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(peaceful music)
(birds chirping)
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For 5,000 years, this land, Egypt,
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and the epic civilization it gave birth to
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has been shaped by one thing more than any other,
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this awesome river.
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The River Nile.
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The Nile helped temples to rise,
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pharaohs to rule, and pyramids to be built.
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Without the Nile, there'd have been no ancient Egypt.
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So I'm making the historical journey of a lifetime,
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a 900-mile adventure along the Nile,
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across the whole of Egypt.
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I'll explore Egypt's greatest achievements.
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It is truly wonderful, isn't it?
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And find treasures hidden for thousands of years.
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Oh my God.
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That's a sheer drop down there.
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This is my chance to travel this fabulous land.
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Oh lovely!
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And experience it as the Ancient Egyptians did.
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From the River Nile.
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From pharaohs to slaves,
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from facts to fantasies, I want to explore firsthand
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and to understand how this river shaped one
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of the world's first and greatest civilizations.
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Join me as I uncover 5,000 years of history
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along the River Nile.
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(dramatic music)
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So far on my journey up the Nile,
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I've explored many of the treasures
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that helped to create Ancient Egypt.
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And now as the river gets busier,
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I'm coming to one incredible stretch
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that reveals a huge amount
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about the Egyptians' obsession with life and death.
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This river gave rise to one
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of the most captivating civilizations in the world
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and a jewel in the crown is where I'm heading now, Luxor.
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300 miles south of Cairo on the east bank of the Nile
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is a famous city full of ancient wonders.
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I love visiting Luxor and I'm certainly not alone.
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This is a stretch of the river
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that's welcomed everyone from Tutankhamen
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to Winston Churchill, from Cleopatra to Agatha Christie.
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It was travelers from the Victorian age
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who helped to make Luxor super fashionable.
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Here, they could swap the British winter
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for 30 degree temperatures and 5,000 years of culture.
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But it didn't come cheap.
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The trip from Cairo to Luxor cost
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an eye-watering 12,000 pounds in today's money.
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But to one Victorian traveler, that was small change.
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Queen Victoria's son, the Prince of Wales,
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the future Edward the Seventh came to the Nile
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and he so loved it he came back twice.
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Now he traveled in quite some style.
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He had six steamships decorated with friezes
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of Antony and Cleopatra and behind them,
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he had a barge carrying 4,000 bottles of claret
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and 3000 bottles of champagne.
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Plus what every good dahabeah needs, a donkey.
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(bright music)
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Donkeys were used to fetch supplies from the banks.
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But it seems today that the Nile
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has brought the shopping to us.
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Oh hello!
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Oh hi!
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(man shouting)
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I'm sure special price.
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These very enterprising boys.
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Yeah, that's beautiful.
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Have hooked on to try and sell me a dress and a tablecloth.
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Shall I come down?
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Okay.
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Hey!
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English?
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Oh my gosh?
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English?
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English, yes.
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Very good!
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It's a lovely towel.
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I would get one but I've already got one at home.
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Nefertiti, that's Nefertiti.
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That's actually quite nice.
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I'm gonna buy that one.
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I'm gonna buy it, actually.
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I'm sure my husband would love that.
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He'd look very nice in it.
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Show me the one for my husband again (laughs).
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Wait, wait, no, no, no.
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Oh my God!
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Thank you!
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Bravo, bravo!
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That is my years of cricket practice with my brother
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in the garden.
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Now I think I've gotta buy it.
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Money, okay!
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Okay.
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Oh my God.
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Oh, okay.
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And, here on the Nile, there's even contactless payment.
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I've gotta throw the money back in a plastic bag.
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One, two, three.
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Look, thank you.
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Isn't it great?
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Everybody sees as an opportunity,
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and actually I think it's huge.
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(bright music)
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Luxor is the number one tourist destination on the Nile
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with spectacular temples
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and tombs scattered across either side of the river.
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There's tons to see here.
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So the crew are gonna moor up for a couple of days
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because I want to see what these spectacular sites
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can tell us about the Egyptian experience of life and death.
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After difficult times in Egypt,
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it's brilliant to see so many tourists flooding back
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to the city here on the east bank.
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(engine sputtering)
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But I'm crossing straight to Luxor's famous West Bank.
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It's only a short hop across the river,
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but for the Ancient Egyptians,
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this was a highly symbolic journey.
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I'm moving from the east bank, the land of the living,
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to the west bank where the sun sets
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and where the Ancient Egyptians buried their secrets.
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The land of the dead,
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which of course ironically means
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that in terms of stories and archeological discovery,
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it is very much alive.
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(peaceful music)
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Three miles inland from the river is a place
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that's very close to my heart,
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the legendary Valley of the Kings.
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(dramatic music)
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It was the fabulous treasures hidden
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beneath these barren slopes
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that first sparked my interest in history
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way back when I was five.
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And one discovery here sits above all others.
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It was made by two Brits,
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archeologist Howard Carter
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and wealthy aristocrat Lord Carnarvon.
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Carnarvon and Carter
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had actually worked together for 15 years
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before they discovered the tomb of Tutankhamen.
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Carnarvon was really passionate about what he did in Egypt.
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I mean, he loved being here.
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He learnt some Arabic,
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the locals called him Lordy and he wrote
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that he drank thick black Turkish coffee every morning,
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but he also poured money into these excavations.
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And at one point he was hiring up to 275 boys
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to do the work.
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So the two of them were really, really serious
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about trying to find something.
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And once they did, it was the discovery of the century
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and captured the imagination of the world.
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(dramatic music)
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In the heat and dust, you really get a sense
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of what it must've been like digging here 100 years ago.
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As Carter and his team searched for a long-lost tomb.
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After five years of hard work
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on the 26th of November, 1922,
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Carter and Carnarvon scrambled down this very passageway.
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It's a story that's been told a number of times,
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but it is always worth the retelling.
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When Carnarvon and Carter were about
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to break into the chamber,
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Carter looked through a tiny hole
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and describes the glint of gold everywhere.
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"What can you see?" Said Carnarvon.
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And Carter simply said, "Wonderful things."
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(uplifting music)
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Tut's tomb stunned the world
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and it's been drawing crowds ever since.
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I remember I went to that Tutankhamen exhibition
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in 1972, it was one at the British Museum,
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and that's what got me into history
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so it's really lovely to see.
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But the truth is, Tut's tomb isn't actually that remarkable.
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It's surprisingly small for a pharaoh
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and the decoration looks a bit rushed,
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even in some places a bit second rate.
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You were sayin' it's so much smaller
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than obviously the bigger tombs.
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We've just been in Rameses the Third's.
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And obviously it goes down and down and down and down
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and you come into this and it's just compact.
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Was it 'cause it was a rushed burial?
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Exactly, yeah.
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It's now believed that Tut was buried
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in a tomb originally prepared for someone else.
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Perhaps Tut's own tomb wasn't ready.
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That would make sense
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because we know he died when he was just a teenager.
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Worth the effort coming here?
Definitely.
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Definitely for me.
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And the boys?
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The boys, well, they're boys aren't they?
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(man laughs)
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Luckily for those who need a bit more convincing,
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the Valley of the Kings also boasts
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the most spectacular tombs in Egypt
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and just a few meters away,
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there is an absolute showstopper.
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Tutankhamen's tomb is the most famous
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in the Valley of the Kings.
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But, to my mind,
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his neighbor's tomb is even more intriguing.
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It shows us the Ancient Egyptians
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at their most brilliant and badly behaved.
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Just around the corner from Tut's tomb,
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'cause of course this is a whole city of the dead
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so there are burials everywhere
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there is a real show-stopper tomb.
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And if you wanna get a sense of what a burial is like
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when a pharaoh has pulled out all of the stops
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then you should come here to KV9
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although actually hardly anybody visits it.
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KV9 stands for King's Valley number nine,
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a pretty unassuming name
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for an absolutely jaw-dropping site.
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(dramatic music)
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It's five times the size of Tut's
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and instantly more impressive.
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So this is what a royal tomb really should look like.
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It stretches over 100 meters deep into the rock.
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The walls are covered with images and ideas and stories
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that are supposed to guarantee the successful journey
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of the pharaoh through the underworld
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and on into the afterlife.
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Several images show that journey being made
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on a flat-bottomed Nile boat.
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(dramatic music)
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KV9 is, for me, the high point
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of over 1000 years worth of Egyptian tomb building.
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The 3000-year-old decoration looks
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as though it was painted yesterday.
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But look a bit closer and you'll see something
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that shouldn't be there.
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Graffiti in Latin and Greek.
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Some of it dates back at least 2000 years.
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People have been coming here for centuries,
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some just to visit, but others to loot.
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Tombs like these were protected with curses,
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may death come on wings
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to he who enters the tomb of the pharaoh.
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But there were some who clearly took no heed
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of that warning here.
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Within just 20 years, the tomb was robbed.
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This massive stone sarcophagus was smashed
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and the mummy inside was desecrated with an ax
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and all the treasure was stolen.
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The world's most famous cemetery is also a crime scene.
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All the tombs discovered here
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in the valley so far have turned out to be robbed.
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But the truth is, this isn't just random looters.
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Quite often it's the men who built the tombs themselves,
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or it was an officially sanctioned robbery.
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So it's one pharaoh getting their own back on another.
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This was a pretty risky business though.
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In Ancient Egypt,
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the death penalty wasn't actually used that much,
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but you could be killed for robbing a tomb.
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And the manner of death was pretty horrific.
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You were either impaled or burnt alive.
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(dramatic music)
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00:15:27,880 --> 00:15:30,040
It wasn't just the rich who were fascinated
270
00:15:30,040 --> 00:15:31,693
by both life and death.
271
00:15:40,090 --> 00:15:41,870
Almost two miles across the hills
272
00:15:41,870 --> 00:15:45,060
from the Valley of the Kings is a remarkable
273
00:15:45,060 --> 00:15:47,350
and very different site.
274
00:15:47,350 --> 00:15:51,250
Deir el-Medina, a village that was home to the workers
275
00:15:51,250 --> 00:15:53,143
who built the pharaohs' tombs.
276
00:15:55,870 --> 00:15:59,430
It contains extraordinary evidence that, for me,
277
00:15:59,430 --> 00:16:01,623
brings these ordinary people to life.
278
00:16:02,960 --> 00:16:05,633
It's a 40 minute walk from the Valley of the Kings.
279
00:16:06,830 --> 00:16:08,790
So I'm now treading in the footsteps
280
00:16:08,790 --> 00:16:11,990
of the Ancient Egyptians who made this punishing journey
281
00:16:11,990 --> 00:16:15,163
to and from work every few days.
282
00:16:18,560 --> 00:16:22,450
And we're now walking up the main street of the village.
283
00:16:22,450 --> 00:16:25,343
You can see that the houses are so close together.
284
00:16:26,520 --> 00:16:28,590
Egyptologist Yasmin El Shazly
285
00:16:28,590 --> 00:16:31,913
has spent 15 years studying this unique community.
286
00:16:32,980 --> 00:16:35,910
People are normally very interested in the kings,
287
00:16:35,910 --> 00:16:40,910
but I think the average Egyptian was much more interesting.
288
00:16:41,656 --> 00:16:45,670
Because normally royal art and architecture
289
00:16:45,670 --> 00:16:46,940
are full of propaganda.
290
00:16:46,940 --> 00:16:49,470
So that's not who they really were,
291
00:16:49,470 --> 00:16:50,893
but this is the real thing.
292
00:16:51,960 --> 00:16:54,150
And more than just mere builders,
293
00:16:54,150 --> 00:16:57,970
Deir el-Medina was home to craftsmen and women.
294
00:16:57,970 --> 00:17:01,400
You had a community full of, you know, talent.
295
00:17:01,400 --> 00:17:05,990
You have the best artists, the best scribes,
296
00:17:05,990 --> 00:17:08,430
the best craftsman.
297
00:17:08,430 --> 00:17:10,740
So it's very special.
298
00:17:10,740 --> 00:17:11,790
Right, so that means that we haven't
299
00:17:11,790 --> 00:17:13,250
just got a village of people,
300
00:17:13,250 --> 00:17:14,480
but of articulate people
301
00:17:14,480 --> 00:17:16,348
or people who are kind of used to expressing themselves.
302
00:17:16,348 --> 00:17:17,598
Yeah, exactly.
303
00:17:19,430 --> 00:17:20,810
And luckily for us,
304
00:17:20,810 --> 00:17:22,550
they express themselves on something
305
00:17:22,550 --> 00:17:26,200
that survived for three and a half thousand years
306
00:17:26,200 --> 00:17:28,543
and against all the odds.
307
00:17:30,400 --> 00:17:33,340
North of the temple over here was a pit
308
00:17:33,340 --> 00:17:36,940
that was probably dug to be a well
309
00:17:36,940 --> 00:17:38,810
but it ended up being a dump.
310
00:17:38,810 --> 00:17:40,110
Inside the pit,
311
00:17:40,110 --> 00:17:43,253
archeologists found thousands of ostrica.
312
00:17:44,280 --> 00:17:46,240
Ostrica are chips of limestone
313
00:17:46,240 --> 00:17:49,253
that the workmen used to write on.
314
00:17:50,650 --> 00:17:52,680
So imagine someone going through your garbage,
315
00:17:52,680 --> 00:17:54,300
how much information they would get.
316
00:17:54,300 --> 00:17:55,133
Unfortunately.
317
00:17:56,378 --> 00:17:57,653
About your daily life.
318
00:17:59,350 --> 00:18:00,933
We found legal documents,
319
00:18:01,800 --> 00:18:04,860
letters to the living and letters to the dead,
320
00:18:04,860 --> 00:18:09,000
love songs, even the attendance of the workmen
321
00:18:09,000 --> 00:18:11,510
and the reasons why they were absent from work.
322
00:18:11,510 --> 00:18:13,140
And why were they absent?
323
00:18:13,140 --> 00:18:15,840
Sometimes they're celebrating a festival
324
00:18:15,840 --> 00:18:17,210
of a certain God.
325
00:18:17,210 --> 00:18:18,620
And could it sometimes be not just
326
00:18:18,620 --> 00:18:20,510
'cause they were celebrating,
327
00:18:20,510 --> 00:18:22,770
but because they had a hangover after the celebration.
328
00:18:22,770 --> 00:18:24,150
That's very possible too.
329
00:18:24,150 --> 00:18:26,083
They used to drink a lot of beer.
330
00:18:27,260 --> 00:18:30,250
I love the idea, people nursing sore heads here.
331
00:18:30,250 --> 00:18:32,480
Going, oh, just tell them I can't come into work today.
332
00:18:32,480 --> 00:18:34,610
It was too much last night.
333
00:18:34,610 --> 00:18:35,443
Very true.
334
00:18:38,750 --> 00:18:40,940
I've been given incredibly privileged access
335
00:18:40,940 --> 00:18:42,430
to one place in the village
336
00:18:42,430 --> 00:18:45,300
that's only just been opened after years of restoration.
337
00:18:45,300 --> 00:18:48,300
(suspenseful music)
338
00:18:52,403 --> 00:18:55,280
It belonged to a man guilty of much more
339
00:18:55,280 --> 00:18:57,543
than simply skiving off work.
340
00:19:02,423 --> 00:19:03,820
Oh, amazing.
341
00:19:03,820 --> 00:19:04,653
This is brilliant.
342
00:19:04,653 --> 00:19:05,530
This is what I was looking for.
343
00:19:05,530 --> 00:19:09,313
So this is the tomb of someone called Paneb.
344
00:19:10,242 --> 00:19:12,180
I think that's Paneb
345
00:19:12,180 --> 00:19:14,920
and that's almost certainly his wife behind him.
346
00:19:14,920 --> 00:19:19,373
And there's Anubis, representing the god of the underworld.
347
00:19:20,990 --> 00:19:24,010
Paneb wasn't royalty so his tomb is much smaller
348
00:19:24,010 --> 00:19:26,550
than the ones in the Valley of the Kings.
349
00:19:26,550 --> 00:19:28,680
But even though he wasn't famous,
350
00:19:28,680 --> 00:19:30,950
we still know an amazing amount about him
351
00:19:30,950 --> 00:19:33,223
thanks to evidence discovered in the village.
352
00:19:34,190 --> 00:19:37,223
And the story it tells is shocking.
353
00:19:39,793 --> 00:19:42,040
Paneb stops being an ordinary worker
354
00:19:42,040 --> 00:19:44,893
and elevates himself somehow to become a chief workman.
355
00:19:48,450 --> 00:19:50,040
Then the plot thickens,
356
00:19:50,040 --> 00:19:52,030
one of the laborers accuses Paneb
357
00:19:52,030 --> 00:19:53,570
of stealing building material
358
00:19:53,570 --> 00:19:57,223
from a royal tomb to construct his new burial place.
359
00:19:58,620 --> 00:19:59,540
Not only that,
360
00:19:59,540 --> 00:20:02,380
but there are 16 other charges leveled against him.
361
00:20:02,380 --> 00:20:05,290
And this is really serious stuff.
362
00:20:05,290 --> 00:20:07,430
So he was accused of adultery,
363
00:20:07,430 --> 00:20:10,560
of sexual abuse of the women in the village,
364
00:20:10,560 --> 00:20:13,160
of falling into kind of drunken rages
365
00:20:13,160 --> 00:20:14,890
so that he's incredibly violent
366
00:20:14,890 --> 00:20:19,053
and even of killing someone to cover up his crimes.
367
00:20:20,010 --> 00:20:22,260
Now we don't know what happened in the end to Paneb
368
00:20:22,260 --> 00:20:25,150
but, for me, what's so brilliant is
369
00:20:25,150 --> 00:20:27,330
that we still got these intimate details
370
00:20:27,330 --> 00:20:29,540
of ordinary Egyptians' lives,
371
00:20:29,540 --> 00:20:32,200
their affairs, their intrigues, the bullying,
372
00:20:32,200 --> 00:20:35,174
the social climbing, and the scandal.
373
00:20:35,174 --> 00:20:38,174
(suspenseful music)
374
00:20:42,110 --> 00:20:43,993
It's been a long day in the desert.
375
00:20:45,710 --> 00:20:48,953
I'm heading back across the river to Luxor's east bank.
376
00:20:55,760 --> 00:20:59,680
This is one of the hottest and driest cities in the world,
377
00:20:59,680 --> 00:21:02,597
where daytime temperatures can hit 50 degrees.
378
00:21:02,597 --> 00:21:05,097
(eerie music)
379
00:21:09,010 --> 00:21:10,840
So as the sun sets,
380
00:21:10,840 --> 00:21:15,103
the locals come out and Luxor comes alive.
381
00:21:15,103 --> 00:21:17,686
(bright music)
382
00:21:23,570 --> 00:21:25,930
The Ancient Egyptians used to welcome visitors
383
00:21:25,930 --> 00:21:28,520
to celebrate the joy of ka,
384
00:21:28,520 --> 00:21:31,380
to love the spirit of life.
385
00:21:31,380 --> 00:21:35,423
And that warm welcome is still definitely on offer.
386
00:21:41,368 --> 00:21:43,070
So I was dragged in here by these kids
387
00:21:43,070 --> 00:21:45,440
who said there's something gonna happen.
388
00:21:45,440 --> 00:21:46,640
How brilliant to see that dancing.
389
00:21:46,640 --> 00:21:48,580
And actually when we think of Ancient Egypt,
390
00:21:48,580 --> 00:21:49,413
we often think of it
391
00:21:49,413 --> 00:21:51,348
as something being rather stiff and staged.
392
00:21:51,348 --> 00:21:53,447
But actually they loved their festivals
393
00:21:53,447 --> 00:21:56,057
and their music and their dancing
394
00:21:56,057 --> 00:21:57,690
and their beer drinking.
395
00:21:57,690 --> 00:21:59,280
Beer was the kind of staple drink
396
00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:02,890
and they had festivals of drunkenness up and down the Nile.
397
00:22:02,890 --> 00:22:06,720
So they were the original party people.
398
00:22:06,720 --> 00:22:07,650
Where are we going now?
399
00:22:07,650 --> 00:22:08,760
Oh, we're off.
400
00:22:10,970 --> 00:22:13,500
It's tempting to burn the candle at both ends
401
00:22:13,500 --> 00:22:15,660
because tomorrow I'm up super early
402
00:22:15,660 --> 00:22:18,180
for one of the highlights of my journey,
403
00:22:18,180 --> 00:22:20,953
Egypt's most famous temple.
404
00:22:27,380 --> 00:22:30,610
With my lovely dahabeah moored up for a few days,
405
00:22:30,610 --> 00:22:32,910
I'm exploring the ancient wonders surrounding
406
00:22:32,910 --> 00:22:33,823
the city of Luxor.
407
00:22:35,450 --> 00:22:38,486
Today I'm visiting the city's most famous monument.
408
00:22:38,486 --> 00:22:41,069
(horn beeping)
409
00:22:42,531 --> 00:22:44,720
But after a night on the town,
410
00:22:44,720 --> 00:22:46,823
there's one stop I have to make first.
411
00:22:47,730 --> 00:22:50,002
Hi, salaam, can I get a coffee?
412
00:22:50,002 --> 00:22:51,310
Coffee.
Coffee.
413
00:22:51,310 --> 00:22:52,143
Sugar?
414
00:22:52,143 --> 00:22:53,086
Sugar.
415
00:22:53,086 --> 00:22:54,560
(speaking in foreign language)
416
00:22:54,560 --> 00:22:55,393
Okay.
417
00:22:55,393 --> 00:22:56,293
Yeah, thank you, (speaking in foreign language).
418
00:22:59,710 --> 00:23:03,440
I cannot get through a day without an Egyptian coffee.
419
00:23:03,440 --> 00:23:04,600
And it's actually very appropriate
420
00:23:04,600 --> 00:23:05,433
that I'm drinking it here
421
00:23:05,433 --> 00:23:07,262
because this is one of the first places
422
00:23:07,262 --> 00:23:09,830
in recorded history where we know
423
00:23:09,830 --> 00:23:12,620
that coffee was drunk in Cairo, actually.
424
00:23:12,620 --> 00:23:14,640
Some people think it came from North Africa.
425
00:23:14,640 --> 00:23:16,750
Some people think coffee came from Yemen,
426
00:23:16,750 --> 00:23:19,530
but when it was first spotted,
427
00:23:19,530 --> 00:23:21,150
goats ate the coffee beans
428
00:23:21,150 --> 00:23:23,480
and they danced around in this wild way.
429
00:23:23,480 --> 00:23:24,313
So that they noticed
430
00:23:24,313 --> 00:23:26,350
it was probably gonna be quite a useful stimulant
431
00:23:26,350 --> 00:23:29,530
but as a result, there were sections of society
432
00:23:29,530 --> 00:23:32,210
that thought it was the devil's brew.
433
00:23:32,210 --> 00:23:34,693
But even if it is the devil's brew, bring it on.
434
00:23:35,806 --> 00:23:38,330
(speaking in foreign language) thank you.
435
00:23:38,330 --> 00:23:39,163
Oh lovely.
436
00:23:42,098 --> 00:23:43,607
Perfect (speaking in foreign language).
437
00:23:44,989 --> 00:23:45,822
Thank you.
438
00:23:48,435 --> 00:23:49,420
(engine roaring)
439
00:23:49,420 --> 00:23:50,503
Oh and I can smell he's put cardamom in,
440
00:23:50,503 --> 00:23:52,043
that's really lovely.
441
00:23:55,084 --> 00:23:57,120
Oh my God, I love that.
442
00:23:57,120 --> 00:23:59,900
First caffeine hit of the day.
443
00:23:59,900 --> 00:24:01,639
That is heaven in a cup.
444
00:24:01,639 --> 00:24:04,306
(horn tooting)
445
00:24:05,390 --> 00:24:08,863
Now I'm ready to face the crowds at Egypt's greatest temple.
446
00:24:11,006 --> 00:24:12,660
I'm traveling by roads today
447
00:24:12,660 --> 00:24:14,380
but at the time of the Ancient Egyptians,
448
00:24:14,380 --> 00:24:16,620
I would certainly have been getting from A to B
449
00:24:16,620 --> 00:24:18,060
by traveling down one of the waterways.
450
00:24:18,060 --> 00:24:20,372
Whoops, little bit of a bump in the road.
451
00:24:20,372 --> 00:24:22,699
Because people used the Nile
452
00:24:22,699 --> 00:24:23,930
and it's just really cool
453
00:24:23,930 --> 00:24:25,810
because here you got all kinds of different vehicles
454
00:24:25,810 --> 00:24:28,426
on the road from taxis to tuktuks.
455
00:24:28,426 --> 00:24:29,862
(horn beeping)
456
00:24:29,862 --> 00:24:31,960
And it would've been the same on the ancient waterways.
457
00:24:31,960 --> 00:24:34,649
So you had little cargo ships and barges,
458
00:24:34,649 --> 00:24:38,933
and then these grand royal processional boats.
459
00:24:38,933 --> 00:24:41,683
(peaceful music)
460
00:24:42,680 --> 00:24:44,430
In the far north of modern Luxor,
461
00:24:44,430 --> 00:24:46,663
is the vast Temple of Karnak.
462
00:24:55,114 --> 00:24:58,317
It's 4000 years old and still the largest religious complex
463
00:25:00,250 --> 00:25:01,603
anywhere in the world.
464
00:25:06,430 --> 00:25:08,230
What really strikes me always is just
465
00:25:08,230 --> 00:25:11,550
how rammed with people it would've been in ancient times.
466
00:25:11,550 --> 00:25:14,950
So in fact, all these tourists are completely appropriate.
467
00:25:14,950 --> 00:25:18,530
We know that over 80,000 people worked here.
468
00:25:18,530 --> 00:25:23,310
So it would've been a riot of color and sound and smell.
469
00:25:23,310 --> 00:25:26,140
You'd have the noise of drums and cymbals
470
00:25:26,140 --> 00:25:28,690
and the smell of incense and burnt meat
471
00:25:28,690 --> 00:25:30,920
and priests with their shaven heads
472
00:25:30,920 --> 00:25:33,490
and hairless bodies, abstaining from sex,
473
00:25:33,490 --> 00:25:37,573
so they were pure, rushing around to keep the gods on side.
474
00:25:38,462 --> 00:25:41,212
(dramatic music)
475
00:25:42,590 --> 00:25:45,170
I'm always blown away by this place.
476
00:25:45,170 --> 00:25:47,330
Everything about it is so intense
477
00:25:47,330 --> 00:25:49,733
and so much larger than life.
478
00:25:55,810 --> 00:25:56,970
When people come here,
479
00:25:56,970 --> 00:25:59,480
they always talk about its size and scale,
480
00:25:59,480 --> 00:26:01,800
and it was massive.
481
00:26:01,800 --> 00:26:03,160
So the whole complex stretched
482
00:26:03,160 --> 00:26:05,690
about a mile long and half a mile wide
483
00:26:05,690 --> 00:26:08,773
and covered the area of about 168 football pitches.
484
00:26:10,650 --> 00:26:12,950
But today I'm here to see something
485
00:26:12,950 --> 00:26:17,553
that's a lot smaller but, in its own way, as impressive.
486
00:26:20,320 --> 00:26:21,360
In ancient times,
487
00:26:21,360 --> 00:26:23,230
Karnak Temple would've been bursting
488
00:26:23,230 --> 00:26:26,210
with astronomers, mathematicians and scientists,
489
00:26:26,210 --> 00:26:29,113
all buzzing with new ideas and inventions.
490
00:26:30,820 --> 00:26:34,943
And one of those inventions was this humble looking bucket.
491
00:26:36,170 --> 00:26:38,280
For the priests, it was really important
492
00:26:38,280 --> 00:26:41,780
to perform their rituals at exactly the right time.
493
00:26:41,780 --> 00:26:43,810
And of course, during the day you've got the sun
494
00:26:43,810 --> 00:26:45,900
and you can use sundials to measure hours,
495
00:26:45,900 --> 00:26:47,780
but what do you do at night?
496
00:26:47,780 --> 00:26:49,570
Well, the ancient Egyptians came up
497
00:26:49,570 --> 00:26:51,950
with this really clever idea.
498
00:26:51,950 --> 00:26:54,850
So what this is is a replica of a water clock
499
00:26:54,850 --> 00:26:56,940
that was found here at Karnak.
500
00:26:56,940 --> 00:26:58,130
And what the priest would do is
501
00:26:58,130 --> 00:27:00,060
they'd fill it up with water.
502
00:27:00,060 --> 00:27:03,370
As the water dropped down one notch in the clock,
503
00:27:03,370 --> 00:27:04,730
that would measure an hour
504
00:27:04,730 --> 00:27:07,380
so they could tell the time exactly during the night.
505
00:27:08,870 --> 00:27:11,531
The Egyptians followed a 24 hour clock,
506
00:27:11,531 --> 00:27:14,763
12 hours of day and 12 hours of night.
507
00:27:16,060 --> 00:27:19,770
But the nights grow shorter and longer throughout the year
508
00:27:19,770 --> 00:27:22,320
and this water clock allowed for that
509
00:27:22,320 --> 00:27:25,050
with different measured scales inside
510
00:27:25,050 --> 00:27:26,650
for different times of the year.
511
00:27:29,390 --> 00:27:30,640
So let's see if it works.
512
00:27:32,871 --> 00:27:35,704
(water whooshing)
513
00:27:39,600 --> 00:27:40,570
I think they'd have done it
514
00:27:40,570 --> 00:27:42,870
slightly more professionally than me (laughs).
515
00:27:47,114 --> 00:27:48,953
It's definitely dripping.
516
00:27:51,500 --> 00:27:52,750
And I guess we have to wait an hour
517
00:27:52,750 --> 00:27:54,643
to see if it can tell the time okay.
518
00:27:57,070 --> 00:27:59,510
Simple but brilliant.
519
00:27:59,510 --> 00:28:02,960
And from 1500 BC, these devices would have appeared
520
00:28:02,960 --> 00:28:05,153
in temples up and down the Nile.
521
00:28:08,400 --> 00:28:11,170
Back on the Nile, there's a Luxor treasure
522
00:28:11,170 --> 00:28:12,973
from a very different age.
523
00:28:15,379 --> 00:28:18,412
I've just spotted this boat moored up on the bank.
524
00:28:18,412 --> 00:28:19,340
The SS Sudan.
525
00:28:19,340 --> 00:28:21,542
It was built in the 1920s
526
00:28:21,542 --> 00:28:25,163
and in 1933, it hosted a very special visitor.
527
00:28:26,240 --> 00:28:30,240
I'm gonna see if I can get onboard somehow.
528
00:28:30,240 --> 00:28:31,840
Hello?
529
00:28:31,840 --> 00:28:34,880
Hi, can I come on?
530
00:28:34,880 --> 00:28:36,430
Yeah but please can you come on the other side?
531
00:28:36,430 --> 00:28:38,071
From the other side?
532
00:28:38,071 --> 00:28:38,904
Please.
533
00:28:38,904 --> 00:28:40,116
Great, thank you.
534
00:28:40,116 --> 00:28:43,460
(mysterious jazzy music)
535
00:28:43,460 --> 00:28:45,120
Amazing, thank you very much.
536
00:28:47,779 --> 00:28:49,501
Thank you so much for letting me come on, Bettany.
537
00:28:49,501 --> 00:28:50,527
He is the work manager.
538
00:28:50,527 --> 00:28:52,260
So lovely, and is it okay...
539
00:28:52,260 --> 00:28:55,010
As I step onboard, the SS Sudan I'm following
540
00:28:55,010 --> 00:28:56,000
in the footsteps of one
541
00:28:56,000 --> 00:29:00,240
of the world's best-selling writers, Agatha Christie
542
00:29:04,190 --> 00:29:05,290
That's very kind.
543
00:29:05,290 --> 00:29:06,650
Thank you very much.
544
00:29:06,650 --> 00:29:09,050
Lovely, I've been on a hot boat.
545
00:29:09,050 --> 00:29:14,050
Just show me round 'cause I've seen this from outside.
546
00:29:14,091 --> 00:29:14,924
Oh great!
547
00:29:14,924 --> 00:29:18,603
Yes, this is the original steam machine.
548
00:29:19,510 --> 00:29:22,220
With which the boat was sailing Agatha Christie,
549
00:29:22,220 --> 00:29:23,800
she was onboard.
550
00:29:23,800 --> 00:29:25,590
It's not still powered by steam, is it?
551
00:29:25,590 --> 00:29:27,770
It's a steam and yes.
552
00:29:27,770 --> 00:29:30,131
And do people come onboard to travel here
553
00:29:30,131 --> 00:29:31,498
because of Agatha Christie?
554
00:29:31,498 --> 00:29:36,229
Sure, because of the oldest steamer ship on the Nile
555
00:29:36,229 --> 00:29:38,740
and sure because of Agatha Christie.
556
00:29:38,740 --> 00:29:39,573
Yes.
557
00:29:41,810 --> 00:29:45,430
Agatha Christie isn't just a giant of the literary world.
558
00:29:45,430 --> 00:29:47,840
She was a globe-trotting history buff
559
00:29:47,840 --> 00:29:50,980
who traveled the Middle East with her archeologist husband,
560
00:29:50,980 --> 00:29:53,793
excavating ancient sites in Iraq and Syria.
561
00:29:56,430 --> 00:29:59,570
In 1933, the couple's adventures brought them
562
00:29:59,570 --> 00:30:02,603
to Egypt and to the SS Sudan.
563
00:30:03,614 --> 00:30:06,720
So it's the Royal Lounge, yeah.
564
00:30:06,720 --> 00:30:08,420
Yeah, so it's got that kind
565
00:30:08,420 --> 00:30:10,590
of luxurious feel, hasn't it?
566
00:30:10,590 --> 00:30:13,740
I just love it 'cause I can so imagine Agatha
567
00:30:13,740 --> 00:30:15,860
and her husband sitting and reading and, you know,
568
00:30:15,860 --> 00:30:19,106
enjoying a cocktail or four in the evening.
569
00:30:19,106 --> 00:30:21,689
(bright music)
570
00:30:23,460 --> 00:30:26,820
Agatha was so inspired by her time on the SS Sudan
571
00:30:26,820 --> 00:30:28,220
that she wrote a book set
572
00:30:28,220 --> 00:30:30,903
on a paddle steamer sailing down the Nile.
573
00:30:32,710 --> 00:30:33,630
The result was one
574
00:30:33,630 --> 00:30:37,300
of the best-selling murder mysteries of all time.
575
00:30:37,300 --> 00:30:40,853
And what else did she call it but "Death on the Nile".
576
00:30:43,953 --> 00:30:44,786
You.
Me?
577
00:30:44,786 --> 00:30:45,827
Yeah.
578
00:30:45,827 --> 00:30:46,660
Okay, will you hold that?
579
00:30:46,660 --> 00:30:47,509
Please, with pleasure.
580
00:30:47,509 --> 00:30:48,575
Just give it a big tug?
581
00:30:48,575 --> 00:30:49,571
Exactly, three times.
582
00:30:49,571 --> 00:30:50,923
Okay, three times.
583
00:30:50,923 --> 00:30:53,340
(horn toots)
584
00:30:57,292 --> 00:30:58,292
Bye, thanks!
585
00:31:00,390 --> 00:31:02,923
It's full steam ahead for the SS Sudan.
586
00:31:06,380 --> 00:31:09,370
But for me, there's a humble water taxi waiting
587
00:31:11,630 --> 00:31:15,403
because I have one last trip to make to Luxor's West Bank.
588
00:31:16,970 --> 00:31:18,890
Perched at the foot of the hills,
589
00:31:18,890 --> 00:31:23,313
looking back across the Nile is an awe-inspiring monument.
590
00:31:28,630 --> 00:31:32,550
This stunning temple can be busy with tourists,
591
00:31:32,550 --> 00:31:34,950
but get here just after dawn
592
00:31:34,950 --> 00:31:37,003
and you can have the place to yourself.
593
00:31:41,340 --> 00:31:43,040
This was the crowning glory of one
594
00:31:43,040 --> 00:31:48,040
of my all time heroines, the female pharaoh, Hatshepsut.
595
00:31:50,140 --> 00:31:53,500
A remarkable ruler and, brilliantly,
596
00:31:53,500 --> 00:31:56,403
a woman ruling in a man's world.
597
00:31:57,750 --> 00:32:00,520
So here's lovely Hatshepsut.
598
00:32:00,520 --> 00:32:02,610
Now the thing is, of course, at first glance,
599
00:32:02,610 --> 00:32:05,110
she looks like any other male pharaoh.
600
00:32:05,110 --> 00:32:06,870
She's got her king's skirts
601
00:32:06,870 --> 00:32:09,410
and even a little Pharaonic beard.
602
00:32:09,410 --> 00:32:11,640
But we knew this is definitely Hatshepsut
603
00:32:11,640 --> 00:32:15,350
because that's her name in that cartouche up there.
604
00:32:15,350 --> 00:32:19,380
Isn't it fascinating that despite all her progress
605
00:32:19,380 --> 00:32:22,500
and pioneering ideas and power,
606
00:32:22,500 --> 00:32:26,700
this amazingly potent female pharaoh had
607
00:32:26,700 --> 00:32:29,825
to be represented as a man.
608
00:32:29,825 --> 00:32:33,330
(dramatic music)
609
00:32:33,330 --> 00:32:36,920
In Ancient Egypt, men inherited the throne.
610
00:32:36,920 --> 00:32:39,543
In fact, there wasn't even a word for queen.
611
00:32:42,120 --> 00:32:45,010
So when Hatshepsut found herself in charge,
612
00:32:45,010 --> 00:32:47,240
after her husband's early death,
613
00:32:47,240 --> 00:32:49,930
she realized the only way to rule Egypt was
614
00:32:49,930 --> 00:32:52,053
to be better than any king.
615
00:32:54,150 --> 00:32:57,810
You get the sense that she wanted to outdo any man.
616
00:32:57,810 --> 00:32:58,850
This temple, for example,
617
00:32:58,850 --> 00:33:01,920
was unlike anything that Egypt had ever seen before.
618
00:33:01,920 --> 00:33:05,210
Its design was brief progressive and internationalist,
619
00:33:05,210 --> 00:33:08,870
and this whole complex would've looked completely different.
620
00:33:08,870 --> 00:33:10,620
It would've been a riot of color.
621
00:33:10,620 --> 00:33:14,670
There were ponds and lines of incense trees.
622
00:33:14,670 --> 00:33:16,650
It's almost as if Hatshepsut was trying
623
00:33:16,650 --> 00:33:20,233
to seduce her people with her sophistication.
624
00:33:23,290 --> 00:33:26,643
The temple walls tell us more about this intriguing woman.
625
00:33:28,090 --> 00:33:30,720
She sent delegations out across the seas
626
00:33:30,720 --> 00:33:34,020
to get incense and ivory and gold
627
00:33:34,020 --> 00:33:37,423
from places other Egyptian rulers hadn't managed to reach.
628
00:33:40,040 --> 00:33:42,010
And the point of all of this wasn't to prove
629
00:33:42,010 --> 00:33:43,660
what the Egyptians traded in
630
00:33:43,660 --> 00:33:46,483
but that Hatshepsut could make it happen.
631
00:33:50,700 --> 00:33:54,830
Archeologist Dr. Spignier Shafransky has arranged
632
00:33:54,830 --> 00:33:56,370
for me to see a part of the temple
633
00:33:56,370 --> 00:33:58,530
that's usually off limits.
634
00:33:58,530 --> 00:34:00,670
And that gives us intimate insight
635
00:34:00,670 --> 00:34:02,700
to this remarkable woman's life.
636
00:34:02,700 --> 00:34:05,510
That goes way beyond the official line.
637
00:34:05,510 --> 00:34:08,950
Hatshepsut was volcano of ideas
638
00:34:08,950 --> 00:34:13,730
in political, military and religious fields.
639
00:34:13,730 --> 00:34:16,310
She was really brilliant, I may say.
640
00:34:16,310 --> 00:34:18,230
So do you think she is one of the reasons
641
00:34:18,230 --> 00:34:21,350
that Ancient Egyptian civilization became so great?
642
00:34:21,350 --> 00:34:22,300
Yes, yes.
643
00:34:22,300 --> 00:34:25,430
We know a lot about Cleopatra for example,
644
00:34:25,430 --> 00:34:27,220
but in my opinion,
645
00:34:27,220 --> 00:34:29,630
Hatshepsut was really more clever.
646
00:34:29,630 --> 00:34:33,010
She was one of the greatest person
647
00:34:33,010 --> 00:34:35,330
in history of the world at the time.
648
00:34:35,330 --> 00:34:37,380
(dramatic music)
649
00:34:37,380 --> 00:34:40,150
But Hatshepsut had a secret.
650
00:34:40,150 --> 00:34:42,310
It seems she had a bit of a soft spot
651
00:34:42,310 --> 00:34:44,370
for one of her courtiers.
652
00:34:44,370 --> 00:34:47,070
He seems to be a present everywhere.
653
00:34:47,070 --> 00:34:48,300
Yes, yes.
654
00:34:48,300 --> 00:34:51,240
So can you show me where he is here?
655
00:34:51,240 --> 00:34:52,740
Look, he's.
656
00:34:52,740 --> 00:34:53,573
Yes!
657
00:34:54,430 --> 00:34:56,023
This is Senenmut.
658
00:34:56,960 --> 00:34:59,230
Not a member of the Royal family
659
00:34:59,230 --> 00:35:01,780
and yet beautifully depicted all over
660
00:35:01,780 --> 00:35:03,920
the queen of Egypt's temple.
661
00:35:03,920 --> 00:35:05,047
'Cause he's just a commoner
662
00:35:05,047 --> 00:35:07,600
and they don't normally get represented in a place
663
00:35:07,600 --> 00:35:08,920
as sacred as this.
664
00:35:08,920 --> 00:35:11,103
That says something about him.
Yes. Yes.
665
00:35:11,940 --> 00:35:15,557
He was a very gifted person, a very talented person.
666
00:35:17,520 --> 00:35:20,350
Senenmut oversaw the temple's construction
667
00:35:20,350 --> 00:35:23,370
and tutored Hatshepsut's daughter.
668
00:35:23,370 --> 00:35:24,210
It's long believed
669
00:35:24,210 --> 00:35:27,400
that his talents captured the queen's attention.
670
00:35:27,400 --> 00:35:29,739
And perhaps even her heart.
671
00:35:29,739 --> 00:35:31,140
Presumably 'cause if the niches
672
00:35:31,140 --> 00:35:32,780
were always closed with doors,
673
00:35:32,780 --> 00:35:35,450
so that image would've been hidden, wouldn't it?
674
00:35:35,450 --> 00:35:36,356
Yes, yes.
675
00:35:36,356 --> 00:35:41,070
The door of the niche was open inside.
676
00:35:41,070 --> 00:35:45,953
So nobody knew about his presence inside the whole place.
677
00:35:47,380 --> 00:35:49,980
By hiding him behind closed doors,
678
00:35:49,980 --> 00:35:52,530
maybe Hatshepsut was trying to keep her relationship
679
00:35:52,530 --> 00:35:54,093
with Senenmut under wraps.
680
00:35:56,660 --> 00:35:59,750
But as the most famous woman in Egypt at the time,
681
00:35:59,750 --> 00:36:01,390
can't have been easy keeping a lid
682
00:36:01,390 --> 00:36:03,483
on juicy bit of gossip like this.
683
00:36:08,800 --> 00:36:10,190
I've heard there's more evidence
684
00:36:10,190 --> 00:36:12,793
of this scandal up in the hills, above the temple.
685
00:36:17,720 --> 00:36:19,963
It's pretty perilous to access,
686
00:36:22,860 --> 00:36:24,680
but archeologists think
687
00:36:24,680 --> 00:36:27,580
this is where the temple builders took their breaks,
688
00:36:27,580 --> 00:36:29,740
sheltering from the sun and catching up
689
00:36:29,740 --> 00:36:31,940
on all the latest news.
690
00:36:31,940 --> 00:36:36,940
I hope this is worth that scramble up the hill in a skirt.
691
00:36:37,280 --> 00:36:38,283
Oh my gosh.
692
00:36:43,380 --> 00:36:44,213
This is it.
693
00:36:44,213 --> 00:36:46,150
Oh, that is amazing.
694
00:36:46,150 --> 00:36:49,620
So this little scribble on the wall here is close
695
00:36:49,620 --> 00:36:53,160
on three and a half thousand years old.
696
00:36:53,160 --> 00:36:57,610
Now, obviously it shows a man having sex with a woman,
697
00:36:57,610 --> 00:37:00,970
but there's something really special to notice here.
698
00:37:00,970 --> 00:37:03,310
The woman has got this thick royal wig on,
699
00:37:03,310 --> 00:37:07,250
so it's probably showing the queen or Hatshepsut herself.
700
00:37:07,250 --> 00:37:09,601
So there are two possibilities here.
701
00:37:09,601 --> 00:37:11,560
Either this is feeding off a rumor
702
00:37:11,560 --> 00:37:14,820
that Senenmut and Hatshepsut were actually lovers,
703
00:37:14,820 --> 00:37:19,690
or it's just a guy having sex with Hatshepsut herself.
704
00:37:19,690 --> 00:37:21,697
And this comes from a time where there was a woman
705
00:37:21,697 --> 00:37:25,280
who was the most powerful female on earth,
706
00:37:25,280 --> 00:37:27,110
doing amazing things.
707
00:37:27,110 --> 00:37:30,490
And the guys sitting here in this little cave wanted
708
00:37:30,490 --> 00:37:32,023
to remember her like this.
709
00:37:33,120 --> 00:37:34,530
Three and a half thousand years on,
710
00:37:34,530 --> 00:37:37,398
sometimes it feels like very little has changed.
711
00:37:37,398 --> 00:37:40,148
(dramatic music)
712
00:37:45,040 --> 00:37:47,623
After two busy days and nights in and around Luxor,
713
00:37:49,690 --> 00:37:52,023
and some well-earned shore leave for the crew.
714
00:37:53,100 --> 00:37:56,350
It's time to set sail and continue my journey.
715
00:38:05,900 --> 00:38:07,580
Sadly I've gotta leave Luxor
716
00:38:07,580 --> 00:38:09,890
but there are lots of discoveries
717
00:38:09,890 --> 00:38:11,733
and delights still to come.
718
00:38:14,490 --> 00:38:19,273
I'm heading for Egypt's more remote and enthralling south.
719
00:38:25,040 --> 00:38:27,630
I'm leaving the hustle and bustle of Luxor
720
00:38:27,630 --> 00:38:31,363
to travel deep into Egypt's beautiful south.
721
00:38:33,470 --> 00:38:37,783
It's much quieter here, but we're not entirely alone.
722
00:38:39,269 --> 00:38:42,102
(people cheering)
723
00:38:43,013 --> 00:38:44,670
So surreal, so random.
724
00:38:46,223 --> 00:38:47,580
Wow.
725
00:38:47,580 --> 00:38:52,000
Another dahabeah and flying a Union flag too.
726
00:38:52,000 --> 00:38:53,360
If these are Brits,
727
00:38:53,360 --> 00:38:55,030
they're continuing the grand tradition
728
00:38:55,030 --> 00:38:58,377
of sailing down the Nile that started centuries ago.
729
00:39:02,270 --> 00:39:04,680
I love the fact, the crew, they all know each other
730
00:39:04,680 --> 00:39:07,640
so they have a bit of information exchange, they go...
731
00:39:07,640 --> 00:39:10,223
(men shouting)
732
00:39:13,477 --> 00:39:15,380
And just along the bank,
733
00:39:15,380 --> 00:39:18,100
there's something else I am determined
734
00:39:18,100 --> 00:39:20,440
to pay my respects to.
735
00:39:20,440 --> 00:39:22,460
It's not a template or a tomb,
736
00:39:22,460 --> 00:39:25,783
but I think it's the unsung hero of Ancient Egypt.
737
00:39:27,980 --> 00:39:29,143
The humble donkey.
738
00:39:31,198 --> 00:39:34,030
This lovely guy who was working his fields a moment ago
739
00:39:34,030 --> 00:39:37,173
and he's now bringing us his donkey, I think.
740
00:39:38,600 --> 00:39:41,923
Oh my gosh, we're being offered a cow as well.
741
00:39:47,490 --> 00:39:48,590
Thanks, Aslam, thanks.
742
00:39:49,500 --> 00:39:50,860
Thank you very much.
743
00:39:50,860 --> 00:39:51,738
Thank you.
744
00:39:51,738 --> 00:39:52,760
Hello.
745
00:39:52,760 --> 00:39:54,260
Hello, morning.
746
00:39:54,260 --> 00:39:55,573
Nice to see you.
747
00:39:56,581 --> 00:39:57,414
Hi.
Good morning, hi.
748
00:39:57,414 --> 00:40:00,563
Hello, oh, you're beautiful.
749
00:40:01,750 --> 00:40:03,530
Is it a girl or a boy?
750
00:40:03,530 --> 00:40:04,430
It's a donkey.
751
00:40:04,430 --> 00:40:07,360
It's a donkey, yeah, I know it's a donkey.
752
00:40:07,360 --> 00:40:08,463
Oh, he's lovely.
753
00:40:08,463 --> 00:40:09,296
Lovely.
754
00:40:09,296 --> 00:40:10,590
Really lovely.
755
00:40:10,590 --> 00:40:12,123
Very beautiful donkey.
756
00:40:13,530 --> 00:40:15,120
He might look sweet,
757
00:40:15,120 --> 00:40:17,860
but he's actually as tough as old boots.
758
00:40:17,860 --> 00:40:20,640
Donkeys can pull up to twice their body weight
759
00:40:20,640 --> 00:40:22,090
and even in these temperatures,
760
00:40:22,090 --> 00:40:26,640
they can go without water for an astonishing three days.
761
00:40:26,640 --> 00:40:28,500
But apparently he loves swimming.
762
00:40:28,500 --> 00:40:30,900
So we're gonna go for a little dip (screams)
763
00:40:30,900 --> 00:40:32,350
in the Nile instead (laughs).
764
00:40:33,944 --> 00:40:36,527
(upbeat music)
765
00:40:37,790 --> 00:40:39,080
Hello lovely one.
766
00:40:40,037 --> 00:40:41,703
Oh, is that nice, yeah.
767
00:40:44,310 --> 00:40:49,280
So at the end of every night as you go down the Nile,
768
00:40:49,280 --> 00:40:51,400
you see people bringing the donkeys and their horses in
769
00:40:51,400 --> 00:40:54,220
to give them a cooling bath.
770
00:40:54,220 --> 00:40:57,270
It's just such a lovely sight and totally timeless.
771
00:40:57,270 --> 00:40:59,750
They definitely did this in Ancient Egypt too.
772
00:40:59,750 --> 00:41:00,950
We'd got pictures of it.
773
00:41:04,010 --> 00:41:06,530
And they deserved a bath.
774
00:41:06,530 --> 00:41:10,160
It was donkeys that did huge amounts of hard work,
775
00:41:10,160 --> 00:41:13,100
in fields and on building sites.
776
00:41:13,100 --> 00:41:14,960
It's a bizarre thought.
777
00:41:14,960 --> 00:41:16,830
None of the pyramids, the temples,
778
00:41:16,830 --> 00:41:18,620
the tombs I've seen in my journey
779
00:41:18,620 --> 00:41:22,800
would've existed if it hadn't been for these gentle beasts.
780
00:41:22,800 --> 00:41:24,380
So although this might seem slightly odd,
781
00:41:24,380 --> 00:41:26,908
it is in fact completely appropriate
782
00:41:26,908 --> 00:41:29,270
that we're treating this random donkey
783
00:41:29,270 --> 00:41:31,230
a bit like a pharaoh
784
00:41:31,230 --> 00:41:33,500
and giving him his own personal bath
785
00:41:33,500 --> 00:41:34,500
in the waters of the Nile
786
00:41:34,500 --> 00:41:37,492
because, after all, it was the donkey
787
00:41:37,492 --> 00:41:41,480
that built the great civilization of Ancient Egypt.
788
00:41:41,480 --> 00:41:42,380
Thank you.
789
00:41:42,380 --> 00:41:43,213
Thank you.
790
00:41:44,195 --> 00:41:46,570
Oh, very wet shoes.
791
00:41:46,570 --> 00:41:47,403
Oh my God.
792
00:41:47,403 --> 00:41:48,480
My shoes are too wet.
793
00:41:48,480 --> 00:41:49,467
Oh my God (laughs).
794
00:41:50,643 --> 00:41:53,393
(dramatic music)
795
00:42:08,103 --> 00:42:08,936
We're now 35 miles upstream of Luxor
796
00:42:11,180 --> 00:42:13,710
and the captain's just told us that we've gotta slow down
797
00:42:13,710 --> 00:42:15,943
because we're approaching the Esna Barrage.
798
00:42:19,820 --> 00:42:22,890
This is one of six dams along the Nile in Egypt,
799
00:42:22,890 --> 00:42:24,880
used to control the annual floods,
800
00:42:24,880 --> 00:42:27,433
and, in some cases, to generate electricity.
801
00:42:30,560 --> 00:42:32,740
The Ancient Egyptians also built dams
802
00:42:32,740 --> 00:42:34,789
and locks so that they could regulate the flow
803
00:42:34,789 --> 00:42:35,950
of the Nile too.
804
00:42:35,950 --> 00:42:39,320
So it's a kind of 20th century equivalent
805
00:42:39,320 --> 00:42:40,863
of a very ancient practice.
806
00:42:42,170 --> 00:42:44,330
And it makes our sailors very unhappy
807
00:42:44,330 --> 00:42:46,810
because they say they get rather claustrophobic
808
00:42:46,810 --> 00:42:48,450
when they go inside.
809
00:42:48,450 --> 00:42:49,283
Okay?
810
00:42:52,810 --> 00:42:55,950
All the traffic on the Nile here has to go through one lock.
811
00:42:55,950 --> 00:42:57,863
That's not much wider than our boat.
812
00:43:02,667 --> 00:43:05,440
But the dam is the gateway to the south.
813
00:43:08,100 --> 00:43:10,940
Behind me lie the familiar sights of Ancient Egypt
814
00:43:12,110 --> 00:43:14,780
and ahead lies the lesser known
815
00:43:14,780 --> 00:43:16,960
and even more intriguing south
816
00:43:17,990 --> 00:43:20,240
but getting there is proving a tight squeeze.
817
00:43:21,747 --> 00:43:25,664
(shouting in foreign language)
818
00:43:36,490 --> 00:43:38,210
It was slightly more tense
819
00:43:38,210 --> 00:43:39,810
than I thought it was gonna be
820
00:43:39,810 --> 00:43:41,760
because we got a lot closer to the sides
821
00:43:41,760 --> 00:43:44,470
and there was a kind of frenetic rope action.
822
00:43:44,470 --> 00:43:46,870
But the boys did amazingly and we are through safely
823
00:43:46,870 --> 00:43:50,293
and now we are continuing our journey south.
824
00:43:53,031 --> 00:43:54,350
Hello, good luck!
825
00:43:54,350 --> 00:43:55,333
Next time,
826
00:43:57,210 --> 00:43:59,885
I sail into the beautiful city of Aswan.
827
00:43:59,885 --> 00:44:02,110
Now that is how I like my views.
828
00:44:02,110 --> 00:44:04,090
I'll join the crowds and the rising sun
829
00:44:04,090 --> 00:44:06,003
for some Ancient Egyptian magic.
830
00:44:07,650 --> 00:44:09,400
And as my Nile journey ends,
831
00:44:09,400 --> 00:44:13,030
I discover a 3000-year-old message from a pharaoh.
832
00:44:13,030 --> 00:44:14,810
Amazing and it's just all appearing right
833
00:44:14,810 --> 00:44:16,524
in front of our eyes.
834
00:44:16,524 --> 00:44:19,274
(dramatic music)
62327
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