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I think to just have little
bites out of the fashion world
4
00:00:26,694 --> 00:00:29,663
is a sort of
a starvation diet myself.
5
00:00:29,763 --> 00:00:33,401
I would rather keep right out
and eat ice cream cake all day,
6
00:00:33,501 --> 00:00:35,669
look terrible and feel fine,
7
00:00:35,769 --> 00:00:37,738
or I would like to be
bang in it
8
00:00:37,838 --> 00:00:39,740
as I have been
for so many years.
9
00:00:39,840 --> 00:00:41,375
*
10
00:00:59,593 --> 00:01:03,797
When we think about an iconic
person in a magazine, an editor,
11
00:01:03,897 --> 00:01:05,466
we always say Diana Vreeland.
12
00:01:05,566 --> 00:01:07,268
*
13
00:01:12,840 --> 00:01:16,144
Diana was just so far ahead in
terms of seeing fashion
14
00:01:16,244 --> 00:01:17,311
as an art form,
15
00:01:17,411 --> 00:01:19,280
seeing photography
as an art form.
16
00:01:25,153 --> 00:01:27,421
When people call her
the Empress Vreeland,
17
00:01:27,521 --> 00:01:29,123
it's not by hazard
18
00:01:29,223 --> 00:01:31,292
because she did have this
incredible kind of
19
00:01:31,392 --> 00:01:33,093
auteur and grandeur to her.
20
00:01:35,563 --> 00:01:38,366
She was upside-down
original.
21
00:01:38,466 --> 00:01:41,335
*
22
00:01:43,537 --> 00:01:45,806
She was never a very rich woman.
23
00:01:45,906 --> 00:01:47,808
She was never
a very beautiful woman,
24
00:01:47,908 --> 00:01:50,578
but she created beauty
and she created wealth.
25
00:01:58,252 --> 00:01:59,887
Come on,
for heaven's sakes !
26
00:01:59,987 --> 00:02:02,290
Let's get that movie going !
27
00:02:02,390 --> 00:02:03,657
*
28
00:02:29,717 --> 00:02:31,552
( Diana )
I loathe nostalgia.
29
00:02:31,652 --> 00:02:33,587
I don't believe in anything
before penicillin.
30
00:02:34,855 --> 00:02:37,258
( George )
I can imagine.
31
00:02:37,358 --> 00:02:40,261
How would you like to tell
the story of your life then ?
32
00:02:40,361 --> 00:02:42,530
It's got to have
some bite.
33
00:02:42,630 --> 00:02:44,765
It's all your voice,
Diana, it's all you.
34
00:02:44,865 --> 00:02:45,933
I'm not doing anything.
35
00:02:46,033 --> 00:02:48,436
All I'm doing
is editing.
36
00:02:48,536 --> 00:02:50,404
Don't give me that.
37
00:02:50,504 --> 00:02:52,540
I was an editor
for 40 years.
38
00:02:52,640 --> 00:02:54,475
I know who's boss.
39
00:02:54,575 --> 00:02:58,646
I don't give a damn what's
in it, as long as it sells.
40
00:02:58,746 --> 00:03:01,882
Listen, I'm as practical
as Bloomingdale's.
41
00:03:01,982 --> 00:03:03,584
All right then, Diana.
42
00:03:03,684 --> 00:03:05,686
Of course, we are going to
talk about your years at
43
00:03:05,786 --> 00:03:08,422
"Harper's Bazaar"
and at "Vogue,"
44
00:03:08,522 --> 00:03:11,559
but first I think we should
start with your childhood.
45
00:03:11,659 --> 00:03:14,928
How does one
become Diana Vreeland ?
46
00:03:15,028 --> 00:03:17,698
I certainly didn't learn
anything in school.
47
00:03:17,798 --> 00:03:20,434
My education
was the world.
48
00:03:20,534 --> 00:03:22,303
Where do I begin ?
49
00:03:26,307 --> 00:03:27,975
The first thing to do,
my love,
50
00:03:28,075 --> 00:03:31,645
is arrange
to be born in Paris.
51
00:03:31,745 --> 00:03:35,849
After that, everything
follows quite naturally.
52
00:03:35,949 --> 00:03:38,552
*
53
00:03:41,822 --> 00:03:45,759
I was brought up
in a world of great beauties,
54
00:03:45,859 --> 00:03:49,563
a world where lookers had
something to give the world.
55
00:03:49,663 --> 00:03:52,566
Paris was the center of
everything !
56
00:03:52,666 --> 00:03:55,336
I saw the whole beginning
of our century there.
57
00:03:55,436 --> 00:03:57,471
It was the Belle Époque.
58
00:03:57,571 --> 00:03:58,906
It was a great moment.
59
00:03:59,006 --> 00:04:00,608
Great, great !
60
00:04:00,708 --> 00:04:03,377
Of course, I was always
mad about the Ballet Russe,
61
00:04:03,477 --> 00:04:06,714
mad about it.
62
00:04:06,814 --> 00:04:08,982
Diaghilev and his dancers.
63
00:04:09,082 --> 00:04:11,319
Was he a friend
of your parents ?
64
00:04:11,419 --> 00:04:12,353
Diaghilev ?
65
00:04:12,453 --> 00:04:13,787
Of course.
66
00:04:13,887 --> 00:04:18,492
I remember him and Nijinsky
coming over all the time.
67
00:04:18,592 --> 00:04:20,328
What an enviable
and wonderful childhood.
68
00:04:20,428 --> 00:04:22,930
Did you realize at the time
that you were lucky ?
69
00:04:23,030 --> 00:04:24,432
Oh, yes.
70
00:04:24,532 --> 00:04:25,599
Oh, yes.
71
00:04:25,699 --> 00:04:28,268
We adored them,
they were so exciting.
72
00:04:28,369 --> 00:04:30,871
Everyone who came in the house
was exciting.
73
00:04:30,971 --> 00:04:34,808
( Diana )
A great deal of my upbringing
was in all those evenings
74
00:04:34,908 --> 00:04:37,878
when I saw a lot of fun.
75
00:04:37,978 --> 00:04:39,313
( Diana )
I've always sort of been in
76
00:04:39,413 --> 00:04:42,383
a theatrical ambience,
so to speak.
77
00:04:42,483 --> 00:04:44,785
I mean, I'm using
Paris as sort of a theatre
78
00:04:44,885 --> 00:04:48,689
for certain things for a woman,
you know ?
79
00:04:48,789 --> 00:04:51,659
My parents thought of
the most wonderful things
80
00:04:51,759 --> 00:04:54,495
for my sister and me to see.
81
00:04:54,595 --> 00:04:58,932
They sent us to London once
and we sat in the bleachers
82
00:04:59,032 --> 00:05:04,638
and watched the coronation of
King George V !
83
00:05:04,738 --> 00:05:06,407
It was marvelous.
84
00:05:06,507 --> 00:05:10,644
The elephants, the horses,
the regalia, the trappings.
85
00:05:10,744 --> 00:05:12,946
Oh, it was gorgeous.
86
00:05:13,046 --> 00:05:16,350
Horses were perfectly natural
in those days.
87
00:05:16,450 --> 00:05:17,651
Is there someone
who personifies
88
00:05:17,751 --> 00:05:20,020
your idea of
great style ?
89
00:05:22,990 --> 00:05:26,059
When you see
a race horse being led out,
90
00:05:26,159 --> 00:05:29,630
I think they've got something,
hmm, that no one else has.
91
00:05:29,730 --> 00:05:31,465
Race horse.
92
00:05:31,565 --> 00:05:33,534
Why do you use the race horse
as a metaphor for style ?
93
00:05:33,634 --> 00:05:36,737
Because the race horse
has a little extra.
94
00:05:36,837 --> 00:05:39,106
A little extra pizzazz.
95
00:05:39,206 --> 00:05:41,942
As children during our summers
in the Rocky Mountains,
96
00:05:42,042 --> 00:05:45,579
we were brought up on horses.
97
00:05:45,679 --> 00:05:48,582
I did, of course, ride a lot
with Buffalo Bill.
98
00:05:48,682 --> 00:05:50,584
And I loved him,
99
00:05:50,684 --> 00:05:52,420
he was very sweet,
sweet to my sister and myself.
100
00:05:54,054 --> 00:05:56,457
He was essentially a cowboy,
you see.
101
00:05:56,557 --> 00:05:59,860
That was his sort of
dazed experience in life,
102
00:05:59,960 --> 00:06:02,730
this languid, plunging,
wonderful,
103
00:06:02,830 --> 00:06:04,998
marvelous-looking man, you know.
104
00:06:05,098 --> 00:06:07,134
We thought
he was beautiful.
105
00:06:07,234 --> 00:06:09,637
And what did you think
you wanted to be ?
106
00:06:09,737 --> 00:06:12,606
Or were you
just out to experience ?
107
00:06:12,706 --> 00:06:14,608
I never wanted to be in
the Rocky Mountains again,
108
00:06:14,708 --> 00:06:16,143
that was sure.
109
00:06:16,243 --> 00:06:19,112
I knew that it was about
the loneliest place in town.
110
00:06:19,212 --> 00:06:21,649
I wanted to get where
the action was.
111
00:06:21,749 --> 00:06:26,654
When did you first have a sense
of how you wanted to look ?
112
00:06:29,623 --> 00:06:33,093
Um... first time today
or first time, when ?
113
00:06:33,193 --> 00:06:35,596
In your life.
114
00:06:35,696 --> 00:06:38,398
Were you always pleased
by the way you look ?
115
00:06:38,499 --> 00:06:39,833
Good God, no.
116
00:06:39,933 --> 00:06:41,635
I should say not.
117
00:06:41,735 --> 00:06:44,538
I mean, you can't go around
like a smug mademoiselle
118
00:06:44,638 --> 00:06:46,640
from about seven years up.
119
00:06:46,740 --> 00:06:49,643
Uh-uh.
120
00:06:49,743 --> 00:06:53,481
( George )
Diana, could I ask you some
rather personal questions ?
121
00:06:53,581 --> 00:06:54,948
( Diana )
Mm-hmm.
122
00:06:55,048 --> 00:06:57,885
Your mother,
tell me about her.
123
00:06:57,985 --> 00:07:00,921
I admired the fact that
she was very good-looking.
124
00:07:01,021 --> 00:07:03,724
Yes, but how did
you get along ?
125
00:07:03,824 --> 00:07:06,193
We were not sympathetic.
126
00:07:06,293 --> 00:07:08,095
Very few daughters
and mothers are.
127
00:07:08,195 --> 00:07:09,797
Yes.
128
00:07:09,897 --> 00:07:12,766
She used to say, "It's too
bad that you have such
129
00:07:12,866 --> 00:07:15,202
a beautiful sister and that
you're so extremely ugly."
130
00:07:18,005 --> 00:07:23,877
So much of her character was
formed when, as a little girl,
131
00:07:23,977 --> 00:07:28,982
her mother treated her
as her ugly duckling.
132
00:07:29,082 --> 00:07:32,219
I was always
her ugly little monster.
133
00:07:32,319 --> 00:07:33,854
Well, how-- how did that
make you feel ?
134
00:07:33,954 --> 00:07:38,692
Now, George, I don't think
we want to go there.
135
00:07:38,792 --> 00:07:41,895
Let's just say
Mom was a wild woman.
136
00:07:41,995 --> 00:07:44,231
You know, she used to
hunt rhinos.
137
00:07:44,331 --> 00:07:46,900
And, your father, was he
an adventurer as well ?
138
00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:48,135
Oh, no.
139
00:07:48,235 --> 00:07:49,637
Daddy was an Englishman.
140
00:07:49,737 --> 00:07:53,240
He raised us to be British
in a healthy way.
141
00:07:53,340 --> 00:07:55,776
That's the kind of
family we were.
142
00:07:55,876 --> 00:07:58,045
Very little
visible emotion.
143
00:08:00,548 --> 00:08:02,583
( Diana )
We were also gypsies.
144
00:08:02,683 --> 00:08:05,919
We finally settled in New York
when I was about ten.
145
00:08:06,019 --> 00:08:07,721
I was ready to hit the streets,
146
00:08:07,821 --> 00:08:10,991
but my parents insisted
I go to school.
147
00:08:11,091 --> 00:08:13,894
So, they enrolled me at
Brearley.
148
00:08:13,994 --> 00:08:17,030
I lasted three weeks
at the Brearley School.
149
00:08:17,130 --> 00:08:19,199
No, three months, months.
150
00:08:19,299 --> 00:08:21,001
And really
they kept me there
151
00:08:21,101 --> 00:08:23,170
out of sort of kindness
to my parents,
152
00:08:23,270 --> 00:08:24,872
who obviously
didn't know what to do with me
153
00:08:24,972 --> 00:08:26,574
because I didn't know any
English.
154
00:08:26,674 --> 00:08:28,909
I never had time
to learn English.
155
00:08:29,009 --> 00:08:30,711
I wasn't allowed to speak
French,
156
00:08:30,811 --> 00:08:32,746
and I had no one to talk to.
157
00:08:32,846 --> 00:08:34,582
And I started to stutter
and the whole thing
158
00:08:34,682 --> 00:08:36,950
became really a very serious--
159
00:08:37,050 --> 00:08:40,120
And stuttering
is quite a serious thing.
160
00:08:40,220 --> 00:08:43,857
And then one day I went to
a Russian school
161
00:08:43,957 --> 00:08:45,559
and then I was happy.
162
00:08:45,659 --> 00:08:49,196
It was the only school I was
ever happy in
163
00:08:49,296 --> 00:08:50,764
because all
I did was dance.
164
00:08:50,864 --> 00:08:52,566
And it was a great education.
165
00:08:52,666 --> 00:08:55,669
*
166
00:08:55,769 --> 00:09:00,841
I realized if I was going to
make it, I must stand out.
167
00:09:00,941 --> 00:09:04,111
My last name
was Dalziel.
168
00:09:04,211 --> 00:09:09,216
D-A-L-Z-I-E-L.
169
00:09:09,316 --> 00:09:11,551
Gaelic for 'I dare.'
170
00:09:13,086 --> 00:09:14,622
There's only one
very good life
171
00:09:14,722 --> 00:09:16,156
and that's the life
that you know you want
172
00:09:16,256 --> 00:09:18,792
and you make it yourself.
173
00:09:18,892 --> 00:09:20,594
I think when you're young,
174
00:09:20,694 --> 00:09:22,863
you should be a lot with
yourself and your sufferings.
175
00:09:25,332 --> 00:09:28,802
Then one day you
get out where the sun shines
176
00:09:28,902 --> 00:09:31,939
and the rain rains
and the snow snows,
177
00:09:32,039 --> 00:09:34,207
and it all comes together.
178
00:09:34,307 --> 00:09:36,143
It came together for me
in New York
179
00:09:36,243 --> 00:09:39,212
during the Roaring '20s.
180
00:09:39,312 --> 00:09:41,982
I was going to
make myself
181
00:09:42,082 --> 00:09:44,117
the most popular girl
in the world.
182
00:09:44,217 --> 00:09:46,319
The Roaring '20s,
that was great.
183
00:09:46,419 --> 00:09:49,022
The dancing,
the music, the artists.
184
00:09:49,122 --> 00:09:51,224
The world was alive with
everything new.
185
00:09:51,324 --> 00:09:54,594
It was the start of
the 20th century, actually.
186
00:09:54,695 --> 00:09:56,063
*
187
00:09:59,399 --> 00:10:01,034
What were you like
in your teens ?
188
00:10:01,134 --> 00:10:03,937
When the rest of us were
going around gawky and...
189
00:10:04,037 --> 00:10:05,138
I was dancing.
190
00:10:05,238 --> 00:10:07,875
That's all
I cared about.
191
00:10:07,975 --> 00:10:11,912
By the time I was 17,
I knew what a snob was.
192
00:10:13,881 --> 00:10:17,150
I also knew that young snobs
didn't quite get my number.
193
00:10:19,853 --> 00:10:23,123
I was much better with
Mexican and Argentine gigolos,
194
00:10:23,223 --> 00:10:27,828
the odd ducks around town who
liked to dance as much as I did.
195
00:10:30,297 --> 00:10:33,166
Naturally, I was
considered a bit fast.
196
00:10:33,266 --> 00:10:35,235
The story got out.
197
00:10:35,335 --> 00:10:37,404
But I didn't care
what anyone else said.
198
00:10:37,504 --> 00:10:41,374
I was never out of Harlem
in those days.
199
00:10:41,474 --> 00:10:43,143
The music was so great,
200
00:10:43,243 --> 00:10:46,246
and Josephine Baker was simply
the only girl you saw
201
00:10:46,346 --> 00:10:47,881
in the chorus line.
202
00:10:47,981 --> 00:10:51,719
All you could feel was
something good coming from her.
203
00:10:51,819 --> 00:10:55,222
She had that--
that thing--
204
00:10:55,322 --> 00:10:58,425
that pizzazz.
205
00:10:58,525 --> 00:11:00,961
My mother didn't
approve of my behavior,
206
00:11:01,061 --> 00:11:04,031
but she had her own flirtations,
so to speak.
207
00:11:04,131 --> 00:11:06,166
She'd even flirt
with my boyfriends,
208
00:11:06,266 --> 00:11:09,369
and occasionally,
one would fall flat for her.
209
00:11:13,073 --> 00:11:15,242
I never felt comfortable
about my looks...
210
00:11:17,778 --> 00:11:20,680
... until I met Reed Vreeland.
211
00:11:20,781 --> 00:11:23,984
He was the most beautiful man
I'd ever seen,
212
00:11:24,084 --> 00:11:26,219
very quiet, very elegant.
213
00:11:26,319 --> 00:11:28,255
I loved all that.
214
00:11:28,355 --> 00:11:32,793
I met him on the 4th of July
at a party in 1924.
215
00:11:32,893 --> 00:11:34,728
I believe in
love at first sight
216
00:11:34,828 --> 00:11:36,730
because that's what it was.
217
00:11:39,199 --> 00:11:42,002
( woman )
And did you
anticipate getting married ?
218
00:11:42,102 --> 00:11:43,336
Or, again, was this...
219
00:11:43,436 --> 00:11:45,372
Oh, yes,
because I was romantic.
220
00:11:45,472 --> 00:11:47,374
Anything that was romantic
was great.
221
00:11:47,474 --> 00:11:50,778
Nothing could have
spoiled my happiness.
222
00:11:50,878 --> 00:11:53,713
Reed made me feel beautiful
no matter
223
00:11:53,814 --> 00:11:56,483
what my mother made me think.
224
00:11:56,583 --> 00:12:01,288
Reed and I moved to London
just before the Crash in 1929.
225
00:12:01,388 --> 00:12:05,225
Now, London ran the world,
don't forget !
226
00:12:05,325 --> 00:12:08,295
I learned
everything in England.
227
00:12:08,395 --> 00:12:10,397
I learned English !
228
00:12:10,497 --> 00:12:15,735
But, of course, the best thing
about London is Paris.
229
00:12:15,836 --> 00:12:17,037
It was the '30s.
230
00:12:17,137 --> 00:12:19,306
Strangers were dancing with
strangers,
231
00:12:19,406 --> 00:12:21,141
girls were
dancing with girls.
232
00:12:21,241 --> 00:12:22,509
It was always raining.
233
00:12:22,609 --> 00:12:26,313
It was hideous--
and marvelous.
234
00:12:26,413 --> 00:12:28,115
The clothes !
235
00:12:28,215 --> 00:12:31,051
That's where I really learned
about fashion.
236
00:12:31,151 --> 00:12:35,122
No one had a better sense
of luxury than Coco Chanel.
237
00:12:35,222 --> 00:12:38,158
She really had the spirit of
the 20th century.
238
00:12:38,258 --> 00:12:41,962
She really understood what
women's lives were going to be,
239
00:12:42,062 --> 00:12:43,230
that they were going to take
subways,
240
00:12:43,330 --> 00:12:45,232
they were
going to walk in the rain.
241
00:12:45,332 --> 00:12:48,201
( man )
Uh-hmm.
She was very rigorous
and vigorous.
242
00:12:48,301 --> 00:12:50,370
And, she was...
243
00:12:50,470 --> 00:12:53,974
She would always fit me
in her private atelier;
244
00:12:54,074 --> 00:12:56,343
we were very close, you know.
245
00:12:56,443 --> 00:12:59,847
George, you don't know what
a part of life
246
00:12:59,947 --> 00:13:01,949
fittings were for me.
247
00:13:02,049 --> 00:13:04,551
I used to have
three fittings on a nightgown
248
00:13:04,651 --> 00:13:07,787
and I'm not that deformed.
249
00:13:07,888 --> 00:13:09,957
At the same time,
250
00:13:10,057 --> 00:13:12,392
I was opening up my own lingerie
business in London.
251
00:13:12,492 --> 00:13:14,828
We had some women
who sewed in the shop,
252
00:13:14,928 --> 00:13:16,830
but the most beautiful work
253
00:13:16,930 --> 00:13:19,566
was done in a Spanish convent
by nuns.
254
00:13:22,069 --> 00:13:25,105
One day, Wallis Simpson
came into the shop
255
00:13:25,205 --> 00:13:29,309
and ordered three nightgowns
for a very special weekend.
256
00:13:29,409 --> 00:13:32,479
She was off for
a rendezvous with Edward,
257
00:13:32,579 --> 00:13:35,048
the new King of England.
258
00:13:35,148 --> 00:13:37,851
And the rest,
well, you know, is history.
259
00:13:37,951 --> 00:13:42,489
My little lingerie shop had
brought down the throne.
260
00:13:42,589 --> 00:13:46,026
( Edward )
You all know the reasons
261
00:13:46,126 --> 00:13:51,231
which have impelled me
to renounce the throne.
262
00:13:51,331 --> 00:13:53,466
( George )
Amazing story, Diana.
263
00:13:53,566 --> 00:13:56,203
Were you still living in
London at the time ?
264
00:13:56,303 --> 00:13:57,337
( Diana )
Good God, no.
265
00:13:57,437 --> 00:13:59,206
The empire was finished
and the war
266
00:13:59,306 --> 00:14:01,108
was about to break out.
267
00:14:01,208 --> 00:14:04,044
We were spending most of our
time with our family upstate
268
00:14:04,144 --> 00:14:05,245
in Brewster, New York.
269
00:14:07,180 --> 00:14:11,584
I was so depressed, leaving
Chanel, leaving Europe,
270
00:14:11,684 --> 00:14:16,957
leaving all
the world of my world.
271
00:14:17,057 --> 00:14:19,492
But you had your family.
272
00:14:19,592 --> 00:14:23,496
I grew up wishing I'd had any
mother but this mother.
273
00:14:23,596 --> 00:14:26,399
I didn't understand
why I couldn't have
274
00:14:26,499 --> 00:14:27,968
just an old nice mom
275
00:14:28,068 --> 00:14:31,004
like all my friends had.
The other guys.
276
00:14:31,104 --> 00:14:32,405
Yeah, what--
277
00:14:32,505 --> 00:14:33,907
I didn't want
the other boys
278
00:14:34,007 --> 00:14:36,576
to associate me with
this woman.
279
00:14:36,676 --> 00:14:41,114
( Frecky )
She always made it clear that
she wanted us to be originals.
280
00:14:41,214 --> 00:14:43,016
You've got to be either
first in your class
281
00:14:43,116 --> 00:14:44,551
or the bottom
of the class.
282
00:14:44,651 --> 00:14:46,486
Don't be in the middle.
283
00:14:46,586 --> 00:14:49,957
That's a wretched piece of
advice to give a school kid.
284
00:14:50,057 --> 00:14:53,060
( Diana )
George, why all
this family talk ?
285
00:14:53,160 --> 00:14:55,262
Shouldn't we get to the more
exciting stuff ?
286
00:14:55,362 --> 00:14:58,932
( George )
I find your family
life very interesting.
287
00:14:59,032 --> 00:15:02,002
Well, did I tell you about
the time when
288
00:15:02,102 --> 00:15:05,538
me and my son Frecky
were sitting in Brewster,
289
00:15:05,638 --> 00:15:08,108
and you'll never guess who
flew over our head.
290
00:15:08,208 --> 00:15:09,676
Lindbergh !
291
00:15:09,776 --> 00:15:11,911
( man on radio )
Charles Augustus Lindbergh
292
00:15:12,012 --> 00:15:14,514
will attempt what no man
has ever dared.
293
00:15:14,614 --> 00:15:17,350
He will attempt to fly
the Atlantic non-stop.
294
00:15:17,450 --> 00:15:22,555
New York to Paris alone,
all alone.
295
00:15:24,524 --> 00:15:28,395
He flew right over us,
en route to Paris !
296
00:15:28,495 --> 00:15:31,564
I always thought this
was a very lucky sort of sign.
297
00:15:31,664 --> 00:15:33,200
Had you already started
working at
298
00:15:33,300 --> 00:15:34,968
"Harper's Bazaar"
at this time ?
299
00:15:35,068 --> 00:15:36,303
We had just
moved into the city,
300
00:15:36,403 --> 00:15:37,637
and I was going through money
301
00:15:37,737 --> 00:15:40,040
like someone goes through
whiskey
302
00:15:40,140 --> 00:15:41,441
if you're an alcoholic.
303
00:15:41,541 --> 00:15:42,475
Yes.
304
00:15:42,575 --> 00:15:45,045
How important is money ?
305
00:15:45,145 --> 00:15:47,447
Vital !
306
00:15:47,547 --> 00:15:50,984
Absolutely vital.
307
00:15:51,084 --> 00:15:54,587
Anyone who thinks otherwise
must be insane.
308
00:15:54,687 --> 00:15:56,456
Of course it's very
modern to say it,
309
00:15:56,556 --> 00:15:59,592
I mean, well-bred
people didn't talk like this
310
00:15:59,692 --> 00:16:04,998
about money at one time,
but today, by God, they do !
311
00:16:05,098 --> 00:16:07,634
( Diana )
We never really had that
much money,
312
00:16:07,734 --> 00:16:09,069
so I realized
I had to go to work.
313
00:16:09,169 --> 00:16:11,371
It hadn't crossed my mind
to work,
314
00:16:11,471 --> 00:16:14,741
because I'm really basically
quite lazy, you see.
315
00:16:14,841 --> 00:16:17,277
But, I loved it, loved it !
316
00:16:17,377 --> 00:16:19,646
I was so mad about
working in those days,
317
00:16:19,746 --> 00:16:21,348
so mad about taking the train,
318
00:16:21,448 --> 00:16:24,651
I was so mad about
everything that was happening.
319
00:16:24,751 --> 00:16:26,386
( man on radio )
Of the 60 million Americans
320
00:16:26,486 --> 00:16:28,221
who hurry to their jobs
321
00:16:28,321 --> 00:16:32,225
on workday mornings,
one in every four is a woman.
322
00:16:32,325 --> 00:16:36,496
More and more women are rising
to top-flight executive jobs.
323
00:16:36,596 --> 00:16:39,499
Mrs. Carmel Snow
of "Harper's Bazaar."
324
00:16:39,599 --> 00:16:40,600
( George )
Tell me about Carmel Snow.
325
00:16:40,700 --> 00:16:42,335
How did she find you ?
326
00:16:42,435 --> 00:16:45,272
( Diana )
Well, you see,
she saw me dancing at
327
00:16:45,372 --> 00:16:47,240
the St. Regis one night.
328
00:16:47,340 --> 00:16:50,377
She admired what I had on--
Chanel, of course.
329
00:16:50,477 --> 00:16:52,612
So, she offered me a job.
330
00:16:52,712 --> 00:16:55,515
I said, "But I've never
worked before.
331
00:16:55,615 --> 00:16:58,585
I've never
dressed before lunch."
332
00:16:58,685 --> 00:17:01,454
She said, "But you seem to
know a lot about clothes.
333
00:17:01,554 --> 00:17:04,124
Why don't you try it ?"
334
00:17:04,224 --> 00:17:07,794
"Why don't you
try it ?"
335
00:17:07,894 --> 00:17:11,598
So I started a column called
"Why Don't You..."
336
00:17:11,698 --> 00:17:13,233
It was rather frivolous.
337
00:17:13,333 --> 00:17:16,536
I don't remember too many of
the ideas, thank goodness,
338
00:17:16,636 --> 00:17:21,274
but they were all very true
and tried ideas, mind you.
339
00:17:21,374 --> 00:17:23,643
"Why don't you have the most
beautiful necklace in the world
340
00:17:23,743 --> 00:17:29,382
made of huge pink spiky coral
and big Siberian emeralds ?"
341
00:17:29,482 --> 00:17:33,186
"Why don't you rinse your blond
child's hair in dead champagne
342
00:17:33,286 --> 00:17:36,256
to keep it gold
as they do in France ?"
343
00:17:36,356 --> 00:17:38,358
( Frecky )
It was the Recession
and in the middle of it,
344
00:17:38,458 --> 00:17:44,297
here is somebody advocating that
you do way-out things.
345
00:17:44,397 --> 00:17:48,168
It was a voice
crying in the wilderness.
346
00:17:48,268 --> 00:17:51,238
( Olivia )
"Why don't you paint a map
of the world on all four walls
347
00:17:51,338 --> 00:17:53,173
"of your boys' nursery
348
00:17:53,273 --> 00:17:56,443
so they won't grow up with
a provincial point of view ?"
349
00:17:56,543 --> 00:17:59,112
"Why don't you wear
violet velvet mittens
350
00:17:59,212 --> 00:18:00,847
with everything ?"
351
00:18:00,947 --> 00:18:04,217
( woman )
It appears as though she
didn't edit herself,
352
00:18:04,317 --> 00:18:06,153
but of course,
353
00:18:06,253 --> 00:18:08,155
she knew what had
the sound of rhythm,
354
00:18:08,255 --> 00:18:10,590
she knew what had
the sound of madness
355
00:18:10,690 --> 00:18:12,559
and surprise and all of that.
356
00:18:12,659 --> 00:18:15,328
( Frecky )
The important thing is that it
was the first step
357
00:18:15,428 --> 00:18:19,098
into a career in fashion.
358
00:18:19,199 --> 00:18:21,801
( Diana )
You know, I quickly
became fashion editor
359
00:18:21,901 --> 00:18:23,236
of "Harper's Bazaar."
360
00:18:23,336 --> 00:18:25,138
It was quite an important role
at the time,
361
00:18:25,238 --> 00:18:27,707
meaning that I wasn't
"a" fashion editor;
362
00:18:27,807 --> 00:18:32,412
I was the one-and-only
fashion editor.
363
00:18:32,512 --> 00:18:35,215
( George )
So you stopped doing
"Why Don't Yous..." ?
364
00:18:35,315 --> 00:18:36,583
Well, we went to war.
365
00:18:36,683 --> 00:18:38,851
I mean, that Europe
went to war.
366
00:18:38,951 --> 00:18:40,653
And "Why Don't You..."
seemed so silly.
367
00:18:40,753 --> 00:18:43,690
Ridiculous, absurd.
368
00:18:46,293 --> 00:18:47,760
Did I tell you about the night
I saw Hitler
369
00:18:47,860 --> 00:18:49,762
before the war ?
370
00:18:49,862 --> 00:18:52,232
I was at the Munich Opera.
371
00:18:52,332 --> 00:18:53,633
My friend whispered
to me,
372
00:18:53,733 --> 00:18:55,735
"It might
interest you, Madame,
373
00:18:55,835 --> 00:18:58,205
"to see the man who
wishes to be
374
00:18:58,305 --> 00:19:01,674
dictator
called Herr Hitler."
375
00:19:01,774 --> 00:19:03,343
So I looked down,
376
00:19:03,443 --> 00:19:06,746
that mustache
was unbelievable.
377
00:19:06,846 --> 00:19:09,382
It was so hilarious,
it was just wrong.
378
00:19:13,820 --> 00:19:16,589
( woman )
Mrs. Vreeland's major
contribution to the magazine
379
00:19:16,689 --> 00:19:18,191
certainly was imagination
380
00:19:18,291 --> 00:19:21,594
and a very, very
original point of view.
381
00:19:21,694 --> 00:19:23,630
She simply didn't think
like other people.
382
00:19:27,234 --> 00:19:29,802
Do you know what came out of
the war, George ?
383
00:19:29,902 --> 00:19:33,306
Peace at last,
and the bikini !
384
00:19:33,406 --> 00:19:36,276
*
385
00:19:36,376 --> 00:19:41,914
It was the biggest thing
since the atom bomb.
386
00:19:42,014 --> 00:19:44,951
America wasn't ready for it,
but I'm a reporter.
387
00:19:45,051 --> 00:19:47,487
I know news when I see it.
388
00:19:47,587 --> 00:19:49,656
*
389
00:19:53,760 --> 00:19:56,763
( Barbara )
She had the first bikini,
and she put it on a model.
390
00:19:56,863 --> 00:20:00,533
And, we were all in her office
and we were all aghast.
391
00:20:00,633 --> 00:20:05,305
You know, we had never seen such
exposure of skin and she said,
392
00:20:05,405 --> 00:20:07,640
"With an attitude like that,
393
00:20:07,740 --> 00:20:09,409
you keep civilization back
a thousand years."
394
00:20:09,509 --> 00:20:12,512
*
395
00:20:12,612 --> 00:20:15,282
Mrs. Vreeland was not only
responsible
396
00:20:15,382 --> 00:20:18,751
for the fashion look
of the magazine,
397
00:20:18,851 --> 00:20:21,788
but, I think,
of fashion at the time.
398
00:20:21,888 --> 00:20:23,756
*
399
00:20:32,031 --> 00:20:35,535
( George )
Is it true you also
popularized the blue jeans ?
400
00:20:35,635 --> 00:20:37,737
( Diana )
To me, since the gondola,
401
00:20:37,837 --> 00:20:41,007
there's never been anything
like the blue jean.
402
00:20:41,107 --> 00:20:43,910
They're the most beautiful
things I've ever seen.
403
00:20:44,010 --> 00:20:46,313
I've done six or seven
articles on them, you know.
404
00:20:46,413 --> 00:20:47,714
And do I have it right that
you discovered
405
00:20:47,814 --> 00:20:48,781
Lauren Bacall ?
406
00:20:48,881 --> 00:20:50,783
Oh, Betty was great.
407
00:20:50,883 --> 00:20:53,853
( woman )
What did you first think when
you saw that very first picture
408
00:20:53,953 --> 00:20:55,522
of Betty Bacall ?
409
00:20:55,622 --> 00:20:59,359
She came smiling into
my office with this, um--
410
00:20:59,459 --> 00:21:01,294
Someone had found her on
the street corner,
411
00:21:01,394 --> 00:21:02,795
looking for a cab
or something
412
00:21:02,895 --> 00:21:04,931
with this wide
Russian face.
413
00:21:05,031 --> 00:21:06,533
I don't know how keen
she'll be about being
414
00:21:06,633 --> 00:21:08,034
called a Russian,
415
00:21:08,134 --> 00:21:10,903
but that's what she looked
like to me in those days.
416
00:21:11,003 --> 00:21:12,639
( woman )
Anyone that knows
Diana Vreeland
417
00:21:12,739 --> 00:21:14,341
knows that one has never
seen anyone
418
00:21:14,441 --> 00:21:15,842
that looks like Diana Vreeland.
419
00:21:15,942 --> 00:21:19,011
I mean, she wore flats
and black tights
420
00:21:19,111 --> 00:21:20,480
before anyone ever
thought of it, you know.
421
00:21:20,580 --> 00:21:23,716
We couldn't take
a bad picture of Betty,
422
00:21:23,816 --> 00:21:25,385
not possibly take
a bad picture.
423
00:21:25,485 --> 00:21:27,954
I've never seen
a model quite like that.
424
00:21:28,054 --> 00:21:32,492
( Diana )
After I put her on the cover,
she got a call from Hollywood.
425
00:21:32,592 --> 00:21:34,494
*
426
00:21:41,601 --> 00:21:43,570
You know you don't have to
act with me, Steve.
427
00:21:43,670 --> 00:21:45,338
You don't
have to say anything
428
00:21:45,438 --> 00:21:46,873
and you don't have to
do anything.
429
00:21:46,973 --> 00:21:48,074
Not a thing.
430
00:21:49,642 --> 00:21:52,812
Oh, maybe
just whistle.
431
00:21:52,912 --> 00:21:56,349
I graduated from Wellesley
in 1960,
432
00:21:56,449 --> 00:21:58,851
thinking that I wanted
to be in the fashion business.
433
00:21:58,951 --> 00:22:01,354
I was a "Harper's Bazaar"
magazine reader,
434
00:22:01,454 --> 00:22:03,723
voracious reader.
435
00:22:03,823 --> 00:22:05,358
And to my amazement,
436
00:22:05,458 --> 00:22:07,394
I got a job with someone I had
never heard of,
437
00:22:07,494 --> 00:22:08,528
and it was
Diana Vreeland.
438
00:22:10,997 --> 00:22:14,100
I got the picture right away
that I was working for someone
439
00:22:14,200 --> 00:22:18,037
very, very creative,
very, very demanding.
440
00:22:18,137 --> 00:22:20,573
( women )
Good morning, Ms. Prescott.
441
00:22:22,875 --> 00:22:26,479
When Mrs. Vreeland came storming
into the room,
442
00:22:26,579 --> 00:22:29,549
she'd start barking orders,
"Girl, get me some pencils."
443
00:22:29,649 --> 00:22:30,917
That would be me.
444
00:22:31,017 --> 00:22:33,420
"A letter,
I need Cecil Beaton !"
445
00:22:35,755 --> 00:22:38,558
( woman )
Now, hear this !
446
00:22:42,729 --> 00:22:47,133
( Lillian )
She always gave her assistants
a very hard time.
447
00:22:47,233 --> 00:22:50,603
They always cried during
the day.
448
00:22:50,703 --> 00:22:54,907
Came back the next
morning loving her.
449
00:22:55,007 --> 00:22:57,610
Were you an easy woman
to work for ?
No.
450
00:22:57,710 --> 00:23:00,913
I had that reputation of
not being easy, and I am.
451
00:23:01,013 --> 00:23:02,649
I'm charming,
I'm very easy.
452
00:23:02,749 --> 00:23:06,886
But naturally, I expect someone
to do as much work as I do,
453
00:23:06,986 --> 00:23:09,656
which I believe
is not usual,
454
00:23:09,756 --> 00:23:11,123
I'm told, I don't know.
455
00:23:11,223 --> 00:23:13,960
One day,
she stormed into the room
456
00:23:14,060 --> 00:23:15,161
after a particularly good lunch
457
00:23:15,261 --> 00:23:16,963
and she chucked
her huge coat at me.
458
00:23:17,063 --> 00:23:18,965
And I chucked it back at her.
459
00:23:19,065 --> 00:23:21,934
I mean, it was just knee-jerk,
it was like volleyball.
460
00:23:22,034 --> 00:23:23,903
And she said in a loud voice,
461
00:23:24,003 --> 00:23:27,507
"That is the rudest girl
I've ever met."
462
00:23:27,607 --> 00:23:29,175
And I was not.
463
00:23:29,275 --> 00:23:34,947
I was not, but it was, it was
pretty...
464
00:23:35,047 --> 00:23:37,517
annoying, I think.
465
00:23:37,617 --> 00:23:38,751
On the other hand--
( dog barking )
466
00:23:38,851 --> 00:23:42,054
Stop it !
467
00:23:42,154 --> 00:23:44,624
Everyone was threatened
by Diana Vreeland.
468
00:23:44,724 --> 00:23:47,193
I mean, she was threatening,
she was awesome,
469
00:23:47,293 --> 00:23:48,928
she was one of the only people--
There were two people--
470
00:23:49,028 --> 00:23:50,129
I used to say to say there were
471
00:23:50,229 --> 00:23:51,130
only two people
in the entire field
472
00:23:51,230 --> 00:23:52,932
that ever intimidated me.
473
00:23:53,032 --> 00:23:54,767
One was Diana Vreeland and the
other one was Dick Avedon.
474
00:23:54,867 --> 00:23:56,803
I was terrified of both of them.
475
00:23:56,903 --> 00:24:00,673
Boy, was I lucky that I would
have Carmel Snow as my editor
476
00:24:00,773 --> 00:24:02,942
and Diana Vreeland
as my fashion editor.
477
00:24:03,042 --> 00:24:05,712
And I was 19 or 20
478
00:24:05,812 --> 00:24:07,714
and I went straight
from the Merchant Marine,
479
00:24:07,814 --> 00:24:09,882
which meant straight
from my home
480
00:24:09,982 --> 00:24:14,120
to my mother, father,
and crazy aunt--
481
00:24:14,220 --> 00:24:18,090
brilliant crazy aunt who
just exploded with imagination.
482
00:24:18,190 --> 00:24:21,494
Instead of saying,
"Do this, we need that"
483
00:24:21,594 --> 00:24:23,496
in the issue, she'd tell
an anecdote.
484
00:24:23,596 --> 00:24:26,566
She'd-- for example,
I went to Egypt with Dovima
485
00:24:26,666 --> 00:24:30,236
and she sent me
a memo that said,
486
00:24:30,336 --> 00:24:32,872
"Dick, before you plan these
pictures,
487
00:24:32,972 --> 00:24:34,974
"just think about Cleopatra,
488
00:24:35,074 --> 00:24:36,909
"think about
those hot nights.
489
00:24:37,009 --> 00:24:39,846
"She was walking on the roof,
everybody is so old
490
00:24:39,946 --> 00:24:43,583
and she's this young beautiful
girl pacing that roof !"
491
00:24:45,685 --> 00:24:48,187
She just sort of threw
your way of thinking.
492
00:24:48,287 --> 00:24:53,926
( woman )
Nobody did pure female
glamour like Dick Avedon,
493
00:24:54,026 --> 00:24:58,698
and no one knew it like
Diana Vreeland.
494
00:24:58,798 --> 00:25:01,868
She had this taste
495
00:25:01,968 --> 00:25:04,971
for the extraordinary
and for the extreme.
496
00:25:05,071 --> 00:25:07,607
*
497
00:25:19,285 --> 00:25:21,520
( Richard )
Vreeland invented
the fashion editor.
498
00:25:21,621 --> 00:25:22,755
Before her,
it was society ladies
499
00:25:22,855 --> 00:25:24,190
who put hats on other
society ladies,
500
00:25:24,290 --> 00:25:25,992
now it's promotion ladies
501
00:25:26,092 --> 00:25:27,159
who compete with other
promotion ladies.
502
00:25:27,259 --> 00:25:31,764
No one has
equaled her, not nearly.
503
00:25:31,864 --> 00:25:35,034
( Anjelica )
The magazines before she came
were all about how to fit in
504
00:25:35,134 --> 00:25:37,904
with your husband
or cook a pie or,
505
00:25:38,004 --> 00:25:41,307
you know,
even glamorous women.
506
00:25:41,407 --> 00:25:44,811
But she said, "Pie ?
507
00:25:44,911 --> 00:25:48,715
Who cares about pie
when there's Russia ?"
508
00:25:48,815 --> 00:25:50,850
*
509
00:25:59,926 --> 00:26:02,261
( man )
She gave "Harper's Bazaar"
its pep,
510
00:26:02,361 --> 00:26:03,930
that was her big contribution.
511
00:26:04,030 --> 00:26:07,634
She gave fantasy to fashion
and romanticized it
512
00:26:07,734 --> 00:26:11,704
because basically deep down,
it's not romantic.
513
00:26:11,804 --> 00:26:14,974
Fashion is
very boring subject.
514
00:26:15,074 --> 00:26:17,744
I mean, she gave the energy
515
00:26:17,844 --> 00:26:20,279
and the pep to anything
she touched.
516
00:26:20,379 --> 00:26:22,114
That's important,
even when you talked to her,
517
00:26:22,214 --> 00:26:24,651
she gave you... pep.
518
00:26:24,751 --> 00:26:26,252
*
519
00:26:32,424 --> 00:26:34,260
( Tim )
She talked about spreads.
520
00:26:34,360 --> 00:26:39,598
She talked about visions that
she had of a particular spread.
521
00:26:39,699 --> 00:26:42,902
They always sounded
kind of fantastical to me.
522
00:26:43,002 --> 00:26:45,805
I mean, they would all go off to
some remote part of the world
523
00:26:45,905 --> 00:26:50,176
with the photographer
and glorious models
524
00:26:50,276 --> 00:26:54,046
and invent fantasy.
525
00:26:54,146 --> 00:26:58,084
( man )
We need adventure and she was
the lady that would go anywhere.
526
00:26:58,184 --> 00:27:00,887
If you said to Diana Vreeland
527
00:27:00,987 --> 00:27:02,188
we're going to put you
in a space ship
528
00:27:02,288 --> 00:27:06,058
and you're going
to the moon, she'd go !
529
00:27:06,158 --> 00:27:09,395
( Tim )
I remember when she did this
fashion shoot in Arizona
530
00:27:09,495 --> 00:27:12,665
at the Pauson House
by Frank Lloyd Wright.
531
00:27:12,765 --> 00:27:15,234
She even modeled herself
during the shoot.
532
00:27:21,708 --> 00:27:26,913
( Lillian )
I must say, I used to love to
get an assignment from her
533
00:27:27,013 --> 00:27:31,183
because she would
get in front of the mirror
534
00:27:31,283 --> 00:27:37,990
and become the model that she
wanted you to photograph.
535
00:27:38,090 --> 00:27:42,228
I remember I had
a group of kimonos to do.
536
00:27:42,328 --> 00:27:46,098
She got in front of the mirror
and showed me how
537
00:27:46,198 --> 00:27:50,336
in a kimono you didn't stand
straight, you curved your body.
538
00:27:53,973 --> 00:27:57,109
And she just
took on the whole aura.
539
00:27:57,209 --> 00:28:02,281
You-- you really felt that
she was a geisha girl
540
00:28:02,381 --> 00:28:04,183
in front of that mirror.
541
00:28:06,986 --> 00:28:09,922
( Diana )
Every girl in the world should
have geisha training.
542
00:28:10,022 --> 00:28:13,960
The idea is that you
learn from exaggeration.
543
00:28:14,060 --> 00:28:17,696
The way they move, their voices,
their faces, the makeup !
544
00:28:20,366 --> 00:28:23,302
God was fair to the Japanese.
545
00:28:23,402 --> 00:28:28,007
He gave them no oil,
no diamonds, no gold, nothing,
546
00:28:28,107 --> 00:28:32,745
but he gave them
a sense of style.
547
00:28:32,845 --> 00:28:35,014
Style is everything, George.
548
00:28:35,114 --> 00:28:36,783
It helps you
get up in the morning.
549
00:28:36,883 --> 00:28:40,286
It helps you get down the
stairs, it's a way of life.
550
00:28:40,386 --> 00:28:42,955
Without it, you're nobody.
551
00:28:43,055 --> 00:28:45,424
And I'm not talking about
a lot of clothes.
552
00:28:49,829 --> 00:28:53,232
( Ali )
She was very aware of which girl
had-- had something
553
00:28:53,332 --> 00:28:55,034
that wasn't just dress,
554
00:28:55,134 --> 00:28:57,870
you know, how do you say,
clothing horse.
555
00:28:57,970 --> 00:29:00,506
The posture,
the body, the movement.
556
00:29:00,606 --> 00:29:04,944
She might do.
Might do what ?
557
00:29:05,044 --> 00:29:06,779
The bones are good.
558
00:29:06,879 --> 00:29:09,515
There were this little kind of
washed out, little Irish girls,
559
00:29:09,615 --> 00:29:13,853
from, you know, Yonkers,
and she turned them into queens.
560
00:29:13,953 --> 00:29:15,354
*
561
00:29:25,531 --> 00:29:29,001
( Diana )
They have to do a great deal
for themselves--
562
00:29:29,101 --> 00:29:30,502
their skin, their posture,
563
00:29:30,602 --> 00:29:34,506
their walk, their interests in
things, their education.
564
00:29:34,606 --> 00:29:36,809
*
565
00:29:36,909 --> 00:29:40,012
She said, "Even if you're
wearing closed shoes and boots,
566
00:29:40,112 --> 00:29:42,248
your toenails have to be
perfect."
567
00:29:43,883 --> 00:29:47,920
You know, it was like
every single detail.
568
00:29:48,020 --> 00:29:50,289
She knew that if your toenails
were painted, maybe you would
569
00:29:50,389 --> 00:29:51,557
walk in a different way.
570
00:29:51,657 --> 00:29:54,460
So I don't know,
but it was there.
571
00:29:54,560 --> 00:29:58,230
You know, a special woman,
who-- who--
572
00:29:58,330 --> 00:29:59,431
Which other women--
573
00:29:59,531 --> 00:30:02,902
Name any of the ones
you interviewed.
574
00:30:03,002 --> 00:30:04,904
Do any of them have
any sense like that ?
575
00:30:05,004 --> 00:30:06,538
No !
576
00:30:06,638 --> 00:30:07,974
No.
577
00:30:10,276 --> 00:30:13,312
What does it matter how people
look and how they dress ?
578
00:30:13,412 --> 00:30:15,814
I should think it'd
only matter to them.
579
00:30:15,915 --> 00:30:17,083
Yeah.
580
00:30:17,183 --> 00:30:19,318
I don't see that it matters
to anyone else.
581
00:30:19,418 --> 00:30:21,921
Do I look all right ?
You look great !
582
00:30:22,021 --> 00:30:23,222
And that matters to me.
583
00:30:23,322 --> 00:30:24,290
You look great.
I do ?
584
00:30:24,390 --> 00:30:25,491
Yes, yes.
585
00:30:25,591 --> 00:30:28,327
She was more
than just an editor.
586
00:30:28,427 --> 00:30:31,330
She was something
extraordinary.
587
00:30:31,430 --> 00:30:33,532
She was the creator
of fashion
588
00:30:33,632 --> 00:30:35,601
and she understood fashion
589
00:30:35,701 --> 00:30:38,137
in a totally
different way.
590
00:30:38,237 --> 00:30:42,141
( China )
One can make fashion
or one is.
591
00:30:42,241 --> 00:30:45,277
Diana was fashion.
592
00:30:45,377 --> 00:30:47,046
It's different.
593
00:30:47,146 --> 00:30:50,082
Do Americans, as a rule,
have good taste or bad taste ?
594
00:30:50,182 --> 00:30:52,418
They don't have any taste
or any desire for taste.
595
00:30:52,518 --> 00:30:56,222
The Kennedys are-- have--
have style, don't they ?
596
00:30:56,322 --> 00:30:57,924
Sure, Kennedy style.
597
00:30:58,024 --> 00:31:00,626
Jacqueline Onassis is--
598
00:31:00,726 --> 00:31:02,895
But she wasn't born
a Kennedy, don't forget.
599
00:31:02,995 --> 00:31:04,596
She's got her own
special style.
600
00:31:04,696 --> 00:31:07,499
When did you first discover
Jacqueline ?
601
00:31:07,599 --> 00:31:09,635
Always known her,
always known her.
602
00:31:09,735 --> 00:31:12,571
Love her.
You remember her
as a young girl ?
603
00:31:12,671 --> 00:31:15,207
Yes, she just had that
wonderful pizzazz of youth.
604
00:31:15,307 --> 00:31:17,009
She was avid, out for
everything.
605
00:31:17,109 --> 00:31:20,512
She was enthusiastic,
something she's never lost.
606
00:31:20,612 --> 00:31:22,514
*
607
00:31:22,614 --> 00:31:25,017
( Frecky )
When Jack Kennedy ran
for President,
608
00:31:25,117 --> 00:31:29,221
Jackie had no qualms
about asking Mom for advice
609
00:31:29,321 --> 00:31:32,258
on what clothes to wear to
the inauguration
610
00:31:32,358 --> 00:31:33,960
in case he was elected.
611
00:31:34,060 --> 00:31:37,563
In fact, Jackie wrote to Mom,
"Dear Mrs. Vreeland,
612
00:31:37,663 --> 00:31:40,399
"it sounds as if you know
exactly the right things.
613
00:31:40,499 --> 00:31:43,435
"You are psychic
as well as an angel.
614
00:31:43,535 --> 00:31:46,038
"I feel it is presumptuous
615
00:31:46,138 --> 00:31:48,340
"and bad luck to even be
thinking about it now,
616
00:31:48,440 --> 00:31:50,676
"but it's such
fun to think about.
617
00:31:50,776 --> 00:31:55,247
"I would be imagining it even if
my husband were a garbage man.
618
00:31:55,347 --> 00:31:56,949
"I'll just have to get it anyway
619
00:31:57,049 --> 00:32:00,286
and wear it to watch TV
if things don't work out."
620
00:32:02,554 --> 00:32:08,327
But of course, Jack was elected
and Jackie looked beautiful.
621
00:32:08,427 --> 00:32:13,232
The torch has been passed to
a new generation of Americans.
622
00:32:15,734 --> 00:32:17,703
( Frecky )
Because of her friendship
with Mom,
623
00:32:17,803 --> 00:32:20,939
"Harper's Bazaar" was the first
to publish a picture
624
00:32:21,040 --> 00:32:22,441
of the Presidential couple.
625
00:32:22,541 --> 00:32:25,377
And she wrote, "Dear Diana,
everyone is wondering
626
00:32:25,477 --> 00:32:27,713
"why we chose 'Harper's Bazaar'
627
00:32:27,813 --> 00:32:30,216
"and they invent a million
reasons,
628
00:32:30,316 --> 00:32:33,219
and no one says
the real one, which is you."
629
00:32:35,621 --> 00:32:38,590
( George )
Diana, it seems like you
were on top of the world.
630
00:32:38,690 --> 00:32:42,161
Why on Earth weren't you made
editor-in-chief of "Bazaar" ?
631
00:32:42,261 --> 00:32:44,330
( Diana )
You know, George,
632
00:32:44,430 --> 00:32:46,598
after 26 years of making
$18,000 a year,
633
00:32:46,698 --> 00:32:50,202
the Hearsts
finally gave me a raise.
634
00:32:50,302 --> 00:32:53,105
$1,000 !
635
00:32:53,205 --> 00:32:54,673
Can you imagine ?
636
00:32:54,773 --> 00:32:59,678
So when Alexander Liberman at
"Vogue" came to see me,
637
00:32:59,778 --> 00:33:03,115
I suddenly made up
my mind to listen to him.
638
00:33:03,215 --> 00:33:05,717
( woman )
Ah Miss Maxwell...
The thorn...
639
00:33:05,817 --> 00:33:09,055
Who is she ?
The editor-in-chief...
640
00:33:25,537 --> 00:33:27,206
( woman on PA )
Number one...
641
00:33:35,214 --> 00:33:36,682
Magnifique !
642
00:33:36,782 --> 00:33:39,385
*
643
00:33:43,622 --> 00:33:45,791
( Diana )
I don't think anyone has ever
been in a better place
644
00:33:45,891 --> 00:33:47,359
at a better time
645
00:33:47,459 --> 00:33:49,261
than when I was editor of
"Vogue."
646
00:33:49,361 --> 00:33:53,465
It was the '60s
and it all started in London.
647
00:33:53,565 --> 00:33:55,767
*
648
00:34:08,314 --> 00:34:11,049
( woman )
The Beatles opened up enormous
new channel
649
00:34:11,150 --> 00:34:12,551
of excitement and life.
650
00:34:12,651 --> 00:34:15,754
You didn't have to have
certain kinds of manners.
651
00:34:15,854 --> 00:34:18,424
You wore your miniskirt
up to your crotch.
652
00:34:18,524 --> 00:34:20,826
In England,
you wore what you want.
653
00:34:20,926 --> 00:34:23,729
What Diana Vreeland did was
she channeled
654
00:34:23,829 --> 00:34:25,797
a certain kind of energy.
655
00:34:25,897 --> 00:34:28,300
Mrs. Vreeland felt that
the fashion
656
00:34:28,400 --> 00:34:32,271
that was coming off the streets
of London was the way forward.
657
00:34:32,371 --> 00:34:35,241
( man )
It was the time
of the youth revolution
658
00:34:35,341 --> 00:34:38,377
and she was so unbelievably
intrigued by it.
659
00:34:38,477 --> 00:34:42,848
And, uh, so she just
wanted to have the whole--
660
00:34:42,948 --> 00:34:46,185
a whole new brew of young
photographers,
661
00:34:46,285 --> 00:34:49,255
like Patrick Lichfield
and David Bailey.
662
00:34:49,355 --> 00:34:52,291
I think that sleeve would look
better down on the right side.
663
00:34:52,391 --> 00:34:54,726
Uh-uh, that's the left side.
664
00:34:54,826 --> 00:34:56,595
It was a very London thing,
in a way.
665
00:34:56,695 --> 00:34:59,565
I mean, the youth
and the vitality,
666
00:34:59,665 --> 00:35:01,133
and it was so different from
America.
667
00:35:01,233 --> 00:35:02,768
Well, say "lesbian"
a few times.
668
00:35:02,868 --> 00:35:05,237
Lesbian.
Good.
669
00:35:05,337 --> 00:35:07,273
And again.
Lesbian.
670
00:35:07,373 --> 00:35:09,441
With more feelings.
Lesbian !
671
00:35:09,541 --> 00:35:11,810
That's more like it.
Lesbian ?
672
00:35:11,910 --> 00:35:15,147
( David )
Vreeland sent
for me and Jean.
673
00:35:15,247 --> 00:35:17,316
I thought all of us were
going to get the elbow.
674
00:35:17,416 --> 00:35:19,618
I thought she'd bring all the
"Harper's Bazaar" photographers.
675
00:35:19,718 --> 00:35:23,622
It was raining and Jean didn't
want to go and she was crying.
676
00:35:23,722 --> 00:35:25,857
All her mascara was running.
677
00:35:25,957 --> 00:35:28,160
We looked like
a couple of drowned rats.
678
00:35:28,260 --> 00:35:32,198
We walked into the office
and she said, "Stop !"
679
00:35:32,298 --> 00:35:36,202
And Jean, tears came down,
she just stopped.
680
00:35:36,302 --> 00:35:38,470
We looked like
a couple of drowned rats
681
00:35:38,570 --> 00:35:39,638
standing in a puddle.
682
00:35:39,738 --> 00:35:40,806
And she said, "Stop !
683
00:35:40,906 --> 00:35:43,342
The English have arrived."
684
00:35:43,442 --> 00:35:44,743
*
685
00:35:56,888 --> 00:35:59,358
I love the '60s,
it was the Youthquake.
686
00:36:04,463 --> 00:36:06,932
( man )
"Vogue" was a very sleepy
magazine when she took it over.
687
00:36:07,032 --> 00:36:09,901
She really had to propel it
forward into being
688
00:36:10,001 --> 00:36:11,670
a cutting-edge magazine
689
00:36:11,770 --> 00:36:15,741
that people saw as
"the key fashion magazine."
690
00:36:15,841 --> 00:36:18,944
Mrs. Vreeland was
the perfect oracle
691
00:36:19,044 --> 00:36:21,347
for what was happening
in the world.
692
00:36:21,447 --> 00:36:24,483
I think she understood
this whole Youthquake.
693
00:36:24,583 --> 00:36:28,454
She understood this
influence of music and films
694
00:36:28,554 --> 00:36:32,291
and photographers and models
and understood the change
695
00:36:32,391 --> 00:36:37,463
and really presented it
to a bigger audience.
696
00:36:37,563 --> 00:36:39,498
( man )
She was waiting for the '60s.
697
00:36:39,598 --> 00:36:43,369
It was a revolution and probably
brought back the '20s to her.
698
00:36:43,469 --> 00:36:45,871
Because that was her period,
again,
699
00:36:45,971 --> 00:36:50,342
where everything was thrown out
and it was the new.
700
00:36:50,442 --> 00:36:53,479
There was a social,
there was a sexual,
701
00:36:53,579 --> 00:36:55,447
there was a political
revolution.
702
00:36:55,547 --> 00:36:57,783
You know, Civil Rights
and "Black was Beautiful."
703
00:36:57,883 --> 00:37:00,252
And, you know, all these things
that she could
704
00:37:00,352 --> 00:37:02,454
just jump all over.
705
00:37:02,554 --> 00:37:04,856
( Diana )
It was a revolution,
706
00:37:04,956 --> 00:37:07,225
and for the first time,
youth went out to life,
707
00:37:07,326 --> 00:37:10,228
instead of waiting for life
to come to them.
708
00:37:10,329 --> 00:37:11,797
Boys and girls could do
anything,
709
00:37:11,897 --> 00:37:13,432
it was true freedom !
710
00:37:14,866 --> 00:37:16,935
And, of course, the music !
711
00:37:17,035 --> 00:37:18,904
Isn't Mick marvelous ?
712
00:37:19,004 --> 00:37:21,440
Those lips !
713
00:37:21,540 --> 00:37:25,477
We did his photograph in '64
when he was quite plump !
714
00:37:25,577 --> 00:37:27,746
The first picture ever published
of Mick was with Vreeland
715
00:37:27,846 --> 00:37:29,014
because I offered it to British
"Vogue" and they said,
716
00:37:29,114 --> 00:37:30,316
"No, who is this guy ?"
717
00:37:30,416 --> 00:37:32,318
And I sent it
to Vreeland.
718
00:37:32,418 --> 00:37:33,785
She said, "I don't care who he
is, I'm going to publish it,
719
00:37:33,885 --> 00:37:34,986
it's such a great picture."
720
00:37:35,086 --> 00:37:36,555
As long as people
know about it,
721
00:37:36,655 --> 00:37:38,457
and they have to
know that you exist,
722
00:37:38,557 --> 00:37:40,759
which is a very important part
of if you are somebody
723
00:37:40,859 --> 00:37:42,494
new, starting out.
724
00:37:42,594 --> 00:37:45,897
Mrs. Vreeland really brought us
into a modern period.
725
00:37:49,335 --> 00:37:52,738
I think, you see, we are living
in a scientific age
726
00:37:52,838 --> 00:37:54,640
and I don't think that--
727
00:37:54,740 --> 00:37:57,609
That's the only thing that
brings us forward, is science.
728
00:37:59,578 --> 00:38:01,313
( Anna )
She just really got it
729
00:38:01,413 --> 00:38:04,049
and knew that fashion and the
world were on their way
730
00:38:04,149 --> 00:38:07,586
to something much more global
than what had been happening.
731
00:38:07,686 --> 00:38:09,455
*
732
00:38:11,457 --> 00:38:15,394
Not just fashion,
but also the arts,
733
00:38:15,494 --> 00:38:19,731
performers, entertainers,
and new models.
734
00:38:21,433 --> 00:38:23,635
( Diana )
We had Polish, we had English,
735
00:38:23,735 --> 00:38:26,705
we had girls from all the
different countries of Europe
736
00:38:26,805 --> 00:38:28,674
all coming here.
737
00:38:28,774 --> 00:38:31,843
You know, and they were
so happy to be somewhere else
738
00:38:31,943 --> 00:38:33,612
and they were wonderful.
739
00:38:33,712 --> 00:38:35,381
They were so charming.
740
00:38:35,481 --> 00:38:37,816
*
741
00:38:44,590 --> 00:38:45,824
I adored Twiggy !
742
00:38:45,924 --> 00:38:47,693
She's just such
a personality.
743
00:38:47,793 --> 00:38:50,562
She's such a kid, such a girl,
such a wow !
744
00:38:53,031 --> 00:38:57,035
When she first came to us,
I think she was about 16,
745
00:38:57,135 --> 00:38:59,838
and this Cockney kid walks in
746
00:38:59,938 --> 00:39:02,107
and she's a bit of all right,
I tell you.
747
00:39:02,207 --> 00:39:03,942
She almost killed me !
748
00:39:04,042 --> 00:39:04,943
I thought
she was so great !
749
00:39:05,043 --> 00:39:06,978
She was wonderful !
750
00:39:07,078 --> 00:39:09,481
For the first time, models,
like Twiggy,
751
00:39:09,581 --> 00:39:12,884
became personalities,
instead of simply mannequins.
752
00:39:12,984 --> 00:39:16,422
( Joel )
She would say,
"Push their faults."
753
00:39:16,522 --> 00:39:18,724
If they have a space between
their teeth,
754
00:39:18,824 --> 00:39:20,358
make it the most
beautiful thing about them.
755
00:39:20,459 --> 00:39:21,927
Make an asset of your faults.
756
00:39:22,027 --> 00:39:25,697
If you're tall, be taller,
wear high-heel shoes.
757
00:39:25,797 --> 00:39:28,500
If you have a long neck,
758
00:39:28,600 --> 00:39:30,001
be proud of it,
don't try to hunch over.
759
00:39:30,101 --> 00:39:31,970
If you have a long nose,
hold it up
760
00:39:32,070 --> 00:39:33,672
and make it your trademark.
761
00:39:33,772 --> 00:39:37,008
( Joel )
She celebrated
Barbra Streisand's nose
762
00:39:37,108 --> 00:39:39,645
and made it into, you know,
763
00:39:39,745 --> 00:39:42,748
a Renaissance statue or
painting.
764
00:39:42,848 --> 00:39:46,452
( Diana )
It was my idea to use
Barbra Streisand as a mannequin.
765
00:39:46,552 --> 00:39:50,956
We shot her in profile with
that Nefertiti nose of hers.
766
00:39:51,056 --> 00:39:54,426
Her success was overnight !
767
00:39:54,526 --> 00:39:55,427
Then there was Cher !
768
00:39:55,527 --> 00:39:57,496
That girl was a dream !
769
00:39:57,596 --> 00:39:59,064
No one had
ever heard of her,
770
00:39:59,164 --> 00:40:01,833
so I tracked her down,
sent for her,
771
00:40:01,933 --> 00:40:05,504
and, boy, did we use her !
772
00:40:05,604 --> 00:40:07,706
She modeled
for us forever.
773
00:40:09,675 --> 00:40:11,643
You see, George,
at the same time
774
00:40:11,743 --> 00:40:14,613
mannequins became personalities
in the '60s,
775
00:40:14,713 --> 00:40:17,783
personalities became mannequins.
776
00:40:17,883 --> 00:40:20,486
Ravishing personalities are
the most riveting things
777
00:40:20,586 --> 00:40:22,153
in the world.
778
00:40:22,253 --> 00:40:24,723
Conversation, people's
interests,
779
00:40:24,823 --> 00:40:27,559
the atmosphere that they
create around them,
780
00:40:27,659 --> 00:40:31,863
these are the only things
worth putting in any issue.
781
00:40:31,963 --> 00:40:35,000
Some of those girls that
she turned into models,
782
00:40:35,100 --> 00:40:36,201
people would say, why ?
783
00:40:36,301 --> 00:40:38,970
You know,
they look so strange.
784
00:40:39,070 --> 00:40:41,573
And-- but she saw something.
785
00:40:41,673 --> 00:40:44,743
And that's what was
extraordinary about her.
786
00:40:44,843 --> 00:40:48,780
She saw things in people
before they saw it themselves.
787
00:40:50,882 --> 00:40:55,487
( woman )
My aim was to use fashion to be
a transformer.
788
00:40:55,587 --> 00:41:01,126
I think that Vreeland
must have sensed it, that she--
789
00:41:01,226 --> 00:41:05,997
she said, "I want you to have
your own ideas and visions
790
00:41:06,097 --> 00:41:08,834
about how you
want to transform yourself,"
791
00:41:08,934 --> 00:41:11,970
because that was my wish:
to be different characters.
792
00:41:15,907 --> 00:41:19,911
For her, the most important
thing was that it wasn't boring.
793
00:41:21,547 --> 00:41:23,214
Don't be boring !
794
00:41:23,314 --> 00:41:24,983
*
795
00:41:31,823 --> 00:41:35,527
Don't tell a story, even if it's
true, if it's boring.
796
00:41:35,627 --> 00:41:38,229
Invent something !
797
00:41:38,329 --> 00:41:43,034
Mrs. Vreeland
invented this period herself.
798
00:41:43,134 --> 00:41:44,803
I mean, through the pages,
799
00:41:44,903 --> 00:41:48,139
she used people, like Veruschka,
looking like a leopard...
800
00:41:48,239 --> 00:41:50,876
I mean, this world without
a leopard,
801
00:41:50,976 --> 00:41:52,711
who would
want to be here ?
802
00:41:52,811 --> 00:41:55,881
( Manolo )
Marisa Berenson
with wigs, with this, with that.
803
00:41:55,981 --> 00:41:57,849
I think I was quite daring at
the time.
804
00:41:57,949 --> 00:42:02,153
You know, I was the first one to
do naked pictures in "Vogue."
805
00:42:02,253 --> 00:42:04,990
I was, uh, quite a free spirit.
806
00:42:05,090 --> 00:42:07,525
She used people
like Penelope.
807
00:42:07,626 --> 00:42:11,296
Penelope was not what I call
the look of a model.
808
00:42:11,396 --> 00:42:15,734
( woman )
I remember she looked down
on my shoes and she went,
809
00:42:15,834 --> 00:42:19,170
"I wonder what you're
going to do with your life.
810
00:42:19,270 --> 00:42:21,106
I don't think you'll be in
fashion."
811
00:42:28,814 --> 00:42:31,717
She would fix
her gaze on somebody
812
00:42:31,817 --> 00:42:33,885
and then they'd start to
blossom.
813
00:42:33,985 --> 00:42:36,922
I think she saw that
I was one of these new things.
814
00:42:37,022 --> 00:42:39,324
I wasn't one of these swans,
815
00:42:39,424 --> 00:42:42,728
these European put-together
'50s swans.
816
00:42:42,828 --> 00:42:46,798
I was sort of
this new American idea.
817
00:42:46,898 --> 00:42:50,001
( Anjelica )
She made it okay for women
to be ambitious,
818
00:42:50,101 --> 00:42:55,273
for women to be outlandish
and extraordinary,
819
00:42:55,373 --> 00:42:58,343
and for women
to garner attention.
820
00:42:58,443 --> 00:43:00,278
( Manolo )
Vision !
821
00:43:00,378 --> 00:43:02,948
"Vision" is the word I just
wanted to tell about her !
822
00:43:03,048 --> 00:43:05,283
She had a vision--
Did I say that already ?
823
00:43:05,383 --> 00:43:10,188
She really launched
a whole generation.
824
00:43:10,288 --> 00:43:13,058
She started me off,
she encouraged me with words.
825
00:43:13,158 --> 00:43:14,960
She put the clothes in
magazines.
826
00:43:15,060 --> 00:43:21,132
She said to me, "Young man,
why don't you do extremities ?
827
00:43:21,232 --> 00:43:23,368
Do shoes or something
like that."
828
00:43:23,468 --> 00:43:26,237
I say, "Oh !"
829
00:43:26,337 --> 00:43:29,841
"Young man, tell me what is--
what you want to do."
830
00:43:29,941 --> 00:43:32,377
And she very quickly
looked at my sketches.
831
00:43:32,477 --> 00:43:37,348
So that really, in a way decided
sort of my career.
832
00:43:37,448 --> 00:43:40,118
Diana opened the American
market for us.
833
00:43:40,218 --> 00:43:43,989
It was perfect
for our things.
834
00:43:44,089 --> 00:43:47,158
Mrs. Vreeland was America !
835
00:43:47,258 --> 00:43:50,662
( Diana )
All these people
invented themselves.
836
00:43:50,762 --> 00:43:54,165
Naturally, as the editor,
I was there to help them along.
837
00:43:54,265 --> 00:43:58,303
And her makeup... I need a face
that's smooth and hard
838
00:43:58,403 --> 00:43:59,671
and luminous...
839
00:43:59,771 --> 00:44:02,040
... like aluminum.
840
00:44:02,140 --> 00:44:05,343
I want her eyes
to go "bee beep."
841
00:44:05,443 --> 00:44:07,813
Do you understand ?
842
00:44:07,913 --> 00:44:11,917
It starts always with the person
who's in charge.
843
00:44:12,017 --> 00:44:13,985
That's the editor-in-chief.
844
00:44:14,085 --> 00:44:18,924
And clearly, Vreeland had
a very strong impact
845
00:44:19,024 --> 00:44:24,229
on the people that
she chose to do the editing.
846
00:44:24,329 --> 00:44:27,799
The men and women that she chose
to do the sittings.
847
00:44:27,899 --> 00:44:30,235
She hired them,
she inspired them
848
00:44:30,335 --> 00:44:33,772
and worked with
the photographers
849
00:44:33,872 --> 00:44:37,408
in a way that there was
a creativity
850
00:44:37,508 --> 00:44:39,310
that came through on the pages.
851
00:44:42,213 --> 00:44:43,949
( David )
She was a nightmare !
852
00:44:44,049 --> 00:44:47,018
She wasn't really interested in
photography in a way.
853
00:44:47,118 --> 00:44:48,954
It kind of got
in the way of the dresses.
854
00:44:49,054 --> 00:44:50,321
And I wasn't interested in
dresses;
855
00:44:50,421 --> 00:44:52,858
it kind of got in
the way of the photography.
856
00:44:52,958 --> 00:44:55,260
So, we were always
at the other end.
857
00:44:55,360 --> 00:44:59,397
She quite liked it when Bailey
was combative towards her.
858
00:44:59,497 --> 00:45:03,935
Bailey and I shot
a story about three times.
859
00:45:04,035 --> 00:45:05,937
And each time,
860
00:45:06,037 --> 00:45:07,939
she said she didn't
really like it.
861
00:45:08,039 --> 00:45:11,376
And, finally, we did it in
a completely different way
862
00:45:11,476 --> 00:45:14,045
and we were both
really happy with the results.
863
00:45:14,145 --> 00:45:17,248
And she looked at
the contact sheets...
864
00:45:27,058 --> 00:45:28,493
Divine.
865
00:45:28,593 --> 00:45:30,962
Dee-veen.
Dee-veen !
866
00:45:31,062 --> 00:45:32,931
"These are divine !
867
00:45:33,031 --> 00:45:34,465
"I've never seen Penelope
look like it !
868
00:45:34,565 --> 00:45:35,867
"She looks fantastic !
869
00:45:35,967 --> 00:45:37,735
How divine she looks !"
870
00:45:37,836 --> 00:45:42,173
She said, "But, of course,
I can't use these."
871
00:45:42,273 --> 00:45:44,409
And I'm going, "Why ? Why ?
872
00:45:44,509 --> 00:45:46,744
If they're great,
why can't we use them ?"
873
00:45:46,845 --> 00:45:49,848
She said,
"There's no langour !"
874
00:45:49,948 --> 00:45:51,983
"There's no langour
in the lips !
875
00:45:52,083 --> 00:45:54,786
You can't hardly
see the lips !"
876
00:45:54,886 --> 00:45:57,155
And I think I called her
a blind old bat.
877
00:45:57,255 --> 00:45:58,957
I mean, you know,
stuff like that,
878
00:45:59,057 --> 00:46:00,959
it just made you want to
strangle her,
879
00:46:01,059 --> 00:46:03,528
but, you know,
at the same time, it was--
880
00:46:03,628 --> 00:46:07,999
she had this sort of instinct
about how things should look.
881
00:46:08,099 --> 00:46:10,001
She would say, "Bob, you are not
supposed to give
882
00:46:10,101 --> 00:46:11,502
"people what they want;
883
00:46:11,602 --> 00:46:12,804
"you're supposed to give them
what they don't
884
00:46:12,904 --> 00:46:14,372
know they want yet."
885
00:46:14,472 --> 00:46:17,508
And that was, I guess,
the essence of her philosophy.
886
00:46:17,608 --> 00:46:20,545
Diana's "Vogue" had this
great sense of curiosity.
887
00:46:20,645 --> 00:46:22,480
I mean,
it wasn't just about fashion.
888
00:46:22,580 --> 00:46:24,916
It was about art, it was about
nightclubs,
889
00:46:25,016 --> 00:46:26,351
it was about music and,
890
00:46:26,451 --> 00:46:29,387
I mean, it was society,
it was all woven together.
891
00:46:29,487 --> 00:46:31,456
( woman )
"Vogue" was a wonderful
features magazine then.
892
00:46:31,556 --> 00:46:33,058
If you go through the people
893
00:46:33,158 --> 00:46:34,259
who were writing for
"Vogue" then,
894
00:46:34,359 --> 00:46:36,294
it's astonishing...
895
00:46:36,394 --> 00:46:38,964
( Diana )
"Vogue" always did stand
for people's lives.
896
00:46:39,064 --> 00:46:41,967
I mean, a new dress
doesn't get you anywhere,
897
00:46:42,067 --> 00:46:44,202
it's the life you're living in
the dress.
898
00:46:47,005 --> 00:46:49,007
Diana was really almost
the epitome
899
00:46:49,107 --> 00:46:50,275
of what New York was about,
900
00:46:50,375 --> 00:46:54,279
this melding of Europe
and America.
901
00:46:54,379 --> 00:46:56,814
And, this openness to everything
902
00:46:56,915 --> 00:46:59,084
that was new and different
and wild.
903
00:46:59,184 --> 00:47:01,452
I mean, you know, she--
she liked all the wild stuff.
904
00:47:01,552 --> 00:47:05,190
I mean, she was not shocked
by people taking drugs
905
00:47:05,290 --> 00:47:07,192
or people
being gay or people--
906
00:47:07,292 --> 00:47:09,360
You know, I mean,
she thought it was all amusing.
907
00:47:09,460 --> 00:47:13,464
She understood the genius
of vulgarity.
908
00:47:13,564 --> 00:47:16,301
She was fascinated with
pornography.
909
00:47:16,401 --> 00:47:20,838
She was fascinated with--
with plastic surgery, you know,
910
00:47:20,939 --> 00:47:22,473
the fact you could take
a woman's face
911
00:47:22,573 --> 00:47:24,109
and completely reshape it.
912
00:47:24,209 --> 00:47:26,945
She didn't see that
as immoral or anything.
913
00:47:27,045 --> 00:47:28,246
She thought, "Why not ?"
914
00:47:28,346 --> 00:47:30,982
Though she never
had it done herself.
915
00:47:31,082 --> 00:47:33,919
( Joel )
She hardly
was a traditional beauty.
916
00:47:34,019 --> 00:47:36,955
You know, she was a very
eccentric-looking woman.
917
00:47:37,055 --> 00:47:41,192
And what she did was, instead of
trying to fit into some mold,
918
00:47:41,292 --> 00:47:45,296
she absolutely went,
you know,
919
00:47:45,396 --> 00:47:47,432
in the way of designing herself
920
00:47:47,532 --> 00:47:53,571
so that she was an extraordinary
work of art in herself.
921
00:47:53,671 --> 00:47:57,108
Every detail was perfect.
922
00:47:57,208 --> 00:48:00,111
This is a woman
who put rouge on her ears
923
00:48:00,211 --> 00:48:02,113
because she saw Kabuki
performers do it
924
00:48:02,213 --> 00:48:05,483
and she thought it looked very
chic, which it did on her.
925
00:48:05,583 --> 00:48:07,052
I love rouge.
926
00:48:07,152 --> 00:48:09,654
Totally artificial.
Totally artificial, yes.
927
00:48:09,754 --> 00:48:11,422
We lead an
artificial life.
928
00:48:11,522 --> 00:48:15,160
We lead certainly an artificial
life in an artificial town.
929
00:48:15,260 --> 00:48:17,662
So, I mean,
why all this naturalness ?
930
00:48:17,762 --> 00:48:19,664
It's bloody boring.
931
00:48:19,764 --> 00:48:22,367
A form of laziness,
hmm ?
932
00:48:22,467 --> 00:48:26,337
That was her view of--
of life.
933
00:48:26,437 --> 00:48:29,207
That life is artifice.
934
00:48:29,307 --> 00:48:32,110
( Tim )
It's not until a woman
gets completely dressed up
935
00:48:32,210 --> 00:48:34,412
with all her makeup on
and all the artifice,
936
00:48:34,512 --> 00:48:36,481
then she's glorious !
937
00:48:36,581 --> 00:48:40,285
She saw the whole business
of preparing yourself
938
00:48:40,385 --> 00:48:46,992
and presenting yourself as
being almost ceremonialized.
939
00:48:47,092 --> 00:48:49,961
( Alexander )
From 8:00 'til noon,
940
00:48:50,061 --> 00:48:53,664
she'd be in her bathrobe, taking
phone calls, reading her mail.
941
00:48:53,764 --> 00:48:55,166
You know, people used to joke
the fact
942
00:48:55,266 --> 00:48:57,268
that she never had
any staff meetings.
943
00:48:57,368 --> 00:48:59,137
She didn't have staff meetings--
944
00:48:59,237 --> 00:49:00,471
she just told
everyone what to do.
945
00:49:02,173 --> 00:49:05,676
She used to send out
dozens of memos a day.
946
00:49:05,776 --> 00:49:07,445
She'd send a memo saying,
947
00:49:07,545 --> 00:49:10,181
"Marisa's neck has grown
two inches this year.
948
00:49:10,281 --> 00:49:14,152
I want you to photograph her
neck, that small head."
949
00:49:14,252 --> 00:49:17,955
"Go to Venice
and hire a thousand gondolas !"
950
00:49:18,056 --> 00:49:20,191
"Can you go to India to
photograph a white tiger ?"
951
00:49:20,291 --> 00:49:23,494
( Diana )
The strong face comes not only
from the bone construction,
952
00:49:23,594 --> 00:49:26,464
but from the inner thinking !
953
00:49:26,564 --> 00:49:30,701
Those memos were
so intelligent and fun
954
00:49:30,801 --> 00:49:34,339
and they explain so much her--
her mind.
955
00:49:34,439 --> 00:49:36,474
I'm extremely disappointed
956
00:49:36,574 --> 00:49:38,509
that no one has taken
the slightest interest
957
00:49:38,609 --> 00:49:41,346
in freckles on the models !
958
00:49:41,446 --> 00:49:46,084
She had blogs with her memos,
so she was the first blogger.
959
00:49:46,184 --> 00:49:48,319
In case any of this
is of interest to you,
960
00:49:48,419 --> 00:49:51,156
Brigitte Bardot travelled
halfway across the world
961
00:49:51,256 --> 00:49:53,424
to get married, barefoot !
962
00:49:53,524 --> 00:49:56,994
You'd be constantly sort of
breathless from, you know,
963
00:49:57,095 --> 00:49:59,630
things that she would
say and the way she thought.
964
00:49:59,730 --> 00:50:03,234
And you could never permeate
her thoughts.
965
00:50:03,334 --> 00:50:08,439
She brought you back to
wherever she was interested in.
966
00:50:08,539 --> 00:50:10,208
It was just like surfing
or something
967
00:50:10,308 --> 00:50:11,642
when you were with her;
968
00:50:11,742 --> 00:50:15,780
you sort of, you just
had to ride that wave.
969
00:50:15,880 --> 00:50:18,416
( Diana )
But, you know, I'm really only
envious of one thing
970
00:50:18,516 --> 00:50:20,051
and that is a surfer.
971
00:50:20,151 --> 00:50:22,753
I think it's the most beautiful
thing--
972
00:50:22,853 --> 00:50:25,022
see, I'm mad about water.
973
00:50:25,123 --> 00:50:27,658
I think water is God's
tranquilizer;
974
00:50:27,758 --> 00:50:33,131
to be in it,
to drink it, to look at it.
975
00:50:33,231 --> 00:50:38,403
And to be a surfer,
between the sky and the water
976
00:50:38,503 --> 00:50:40,638
would be, to me, the most
wonderful thing.
977
00:50:40,738 --> 00:50:42,773
I'm sorry I just didn't make it.
978
00:50:46,844 --> 00:50:49,280
Also, skateboards
I think are great.
979
00:50:49,380 --> 00:50:50,548
Great !
980
00:50:53,251 --> 00:50:57,188
I think any form of rhythm
is absolutely essential.
981
00:50:57,288 --> 00:50:59,557
I mean, we are
a physical people.
982
00:50:59,657 --> 00:51:02,793
We do count on action, mood,
983
00:51:02,893 --> 00:51:05,730
and wit of the body and so on
to survive.
984
00:51:08,166 --> 00:51:11,136
( Ingrid )
Her understanding
of rhythm is huge
985
00:51:11,236 --> 00:51:12,770
because you see
it with the sentences.
986
00:51:12,870 --> 00:51:15,206
In the same way,
she understood that in magazines
987
00:51:15,306 --> 00:51:17,375
why a magazine
has to have a pause.
988
00:51:17,475 --> 00:51:20,645
Why then it has to have a crash,
989
00:51:20,745 --> 00:51:22,180
why then it has to have a blast
of color,
990
00:51:22,280 --> 00:51:25,150
why then it has to have
a big headline.
991
00:51:25,250 --> 00:51:29,187
( Diana )
Does anyone read a picture book
from the beginning ?
992
00:51:29,287 --> 00:51:31,256
I don't.
993
00:51:31,356 --> 00:51:33,858
The eye has to travel.
994
00:51:38,263 --> 00:51:40,398
I tell you, George,
995
00:51:40,498 --> 00:51:42,500
I think I'm more proud of
the December issues
996
00:51:42,600 --> 00:51:44,602
than anything else.
997
00:51:44,702 --> 00:51:46,604
Everything attractive
that I could think of
998
00:51:46,704 --> 00:51:48,373
in the world
we would put into
999
00:51:48,473 --> 00:51:49,874
the December issues.
1000
00:51:49,974 --> 00:51:52,810
It was Diana's idea to make
the December issue
1001
00:51:52,910 --> 00:51:58,816
a really extraordinary,
unusual feast for the eyes.
1002
00:51:58,916 --> 00:52:00,851
( Diana )
We had the eyes of Deneuve,
1003
00:52:00,951 --> 00:52:04,655
the eyes of the gothic,
the kites, The Beatles !
1004
00:52:04,755 --> 00:52:08,359
We even had crossed-eyes !
1005
00:52:08,459 --> 00:52:12,163
And, of course,
we had Irving Penn
1006
00:52:12,263 --> 00:52:13,164
and his beautiful flowers.
1007
00:52:14,799 --> 00:52:17,702
The fantasy and the dreaming
was something
1008
00:52:17,802 --> 00:52:19,237
she wanted to give the reader
1009
00:52:19,337 --> 00:52:22,773
and she wanted to bring
these exotic places
1010
00:52:22,873 --> 00:52:25,776
into the reader's mind.
1011
00:52:25,876 --> 00:52:30,648
We would spend three weeks
photographing 20 pages
1012
00:52:30,748 --> 00:52:34,785
and it would be the
big story of the December Issue.
1013
00:52:34,885 --> 00:52:38,155
( Anjelica )
In those days,
it was a real story.
1014
00:52:38,256 --> 00:52:41,759
That's how you referred to
a layout.
1015
00:52:41,859 --> 00:52:45,530
You didn't refer to it
as just a series of photographs,
1016
00:52:45,630 --> 00:52:46,531
it was a story.
1017
00:52:46,631 --> 00:52:48,699
Everything was so precise
1018
00:52:48,799 --> 00:52:52,203
and there was such
a luxury to it.
1019
00:52:52,303 --> 00:52:54,239
*
1020
00:53:04,382 --> 00:53:06,517
The Japan trip was,
1021
00:53:06,617 --> 00:53:09,487
I think, the most luxurious ever
done in fashion.
1022
00:53:09,587 --> 00:53:13,558
( Ingrid )
We were in Japan
for five weeks.
1023
00:53:13,658 --> 00:53:17,462
We were completely left to do
whatever we wanted,
1024
00:53:17,562 --> 00:53:20,731
but we had a synopsis.
1025
00:53:20,831 --> 00:53:24,435
( man )
Mrs. Vreeland says,
"The Tale of Genji,"
1026
00:53:24,535 --> 00:53:30,508
the first novel in the world
written by a woman !
1027
00:53:30,608 --> 00:53:33,378
( Ingrid )
Mrs. Vreeland had the idea
1028
00:53:33,478 --> 00:53:37,715
that we wanted it to be an epic
of a love affair
1029
00:53:37,815 --> 00:53:43,721
between a Caucasian woman
and a Japanese man.
1030
00:53:43,821 --> 00:53:48,826
Dick had the idea to find for me
as a partner in the pictures
1031
00:53:48,926 --> 00:53:51,929
a man taller than me.
1032
00:53:52,029 --> 00:53:55,600
And that was, of course,
right away, we all said,
1033
00:53:55,700 --> 00:53:57,368
"How could that ever happen ?"
1034
00:53:57,468 --> 00:53:59,637
*
1035
00:54:01,906 --> 00:54:05,510
( Ingrid )
Maybe he should be
a sumo wrestler.
1036
00:54:05,610 --> 00:54:10,481
We went to all of the wrestling
matches to find this man,
1037
00:54:10,581 --> 00:54:13,284
which was very difficult.
1038
00:54:13,384 --> 00:54:15,620
And then,
we heard about this man
1039
00:54:15,720 --> 00:54:19,790
and he was seven feet
and some inches.
1040
00:54:26,397 --> 00:54:28,933
( Veruschka )
He was a sumo wrestler
1041
00:54:29,033 --> 00:54:31,602
who was thin and much taller
than me.
1042
00:54:31,702 --> 00:54:36,774
I mean, he was so tall that
he couldn't fit in the car.
1043
00:54:36,874 --> 00:54:38,976
I mean, we had to
take out the front seat,
1044
00:54:39,076 --> 00:54:43,348
so he had to sitting in
the back of the car.
1045
00:54:43,448 --> 00:54:47,385
He had such
a powerful breathing
1046
00:54:47,485 --> 00:54:48,853
that he would take a cigarette.
1047
00:54:52,923 --> 00:54:55,626
It was finished, the cigarette,
and the next one came.
1048
00:54:59,430 --> 00:55:02,066
And we were just looking
at this man.
1049
00:55:02,166 --> 00:55:04,935
We had never seen
anything like that.
1050
00:55:05,035 --> 00:55:08,573
( Ingrid )
And that is the man
you see in the pictures.
1051
00:55:08,673 --> 00:55:10,508
Isn't he wonderful ?
1052
00:55:10,608 --> 00:55:12,443
That's the one thing about
Vreeland,
1053
00:55:12,543 --> 00:55:17,081
is she knew her job as an editor
is you've got to give people
1054
00:55:17,181 --> 00:55:18,949
what they can't get at home,
1055
00:55:19,049 --> 00:55:22,353
you know, give them something
that will just make them
1056
00:55:22,453 --> 00:55:23,954
travel in their minds.
1057
00:55:24,054 --> 00:55:25,823
Take them somewhere.
1058
00:55:25,923 --> 00:55:27,825
( Polly )
"Vogue" was very rich
at the time,
1059
00:55:27,925 --> 00:55:30,561
so they could go to
the Himalayas if they wanted
1060
00:55:30,661 --> 00:55:32,096
and she would be behind them.
1061
00:55:32,196 --> 00:55:33,731
I don't think that
Alexander Liberman,
1062
00:55:33,831 --> 00:55:35,533
her boss and the boss at
"Vogue,"
1063
00:55:35,633 --> 00:55:38,369
was particularly keen
on that sort of expenditure.
1064
00:55:38,469 --> 00:55:42,039
He was holding the reins,
but she could gallop quite fast.
1065
00:55:43,741 --> 00:55:46,877
There was a pride about
being a woman
1066
00:55:46,977 --> 00:55:49,847
of a certain age with knowledge,
1067
00:55:49,947 --> 00:55:53,584
with sexiness, mother,
career woman.
1068
00:55:53,684 --> 00:55:57,354
Not somebody
necessarily born beautiful,
1069
00:55:57,455 --> 00:56:00,858
but somebody who had
something up here.
1070
00:56:00,958 --> 00:56:03,060
Women were
embarrassed about working,
1071
00:56:03,160 --> 00:56:04,662
or it was a sign of poverty,
1072
00:56:04,762 --> 00:56:07,832
she made it something chic
to have somewhere
1073
00:56:07,932 --> 00:56:10,735
to go in the daytime.
1074
00:56:10,835 --> 00:56:13,003
Are you a feminist,
Mrs. V ?
1075
00:56:13,103 --> 00:56:15,406
I don't even know what
you're talking about.
1076
00:56:15,506 --> 00:56:17,742
I really mean that.
Explain that.
1077
00:56:17,842 --> 00:56:20,144
I don't understand what all
this talk is about women
1078
00:56:20,244 --> 00:56:23,080
and being different from
the way they ever were.
1079
00:56:23,180 --> 00:56:26,083
Are they different from
the way they ever were ?
1080
00:56:26,183 --> 00:56:31,388
She was
a self-invention--
1081
00:56:31,489 --> 00:56:33,123
the will, the strength,
1082
00:56:33,223 --> 00:56:37,094
the determination,
the risk-taking.
1083
00:56:37,194 --> 00:56:39,564
She was tough
and she was strong.
1084
00:56:39,664 --> 00:56:40,865
She was a star.
1085
00:56:40,965 --> 00:56:43,801
She was a huge
superstar.
1086
00:56:45,736 --> 00:56:47,738
We found out she hadn't seen
"Chinatown"
1087
00:56:47,838 --> 00:56:51,041
and she was always madly in love
with Jack Nicholson.
1088
00:56:51,141 --> 00:56:53,511
So, we looked in the newspaper
1089
00:56:53,611 --> 00:56:57,548
and it was only playing at
a theatre deep in Harlem.
1090
00:57:00,585 --> 00:57:03,420
So, we go into this
Great Hall Theatre
1091
00:57:03,521 --> 00:57:05,523
and it's packed.
1092
00:57:05,623 --> 00:57:08,759
And, of course, we are the only
Caucasians in the audience
1093
00:57:08,859 --> 00:57:12,196
and we sit down
in the middle of this aisle.
1094
00:57:12,296 --> 00:57:13,631
And...
1095
00:57:15,766 --> 00:57:17,502
... this is so Mrs. Vreeland.
1096
00:57:17,602 --> 00:57:22,172
And Jack comes on the screen
and it's dead quiet.
1097
00:57:22,272 --> 00:57:26,443
Okay, pal,
let's have us a big smile.
1098
00:57:26,544 --> 00:57:29,747
And I will never forget it,
Mrs. Vreeland raised her hand
1099
00:57:29,847 --> 00:57:31,882
with her red fingernails
1100
00:57:31,982 --> 00:57:35,686
and at the top of her lungs
shouted,
1101
00:57:35,786 --> 00:57:39,990
"Isn't Jack attractive ?"
1102
00:57:44,862 --> 00:57:46,564
Did you wear a uniform ?
1103
00:57:48,566 --> 00:57:49,800
Sometimes...
1104
00:57:51,235 --> 00:57:53,704
She met Jack
and because of Jack,
1105
00:57:53,804 --> 00:57:55,072
she met all kinds of
people in Hollywood
1106
00:57:55,172 --> 00:57:57,942
and it was a big enrichment
to her life.
1107
00:57:58,042 --> 00:58:00,711
( Tim )
Warren Beatty would come down in
his little sport car
1108
00:58:00,811 --> 00:58:02,146
and pick her up
1109
00:58:02,246 --> 00:58:04,048
and she would
spend the evening
1110
00:58:04,148 --> 00:58:05,516
with Julie Christie,
Jack Nicholson,
1111
00:58:05,616 --> 00:58:08,786
Anjelica Huston, and Cher.
1112
00:58:08,886 --> 00:58:12,957
They were all great friends...
I think.
1113
00:58:13,057 --> 00:58:17,528
When I first went out
to California, she said,
1114
00:58:17,628 --> 00:58:19,530
"You know, I'd love to
introduce you to
1115
00:58:19,630 --> 00:58:20,898
"people out there,
but all my friends
1116
00:58:20,998 --> 00:58:22,867
are so much younger
than you are."
1117
00:58:22,967 --> 00:58:25,102
And today, you're seen with
Jack Nicholson
1118
00:58:25,202 --> 00:58:26,503
and Warren Beatty.
1119
00:58:26,604 --> 00:58:28,673
What do all these people
have in common ?
1120
00:58:28,773 --> 00:58:31,008
The people I know, I know
through work usually,
1121
00:58:31,108 --> 00:58:33,143
and that's
what's so stimulating.
1122
00:58:33,243 --> 00:58:35,746
That's the best way to know
people, I think.
1123
00:58:35,846 --> 00:58:38,115
Bailey was always
flirting with Vreeland
1124
00:58:38,215 --> 00:58:40,751
and would say the most
outrageous things to her.
1125
00:58:40,851 --> 00:58:43,654
I said, "If you were 20 years
younger, I'd give you one."
1126
00:58:43,754 --> 00:58:46,056
She said, "If I was 20 years
younger, you'd have no choice."
1127
00:58:46,156 --> 00:58:49,960
She would go,
"Mmm, mmm, mmm !"
1128
00:58:50,060 --> 00:58:51,596
She loved that.
1129
00:58:51,696 --> 00:58:53,130
She was becoming a celebrity.
1130
00:58:53,230 --> 00:58:55,866
One was reading about her
all the time.
1131
00:58:55,966 --> 00:59:00,170
She was at The Factory,
she was at Studio 54.
1132
00:59:00,270 --> 00:59:02,773
And this all came
as a great surprise,
1133
00:59:02,873 --> 00:59:06,310
and that, yes, that did
affect me.
1134
00:59:06,410 --> 00:59:09,647
I was rising in
the Foreign Service,
1135
00:59:09,747 --> 00:59:12,783
but I don't think she took
any great interest in it
1136
00:59:12,883 --> 00:59:15,085
and that--
that hurt me somewhat.
1137
00:59:15,185 --> 00:59:17,321
She just didn't have time
1138
00:59:17,421 --> 00:59:18,989
to have conventional anything
left in
1139
00:59:19,089 --> 00:59:21,025
her life at that time.
1140
00:59:21,125 --> 00:59:23,661
( Diana )
You do realize that
from the age of 30,
1141
00:59:23,761 --> 00:59:26,196
I've worked every day
of my life,
1142
00:59:26,296 --> 00:59:28,165
and that goes for
Saturdays and Sundays.
1143
00:59:28,265 --> 00:59:30,968
( George )
Well, I was just going to ask
about your family.
1144
00:59:31,068 --> 00:59:32,870
We've not talked about your
husband,
1145
00:59:32,970 --> 00:59:34,805
we've not really
talked about your children,
1146
00:59:34,905 --> 00:59:38,609
we've not talked about
grief or disasters.
1147
00:59:38,709 --> 00:59:40,678
I don't think
we really want to.
1148
00:59:40,778 --> 00:59:42,179
You know, curiously enough,
1149
00:59:42,279 --> 00:59:43,881
those things haven't
touched me much.
1150
00:59:43,981 --> 00:59:46,183
I don't mean my husband,
that's a different story.
1151
00:59:48,152 --> 00:59:50,821
Reed and I had a great life
together.
1152
00:59:50,921 --> 00:59:55,059
He had fantastic glamour for
me and he always retained it.
1153
00:59:55,159 --> 00:59:59,229
Isn't it curious that even after
more than 40 years of marriage,
1154
00:59:59,329 --> 01:00:02,833
I was always
slightly shy of him ?
1155
01:00:02,933 --> 01:00:04,268
What do you mean ?
1156
01:00:04,368 --> 01:00:05,836
Well, don't you
think all women
1157
01:00:05,936 --> 01:00:08,806
are slightly
shy of all men ?
1158
01:00:08,906 --> 01:00:11,141
But your
husband of 46 years,
1159
01:00:11,241 --> 01:00:13,944
you always remained
slightly shy.
1160
01:00:14,044 --> 01:00:16,380
Of course.
1161
01:00:16,480 --> 01:00:18,716
I wouldn't have suspected
that of you.
1162
01:00:18,816 --> 01:00:21,251
But you're not
supposed to suspect.
1163
01:00:21,351 --> 01:00:23,854
( Diana )
I can remember his coming home
in the evening.
1164
01:00:23,954 --> 01:00:26,957
If I was in my bath
or in my bedroom making up,
1165
01:00:27,057 --> 01:00:30,861
I can remember always pulling
myself up, thinking,
1166
01:00:30,961 --> 01:00:34,398
"I must be at my very best."
1167
01:00:34,498 --> 01:00:39,103
( Frecky )
Think of it as a male dancer
in a classical ballet.
1168
01:00:39,203 --> 01:00:44,341
He gave support to her,
he's there to make sure that
1169
01:00:44,441 --> 01:00:47,978
if she jumps in the air he has--
he catches her.
1170
01:00:49,479 --> 01:00:51,849
But then he got sick.
1171
01:00:51,949 --> 01:00:54,284
Naturally, we didn't
discuss it.
1172
01:00:54,384 --> 01:00:57,387
Why would
we discuss cancer ?
1173
01:00:57,487 --> 01:00:59,189
When he was ill, it was
very difficult
1174
01:00:59,289 --> 01:01:02,259
because she wasn't really
admitting that he was ill.
1175
01:01:02,359 --> 01:01:04,895
And...
1176
01:01:04,995 --> 01:01:08,132
So it was very, very hard for
anybody,
1177
01:01:08,232 --> 01:01:09,399
I think,
to help her, at the time.
1178
01:01:09,499 --> 01:01:12,136
I saw a totally unemotional
person.
1179
01:01:14,939 --> 01:01:21,311
That's when you-- when you
never express any negatives.
1180
01:01:21,411 --> 01:01:25,750
You also never get too
emotion...
1181
01:01:25,850 --> 01:01:29,086
*
1182
01:01:38,128 --> 01:01:41,198
After the funeral service,
there was this lunch
1183
01:01:41,298 --> 01:01:45,302
at our home at 550 Park Avenue
1184
01:01:45,402 --> 01:01:51,108
and she wore white,
which was a statement.
1185
01:01:51,208 --> 01:01:53,110
*
1186
01:01:58,182 --> 01:01:59,850
She's marvelous.
1187
01:01:59,950 --> 01:02:00,818
( all )
She's divine.
1188
01:02:08,492 --> 01:02:13,063
She then totally immersed
herself in her work.
1189
01:02:15,199 --> 01:02:17,001
( Hubert )
Nothing stopped her.
1190
01:02:17,101 --> 01:02:20,404
She went a hundred miles
an hour.
1191
01:02:20,504 --> 01:02:22,406
She was fearless.
1192
01:02:22,506 --> 01:02:25,042
She followed her heart.
1193
01:02:27,577 --> 01:02:29,479
( Reinaldo )
She was of
the era of elegance.
1194
01:02:29,579 --> 01:02:32,382
She was of the era of
imagination,
1195
01:02:32,482 --> 01:02:34,919
and of great expense.
1196
01:02:35,019 --> 01:02:37,321
She was the most
expensive thing,
1197
01:02:37,421 --> 01:02:38,522
I think, that the new houses
ever had.
1198
01:02:38,622 --> 01:02:40,958
I mean, she cost
a fortune, you know.
1199
01:02:41,058 --> 01:02:45,996
It didn't matter to have
500 orchid plants shipped to--
1200
01:02:46,096 --> 01:02:47,932
to Alaska for a shoot.
1201
01:02:48,032 --> 01:02:50,134
You know, that was
perfectly normal for her.
1202
01:02:50,234 --> 01:02:53,871
You could tell that she was
often sailing
1203
01:02:53,971 --> 01:02:55,505
very, very close to the edge.
1204
01:02:57,541 --> 01:03:00,878
Sometimes, what Diana did
didn't please
1205
01:03:00,978 --> 01:03:02,046
all the advertisers.
1206
01:03:06,416 --> 01:03:09,019
The magazine
had hit a plateau,
1207
01:03:09,119 --> 01:03:11,288
people were complaining
too much.
1208
01:03:11,388 --> 01:03:14,358
And there were only
two people to blame.
1209
01:03:14,458 --> 01:03:17,895
There was Alex and there
was Diana.
1210
01:03:17,995 --> 01:03:20,898
Somebody had to go.
1211
01:03:20,998 --> 01:03:23,500
You were canned
from your editing job.
1212
01:03:23,600 --> 01:03:26,036
( Diana )
That's right.
1213
01:03:26,136 --> 01:03:27,804
And why was that,
by the way ?
1214
01:03:27,905 --> 01:03:30,807
Because they wanted a
different sort of magazine.
1215
01:03:30,908 --> 01:03:36,046
When Vreeland was asked to leave
"Vogue," she was--
1216
01:03:36,146 --> 01:03:39,083
I think she was angry that
Liberman didn't do it himself.
1217
01:03:39,183 --> 01:03:41,952
She said,
"So, I sent for Alex."
1218
01:03:42,052 --> 01:03:43,921
And he came up, she said,
1219
01:03:44,021 --> 01:03:45,589
and he's standing there in
profile, she says,
1220
01:03:45,689 --> 01:03:47,925
"Alex, I've looked
at your profile for ten years;
1221
01:03:48,025 --> 01:03:51,295
for once look me in the eye
and tell me I'm fired."
1222
01:03:51,395 --> 01:03:53,463
She said, "He wouldn't
look me in the eye."
1223
01:03:53,563 --> 01:03:56,533
And I said, "Alex,
I've met red Russians,
1224
01:03:56,633 --> 01:03:58,602
"I've met white Russians,
1225
01:03:58,702 --> 01:04:02,339
but you're the first
yellow Russian I've ever met."
1226
01:04:02,439 --> 01:04:03,573
And that was the end.
1227
01:04:06,076 --> 01:04:09,346
Everything changed--
the music changed.
1228
01:04:09,446 --> 01:04:12,282
The atmosphere changed,
the pictures changed.
1229
01:04:12,382 --> 01:04:14,484
That was the end of an era.
1230
01:04:17,054 --> 01:04:20,457
( Frecky )
Mom went into
a sort of collapse.
1231
01:04:20,557 --> 01:04:23,093
She was feeling
very, very sorry for herself.
1232
01:04:23,193 --> 01:04:28,032
In effect, her life had become
conventional, and she--
1233
01:04:28,132 --> 01:04:29,466
it was unbearable to her
1234
01:04:29,566 --> 01:04:32,102
that she didn't have some
intense thing
1235
01:04:32,202 --> 01:04:33,971
that she was doing.
1236
01:04:34,071 --> 01:04:39,143
She was out of work and nobody
really knew what she could do
1237
01:04:39,243 --> 01:04:42,646
after "Vogue" because that
was such a hard act to follow.
1238
01:04:42,746 --> 01:04:47,317
The person I saw that day was
not the autocratic,
1239
01:04:47,417 --> 01:04:51,221
sure-of-herself star.
1240
01:04:51,321 --> 01:04:53,323
I could see there was
some brokenness.
1241
01:04:53,423 --> 01:04:55,492
*
1242
01:04:57,694 --> 01:05:00,397
( man on radio )
Turn back, turn back ?
1243
01:05:00,497 --> 01:05:02,967
Should we turn back ?
1244
01:05:03,067 --> 01:05:06,036
The weather behind is
as bad as the weather in front.
1245
01:05:06,136 --> 01:05:08,538
Lindbergh goes on.
1246
01:05:08,638 --> 01:05:11,275
( Diana )
I was only 70--
What was I supposed to do ?
1247
01:05:11,375 --> 01:05:13,177
Retire ?
1248
01:05:13,277 --> 01:05:16,313
And then one day I got
a call from
1249
01:05:16,413 --> 01:05:17,314
the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
1250
01:05:20,350 --> 01:05:24,221
( Oscar )
Tom Hoving was then Director
of the Metropolitan Museum.
1251
01:05:24,321 --> 01:05:28,092
He said we would love to have
Diana as a Special Consultant,
1252
01:05:28,192 --> 01:05:30,494
but we don't really have
the funds.
1253
01:05:30,594 --> 01:05:33,430
( Bob )
Francoise de la Renta,
who was a real organizer,
1254
01:05:33,530 --> 01:05:35,265
got on the phone to all the
ladies and said,
1255
01:05:35,365 --> 01:05:37,134
"We've got to help Diana.
1256
01:05:37,234 --> 01:05:39,169
She should be taking over
the Met."
1257
01:05:39,269 --> 01:05:40,704
And so they all said
that they would give money
1258
01:05:40,804 --> 01:05:42,572
to the Costume Institute.
1259
01:05:42,672 --> 01:05:46,243
You continue to amaze people
by the fact that you keep going
1260
01:05:46,343 --> 01:05:49,213
and anything that knocks
you down,
1261
01:05:49,313 --> 01:05:51,081
you rise again
and start over--
1262
01:05:51,181 --> 01:05:54,118
uh, do you have any personal
philosophy ?
I don't start over.
1263
01:05:54,218 --> 01:05:56,320
You see, I just go on
from one thing to another.
1264
01:05:56,420 --> 01:05:58,655
They're all really
the same.
1265
01:05:58,755 --> 01:06:00,290
You could easily
have said,
1266
01:06:00,390 --> 01:06:01,658
"Well, that's it,
I've done enough."
1267
01:06:01,758 --> 01:06:03,027
But, you took over this
Costume Institute
1268
01:06:03,127 --> 01:06:04,461
at the Met,
put it on the map.
1269
01:06:04,561 --> 01:06:07,364
( man )
At the time,
the Costume Institute
1270
01:06:07,464 --> 01:06:09,233
was a rather sleepy place.
1271
01:06:09,333 --> 01:06:12,202
It was all about the costume,
the conservation,
1272
01:06:12,302 --> 01:06:17,507
publishing them, studying them,
thread-by-thread, whatever.
1273
01:06:17,607 --> 01:06:19,343
And what did she want to do ?
1274
01:06:19,443 --> 01:06:23,147
She wanted to get them out of
those shelves, onto dummies,
1275
01:06:23,247 --> 01:06:27,451
bring in the people, show them,
get the excitement going.
1276
01:06:29,453 --> 01:06:32,156
( Diana )
George, I was so excited.
1277
01:06:32,256 --> 01:06:33,157
Back in business !
1278
01:06:35,059 --> 01:06:38,195
I could show everything
I have loved all my life.
1279
01:06:39,529 --> 01:06:42,366
I started with Balenciaga.
1280
01:06:42,466 --> 01:06:44,334
His clothes were
devastating.
1281
01:06:44,434 --> 01:06:48,138
One fainted--
One just blew up and died.
1282
01:06:48,238 --> 01:06:50,307
*
1283
01:06:50,407 --> 01:06:53,677
The exhibition went on for
six months
1284
01:06:53,777 --> 01:06:55,545
and there were one every year.
1285
01:07:00,284 --> 01:07:02,119
( Nicky )
It was greater than a magazine.
1286
01:07:02,219 --> 01:07:06,390
It was a magazine that was alive
and three-dimensional.
1287
01:07:06,490 --> 01:07:08,592
( Alexander )
They had music,
they had artwork.
1288
01:07:08,692 --> 01:07:11,095
They had these huge horses
in the middle of the exhibit.
1289
01:07:11,195 --> 01:07:13,297
I mean, there was always
vitality.
1290
01:07:13,397 --> 01:07:16,133
( Harold )
She painted all the walls
these glossy colors.
1291
01:07:16,233 --> 01:07:18,702
She painted the mannequins,
and she pumped in,
1292
01:07:18,802 --> 01:07:21,771
through the air-conditioning
vents, fragrance.
1293
01:07:21,871 --> 01:07:27,477
What this did for the critics
was evoke Bloomingdale's.
1294
01:07:27,577 --> 01:07:30,414
What it did for
most of the public
1295
01:07:30,514 --> 01:07:35,419
was it created a kind of
freshness to the past.
1296
01:07:35,519 --> 01:07:37,754
*
1297
01:07:37,854 --> 01:07:39,356
Everything changed.
1298
01:07:39,456 --> 01:07:42,126
And, suddenly,
it became an event.
1299
01:07:42,226 --> 01:07:43,093
It became--
1300
01:07:44,461 --> 01:07:48,165
The show was a very big deal.
1301
01:07:48,265 --> 01:07:49,466
And it was a great success.
1302
01:07:49,566 --> 01:07:50,767
Lines, I remember !
1303
01:07:50,867 --> 01:07:52,469
For the Russian exhibition,
I went to it,
1304
01:07:52,569 --> 01:07:53,837
André got us
tickets or whatever,
1305
01:07:53,937 --> 01:07:55,672
I went five times
anyway, so.
1306
01:07:55,772 --> 01:07:57,241
You couldn't get into it.
1307
01:07:57,341 --> 01:07:59,476
The lines were around the block,
it was amazing.
1308
01:07:59,576 --> 01:08:03,213
And she wanted everybody
to understand her shows.
1309
01:08:03,313 --> 01:08:06,150
She used to say if an
eight-year-old girl from Harlem
1310
01:08:06,250 --> 01:08:08,752
doesn't understand
1311
01:08:08,852 --> 01:08:11,521
what she's looking at,
then I'm wasting my time.
1312
01:08:11,621 --> 01:08:15,292
It sounds a bit un-PC--
that girl was important to her.
1313
01:08:15,392 --> 01:08:16,693
That was just as important
to her
1314
01:08:16,793 --> 01:08:18,595
as having
Pat Buckley and Nan Kempner
1315
01:08:18,695 --> 01:08:20,130
jumping up and down.
1316
01:08:20,230 --> 01:08:21,798
She wanted everybody
to jump up and down.
1317
01:08:21,898 --> 01:08:24,434
And then, of course,
it made the opening night
1318
01:08:24,534 --> 01:08:30,440
of that a celebrity, social,
you know, event.
1319
01:08:30,540 --> 01:08:32,276
*
1320
01:08:37,214 --> 01:08:40,217
And the first party
was a huge success.
1321
01:08:40,317 --> 01:08:42,252
People came
from all over the world.
1322
01:08:45,622 --> 01:08:50,494
This was really the party of the
year, but all due to Diana
1323
01:08:50,594 --> 01:08:54,531
because she knew
how to mix the people.
1324
01:08:54,631 --> 01:08:58,134
( Philippe )
Well, the party of the year
was resented
1325
01:08:58,235 --> 01:09:00,237
by a lot of the curators
and the staff of the Met.
1326
01:09:00,337 --> 01:09:02,806
When you see your porcelain
start to walk on a shelf
1327
01:09:02,906 --> 01:09:06,210
because of the deep
basses of the rock bands...
1328
01:09:06,310 --> 01:09:09,613
And we said, "What is this,
a museum or a nightclub ?"
1329
01:09:09,713 --> 01:09:11,748
I mean, make up your mind.
1330
01:09:11,848 --> 01:09:14,584
( Frecky )
When Philippe de Montebello
took over,
1331
01:09:14,684 --> 01:09:19,723
he very ostentatiously said,
"And now, Madame Vreeland,
1332
01:09:19,823 --> 01:09:23,893
"tell me what
are your diplomas
1333
01:09:23,993 --> 01:09:26,530
and preparation for being..."
1334
01:09:26,630 --> 01:09:31,568
And she sat absolutely
quietly for a count of 60,
1335
01:09:31,668 --> 01:09:35,171
and then she got up and she
looked at him and she said,
1336
01:09:35,272 --> 01:09:37,241
"You know perfectly well
1337
01:09:37,341 --> 01:09:42,446
"that I have had no education
whatsoever,
1338
01:09:42,546 --> 01:09:46,550
"that I am here,
I've done one thing,
1339
01:09:46,650 --> 01:09:51,588
and that is bring in the people
to the museum."
1340
01:09:51,688 --> 01:09:54,691
( man )
Well, I think that she was
not academic in any respect.
1341
01:09:54,791 --> 01:09:56,426
And that's what-- that's what
was so interesting about her
1342
01:09:56,526 --> 01:09:57,827
approach to fashion.
1343
01:09:57,927 --> 01:10:00,564
She knew the history of fashion,
1344
01:10:00,664 --> 01:10:02,232
but she didn't
get bogged down in it.
1345
01:10:02,332 --> 01:10:06,670
And she was about ideas
and about the magic of fashion.
1346
01:10:06,770 --> 01:10:10,607
( Katell )
Diana, forever, was an editor.
1347
01:10:10,707 --> 01:10:12,276
She had a vision.
1348
01:10:12,376 --> 01:10:14,611
She will say of 18th-century
woman, she will say,
1349
01:10:14,711 --> 01:10:18,715
"Oh, that won-der-full
Marie Antoinette,
1350
01:10:18,815 --> 01:10:20,317
"that poor Queen.
1351
01:10:20,417 --> 01:10:23,219
That wonderful French way."
1352
01:10:23,320 --> 01:10:24,854
Everything French was fine,
you know.
1353
01:10:24,954 --> 01:10:26,856
"The minuette, the beauty !"
1354
01:10:26,956 --> 01:10:28,358
*
1355
01:10:34,498 --> 01:10:36,600
I'm Marisa Berenson.
1356
01:10:36,700 --> 01:10:39,269
I'd like to welcome you
to the 18th Century.
1357
01:10:39,369 --> 01:10:41,805
The Met is busy gathering
together for the first time
1358
01:10:41,905 --> 01:10:43,473
the greatest collection of
costumes, jewelry,
1359
01:10:43,573 --> 01:10:45,509
and accessories.
1360
01:10:45,609 --> 01:10:49,479
Please, don't stand there !
( woman )
All right, thank you.
1361
01:10:49,579 --> 01:10:51,781
( Simon )
I think the conservation people
had heart attacks
1362
01:10:51,881 --> 01:10:54,351
when they saw her
going into the archive.
1363
01:10:54,451 --> 01:10:56,653
She would grab things and whack
the back of them.
1364
01:10:56,753 --> 01:10:58,755
( woman )
How 'bout this color ?
1365
01:10:58,855 --> 01:11:01,891
Now, are we waiting for
something ?
( man )
The lavender feather.
1366
01:11:01,991 --> 01:11:03,460
( man )
It was like asking
a football player
1367
01:11:03,560 --> 01:11:05,028
to stylize the mannequin,
1368
01:11:05,128 --> 01:11:07,297
but she always
had a concept.
1369
01:11:07,397 --> 01:11:09,599
They're all fighting with
each other,
1370
01:11:09,699 --> 01:11:11,401
they're all flirting
with each other.
1371
01:11:11,501 --> 01:11:14,270
There's a story of who was
having an affair with who,
1372
01:11:14,371 --> 01:11:15,472
and she would say,
1373
01:11:15,572 --> 01:11:16,806
"If they're not
having any fun,
1374
01:11:16,906 --> 01:11:19,275
how can the visitors have
any fun ?"
1375
01:11:19,376 --> 01:11:22,011
( Harold )
I don't think she had the
average person's relationship
1376
01:11:22,111 --> 01:11:23,680
to the English language.
1377
01:11:23,780 --> 01:11:27,551
She would give you these
oblique haiku things
1378
01:11:27,651 --> 01:11:29,719
that gave you a sense
of where she was headed
1379
01:11:29,819 --> 01:11:31,588
or where her idea was.
1380
01:11:31,688 --> 01:11:35,024
My favorite was when I was
called in to make a wig for her.
1381
01:11:35,124 --> 01:11:38,895
She had this idea of a hairdo
which had a frigate in it.
1382
01:11:38,995 --> 01:11:41,465
She said, "You know, Harold,
1383
01:11:41,565 --> 01:11:44,401
the 18th century is all about
proportion."
1384
01:11:44,501 --> 01:11:46,002
So, I measured the dress.
1385
01:11:46,102 --> 01:11:47,837
I found portraits
from the period.
1386
01:11:47,937 --> 01:11:49,439
People would come into my loft
and they would say,
1387
01:11:49,539 --> 01:11:50,940
"What is that ?"
1388
01:11:51,040 --> 01:11:52,609
And I would say,
"Oh, it's an 18th-century wig."
1389
01:11:52,709 --> 01:11:54,411
They say, "It is ?"
1390
01:11:54,511 --> 01:11:56,346
I brought it to the Met in
a Checker Cab,
1391
01:11:56,446 --> 01:11:57,681
nothing else would fit.
1392
01:11:57,781 --> 01:11:59,749
As soon as I took
the garbage bag off,
1393
01:11:59,849 --> 01:12:01,651
I knew
she was disappointed.
1394
01:12:01,751 --> 01:12:03,553
She went, "Hmmmm."
1395
01:12:03,653 --> 01:12:06,823
It was accurate, and that's not
what Mrs. Vreeland wanted.
1396
01:12:06,923 --> 01:12:12,596
What she wanted was the surprise
of this grotesquely huge hairdo.
1397
01:12:12,696 --> 01:12:14,964
I began to create a new hairdo,
1398
01:12:15,064 --> 01:12:19,102
which was based on
the height of the ceiling.
1399
01:12:19,202 --> 01:12:20,837
She came back and she said,
1400
01:12:20,937 --> 01:12:23,707
"Mmm, now she can go
to the guillotine !"
1401
01:12:29,012 --> 01:12:32,982
( Diana )
"Romantic and Glamorous
Hollywood Design."
1402
01:12:33,082 --> 01:12:34,418
This killed Tom Hoving,
1403
01:12:34,518 --> 01:12:35,852
the director of the
Metropolitan.
1404
01:12:35,952 --> 01:12:36,886
It killed him !
1405
01:12:36,986 --> 01:12:38,388
He's on the floor.
1406
01:12:38,488 --> 01:12:39,956
And he said,
"In the name of God,
1407
01:12:40,056 --> 01:12:42,058
"why do we have to drag
Hollywood
1408
01:12:42,158 --> 01:12:45,128
into the Metropolitan
Museum of Art ?"
1409
01:12:45,228 --> 01:12:47,030
( woman )
For the first time,
1410
01:12:47,130 --> 01:12:48,064
the Metropolitan Museum of Art
in New York
1411
01:12:48,164 --> 01:12:50,667
is honoring a living designer.
1412
01:12:50,767 --> 01:12:54,471
( Diana )
George, the controversy,
the outrage over nothing.
1413
01:12:54,571 --> 01:12:57,941
A living designer,
with a store down the street.
1414
01:12:58,041 --> 01:13:01,645
"You're promoting his business
with a show in the museum."
1415
01:13:01,745 --> 01:13:02,912
She answered...
1416
01:13:03,012 --> 01:13:05,515
"I'm not talking about
money...
1417
01:13:05,615 --> 01:13:07,383
I'm talking about art."
1418
01:13:07,484 --> 01:13:09,018
( woman )
Is it art ?
1419
01:13:09,118 --> 01:13:13,490
There is great art in what he
does-- used as a verb, yes.
1420
01:13:15,224 --> 01:13:17,894
If that is a verb, I don't
know enough about grammar.
1421
01:13:20,897 --> 01:13:23,467
It was the first show
she dare.
1422
01:13:26,936 --> 01:13:29,138
( Philippe )
The field was entirely
transformed
1423
01:13:29,238 --> 01:13:30,674
because from then on,
1424
01:13:30,774 --> 01:13:32,842
all other museums with
great collections,
1425
01:13:32,942 --> 01:13:36,045
seeing how popular and how
successful were costume shows,
1426
01:13:36,145 --> 01:13:39,483
began to mount
great exhibitions of their own.
1427
01:13:39,583 --> 01:13:41,885
( man )
She didn't
have a college education.
1428
01:13:41,985 --> 01:13:46,856
She learnt history,
art, literature.
1429
01:13:46,956 --> 01:13:49,793
She learnt
civilization through fashion
1430
01:13:49,893 --> 01:13:51,861
and she wanted to share it.
1431
01:13:51,961 --> 01:13:54,664
( man )
Fashion is not
just clothes, is it ?
1432
01:13:54,764 --> 01:13:56,800
( Diana )
No, it isn't.
1433
01:13:56,900 --> 01:14:01,070
It's part of the daily air
and it changes all the time,
1434
01:14:01,170 --> 01:14:02,572
with all the events.
1435
01:14:02,672 --> 01:14:05,074
You can even see
the approaching of...
1436
01:14:07,811 --> 01:14:09,513
... a revolution in clothes.
1437
01:14:09,613 --> 01:14:12,982
You can see and feel
everything in clothes.
1438
01:14:15,118 --> 01:14:18,121
( Diana )
Of course, now that I work
at the museum,
1439
01:14:18,221 --> 01:14:21,124
I'm only delving into my past.
1440
01:14:21,224 --> 01:14:24,494
You've lived through so many
eras of fashion.
1441
01:14:24,594 --> 01:14:26,062
Do you have a favorite ?
1442
01:14:26,162 --> 01:14:28,097
I think the '20s
were superb.
1443
01:14:28,197 --> 01:14:29,799
Of course, it was terribly
exciting to me
1444
01:14:29,899 --> 01:14:31,601
because I had just
started to wear clothes.
1445
01:14:31,701 --> 01:14:34,804
I was just starting to
live in Europe
1446
01:14:34,904 --> 01:14:36,039
and I thought that
the whole revolution--
1447
01:14:36,139 --> 01:14:38,908
There has never been a woman
without a back
1448
01:14:39,008 --> 01:14:40,577
in her dress in history.
1449
01:14:40,677 --> 01:14:42,579
There's never been a woman
with her clothes chopped off
1450
01:14:42,679 --> 01:14:44,480
at the knee in history.
1451
01:14:44,581 --> 01:14:47,617
( Bob )
She was educating us about
periods in history that,
1452
01:14:47,717 --> 01:14:49,118
you know, came before our time:
1453
01:14:49,218 --> 01:14:51,988
the 1920s, the 1930s,
the '40s, the '50s.
1454
01:14:52,088 --> 01:14:55,559
I mean, she kind of knew it all.
1455
01:14:55,659 --> 01:14:58,962
( woman )
I loved to get her on a riff
about something
1456
01:14:59,062 --> 01:15:00,196
that appealed to her,
1457
01:15:00,296 --> 01:15:02,966
and above all,
the Diaghilev era.
1458
01:15:03,066 --> 01:15:06,169
( woman )
We'd go back into her office
and she would tell me the story
1459
01:15:06,269 --> 01:15:10,740
of when she saw Nijinsky
dance The Spectre of the Rose.
1460
01:15:10,840 --> 01:15:13,843
And the-- you know, I even get
a chill now talking about it.
1461
01:15:13,943 --> 01:15:17,747
The description of the stage
and the window blowing open
1462
01:15:17,847 --> 01:15:20,083
and Nijinsky
flying through the room.
1463
01:15:22,886 --> 01:15:24,153
( Diana )
He didn't leap up.
1464
01:15:24,253 --> 01:15:29,893
He leaped across the stage
to the far end.
1465
01:15:29,993 --> 01:15:32,128
We knew it was amazing
1466
01:15:32,228 --> 01:15:35,665
because it was so amazing
that it appeared amazing.
1467
01:15:35,765 --> 01:15:39,769
Not all things that are amazing
appear, perhaps, you know ?
1468
01:15:43,773 --> 01:15:48,044
( Diana )
The Belle Époque,
the era in which I was born,
1469
01:15:48,144 --> 01:15:51,881
the last era of absolute luxury.
1470
01:15:53,717 --> 01:15:54,951
Ah !
1471
01:15:55,051 --> 01:15:57,286
The Bois du Boulogne of my
childhood,
1472
01:15:57,386 --> 01:16:02,258
the demimondaines
with their hats and parasols.
1473
01:16:02,358 --> 01:16:06,896
I was young, but I remember the
most wonderful excitement
1474
01:16:06,996 --> 01:16:08,197
all the time.
1475
01:16:10,667 --> 01:16:13,837
And, there was a great deal of,
I suppose,
1476
01:16:13,937 --> 01:16:15,739
what we call decadence,
1477
01:16:15,839 --> 01:16:17,641
but, of course,
I didn't see any of that.
1478
01:16:17,741 --> 01:16:20,844
I only saw the horses.
1479
01:16:20,944 --> 01:16:23,813
( woman )
Mrs. Vreeland
had her own view of history.
1480
01:16:23,913 --> 01:16:30,086
She would pick up certain
characteristics of an era
1481
01:16:30,186 --> 01:16:33,823
and perhaps magnify it too much.
1482
01:16:33,923 --> 01:16:36,860
( Harold )
There were these kinds of
moments where perhaps
1483
01:16:36,960 --> 01:16:42,098
she was not representing
the historic truth.
1484
01:16:42,198 --> 01:16:44,934
But, in a strange way,
for example
1485
01:16:45,034 --> 01:16:46,169
with the 18th-century headdress,
1486
01:16:46,269 --> 01:16:48,972
she was capturing
the real truth,
1487
01:16:49,072 --> 01:16:50,974
which is
the integrity of the idea,
1488
01:16:51,074 --> 01:16:55,378
that the idea is something that
is bigger than the actual facts
1489
01:16:55,478 --> 01:16:57,747
and it just sort of
breaks through the facts.
1490
01:16:57,847 --> 01:17:00,349
Fantasy sometimes is applied to
Mrs. Vreeland
1491
01:17:00,449 --> 01:17:02,886
in a derogatory sense,
1492
01:17:02,986 --> 01:17:06,723
that the fantasy eclipses
the reality,
1493
01:17:06,823 --> 01:17:09,859
the authority, the academic,
1494
01:17:09,959 --> 01:17:12,228
and I think it's a skew
that is wrong.
1495
01:17:12,328 --> 01:17:14,931
I think the fantasy for
Mrs. Vreeland was like a pulse.
1496
01:17:15,031 --> 01:17:18,101
When she felt the pulse, it--
it kept,
1497
01:17:18,201 --> 01:17:20,636
it kept everything
alive for her.
1498
01:17:20,737 --> 01:17:22,338
( Reinaldo )
She was a great inventor.
1499
01:17:22,438 --> 01:17:25,675
There was something rather
charming about that.
1500
01:17:25,775 --> 01:17:30,780
And she didn't pretend
that she was not inventing.
1501
01:17:30,880 --> 01:17:32,315
It just turned out that it was
a better story
1502
01:17:32,415 --> 01:17:34,150
than the other one.
1503
01:17:34,250 --> 01:17:37,220
How could Diana Vreeland write
that she saw
1504
01:17:37,320 --> 01:17:40,656
Lindbergh
flying over Brewster ?
1505
01:17:40,757 --> 01:17:43,259
That wasn't even his route.
1506
01:17:43,359 --> 01:17:47,663
Uh, well, Diana,
is that fact or is it fiction ?
1507
01:17:47,764 --> 01:17:50,867
And she said, "Faction."
1508
01:17:50,967 --> 01:17:54,437
And, uh, that's pretty much
where it is.
1509
01:17:54,537 --> 01:17:56,906
Because, there are
various stories
1510
01:17:57,006 --> 01:17:59,876
which are historically not true,
1511
01:17:59,976 --> 01:18:04,781
but in her mind,
that's the way life should be.
1512
01:18:04,881 --> 01:18:07,851
( Simon )
I remember her saying
that she'd never been to India
1513
01:18:07,951 --> 01:18:09,953
and had no real intention
of going,
1514
01:18:10,053 --> 01:18:13,990
because if she went, it wouldn't
match the vision in her head.
1515
01:18:14,090 --> 01:18:16,692
And I think it was
the same with Russia, too.
1516
01:18:16,793 --> 01:18:18,327
Maybe she had been to Russia.
1517
01:18:18,427 --> 01:18:23,066
I really wouldn't know anything
about Russians.
1518
01:18:23,166 --> 01:18:25,802
What I love is Russia.
1519
01:18:25,902 --> 01:18:27,971
It was all storytelling
1520
01:18:28,071 --> 01:18:30,940
and I think that's where
she and I met,
1521
01:18:31,040 --> 01:18:33,943
is that we both
liked to tell stories.
1522
01:18:34,043 --> 01:18:36,913
Her vision of the way
the world could be,
1523
01:18:38,281 --> 01:18:41,951
of the way it
possibly should be,
1524
01:18:42,051 --> 01:18:43,286
of when it's at its best,
1525
01:18:43,386 --> 01:18:45,721
of when a woman is at her
most beautiful.
1526
01:18:53,229 --> 01:18:55,799
( Diana )
I believe in the dream.
1527
01:18:55,899 --> 01:19:01,237
I think we only live through our
dreams and our imagination.
1528
01:19:01,337 --> 01:19:04,440
That's the only reality
we really ever know.
1529
01:19:06,876 --> 01:19:11,314
You know, I can't stand seeing
shows being taken down.
1530
01:19:11,414 --> 01:19:13,950
They have to
do it when I'm gone.
1531
01:19:14,050 --> 01:19:19,088
You know, I get very, very
attached to Josephine Baker
1532
01:19:19,188 --> 01:19:21,424
and to the Princess Murat
1533
01:19:21,524 --> 01:19:24,460
walking in
the Bois with her boyfriends.
1534
01:19:24,560 --> 01:19:27,363
I find them very
attractive women.
1535
01:19:30,233 --> 01:19:32,335
But you know, George,
1536
01:19:32,435 --> 01:19:34,270
you have to let go
at some point.
1537
01:19:34,370 --> 01:19:37,140
I'm not creeping around.
1538
01:19:37,240 --> 01:19:42,345
I once heard someone say,
"I shall die very young."
1539
01:19:42,445 --> 01:19:44,814
"How young ?"
I don't know.
1540
01:19:44,914 --> 01:19:48,885
Maybe 70,
maybe 80, maybe 90.
1541
01:19:48,985 --> 01:19:51,821
But I shall be very young.
1542
01:20:04,300 --> 01:20:09,305
( George )
It was my privilege to help
Diana Vreeland with her memoirs,
1543
01:20:09,405 --> 01:20:11,941
a book called, "D.V."
1544
01:20:12,041 --> 01:20:18,014
One night,
Diana Vreeland told me this...
1545
01:20:18,114 --> 01:20:20,583
"Oh, I am mad about
armor.
1546
01:20:20,683 --> 01:20:22,852
"Mad about it.
1547
01:20:22,952 --> 01:20:24,820
"I love the way it's put
together.
1548
01:20:24,921 --> 01:20:27,256
"I love the helmets with
the feathers out the back.
1549
01:20:27,356 --> 01:20:29,325
"Milanese, you see.
1550
01:20:29,425 --> 01:20:31,460
"Have you ever seen
a Tilting Green ?
1551
01:20:31,560 --> 01:20:33,863
"It's the most beautiful thing
I ever saw.
1552
01:20:33,963 --> 01:20:35,899
"There are great banks
that rise up on either side
1553
01:20:35,999 --> 01:20:38,167
"like giant steps terraced
in grass--
1554
01:20:38,267 --> 01:20:41,604
"grass, grass, green grass,
with the knights in armor,
1555
01:20:41,704 --> 01:20:44,908
"banners,
and these great horses.
1556
01:20:45,008 --> 01:20:47,610
"You can say, 'Well, give me
a good game of football.'
1557
01:20:47,710 --> 01:20:48,912
"But, that must have been
the most beautiful contest
1558
01:20:49,012 --> 01:20:50,914
"to see in the world.
1559
01:20:51,014 --> 01:20:53,950
"You can't imagine it until
you've seen a Tilting Green,
1560
01:20:54,050 --> 01:20:58,988
all green, green,
green right to the sky."
1561
01:20:59,088 --> 01:21:01,891
I like to think that's where
Diana is at this moment.
1562
01:21:03,526 --> 01:21:07,030
*
1563
01:24:30,133 --> 01:24:33,102
*
114711
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