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- [Instructor] In this video,
we will start the blocking stage of our run cycle.
To create this run cycle,
we will mix the layered approach
with the blocking approach.
In this video, we will create the main poses
before jumping into spline
and polish each part of the body one by one.
Note that nothing is carved into stone
and those poses might evolve during the polishing stage.
It's important to use the video reference you will gather
on the internet
and to guide you during this blocking stage,
I'm providing a picture
with the different main poses.
The last thing I'd like to address
before we jump into it is that most of the time,
I'm using global coordinates
with individual origin for my manipulators
but I often use local space,
especially for the forearms
that can rotate only along one axis.
Though I generally press R to rotate
and then Z twice to switch to local space.
This is why you will often see me press Z, Y
or X twice to switch from global to local.
If you are used to work with widget manipulators,
then I advise you to directly switch to local space.
This way you will get more familiar
with the controller alignment.
I personally exclusively use a shortcut.
This is why I often stay in global space.
The idea is to create a slightly stylized run cycle
but the fundamentals of a realistic venular run cycle
will be there.
Making it stylized will be mostly
about contrasting the timing
and exaggerating a bit the poses
but making it looks cool
will require us to have a good physicality
and realistic fundamentals, so let's get started.
The first thing we are going to do
is to link our character into the scene.
So let's get rid of all the default object
in our scene and then go to File, Link
and in the chapter five file,
you will find the TRIDENT-CHARACTER RIG_final file.
Go to Collection
and choose the first collection, TRIDENT-CHARACTER.
Double click the collection
and it will appear in the outliner.
Now, to be able to expose the rig of our character,
unfold the imported collection
and right click on the sub-collection,
go to ID Data
and choose Add Library Override Hierarchy.
This will give us access to the current rig
and the different object of the character
and if any update were made
on the original linked file,
it will automatically update
in your scene.
We have now a new character collection
with two sub-collection,
including the rig and the different models.
We can get rid of the file we've imported just before,
the one with the orange collection icon.
From there, we can select the rig,
switch into pose mode by pressing Control + Tab.
Then when animating,
I personally like to switch the shading to flat
with texture object
and enable the cavity and shadows.
In the 3D view properties panel,
you will find the rig properties panel.
Here, in the visibility tab,
you can disable the weapon's visibility.
Set the length of our cycle, 24 frames.
So I will go on frame zero and press Control + Home
and then go on frame 23 and press Control + End.
Since from 24 on frame 0 will be the same,
I don't want to read from frame 0 to frame 24
but jump from frame 23 to frame 0.
There with the dope sheet opened,
I will switch to the Action Editor
and I will duplicate the current animation called Keying Set
to create our run blocking animation.
Don't forget to click the shield icon
to make sure you set a fake user to the animation
and won't lose it.
Another thing I advise you to do
before we start blocking the animation
is to create a second 3D viewport in perspective,
showing your character.
While we generally animate in autographic view,
that's always a good thing to have a perspective view,
just to preview the animation.
So let's now create our first pose,
the straight leg pose.
This is the one where the front leg
is getting straightened just before contacting
with the ground.
The back leg is pointing backward
and as seen in the video reference,
the front arm has already started swinging backward.
So from a side view, you should be able
to see both elbows.
Left shoulder is twisting forward
and the hips are twisted in the opposite direction.
For the animation of this character,
we will be using 30 frame per seconds.
This is the usual frame rate used in video games production.
And the one I'm used to animate with.
It's only to work on cinematic animation,
then you can stick to 24 frame per seconds.
In the end, whatever the frame rate,
the goal is to make your animation feels good.
It's not that important during the blocking stage.
So we can now start positioning the feet
from a side view.
When it comes to rotating the foot backward
and forward, I advise you to use the foot roll controller,
rotating it on its x local axis.
It will make your life way easier
since it's built to create this kind
of rotation and mechanism.
Since we won't be animating the root bones,
you can hide them through the rig UI.
Now pose the second foot,
again using the foot roll to rotate the foot forward
and then rotating the toes backward.
As usual, I will probably go back and forth
onto this pose while building the other poses.
In your case, just use the reference provided
or build your own poses.
It's very important to pose your character
from different angles.
Don't stay in side view.
That will be a big mistake.
When it comes to twisting the hips
on the global z-axis, it's pretty straight forward.
Just follow the position of the legs.
Since the right leg is forward,
just twist the right side of the hips forward.
Then the torso the opposite direction,
the left side forward.
A very important thing here
is that the torso root controller
will be your main controller to position the torso
of your character.
This is the controller you have to move the most
to get your character into position.
Then the chest and hips controller
are here to tweak the pose of your character.
And this is why here I prefer to console the rotation
of hips and chest by pressing Alt + R,
the main shape using the torso root controller
and then fine tweak the pose
using the chest controller
and the hips controller.
It can be very hard to get a correct pose.
In my case, I won't be able to reach it right away.
So try your best to match the reference
and then go on the next pose.
You will naturally get back to this pose
to adjust it compared to the other poses.
Posing the arms will definitely help
to get a better silhouette.
I will slightly rotate the front shoulder upward
and forward and then I will work with the arm controller
that can rotate on all axes
to match the reference.
When rotating the forearm,
don't forget to favorize its local z-axis,
since elbows and knees can normally rotate only
on one axis.
To make our life easier,
we will pull the hand with a closed fist.
Watch your own hand as a reference
and make sure that the fist is slightly curling.
Don't make a box shape with the hand.
Look it from every angle
and you will notice that the joint always form a curve.
Take the time to properly pose one
of the hand and then we will mirror it
on the other side.
My favorite controller for the hands
is the master palm controller.
It allows you to move all the palm bones at once
with a nice falloff
and build nice base and shapes.
There I will curve each finger,
rotating them on their local x-axis.
The first joint is supposed
to be rotated almost at 90 degrees.
Then I will pose the thumb
and then adjust the finger accordingly.
As I explained in the very beginning of the video,
it's better to enable cavity
and shadows onto your flat shading
so that you can see the geometry a little better
and betterly read the pose.
Again, take the time to create a nice pose,
adjust each joint.
Don't forget to slightly compress the palms inwards
and then adjust the thumb position.
There are different poses for closed fist,
depending on the people and the reference you are watching.
The best reference still being your own fist
because you can see it from every angle
and you can also feel the pose in your own hand.
Once we have reached a satisfying pose,
we can select all the hand bones controller,
press Control + C to copy the pose
and then Control + Shift + V.
This will automatically mirror the pose
on the other side.
With my finger posed, I can now readjust the position
of the arms.
Don't forget, you can both rotate
and move the shoulder controller
and that the arm controller
can be rotated in all direction
while the forearm controller
should be rotated only along its z local axis.
You can slightly rotate the hand inward
to break a bit the wrist
and get a more opening shape for the arm.
Don't go too extreme
because your wrist motion is pretty limited.
Take a few seconds
and try rotating your fist forward
and backward and then try to rotate it
from left to right.
You will see that its motion
is currently very limiting.
Posing the right arm is pretty straightforward.
Don't forget to check your pose from the front view
and realign the knees and the feet if needed.
Don't forget to double check the reference I have provided
and rewatch the previous video
where we have breaked down the run cycle poses,
using real-life references.
In the neck, it's important to switch
to NECK-FOLLOW, instead of HEAD-FOLLOW
where the base of the neck gets aligned
with the torso, which is more natural
and then we can tweak its position
and tweak the head position.
From there, don't forget to slightly tweak the position
and orientation of your foot of your knees
and we finally have our first pose done.
As explained in the beginning of this video,
this might not be the final straight leg pose
but that's a good start to work onto the next one.
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