Original subtitles

We all crave good quality fresh food.

We want to know where it comes from

and how it's produced.

Urban food markets,

the bellies of our cities,

sell fresh, seasonal produce

brought to the market each day

with no fancy packaging.

What you see is what you get.

(bright music)

(speaking in foreign language)

Our series explores the big bellies

of Freiburg in Germany,

Florence in Italy,

the Latvian capital Riga,

Toulouse in France

and the Croatian capital Zagreb.

The markets are a melting pot

of unique regional flavors,

a bridge between town and country.

(bright music)

The Croatian capital Zagreb

straddles the political and cultural fault line

dividing east and west Europe.

Its great boulevards and magnificent architecture

date from the Austrohungarian empire.

The city goes back to ancient Roman times.

After the collapse of the former Yugoslavia,

Zagreb is enjoying a cultural renaissance

spurred by Croatia's entry into the EU.

To visit the city

is to plunge into a rich, vibrant, restless melting pot

of different cultures and traditions

and there's one place you can taste it all,

the Dolac Market.

The market occupies a large square

just a stone's throw from the city's

impressive gothic cathedral.

(speaking in foreign language)

Madam, would you like some apples?

For hundreds of years,

the market has been run by women stall holders

called kunitsa.

There's even a bronze statue

honoring them and their determination

to keep Zagreb supplied

through the most challenging times.

The kunitsa live up to 50 kilometers from the city

but every day they bring their homegrown

seasonal fruit and vegetables

to sell in the square.

Some come from the Zagorje Hills to the north.

Others work the fertile fields

of the Sava River Valley to the south.

Some still bring their produce by bus or train.

Others come in cars or small vans.

Once here, the kunitsa rent a stall

just big enough for their needs.

Even during the Balkan conflict,

they kept the city supplied

with whatever they could grow.

There you are,

thank you very much.

Fresh fruit and vegetables

are sold in the open air

under hundreds of brightly colored umbrellas.

Other produce is for sale

in the covered market beneath their feat

or surrounding the square.

Tucked away in one corner

is a small family run diner serving burek,

a traditional Balkan street food.

Part cafe and part restaurant,

it's easy for visitors to miss it

but it's usually crowded with stall holders

and regular market customers

who come here for their breakfast

or mid morning break.

(speaking in foreign language)

We're lucky we're so busy.

It means everything is always freshly made.

It all gets eaten right away.

The burek is sliced and sold straight from the oven.

Burek is a thick flour based pastry

sold by the slice.

It's usually filled with lamb, beef,

curd cheese or apples.

A staple of Balkan cooking,

it's an old Ottoman dish from Anatolia in Southern Turkey.

(speaking in foreign language)

We only use white flour.

The machine produces a dough

like a cross between bread and cake.

Gjoni is the best burek maker in town.

He's been making it every day since he was 16.

(speaking in foreign language)

I can make

up to 100 balls a day.

It's best to use pork fat and oil

in order for burek to be good.

You spread it over the pastry balls.

Gjoni leaves the pastry to rest

before stretching it into wafer thin layers

which give it a distinctive crunchy and flaky texture.

For the best taste,

burek should be eaten straight from the oven.

Favorite fillings include tender young beef

and fresh cottage cheese

from the rich diverse Croatian countryside.

(bright music)

The island of Pag in the Mediterranean Sea

is famous for its extraordinary coastline.

Modern tourism and traditional farming

thrive side by side.

Thanks to its unique microclimate,

Pag enjoys a reputation

for top quality dairy produce

built up over countless generations.

Hello Sime.

Ah, you're a bit early today.

Well, I'm in a hurry.

Here you are, it'll make good cheese.

Sure.

Sime Gligora returned home to Pag

after studying as a dairy technologist in Zagreb.

He's using his knowledge

to develop the family business.

(speaking in foreign language)

We have a network

of about 130 families

who bring us their milk every day

from all over the island.

(speaking in foreign language)

There are about 8,000 inhabitants

and 35,000 sheep on Pag.

That's nearly four sheep for every person.

Pag has a very specific microclimate

because of the wind known as the bura

which blows sea salt onto the land.

The bura is a dangerous unpredictable wind

which sweeps down from the north

covering the island in a fine coating

of white salty dust.

The indigenous island sheep

called (speaking in foreign language)

have survived here for centuries

grazing on the rocky pastures.

They've evolved to eat the only plants

that grow on the island,

salvia, mint, lavender and rock rose.

(speaking in foreign language)

The farmers are always on the move.

Twice a day they milk the sheep by hand

in the open fields.

All that for about one liter of milk

per sheep per day.

(speaking in foreign language)

It must be among the most expensive milk in the world.

We pay them 1.70 Euro a liter.

(speaking in foreign language)

Although we're using modern machinery to make the cheese,

it has to be left to mature

just as it was a century ago.

Sime makes both fresh and mature cheeses.

His specialty called paski sir

gets its distinctive taste

from the unusual plants eaten by the sheep.

Its strong flavor is tempered

by a subtle sweetness.

(speaking in foreign language)

Every cheese is handcrafted

by expert cheesemakers.

They oil it, turn it and check it.

That's how we guarantee the quality.

Sime produces 50 tons of paski sir a year.

His knowledge, passion and dedication

has made this cheese famous.

The mysterious aging process

continues unseen as the cheese matures on the shelf.

The taste and texture

will depend on how long it is left to develop

its own unique characteristics.

Pag cheese gets better over time.

Some people claim two months is ideal.

Others prefer a year or even two.

My personal favorite is one year old cheese.

A couple of years ago,

Sime took a stall at the Dolac market

and began selling directly to the public.

It's a chance to talk to the shoppers

about the quality that makes his cheese different.

We found an empty stall at the Dolac

and here we are.

We've had a really positive welcome from shoppers.

People are buying and coming back.

We're very happy with the stall.

It's a good way to display our cheese, promote it

and educate our customers.

Are you hungry?

Try one of these.

Thanks, they're really good.

The thing about this specific cheese

is that it ripened for more than six months.

Let me try some.

How much is it?

Sime loves explaining what's what

and to offer tasty samples.

Can I try some?

Pag cheese should melt in the mouth

leaving a taste of the island herbs.

You really have to experience

the sweet aromatic herbs.

This is great cheese.

Lets try another one.

When Sime comes to Zagreb

he always brings a selection of fresh island cheeses.

But what most of the regular market customers are after

is the legendary international award-winning paski sir.

The indoor market under the main square

is home to delicatessens, fresh pasta salads,

bakeries and dairy producers.

And here,

you'll also find another famous Croatian specialty,

cured meats.

The stalls offer an amazing variety.

From the east, comes Slavonian ham

while Istrian prsut is produced

in the region bordering Italy.

The bacon is a specialty from the southern province

of Dalmatia.

I'll have a small piece of that one.

Yes please.

Kulen sausages are a famous type of salami

from Slavonia

and are one of the stall's bestsellers.

Genuine kulen are made only

from authentic Slavonian black pigs

which much only be fed on grain, pumpkins and clover.

The secret to a perfect kulen sausage

lies in the drying and smoking.

When done by the rules,

it will keep for a long time before going off.

Unlike the cured meats

which are eaten all year round,

the turkey season is very short.

Authentic Zagorje turkeys

only go on sale towards the end of November.

(bright music) (turkeys squawking)

Just a few kilometers north of Zagreb

lie the beautiful undulating Zagorje Hills.

Although close to the city,

the region still maintains

the traditional ways of agriculture

and rearing livestock on small family run farms.

Large tractors and machinery are rarely seen here.

The fields and pastures

are farmed in much the same way

as they have been for generations.

10 years ago, Boris Vrhovski

decided to focus the family business on raising turkeys.

(whistling)

(speaking in foreign language)

In the old days,

every farm had its own turkey flock.

We thought why not breed them commercially?

That way we can really promote the Zagorje turkey.

(speaking in foreign language)

(turkeys squawking)

Boris is determined

to maintain 500 years of tradition

by resisting the modern demand

for turkeys all the year round.

(turkeys squawking)

Turkeys arrived in Zagorje

soon after the discovery of America

but their relative isolation over the centuries

has seen the evolution of a unique regional breed.

(speaking in foreign language)

Zagorje turkeys are really healthy birds

when they're allowed to live in green open pastures.

I mainly feed them on homegrown corn

and they spend the day running around the hills

which gives them good, solid muscles.

They're really low in cholesterol,

absolutely full of protein

and they taste wonderful.

(speaking in foreign language)

I treat each bird as an individual.

They're raised naturally and in rhythm with the seasons,

the way they always have been.

(speaking in foreign language)

(turkeys squawking)

Enjoy your treat.

Zagorje turkeys are smaller

and need much more care.

The chicks especially need protection from cold and snow

before they're released to roam freely around the hills.

(speaking in foreign language)

The experts tell us that each turkey

needs a minimum of 25 square meters of open space.

So it's up to us

to make sure we give them all the room they need

to grow up healthy.

Boris wages a constant battle

to keep his turkeys safe from predators.

He ties red flags in the trees where they feed.

It's an old trick but it always works.

The Zagorje turkey enjoys European protected

geographic indication status.

It's traditionally only eaten at Christmas time,

a custom Boris respects and is keen to maintain.

(gentle music)

There have been markets and fairs on this site since 1242

when Zagreb was formed from two separate towns

to become a royal free city of the kingdom of Hungary.

The city flourished

because of its position as an important trading hub

between central Europe and the mediterranean.

To mark the unification of the two towns,

a common market was established

to serve the new city.

The first kunitsa came from the nearby village of Czestina

along with their now famous red umbrellas.

Mladen Ivic is in charge

of the market store under the square.

(speaking in foreign language)

We've got room for 400 in here.

Each day the kunitsa queue

to rent an umbrella and a set of steel scales.

It saves having to bring them from home.

(speaking in foreign language)

You want two?

God bless you, see you.

We've got more than 500 umbrellas

and 200 weighing scales.

It's very simple.

You just fit it together and it works fine.

But it doesn't work so well if any parts come lose.

We open from about 6:30 to nine in the morning

to hire out the umbrellas and scales

and they bring the back at the end of the day.

It depends on the weather

as to how busy we are.

Virtually every one uses the traditional scales

even though they're not as precise as the new ones.

The kunitsa always round up the weight

to keep their customers happy.

The scales and the red umbrellas

have come to symbolize the market.

They've been here from time immemorial.

Mladen makes sure

everything is in perfect order.

It's his job to keep the market operation running smoothly.

(speaking in foreign language)

I spend the day with the stall holders

chatting, joking, having a coffee.

Everyone wants to talk to you.

There's never a dull moment.

(speaking in foreign language)

Nejo, my friend.

I have to know everyone's name.

It took me a year to remember them all.

This is our oldest vendor.

She started, when was it, after the second world war, right?

Yes.

The colors at the market

reflect the colors of the season.

It's June and the last of the cherries

make way for raspberries, blueberries

and the distinctive petrovka pears

which grow alongside the grapes in the vineyards.

These rare pears are small and packed with flavor.

Their appearance on the market around Saint Peter's Day

signals the start of summer.

(thunder clapping)

The Croatian weather is nothing if not unpredictable

and the parasols quickly revert to umbrellas.

The summer downpours are heavy but short.

It won't be long before the black clouds disappear

and the sun shines on the Dolac market once more.

There's a quiet revolution taking place under the umbrellas.

The new generation of younger kunitsa

still grow their own produce and bring it to market

but they're also introducing new varieties

of fruit and vegetables.

Snjezana Polic's family farm is in Dalmatia

where the land is fertile

and the southern climate is gentle.

Would you like some celery?

Anything else?

12 and four, that makes 16 kunas.

My family have been farmers for generations

and I've had a stall on the Dolac for about 20 years now.

Dalmatia is still heavily influenced

by its past as a Venetian republic.

Snjezana grows vegetables

more familiar in southern Mediterranean countries

than in Croatia

like these small and delicate zucchinis

which are eaten complete with their flowers.

You can stuff them with chilis.

Just put them in water and they open up overnight.

In the morning,

fill them with cheese and fry them with butter.

Even without cheese, they still taste fantastic.

They're a real treat.

They'll open up nicely,

they're good quality zucchini.

How many would you like?

Another of Snjezana's

early summer seasonal treats

are juicy bright red watermelons.

People can't wait for them

and they're really pleased

when the first watermelons finally arrive

in June or July.

It's a kind of a craze.

Everyone wants their daily slice of melon

because it's really healthy

and has no calories.

It's a real superfood.

Watermelon is starting to be appreciated more.

It's packed with nutrients

including lycopene for a strong heart

and citrulline for healthy kidneys.

A few years ago, Znjezana Polic and her family

decided to buy another piece of land closer to Zagreb.

Here in the north,

fruit and vegetables ripen later in the season

which means she can carry on selling her own watermelons

for a much longer time.

They're great,

thin rined, ripe and not too flowery.

We think the northern watermelons

are just as good, if not better.

They're sweeter and juicier

because they grow during the sunny days of July and August.

This is the autumn price.

Croatia is small but incredibly diverse

and Snjezana takes full advantage

of the different climatic conditions round the country.

On her stall, you'll find an amazing display of watermelons

next to autumn prunes, pomegranates,

and these incredible purple peas.

Not bad for a young kunitsa.

Autumn draws in

and the residents of Zagreb

prepare for the cold months ahead.

Croatia is a country of contrasts,

warm summer beaches on the Adriatic coast

and cold winters blowing in from eastern Europe.

The Dolac fish market is a mecca for locals.

The stalls are loaded with an amazing variety of seafood

brought in from the hundreds

of small Mediterranean fishing ports.

Look, sardines and anchovies,

they're really fresh.

What would you like, madam?

How much are the shrimps?

These ones are 200, these are 150.

I'll take half a kilo of these ones.

23 year old Antonio Faflja

comes from a fishing family.

One day he's on the market in Zagreb,

the next, he's out at sea.

Most people come to Dolac

to buy sardines.

They're caught at night with drag nets

and by morning, they're on sale here at the market.

Croatians love the common local fish varieties

and they flock to the market every day to buy them.

Another favorite is hake

which is best fished in the autumn.

I'd like a kilo of hake.

Why are there three different prices?

This is the top grade, the biggest ones.

This is medium.

And this is smaller.

It's better for frying in a pan.

The only difference is the size.

Are they all just as fresh?

Yes.

Hake is easy to prepare

and can be cooked in several different ways,

fried, grilled or baked.

Older people especially like it

because it's light, healthy and easily digestable.

You can tell how fresh the hake is

while you're cleaning it.

If its belly is snow white,

you can be sure it's really fresh.

When the stall is quiet,

Antonio will also clean the fish for his customers,

especially the more unusual ones.

Tourists are often surprised

by the variety and quantity of fish on offer

in the busy market.

Zagreb is only 150 kilometers from the coast

where Croatia faces Italy across the Adriatic Sea

dotted with its more than 1,200 islands and islets.

The sea still rules the lives of the islanders,

just as it has for thousands of years.

Wala!

I come from a fishing family.

I started when I was very young.

Now I can't imagine life without a boat and without fishing.

After a few days of bad weather,

the sun shines once more

on the island of Rab.

It might be cold in Zagreb

but here on the coast, it's mild and sunny.

My father and I only fish

in the waters around Rab.

And usually find the best quality hake in Karana Bay.

Some people say

it's because of the particular water quality there.

It might be to do with the salinity of the water

or it might be something else.

Antonio's father

is passing a lifetime's knowledge onto his son,

facing the challenges of being a fisherman

and staying safe at sea.

(bright music)

You have to tie it up tightly

so the fish can't get out.

The weather is set fair

for a good day's hake fishing

but you never know,

fishing is always unpredictable.

On a beautiful sunny day

I wouldn't swap this job for anything.

You've got everything you could possibly want

right here on the boat.

But on other days, the southerly wind is so strong

it blows a glass of water off the table.

Then it's not so much fun.

But you still have to go fishing

so you've got something to sell at the Dolac.

Antonio has already promised his regulars

he'll be back with some top quality hake.

This is good, the seagulls are here,

dad, the fish are here.

Come on, let's fish.

Hake are deep sea predator fish.

They live around 350 meters deep

but at night, they come into shallow water

to feed on shellfish,

smaller species and even each other.

The best time

to find big shoals of hake around Rab

is between the beginning of October

and the end of January.

They're here all year round

but that's when you get the big catches.

And who'll take care of the sea if we don't?

Once on the boat,

the haul is sorted and graded for tomorrow's market.

It's time for Antonio to see what the catch is worth.

This is a big one.

It'll sell for 65 kunas.

This one's a bit smaller.

It's worth 50 kunas.

The long night's fishing is over.

Time for Antonio and his father to head for home.

Although most of the produce in the Dolac is home grown,

some shoppers particularly want organic food

which is grown according to strict regulations.

The Sever family have two organic food stalls

at the Dolac market.

They started farming some years back

and have always maintained a natural healthy approach.

Here you are.

Thanks a lot.

There's cauliflower, tomatoes,

pindur, peaches.

No broccoli?

No, it's all gone.

(bright music)

Mario Sever and his wife Ivka

got into the fruit and vegetable business by accident.

My mother had some land near Barschden

where she was born

and we used it to grow fruit and vegetables

just for ourselves.

We wanted to know what we were eating

and where it came from.

So we grew everything organically

and didn't use any chemical pesticides or fertilizers.

Some years, the harvest was so good

they had more than they could eat,

so they started giving it away to friends and family.

Then we lost our jobs in 2000.

We turned our hobby into a business.

Since then, we've been full time organic farmers.

Ever since, Mario and Ivka

have made a living from their great passion.

A year later,

we were certified by French organic inspectors

under international rules

which are recognized by all EU countries.

The next year, Croatia introduced a legally binding register

and we became the first certified organic farm

in the country.

Ivka also likes cooking

and she's rediscovered an old recipe of her grandmother's

for a sauce called pindur.

(speaking in foreign language)

The A to Z of pindur ingredients

goes like this,

oil, salt, apple vinegar, tomatoes, paprika,

hot paprika, garlic and parsley.

Everything is grown on our farm.

Pindur was originally made

so farmers could get a taste of summer

during the cold months of winter.

Ivka and Mario's pindur

has become one of their top sellers.

It's famous throughout the market and beyond.

So you grow

all the ingredients yourself, right?

Yes, we grow all the peppers,

the tomatoes, the parsley and the garlic.

Everything we grow is organic.

Great.

Pindur is just one of the preserves

sold on the stall.

There's sauerkraut, cucumbers pickled in apple vinegar

and a pepper sauce called ajvar.

Shoppers often end up with a box full

of both fresh and pickled produce.

How much are the little ones?

20.

Thank you.

Ivka and Mario's story

proves there's money to be made

from consumers increasing demand for organic food.

It's beautiful to see your crops grow

day by day.

We like having personal contact with our customers.

We need to know what they think of our products.

Is this okay?

How many, three?

Anything else?

Their products are so good

and their business is so successful,

they were named best family farmers of the year

by Croatia's minister of agriculture.

(bright music)

Get some mushrooms.

We've only got one tray left.

And some sprouts as well.

What about cakes?

Strawberries?

Raspberries.

And raspberries for dessert.

Anna Ugarkovic is a renowned chef

running a laid back restaurant

in the very heart of Zagreb.

Here, taste is the only rule.

Forget fancy fine dining.

Anna only cooks top quality simple local food.

I come to the market every day.

I do have my regular suppliers

but I like to shop around

to get the best quality and value on that day.

Hello.

I'll just take a couple of these chili peppers.

(speaking in foreign language)

Three will do.

As well as stocking up for the kitchen,

Anna sees what's available at the market

before deciding that day's menu.

She gets inspiration from whatever is in season

and often adapts her dishes or invents new ones

depending on what she finds.

I'm really happy

when I find the best produce.

If it's good quality, it's hard to ruin it

though not impossible.

These look really nice.

How many times a year do you get them?

Hardly ever,

usually in the autumn.

They're not available all year round.

Anna, that's two kilos, 20.

Anna used to present food programs

on national television

but now she sees cooking as a reward in itself.

Back in her restaurant kitchen,

Anna tries out the dish

she will be serving to her customers tonight.

You can tell these shrimps

are from Lake Prokljan.

They're not pink like the regular ones,

more gray or brown with tiger stripes.

Lake Prokljan shrimp are a rare delicacy

which can easily be ruined

by overcomplicated cooking.

Anna makes a pesto made from garlic, toasted bread crumbs,

thyme, pine nuts and hot paprika.

Mmm, super.

Next, she fries it and adds the shrimp.

(speaking in foreign language)

Croatia doesn't have many estuaries.

So these shrimps are quite rare.

When you do get them,

it's something pretty special.

Lake Prokljan shrimps are unusual.

They live in brackish water.

It's not as salty as the sea

and gives them a sweeter taste.

She doesn't wash them with fresh water.

It's important they retain their salty taste.

Anna can't wait

to try out her unexpected find on her customers

and see their reaction.

(speaking in foreign language)

We don't often serve food

that you can eat with your hands.

But sometimes I want to give people the experience

of licking their fingers.

Anna's confident

that her customers will enjoy the shrimp

as much as she did.

Oh, these are really something special.

(giggles)

(bright music)

Every morning six days a week,

Brankica Solina picks fresh vegetables

to sell at the Dolac.

As usual, her daughter helps out

before going on to her math studies at the university.

(bright music)

Brankica and a few of the other stall holders

are trying to introduce their customers

to different experiences.

But it's a challenge to get people to try new produce.

She still keeps up the family business

of farming traditional products

but she's just bought a display fridge

and it's the first stall on the market

to sell bean sprouts and microgreens.

You grow your own?

Everything you see here

is from my own garden.

Many customers

have rather conservative tastes

and stick to what they know

but once they've tried the bean sprouts

and other new produce,

they come back for more.

Broccoli, no, it's all gone.

We only had a few.

We've only got crass, water greens and field mustard left.

The fridge and other essential equipment

was a big outlay for Brankica

but she's confident in a good return from her investment.

Sprouts are incredibly good for you.

People come back for more

because they eat them and start to feel really healthy.

They can be eaten raw in salads.

Some people add them to smoothies.

People, say one cup of alfalfa sprouts

has four times the vitamin C of a glass of orange juice.

Brankica's day on the market ends

when her husband picks her up

but as soon as she's home,

it's time to prepare the sprouts for tomorrow.

Great.

My ride's here, I'm off.

Seven and a half years ago

we went with a friend to a market in Leon

and we saw the sprouts there for the first time.

You couldn't get them anywhere in Croatia then

so we started growing them.

And now we cultivate around 15 varieties.

Over the years,

people have gradually got used to them

and they are increasingly popular.

They don't use any compost or fertilizers

on their bean sprouts and microgreens

but they need washing and packaging

before they're sold.

The variety is quite astonishing.

Pungent horseradish,

subtly flavored daikon and fiery field mustard.

Bittersweet fenugreek and fresh garlic sprouts

with their intense, concentrated taste

and no cooking needed

as they're best eaten raw.

Sprouts contain all the goodness

of a fully grown plant.

They're one of nature's miracles.

(speaking in foreign language)

Give me some.

There you are.

These garlic sprouts make a perfect topping.

Sprouts grow all year round, that's important

because we can sell them

even when we have no other vegetables.

Cheese, Ada?

No thanks.

You sure?

(bright music)

Architect Niko Gamulin

has spent a lifetime shopping at the market.

He knows every stall and every vendor.

Hello.

I'd like some of your beautiful greens.

Some of this and this?

Is it parsley?

You have to set aside at least an hour

to walk around the market

to check out the best produce

and do your shopping.

There you go, super soup.

Maybe you'll spot something really tasty

and you'll buy it,

even if you don't need it,

it's kind of a ritual.

Niko is a big fan of slow shopping.

Once in the Dolac,

he immerses himself in the whole sensory experience.

That's extraordinary.

They're better with some fat on, aren't they?

How are you?

Fine, and you?

Great.

I'd like some white cheese.

Sliced?

No, I've got a container here

and some cream as well, I love your cream.

Here, try some.

I love it when it's a bit yellow,

not pure white.

(speaking in foreign language)

Tasting the cheese and cream before you buy it

is an old Croatian custom.

The kunitsas of the Dolac

are happy to keep up the tradition.

Two pieces of cheese please

with some cream on top?

Sure.

It's beautiful.

Dairy products have always sold well on the Dolac

and people like the kunitsa who live further away

like Krejetza or Zabok.

Shoppers usually stick to their favorite stall

even if another one has better produce.

You develop a loyalty over time.

Even though the market is constantly evolving,

Niko is happy

that it's still the heart and soul of the city.

The market is a microcosm of society.

You can tell what's happening in the wider world.

Prices go up or down,

people have more or less money to spend,

shoppers are looking for bargains.

You only have to come to the Dolac

to understand how the economy is going.

Niko has been a market regular for 50 years

but he never ceases to be amazed by the stalls

and the people behind them.

Thank you very much.

You're welcome.

The market is unique.

It can't be replaced by anything else.

We have to be on our guard

because whenever a market is moved

to make way for a shiny new development,

it's lost forever.

Markets play a vital role

in the lives of ordinary people.

And once they're gone, they can't be replaced.

Girls, these grapes are as sweet as honey.

Developed over countless generations,

the special relationship between vendors and buyers

makes this market unique.

Thanks to the kunitsa,

the farmers, the fishermen and the cheesemakers,

every day the Dolac brings the fresh taste

of the Croatian countryside right into the city.

(bright music)

(speaking in foreign language)