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- Let's go ahead with the blocking stage of our run cycle.
We will now work on the down pose also called passing pose
where the contacting foot is more or less aligned
with the center of gravity of our character
and the opposite foot is passing,
almost passing the center of gravity depending on the kind
of run you're doing.
Note that the torsal route has a bit
of left to right motion,
where the weight is shifting toward the contacting foot.
But this left to right motion need to be more subtle
than on the work cycle
or your character will feel very heavy.
Next pose, I'm not thinking about the timing.
We have four poses on 12 frames,
I will key every free frames.
So I will jump on frame free
and key all the controllers.
As in the action editor and choose all channels.
During the blocking stage,
it's important to key the whole character on each main poses
to avoid any foot sliding or weird interpolation
of the different controllers
or the right foot to the ground level,
cancel the rotation on the foot role
and place it under the root of the character.
You, what I told you in the previous video,
in this case, I need to slightly raise my character
on the first poofs because on the down pose,
I feel like he's too low compared to the previous one.
So I will push the character up,
selecting both the feet and the torso root controller.
As he is pushing on his right leg,
his hips will raise on the right side
and the hips should not be twisted that much
since we are in the passing pose
and the shoulders and hips will be kind of aligned
with the feet.
Here is one of the most important tip of this video,
whenever I'm building a new pose
if I can't get a good result right away,
I will cancel the rotation of the torso root and repose it.
Press Alt + R to cancel rotation on the hips
and the torso routes
and then rebuild the pose.
It's better to do so than trying to match the pose
from the previous one.
If we have made some transformation that doesn't fit.
You will be fighting with your ring
and at the end of the blocking,
you will have lots of weird pose
in your different controller
while it may look kind of, okay,
your rig will be kind of broken.
So trust me,
you may take a little more time blocking
your poses this way,
but whenever you feel like the character is not responding,
or the rig is not responding properly,
just cancel the rotation and rebuild the pose
from scratch.
You will save them a lot of time during the polishing.
Back to our pose,
don't forget that the feet have a slight right
to left movement while in air.
Position of the foot depend on the people
and on the speed at which you are running.
Some people will have their feet going on the outside during
the passing pose other on the inside.
Since we are blocking the pose don't forget
to select all your keys and set them
to constant interpolation.
Regarding the global arm position.
You will generally keep your arms close to your body,
the faster you run.
So basically what you have to think about when working
on your poses is the faster, the straighter.
since you've matched your video reference
or the reference provided,
don't hesitate to fine tweak the first pose.
Then the second pose,
maybe lean a bit more forward the character
to make him look like a little more dynamical
that will surely refine those poses
when we will be working on the curves.
Let's now jump on to the push pose.
This is one of the most beautiful
and iconic extreme of a run cycle it's where
the contacting leg is straight back
and the leading arm is at its maximum speed.
As the arm and the shoulder up pulling
the body upward in the first video,
the leading arm and shoulder will hit their extremes
before the feet.
The fist generally don't have a big side to side motion.
It can be tempting to cross
the right hand toward the left shoulder,
but that's kind of a mistake.
You will get a cool pose, but less realistic run cycle.
In the case of this exercise,
even if we do a slightly stylized run cycle,
try to match something pretty realistic.
You can make then some badass run cycle,
once you master the run cycle principles.
So I will go on frame six.
I will raise the heel of the contacting leg
and cancel any rotation on the toes.
Then I will move the leg backward
and slightly raise the torso.
I gain advise you to use the foot roll controller,
to orientate the foot
and make the toes slightly dragging backwards.
As usual for this kind of cycle,
the hips will be twisting toward the forward leg
and the torso root and chest controller
will be twisting the opposite direction.
The left shoulder need to be raised back
and the left elbow is almost at its highest point.
I've slightly the left forearm and left hand forward
to make them drag a bit.
I will then raise the right shoulder and push it forward
and I will raise the right right arm,
twisted it so that I keep the face clear
from the right hand.
The final touch is to make the legs feet
and knees a little straighten,
so that we get a good aerodynamics
and the pose that tells you,
hey, I'm going forward.
This relies a lot on lines of action,
but we will deal with this animation principle
a little later in this course.
For the time being, just look at all the silhouette tells us
that the character is pushing up and forward.
The last pose we will have two bird is the up pose.
This is going to be pretty straight forward
since this is when most of our controllers hits
their extreme poses.
Make sure you're twisting the chest and the hips
to the maximum,
the left shoulder and left elbow
are at their highest point.
So does the right shoulder and the right hand
and then pose the feet according to the reference,
making sure that the right leg is dragging back
with the toes also dragging
to get a nice arrow shape of the leg
that points toward the previous position
of the foot in space.
And then as usual don't hesitate
to rework each controller to get a better pose.
Don't forget to double check the video reference.
As you may get some more details like the left elbow.
is getting higher and the left forearm
is slightly bending inward.
Don't target to slightly twist the arm
to keep the head clear
and finally you should scrub through your animation
as often as possible.
So that you can fine tweak the previous poses
so that the flow looks great.
Once I'm done with that,
I will make sure I add a key frame on all the channel
of this key.
And then I will,
then I will go back on frame zero in the 3d viewport.
Select all the controllers,
press Ctrl + C to copy the pose and then go to frame 12
and in the 3d viewport press control Shift + V
to mirror the pause.
Then I just have to repeat the process,
go on frame free copy the pause
then go 12 frames later on frame 15
and paste the mirrored pause and repeat the process.
Finally, I will just have to duplicate
all the keys from frame zero onto frame 24.
Once I'm done
and it seems that the cycles work,
I will insert a key frame on every single keys
I have created
so that all my controllers are keyed
and we have our linear, our cycle.
As we can finally see our whole cycle.
We can finally check what's working and what's not.
In my case,
I feel like the animation lack of dynamism
to get more dynamic run cycle,
you can push the torso route forward
and lean your character forward too a little more.
When birding a run cycle,
the more horizontal you get the more dynamism you will have.
If you think about the stereotypical anime ninja run cycle
like in our route.
So legs are generally pushed to back while the torso
is pushed forward and is almost horizontal.
Once you've tweaked all your pose.
Don't forget to again to again mirror them on each keys.
Here is the result I got from our blocking stitch.
The run cycle looks pretty cool, pretty natural
not too dynamic, not too stylized
which is perfect to learn our fundamental.
Since we've been keying every free frame
in some kind of thinning our fashion,
the run cycle works.
What we can do now,
is offset some of the key poses
to slightly stylized our run cycle.
For a light skilled and agile character.
We want to favorize the airborne pause.
The idea is to hold the up pose a little longer
and switch from the straight pose down pose
and pushing pose a little faster,
the process in itself is not super complicated
and not super interesting.
I'm just moving some keys until I get to the right timing.
So in the end I've set the down
or passing pose on frame free and 15.
The pushing pose on frame five and 17,
so that we have only two frame between
the down and pushing pose.
So that the foot is rapidly sliding on the ground
before we get back into the air
with the up pose on frame eight and 20.
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