All language subtitles for All.That.Glitters.S01E05.WEBRip.x264-ION10[eztv.re]

(female narrator) All that glitters may not be gold, but it is a glamorous

and highly tensed talent search format.

And it's the semi-final, just four jewelers have

returned to the workshop to face two tough

socially-distanced challenges.

(Sonny) Lord Almighty!

(female narrator) This week, they must make a gem-encrusted cuff bracelet.

As you can see, it looks like a slice of watermelon.

(female narrator) Before making a bespoke gift of love for a special client.

(Shaun) Oh!

(female narrator) The jewelers will be judged by two of the biggest names

in the business, jewelry maker to the stars

Shaun Leane..

I was expecting a little bit more.

(female narrator) ...and world renowned jewelry designer

Solange Azagury-Partridge.

It just seems like a slightly more generic style to me.

(female narrator) But who will leave the workshop for good..

It's kind of black!

(female narrator) And which jewelers will dazzle their way into the grand

If you gonna go out, go out in flames.

(female narrator) This is "All that Glitters."

[theme music]

[instrumental music]

(female narrator) Nestled in the heart of Birmingham's jewelry quarter

the "All That Glitters" workshop is the battleground

for the penultimate set of challenges.

I'm still in a state of shock about being in the semi-finals.

But I just got to keep believing in myself, moving forward.

Never thought I'll be able to get this far

and last week, the client chose my piece..

Sonny.

(Sonny) And for me, that's pretty special.

And now the pressure is on to, to keep that bar at that level.

(Hugo) This is where it really gets real, it'd be such a shame to

to be sent home after this challenge, so, really getting

my game face on, I'm ready to smash it today!

(female narrator) And to smash it, they'll have to first design and create a

piece of jewelry people would fall over

themselves to get their hands on.

It's "The Bestseller!"

Hi jewelers, welcome to the semi-final, you're so close to

the finish and getting your hands on that

'"All That Glitters" trophy.'

'But, before you start thinking'

about which Lourve to display it in, today we'll need you to work

some more of your jewelry magic with gemstones.

'I understand you've been given rubies, sapphires, peridots'

'tourmalines, don't know what those last two are'

'but they sound like gemstones.'

For the Bestseller challenge, the judges would like you to

make a cuff bracelet adorned with precious and semi-precious

gemstones that will dazzle and amaze.

Shaun and Solange, over to you!

Cuffs were originally worn by soldiers in ancient Greece

as a form of protection.

'So this piece must resonate power.'

But the gemstones must elevate it to

a beautiful must-have piece of jewelry.

'Your cuff must slide on easy, but not fall off, when worn.'

The opening is crucial.

'Today we'll be looking for it only to be'

an inch and a quarter, exactly.

You must use five gemstones at least in your cuff bracelet

'and each stone needs to be set with a bezel setting.'

The Bestseller challenge is about mass appeal, so imagine

your cuff in a shop window

'and everyone walking by has to have it.'

'You have five hours to deliver!'

- Good luck! - 'Good luck, everyone!'

[instrumental music]

(female narrator) A cuff bracelet is often made using one piece of material

to give it a rigid form, and unlike a standard bracelet

a cuff isn't connected by a clasp, instead it has a opening

at the back, that allows it to slip on and off the wrist.

Of course, you gotta smash it today, it's the semi-final.

I like my design and I'm really confident in it

and, hopefully, the judges appreciate it, too.

(female narrator) The jewelers have each been given a 1.5 millimeter

thick sheet of silver to make their cuff bracelet.

They're quite a statement piece definitely.

'but they can be quite feminine too'

and I want to add a sense of power to mine.

(female narrator) To embellish their cuffs, the jewelers have already

selected an array of precious and semi-precious gemstones

all different shapes and colors and each one with a name

more elaborate than the last.

Yeah, so I have chosen the blue chalcedony

and the rutilated quartz.

Look at the light on that!

I've gone for a couple of citrines.

'Which is yellow, sort of orange claptrap stone.'

'Blue sapphires, labradorite, which is like a greeny'

kind of like a bluey color, uh, using quite big stones.

So, hopefully, that, um, comes across in the finished item.

Why have you chosen this specific challenge

for the semi-final?

We have really upped the game here

'because there are certain skills going on here.'

'There is gold smithing'

'to create this formidable structure'

then there is fine gemstone setting

to create a delicacy

and a really embellished beautiful detail

and it's gonna take two polar opposite skills

'to bring this one piece together.'

Tell me about the piece, what is a cuff?

It normally is a form that slides on to your wrist

turns and stays, and there's a little gap at the back.

'So if the gap's too big, it could fall off.'

'If the gap's too small, you won't get it on.'

A cuff is one of the most sexiest pieces of jewelry.

'It's got that really strong, powerful image.'

It's a bit Wonder Woman, Xena Warrior Princess..

There you go, they had cuffs, and what were they?

They were powerful women!

So I am looking for something strong

powerful, feminine and decorative.

[instrumental music]

(female narrator) Tamara, Dan and Hugo are starting with their sheets

of silver, from which they are going to

cut and shape their cuffs.

Hugo's technical skills have won him the accolade

of Jeweler of the Week twice, but in previous challenges

he's missed one vital criteria.

(Hugo) It is quite important to get these measurements

of the correct size.

You don't wanna make it too big

so that it's not gonna fit on a wrist.

'On the first week, I did have'

'a little bit slip off on the size'

so, obviously, I don't want to make that mistake again.

- 'Good morning, Hugo!' - Hey, good morning!

This is the semi-final, it's an important challenge.

- 'How you feeling?' - Oh!

I'll be lying if I said that there weren't a few butterflies

but, um, I think that's only expected

when you coming this close to-to the finish.

- Tell me about your design! - 'Um, so..'

My design is so, evolving around the sea, the ocean.

'There's nothing more powerful than the sea, so the needs to'

'exude power, I feel like I am still sort of adding my own'

'little bit of flare to this design.'

'I love adding texture'

'so that's exactly what I am gonna be doing here.'

And what stones are you using?

I sort of decided to use labradorite

'and the rest of the stones I am using are'

blue sapphires.

'I tried to go with something blue.'

I wanted the stones to just kind of look as if they were

sort of like scaling across the shore, the shoreline.

Well, that's the beautiful thing about a cuff

you got more surface area, you can really play

with the shape and the form, so, good luck

and I look forward to seeing that later.

(Hugo) Thank you very much. Thanks!

(female narrator) Dan's jewelry making talents have always impressed

the judges, but they are keen to see him settle on one

signature style, either his organic curves

or his geometric shapes.

(Dan) I'm doing a very angular piece today, there are all sorts of

shapes in here, it's a showcase of shapes.

So I have made triangles, you got all sorts of

rhomboidion shapes.

I've done two, lot's more to go, and if I can just

motor through this, it might be wild.

- How are you, Dan? - I'm alright, getting there!

- What's your angle today? - My angle is angles.

- 'Is it?' - I am going..

- I am going angular again. - 'Right.'

(Dan) 'And I'm gonna do, it's like a pentagon-shaped cuff'

'and it's gonna have sharp shapes cut in and around.'

(Solange) 'You've given yourself quite a challenge'

with setting kite shapes, because the end

'of the stone can often break.'

(Dan) 'It can, yeah, it's been a long time since I've set anything'

with corners like this, but wait and see.

(Solange) 'Okay, so it's quite, uh, an aggressive look in a way.'

Yeah, it's quite, yeah, it is quite aggressive--

Which, I suppose, a cuff is a tough look, isn't it?

Wants to be powerful!

And do you feel like it's, um, semi-final worthy?

- Yes, you know what, yes, I do. - You do? Okay.

- I think it's a bold cuff. - 'Bold design.'

- How big is it? - 'I'm going three..'

Three and a half centimeters wide.

That's quite polite size, yeah.

Reasonably polite with aggressive styling.

Okay, well, I look forward to seeing it, I'm intrigued.

(Dan) 'Thank you!'

(female narrator) Tamara's skills have seen her win Jeweler of the Week

once before, but her ambitious designs

have often seen her run out of time.

She's hoping her cuff design is more realistic.

(Tamara) 'I am making a cuff that has a starburst pattern in the center'

of the cuff and I'll be carving patterns around stones as well.

(Katherine) 'Hi, Tamara, how's it going?'

- I am alright! - What stones are you using?

(Tamara) 'I have chosen pink tourmaline and pink sapphire'

'and it's called a watermelon tourmaline'

'which, as you can see, it looks like'

'a slice of watermelon, it's quite translucent'

'but, um, quite magical looking as well.'

I love that you're doing the pink, representing

the ladies through and through.

I know, I'm not normally that...girly.

I think today being the last woman left in the competition

having reached the semi-final

it's okay to fly the pink flag a little bit.

Totally, I agree, yeah.

How are you feeling about that?

It's me against all the jewelers

rather than me against men.

It's really nice that you think of men as being equal to you.

It took me a long time to consider them people.

[laughs] But you know, they can be just as good as us.

- Yeah, they can be. - 'Go for it, Tamara!'

'Cause what you're doing looks beautiful!

- Thanks! - Well done!

Thank you.

[instrumental music]

[whirring]

(Sonny) Lord Almighty!

I shouldn't have wore white jeans.

What a terrible idea!

(female narrator) Sonny wants his cuff to look like the night sky.

So he's going to randomly bezel-set five moonstones

to look like stars, but to showcase his

love of traditional jewelry, instead of forming his cuff

from the silver sheet like the others

he's going to melt it down in a process called forging.

(Sonny) I need to make a crucible big enough to melt all the silver.

'I'm using charcoal block because that can help to'

'keep the silver nice and clean when melting.'

And the reason I'm forging it out is because I think

you get really authentic texture.

And the night sky isn't uniform

it's wobbly, it's got dark patches, light patches

I think that forging process embodies that perfectly.

So you gonna start to see the silver collapsing to itself.

It needs to be, ah, let's just round out to about

1000 degrees Celsius for it to be able to melt.

'So, you want it to be what's called a'

'rolling melt and then cooled.'

'This could be an absolutely terrible idea, by the way.'

But, if you gonna go out, go out in flames, 100 percent!

I'm actually going to redo that.

I lost a little bit of the silver and I am not too happy

with the, this little blobbing at the top.

[instrumental music]

So that's what we call a nice pour.

'So now I'm just gonna make loads of noise, annoy everyone.'

But that's fine, it's the semi-finals, gotta do somethin'.

(female narrator) Having melted his sheet into a block

Sonny needs to forge it with a hammer, back into a sheet.

Why, why you making so much noise?

[hammer clanking]

You do have to watch thumbs, quite closely.

My thumb would explode on impact!

Don't think BBC would like exploding thumbs.

(female narrator) A key feature of a cuff bracelet is its curved form

that sits comfortably around the wrist and has a gap

big enough to put it on but not so big it falls off.

(Tamara) It's been so long since I've made a cuff

I'm trying to remember the starting of it, really

so, um, gonna start on the ends first.

It's just easier always to start on the ends first.

I can't remember why, so I know it is easier.

(Hugo) Comfort is key for this sort of thing, so I-I bend

these curves back, obviously, representing the waves.

If you look here, that, it's just gonna slip on like that.

(female narrator) To complement the geometric shapes of his stones..

(Dan) 'Yeah, I'm gonna have to go quick!'

(female narrator) ...Dan is using defined angles to get the curve for his

But there's no room for error, he wants to ensure the one

and a quarter inch opening that judges are looking for.

If he doesn't bend the section far enough

the cuff won't stay on the wrist.

Oh, shoot! That is going off.

(female narrator) But if he bends them too far

he risks snapping the silver in two.

That's really difficult to bend.

'Some of them aren't quite bending enough.'

So, I'm gonna have to, um..

Don't know, bend them small, somehow.

'Yeah, it could snap.'

It could, I'm asking it real nicely not to.

[gasps] Totally losing my confidence with it.

Ooh!

Almost too much.

'Hey!'

Not bad.

Okay.

This is your one hour time call.

One hour left!

Don't do that.

Oh! Oh, stop that!

(Sonny) So, all the bashing was worth it.

It's formed and here she is!

'Feel like I've done something which is different'

to everyone else, and hopefully it'll show

to the judges a different skill.

(female narrator) But one of the key skills the judges do want to see

is the jeweler's ability to create a bezel setting.

Bezel setting is a border of fine metal where the metal

is pushed over the edge of the stone to hold it in place.

'The cuff is gonna be quite a formidable structure'

'but I want the setting to be delicate.'

'I want the metal around the stone to be'

a really fine, bright line.

(Tamara) I'm using a pusher to push the metal over the stone

and you have to sort of work around the stone

in quite a uniform way

with a lot of rocking motion, and then go around it again.

(female narrator) If they don't push the silver over far enough

the stone could fall out.

(Hugo) Get a little bit nervous at this point, you know?

(female narrator) But pushing it over too far causes other problems.

My worst fear is probably a stone cracking, you know.

We don't want a mistake like that.

And as soon as you see that piece of metal touch the stone

you wanna stop applying the pressure

because as soon you start pushing too much

it's when things can sort of split.

(Sonny) I'm using the hammer setting technique.

'Really just tryin' to get this out now.'

So, I wanna get these sto-stones in.

But, I need to be careful.

Just from a time perspective.

But..

Big stones are in.

On to little ones.

Fifteen minutes left, jewelers!

Excuse me.

(Dan) 'This one of the fastest I've ever worked, in my whole life.'

I started off with one kind of texture and now

I'm just kind of wriggle it around

as quickly as possible texture.

'Cause I need some time to still finish

to polish up and stuff.

It's not doing it for me at the moment, I don't know why.

I wanted to, ah, spend a little bit more time

doing this texturing, but I wanted it to be sort of

like the texture that would mimic the sand, but it's not

looking like I'm gonna still get that

so I'm just kinda make do.

[instrumental music]

(Dan) 'This is called oxidizing.'

'It speeds up the oxidizing process.'

Or the tarnishing of the silver.

Looks kind of cool actually!

Do you have any steel wool? Steel wool?

We got a steel wool?

Anyone's seen any sheep?

[whistling]

Five minutes, jewelers!

Oh, [bleep]!

I know, I wish the semi was longer.

I just haven't got quite long enough to refine this

the way I'd have liked.

It's so almost what I wanted.

If I had another 20 minutes, 20 minutes would've done it.

It's still pretty cool, but it's unfinished, though.

I can't talk.

Up to the work on me though, it's gonna be tight.

'I'm not gonna lie, but..'

...I always pull out the bag, it-it'll be fine.

[instrumental music]

[indistinct]

Salvage fit, back from the brink.

I hope I pull it off. Very close.

'My setting isn't as clean as I would've liked.'

'But the stones are in there.'

I've never set so many stones so quick. Frantic!

1.25 inside.

Is everyone gonna finish? Dan, are you alright?

- Yeah! - Yeah.

You gonna finish, Tamara?

- I'm finished. - You are finished?

(Katherine) 'Oh, my God!'

- 'Well done!' - Thanks.

(Katherine) Dan, you finished?

Well done, you got 33 seconds to spare!

Well done.

'Dan's finished! Tamara's finished!'

Twenty-five seconds! Sonny, Hugo! Will you finish?

They're not speaking to me.

'Five.'

Four.

'Three.'

'Two.'

One!

Well done, jewelers, another challenge complete!

[applause]

Oh, it's quite hardcore, yeah, I feel a little bit high.

(female narrator) After five hours of sawing, hammering

soldering and setting, the jewelers have

all completed their Bestseller challenge.

But who has created a cuff with five bezel set gemstones

with an opening of one and a quarter inches?

Semi-final.

You won Jeweler of the Week, last challenge.

Yes.

(Shaun) 'So, I was expecting a little bit more.'

'I just feel it's lacking..'

'...a little bit of movement a little bit of energy.'

The setting is good!

They are all nice and solid in there.

(Solange) I do feel like it's slightly lacking in Hugo refinement.

I'd thought you might have cut some metal out

and lightened it up a bit.

'Let's measure the gap.'

Oh, it's a little bit bigger, what's happening

'on these empty sides, you know'

'because a piece of jewelry is three-dimensional.'

You should be able to enjoy the idea all the way around.

'Maybe it should have gone from this end to, to that end.'

The river could have run through the middle of it.

'But this is lovely, cuffs are always'

'so uncomfortable to put on generally'

and that's really a lovely touch.

Thank you!

(Solange) Personally, I wondered why you spent so much time forging it.

But it has got the correct gap.

'Feels quite heavy and it feels like I might lose it.'

I mean, I love the moonstones and I love the white sapphires.

'The edges are smooth, this is smooth'

'it feels comfortable to wear'

and also, you've left the sides empty, which is a shame.

(Shaun) 'For me, the composition is slightly off.'

'These are big stones that you're using, specially'

that large central moonstone.

So, it's almost like that moonstone

'needs a little bit more space.'

'I do love a forged piece of metal, it's got a nice weight'

and you've spent a lot of time doing that.

I was worried about that in the beginning

because that you could've spent

more time on other areas.

For the bezel setting, they are a little bit jagged.

'You know, lot of hammer marks, your concept was lovely.'

But I think that it just lost a little bit of the magic

of a night sky for me.

[instrumental music]

(Shaun) Congratulations, it's beautiful!

You have created quite a powerful statement.

It's nice and wide, but you've added a real femininity to it.

'You graduated it really beautifully to the back'

'so you get this really lovely shape.'

The settings are..

'...all good, but one!'

It's very light and it has got very feminine energy.

'It's a little bit smaller, but it fits nicely.'

'Your edges are nice and smooth, and the fact that you haven't'

'decorated it all the way around is less important'

'because you have created this cut away'

so it's not like there's a big block of empty metal.

'And the way you've engraved the metal'

'it looks like there might be a little gemstone in this.'

'So that's a very clever effect.'

And I think it's very pretty, it's lovely!

It's very feminine, soft power. Nice job!

Thank you!

[instrumental music]

You've really made a beautiful shape and it carries on

'all the way around, which is really important.'

And you've lightened up the metal

'which is really interesting. Let's have a look at the gap.'

Come on! Come on, gap!

Well, it's smaller than it should be.

'However, it's a kind of perfect fit.'

'I feel very safe wearing that.'

- Thank you! - 'Very wearable.'

The way you have embedded the stones on each side of facet

'is lovely, it's very considered.'

'So the settings are covering all of the stones.'

I see one color has split slightly.

'There's a lot of fire staining there'

'but, you know, bit more'

'polishing you could've got rid of that.'

I think that is a really beautiful cuff

and I could definitely see that

in a contemporary gallery for sale.

'And that's what I wanna see'

especially now we're in the semi-final.

- 'Well done!' - Thank you!

(Katherine) Well done, jewelers. Shaun and Solange will take

some time now to scrutinize your cuff bracelets

and decide who has set the workshop alight

with their dazzling designs and whose shine

was a little dull!

'You'll return tomorrow, and some of you will be'

'pleased to see your lights are on.'

'And for others, your lights'

'will be off, but nothing set in stone.'

You just need to mine a little bit deeper

and bring what it takes to make it to the final.

See you tomorrow.

(female narrator) With the workshops to themselves, the judges

have to choose the jewelers who have impressed

and whose lights will remain on

and whose lights will be turned off

and in danger of going home.

Some have, in my eyes, have shown a little bit better

and some who I expected to shine, didn't.

There's definitely, like a hint of disappointment.

Uh, I'll be lying, if I said there wasn't.

They had very valid points, um

thinking about it, it was right, you know.

(Solange) 'Sonny, I don't really know what happened there.'

Spending all that time forging the metal

When he should have been thinking about

the shape and the layout of the stones.

I made that decision, I probably shouldn't have

melt it down, I was trying to prove too much.

Tamara, again, very pretty.

I think she's really surprised us with that.

Dan's piece is beautiful, there is a

'couple of elements that could be better.'

To say it was sort of gallery worthy, that's-that's good to..

I loved that, that was really good, I liked hearing that.

So, we're gonna have to make a decision, aren't we?

Lights on, lights off, who that will be?

[instrumental music]

(female narrator) Yesterday's challenge was all about designing a piece

with mass appeal, but today, it's getting personal.

Our jewelers need to create a piece

commissioned by a real client.

It's "The Bespoke."

James and Claire are both school teachers and have come

to the "All That Glitters" workshop to commission a piece

that's the ultimate gift of love.

- Good morning! - Morning!

Hi!

Welcome to the "All That Glitters" workshop.

- 'Are you in a relationship?' - We are!

Where's this relationship going?

Well, Claire's pregnant, so, hopefully, we'll have a baby!

It's going pretty serious.

So, congratulations!

Let's go back to the beginning. How did you two meet?

We both went to Northumbria University

Then I moved to Vancouver!

- Vancouver? - Yeah.

We decided to long distance for a while which ended up--

- Very long distance! - 'Yeah.'

- In fact, year and half in-- - I proposed!

May I see the ring?

It was stolen.

[gasps]

- You were robbed? - 'Yeah.'

It was quite horrible experience, really.

You've not replaced the ring?

I didn't want one that was just a replica

of something that had been taken away.

The style was too raw as well. Still too emotional.

What can we do for you today?

We'd love to have a new engagement ring.

It'd be a new memory and just as special.

It'd be a nice fresh start, I think.

Yeah, okay, so what can I tell the jewelers

when they are designing this ring?

I do want to be able to wear the ring everyday

and definitely don't want to have to leave it at home, so..

Wouldn't it be nice if we can get you some

Canadian diamonds as well?

Yeah, I mean, the Canadian element of our relationship

it's, it'd be quite cool to celebrate, uh..

(Claire) 'It was a big part of our life for a long time.'

(Katherine) So, Claire, you will be involved in choosing

your new engagement ring?

Um, I felt, I'd let that, leave that up to James.

He picked my first one, so I am trusting him to, ah

make another amazing choice.

- Yeah. - Which I'm sure, you will.

I think we'll make you happy, I think James is gonna make you

happy for the rest of your life.

- That's the plan! - 'Yeah.'

I'm pretty confident in that!

(female narrator) But before the jewelers receive today's brief

it's time to find out whose gemstone cuff bracelet

failed to sparkle.

If a jeweler's plinth light is still on, they've impressed.

But if it's turned off, they have one more chance to redeem

themselves to secure a place in the final.

Shaun and Solange have decided to switch the lights off

of Sonny..

...and Hugo.

- This, I expected this one. - 'Yeah, yeah, same, same!'

(Sonny) 'It is the first time that my light was off, but I was'

anticipating it in anyway, I knew it as soon as

I finished the piece.

'I've just gotta crack on'

and get the piece done the way I want to, today.

(Hugo) 'Third time, my light's been off and I am still here'

so there's nothing I can't bounce back from.

(Katherine) Good morning, jewelers, lights on or lights off

it's all still to play for in today's Bespoke challenge.

'I know you all want to make it'

'to the final next week, so if your light was off'

you just gotta give that extra push.

This is James and Claire.

'James is commissioning a beautiful diamond'

'engagement ring for his wife.'

'Yes, they're already married'

'and they have a baby on the way.'

'There was an engagement ring'

but it was stolen by a dirty thief.

'So it's very special today that you make a meaningful'

new engagement ring, with diamonds.

'Shaun and Solange, over to you.'

Today, you really need to up your game

as we are giving you your most valuable gem, yet.

'A one-carat princess cut diamond.'

'The diamond must be set in a gold band with a gold setting.'

'The finger size must be Q.'

And there's no room for error on an important piece such as this.

And we've given you an additional 24 milli stones

to further enhance it.

You can embellish your ring as you like

but please remember to add your signature

'and honor the client's story.'

Canadian diamonds are precious.

I would know.

'You'll have five hours in the Bespoke challenge.'

And that five hours starts now!

Good luck!

[instrumental music]

(female narrator) A diamond's value is measured with the four C's.

Carat, clarity, color and cut.

The judges have given the jewelers

a one-carat white princess cut diamond.

With its square top and a profile that

looks like an upside-down pyramid.

All of our diamonds and I

have been responsibly sourced from Canada.

Really excited to be working with this kind of stone!

First time, we've got a diamond, just as we start the process.

And it's a lovely size.

I don't know if I've hope the diamond is big.

I think, I-I, but, yeah, loads can go wrong.

It's fiddly again! Big hands small stuff.

I've got to make this tiny setting.

So, some tricky-tricky stuff today.

Why do you think a diamond engagement ring is the ultimate

challenge here in the semi-final?

Well, it's a very loaded piece of jewelry.

It's full of emotion.

It has to be, probably the most colossal

piece of jewelry you ever own.

Wasn't it an engagement ring that got you

into jewelry design?

It really was, yeah, absolutely.

I designed my own engagement ring.

(Katherine) 'Ah-ha! Most people wouldn't see'

'that as a traditional engagement ring.'

So, tell me what makes an engagement ring?

Anything can actually be an engagement ring.

It really doesn't even need to have a diamond in it.

What it needs is to have the emotion and intention

and the love, and it needs to really

speak to both of you as a couple.

What are you hoping to see from

the jewelers in this challenge?

There are so many generic, very boring

engagement rings out there.

And we've got some strong personalities here.

- I want to see their character. - Yeah.

It's a very heavy task for them today.

As I always say, you only get married for first time once.

- That's true! Yes! - Beautiful

(female narrator) The jewelers have been given nine carat gold wire

and five grams of gold casting grain

to make and set their diamond ring.

The type of setting they use is completely up to them.

But it has to do two jobs.

One, present the diamond beautifully.

And two, hold it in place for life.

(Hugo) 'Yeah, I'm gonna do that round close setting.'

I really like claws, so it really shows off the stone.

I'm gonna get as much sunlight in as possible.

But, yes, it's gonna be really beautiful.

- Good morning, Hugo. - Good morning!

Sadly not yourself this morning.

It was. It's a little bit of set back, you know

to see if I'm from coming from a good week last week.

'But, you know, I'm looking to sort of redeem'

myself this week, you know.

Tell me about your design.

One thing is, I'm putting a little bit of modern twist on

'what is a traditional kinda mount.'

Ah, so, it's gonna be of square, saying round close.

Okay.

I'm gonna have two maple leaves come up

gradually touching the stone.

And that's their love of Canada?

For sure. It's important to incorporate that into my design.

You know, it's a big part of their life.

'They proposed in Canada, so, every time she looks'

'at her ring, she's gonna be reminded of that time'

'that her partner proposed.'

(female narrator) Like Hugo, Dan is also using a claw setting.

But as well as making a band with three adjoining waves

embellished with smaller diamonds

he's adding something special to represent

James and Claire's love of the night sky.

I mean, in the setting, underneath the diamond

I'm gonna try and cut out a little star, so then, you know

it's one of those little hidden things I quite

like to try and put if I can.

But, it's so difficult to do this kind of technical piece

under semi-final's pressure.

It's like, you know, it's really...really hard.

- Hi, Dan. - Hello.

You're so close to the final.

[sighs] It's getting there, isn't it?

Judges were very happy with you yesterday.

They seem to like it, didn't they? It was good. Yeah.

- 'Congratulations.' - Thank you.

Have you made engagement rings before?

I have, I've done a few. Not massive, but a few.

- Yeah, it's lovely thing to do. - Yeah!

This is gonna be on there for at least

couple of years in there.

[laughing]

A good 18 months.

[Dan laughs]

'What's your wife thinks about the competition?'

Yes, she is thrilled, she's really

pleased how far I've gone.

Did you design her wedding ring?

I did do her wedding ring, yeah, yeah.

It was in similar style to the one I'm doing today, actually.

It was sort of twisty

and, yeah, it's been with me while this stuff.

I don't know why I didn't bring it to the competition, you know.

Well, you'd be disappointed if you make a ring

similar to your wife's wedding ring.

And the judges don't like it.

Um, no! Because I'd still love it.

You know what I mean, I'd stand by..

I love, I really like making this stuff.

Um, so, yeah, I'm, I'll still be happy.

(female narrator) Having failed to impress with his cuff bracelet

Sonny wants to secure a place in the final by complimenting

his robust style with more refined elements.

His bezel-set diamond will be embellished

with smaller diamonds and set on a twisted band of gold.

I always look at the setting as the house for the stone.

It's where it's gonna live in.

You want it to be as functional as possible.

So, you're slightly changing the look of your jewel this week.

- Yes. - Why is that?

I feel like I've been, I wouldn't say one dimensional

but I've been very consistent in what I have been producing.

And I wanna show a little bit of diversity to you guys

and, uh, I can do...something

little bit more finer, little bit more feminine.

Have you incorporated the client's brief?

- On the blank side. - 'Yeah.'

I'm gonna be setting three stones.

Yeah.

And the, I've got three granules either side.

And all the three's symbolize

the child about to enter their life.

So, the idea is, your mum, dad and then the future child.

And what about if they get more children?

Just add a diamond?

Stick a little diamond in there.

[laughing]

Okay, good. Well, I look forward to seeing it.

Thanks, Solange. Cheers!

(female narrator) Tamara is sticking to her usual style of organic shapes.

But she also wants to give her engagement ring

the feeling that it's hundreds of years old.

And to do that, she's going for an unconventional setting.

How's it all going so far?

I am taking an massive risk with my design.

- Yeah? - 'Of course.'

I am going to...set the diamond into molten metal.

Okay.

So, I'll make a square setting.

And then I'm gonna pop the diamond in.

And then heat the whole thing up.

'And the idea is, the metal just contracts around the stone.'

- Yeah. - 'And that's it. It's set.'

What will it mean to you if this ring goes to plan?

If this ring goes to plan..

...regardless of everything else it'd be massive win for me.

As in terms of the design or in a maker.

Because I have never set princess cut stone

a diamond like this before.

So, huge win for me, personally.

I think it sounds really beautiful.

I hope it'll all goes to plan.

I really hope it does.

Because if it doesn't, that's it. But, hey--

Sometimes you have to take a risk.

Yeah, I really wants to try it.

(female narrator) A natural diamond takes between

one and three billion years to form.

And even though they're strong enough to cut

through most materials

they're not indestructible.

The biggest risk involved is the stone will overheat and go dull.

And then, it's all gone wrong.

Can't really salvage it after that.

'But I've got to give it a go.'

It's going all black. Just a flame.

'Oh, Lord!'

Hmm, well, the stone is still sparkling.

But the setting...has cracked

on the side.

I'm going to take a risk.

Setting it again.

Okay.

Second time lucky.

[dramatic music]

'Bing!'

'The diamond's still shiny and intact.'

'Yeah. Happy!'

Good as a cartwheel across the floor.

(female narrator) The word "diamond" comes from the Greek adamas

meaning invincible.

So at the half way point

who looks diamond to the judges?

Shaun, you've been around.

'Are any of the jewelers making you wanna marry them today?'

- They are, actually. - 'Oh, yeah?'

'These little heart flutters, "Where has that come from?"'

(Katherine) 'Ah! Let's start with Hugo.'

(Shaun) 'Okay. Hugo is executing his perfectly.'

It's looking really refined.

It's looking really neat.

And design-wise, do you like

what you're seeing more than yesterday?

He's making a very classic

traditional, good engagement ring.

But I think maple leaves might be a little bit obvious.

Bit literal.

Well, Hugo's light was off this morning

so was Sonny's.

Is Sonny redeeming himself today?

I'm seeing...what I've wanted to see for quite a while.

'I'm seeing some real precise goldsmithing going on.'

'But just hope at the very last minute'

he doesn't over-do it with his embellishing

and destroy that clean balance that he's got.

Is Dan evolving?

This morning, when I looked around

I wasn't so impressed.

'Of his refinement of his setting today.'

But, he could just turn it around as he does.

'So with Tamara, I'm really proud of her.'

She's taking a risk.

Her technique is really fearless.

And her confidence is shining through.

When the going gets tough

so does Tamara.

Indeed!

[instrumental music]

(female narrator) The bands that fits around the finger

is also called the shank.

And each of the jewelers are making theirs

in different ways.

It's gonna be three sections soldered together.

'And I really like the shape.'

So this is the part where I'm twisting up the-the

band or the shank of the ring.

Just go rough in this middle part

get that twisted a bit tighter.

'Cause when you bend it around into...the ring shape

they'll wanna have a tendency to open up.

(female narrator) To join the shank of the engagement ring

to the setting requires the jewelers

to have a steady hand.

So, this is one of the most important moments

so far...basically lining up the shank

'to make sure it's straight.'

'Cause, obviously, if it's leaning to one side

or if there's any kind of bend

once I solder it, there's very little

what I can do to repair that, to rectify that.

(Sonny) 'This is a crucial part'

''cause it's where it becomes a ring.'

It's gotta be a strong joint.

Because it's a daily-wear ring.

Hm!

'Madness!'

(female narrator) But Dan's design requires soldering

of the utmost precision

to avoid melting the joint that'll hold

the three sections of his shank together.

♪ Wow-wow pum-pum ♪♪

Well, adds a little something to today's pressure levels.

I use the same method again.

It's like, go out doing the same thing over and over

and expecting different results.

It's okay. We're still on.

Don't worry, jewelers.

She can't say no. She's already married to him.

Whatever happens.

One hour, jewelers. One hour left!

(Hugo) 'It's got me twitching, shh!'

She's mad! Yeah, she's very, very tight.

(female narrator) But the crucial element of any diamond ring

is, of course, the diamond.

(Sonny) The big dog's going in.

[instrumental music]

I'm drilling a little hole into where each point goes.

And in corner of each diamond is gonna sort of

fit into that hole.

My heart's racing up, I can't lie. My heart is racing.

It's starting to sweat.

[laughs]

This is my last chance, you know.

So...I got no room for error.

No time for mistakes.

He's already trapped her with the baby.

So, if you crack the diamond, she still has to stay with him.

(female narrator) To add to the pressure

Sonny and Dan still have to set their small melee diamond.

Utter panic, though. I've got to set..

It's 12 stones in last 30 minutes.

But...let's not cry about it.

Let's get it done!

Go on, you slippery sausage.

If there's one thing, you cannot rush.

The same thing is you can hardly see with your eyes.

All you're doing is lifting metal up from the surface

and creating claws with this small tool.

I've got them in, but they're just not up to

the kind of standard I would like to see.

'Proper clown shoes as I'd like to say.'

How long have we got?

Ten minutes, jewelers!

Ten minutes left in the challenge!

[instrumental music]

(Dan) Oh! What a mess.

One of the stone isn't quite set right.

I'll tell you what, though. Ain't bad.

I kinda didn't knock it. It's still pretty nice.

Or maybe not semi-final nice.

That's a quick way to break the stone.

[bleep]

Eh!

[instrumental music]

Two minutes!

[squeals]

Hugo.

It's a wrong finger, Hugo.

(Katherine) 'Tamara is putting her ring on it.'

[music continues]

'Hugo, you gotta put a ring on that finger.'

She's over 35!

Three, two, one.

[beeps]

'Congratulations, jewelers.'

That's your Bespoke challenge of the semi-finals.

Well done!

[chuckling]

- 'That was intense, huh?' - Yeah.

[exhales deeply]

(female narrator) After just five hours

each jeweler has made an nine carat gold engagement ring

with a one carat princess cut diamond.

But who has managed to combine their signature style

with Claire and James's love story

and enough technical skill

to take them to the grand final.

Let's start with Sonny's. Shaun?

The minute I look at this engagement ring, I think

that is a Sonny engagement ring.

But I would find this ring quite heavy.

There's elements of clumsiness to the ring.

Oh!

For this challenge, I'm looking for...perfection

in technique.

The shank is quite dented and quite marked

and the graduation from the twisted wire..

...is a little uneven.

And the square setting is little bit off.

(Solange) 'He's thought about the client brief.'

The twisted...intertwined couple that they are.

And the three of them, the baby, and then there's a couple.

The ring definitely has the endurance for a lifetime's wear.

So, he's put as much kind of toughness in the

'ring as there is in diamond.'

All in all, a very distinctive and out of the ordinary piece.

(Solange) 'We can see Tamara's signature in this.'

And I think she's made something

really beautiful and refined

'and feminine.'

She hasn't overwhelmed the diamond.

And she used a very tricky technique.

I'm not sure...there is the much of the client in there.

It looks like something that you'd see in museum

from Ancient Greeks.

'I love that!'

Piece of jewelry that's been dug up

thousands of year ago.

So, when you say something looks like dug up

that's compliment?

That's a compliment.

'Cause when someone said it about me once and

I didn't feel like they're being nice.

[laughing]

Unfortunately, the shank is not aligned

totally straight with the stone.

But in a kind of ancient looking piece like that

that's something can be passed.

One must not forget this lovely technique that she has used.

And I must say that the outcome is very pretty.

[instrumental music]

(Shaun) 'I can see Dan's signature.'

'Handwriting coming through his design.'

If I look at this ring closer.

I was expecting a little bit more

from the execution of this ring.

There's elements of the setting that are slightly unfinished

they're quite rough and could've been bit more polished.

There is a beautiful element to this as well

where Dan has incorporated the client's story.

He's actually put a star underneath

the main central diamond setting

because the client has a fascination with stars.

(Solange) It's super clean and sharp.

The shank is lovely.

He's got his kind of twisted wave effect.

It just seems like a slightly more generic style to me.

'It's something that I've seen before'

and I-I don't know whether he's put

enough design or thought into it.

[dramatic music]

(Solange) 'Hugo's ring is a very refined and'

'well-made piece of jewelry.'

But I really feel like it's an incredibly simple

claw set ring that you can almost buy anywhere

'with a couple of leaves put on the side.'

I would have liked to seen a little bit more

from Hugo.

Being trained as a goldsmith as Hugo is..

...we have this classical thinking that

any engagement ring should be classic, timeless

and have a little subtle detail which connects...to the wearer.

So, I this he's achieved that.

I really feel for these jewelers.

Because they do want to impress you.

But equally, their job as a jeweler

is to impress this client.

And you are very different to the client.

Different is fine. We all like the same thing.

You know what my mother always said

"If we all like the same thing

we'd all be married to your father."

[laughing]

(female narrator) But before the judges can decide

who will leave the "All The Glitters" workshop..

- James, welcome back! - Thank you.

(female narrator) ...James has to choose one of the rings for his wife Claire

to replace the one they had stolen in a burglary.

So, James, first that I'm going to draw your attention to

was done by Dan.

- Wow! - 'Yup.'

So intricate!

Next ring was created by Tamara.

I love the, um, texture on this one as well.

(Katherine) 'Hugo!'

That's so impressive, I didn't think

you could get that one. A lot of detail there.

'Oh, my God! They are so skilled.'

(Katherine) 'James, this final ring was created by Sonny.'

I really liked that touch, the three diamonds on the side.

So, I'm going to leave you.

You've got a big decision to make.

Yeah. It's gonna be a difficult decision.

Don't mess it up!

Okay.

(Katherine) 'Just kidding, James.'

[James laughing]

I think the judges were particularly brutal today.

But rightly so. It's semifinal.

I think i-it's so tight in there

sort of neck and neck the whole way.

(Dan) It sort of feels quite personal, you know.

Because it's something you've sort of struggled with

to try and get just how you like it

and you think it's great, and then don't like it.

So, yeah, of course, it's difficult.

I came here because I wanted an adventure

I wanted to learn, I wanted to push myself.

So, now, that the final was literally within my grasp

I want to go all the way, definitely.

(female narrator) But whose dazzling dreams will come to an end

at the last post.

Wow! It is interesting times.

So, what are you generally thinking because..

...someone has to leave us today?

Tamara, where's your head at?

She made a beautiful cuff yesterday.

'And she's made a really pretty ring today.'

I love seeing Tamara's fearlessness.

Hmm, it's nice to see, isn't it?

What about Dan?

'You two didn't like the design of'

'Dan's diamond engagement ring, did you?'

Oh, I can mind it. He did well in his challenge.

But not as good as I anticipated.

I just think I've seen that look quite a lot.

- What about Hugo? - Technically, he's good.

For me, he's been a little bit up and down.

(Solange) 'He's done great some weeks and not so great other weeks.'

And I don't think this was his best week.

'Certainly not from a design perspective.'

Sonny is very much at the beginning of his journey.

But he sometimes tries to run before he can walk.

And we saw that with the cuff.

We want to see star quality.

We want to see somebody who's going to leave

'this competition and start on that journey.'

There's only a few of them here

who've got a strong enough voice.

(female narrator) But who the judges send home

partly depends on whose

engagement ring the client chooses.

Jewelers, congratulations on completing

two tough, tough challenges.

'Of course, this is the semi-final'

'so the standard was so high!'

'It's time to find out now'

whose engagement ring James has chosen for Claire.

James, who have you chosen and why?

So, uh, it was really difficult choosing.

'Incredibly difficult, but I think that this ring is..'

'...elegant and subtle'

'and it's perfect enough ring that I want to-to give her.'

So, the person's ring that I've chosen

is...Dan.

[applause]

And I wanted to propose to you again.

- Are you okay? - Yeah.

- 'You okay?' - 'Yeah.'

It's absolutely beautiful. Thank you so much.

That's great!

I absolutely love it, yes. Uh, stunning!

'It's just so special.'

You did very well.

You did very well!

(Katherine) 'I can also reveal who's been chosen as Jeweler of the Week'

'in the semi-final.'

The judges felt that this person pushed boundaries

and took chances to create two stunning pieces.

'That jeweler is..'

...Tamara!

[applause]

(Dan) 'Well done!'

[laughing] Thanks!

I know that everyone really brought their best

to the table this week

'which is why it makes saying goodbye to someone'

especially difficult.

'But it has to be done.'

I promise you, it was the hardest decision

I have ever seen the judges make.

So, the jeweler leaving the workshop today is..

[dramatic music]

...Sonny.

'Well done, Sonny.'

[applause]

Cheers, guys!

You did so well. Everyone did so well. It's just..

These guys are too good for me. Too good for me.

It's been an honor, it's been wicked, honestly.

- Smashing! - Well done!

[applause]

(Sonny) Obviously, gutted to go home.

But coming from self-taught background

and being involved in this process has just give me

that drive to be like, you know what

you're actually half-decent.

Just keep pushing with your work

keep trying to push my designs.

But 100% you're still gonna go see the last of me.

I've.. This game's wicked.

It's good fun, it's creative.

And...yeah, I ain't got over this.

You know what, you're star and you're on the road already.

- Thank you. - 'You really are!'

He is self-taught jeweler

'and he's got an identity, a strong one.'

But I think where we are today, it's the semi-final.

I need to see fusion of design and polished technique.

And some of the other jewelers have more of that.

'Next week is the final.'

'I'm really excited about this because'

we've had Dan and Hugo who've had this battle going on

the whole series.

But then, we have the silent Tamara

who just comes around and shocks us all.

Who knows who could win this competition?

I really have no idea.

[instrumental music]

[theme music]