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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,257 --> 00:00:05,257 (peaceful music) (birds chirping) 2 00:00:08,180 --> 00:00:11,830 For 5,000 years, this land, Egypt, 3 00:00:11,830 --> 00:00:14,830 and the epic civilization it gave birth to 4 00:00:14,830 --> 00:00:19,010 has been shaped by one thing more than any other, 5 00:00:19,010 --> 00:00:20,823 this awesome river. 6 00:00:22,470 --> 00:00:23,563 The River Nile. 7 00:00:25,710 --> 00:00:28,893 The Nile helped temples to rise, 8 00:00:30,060 --> 00:00:34,403 pharaohs to rule, and pyramids to be built. 9 00:00:35,720 --> 00:00:39,003 Without the Nile, there'd have been no ancient Egypt. 10 00:00:41,240 --> 00:00:44,803 So I'm making the historical journey of a lifetime, 11 00:00:46,580 --> 00:00:49,830 a 900-mile adventure along the Nile, 12 00:00:49,830 --> 00:00:51,623 across the whole of Egypt. 13 00:00:52,590 --> 00:00:55,690 I'll explore Egypt's greatest achievements. 14 00:00:55,690 --> 00:00:57,860 It is truly wonderful, isn't it? 15 00:00:57,860 --> 00:01:01,480 And find treasures hidden for thousands of years. 16 00:01:01,480 --> 00:01:02,313 Oh my God. 17 00:01:02,313 --> 00:01:03,860 That's a sheer drop down there. 18 00:01:03,860 --> 00:01:07,310 This is my chance to travel this fabulous land. 19 00:01:07,310 --> 00:01:09,030 Oh lovely! 20 00:01:09,030 --> 00:01:12,230 And experience it as the Ancient Egyptians did. 21 00:01:12,230 --> 00:01:14,360 From the River Nile. 22 00:01:14,360 --> 00:01:16,560 From pharaohs to slaves, 23 00:01:16,560 --> 00:01:20,700 from facts to fantasies, I want to explore firsthand 24 00:01:20,700 --> 00:01:24,040 and to understand how this river shaped one 25 00:01:24,040 --> 00:01:29,040 of the world's first and greatest civilizations. 26 00:01:29,360 --> 00:01:34,360 Join me as I uncover 5,000 years of history 27 00:01:34,600 --> 00:01:36,723 along the River Nile. 28 00:01:39,007 --> 00:01:41,757 (dramatic music) 29 00:01:47,540 --> 00:01:49,890 So far on my journey up the Nile, 30 00:01:49,890 --> 00:01:51,690 I've explored many of the treasures 31 00:01:51,690 --> 00:01:54,273 that helped to create Ancient Egypt. 32 00:02:02,340 --> 00:02:04,660 And now as the river gets busier, 33 00:02:04,660 --> 00:02:06,830 I'm coming to one incredible stretch 34 00:02:06,830 --> 00:02:08,560 that reveals a huge amount 35 00:02:08,560 --> 00:02:13,413 about the Egyptians' obsession with life and death. 36 00:02:16,720 --> 00:02:18,070 This river gave rise to one 37 00:02:18,070 --> 00:02:21,020 of the most captivating civilizations in the world 38 00:02:21,020 --> 00:02:24,733 and a jewel in the crown is where I'm heading now, Luxor. 39 00:02:29,080 --> 00:02:32,960 300 miles south of Cairo on the east bank of the Nile 40 00:02:32,960 --> 00:02:37,620 is a famous city full of ancient wonders. 41 00:02:37,620 --> 00:02:41,963 I love visiting Luxor and I'm certainly not alone. 42 00:02:43,000 --> 00:02:44,100 This is a stretch of the river 43 00:02:44,100 --> 00:02:46,610 that's welcomed everyone from Tutankhamen 44 00:02:46,610 --> 00:02:50,543 to Winston Churchill, from Cleopatra to Agatha Christie. 45 00:02:52,330 --> 00:02:54,270 It was travelers from the Victorian age 46 00:02:54,270 --> 00:02:56,773 who helped to make Luxor super fashionable. 47 00:02:58,050 --> 00:03:00,500 Here, they could swap the British winter 48 00:03:00,500 --> 00:03:05,113 for 30 degree temperatures and 5,000 years of culture. 49 00:03:06,070 --> 00:03:07,820 But it didn't come cheap. 50 00:03:07,820 --> 00:03:10,160 The trip from Cairo to Luxor cost 51 00:03:10,160 --> 00:03:14,383 an eye-watering 12,000 pounds in today's money. 52 00:03:15,300 --> 00:03:19,263 But to one Victorian traveler, that was small change. 53 00:03:20,320 --> 00:03:22,730 Queen Victoria's son, the Prince of Wales, 54 00:03:22,730 --> 00:03:25,620 the future Edward the Seventh came to the Nile 55 00:03:25,620 --> 00:03:29,550 and he so loved it he came back twice. 56 00:03:29,550 --> 00:03:33,020 Now he traveled in quite some style. 57 00:03:33,020 --> 00:03:37,030 He had six steamships decorated with friezes 58 00:03:37,030 --> 00:03:39,700 of Antony and Cleopatra and behind them, 59 00:03:39,700 --> 00:03:43,933 he had a barge carrying 4,000 bottles of claret 60 00:03:43,933 --> 00:03:47,420 and 3000 bottles of champagne. 61 00:03:47,420 --> 00:03:51,713 Plus what every good dahabeah needs, a donkey. 62 00:03:52,612 --> 00:03:54,220 (bright music) 63 00:03:54,220 --> 00:03:57,343 Donkeys were used to fetch supplies from the banks. 64 00:04:00,260 --> 00:04:02,800 But it seems today that the Nile 65 00:04:02,800 --> 00:04:04,904 has brought the shopping to us. 66 00:04:04,904 --> 00:04:06,398 Oh hello! 67 00:04:06,398 --> 00:04:07,231 Oh hi! 68 00:04:07,231 --> 00:04:09,780 (man shouting) 69 00:04:09,780 --> 00:04:12,173 I'm sure special price. 70 00:04:12,173 --> 00:04:14,740 These very enterprising boys. 71 00:04:14,740 --> 00:04:16,450 Yeah, that's beautiful. 72 00:04:16,450 --> 00:04:20,490 Have hooked on to try and sell me a dress and a tablecloth. 73 00:04:20,490 --> 00:04:21,543 Shall I come down? 74 00:04:22,570 --> 00:04:23,403 Okay. 75 00:04:24,613 --> 00:04:25,446 Hey! 76 00:04:28,536 --> 00:04:30,110 English? 77 00:04:30,110 --> 00:04:31,713 Oh my gosh? 78 00:04:31,713 --> 00:04:32,610 English? 79 00:04:32,610 --> 00:04:33,600 English, yes. 80 00:04:33,600 --> 00:04:34,790 Very good! 81 00:04:34,790 --> 00:04:36,760 It's a lovely towel. 82 00:04:36,760 --> 00:04:39,280 I would get one but I've already got one at home. 83 00:04:40,640 --> 00:04:42,633 Nefertiti, that's Nefertiti. 84 00:04:44,612 --> 00:04:46,700 That's actually quite nice. 85 00:04:46,700 --> 00:04:47,780 I'm gonna buy that one. 86 00:04:47,780 --> 00:04:49,297 I'm gonna buy it, actually. 87 00:04:50,340 --> 00:04:52,370 I'm sure my husband would love that. 88 00:04:52,370 --> 00:04:53,670 He'd look very nice in it. 89 00:04:54,680 --> 00:04:57,117 Show me the one for my husband again (laughs). 90 00:04:59,140 --> 00:05:00,690 Wait, wait, no, no, no. 91 00:05:00,690 --> 00:05:02,063 Oh my God! 92 00:05:02,063 --> 00:05:02,896 Thank you! 93 00:05:02,896 --> 00:05:03,873 Bravo, bravo! 94 00:05:03,873 --> 00:05:06,610 That is my years of cricket practice with my brother 95 00:05:06,610 --> 00:05:07,980 in the garden. 96 00:05:07,980 --> 00:05:09,582 Now I think I've gotta buy it. 97 00:05:09,582 --> 00:05:11,670 Money, okay! 98 00:05:11,670 --> 00:05:12,760 Okay. 99 00:05:12,760 --> 00:05:13,623 Oh my God. 100 00:05:16,620 --> 00:05:17,633 Oh, okay. 101 00:05:18,620 --> 00:05:22,093 And, here on the Nile, there's even contactless payment. 102 00:05:23,550 --> 00:05:26,460 I've gotta throw the money back in a plastic bag. 103 00:05:26,460 --> 00:05:27,703 One, two, three. 104 00:05:29,347 --> 00:05:30,680 Look, thank you. 105 00:05:31,620 --> 00:05:33,630 Isn't it great? 106 00:05:33,630 --> 00:05:35,020 Everybody sees as an opportunity, 107 00:05:35,020 --> 00:05:37,503 and actually I think it's huge. 108 00:05:40,098 --> 00:05:42,681 (bright music) 109 00:05:51,050 --> 00:05:54,710 Luxor is the number one tourist destination on the Nile 110 00:05:54,710 --> 00:05:56,610 with spectacular temples 111 00:05:56,610 --> 00:05:59,323 and tombs scattered across either side of the river. 112 00:06:07,160 --> 00:06:08,980 There's tons to see here. 113 00:06:08,980 --> 00:06:11,480 So the crew are gonna moor up for a couple of days 114 00:06:14,600 --> 00:06:17,550 because I want to see what these spectacular sites 115 00:06:17,550 --> 00:06:21,853 can tell us about the Egyptian experience of life and death. 116 00:06:27,700 --> 00:06:29,630 After difficult times in Egypt, 117 00:06:29,630 --> 00:06:32,310 it's brilliant to see so many tourists flooding back 118 00:06:32,310 --> 00:06:34,010 to the city here on the east bank. 119 00:06:36,434 --> 00:06:39,434 (engine sputtering) 120 00:06:42,640 --> 00:06:46,423 But I'm crossing straight to Luxor's famous West Bank. 121 00:06:49,710 --> 00:06:52,180 It's only a short hop across the river, 122 00:06:52,180 --> 00:06:54,380 but for the Ancient Egyptians, 123 00:06:54,380 --> 00:06:57,293 this was a highly symbolic journey. 124 00:06:59,030 --> 00:07:01,750 I'm moving from the east bank, the land of the living, 125 00:07:01,750 --> 00:07:04,080 to the west bank where the sun sets 126 00:07:04,080 --> 00:07:07,720 and where the Ancient Egyptians buried their secrets. 127 00:07:07,720 --> 00:07:09,660 The land of the dead, 128 00:07:09,660 --> 00:07:11,290 which of course ironically means 129 00:07:11,290 --> 00:07:14,800 that in terms of stories and archeological discovery, 130 00:07:14,800 --> 00:07:17,033 it is very much alive. 131 00:07:17,033 --> 00:07:19,920 (peaceful music) 132 00:07:19,920 --> 00:07:22,770 Three miles inland from the river is a place 133 00:07:22,770 --> 00:07:25,400 that's very close to my heart, 134 00:07:25,400 --> 00:07:28,633 the legendary Valley of the Kings. 135 00:07:29,680 --> 00:07:32,430 (dramatic music) 136 00:07:37,870 --> 00:07:39,450 It was the fabulous treasures hidden 137 00:07:39,450 --> 00:07:41,370 beneath these barren slopes 138 00:07:41,370 --> 00:07:43,900 that first sparked my interest in history 139 00:07:43,900 --> 00:07:45,623 way back when I was five. 140 00:07:48,850 --> 00:07:52,343 And one discovery here sits above all others. 141 00:07:54,660 --> 00:07:56,980 It was made by two Brits, 142 00:07:56,980 --> 00:07:59,090 archeologist Howard Carter 143 00:07:59,090 --> 00:08:01,803 and wealthy aristocrat Lord Carnarvon. 144 00:08:05,540 --> 00:08:06,373 Carnarvon and Carter 145 00:08:06,373 --> 00:08:08,830 had actually worked together for 15 years 146 00:08:08,830 --> 00:08:11,760 before they discovered the tomb of Tutankhamen. 147 00:08:11,760 --> 00:08:15,560 Carnarvon was really passionate about what he did in Egypt. 148 00:08:15,560 --> 00:08:17,030 I mean, he loved being here. 149 00:08:17,030 --> 00:08:18,710 He learnt some Arabic, 150 00:08:18,710 --> 00:08:21,480 the locals called him Lordy and he wrote 151 00:08:21,480 --> 00:08:25,720 that he drank thick black Turkish coffee every morning, 152 00:08:25,720 --> 00:08:29,920 but he also poured money into these excavations. 153 00:08:29,920 --> 00:08:33,890 And at one point he was hiring up to 275 boys 154 00:08:33,890 --> 00:08:34,800 to do the work. 155 00:08:34,800 --> 00:08:38,860 So the two of them were really, really serious 156 00:08:38,860 --> 00:08:40,830 about trying to find something. 157 00:08:40,830 --> 00:08:44,880 And once they did, it was the discovery of the century 158 00:08:44,880 --> 00:08:48,495 and captured the imagination of the world. 159 00:08:48,495 --> 00:08:51,245 (dramatic music) 160 00:08:54,570 --> 00:08:57,350 In the heat and dust, you really get a sense 161 00:08:57,350 --> 00:09:01,000 of what it must've been like digging here 100 years ago. 162 00:09:01,000 --> 00:09:04,723 As Carter and his team searched for a long-lost tomb. 163 00:09:06,630 --> 00:09:09,300 After five years of hard work 164 00:09:09,300 --> 00:09:12,420 on the 26th of November, 1922, 165 00:09:12,420 --> 00:09:16,963 Carter and Carnarvon scrambled down this very passageway. 166 00:09:31,730 --> 00:09:34,020 It's a story that's been told a number of times, 167 00:09:34,020 --> 00:09:37,280 but it is always worth the retelling. 168 00:09:37,280 --> 00:09:39,290 When Carnarvon and Carter were about 169 00:09:39,290 --> 00:09:41,000 to break into the chamber, 170 00:09:41,000 --> 00:09:43,201 Carter looked through a tiny hole 171 00:09:43,201 --> 00:09:46,997 and describes the glint of gold everywhere. 172 00:09:46,997 --> 00:09:49,300 "What can you see?" Said Carnarvon. 173 00:09:49,300 --> 00:09:54,244 And Carter simply said, "Wonderful things." 174 00:09:54,244 --> 00:09:56,650 (uplifting music) 175 00:09:56,650 --> 00:09:59,520 Tut's tomb stunned the world 176 00:09:59,520 --> 00:10:01,833 and it's been drawing crowds ever since. 177 00:10:04,135 --> 00:10:06,506 I remember I went to that Tutankhamen exhibition 178 00:10:06,506 --> 00:10:08,557 in 1972, it was one at the British Museum, 179 00:10:08,557 --> 00:10:11,760 and that's what got me into history 180 00:10:11,760 --> 00:10:13,767 so it's really lovely to see. 181 00:10:13,767 --> 00:10:18,340 But the truth is, Tut's tomb isn't actually that remarkable. 182 00:10:18,340 --> 00:10:20,280 It's surprisingly small for a pharaoh 183 00:10:20,280 --> 00:10:22,370 and the decoration looks a bit rushed, 184 00:10:22,370 --> 00:10:24,703 even in some places a bit second rate. 185 00:10:26,530 --> 00:10:27,650 You were sayin' it's so much smaller 186 00:10:27,650 --> 00:10:29,930 than obviously the bigger tombs. 187 00:10:29,930 --> 00:10:32,505 We've just been in Rameses the Third's. 188 00:10:32,505 --> 00:10:34,827 And obviously it goes down and down and down and down 189 00:10:34,827 --> 00:10:37,153 and you come into this and it's just compact. 190 00:10:38,920 --> 00:10:41,930 Was it 'cause it was a rushed burial? 191 00:10:41,930 --> 00:10:43,493 Exactly, yeah. 192 00:10:45,630 --> 00:10:47,521 It's now believed that Tut was buried 193 00:10:47,521 --> 00:10:50,513 in a tomb originally prepared for someone else. 194 00:10:53,040 --> 00:10:55,430 Perhaps Tut's own tomb wasn't ready. 195 00:10:55,430 --> 00:10:56,310 That would make sense 196 00:10:56,310 --> 00:10:59,043 because we know he died when he was just a teenager. 197 00:11:02,440 --> 00:11:05,720 Worth the effort coming here? Definitely. 198 00:11:07,231 --> 00:11:08,641 Definitely for me. 199 00:11:08,641 --> 00:11:09,591 And the boys? 200 00:11:09,591 --> 00:11:12,425 The boys, well, they're boys aren't they? 201 00:11:12,425 --> 00:11:14,842 (man laughs) 202 00:11:15,770 --> 00:11:18,260 Luckily for those who need a bit more convincing, 203 00:11:18,260 --> 00:11:20,270 the Valley of the Kings also boasts 204 00:11:20,270 --> 00:11:23,660 the most spectacular tombs in Egypt 205 00:11:23,660 --> 00:11:25,570 and just a few meters away, 206 00:11:25,570 --> 00:11:28,723 there is an absolute showstopper. 207 00:11:34,170 --> 00:11:36,640 Tutankhamen's tomb is the most famous 208 00:11:36,640 --> 00:11:38,223 in the Valley of the Kings. 209 00:11:39,400 --> 00:11:40,610 But, to my mind, 210 00:11:40,610 --> 00:11:43,773 his neighbor's tomb is even more intriguing. 211 00:11:45,260 --> 00:11:47,240 It shows us the Ancient Egyptians 212 00:11:47,240 --> 00:11:51,913 at their most brilliant and badly behaved. 213 00:11:54,130 --> 00:11:56,060 Just around the corner from Tut's tomb, 214 00:11:56,060 --> 00:11:58,340 'cause of course this is a whole city of the dead 215 00:11:58,340 --> 00:12:00,760 so there are burials everywhere 216 00:12:00,760 --> 00:12:04,020 there is a real show-stopper tomb. 217 00:12:04,020 --> 00:12:06,440 And if you wanna get a sense of what a burial is like 218 00:12:06,440 --> 00:12:09,670 when a pharaoh has pulled out all of the stops 219 00:12:09,670 --> 00:12:11,180 then you should come here to KV9 220 00:12:11,180 --> 00:12:13,330 although actually hardly anybody visits it. 221 00:12:22,810 --> 00:12:26,900 KV9 stands for King's Valley number nine, 222 00:12:26,900 --> 00:12:28,720 a pretty unassuming name 223 00:12:28,720 --> 00:12:32,317 for an absolutely jaw-dropping site. 224 00:12:32,317 --> 00:12:34,480 (dramatic music) 225 00:12:34,480 --> 00:12:37,500 It's five times the size of Tut's 226 00:12:37,500 --> 00:12:39,583 and instantly more impressive. 227 00:12:41,130 --> 00:12:45,150 So this is what a royal tomb really should look like. 228 00:12:45,150 --> 00:12:49,070 It stretches over 100 meters deep into the rock. 229 00:12:49,070 --> 00:12:53,158 The walls are covered with images and ideas and stories 230 00:12:53,158 --> 00:12:55,690 that are supposed to guarantee the successful journey 231 00:12:55,690 --> 00:12:57,880 of the pharaoh through the underworld 232 00:12:57,880 --> 00:13:00,003 and on into the afterlife. 233 00:13:01,210 --> 00:13:03,810 Several images show that journey being made 234 00:13:03,810 --> 00:13:06,176 on a flat-bottomed Nile boat. 235 00:13:06,176 --> 00:13:08,926 (dramatic music) 236 00:13:11,340 --> 00:13:14,465 KV9 is, for me, the high point 237 00:13:14,465 --> 00:13:18,083 of over 1000 years worth of Egyptian tomb building. 238 00:13:30,550 --> 00:13:33,110 The 3000-year-old decoration looks 239 00:13:33,110 --> 00:13:35,023 as though it was painted yesterday. 240 00:13:40,330 --> 00:13:43,080 But look a bit closer and you'll see something 241 00:13:43,080 --> 00:13:44,423 that shouldn't be there. 242 00:13:46,530 --> 00:13:49,543 Graffiti in Latin and Greek. 243 00:13:51,680 --> 00:13:54,833 Some of it dates back at least 2000 years. 244 00:13:55,770 --> 00:13:58,700 People have been coming here for centuries, 245 00:13:58,700 --> 00:14:03,103 some just to visit, but others to loot. 246 00:14:06,890 --> 00:14:09,460 Tombs like these were protected with curses, 247 00:14:09,460 --> 00:14:11,200 may death come on wings 248 00:14:11,200 --> 00:14:14,300 to he who enters the tomb of the pharaoh. 249 00:14:14,300 --> 00:14:16,470 But there were some who clearly took no heed 250 00:14:16,470 --> 00:14:18,020 of that warning here. 251 00:14:18,020 --> 00:14:21,300 Within just 20 years, the tomb was robbed. 252 00:14:21,300 --> 00:14:24,060 This massive stone sarcophagus was smashed 253 00:14:24,060 --> 00:14:27,380 and the mummy inside was desecrated with an ax 254 00:14:27,380 --> 00:14:29,243 and all the treasure was stolen. 255 00:14:37,920 --> 00:14:42,313 The world's most famous cemetery is also a crime scene. 256 00:14:46,670 --> 00:14:48,210 All the tombs discovered here 257 00:14:48,210 --> 00:14:51,690 in the valley so far have turned out to be robbed. 258 00:14:51,690 --> 00:14:54,690 But the truth is, this isn't just random looters. 259 00:14:54,690 --> 00:14:57,106 Quite often it's the men who built the tombs themselves, 260 00:14:57,106 --> 00:14:59,540 or it was an officially sanctioned robbery. 261 00:14:59,540 --> 00:15:02,563 So it's one pharaoh getting their own back on another. 262 00:15:03,590 --> 00:15:06,300 This was a pretty risky business though. 263 00:15:06,300 --> 00:15:07,420 In Ancient Egypt, 264 00:15:07,420 --> 00:15:10,210 the death penalty wasn't actually used that much, 265 00:15:10,210 --> 00:15:13,770 but you could be killed for robbing a tomb. 266 00:15:13,770 --> 00:15:17,210 And the manner of death was pretty horrific. 267 00:15:17,210 --> 00:15:21,013 You were either impaled or burnt alive. 268 00:15:21,854 --> 00:15:24,604 (dramatic music) 269 00:15:27,880 --> 00:15:30,040 It wasn't just the rich who were fascinated 270 00:15:30,040 --> 00:15:31,693 by both life and death. 271 00:15:40,090 --> 00:15:41,870 Almost two miles across the hills 272 00:15:41,870 --> 00:15:45,060 from the Valley of the Kings is a remarkable 273 00:15:45,060 --> 00:15:47,350 and very different site. 274 00:15:47,350 --> 00:15:51,250 Deir el-Medina, a village that was home to the workers 275 00:15:51,250 --> 00:15:53,143 who built the pharaohs' tombs. 276 00:15:55,870 --> 00:15:59,430 It contains extraordinary evidence that, for me, 277 00:15:59,430 --> 00:16:01,623 brings these ordinary people to life. 278 00:16:02,960 --> 00:16:05,633 It's a 40 minute walk from the Valley of the Kings. 279 00:16:06,830 --> 00:16:08,790 So I'm now treading in the footsteps 280 00:16:08,790 --> 00:16:11,990 of the Ancient Egyptians who made this punishing journey 281 00:16:11,990 --> 00:16:15,163 to and from work every few days. 282 00:16:18,560 --> 00:16:22,450 And we're now walking up the main street of the village. 283 00:16:22,450 --> 00:16:25,343 You can see that the houses are so close together. 284 00:16:26,520 --> 00:16:28,590 Egyptologist Yasmin El Shazly 285 00:16:28,590 --> 00:16:31,913 has spent 15 years studying this unique community. 286 00:16:32,980 --> 00:16:35,910 People are normally very interested in the kings, 287 00:16:35,910 --> 00:16:40,910 but I think the average Egyptian was much more interesting. 288 00:16:41,656 --> 00:16:45,670 Because normally royal art and architecture 289 00:16:45,670 --> 00:16:46,940 are full of propaganda. 290 00:16:46,940 --> 00:16:49,470 So that's not who they really were, 291 00:16:49,470 --> 00:16:50,893 but this is the real thing. 292 00:16:51,960 --> 00:16:54,150 And more than just mere builders, 293 00:16:54,150 --> 00:16:57,970 Deir el-Medina was home to craftsmen and women. 294 00:16:57,970 --> 00:17:01,400 You had a community full of, you know, talent. 295 00:17:01,400 --> 00:17:05,990 You have the best artists, the best scribes, 296 00:17:05,990 --> 00:17:08,430 the best craftsman. 297 00:17:08,430 --> 00:17:10,740 So it's very special. 298 00:17:10,740 --> 00:17:11,790 Right, so that means that we haven't 299 00:17:11,790 --> 00:17:13,250 just got a village of people, 300 00:17:13,250 --> 00:17:14,480 but of articulate people 301 00:17:14,480 --> 00:17:16,348 or people who are kind of used to expressing themselves. 302 00:17:16,348 --> 00:17:17,598 Yeah, exactly. 303 00:17:19,430 --> 00:17:20,810 And luckily for us, 304 00:17:20,810 --> 00:17:22,550 they express themselves on something 305 00:17:22,550 --> 00:17:26,200 that survived for three and a half thousand years 306 00:17:26,200 --> 00:17:28,543 and against all the odds. 307 00:17:30,400 --> 00:17:33,340 North of the temple over here was a pit 308 00:17:33,340 --> 00:17:36,940 that was probably dug to be a well 309 00:17:36,940 --> 00:17:38,810 but it ended up being a dump. 310 00:17:38,810 --> 00:17:40,110 Inside the pit, 311 00:17:40,110 --> 00:17:43,253 archeologists found thousands of ostrica. 312 00:17:44,280 --> 00:17:46,240 Ostrica are chips of limestone 313 00:17:46,240 --> 00:17:49,253 that the workmen used to write on. 314 00:17:50,650 --> 00:17:52,680 So imagine someone going through your garbage, 315 00:17:52,680 --> 00:17:54,300 how much information they would get. 316 00:17:54,300 --> 00:17:55,133 Unfortunately. 317 00:17:56,378 --> 00:17:57,653 About your daily life. 318 00:17:59,350 --> 00:18:00,933 We found legal documents, 319 00:18:01,800 --> 00:18:04,860 letters to the living and letters to the dead, 320 00:18:04,860 --> 00:18:09,000 love songs, even the attendance of the workmen 321 00:18:09,000 --> 00:18:11,510 and the reasons why they were absent from work. 322 00:18:11,510 --> 00:18:13,140 And why were they absent? 323 00:18:13,140 --> 00:18:15,840 Sometimes they're celebrating a festival 324 00:18:15,840 --> 00:18:17,210 of a certain God. 325 00:18:17,210 --> 00:18:18,620 And could it sometimes be not just 326 00:18:18,620 --> 00:18:20,510 'cause they were celebrating, 327 00:18:20,510 --> 00:18:22,770 but because they had a hangover after the celebration. 328 00:18:22,770 --> 00:18:24,150 That's very possible too. 329 00:18:24,150 --> 00:18:26,083 They used to drink a lot of beer. 330 00:18:27,260 --> 00:18:30,250 I love the idea, people nursing sore heads here. 331 00:18:30,250 --> 00:18:32,480 Going, oh, just tell them I can't come into work today. 332 00:18:32,480 --> 00:18:34,610 It was too much last night. 333 00:18:34,610 --> 00:18:35,443 Very true. 334 00:18:38,750 --> 00:18:40,940 I've been given incredibly privileged access 335 00:18:40,940 --> 00:18:42,430 to one place in the village 336 00:18:42,430 --> 00:18:45,300 that's only just been opened after years of restoration. 337 00:18:45,300 --> 00:18:48,300 (suspenseful music) 338 00:18:52,403 --> 00:18:55,280 It belonged to a man guilty of much more 339 00:18:55,280 --> 00:18:57,543 than simply skiving off work. 340 00:19:02,423 --> 00:19:03,820 Oh, amazing. 341 00:19:03,820 --> 00:19:04,653 This is brilliant. 342 00:19:04,653 --> 00:19:05,530 This is what I was looking for. 343 00:19:05,530 --> 00:19:09,313 So this is the tomb of someone called Paneb. 344 00:19:10,242 --> 00:19:12,180 I think that's Paneb 345 00:19:12,180 --> 00:19:14,920 and that's almost certainly his wife behind him. 346 00:19:14,920 --> 00:19:19,373 And there's Anubis, representing the god of the underworld. 347 00:19:20,990 --> 00:19:24,010 Paneb wasn't royalty so his tomb is much smaller 348 00:19:24,010 --> 00:19:26,550 than the ones in the Valley of the Kings. 349 00:19:26,550 --> 00:19:28,680 But even though he wasn't famous, 350 00:19:28,680 --> 00:19:30,950 we still know an amazing amount about him 351 00:19:30,950 --> 00:19:33,223 thanks to evidence discovered in the village. 352 00:19:34,190 --> 00:19:37,223 And the story it tells is shocking. 353 00:19:39,793 --> 00:19:42,040 Paneb stops being an ordinary worker 354 00:19:42,040 --> 00:19:44,893 and elevates himself somehow to become a chief workman. 355 00:19:48,450 --> 00:19:50,040 Then the plot thickens, 356 00:19:50,040 --> 00:19:52,030 one of the laborers accuses Paneb 357 00:19:52,030 --> 00:19:53,570 of stealing building material 358 00:19:53,570 --> 00:19:57,223 from a royal tomb to construct his new burial place. 359 00:19:58,620 --> 00:19:59,540 Not only that, 360 00:19:59,540 --> 00:20:02,380 but there are 16 other charges leveled against him. 361 00:20:02,380 --> 00:20:05,290 And this is really serious stuff. 362 00:20:05,290 --> 00:20:07,430 So he was accused of adultery, 363 00:20:07,430 --> 00:20:10,560 of sexual abuse of the women in the village, 364 00:20:10,560 --> 00:20:13,160 of falling into kind of drunken rages 365 00:20:13,160 --> 00:20:14,890 so that he's incredibly violent 366 00:20:14,890 --> 00:20:19,053 and even of killing someone to cover up his crimes. 367 00:20:20,010 --> 00:20:22,260 Now we don't know what happened in the end to Paneb 368 00:20:22,260 --> 00:20:25,150 but, for me, what's so brilliant is 369 00:20:25,150 --> 00:20:27,330 that we still got these intimate details 370 00:20:27,330 --> 00:20:29,540 of ordinary Egyptians' lives, 371 00:20:29,540 --> 00:20:32,200 their affairs, their intrigues, the bullying, 372 00:20:32,200 --> 00:20:35,174 the social climbing, and the scandal. 373 00:20:35,174 --> 00:20:38,174 (suspenseful music) 374 00:20:42,110 --> 00:20:43,993 It's been a long day in the desert. 375 00:20:45,710 --> 00:20:48,953 I'm heading back across the river to Luxor's east bank. 376 00:20:55,760 --> 00:20:59,680 This is one of the hottest and driest cities in the world, 377 00:20:59,680 --> 00:21:02,597 where daytime temperatures can hit 50 degrees. 378 00:21:02,597 --> 00:21:05,097 (eerie music) 379 00:21:09,010 --> 00:21:10,840 So as the sun sets, 380 00:21:10,840 --> 00:21:15,103 the locals come out and Luxor comes alive. 381 00:21:15,103 --> 00:21:17,686 (bright music) 382 00:21:23,570 --> 00:21:25,930 The Ancient Egyptians used to welcome visitors 383 00:21:25,930 --> 00:21:28,520 to celebrate the joy of ka, 384 00:21:28,520 --> 00:21:31,380 to love the spirit of life. 385 00:21:31,380 --> 00:21:35,423 And that warm welcome is still definitely on offer. 386 00:21:41,368 --> 00:21:43,070 So I was dragged in here by these kids 387 00:21:43,070 --> 00:21:45,440 who said there's something gonna happen. 388 00:21:45,440 --> 00:21:46,640 How brilliant to see that dancing. 389 00:21:46,640 --> 00:21:48,580 And actually when we think of Ancient Egypt, 390 00:21:48,580 --> 00:21:49,413 we often think of it 391 00:21:49,413 --> 00:21:51,348 as something being rather stiff and staged. 392 00:21:51,348 --> 00:21:53,447 But actually they loved their festivals 393 00:21:53,447 --> 00:21:56,057 and their music and their dancing 394 00:21:56,057 --> 00:21:57,690 and their beer drinking. 395 00:21:57,690 --> 00:21:59,280 Beer was the kind of staple drink 396 00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:02,890 and they had festivals of drunkenness up and down the Nile. 397 00:22:02,890 --> 00:22:06,720 So they were the original party people. 398 00:22:06,720 --> 00:22:07,650 Where are we going now? 399 00:22:07,650 --> 00:22:08,760 Oh, we're off. 400 00:22:10,970 --> 00:22:13,500 It's tempting to burn the candle at both ends 401 00:22:13,500 --> 00:22:15,660 because tomorrow I'm up super early 402 00:22:15,660 --> 00:22:18,180 for one of the highlights of my journey, 403 00:22:18,180 --> 00:22:20,953 Egypt's most famous temple. 404 00:22:27,380 --> 00:22:30,610 With my lovely dahabeah moored up for a few days, 405 00:22:30,610 --> 00:22:32,910 I'm exploring the ancient wonders surrounding 406 00:22:32,910 --> 00:22:33,823 the city of Luxor. 407 00:22:35,450 --> 00:22:38,486 Today I'm visiting the city's most famous monument. 408 00:22:38,486 --> 00:22:41,069 (horn beeping) 409 00:22:42,531 --> 00:22:44,720 But after a night on the town, 410 00:22:44,720 --> 00:22:46,823 there's one stop I have to make first. 411 00:22:47,730 --> 00:22:50,002 Hi, salaam, can I get a coffee? 412 00:22:50,002 --> 00:22:51,310 Coffee. Coffee. 413 00:22:51,310 --> 00:22:52,143 Sugar? 414 00:22:52,143 --> 00:22:53,086 Sugar. 415 00:22:53,086 --> 00:22:54,560 (speaking in foreign language) 416 00:22:54,560 --> 00:22:55,393 Okay. 417 00:22:55,393 --> 00:22:56,293 Yeah, thank you, (speaking in foreign language). 418 00:22:59,710 --> 00:23:03,440 I cannot get through a day without an Egyptian coffee. 419 00:23:03,440 --> 00:23:04,600 And it's actually very appropriate 420 00:23:04,600 --> 00:23:05,433 that I'm drinking it here 421 00:23:05,433 --> 00:23:07,262 because this is one of the first places 422 00:23:07,262 --> 00:23:09,830 in recorded history where we know 423 00:23:09,830 --> 00:23:12,620 that coffee was drunk in Cairo, actually. 424 00:23:12,620 --> 00:23:14,640 Some people think it came from North Africa. 425 00:23:14,640 --> 00:23:16,750 Some people think coffee came from Yemen, 426 00:23:16,750 --> 00:23:19,530 but when it was first spotted, 427 00:23:19,530 --> 00:23:21,150 goats ate the coffee beans 428 00:23:21,150 --> 00:23:23,480 and they danced around in this wild way. 429 00:23:23,480 --> 00:23:24,313 So that they noticed 430 00:23:24,313 --> 00:23:26,350 it was probably gonna be quite a useful stimulant 431 00:23:26,350 --> 00:23:29,530 but as a result, there were sections of society 432 00:23:29,530 --> 00:23:32,210 that thought it was the devil's brew. 433 00:23:32,210 --> 00:23:34,693 But even if it is the devil's brew, bring it on. 434 00:23:35,806 --> 00:23:38,330 (speaking in foreign language) thank you. 435 00:23:38,330 --> 00:23:39,163 Oh lovely. 436 00:23:42,098 --> 00:23:43,607 Perfect (speaking in foreign language). 437 00:23:44,989 --> 00:23:45,822 Thank you. 438 00:23:48,435 --> 00:23:49,420 (engine roaring) 439 00:23:49,420 --> 00:23:50,503 Oh and I can smell he's put cardamom in, 440 00:23:50,503 --> 00:23:52,043 that's really lovely. 441 00:23:55,084 --> 00:23:57,120 Oh my God, I love that. 442 00:23:57,120 --> 00:23:59,900 First caffeine hit of the day. 443 00:23:59,900 --> 00:24:01,639 That is heaven in a cup. 444 00:24:01,639 --> 00:24:04,306 (horn tooting) 445 00:24:05,390 --> 00:24:08,863 Now I'm ready to face the crowds at Egypt's greatest temple. 446 00:24:11,006 --> 00:24:12,660 I'm traveling by roads today 447 00:24:12,660 --> 00:24:14,380 but at the time of the Ancient Egyptians, 448 00:24:14,380 --> 00:24:16,620 I would certainly have been getting from A to B 449 00:24:16,620 --> 00:24:18,060 by traveling down one of the waterways. 450 00:24:18,060 --> 00:24:20,372 Whoops, little bit of a bump in the road. 451 00:24:20,372 --> 00:24:22,699 Because people used the Nile 452 00:24:22,699 --> 00:24:23,930 and it's just really cool 453 00:24:23,930 --> 00:24:25,810 because here you got all kinds of different vehicles 454 00:24:25,810 --> 00:24:28,426 on the road from taxis to tuktuks. 455 00:24:28,426 --> 00:24:29,862 (horn beeping) 456 00:24:29,862 --> 00:24:31,960 And it would've been the same on the ancient waterways. 457 00:24:31,960 --> 00:24:34,649 So you had little cargo ships and barges, 458 00:24:34,649 --> 00:24:38,933 and then these grand royal processional boats. 459 00:24:38,933 --> 00:24:41,683 (peaceful music) 460 00:24:42,680 --> 00:24:44,430 In the far north of modern Luxor, 461 00:24:44,430 --> 00:24:46,663 is the vast Temple of Karnak. 462 00:24:55,114 --> 00:24:58,317 It's 4000 years old and still the largest religious complex 463 00:25:00,250 --> 00:25:01,603 anywhere in the world. 464 00:25:06,430 --> 00:25:08,230 What really strikes me always is just 465 00:25:08,230 --> 00:25:11,550 how rammed with people it would've been in ancient times. 466 00:25:11,550 --> 00:25:14,950 So in fact, all these tourists are completely appropriate. 467 00:25:14,950 --> 00:25:18,530 We know that over 80,000 people worked here. 468 00:25:18,530 --> 00:25:23,310 So it would've been a riot of color and sound and smell. 469 00:25:23,310 --> 00:25:26,140 You'd have the noise of drums and cymbals 470 00:25:26,140 --> 00:25:28,690 and the smell of incense and burnt meat 471 00:25:28,690 --> 00:25:30,920 and priests with their shaven heads 472 00:25:30,920 --> 00:25:33,490 and hairless bodies, abstaining from sex, 473 00:25:33,490 --> 00:25:37,573 so they were pure, rushing around to keep the gods on side. 474 00:25:38,462 --> 00:25:41,212 (dramatic music) 475 00:25:42,590 --> 00:25:45,170 I'm always blown away by this place. 476 00:25:45,170 --> 00:25:47,330 Everything about it is so intense 477 00:25:47,330 --> 00:25:49,733 and so much larger than life. 478 00:25:55,810 --> 00:25:56,970 When people come here, 479 00:25:56,970 --> 00:25:59,480 they always talk about its size and scale, 480 00:25:59,480 --> 00:26:01,800 and it was massive. 481 00:26:01,800 --> 00:26:03,160 So the whole complex stretched 482 00:26:03,160 --> 00:26:05,690 about a mile long and half a mile wide 483 00:26:05,690 --> 00:26:08,773 and covered the area of about 168 football pitches. 484 00:26:10,650 --> 00:26:12,950 But today I'm here to see something 485 00:26:12,950 --> 00:26:17,553 that's a lot smaller but, in its own way, as impressive. 486 00:26:20,320 --> 00:26:21,360 In ancient times, 487 00:26:21,360 --> 00:26:23,230 Karnak Temple would've been bursting 488 00:26:23,230 --> 00:26:26,210 with astronomers, mathematicians and scientists, 489 00:26:26,210 --> 00:26:29,113 all buzzing with new ideas and inventions. 490 00:26:30,820 --> 00:26:34,943 And one of those inventions was this humble looking bucket. 491 00:26:36,170 --> 00:26:38,280 For the priests, it was really important 492 00:26:38,280 --> 00:26:41,780 to perform their rituals at exactly the right time. 493 00:26:41,780 --> 00:26:43,810 And of course, during the day you've got the sun 494 00:26:43,810 --> 00:26:45,900 and you can use sundials to measure hours, 495 00:26:45,900 --> 00:26:47,780 but what do you do at night? 496 00:26:47,780 --> 00:26:49,570 Well, the ancient Egyptians came up 497 00:26:49,570 --> 00:26:51,950 with this really clever idea. 498 00:26:51,950 --> 00:26:54,850 So what this is is a replica of a water clock 499 00:26:54,850 --> 00:26:56,940 that was found here at Karnak. 500 00:26:56,940 --> 00:26:58,130 And what the priest would do is 501 00:26:58,130 --> 00:27:00,060 they'd fill it up with water. 502 00:27:00,060 --> 00:27:03,370 As the water dropped down one notch in the clock, 503 00:27:03,370 --> 00:27:04,730 that would measure an hour 504 00:27:04,730 --> 00:27:07,380 so they could tell the time exactly during the night. 505 00:27:08,870 --> 00:27:11,531 The Egyptians followed a 24 hour clock, 506 00:27:11,531 --> 00:27:14,763 12 hours of day and 12 hours of night. 507 00:27:16,060 --> 00:27:19,770 But the nights grow shorter and longer throughout the year 508 00:27:19,770 --> 00:27:22,320 and this water clock allowed for that 509 00:27:22,320 --> 00:27:25,050 with different measured scales inside 510 00:27:25,050 --> 00:27:26,650 for different times of the year. 511 00:27:29,390 --> 00:27:30,640 So let's see if it works. 512 00:27:32,871 --> 00:27:35,704 (water whooshing) 513 00:27:39,600 --> 00:27:40,570 I think they'd have done it 514 00:27:40,570 --> 00:27:42,870 slightly more professionally than me (laughs). 515 00:27:47,114 --> 00:27:48,953 It's definitely dripping. 516 00:27:51,500 --> 00:27:52,750 And I guess we have to wait an hour 517 00:27:52,750 --> 00:27:54,643 to see if it can tell the time okay. 518 00:27:57,070 --> 00:27:59,510 Simple but brilliant. 519 00:27:59,510 --> 00:28:02,960 And from 1500 BC, these devices would have appeared 520 00:28:02,960 --> 00:28:05,153 in temples up and down the Nile. 521 00:28:08,400 --> 00:28:11,170 Back on the Nile, there's a Luxor treasure 522 00:28:11,170 --> 00:28:12,973 from a very different age. 523 00:28:15,379 --> 00:28:18,412 I've just spotted this boat moored up on the bank. 524 00:28:18,412 --> 00:28:19,340 The SS Sudan. 525 00:28:19,340 --> 00:28:21,542 It was built in the 1920s 526 00:28:21,542 --> 00:28:25,163 and in 1933, it hosted a very special visitor. 527 00:28:26,240 --> 00:28:30,240 I'm gonna see if I can get onboard somehow. 528 00:28:30,240 --> 00:28:31,840 Hello? 529 00:28:31,840 --> 00:28:34,880 Hi, can I come on? 530 00:28:34,880 --> 00:28:36,430 Yeah but please can you come on the other side? 531 00:28:36,430 --> 00:28:38,071 From the other side? 532 00:28:38,071 --> 00:28:38,904 Please. 533 00:28:38,904 --> 00:28:40,116 Great, thank you. 534 00:28:40,116 --> 00:28:43,460 (mysterious jazzy music) 535 00:28:43,460 --> 00:28:45,120 Amazing, thank you very much. 536 00:28:47,779 --> 00:28:49,501 Thank you so much for letting me come on, Bettany. 537 00:28:49,501 --> 00:28:50,527 He is the work manager. 538 00:28:50,527 --> 00:28:52,260 So lovely, and is it okay... 539 00:28:52,260 --> 00:28:55,010 As I step onboard, the SS Sudan I'm following 540 00:28:55,010 --> 00:28:56,000 in the footsteps of one 541 00:28:56,000 --> 00:29:00,240 of the world's best-selling writers, Agatha Christie 542 00:29:04,190 --> 00:29:05,290 That's very kind. 543 00:29:05,290 --> 00:29:06,650 Thank you very much. 544 00:29:06,650 --> 00:29:09,050 Lovely, I've been on a hot boat. 545 00:29:09,050 --> 00:29:14,050 Just show me round 'cause I've seen this from outside. 546 00:29:14,091 --> 00:29:14,924 Oh great! 547 00:29:14,924 --> 00:29:18,603 Yes, this is the original steam machine. 548 00:29:19,510 --> 00:29:22,220 With which the boat was sailing Agatha Christie, 549 00:29:22,220 --> 00:29:23,800 she was onboard. 550 00:29:23,800 --> 00:29:25,590 It's not still powered by steam, is it? 551 00:29:25,590 --> 00:29:27,770 It's a steam and yes. 552 00:29:27,770 --> 00:29:30,131 And do people come onboard to travel here 553 00:29:30,131 --> 00:29:31,498 because of Agatha Christie? 554 00:29:31,498 --> 00:29:36,229 Sure, because of the oldest steamer ship on the Nile 555 00:29:36,229 --> 00:29:38,740 and sure because of Agatha Christie. 556 00:29:38,740 --> 00:29:39,573 Yes. 557 00:29:41,810 --> 00:29:45,430 Agatha Christie isn't just a giant of the literary world. 558 00:29:45,430 --> 00:29:47,840 She was a globe-trotting history buff 559 00:29:47,840 --> 00:29:50,980 who traveled the Middle East with her archeologist husband, 560 00:29:50,980 --> 00:29:53,793 excavating ancient sites in Iraq and Syria. 561 00:29:56,430 --> 00:29:59,570 In 1933, the couple's adventures brought them 562 00:29:59,570 --> 00:30:02,603 to Egypt and to the SS Sudan. 563 00:30:03,614 --> 00:30:06,720 So it's the Royal Lounge, yeah. 564 00:30:06,720 --> 00:30:08,420 Yeah, so it's got that kind 565 00:30:08,420 --> 00:30:10,590 of luxurious feel, hasn't it? 566 00:30:10,590 --> 00:30:13,740 I just love it 'cause I can so imagine Agatha 567 00:30:13,740 --> 00:30:15,860 and her husband sitting and reading and, you know, 568 00:30:15,860 --> 00:30:19,106 enjoying a cocktail or four in the evening. 569 00:30:19,106 --> 00:30:21,689 (bright music) 570 00:30:23,460 --> 00:30:26,820 Agatha was so inspired by her time on the SS Sudan 571 00:30:26,820 --> 00:30:28,220 that she wrote a book set 572 00:30:28,220 --> 00:30:30,903 on a paddle steamer sailing down the Nile. 573 00:30:32,710 --> 00:30:33,630 The result was one 574 00:30:33,630 --> 00:30:37,300 of the best-selling murder mysteries of all time. 575 00:30:37,300 --> 00:30:40,853 And what else did she call it but "Death on the Nile". 576 00:30:43,953 --> 00:30:44,786 You. Me? 577 00:30:44,786 --> 00:30:45,827 Yeah. 578 00:30:45,827 --> 00:30:46,660 Okay, will you hold that? 579 00:30:46,660 --> 00:30:47,509 Please, with pleasure. 580 00:30:47,509 --> 00:30:48,575 Just give it a big tug? 581 00:30:48,575 --> 00:30:49,571 Exactly, three times. 582 00:30:49,571 --> 00:30:50,923 Okay, three times. 583 00:30:50,923 --> 00:30:53,340 (horn toots) 584 00:30:57,292 --> 00:30:58,292 Bye, thanks! 585 00:31:00,390 --> 00:31:02,923 It's full steam ahead for the SS Sudan. 586 00:31:06,380 --> 00:31:09,370 But for me, there's a humble water taxi waiting 587 00:31:11,630 --> 00:31:15,403 because I have one last trip to make to Luxor's West Bank. 588 00:31:16,970 --> 00:31:18,890 Perched at the foot of the hills, 589 00:31:18,890 --> 00:31:23,313 looking back across the Nile is an awe-inspiring monument. 590 00:31:28,630 --> 00:31:32,550 This stunning temple can be busy with tourists, 591 00:31:32,550 --> 00:31:34,950 but get here just after dawn 592 00:31:34,950 --> 00:31:37,003 and you can have the place to yourself. 593 00:31:41,340 --> 00:31:43,040 This was the crowning glory of one 594 00:31:43,040 --> 00:31:48,040 of my all time heroines, the female pharaoh, Hatshepsut. 595 00:31:50,140 --> 00:31:53,500 A remarkable ruler and, brilliantly, 596 00:31:53,500 --> 00:31:56,403 a woman ruling in a man's world. 597 00:31:57,750 --> 00:32:00,520 So here's lovely Hatshepsut. 598 00:32:00,520 --> 00:32:02,610 Now the thing is, of course, at first glance, 599 00:32:02,610 --> 00:32:05,110 she looks like any other male pharaoh. 600 00:32:05,110 --> 00:32:06,870 She's got her king's skirts 601 00:32:06,870 --> 00:32:09,410 and even a little Pharaonic beard. 602 00:32:09,410 --> 00:32:11,640 But we knew this is definitely Hatshepsut 603 00:32:11,640 --> 00:32:15,350 because that's her name in that cartouche up there. 604 00:32:15,350 --> 00:32:19,380 Isn't it fascinating that despite all her progress 605 00:32:19,380 --> 00:32:22,500 and pioneering ideas and power, 606 00:32:22,500 --> 00:32:26,700 this amazingly potent female pharaoh had 607 00:32:26,700 --> 00:32:29,825 to be represented as a man. 608 00:32:29,825 --> 00:32:33,330 (dramatic music) 609 00:32:33,330 --> 00:32:36,920 In Ancient Egypt, men inherited the throne. 610 00:32:36,920 --> 00:32:39,543 In fact, there wasn't even a word for queen. 611 00:32:42,120 --> 00:32:45,010 So when Hatshepsut found herself in charge, 612 00:32:45,010 --> 00:32:47,240 after her husband's early death, 613 00:32:47,240 --> 00:32:49,930 she realized the only way to rule Egypt was 614 00:32:49,930 --> 00:32:52,053 to be better than any king. 615 00:32:54,150 --> 00:32:57,810 You get the sense that she wanted to outdo any man. 616 00:32:57,810 --> 00:32:58,850 This temple, for example, 617 00:32:58,850 --> 00:33:01,920 was unlike anything that Egypt had ever seen before. 618 00:33:01,920 --> 00:33:05,210 Its design was brief progressive and internationalist, 619 00:33:05,210 --> 00:33:08,870 and this whole complex would've looked completely different. 620 00:33:08,870 --> 00:33:10,620 It would've been a riot of color. 621 00:33:10,620 --> 00:33:14,670 There were ponds and lines of incense trees. 622 00:33:14,670 --> 00:33:16,650 It's almost as if Hatshepsut was trying 623 00:33:16,650 --> 00:33:20,233 to seduce her people with her sophistication. 624 00:33:23,290 --> 00:33:26,643 The temple walls tell us more about this intriguing woman. 625 00:33:28,090 --> 00:33:30,720 She sent delegations out across the seas 626 00:33:30,720 --> 00:33:34,020 to get incense and ivory and gold 627 00:33:34,020 --> 00:33:37,423 from places other Egyptian rulers hadn't managed to reach. 628 00:33:40,040 --> 00:33:42,010 And the point of all of this wasn't to prove 629 00:33:42,010 --> 00:33:43,660 what the Egyptians traded in 630 00:33:43,660 --> 00:33:46,483 but that Hatshepsut could make it happen. 631 00:33:50,700 --> 00:33:54,830 Archeologist Dr. Spignier Shafransky has arranged 632 00:33:54,830 --> 00:33:56,370 for me to see a part of the temple 633 00:33:56,370 --> 00:33:58,530 that's usually off limits. 634 00:33:58,530 --> 00:34:00,670 And that gives us intimate insight 635 00:34:00,670 --> 00:34:02,700 to this remarkable woman's life. 636 00:34:02,700 --> 00:34:05,510 That goes way beyond the official line. 637 00:34:05,510 --> 00:34:08,950 Hatshepsut was volcano of ideas 638 00:34:08,950 --> 00:34:13,730 in political, military and religious fields. 639 00:34:13,730 --> 00:34:16,310 She was really brilliant, I may say. 640 00:34:16,310 --> 00:34:18,230 So do you think she is one of the reasons 641 00:34:18,230 --> 00:34:21,350 that Ancient Egyptian civilization became so great? 642 00:34:21,350 --> 00:34:22,300 Yes, yes. 643 00:34:22,300 --> 00:34:25,430 We know a lot about Cleopatra for example, 644 00:34:25,430 --> 00:34:27,220 but in my opinion, 645 00:34:27,220 --> 00:34:29,630 Hatshepsut was really more clever. 646 00:34:29,630 --> 00:34:33,010 She was one of the greatest person 647 00:34:33,010 --> 00:34:35,330 in history of the world at the time. 648 00:34:35,330 --> 00:34:37,380 (dramatic music) 649 00:34:37,380 --> 00:34:40,150 But Hatshepsut had a secret. 650 00:34:40,150 --> 00:34:42,310 It seems she had a bit of a soft spot 651 00:34:42,310 --> 00:34:44,370 for one of her courtiers. 652 00:34:44,370 --> 00:34:47,070 He seems to be a present everywhere. 653 00:34:47,070 --> 00:34:48,300 Yes, yes. 654 00:34:48,300 --> 00:34:51,240 So can you show me where he is here? 655 00:34:51,240 --> 00:34:52,740 Look, he's. 656 00:34:52,740 --> 00:34:53,573 Yes! 657 00:34:54,430 --> 00:34:56,023 This is Senenmut. 658 00:34:56,960 --> 00:34:59,230 Not a member of the Royal family 659 00:34:59,230 --> 00:35:01,780 and yet beautifully depicted all over 660 00:35:01,780 --> 00:35:03,920 the queen of Egypt's temple. 661 00:35:03,920 --> 00:35:05,047 'Cause he's just a commoner 662 00:35:05,047 --> 00:35:07,600 and they don't normally get represented in a place 663 00:35:07,600 --> 00:35:08,920 as sacred as this. 664 00:35:08,920 --> 00:35:11,103 That says something about him. Yes. Yes. 665 00:35:11,940 --> 00:35:15,557 He was a very gifted person, a very talented person. 666 00:35:17,520 --> 00:35:20,350 Senenmut oversaw the temple's construction 667 00:35:20,350 --> 00:35:23,370 and tutored Hatshepsut's daughter. 668 00:35:23,370 --> 00:35:24,210 It's long believed 669 00:35:24,210 --> 00:35:27,400 that his talents captured the queen's attention. 670 00:35:27,400 --> 00:35:29,739 And perhaps even her heart. 671 00:35:29,739 --> 00:35:31,140 Presumably 'cause if the niches 672 00:35:31,140 --> 00:35:32,780 were always closed with doors, 673 00:35:32,780 --> 00:35:35,450 so that image would've been hidden, wouldn't it? 674 00:35:35,450 --> 00:35:36,356 Yes, yes. 675 00:35:36,356 --> 00:35:41,070 The door of the niche was open inside. 676 00:35:41,070 --> 00:35:45,953 So nobody knew about his presence inside the whole place. 677 00:35:47,380 --> 00:35:49,980 By hiding him behind closed doors, 678 00:35:49,980 --> 00:35:52,530 maybe Hatshepsut was trying to keep her relationship 679 00:35:52,530 --> 00:35:54,093 with Senenmut under wraps. 680 00:35:56,660 --> 00:35:59,750 But as the most famous woman in Egypt at the time, 681 00:35:59,750 --> 00:36:01,390 can't have been easy keeping a lid 682 00:36:01,390 --> 00:36:03,483 on juicy bit of gossip like this. 683 00:36:08,800 --> 00:36:10,190 I've heard there's more evidence 684 00:36:10,190 --> 00:36:12,793 of this scandal up in the hills, above the temple. 685 00:36:17,720 --> 00:36:19,963 It's pretty perilous to access, 686 00:36:22,860 --> 00:36:24,680 but archeologists think 687 00:36:24,680 --> 00:36:27,580 this is where the temple builders took their breaks, 688 00:36:27,580 --> 00:36:29,740 sheltering from the sun and catching up 689 00:36:29,740 --> 00:36:31,940 on all the latest news. 690 00:36:31,940 --> 00:36:36,940 I hope this is worth that scramble up the hill in a skirt. 691 00:36:37,280 --> 00:36:38,283 Oh my gosh. 692 00:36:43,380 --> 00:36:44,213 This is it. 693 00:36:44,213 --> 00:36:46,150 Oh, that is amazing. 694 00:36:46,150 --> 00:36:49,620 So this little scribble on the wall here is close 695 00:36:49,620 --> 00:36:53,160 on three and a half thousand years old. 696 00:36:53,160 --> 00:36:57,610 Now, obviously it shows a man having sex with a woman, 697 00:36:57,610 --> 00:37:00,970 but there's something really special to notice here. 698 00:37:00,970 --> 00:37:03,310 The woman has got this thick royal wig on, 699 00:37:03,310 --> 00:37:07,250 so it's probably showing the queen or Hatshepsut herself. 700 00:37:07,250 --> 00:37:09,601 So there are two possibilities here. 701 00:37:09,601 --> 00:37:11,560 Either this is feeding off a rumor 702 00:37:11,560 --> 00:37:14,820 that Senenmut and Hatshepsut were actually lovers, 703 00:37:14,820 --> 00:37:19,690 or it's just a guy having sex with Hatshepsut herself. 704 00:37:19,690 --> 00:37:21,697 And this comes from a time where there was a woman 705 00:37:21,697 --> 00:37:25,280 who was the most powerful female on earth, 706 00:37:25,280 --> 00:37:27,110 doing amazing things. 707 00:37:27,110 --> 00:37:30,490 And the guys sitting here in this little cave wanted 708 00:37:30,490 --> 00:37:32,023 to remember her like this. 709 00:37:33,120 --> 00:37:34,530 Three and a half thousand years on, 710 00:37:34,530 --> 00:37:37,398 sometimes it feels like very little has changed. 711 00:37:37,398 --> 00:37:40,148 (dramatic music) 712 00:37:45,040 --> 00:37:47,623 After two busy days and nights in and around Luxor, 713 00:37:49,690 --> 00:37:52,023 and some well-earned shore leave for the crew. 714 00:37:53,100 --> 00:37:56,350 It's time to set sail and continue my journey. 715 00:38:05,900 --> 00:38:07,580 Sadly I've gotta leave Luxor 716 00:38:07,580 --> 00:38:09,890 but there are lots of discoveries 717 00:38:09,890 --> 00:38:11,733 and delights still to come. 718 00:38:14,490 --> 00:38:19,273 I'm heading for Egypt's more remote and enthralling south. 719 00:38:25,040 --> 00:38:27,630 I'm leaving the hustle and bustle of Luxor 720 00:38:27,630 --> 00:38:31,363 to travel deep into Egypt's beautiful south. 721 00:38:33,470 --> 00:38:37,783 It's much quieter here, but we're not entirely alone. 722 00:38:39,269 --> 00:38:42,102 (people cheering) 723 00:38:43,013 --> 00:38:44,670 So surreal, so random. 724 00:38:46,223 --> 00:38:47,580 Wow. 725 00:38:47,580 --> 00:38:52,000 Another dahabeah and flying a Union flag too. 726 00:38:52,000 --> 00:38:53,360 If these are Brits, 727 00:38:53,360 --> 00:38:55,030 they're continuing the grand tradition 728 00:38:55,030 --> 00:38:58,377 of sailing down the Nile that started centuries ago. 729 00:39:02,270 --> 00:39:04,680 I love the fact, the crew, they all know each other 730 00:39:04,680 --> 00:39:07,640 so they have a bit of information exchange, they go... 731 00:39:07,640 --> 00:39:10,223 (men shouting) 732 00:39:13,477 --> 00:39:15,380 And just along the bank, 733 00:39:15,380 --> 00:39:18,100 there's something else I am determined 734 00:39:18,100 --> 00:39:20,440 to pay my respects to. 735 00:39:20,440 --> 00:39:22,460 It's not a template or a tomb, 736 00:39:22,460 --> 00:39:25,783 but I think it's the unsung hero of Ancient Egypt. 737 00:39:27,980 --> 00:39:29,143 The humble donkey. 738 00:39:31,198 --> 00:39:34,030 This lovely guy who was working his fields a moment ago 739 00:39:34,030 --> 00:39:37,173 and he's now bringing us his donkey, I think. 740 00:39:38,600 --> 00:39:41,923 Oh my gosh, we're being offered a cow as well. 741 00:39:47,490 --> 00:39:48,590 Thanks, Aslam, thanks. 742 00:39:49,500 --> 00:39:50,860 Thank you very much. 743 00:39:50,860 --> 00:39:51,738 Thank you. 744 00:39:51,738 --> 00:39:52,760 Hello. 745 00:39:52,760 --> 00:39:54,260 Hello, morning. 746 00:39:54,260 --> 00:39:55,573 Nice to see you. 747 00:39:56,581 --> 00:39:57,414 Hi. Good morning, hi. 748 00:39:57,414 --> 00:40:00,563 Hello, oh, you're beautiful. 749 00:40:01,750 --> 00:40:03,530 Is it a girl or a boy? 750 00:40:03,530 --> 00:40:04,430 It's a donkey. 751 00:40:04,430 --> 00:40:07,360 It's a donkey, yeah, I know it's a donkey. 752 00:40:07,360 --> 00:40:08,463 Oh, he's lovely. 753 00:40:08,463 --> 00:40:09,296 Lovely. 754 00:40:09,296 --> 00:40:10,590 Really lovely. 755 00:40:10,590 --> 00:40:12,123 Very beautiful donkey. 756 00:40:13,530 --> 00:40:15,120 He might look sweet, 757 00:40:15,120 --> 00:40:17,860 but he's actually as tough as old boots. 758 00:40:17,860 --> 00:40:20,640 Donkeys can pull up to twice their body weight 759 00:40:20,640 --> 00:40:22,090 and even in these temperatures, 760 00:40:22,090 --> 00:40:26,640 they can go without water for an astonishing three days. 761 00:40:26,640 --> 00:40:28,500 But apparently he loves swimming. 762 00:40:28,500 --> 00:40:30,900 So we're gonna go for a little dip (screams) 763 00:40:30,900 --> 00:40:32,350 in the Nile instead (laughs). 764 00:40:33,944 --> 00:40:36,527 (upbeat music) 765 00:40:37,790 --> 00:40:39,080 Hello lovely one. 766 00:40:40,037 --> 00:40:41,703 Oh, is that nice, yeah. 767 00:40:44,310 --> 00:40:49,280 So at the end of every night as you go down the Nile, 768 00:40:49,280 --> 00:40:51,400 you see people bringing the donkeys and their horses in 769 00:40:51,400 --> 00:40:54,220 to give them a cooling bath. 770 00:40:54,220 --> 00:40:57,270 It's just such a lovely sight and totally timeless. 771 00:40:57,270 --> 00:40:59,750 They definitely did this in Ancient Egypt too. 772 00:40:59,750 --> 00:41:00,950 We'd got pictures of it. 773 00:41:04,010 --> 00:41:06,530 And they deserved a bath. 774 00:41:06,530 --> 00:41:10,160 It was donkeys that did huge amounts of hard work, 775 00:41:10,160 --> 00:41:13,100 in fields and on building sites. 776 00:41:13,100 --> 00:41:14,960 It's a bizarre thought. 777 00:41:14,960 --> 00:41:16,830 None of the pyramids, the temples, 778 00:41:16,830 --> 00:41:18,620 the tombs I've seen in my journey 779 00:41:18,620 --> 00:41:22,800 would've existed if it hadn't been for these gentle beasts. 780 00:41:22,800 --> 00:41:24,380 So although this might seem slightly odd, 781 00:41:24,380 --> 00:41:26,908 it is in fact completely appropriate 782 00:41:26,908 --> 00:41:29,270 that we're treating this random donkey 783 00:41:29,270 --> 00:41:31,230 a bit like a pharaoh 784 00:41:31,230 --> 00:41:33,500 and giving him his own personal bath 785 00:41:33,500 --> 00:41:34,500 in the waters of the Nile 786 00:41:34,500 --> 00:41:37,492 because, after all, it was the donkey 787 00:41:37,492 --> 00:41:41,480 that built the great civilization of Ancient Egypt. 788 00:41:41,480 --> 00:41:42,380 Thank you. 789 00:41:42,380 --> 00:41:43,213 Thank you. 790 00:41:44,195 --> 00:41:46,570 Oh, very wet shoes. 791 00:41:46,570 --> 00:41:47,403 Oh my God. 792 00:41:47,403 --> 00:41:48,480 My shoes are too wet. 793 00:41:48,480 --> 00:41:49,467 Oh my God (laughs). 794 00:41:50,643 --> 00:41:53,393 (dramatic music) 795 00:42:08,103 --> 00:42:08,936 We're now 35 miles upstream of Luxor 796 00:42:11,180 --> 00:42:13,710 and the captain's just told us that we've gotta slow down 797 00:42:13,710 --> 00:42:15,943 because we're approaching the Esna Barrage. 798 00:42:19,820 --> 00:42:22,890 This is one of six dams along the Nile in Egypt, 799 00:42:22,890 --> 00:42:24,880 used to control the annual floods, 800 00:42:24,880 --> 00:42:27,433 and, in some cases, to generate electricity. 801 00:42:30,560 --> 00:42:32,740 The Ancient Egyptians also built dams 802 00:42:32,740 --> 00:42:34,789 and locks so that they could regulate the flow 803 00:42:34,789 --> 00:42:35,950 of the Nile too. 804 00:42:35,950 --> 00:42:39,320 So it's a kind of 20th century equivalent 805 00:42:39,320 --> 00:42:40,863 of a very ancient practice. 806 00:42:42,170 --> 00:42:44,330 And it makes our sailors very unhappy 807 00:42:44,330 --> 00:42:46,810 because they say they get rather claustrophobic 808 00:42:46,810 --> 00:42:48,450 when they go inside. 809 00:42:48,450 --> 00:42:49,283 Okay? 810 00:42:52,810 --> 00:42:55,950 All the traffic on the Nile here has to go through one lock. 811 00:42:55,950 --> 00:42:57,863 That's not much wider than our boat. 812 00:43:02,667 --> 00:43:05,440 But the dam is the gateway to the south. 813 00:43:08,100 --> 00:43:10,940 Behind me lie the familiar sights of Ancient Egypt 814 00:43:12,110 --> 00:43:14,780 and ahead lies the lesser known 815 00:43:14,780 --> 00:43:16,960 and even more intriguing south 816 00:43:17,990 --> 00:43:20,240 but getting there is proving a tight squeeze. 817 00:43:21,747 --> 00:43:25,664 (shouting in foreign language) 818 00:43:36,490 --> 00:43:38,210 It was slightly more tense 819 00:43:38,210 --> 00:43:39,810 than I thought it was gonna be 820 00:43:39,810 --> 00:43:41,760 because we got a lot closer to the sides 821 00:43:41,760 --> 00:43:44,470 and there was a kind of frenetic rope action. 822 00:43:44,470 --> 00:43:46,870 But the boys did amazingly and we are through safely 823 00:43:46,870 --> 00:43:50,293 and now we are continuing our journey south. 824 00:43:53,031 --> 00:43:54,350 Hello, good luck! 825 00:43:54,350 --> 00:43:55,333 Next time, 826 00:43:57,210 --> 00:43:59,885 I sail into the beautiful city of Aswan. 827 00:43:59,885 --> 00:44:02,110 Now that is how I like my views. 828 00:44:02,110 --> 00:44:04,090 I'll join the crowds and the rising sun 829 00:44:04,090 --> 00:44:06,003 for some Ancient Egyptian magic. 830 00:44:07,650 --> 00:44:09,400 And as my Nile journey ends, 831 00:44:09,400 --> 00:44:13,030 I discover a 3000-year-old message from a pharaoh. 832 00:44:13,030 --> 00:44:14,810 Amazing and it's just all appearing right 833 00:44:14,810 --> 00:44:16,524 in front of our eyes. 834 00:44:16,524 --> 00:44:19,274 (dramatic music) 62327

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