025 00:54:56,494 --> 00:54:59,530 and he usually had a company car... 1026 00:54:59,564 --> 00:55:00,598 [Steve] He didn't work at all. 1027 00:55:00,631 --> 00:55:03,100 I don't know quite how he did it. 1028 00:55:05,736 --> 00:55:07,338 Then the big rumor... 1029 00:55:07,372 --> 00:55:10,508 came along, there was this plane crash on Slesse, 1030 00:55:10,541 --> 00:55:14,479 and the rumor was that there was all this gold aboard. 1031 00:55:14,512 --> 00:55:18,649 Fred was trying to get people to go into Slesse with him. 1032 00:55:18,683 --> 00:55:21,386 Some of us began to think, well, you know, 1033 00:55:21,419 --> 00:55:24,389 maybe he actually got in there and got hold of that money. 1034 00:55:24,422 --> 00:55:27,124 And that's why he was able to, you know, 1035 00:55:27,157 --> 00:55:30,628 spend all his time climbing. 1036 00:55:30,661 --> 00:55:35,299 [Alex] He put away money, and we never will find out 1037 00:55:35,332 --> 00:55:38,302 how much, but he put it away in stocks... 1038 00:55:38,335 --> 00:55:40,705 [Fred] How much do I have on the market? 1039 00:55:43,107 --> 00:55:45,610 That's all? 1040 00:55:45,643 --> 00:55:48,546 Well, I can't buy anything with that. 1041 00:55:48,579 --> 00:55:50,515 OK, great, Thanks. 1042 00:55:50,548 --> 00:55:52,983 How about this macaroni and cheese? 1043 00:55:53,017 --> 00:55:56,621 [Dave] What do you say when someone asks you what do you do for a living? 1044 00:55:56,654 --> 00:55:58,322 [Fred] It depends who it is. 1045 00:55:58,355 --> 00:56:00,925 If I don't want to talk to that person, I just tell 'em, "Adios." 1046 00:56:00,958 --> 00:56:03,561 None of their fucking business! 1047 00:56:03,594 --> 00:56:05,696 [Timothy] When I got to know him, he was sort of twitchy 1048 00:56:05,730 --> 00:56:09,634 whenever he was at sea level. He doesn't do well 1049 00:56:09,667 --> 00:56:11,769 when he's not in thin air. 1050 00:56:11,802 --> 00:56:13,538 Yeah, I wish they'd make the law, 1051 00:56:13,571 --> 00:56:16,240 "Car first. Pedestrians, fuck 'em." 1052 00:56:16,273 --> 00:56:20,611 Like China, Bangkok or Europe. 1053 00:56:20,645 --> 00:56:22,680 Here, the fuckin' people walk out across street 1054 00:56:22,713 --> 00:56:24,314 and don't even look! 1055 00:56:24,348 --> 00:56:25,716 [Timothy] It's like he was in prison or something 1056 00:56:25,750 --> 00:56:27,184 when he was in the city. 1057 00:56:27,217 --> 00:56:29,053 The mountains are the only thing 1058 00:56:29,086 --> 00:56:30,821 that made him comfortable. 1059 00:56:33,591 --> 00:56:36,360 -[beep] -[Fred] Hey, this is Beckey. Can you rent a car? 1060 00:56:36,393 --> 00:56:38,328 But we've got to get out of here. 1061 00:56:38,362 --> 00:56:40,130 The weather might come in on Sunday, 1062 00:56:40,164 --> 00:56:41,999 and it'll fuck the whole damn trip up. 1063 00:56:42,032 --> 00:56:44,001 -[beep] -Beckey again! 1064 00:56:44,034 --> 00:56:45,536 I called you over and over. 1065 00:56:45,570 --> 00:56:48,072 The whole trip is not going to work unless we get going. 1066 00:56:48,105 --> 00:56:49,273 [beep] 1067 00:56:49,306 --> 00:56:51,341 Hey, this is a crisis. This is Fred. 1068 00:56:51,375 --> 00:56:55,480 You have got to be here on the 12th, on Saturday! 1069 00:56:55,513 --> 00:56:56,681 That was our agreement! 1070 00:56:56,714 --> 00:56:59,684 You cannot be here as late as Monday! 1071 00:56:59,717 --> 00:57:03,153 We are losing the whole weekend. 1072 00:57:03,187 --> 00:57:05,289 [Rick Ridgeway] He called me up couple weeks ago 1073 00:57:05,322 --> 00:57:07,424 to check in on how the book was coming along, 1074 00:57:07,458 --> 00:57:09,960 and I said, "Well, how are you coming along on the climbs?" 1075 00:57:09,994 --> 00:57:12,262 He said, "Oh, I got weathered off last year, but I'm getting all geared up, 1076 00:57:12,296 --> 00:57:16,467 we'll get it done. We'll get it done before press time." 1077 00:57:16,501 --> 00:57:18,469 [Fred] Don't take movies of me, I look kind of ugly this morning. 1078 00:57:18,503 --> 00:57:20,905 [Jeff Wenger] Ah, you look great. 1079 00:57:20,938 --> 00:57:23,340 -[Jeff] Hey! -[Fred] Anybody want agua? 1080 00:57:23,373 --> 00:57:25,576 -[Jeff] Sure, I'll have a little. -[Fred] Yeah, it's free. 1081 00:57:25,610 --> 00:57:29,346 -[Jeff] How many times have you been up here? -[Fred] Too many. 1082 00:57:29,379 --> 00:57:32,049 Just, things just haven't clicked. 1083 00:57:32,082 --> 00:57:34,585 Sometimes my fault, 1084 00:57:34,619 --> 00:57:36,420 sometimes the weather. 1085 00:57:42,392 --> 00:57:44,194 OK. 1086 00:57:45,530 --> 00:57:49,567 [breathing heavily] 1087 00:57:59,544 --> 00:58:01,378 Good lead. 1088 00:58:04,248 --> 00:58:06,183 I'm not doing very well. 1089 00:58:07,417 --> 00:58:09,119 Shitty. 1090 00:58:09,153 --> 00:58:11,455 [Todd] I do see Fred get really defeated 1091 00:58:11,488 --> 00:58:15,660 by not physically being able to do it, because mentally he still 1092 00:58:15,693 --> 00:58:18,162 thinks of being able to climb this stuff. 1093 00:58:18,195 --> 00:58:21,198 He still wants to climb Lucky Streaks, and believes he can. 1094 00:58:21,231 --> 00:58:24,034 Hope I climb better than this tomorrow. 1095 00:58:24,068 --> 00:58:25,502 Fuck. 1096 00:58:27,605 --> 00:58:30,775 I didn't set any speed records on that, man. 1097 00:58:30,808 --> 00:58:32,242 Kind of fun, though. 1098 00:58:32,276 --> 00:58:34,779 Hope I didn't embarrass you guys too much. 1099 00:58:34,812 --> 00:58:36,346 [Jeff] You did great, man. 1100 00:58:36,380 --> 00:58:38,515 I don't know, I feel a little clumsy. 1101 00:58:42,620 --> 00:58:46,390 [Todd] Very quickly after the defeat and the self doubt 1102 00:58:46,423 --> 00:58:48,325 he's real quick to just turn right back around 1103 00:58:48,358 --> 00:58:54,231 and somehow just erase all that from his brain and start fresh 1104 00:58:54,264 --> 00:58:56,066 that he wants to climb Lucky Streaks again. 1105 00:58:56,100 --> 00:58:58,368 Ah, maybe I'll go back next year, we'll see. 1106 00:58:58,402 --> 00:59:01,606 If I do, I think I'm just gonna go up and climb 1107 00:59:01,639 --> 00:59:04,975 three pitches and just bail out. Fuck it. 1108 00:59:05,009 --> 00:59:07,011 [Jim] One thing about alpine climbing-- 1109 00:59:07,044 --> 00:59:11,081 if you can't handle rejection or failure, 1110 00:59:11,115 --> 00:59:12,516 don't even go there. 1111 00:59:12,549 --> 00:59:13,684 [music playing] 1112 00:59:13,718 --> 00:59:15,620 [Jim] We were in Bishop, California. 1113 00:59:15,653 --> 00:59:17,221 It was a Saturday night, 1114 00:59:17,254 --> 00:59:19,156 and we all went to a country western bar, 1115 00:59:19,189 --> 00:59:20,524 and there were lot of women. 1116 00:59:20,557 --> 00:59:22,126 Fred's there, and there's this table 1117 00:59:22,159 --> 00:59:25,630 with about nine attractive women in their, maybe thirties. 1118 00:59:25,663 --> 00:59:27,965 He'd go over, and he'd tap one on the shoulder, 1119 00:59:27,998 --> 00:59:29,266 and she'd look up at him, 1120 00:59:29,299 --> 00:59:30,768 you know, he's 35 years older and... 1121 00:59:30,801 --> 00:59:33,137 "Hey, uh, hey, would you like to dance?" 1122 00:59:33,170 --> 00:59:35,105 And, "No." 1123 00:59:35,139 --> 00:59:37,574 And then, "Ok." You know, he'd go to the next one, 1124 00:59:38,809 --> 00:59:40,778 "Hey, how about you, would you like to dance?" 1125 00:59:40,811 --> 00:59:42,279 "I don't think so." 1126 00:59:42,312 --> 00:59:43,714 But he went right around the table to, 1127 00:59:43,748 --> 00:59:45,315 about the fifth or sixth one, 1128 00:59:45,349 --> 00:59:47,184 and the most attractive even. 1129 00:59:47,217 --> 00:59:48,452 And she said, "Sure, I'll dance." 1130 00:59:48,485 --> 00:59:50,254 And they went up, and they disappeared, 1131 00:59:50,287 --> 00:59:53,758 and we never saw him again for three days. [chuckles] 1132 00:59:53,791 --> 00:59:55,459 Persistence pays off. 1133 00:59:55,492 --> 00:59:57,027 [Fred] Something like that? 1134 00:59:57,061 --> 00:59:58,262 -Yeah. It's good. -[Annie Musselman] Yeah. 1135 00:59:58,295 --> 00:59:59,329 [camera shutter clicks] 1136 00:59:59,363 --> 01:00:02,099 You want me to smile or grouch or... 1137 01:00:02,132 --> 01:00:05,069 [woman laughing] 1138 01:00:05,102 --> 01:00:07,337 [laughing] You're great. 1139 01:00:07,371 --> 01:00:11,175 -[Fred] You're tall, what are you, 5'8"? 5'9"? 5'8". -[Annie] 5'8", yeah, and a half. 1140 01:00:11,208 --> 01:00:13,510 [Fred] You haven't done any rock climbing at all? 1141 01:00:13,543 --> 01:00:16,280 -[Fred] It's all right. -[Annie] Kinda scary. 1142 01:00:16,313 --> 01:00:18,082 -[Fred] Yeah, sorta. -[Annie] You don't think? 1143 01:00:18,115 --> 01:00:20,050 -[Fred] It is scary. -[Annie] Yeah. 1144 01:00:20,084 --> 01:00:21,518 [Fred] But lots of of other things are scary. 1145 01:00:21,551 --> 01:00:23,620 [Annie] Yeah, that's true. 1146 01:00:25,422 --> 01:00:27,324 [Corey] Fred Beckey in his late 80s 1147 01:00:27,357 --> 01:00:30,327 is more motivated for expeditions 1148 01:00:30,360 --> 01:00:33,597 and has more ideas for what he would like to climb 1149 01:00:33,630 --> 01:00:35,365 than any other climber, 1150 01:00:35,399 --> 01:00:37,501 and it's because he's thinking about this stuff 1151 01:00:37,534 --> 01:00:41,405 24/7 for 80-plus years. 1152 01:00:41,438 --> 01:00:44,574 [Yvon] Still now, he's not staying in motels, 1153 01:00:44,608 --> 01:00:46,677 he's sleeping on the side of the road 1154 01:00:46,711 --> 01:00:48,612 and hasn't changed at all. 1155 01:00:48,645 --> 01:00:51,348 [Fred] OK. 1156 01:00:51,381 --> 01:00:52,750 I guess we're out of here. 1157 01:00:52,783 --> 01:00:56,253 I probably won't get back till July 12, 14th, maybe. 1158 01:00:56,286 --> 01:00:58,622 -[Dave] Mm-hmm. -I'm not sure, you know. 1159 01:01:05,162 --> 01:01:06,596 [Barry] One way you knew you made 1160 01:01:06,630 --> 01:01:09,233 the North American climbing landscape 1161 01:01:09,266 --> 01:01:11,368 was you'd get your first Fred Beckey phone calls... 1162 01:01:11,401 --> 01:01:13,203 [beep] 1163 01:01:13,237 --> 01:01:15,339 [Fred] Fred Beckey, let's get together on a climb. 1164 01:01:15,372 --> 01:01:17,407 Actually I'm taking off, I hope today. 1165 01:01:17,441 --> 01:01:19,609 I'm trying to get something together to go to Canada... 1166 01:01:19,643 --> 01:01:21,078 Yeah, I'm hot to go on this thing 1167 01:01:21,111 --> 01:01:22,346 as soon as we can get mobilized. 1168 01:01:22,379 --> 01:01:24,281 [Don] In a way, you look forward 1169 01:01:24,314 --> 01:01:26,150 to communications with Fred, 1170 01:01:26,183 --> 01:01:28,218 and in a way you looked a little bit with dread 1171 01:01:28,252 --> 01:01:30,420 at the next time he's going to give you a call. 1172 01:01:30,454 --> 01:01:34,391 Right now, I don't know what I'm doing except tomorrow. 1173 01:01:34,424 --> 01:01:36,727 I have no idea. 1174 01:01:36,761 --> 01:01:38,662 Are you in Alaska? 1175 01:01:38,695 --> 01:01:41,065 OK, you just got back? 1176 01:01:41,098 --> 01:01:43,567 I've been trying to get hold of you, as you probably know. 1177 01:01:43,600 --> 01:01:47,537 [Steve] He was persuasive, yeah. He'd get you the phone. 1178 01:01:47,571 --> 01:01:50,607 He'd analyze the weather-- the "weddah," as he called it. 1179 01:01:50,640 --> 01:01:52,977 [Fred] Called the weather man, it's supposed to be good. 1180 01:01:53,010 --> 01:01:54,478 What do you think of this awful summer weather? 1181 01:01:54,511 --> 01:01:56,046 I was trying to call Canada today 1182 01:01:56,080 --> 01:01:58,482 and I may call some ranger up there like the ice fields 1183 01:01:58,515 --> 01:02:00,951 and get an idea what is really happening. 1184 01:02:00,985 --> 01:02:03,687 [Jack Tackle] How many thousands of people have gotten a call 1185 01:02:03,720 --> 01:02:06,256 in the middle of the night, you know, "What's the weather doing there?" 1186 01:02:06,290 --> 01:02:08,392 "Well, Fred, it's fucking dark out, I don't know. 1187 01:02:08,425 --> 01:02:11,061 [Fred] I think conditions here are pretty darn good right now. 1188 01:02:11,095 --> 01:02:12,362 The weather's excellent. 1189 01:02:12,396 --> 01:02:13,597 Actually got room for another guy. 1190 01:02:13,630 --> 01:02:15,299 Three would be perfect. 1191 01:02:15,332 --> 01:02:16,633 [Alex] He would do his best 1192 01:02:16,666 --> 01:02:19,103 to convince a guy to go climbing. 1193 01:02:19,136 --> 01:02:20,771 [Fred] You're pushing your luck sometimes, 1194 01:02:20,805 --> 01:02:23,640 like you might get high blood pressure by just working too hard. 1195 01:02:23,673 --> 01:02:25,943 [Alex] He'd hound you until you caved in. 1196 01:02:25,976 --> 01:02:28,212 [Erik Harz] He will not rest until you call him back. 1197 01:02:28,245 --> 01:02:29,513 There's no blowing off Fred. 1198 01:02:29,546 --> 01:02:30,848 [Fred] Shit! 1199 01:02:30,881 --> 01:02:32,116 [Erik] Especially if he knows where you live, 1200 01:02:32,149 --> 01:02:34,018 like, you don't know, he could just, 1201 01:02:34,051 --> 01:02:36,353 -like, show up at your house. -[Fred] I'm Fred Beckey, remember me. 1202 01:02:36,386 --> 01:02:38,022 Hey, we're right in front of your house! 1203 01:02:38,055 --> 01:02:40,390 Fucking system, I got to do something about this. 1204 01:02:40,424 --> 01:02:41,691 I'm on your street, 1205 01:02:41,725 --> 01:02:44,261 but I don't know where your place is. Gonna stop by. 1206 01:02:44,294 --> 01:02:46,030 Well, are you the one with the fence? 1207 01:02:46,063 --> 01:02:49,033 [Todd] If you've ever seen Fred's filing system 1208 01:02:49,066 --> 01:02:51,068 it's a series of different cards 1209 01:02:51,101 --> 01:02:53,203 rubber banded together, in different areas. 1210 01:02:53,237 --> 01:02:55,272 Phone numbers scratched out, 1211 01:02:55,305 --> 01:02:56,773 more current phone numbers, addresses, 1212 01:02:56,807 --> 01:02:58,542 what days a person has off. 1213 01:02:58,575 --> 01:03:00,344 I've seen him fill this out on the phone. 1214 01:03:00,377 --> 01:03:01,846 "So, what days are you off again?" 1215 01:03:01,879 --> 01:03:04,014 And, "Oh, Thursdays and Fridays, 1216 01:03:04,048 --> 01:03:05,682 I can climb with this guy." 1217 01:03:05,715 --> 01:03:08,352 He thinks nothing of making that late night phone call. 1218 01:03:08,385 --> 01:03:10,354 He just pulls in and just would throw his sleeping bag 1219 01:03:10,387 --> 01:03:12,522 down in our driveway and crash out. 1220 01:03:12,556 --> 01:03:14,591 I remember having kids walk past 1221 01:03:14,624 --> 01:03:17,061 in the morning going to school. One of the kids said, 1222 01:03:17,094 --> 01:03:19,396 "Why do you make your grandpa sleep in the driveway?" 1223 01:03:23,100 --> 01:03:24,401 [Alex] In the early '60s, 1224 01:03:24,434 --> 01:03:27,504 Shiprock only had one route on it. 1225 01:03:27,537 --> 01:03:29,773 So, any other ascent 1226 01:03:29,806 --> 01:03:34,278 would result in a first ascent, and that was Fred's forte. 1227 01:03:34,311 --> 01:03:38,115 So he tried to recruit Eric Bjornstad and me 1228 01:03:38,148 --> 01:03:39,483 to do the climb with him, 1229 01:03:39,516 --> 01:03:43,553 and Eric agreed to go with them and I didn't. 1230 01:03:46,223 --> 01:03:48,425 [Eric] When we went to Shiprock in the early '60s, 1231 01:03:48,458 --> 01:03:51,128 the lady that I was going with at the time 1232 01:03:51,161 --> 01:03:54,731 had tattoos over about 80% of her body. 1233 01:03:54,764 --> 01:03:56,800 And Fred just hated her. 1234 01:03:58,702 --> 01:04:01,338 [Fred] I really don't even know why he brought her. 1235 01:04:01,371 --> 01:04:03,040 She was not a climber. 1236 01:04:03,073 --> 01:04:05,642 What was she gonna do there all that time? 1237 01:04:05,675 --> 01:04:08,778 You know, I think it was a really bad choice. 1238 01:04:08,812 --> 01:04:12,216 [Eric] I spent 20 days on the Southwest Buttress of Shiprock 1239 01:04:12,249 --> 01:04:14,284 with Fred and this lady, 1240 01:04:14,318 --> 01:04:16,420 and finally had a falling out with Fred. 1241 01:04:16,453 --> 01:04:19,056 [Alex] When Eric decided to quit, 1242 01:04:19,089 --> 01:04:20,390 Fred just couldn't handle it. 1243 01:04:20,424 --> 01:04:22,726 And of course they were out there 1244 01:04:22,759 --> 01:04:24,428 in Fred's Thunderbird. 1245 01:04:24,461 --> 01:04:26,997 Fred wouldn't even take Eric to the bus station, 1246 01:04:27,031 --> 01:04:31,068 so, Eric and his girlfriend had to walk across the desert. 1247 01:04:31,101 --> 01:04:33,270 [Eric] We hiked back out to the highway, 1248 01:04:33,303 --> 01:04:34,471 which was several miles, 1249 01:04:34,504 --> 01:04:37,274 and then hitchhiked back to Seattle, 1250 01:04:37,307 --> 01:04:38,742 and Fred would dog us 1251 01:04:38,775 --> 01:04:42,012 he would follow us in the car staying within view... 1252 01:04:42,046 --> 01:04:43,280 and then as we'd get let off, 1253 01:04:43,313 --> 01:04:46,516 he would drive by slowly. [chuckles] 1254 01:04:46,550 --> 01:04:50,354 And he did that all the way into Oregon. 1255 01:04:50,387 --> 01:04:51,721 He then got on the phone, 1256 01:04:51,755 --> 01:04:54,458 you know, every few hours and would call me 1257 01:04:54,491 --> 01:04:57,127 at my office, and so when the phone would ring, 1258 01:04:57,161 --> 01:04:58,528 the boss would answer the phone 1259 01:04:58,562 --> 01:05:00,397 and it'd be long distance 1260 01:05:00,430 --> 01:05:05,302 and it'd be a long discourse of how great the climb is, 1261 01:05:05,335 --> 01:05:07,337 and how good the conditions are. 1262 01:05:07,371 --> 01:05:08,772 "Oh, yeah, Eric, 1263 01:05:08,805 --> 01:05:10,507 you know, lost interest, you know, 1264 01:05:10,540 --> 01:05:13,110 there was no big problem." Which was all a lie. 1265 01:05:13,143 --> 01:05:15,379 My boss started getting angry with me 1266 01:05:15,412 --> 01:05:17,514 because, you know, I was getting paid by the hour. 1267 01:05:17,547 --> 01:05:20,284 I figured, hey, I've got a raise coming, 1268 01:05:20,317 --> 01:05:22,319 So, I kind of 1269 01:05:22,352 --> 01:05:23,487 asked my boss for the raise, 1270 01:05:23,520 --> 01:05:25,255 and when he didn't give me the raise, 1271 01:05:25,289 --> 01:05:28,158 it was a good excuse to quit and join Fred. 1272 01:05:28,192 --> 01:05:29,359 [Fred] When Eric and I were there, 1273 01:05:29,393 --> 01:05:31,628 it was too windy, too cold. 1274 01:05:31,661 --> 01:05:34,431 And when Alex came, everything changed. 1275 01:05:34,464 --> 01:05:36,266 It got too warm. 1276 01:05:36,300 --> 01:05:39,269 [Alex] We were within 200 feet of the summit 1277 01:05:39,303 --> 01:05:43,373 when Fred decided that we couldn't go any further 1278 01:05:43,407 --> 01:05:46,610 because we only maybe had a cup of water left 1279 01:05:46,643 --> 01:05:49,213 in our last bottle. 1280 01:05:49,246 --> 01:05:52,416 He was adamant about going down, 1281 01:05:52,449 --> 01:05:54,584 and I was adamant about going up. 1282 01:05:54,618 --> 01:05:59,023 And Fred, I think, almost had a nervous breakdown. 1283 01:05:59,056 --> 01:06:02,359 Eventually I felt exhausted just arguing with him 1284 01:06:02,392 --> 01:06:03,660 and I said, "OK, let's go down, 1285 01:06:03,693 --> 01:06:06,130 but I'm not coming back up again." 1286 01:06:06,163 --> 01:06:07,697 And he said, "That's fine." 1287 01:06:07,731 --> 01:06:11,068 [Fred] Luckily I'd been in touch with Harvey Carter, 1288 01:06:11,101 --> 01:06:12,669 who I'd climbed with before. 1289 01:06:12,702 --> 01:06:15,339 [Eric] Harvey came out and met Fred at Shiprock, 1290 01:06:15,372 --> 01:06:18,208 and within half a day they reached the summit. 1291 01:06:18,242 --> 01:06:19,476 So, the first ascent of the southwest buttress 1292 01:06:19,509 --> 01:06:22,279 was Fred Beckey and Harvey Carter. 1293 01:06:22,312 --> 01:06:24,248 But Alex had spent a whole week on the climb 1294 01:06:24,281 --> 01:06:27,584 and I'd spent 20 days on the climb. 1295 01:06:35,659 --> 01:06:38,362 [Don] We have an important announcement. 1296 01:06:38,395 --> 01:06:41,198 We're standing on the summit of Mt. Seattle. 1297 01:06:52,209 --> 01:06:56,480 [Don] The culture of that time was one of personal pride. 1298 01:06:56,513 --> 01:06:59,283 If you were a climber, you kind of felt 1299 01:06:59,316 --> 01:07:02,286 that you were a little bit special. 1300 01:07:02,319 --> 01:07:04,688 [Eric] It was very appealing to do something 1301 01:07:04,721 --> 01:07:06,590 that few other people could do. 1302 01:07:06,623 --> 01:07:10,394 And back in the 60s it was pretty esoteric, you know. 1303 01:07:10,427 --> 01:07:13,597 Why people climb now I think is totally different. 1304 01:07:13,630 --> 01:07:16,066 [Peter] Some people talk about the sport of mountaineering, 1305 01:07:16,100 --> 01:07:18,502 or the sport of climbing, and for me it's just, 1306 01:07:18,535 --> 01:07:21,571 what sport is so much about is rules. 1307 01:07:21,605 --> 01:07:23,607 You have to follow the rules, 1308 01:07:23,640 --> 01:07:26,576 I think what defines being up in the mountains and climbing, 1309 01:07:26,610 --> 01:07:29,613 is that there is no rules. 1310 01:07:29,646 --> 01:07:33,750 [Ed Cooper] It was a fierce competition in those days. 1311 01:07:33,783 --> 01:07:35,252 We didn't really get along well. 1312 01:07:35,285 --> 01:07:37,387 I had my ideas of what I wanted to do, 1313 01:07:37,421 --> 01:07:40,157 and he had his ideas of what he wanted to do. 1314 01:07:40,190 --> 01:07:42,392 The first ascents were the thing. 1315 01:07:42,426 --> 01:07:44,027 [Fred] Cooper might have been one that... 1316 01:07:44,060 --> 01:07:45,395 he was interested, maybe sometimes interested 1317 01:07:45,429 --> 01:07:47,564 in the same climbs I was, 1318 01:07:47,597 --> 01:07:49,032 and that's fine! 1319 01:07:49,065 --> 01:07:51,301 You know, there was some competition. 1320 01:07:51,335 --> 01:07:54,238 But sometimes I joined him on climbs, too. 1321 01:07:54,271 --> 01:07:57,341 [Ed Cooper] It became a little bit of a game. 1322 01:07:57,374 --> 01:08:00,710 He wouldn't tell his partners where they were going, 1323 01:08:00,744 --> 01:08:03,313 in case the weather turned bad and they never got there, 1324 01:08:03,347 --> 01:08:05,249 then he wouldn't tip 'em off 1325 01:08:05,282 --> 01:08:07,717 about this first ascent that he wants to do. 1326 01:08:11,821 --> 01:08:14,391 [Alex] Fred was only focused on climbing, 1327 01:08:14,424 --> 01:08:18,562 and his partners had to be dedicated the same way. 1328 01:08:18,595 --> 01:08:21,765 And he never felt sorry for you 1329 01:08:21,798 --> 01:08:24,534 if your climbing ended up in a divorce. 1330 01:08:24,568 --> 01:08:27,704 [Dave] He's had to leave a few burning bridges behind, 1331 01:08:27,737 --> 01:08:31,341 in order to live the life that he's wanted to live. 1332 01:08:31,375 --> 01:08:34,378 [Eric] He went through dozens and dozens of climbers. 1333 01:08:34,411 --> 01:08:36,746 He would have falling-outs with them, 1334 01:08:36,780 --> 01:08:38,848 and he was a difficult person to be around, 1335 01:08:38,882 --> 01:08:40,517 but I got along well with him 1336 01:08:40,550 --> 01:08:42,352 because I admired Fred for his climbing ability 1337 01:08:42,386 --> 01:08:44,621 and just overlooked the other faults 1338 01:08:44,654 --> 01:08:46,290 that he might have had. 1339 01:08:46,323 --> 01:08:49,493 [Nick] Now, climbers are a pretty single-minded bunch. 1340 01:08:49,526 --> 01:08:52,529 But he's more single-minded than the single-minded bunch. 1341 01:08:52,562 --> 01:08:55,532 People thought I was a fanatic, they thought my friends were fanatics, 1342 01:08:55,565 --> 01:08:58,502 and that's nothing, nothing compared to Fred! 1343 01:08:58,535 --> 01:09:02,005 [Ed] He would kind of talk almost constantly. 1344 01:09:02,038 --> 01:09:04,441 [Yvon] Fred will wear you down. [chuckles] 1345 01:09:04,474 --> 01:09:07,644 He'll repeat the same thing over and over again, 1346 01:09:07,677 --> 01:09:10,180 and that can drive you nuts. 1347 01:09:10,214 --> 01:09:12,349 [Alex] There were three subjects that he would talk about. 1348 01:09:12,382 --> 01:09:17,086 Of course, the first one is mountains. The other, of course, weather. 1349 01:09:17,120 --> 01:09:19,423 And the other subject was women-- 1350 01:09:19,456 --> 01:09:22,426 women he'd dated, women that he wanted to date. 1351 01:09:22,459 --> 01:09:24,994 Women he should have dated. 1352 01:09:25,028 --> 01:09:28,031 Those were the three subjects that you were stuck with 1353 01:09:28,064 --> 01:09:31,335 when you were in a tent with Fred. 1354 01:09:31,368 --> 01:09:33,203 [Dave] You think people considered you 1355 01:09:33,237 --> 01:09:35,205 sort of a renegade climber? 1356 01:09:35,239 --> 01:09:37,507 They probably think I'm pretty independent. 1357 01:09:39,209 --> 01:09:41,611 That's all right, I don't care what they think. 1358 01:09:41,645 --> 01:09:43,380 I could care less. 1359 01:09:46,416 --> 01:09:49,118 [Timothy] There was a school of thought that he was unsafe, 1360 01:09:49,152 --> 01:09:53,423 that what comes with being a spectacular pioneer 1361 01:09:53,457 --> 01:09:55,392 is recklessness. 1362 01:09:55,425 --> 01:09:57,661 People died climbing with him. 1363 01:09:57,694 --> 01:10:01,197 [Dave] Have you lost a lot of friends in the mountains? 1364 01:10:01,231 --> 01:10:06,703 [Fred] A few, yeah. Dick Berge on Mt. Baring. 1365 01:10:06,736 --> 01:10:08,338 That was a bad one. 1366 01:10:08,372 --> 01:10:12,476 And we lost Charles Shiverick in an accident 1367 01:10:12,509 --> 01:10:15,745 on Mt. Serra in the Mt. Waddington area... 1368 01:10:15,779 --> 01:10:18,181 or Waddington Range. 1369 01:10:18,214 --> 01:10:19,416 Very unfortunate. 1370 01:10:19,449 --> 01:10:22,085 I feel very, very, very bad about it. 1371 01:10:22,118 --> 01:10:25,755 Many climbers have lost some of their best friends climbing. 1372 01:10:25,789 --> 01:10:28,325 it's not for everybody. 1373 01:10:28,358 --> 01:10:30,193 It definitely is not. 1374 01:10:30,226 --> 01:10:32,095 [Timothy] There is an element of luck 1375 01:10:32,128 --> 01:10:35,465 involved in these risky sports. 1376 01:10:35,499 --> 01:10:37,534 They never pinned the blame specifically on him 1377 01:10:37,567 --> 01:10:39,068 for these deaths. 1378 01:10:39,102 --> 01:10:41,371 It was more like, he lived and they didn't. 1379 01:10:41,405 --> 01:10:43,440 They took the fatal wrong step. 1380 01:10:43,473 --> 01:10:46,242 But, there was enough there for the gossips 1381 01:10:46,276 --> 01:10:49,613 that he developed a bad reputation. 1382 01:10:50,780 --> 01:10:52,782 [Fred] If risk appealed to me, 1383 01:10:52,816 --> 01:10:59,155 I'd go out in the jungle and you know, hang around the lions. 1384 01:10:59,188 --> 01:11:01,057 [Ed Cooper] He was, to my knowledge, 1385 01:11:01,090 --> 01:11:04,694 never injured seriously in an accident. 1386 01:11:04,728 --> 01:11:06,330 That's quite a feat 1387 01:11:06,363 --> 01:11:09,065 with all the climbing that he has done. 1388 01:11:09,098 --> 01:11:10,867 [Layton] You were guaranteed 1389 01:11:10,900 --> 01:11:12,001 going back in the mountains with Fred, 1390 01:11:12,035 --> 01:11:13,670 you weren't gonna get lost at least. 1391 01:11:13,703 --> 01:11:16,272 He knew exactly where he was all the time. 1392 01:11:16,306 --> 01:11:18,675 He'd spent enough years in the mountains to know 1393 01:11:18,708 --> 01:11:22,011 that if you were gonna continue doing this sort of thing and survive, 1394 01:11:22,045 --> 01:11:24,247 well, you gotta be careful. 1395 01:11:24,280 --> 01:11:27,116 [Yvon] The reason I'm alive today is probably because of Fred 1396 01:11:27,150 --> 01:11:30,520 and the things I learned alpine climbing with him. 1397 01:11:30,554 --> 01:11:34,524 There were probably 250 serious climbers in America. 1398 01:11:34,558 --> 01:11:36,726 I didn't know who Fred was when I first met him, 1399 01:11:36,760 --> 01:11:39,162 but then I started realizing that 1400 01:11:39,195 --> 01:11:41,731 he's one of the few guys 1401 01:11:41,765 --> 01:11:46,102 that actually searched out hard alpine climbs. 1402 01:11:49,138 --> 01:11:52,075 [vintage narrator] Beautiful Mt. Edith Cavell in Canada. 1403 01:11:52,108 --> 01:11:53,443 Many have wanted to scale 1404 01:11:53,477 --> 01:11:55,412 the North Face of this mountain, 1405 01:11:55,445 --> 01:11:59,649 but no one has ever dared it before. 1406 01:11:59,683 --> 01:12:03,152 [Yvon] When we tried to sign out with the park warden, 1407 01:12:03,186 --> 01:12:05,722 he wouldn't sign us out, he said, "It's suicide." 1408 01:12:05,755 --> 01:12:08,257 And so we said, "OK, we're gonna go do it anyway." 1409 01:12:09,626 --> 01:12:13,630 [vintage narrator] 7:00 a.m., the men set out, 1410 01:12:13,663 --> 01:12:16,099 to risk their lives, 1411 01:12:16,132 --> 01:12:18,167 and there it is. 1412 01:12:20,570 --> 01:12:25,308 Are they worried? You doggone right, they are! 1413 01:12:25,341 --> 01:12:28,745 But the goal is greater than fear. 1414 01:12:28,778 --> 01:12:32,315 [Barry] It's an interesting combination where you have Yvon, 1415 01:12:32,348 --> 01:12:34,317 the young Yosemite specialist, 1416 01:12:34,350 --> 01:12:36,620 apprentice to the master mountain climber. 1417 01:12:36,653 --> 01:12:40,490 [vintage narrator] Not many of us can endure such a prolonged struggle. 1418 01:12:40,524 --> 01:12:44,961 But Yvon and Fred and Dan keep their goal in mind. 1419 01:12:44,994 --> 01:12:48,131 [Fred] We knew we could climb the peak as far as the difficulty goes. 1420 01:12:48,164 --> 01:12:52,569 The danger is rock fall and possible avalanches. 1421 01:12:52,602 --> 01:12:55,304 We had a bad lightning storm that pretty much frightened us. 1422 01:12:55,338 --> 01:12:59,208 So, that night we bivouacked 500 feet below the summit. 1423 01:13:09,118 --> 01:13:12,155 [vintage narrator] Suddenly, the struggle is over. 1424 01:13:12,188 --> 01:13:14,257 And they become the first men in history 1425 01:13:14,290 --> 01:13:16,960 to climb the dangerous North Face 1426 01:13:16,993 --> 01:13:19,629 of the summit of Mt. Edith Cavell. 1427 01:13:19,663 --> 01:13:21,565 There'll be time to congratulate themselves later, 1428 01:13:21,598 --> 01:13:24,000 when they return to the everyday world 1429 01:13:24,033 --> 01:13:25,669 where congratulations matter. 1430 01:13:25,702 --> 01:13:27,370 [Yvon] We got back down, 1431 01:13:27,403 --> 01:13:29,673 and there was a note on our car from the warden that said, 1432 01:13:29,706 --> 01:13:31,608 "Good work, boys." 1433 01:13:35,512 --> 01:13:37,280 [Fred] After we climbed Edith Cavell, 1434 01:13:37,313 --> 01:13:39,215 Chouinard and I went to the Bugaboos 1435 01:13:39,248 --> 01:13:41,618 and that's when we had our eyes set 1436 01:13:41,651 --> 01:13:42,986 on the South Tower of Howser. 1437 01:13:43,019 --> 01:13:44,521 That's the ultimate in climbing, 1438 01:13:44,554 --> 01:13:47,724 is to do a first descent on a beautiful line. 1439 01:13:54,430 --> 01:13:56,165 [Conrad] Fred's a climber's climber. 1440 01:13:56,199 --> 01:14:00,036 He chose to do good routes that were challenging, 1441 01:14:00,069 --> 01:14:02,038 that were aesthetically beautiful. 1442 01:14:02,071 --> 01:14:07,010 [Jim] He has an artist's eye for the lines. 1443 01:14:07,043 --> 01:14:09,546 [Corey] What Fred has given back to climbing 1444 01:14:09,579 --> 01:14:11,447 is thousands of routes. 1445 01:14:11,481 --> 01:14:13,316 [Jim] There's probably no human being on the planet 1446 01:14:13,349 --> 01:14:15,384 that has more routes named after him. 1447 01:14:15,418 --> 01:14:18,221 The Beckey this, the Beckey that, the Beckey Direct, 1448 01:14:18,254 --> 01:14:19,589 the Beckey... [laughs] 1449 01:14:19,623 --> 01:14:23,292 [Steve Gunn] * Hey mister shadow wreck 1450 01:14:25,962 --> 01:14:29,265 * Cruel and dusted mind 1451 01:14:29,298 --> 01:14:31,568 [Jim] He was a very good researcher, 1452 01:14:31,601 --> 01:14:33,202 which gave rise whether or not 1453 01:14:33,236 --> 01:14:35,539 this mythological notebook actually exists. 1454 01:14:35,572 --> 01:14:39,108 [Todd] You've always heard about this black book that Fred Beckey has. 1455 01:14:39,142 --> 01:14:41,077 [Dave] Of all the unclimbed peaks 1456 01:14:41,110 --> 01:14:42,612 that he still wanted to do. 1457 01:14:42,646 --> 01:14:44,614 [Peter] It's become legendary in American climbing. 1458 01:14:44,648 --> 01:14:48,451 People whisper that somebody found the black book. 1459 01:14:48,484 --> 01:14:49,553 [Todd] The black book... 1460 01:14:49,586 --> 01:14:50,754 [Fred] There's no black book. 1461 01:14:50,787 --> 01:14:53,222 That was in the haul bag until Tehipite Dome. 1462 01:14:53,256 --> 01:14:54,223 No. 1463 01:14:54,257 --> 01:14:55,725 I don't know of any black book. 1464 01:14:55,759 --> 01:14:57,426 I would never have put a black book... 1465 01:14:57,460 --> 01:15:00,229 Why would I put a black book in a haul bag? 1466 01:15:00,263 --> 01:15:02,431 I mean, it doesn't make sense. People make up stories. 1467 01:15:02,465 --> 01:15:04,133 I've never had a black book. 1468 01:15:04,167 --> 01:15:06,135 [Alex] He didn't need a black book. 1469 01:15:06,169 --> 01:15:10,607 He remembered every mountain that he ever saw pictures of, 1470 01:15:10,640 --> 01:15:13,109 or climbed, 1471 01:15:13,142 --> 01:15:15,745 or from the summit looking over to the next range. 1472 01:15:15,779 --> 01:15:17,446 He knew what he wanted to climb, 1473 01:15:17,480 --> 01:15:21,184 and he remembered those details. 1474 01:15:25,288 --> 01:15:26,723 [beep] 1475 01:15:26,756 --> 01:15:29,292 [Fred] Hey, listen. I'm planning on heading down 1476 01:15:29,325 --> 01:15:31,227 for Russell and Whitney in a few days. 1477 01:15:31,260 --> 01:15:34,497 But we wanted one more climber, we need somebody, 1478 01:15:34,530 --> 01:15:36,432 but so far we've had no luck. 1479 01:15:36,465 --> 01:15:38,401 I've called about 35 people, 1480 01:15:38,434 --> 01:15:40,604 this is the only way I can do it this year. 1481 01:15:40,637 --> 01:15:42,572 It's the only way. 1482 01:15:54,517 --> 01:15:56,319 [Yvon] The fact that he still has these high standards 1483 01:15:56,352 --> 01:15:58,487 of routes that he wants to do, 1484 01:15:58,521 --> 01:16:02,258 and he's really, we all know he's really not capable of doing 'em. 1485 01:16:02,291 --> 01:16:07,363 I don't think it's ego, I think he's just an idealist. 1486 01:16:12,035 --> 01:16:13,637 Fred loves the mountains. 1487 01:16:13,670 --> 01:16:16,139 And he still wants that lifestyle 1488 01:16:16,172 --> 01:16:18,074 of having his car full of gear, 1489 01:16:18,107 --> 01:16:19,676 just in case. 1490 01:16:22,646 --> 01:16:24,147 He's a climber. 1491 01:16:24,180 --> 01:16:28,251 He's not gonna give up till his last breath. 1492 01:16:28,284 --> 01:16:32,021 [Jim] You know, you damn well wouldn't want your kid, 1493 01:16:32,055 --> 01:16:33,156 to grow up to be Fred Beckey 1494 01:16:33,189 --> 01:16:35,725 because of this exclusive focus, 1495 01:16:35,759 --> 01:16:39,562 this unnatural focus. 1496 01:16:39,595 --> 01:16:41,497 [Timothy] Other people have moved on. 1497 01:16:41,530 --> 01:16:43,532 They had normal lives, they had families, 1498 01:16:43,566 --> 01:16:46,502 they had wives, they have grandkids now. 1499 01:16:46,535 --> 01:16:49,438 They have their place in history. Fred never did. 1500 01:16:49,472 --> 01:16:52,709 In some cases, he may be a sad lonely man 1501 01:16:52,742 --> 01:16:54,177 who doesn't have anything. 1502 01:16:54,210 --> 01:16:56,445 But I think he also appreciates the fact 1503 01:16:56,479 --> 01:16:59,515 that he can still do what most of us can't. 1504 01:17:05,121 --> 01:17:08,257 [Dave] There's almost this morbid 1505 01:17:08,291 --> 01:17:11,961 fear of being the one who's with Fred when he goes. 1506 01:17:11,995 --> 01:17:13,863 Am I gonna be the one who's known 1507 01:17:13,897 --> 01:17:15,598 as the guy who killed Fred Beckey? 1508 01:17:15,631 --> 01:17:19,102 -[Dave] I can grab your pack, Fred. -[Fred] Ah, that's OK, buddy. 1509 01:17:19,135 --> 01:17:20,569 I feel guilty. 1510 01:17:20,603 --> 01:17:22,672 [Dave] Hey, Fred! 1511 01:17:22,706 --> 01:17:25,975 -[Fred] I got a guilt trip. -[Dave] No, the main thing is that you get up high. 1512 01:17:26,009 --> 01:17:29,378 -It doesn't matter how you get there. -Yeah, it does. 1513 01:17:38,187 --> 01:17:40,223 [Yvon] When I see him, I think, "Gosh, 1514 01:17:40,256 --> 01:17:43,492 he's so much smaller than I remember." 1515 01:17:43,526 --> 01:17:47,163 I remember him being so much taller and straight. 1516 01:17:47,196 --> 01:17:50,599 Now he's getting... you know... 1517 01:17:50,633 --> 01:17:53,169 Like all of us, he's getting there. 1518 01:18:03,212 --> 01:18:04,647 [Dave] What do you think? 1519 01:18:04,680 --> 01:18:07,116 [Fred] I don't know, man. 1520 01:18:07,150 --> 01:18:09,385 Don't take movies of me, shit. 1521 01:18:11,154 --> 01:18:13,056 I used to just run up here. 1522 01:18:13,089 --> 01:18:15,091 Maybe not run but... 1523 01:18:23,232 --> 01:18:25,969 You better save your battery. 1524 01:18:26,002 --> 01:18:28,704 I'm aware that you're trying to make a movie, 1525 01:18:28,738 --> 01:18:31,440 you want to get some climbing footage? 1526 01:18:31,474 --> 01:18:34,210 You want to get a movie about climbing, not backpacking. 1527 01:18:34,243 --> 01:18:37,080 Me walking uphill, crossing creeks. 1528 01:18:37,113 --> 01:18:40,183 I mean, OK, but how much of that is valuable? 1529 01:18:40,216 --> 01:18:41,684 I don't know. 1530 01:18:51,027 --> 01:18:53,496 [Dave] How you feeling, Fred? 1531 01:18:53,529 --> 01:18:55,431 I don't know. 1532 01:18:55,464 --> 01:18:58,367 I just... 1533 01:18:58,401 --> 01:19:00,669 Let me lay on my ass here for a minute. 1534 01:19:00,703 --> 01:19:02,505 Fucking lungs. 1535 01:19:02,538 --> 01:19:04,107 I mean, fuck, 1536 01:19:04,140 --> 01:19:07,443 I can't believe it's taken three days to get here. 1537 01:19:07,476 --> 01:19:11,514 I don't think I can cut the climb, I got no fuckin' energy. 1538 01:19:13,016 --> 01:19:15,351 We're goin' so fuckin' slow, I'm embarrassed. 1539 01:19:15,384 --> 01:19:18,487 It's ridiculous. 1540 01:19:18,521 --> 01:19:21,190 I don't know what the fuck is wrong. 1541 01:19:24,227 --> 01:19:27,163 Yeah, maybe we just ought to might bail. I don't know. 1542 01:19:27,196 --> 01:19:30,066 I just don't know how I'm gonna feel. 1543 01:19:35,338 --> 01:19:40,243 I hate to do it. It pisses me off. 1544 01:19:42,211 --> 01:19:45,348 -[Dave] Should we get going? -Yeah. 1545 01:19:45,381 --> 01:19:48,084 It's probably the smartest move. 1546 01:19:48,117 --> 01:19:49,953 I never deliberate this much. 1547 01:19:49,986 --> 01:19:52,588 Either I'm gonna do something or I don't do it. 1548 01:20:06,535 --> 01:20:09,205 [Steve] Well, I think today, Fred, with his age, 1549 01:20:09,238 --> 01:20:11,107 that he keeps going, and he's kind of living 1550 01:20:11,140 --> 01:20:15,511 on memories and living on a dream, 1551 01:20:15,544 --> 01:20:17,213 that he can still do it. 1552 01:20:17,246 --> 01:20:19,415 I say more power to him. 1553 01:20:19,448 --> 01:20:23,252 You know, if he does fall off a steep trail or something, 1554 01:20:23,286 --> 01:20:26,189 I don't think he'd have it any other way. 1555 01:20:36,232 --> 01:20:39,435 It's hard to tell, was he just driven 1556 01:20:39,468 --> 01:20:42,605 because through what he did would become immortal in a way? 1557 01:20:42,638 --> 01:20:44,173 Which it will. 1558 01:20:52,648 --> 01:20:59,622 [people chattering] 1559 01:20:59,655 --> 01:21:01,690 Come on, be more like Beckey. 1560 01:21:09,165 --> 01:21:10,599 -Take care. Yeah. -[man] Good to meet you. 1561 01:21:10,633 --> 01:21:12,568 -Don't lose the books. -I won't, don't worry! 1562 01:21:12,601 --> 01:21:14,437 In recent years, 1563 01:21:14,470 --> 01:21:16,739 there have been a number of people who have recognized him 1564 01:21:16,772 --> 01:21:20,176 for what he is, the last of a dying breed 1565 01:21:20,209 --> 01:21:23,112 of wilderness explorers. 1566 01:21:31,487 --> 01:21:33,456 [cheering & applause] 1567 01:21:40,629 --> 01:21:42,198 [people laughing] 1568 01:21:56,679 --> 01:22:01,150 I was perfectly OK, until about three years ago. 1569 01:22:01,184 --> 01:22:05,188 Up in the Canadian Rockies, I started feeling funny. 1570 01:22:05,221 --> 01:22:07,690 Don't know what it is. 1571 01:22:07,723 --> 01:22:09,458 I'm probably lucky to be alive. 1572 01:22:09,492 --> 01:22:13,262 And I've got a whole rack of medicines 1573 01:22:13,296 --> 01:22:18,101 that the doctor wishes I would take, but I don't do it. 1574 01:22:18,134 --> 01:22:22,238 Everything from A to Z, which probably- vitamins, vitamin C, 1575 01:22:22,271 --> 01:22:25,341 which would probably help. I probably should do it. 1576 01:22:25,374 --> 01:22:27,176 You want any candy? 1577 01:22:29,545 --> 01:22:32,048 Definitely get some donuts, I like donuts. 1578 01:22:32,081 --> 01:22:33,282 Trying to gain some weight. 1579 01:22:33,316 --> 01:22:35,351 The best donuts are the Canadian ones, 1580 01:22:35,384 --> 01:22:36,986 but they don't have 'em here. 1581 01:22:37,020 --> 01:22:39,055 Favorite kind of donuts are jelly donuts, 1582 01:22:39,088 --> 01:22:43,292 some kind of raspberry or jelly or something, 1583 01:22:43,326 --> 01:22:46,629 or those donuts that have cream puff inside of 'em. 1584 01:22:46,662 --> 01:22:49,298 They're pretty good. 1585 01:22:49,332 --> 01:22:52,068 We're here in Canyonlands National Park, 1586 01:22:52,101 --> 01:22:55,404 near the sight of Moses. 1587 01:22:55,438 --> 01:23:00,609 This is the first time I've been back since 1972. 1588 01:23:00,643 --> 01:23:03,979 I welcome the chance to climb in a different environment 1589 01:23:04,013 --> 01:23:07,083 and the Utah desert is about as different, 1590 01:23:07,116 --> 01:23:08,284 from my background. 1591 01:23:08,317 --> 01:23:10,153 I thought it was very beautiful. 1592 01:23:10,186 --> 01:23:11,720 And unusual, I- 1593 01:23:11,754 --> 01:23:15,258 it took me a while to get used to the rock. 1594 01:23:24,767 --> 01:23:27,170 I used to come out here for climbing practice. 1595 01:23:27,203 --> 01:23:31,507 I think I was one of the earliest people to climb on the rock. 1596 01:23:34,677 --> 01:23:36,545 [Conrad] Fred is sort of alone here in the States, 1597 01:23:36,579 --> 01:23:40,349 and who's his family? Who's his support network? 1598 01:23:40,383 --> 01:23:43,552 You need to have community to stay healthy. 1599 01:23:43,586 --> 01:23:46,089 Fred's family is the climbing community. 1600 01:23:46,122 --> 01:23:47,256 [beep] 1601 01:23:47,290 --> 01:23:50,025 Right now, I have a driving problem-- 1602 01:23:50,059 --> 01:23:52,561 the drivers license people don't think I'm a good driver. 1603 01:23:52,595 --> 01:23:55,564 Maybe I'm not, but I think I am but whatever. 1604 01:23:55,598 --> 01:23:57,533 It's difficult because 1605 01:23:57,566 --> 01:24:00,103 I'd like to get somebody to go skiing with this weekend, 1606 01:24:00,136 --> 01:24:01,437 and I'm not even sure who I have. 1607 01:24:01,470 --> 01:24:04,273 I may not be able to find anyone. 1608 01:24:04,307 --> 01:24:07,643 Are we going ski touring tomorrow on Blewett Pass... 1609 01:24:07,676 --> 01:24:11,747 Can you please call me back? I hope this works out. 1610 01:24:11,780 --> 01:24:14,016 But do call me, I'm waiting 1611 01:24:14,049 --> 01:24:16,719 and would like to hear from you. Bye Bye 1612 01:24:23,392 --> 01:24:26,462 You wanna go down by the beach? 1613 01:24:26,495 --> 01:24:30,133 My brother was two and a half years younger than I was. 1614 01:24:30,166 --> 01:24:33,369 He did everything I did. One time, 1615 01:24:33,402 --> 01:24:36,105 my brother and I found a couple of logs, 1616 01:24:36,139 --> 01:24:38,006 and we nailed boards together 1617 01:24:38,040 --> 01:24:40,609 and we made kind of a makeshift raft, 1618 01:24:40,643 --> 01:24:43,512 and then went and paddled across over to Vashon Island. 1619 01:24:43,546 --> 01:24:48,484 [Helmy] We went a hell of a long ways out. 1620 01:24:48,517 --> 01:24:53,956 freighters and ocean liners would come along. 1621 01:24:53,989 --> 01:24:55,291 [Fred] One ship did come by. 1622 01:24:55,324 --> 01:24:58,594 This ship created waves and wakes. 1623 01:24:58,627 --> 01:25:03,166 I was worried that it might shake the raft apart. 1624 01:25:03,199 --> 01:25:05,968 It's about three miles over to Vashon Island. 1625 01:25:06,001 --> 01:25:07,403 We stayed on the island maybe a night. 1626 01:25:07,436 --> 01:25:10,005 We abandoned the raft over there. 1627 01:25:10,038 --> 01:25:11,307 We took the ferry boat back. 1628 01:25:11,340 --> 01:25:14,343 I think maybe we were pushing the limits. 1629 01:25:14,377 --> 01:25:17,079 I think we were pushing our luck. 1630 01:25:17,112 --> 01:25:20,616 I sure wouldn't dream of doing it today. 1631 01:25:20,649 --> 01:25:22,017 [Helmy] I don't talk to Fred, you know, 1632 01:25:22,050 --> 01:25:25,053 'cause he's always too hard to reach. 1633 01:25:25,087 --> 01:25:26,955 [Dave] Have you talked to Helmy? 1634 01:25:26,989 --> 01:25:28,191 [Fred] I made a trip there, 1635 01:25:28,224 --> 01:25:30,058 we had some communication problems. 1636 01:25:30,092 --> 01:25:33,095 He's having a tough time hearing. 1637 01:25:33,128 --> 01:25:35,498 [Helmy] He came to visit, you know, over here, 1638 01:25:35,531 --> 01:25:36,965 but not to see me, 1639 01:25:36,999 --> 01:25:39,302 but to go into the Dolomites. 1640 01:25:41,036 --> 01:25:42,738 He changed his lifestyle. 1641 01:25:42,771 --> 01:25:45,641 He's just totally interested and immersed in music, 1642 01:25:45,674 --> 01:25:51,247 which is OK, but I think he overdoes it. 1643 01:25:53,349 --> 01:25:56,485 [Helmy] I'm proud of him. He's a real hero. 1644 01:25:56,519 --> 01:25:58,721 And he's the most modest 1645 01:25:58,754 --> 01:26:02,157 damn person in the world, you know? 1646 01:26:02,191 --> 01:26:03,659 There must be a lot of people 1647 01:26:03,692 --> 01:26:06,895 that are just plain resentful or jealous... 1648 01:26:06,929 --> 01:26:09,398 'cause Fred is different, you know? 1649 01:26:09,432 --> 01:26:11,133 [Fred] Wanna pick up a duck? 1650 01:26:11,166 --> 01:26:13,502 [Dave laughs] 1651 01:26:13,536 --> 01:26:18,341 They either hate the guy or fear him, or love him. 1652 01:26:21,109 --> 01:26:23,246 [Fred] I don't know if I'm contributing. 1653 01:26:23,279 --> 01:26:25,113 I'm not sure I am. 1654 01:26:25,147 --> 01:26:27,283 I hope I'm contributing a little bit 1655 01:26:27,316 --> 01:26:29,318 to mountaineering education, 1656 01:26:29,352 --> 01:26:32,255 people's knowledge of the mountains. 1657 01:26:33,689 --> 01:26:35,057 I think the dirtbag thing, 1658 01:26:35,090 --> 01:26:37,159 I don't know where it really started. 1659 01:26:37,192 --> 01:26:39,562 I don't feel that I've been a dirtbag. 1660 01:26:39,595 --> 01:26:43,131 I've always had a car. 1661 01:26:43,165 --> 01:26:45,133 And I've always had a purpose. 1662 01:26:45,167 --> 01:26:47,202 The first ascents I've done, 1663 01:26:47,236 --> 01:26:49,438 going to Kate's Needle and Devil's Thumb, 1664 01:26:49,472 --> 01:26:52,708 Mount Hunter, Mount Deborah in Alaska. The Waddington trip 1665 01:26:52,741 --> 01:26:56,111 I don't think you could call that dirtbagging. 1666 01:26:59,782 --> 01:27:02,951 [Dave] So, do you feel like you did everything you wanted to do? 1667 01:27:02,985 --> 01:27:04,353 [Fred] Never, no. 1668 01:27:04,387 --> 01:27:07,122 I just scratched the surface. 1669 01:27:07,155 --> 01:27:10,626 Obviously, with climbing, it's endless. 1670 01:27:10,659 --> 01:27:12,361 You know, you can make a hit list 1671 01:27:12,395 --> 01:27:15,331 of things that you want to climb or places to visit. 1672 01:27:15,364 --> 01:27:17,966 I'd love to go to Majorca, the islands in Greece, 1673 01:27:18,000 --> 01:27:19,335 I haven't even been to Thailand. 1674 01:27:19,368 --> 01:27:21,270 And even in North America, 1675 01:27:21,304 --> 01:27:23,739 there are mountains in Colorado, Wyoming, 1676 01:27:23,772 --> 01:27:27,310 Montana that I haven't even climbed, Mexico, 1677 01:27:27,343 --> 01:27:30,379 all of South America, I've never done anything there. 1678 01:27:30,413 --> 01:27:31,614 You can't do all these things. 1679 01:27:31,647 --> 01:27:33,316 But I don't regret having done it, 1680 01:27:33,349 --> 01:27:35,684 it may be better to look forward to it, 1681 01:27:35,718 --> 01:27:38,387 maybe I'll get there sometime. 1682 01:27:38,421 --> 01:27:41,290 I'd like to unwind and get younger, 1683 01:27:41,324 --> 01:27:43,892 but I guess nobody's figured that out yet. 1684 01:27:43,926 --> 01:27:47,496 [Dave] You have any single one thing you value most in life, 1685 01:27:47,530 --> 01:27:50,165 -[Dave] that you value the very most? -[Fred] Stay alive. 1686 01:27:50,198 --> 01:27:52,067 [Todd laughs] 1687 01:27:54,770 --> 01:27:57,072 That's important. 1688 01:28:03,612 --> 01:28:06,582 [Timothy] When we study individuals who break the mold, 1689 01:28:06,615 --> 01:28:10,319 we should not just study artists and scientists 1690 01:28:10,353 --> 01:28:12,988 and authors and architects. 1691 01:28:13,021 --> 01:28:16,058 We should include Fred Beckey among them. 1692 01:28:16,091 --> 01:28:17,660 Beckey was trained classically, 1693 01:28:17,693 --> 01:28:20,529 but then he just smashed the model. 1694 01:28:20,563 --> 01:28:24,066 Sometimes it just calls for a single-minded bastard. 1695 01:28:26,068 --> 01:28:29,572 [Alex] So many of us grow up and are stuck in dead end jobs 1696 01:28:29,605 --> 01:28:31,273 and can't get out of 'em. 1697 01:28:31,306 --> 01:28:35,210 You see this person who has pursued his passion 1698 01:28:35,243 --> 01:28:36,745 and has pursued it passionately. 1699 01:28:36,779 --> 01:28:38,747 And we all know instinctively, 1700 01:28:38,781 --> 01:28:40,383 that's what I should have done 1701 01:28:40,416 --> 01:28:43,051 from the time I was 18 years old. 1702 01:28:44,687 --> 01:28:48,591 [Fred] You know, I could say to heck with it and go play golf. 1703 01:28:48,624 --> 01:28:50,158 Take up cards. 1704 01:28:50,192 --> 01:28:52,194 Sit around the picnic table. 1705 01:28:52,227 --> 01:28:55,698 It's a lot more fun, a lot easier. 1706 01:28:55,731 --> 01:28:58,467 But I guess I have a certain amount of motivation 1707 01:28:58,501 --> 01:29:00,736 or drive to go out and do these things. 1708 01:29:00,769 --> 01:29:03,038 Why, I can't explain it. 1709 01:29:03,071 --> 01:29:05,574 I'd rather do something than do nothing. 1710 01:29:05,608 --> 01:29:06,975 Put it that way. 1711 01:29:07,009 --> 01:29:09,712 -[wind blowing] -[panting] 1712 01:29:12,214 --> 01:29:14,249 [Jeff screams] Come on, Fred, get up there! 1713 01:29:16,184 --> 01:29:17,653 -[Dave] Yeah, do it! -Yes! 1714 01:29:17,686 --> 01:29:21,289 Yeah! Woo! Yeah, buddy! 1715 01:29:22,290 --> 01:29:24,192 Nice, Fred! 1716 01:29:27,229 --> 01:29:29,197 [Fred] Lots of fun. 1717 01:29:29,231 --> 01:29:31,467 [Vasiliki] What I believe about most people 1718 01:29:31,500 --> 01:29:34,903 is as they get older, they don't necessarily get any wiser. 1719 01:29:34,937 --> 01:29:36,405 In fact, rarely. 1720 01:29:36,439 --> 01:29:39,408 They just become more so what they've always been. 1721 01:29:39,442 --> 01:29:43,078 And I think, probably, with Fred, it's the same thing. 1722 01:29:43,111 --> 01:29:45,380 He is... 1723 01:29:45,414 --> 01:29:47,149 ...etched in stone. 1724 01:30:03,499 --> 01:30:06,101 [music playing] 1725 01:30:44,640 --> 01:30:47,943 [Steve Gunn] * There's a constant motion 1726 01:30:47,976 --> 01:30:52,981 * Makes you feel like the ocean * 1727 01:30:53,015 --> 01:30:56,885 * Hey there nature driver man 1728 01:30:56,919 --> 01:31:00,288 * You are a welcome guest 1729 01:31:01,690 --> 01:31:05,093 * Man with that wicked eye 1730 01:31:05,127 --> 01:31:08,631 * Will lead you to your rest 1731 01:31:09,632 --> 01:31:12,400 * Moving through the seasons 1732 01:31:12,434 --> 01:31:16,772 * And I'm hoping for the best 1733 01:31:16,805 --> 01:31:19,407 I remember once climbing at Cal Dome with Fred Beckey, 1734 01:31:19,441 --> 01:31:23,478 and there was this swarm of bees up ahead on the trail. 1735 01:31:23,512 --> 01:31:25,013 So we all shouted to Fred, 1736 01:31:25,047 --> 01:31:27,215 "Hey, Fred, you know, there's bees up there!" 1737 01:31:27,249 --> 01:31:30,919 You know, Fred couldn't hear shit, "What?" 1738 01:31:30,953 --> 01:31:32,821 And he walked right through the bees, 1739 01:31:32,855 --> 01:31:34,422 and, you know, one or two must have stung him, 1740 01:31:34,456 --> 01:31:36,592 and he kind of just like slapped himself 1741 01:31:36,625 --> 01:31:38,493 and grunted and just kept on walking. 1742 01:31:38,527 --> 01:31:40,462 And all the other guys were like, 1743 01:31:40,495 --> 01:31:42,731 "Fuck that, we're not gonna walk through the bees." 1744 01:31:42,765 --> 01:31:44,299 So, they start, like, 1745 01:31:44,332 --> 01:31:46,334 bushwhacking to cut the switchback, 1746 01:31:46,368 --> 01:31:49,404 and I sort of in my own mind, I thought, 1747 01:31:49,437 --> 01:31:51,640 "Man, if Fred Beckey's like eighty-something years old. 1748 01:31:51,674 --> 01:31:53,375 If that guy can walk through the bees, 1749 01:31:53,408 --> 01:31:54,743 I'm gonna walk through the fuckin' bees. 1750 01:31:54,777 --> 01:31:57,746 Like, I'm pretty tough, it's no big deal." 1751 01:31:57,780 --> 01:32:00,048 So, I start marching up through the bees, 1752 01:32:00,082 --> 01:32:02,918 and a bee went right up my shorts 1753 01:32:02,951 --> 01:32:05,153 and just got me right in the scrotum. 1754 01:32:05,187 --> 01:32:07,122 and I just couldn't... 1755 01:32:07,155 --> 01:32:10,258 There was nothing you could do. I mean, it's a natural reaction. 1756 01:32:10,292 --> 01:32:12,695 I ripped my shorts off and I'm trying to kill the bee, 1757 01:32:12,728 --> 01:32:15,564 and all the guys are like laughing hysterically, 1758 01:32:15,598 --> 01:32:17,132 like, they just think it's the funniest thing. 1759 01:32:17,165 --> 01:32:18,634 And it really hurt. 1760 01:32:18,667 --> 01:32:22,037 And Fred's completely oblivious. 1761 01:32:22,070 --> 01:32:24,506 We get to the base of the crag about 20 minutes later, 1762 01:32:24,539 --> 01:32:28,410 and I say to Fred, "Did you get stung by any bees?" 1763 01:32:28,443 --> 01:32:29,745 "What?" 1764 01:32:29,778 --> 01:32:31,880 "Bees, like, did any bees sting you?" 1765 01:32:31,914 --> 01:32:33,616 "I dunno. Maybe, maybe." 1766 01:32:33,649 --> 01:32:35,751 And looked at his hand and there was, like, a stinger 1767 01:32:35,784 --> 01:32:38,020 still in his hand, and I just thought, 1768 01:32:38,053 --> 01:32:40,155 "Goddamn, like, this guy, 1769 01:32:40,188 --> 01:32:41,690 he is so passionate 1770 01:32:41,724 --> 01:32:43,525 and so freakin' tough. 1771 01:32:43,558 --> 01:32:46,228 And that other stuff, like pain, 1772 01:32:46,261 --> 01:32:48,463 doesn't affect him, apparently." 1773 01:32:48,496 --> 01:32:52,067 [Steve Gunn] * Highway is fully stacked, * 1774 01:32:52,267 --> 01:32:55,070 * think we'll turn around. 1775 01:32:56,071 --> 01:32:59,942 * Go down another road 1776 01:32:59,975 --> 01:33:03,478 * and through a different town. * 1777 01:33:04,980 --> 01:33:08,050 * Feel the direction like 1778 01:33:08,550 --> 01:33:12,120 * a rock upon the moon. 1779 01:33:13,121 --> 01:33:16,258 * Come on the overpass 1780 01:33:16,291 --> 01:33:19,995 * and hope to get there soon. 1781 01:33:21,196 --> 01:33:24,032 * Hope to get there soon. 1782 01:33:24,066 --> 01:33:25,668 When he said, "I really wanna climb 1783 01:33:25,701 --> 01:33:27,569 the East Buttress on Whitney." 1784 01:33:27,602 --> 01:33:29,104 I was like, "Well, why not? 1785 01:33:29,137 --> 01:33:30,673 The guy's a legend, let's go have a good time." 1786 01:33:30,706 --> 01:33:32,607 And as we're going down there, he's like, 1787 01:33:32,641 --> 01:33:34,476 "I think I've got it this time, I can climb, 1788 01:33:34,509 --> 01:33:37,279 it's just, I have trouble sleeping at altitude." 1789 01:33:37,312 --> 01:33:39,414 And being a problem solver, I'm already thinking, 1790 01:33:39,447 --> 01:33:43,085 "well, how can I help this guy achieve his dreams?" 1791 01:33:43,118 --> 01:33:45,120 And so, the first day we hike up, 1792 01:33:45,153 --> 01:33:47,122 and we get to camp that night and it's cold, 1793 01:33:47,155 --> 01:33:49,992 and he pulls out this inappropriately light sleeping bag, 1794 01:33:50,025 --> 01:33:51,626 with a tiny little Therm-a-Rest. 1795 01:33:51,660 --> 01:33:53,095 Like, the guy's not gonna sleep. 1796 01:33:53,128 --> 01:33:54,697 I couldn't sleep in that thing. 1797 01:33:54,730 --> 01:33:57,365 Every so often, if people have trouble sleeping at altitude, 1798 01:33:57,399 --> 01:33:59,301 you know, a little sleeping pill kind of helps. 1799 01:33:59,334 --> 01:34:01,870 So, I grind up a little bit of this 1800 01:34:01,904 --> 01:34:03,571 sleeping tablet into his tea, and he drinks it, 1801 01:34:03,605 --> 01:34:05,373 and I don't tell him anything about it. 1802 01:34:05,407 --> 01:34:07,342 We wake up the next morning, and he's like, 1803 01:34:07,375 --> 01:34:12,114 "Dave, I feel great, I'm ready to charge!" 1804 01:34:13,448 --> 01:34:16,151 So that night, there was no appropriate time 1805 01:34:16,184 --> 01:34:17,753 to slip him the mickey. 1806 01:34:17,786 --> 01:34:19,421 So, I said, "Fred, I've got a confession, 1807 01:34:19,454 --> 01:34:21,656 I put a little sleeping pill in your tea last night, 1808 01:34:21,690 --> 01:34:23,959 and that's probably why you slept well, 1809 01:34:23,992 --> 01:34:25,560 we should do it." And he's like, "What!" 1810 01:34:25,593 --> 01:34:28,363 He was just convinced that, that's not the thing to do. 1811 01:34:28,396 --> 01:34:31,266 So, he didn't sleep a wink, woke up miserable, 1812 01:34:31,299 --> 01:34:35,070 and we didn't get a chance to climb Mt. Whitney that trip. 1813 01:34:35,103 --> 01:34:36,504 Dave Nettle had given me a great tip, 1814 01:34:36,538 --> 01:34:38,707 Just sneak a little bit of, like, a sleeping pill 1815 01:34:38,741 --> 01:34:40,375 into Fred's drink, 1816 01:34:40,408 --> 01:34:42,044 Sure enough, gave it to Fred and watched him get drowsy 1817 01:34:42,077 --> 01:34:43,678 and then, you know, got him into his sleeping bag 1818 01:34:43,712 --> 01:34:48,516 and, it sounds like I'm drug- like we drugged the guy, but 1819 01:34:48,550 --> 01:34:50,285 um... well, we kinda did. 1820 01:34:50,318 --> 01:34:53,722 But the point is, he jumped up that morning, he was refreshed, 1821 01:34:53,756 --> 01:34:56,524 he slept well, put his pack on, hiked up to the base 1822 01:34:56,558 --> 01:34:58,460 and climbed the East Face of Mt. Whitney. 1823 01:34:58,493 --> 01:35:00,963 [Steve Gunn] * There's a constant motion 1824 01:35:00,996 --> 01:35:05,567 * Makes you feel like the ocean * 1825 01:35:05,600 --> 01:35:09,805 * Hey there nature driver man 1826 01:35:09,838 --> 01:35:13,141 * You are a welcome guest 70306

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