All language subtitles for All.That.Glitters.S01E04.WEBRip.x264-ION10[eztv.re]

(Katherine) Unlike cakes, jewelry lasts forever

which after a little break for something called a pandemic

means the precious metals and gems, in our workshop

are just where we left them.

And our five remaining jewelers return to the workshop

to continue their quest to become the next big name

in jewelry.

Sort of, jump in there.

(Katherine) They'll have their mettle tested

in two socially distanced challenges

creating a piece everyone will want in the bestseller..

I think this is where we've really got to

start pulling out all the stops.

(Katherine) ...before making a one off for someone special

in the bespoke..

This is really, really sweet.

I never thought of a rebirth in that sort of way.

(Katherine) ...all to impress two of the biggest names in the industry

legendary jewelry maker Shaun Leane..

So it's the quarter-finals, there is no room for errors.

(Katherine) And iconic jewelry designer Solange Azagury-Partridge.

When you can't see how something is made

I think that's a very successful piece of jewelry.

(Katherine) To win they'll have to prove not only their

technical ability but design prowess.

Big hands, tiny things, it's gonna be a struggle.

(Katherine) Or they'll have to leave the workshop.

Oh, ah! Thing is, I've already got a problem.

(Katherine) Who will be their worth their weight in gold?

(Lee) The hinge is the, the pivotal point.

In more ways than one.

(Katherine) And who will sink like a stone?

It's all going wrong! It's melted!

- Are you done? - I think so.

- Where is it? No! - There. In the bin.

(Katherine) This is "All That Glitters."

The jewelry quarter in Birmingham

boasts more jewelers than anywhere else in Europe.

And now it's home to "All That Glitters" workshop.

So since the last challenge, um,

a pretty big step has been taken.

We've had a baby, and he is the best.

Here he is. Little tiny Rudy.

And he's most handsome little devil

you ever going to see in all your life.

Got to make the little man proud, don't I?

When my piece was chosen by the client

it was just fantastic.

Couldn't have been better news for me.

I-I don't believe in myself enough.

I can do it, I've just got to get on with it, and be brave.

(Dan) So I've had quite a bit criticism

that I don't have my own design style.

So I'm going to bring more of what I kind of do generally

and hopefully it'll be well received.

(Katherine) The first challenge our jewelers face

tests their ability to design and make a piece of jewelry

that's the next must have, "The Best Seller."

Good morning, jewelers. There's just five of you left.

So it's time to really turn up the heat on your challenges.

Look down at your tables. Yes.

'You are dealing with one of the most precious materials'

known to man...gold!

'Adored by the big three.'

Ancient Egyptians, pirates and Chloe Kardashian.

'We're going to ask you to make hoop earrings.'

Shaun and Solange, over to you.

For thousands of years gold hoop earrings

have been a symbol of status and power

'and your design must embody this.'

Your hoop earrings must match or mirror each other perfectly.

But remember, you have a limited amount of gold.

So every grain counts.

They can be continuous or open, that's up to you.

But they need to sit beautifully and move freely.

(Katherine) 'We're giving you five hours, jewelers.'

And that five hours starts now. Good luck!

[instrumental music]

I like gold!

There's something about it, ain't it?

It's just the allure!

The gold standard.

It's bourgeoisie.

Chic.

(Katherine) This is the first time in the competition

that our jewelers have had to make something

to impress the judges just using gold.

(Hugo) I mean this is a little bit nerve-wracking.

I think this is where we've really got to

start pulling out all the stops.

(Katherine) It's their chance to create a piece that reflects

their unique style, but also has mass appeal.

And because it's pair of earrings

they'll have to do it twice.

(Dan) I love gold. I don't really make hoops very often.

I do a lot of studs, people like studs.

But I don't do an awful lot of hoops.

It's just making sure that they're gonna be

perfect mirrors. Hopefully, it'll be fine.

(Katherine) Gold hoop earrings have been around

since the Egyptians and were worn as

a symbol of wealth, unity and strength.

Nowadays, whether modest or overstated

their ability to empower hasn't diminished.

Shaun is one of the UK's most highly acclaimed

hoop earring designers.

His famous talon and claw like designs

take a modern twist on the classic circular shape.

His hoops are always among his best selling pieces.

Shaun, I love gold. I've come today dressed as a trophy wife.

What are the challenges that can make gold hard to work with?

(Shaun) Because gold is so soft, especially while they're making

a hoop earring, it could lose it's shape quite easily.

So hence, while we are working with nine carat..

Gold is made up of 24 parts. 24 carat gold is 24 parts gold.

And nine carat gold is nine parts.

And the remaining is silver, zinc and copper.

I didn't really know what carats meant.

That they were cutting it with cheaper metals.

Let me check my wedding ring.

[laughs]

Fourteen?

But there's a good part of that.

Because these alloys make the gold harder.

So when we make a hoop earring in nine carat gold

it can keep it's form.

(Katherine) How would this challenge test them?

(Shaun) Well, a hoop may look like a simple piece of jewelry

but a hoop to make is actually quite difficult.

And to mirror perfectly is really challenging.

And I want them to introduce their design signature

it's the quarter-finals, this is gold.

- 'Mm-hmm.' - There is no room for errors.

(Katherine) To make their hoop earrings, the jewelers have each been

given exactly 12 grams of nine carat gold in various forms.

Self-taught jeweler, Sonny, has decided to go back to basics

to make his hoop earrings

and has chosen to work with gold grain.

(Sonny) This is the traditional way.

This is the way they would've done hundreds

maybe thousands of years ago.

(Katherine) Tamara is using gold sheet.

And Dan, Hugo and Lee are all starting with gold wire.

[instrumental music]

Last time he was in the workshop

Lee's bib necklace was chosen by the bespoke client.

So wanting to build on his success

he's making a pair of hoops

that show his more intricate skills.

Morning, Lee. Tell me about your design.

Um, so I've gone for a sort of cosmic look.

If you think of the sort of NASA symbol

with the, the planetary rings..

'I've gone for that sort of double-hoop lock.'

'And then I'm adding an overall texture'

'but a different texture to each hoop'

'so that the internal would be just plain polished.'

I'm gonna be looking for, really strict mirroring today.

Have you thought about that?

I've not made life easy for myself

'cause I've got rather than two hoops

I've got four hoops in total.

It's getting it right now with these stages

and then the soldering where the points cross.

And if I get that right then they should..

...they should be okay.

- Yeah. Fingers crossed. - Yeah. That's the plan.

(Katherine) Hugo has always impressed technically

but he hasn't always kept to the brief.

So he's hoping his dragonfly design

will have the golden touch on both counts.

(Hugo) Right now I'm separating the different

little segments of the tail.

Each segment I cut I match it up to the other one

making sure each part is symmetrical.

Hi, Hugo. So you doing a dragonfly?

(Hugo) 'I just thought it would look delicate, eye catchy.'

'And I think the way it would'

'sit on the ear would look beautiful.'

And you're going to turn those tails into hoops?

The tails are going to be running in line with the hoop.

Oh! How're you going to bend them?

(Hugo) If I was to bend these now

I run risk of cracking the metal.

So what we're gonna have to do to soften it

is to heat up till the metal's sort of like a cherry red

kinda color and then I'm gonna be able to bend it up apart.

So you put it all together first and then you heat and bend it?

Yeah. Gold is beautiful. It's a beautiful metal to work in.

So gold is precious, common

flexible like me.

- Alright. I love it, Hugo. - 'Thank you.'

(Katherine) Like Hugo, Dan has always impressed on the technical side

but the judges have been pushing him to discover

his own signature style.

- Hi, Dan. How're you doing? - Hello. Very well, thank you.

I can see you like those quite fluid, organic shapes?

Yeah. I just love the movement of water and so

'I came over the sweeping curves that are flying into each other'

but should look like the rippling surface of a lake.

But there's also the symmetry

'cause your design is very organic.

That's going to be the tricky bit I think, isn't it?

(Dan) I making 'em side by side each piece.

I'm-I'm happy that they're gonna look pretty perfect.

- Okay. Confidence! - I'm open. Confidence!

(Dan) 'Got to have the bloody confidence!'

(Katherine) Sonny's individual rustic style

has always impressed the judges.

But as he's self-taught

he's keen to showcase his skills.

So he's melting gold grain down and turning it into an ingot

obviously.

(Sonny) I've chosen to do it this way

because this is what I do day to day.

Because it gives me the flexibility and freedom

to be out to make whatever shape wire or sheet I need to make.

I'm not restricted to material I've bought.

- Sonny. - 'Hello.'

- You had a baby. - We had a baby.

Well, you've certainly bounced back.

Your figure is completely back to normal. Looking on point.

Speaking of aesthetics, what're you making for me today?

(Sonny) 'So I'm making something which is ancient inspired'

'Roman-Grecian, that kind of period.'

It's a take on a classic hoop

but you've got the flared flicky ends at the top.

And you've also got granulation on the inside.

The whole idea of what I'm doing

is something that can be worn everyday.

I think that's super important.

That's exactly how I feel, I have a few delicate hoops

that I like to wear everyday.

And the bigger they get..

I have to take them out to have a fight.

But taking them out is like

I'm serious, I'm not messing about.

Say, it'd be the same as tyin' your hair up.

Maybe they are good, just a good warning.

A warning hoop removal and then you don't actually

have to be violent at all.

And that's the best way to solve a problem.

- See you later. - See you in a bit.

Always wanted to make a kind of nod to ancient

gold hoop earrings.

Classic design that people could wear again and again.

(Katherine) Tamara often looks to the past for inspiration for her

But today she's also adding a hint of mother nature

with her three dimensional crescent moon hoops.

- Hi, Tamara. - Hello.

Your design seems quite traditional.

(Tamara) 'I'm not going for a classic wire hoop.'

'I'm looking at something more sculptural.'

A fat puffy moon shape

'giving the earrings the illusion of being quite chunky'

but they're actually hollow.

And will the solder be invisible?

- Seamless? - Hopefully.

(Solange) 'That's the intention though.'

The intention is that it looks..

More seamless is the better. Yeah.

(Katherine) But getting a seamless finish on both earrings

means Tamara's going to need to make

four identical moon shapes.

To get her 3D moons

she's placing a sheet of gold in a mold

and then applying one and a half tons of pressure

using a hand operated fly press.

[instrumental music]

But if she applies too much pressure,

or too little pressure, her pieces won't be identical

making it difficult to achieve a flawless finish

when they're soldered together.

Slipped.

(Katherine) And she's only got four sheets of gold to make four

It worked!

'Yay!'

'Could be a bit thinner.'

Could be a bit, little bit more sculptural.

But it's like a nice crisp outline, so, yeah, it's good.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) To guarantee both their hoops are identical

the jewelers must ensure all their gold elements

are symmetrical.

[sighs]

(Dan) Little bit worried about the, the mirroring up.

One of them is a fraction longer than I want it to be.

But I'm just gonna chop a little bit off instead.

I'm gonna take my time making sure each

each wing is measured correctly because if I slip up here

it's really going to throw the whole piece off.

(Lee) Got these hopefully the right size so they match each other.

It's gonna be awkward to-to alter it later

so it needs to be got right first time.

(Katherine) Once each element of the hoop is formed

it's back to the old classic skill of soldering

their various parts together.

Shaun's obviously a bit of a, a stickler for soldering

and rightly so.

That's like jewelry 101..

Is joining pieces together and if you can't do that right

it's like...bloody Nora.

(Katherine) But this time it's even harder because gold solder

has a very similar melting point to nine carat gold.

(Hugo) 'It's got me a little bit nervous, this.'

[Hugo chuckles softly]

(Katherine) The jewelers need to focus their flames precisely

on the small pieces of gold solder.

[instrumental music]

(Sonny) I think the most important thing is

knowing when to pull away.

'Cause it's very easy to be like

"Oh, no, I need a bit more heat"

and then it will melt very, very quickly.

My hand still shakes a lot more than it does of my wife.

Actually, it's just the pressure of it all.

(Katherine) It's crucial to get gold soldering right the first time

as gold retains heat so multiple attempts

increases the risk of melting the rest of the piece.

[Tamara exhales]

(Lee) 'Got to be careful. It'll have to be a minute.'

Not ideal. This solder joint popped to the top and moved.

See how it's popped apart.

So I need to solder it back in, in place

but obviously they need to be lined up.

It's bloody annoying when it happens.

[instrumental music]

'This is all going wrong. It's melted!'

It sure is.

[clinking]

[deep breath]

[bleep]

- 'Hi, Lee. How's it going?' - Hi, Katherine.

So are you're feeling on top of this challenge?

- I was. - Oh-oh.

Until I melted one of the hoops.

'What does that mean? Can that be recovered?'

Got to take it apart.

Try and straighten it out. Story of my life.

Oh, well, you what, the design is still there.

- We got one good one so far. - Yeah!

Burn the other one and then they mirror.

It's not what goes wrong

but it's obviously how you roll with the punches.

- We gotta fix it! Gotta fix it. - Gotta fix it! Okay.

- 'Hi!' - 'Hello.'

I'm just having a nose. How you doing?

The thing is, I've already got a problem.

- 'The solder line.. Yeah!' - It's come through?

(Tamara) I don't want to flood it with loads of solder

because you're not really meant to do that, are you?

- 'Mmm.' - So.. Uhm..

I suppose the main thing is to get them finished.

- Get them finished. - Get them finished.

Get a nice pair, and then if there's still a problem

then maybe think that in the very last minute.

Yeah?

- 'Yeah?' - Yes.

Fifteen minutes, jewelers!

And then you'll let the digger see the gold.

[exhales]

[instrumental music]

I'm just sort of putting off making the hinge.

[chuckles] That's what I'm doing at the moment.

(Katherine) The part of the earring that goes through the ear lobe

is called a finding.

They can be made in different ways.

The most simple to make are hooks.

(Hugo) This earring's going to hang from the ear

like a classic kind of drop.

I'm just slowly bending this into shape.

(Katherine) But with a place in the semi-final at stake

Dan and Lee are out to impress

and are making a hinged earring finding.

(Dan) They're the fiddliest bit to make.

And the tiny little intricate stuff's quite, quite tricky.

It's a sort of a hook way of fitting

'that will drop down into place and be the catch.'

'The first one is in, on to the next one now.'

- Are you making the hinge? - The hook wire?

Are they giving that to us?

- No.. Make it. Yeah. - Oh, you're makin' it? Nice.

(Sonny) I've just gone for a straight butterfly back post.

And yes, the hinge will show skill.

But I think from a best seller perspective

and also from a production perspective

it's easier for the posts.

Cool!

Five minutes, jewelers!

Disastrous, man!

[instrumental music]

Just clean this up, make sure this is pretty.

(Tamara) 'Ahhh!'

That was really stressful.

I hope the joint's strong enough.

[music continues]

I'm just puttin' the last bits of texture on now really.

I'm not going to be be able to disguise that there.

It's okay if you hold you thumb there 'cause you don't see it.

Two meters kids, two meters.

I feel like a chaperone at a school dance.

Yes.

- Leave room for Jesus, please. - Jesus!

I finished, I think. I'm gonna go and try and inspect them

and hope that there's no sort of last minute races.

- Are you done? - I think so.

- Where is it? - There. In the bin.

- No. - No! Get it on your plinth!

[sighs]

Very nice.

But the seams are split though.

- Ooh! - Sixty seconds remaining.

'Oh, yeah. Not even running.'

'That's the pace I go when I'm in a race.'

Time's up! Congratulations on another challenge complete.

Well done, Hugo.

[exhales]

Man, that's stress!

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) After five hours jumping through hoops

which jewelers have achieved a perfectly mirrored pair

of nine carat gold earrings

that sit beautifully on the ear.

[instrumental music]

(Solange) They look very Sonny. They've definitely got your signature.

And actually, they look like little pirate ships.

Unintentional! Unintentional!

They look like they are bobbing along

dancing on the waves like that.

(Katherine) 'They've even got kind of a octopus tentacle'

'quality to them as well.'

The one thing that I find butterflies

quite a difficult attachment.

'And they've got a very stiff, and difficult to manipulate.'

(Shaun) 'How I gauge a good piece of jewelry '

I always imagine somebody else wearing it

and if I met them, I'd be interested.

I'd be like, "Oh, they're interesting."

I would ask them about where they got them from

'and these are definitely a piece of jewelry'

'that I would ask someone where they got them from.'

Alright, let's have a look.

I like it. You feel you're wearing it, a little bit.

'Well, congratulations. They hit the criteria.'

'And I would say that if you put these into your collection'

'they would be a bestseller.'

Thank you very much.

[instrumental music]

(Shaun) There're some really good points about these earrings

and there's few little bad points about these earrings.

'Were they meant to cross over a bit more?'

I will be honest, I was expecting a little more

'from the design, when you were talking about them'

'crossing over this orb, kind of celestial kind of feel.'

I thought, "Oh, my God, we're gonna get some real play with

negative spaces there," which hasn't quite come through.

'There is a little melted area as well.'

- Too much heat, split second. - 'It was.'

(Shaun) 'And it can melt.'

The symmetry is not quite there.

The gaps are not quite right.

And from the design, I'm not sure

they're gonna have a "wow" factor.

- Okay. - 'But I have to say one thing.'

(Shaun) 'This fitting is superb.'

- That clip is great. - Thank you.

I just want to test the weight.

Movement feels good. Fitting feels really secure.

'So criteria you've hit.'

The execution of the design and what I was expecting

just let itself down.

[instrumental music]

They're a lovely shape.

'They're really well made apart from perhaps the solder line.'

But the fitting is sweet 'cause it's

it's got a lovely little ball there and a hook

and it goes through nice and invisibly.

I feel they're a little bit generic.

And I'm not sure I would recognize them to be by Tamara.

What's let you down is soldering the two halves together.

The solder hasn't run all the way around the two halves.

So therefore we get a broken line which is a shame

because with this kind of formation and volume

it's meant to look like a solid object but be hollow

so it's deceiving.

There's a little weight, which is lovely.

I feel a little swing which is good

and they feel comfortable.

'It's a very classic design.'

That is a real traditional kind of small hoop.

But we did need to see a little better view on that.

Yeah.

[instrumental music]

What I particularly like is your craftsmanship here.

And they both mirror each other perfectly.

Even where you've joined the sections.

(Solange) 'They're very fluid. They've got a beautiful wave to them.'

'And, yeah, that finding is really beautiful.'

The soldered joints, you don't really see it.

They-they're kind of seamless. Yeah.

I think they're very delicate and, and very pretty.

- Well done. - Thank you.

(Shaun) 'I particularly like the fact that you've handmade'

'the finding as well.'

'And listen to that.'

- That's a click. - 'Good click on that.'

- That's a click. - 'Yeah.'

(Shaun) 'That's so satisfying.'

That ain't going nowhere.

Little big too big for me, Dan.

Might have to get you to make a bit tiny little one.

Yeah.

[instrumental music]

(Solange) 'So, Hugo, these are very unusual.'

They are. Yes.

You've really pushed the boundary

of the concept of the hoop.

'You've really definitely put your Hugo signature on them.'

The body on the dragonfly is beautiful.

'Really tidy, solder joints are really good.'

'The mirror is good.'

'One criticism I have'

I would have loved to have seen the contrast in texture.

- Ah, okay. - 'So some polish.'

'Cause it's all matte, and familiar hoop really

should catch the light and glisten.

'I would have polished all of that body'

'much brighter than it is.'

'And maybe one of the, the lower wings'

'or one of the higher wings..'

so there's a contrast between the wings.

Yeah, yeah.

(Solange) 'My worry would be how they sit.'

'And if the wings hit the cheek.'

- Let's have a look, test. - Ohh..

No, it feels good.

It's not really touching the face much. What do you think?

(Solange) 'Tiny bit, but if it doesn't bother you.'

It's fine if it's just tickling you.

- No, it's really nice. - Maybe that's quite nice.

Feels really soft.

Jewelers very well done on another challenge complete.

When you return tomorrow morning some of your lights

maybe on, some may be off, there are no hard and fast rules.

It's down to our judges to select the fool's gold

from the 24 carat gold.

We'll see you in the morning.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) With the workshop to themselves

the judges now have to decide which jewelers have impressed

and who's lights will remain on.

But they also need to agree which lights

will be switched off.

I-I know I took a risk today.

Ah, I knew it was a big risk, but I felt like it paid off.

I'm over the moon, I couldn't be happier.

- 'Hugo's?' - 'Yes.'

(Solange) 'I think they're lovely earrings.'

(Shaun) 'And they mirror perfectly, really.'

He's always pushing, and tryin' to do more

and really trying to make something more integral

or more ornate.

'Sonny, technically they were good.'

Yeah, hopefully this week jeweler of the week.

That'd be nice.

Caught blimey!

How..

How dare I say that?

(Shaun) 'Dan's, again, just executed so well.'

And at least this time

he's brought a stronger design element.

I'm really pleased Shaun picked up on finding and the click

'cause I worked hard for that click.

- 'Tamara..' - 'They're really pretty.'

(Solange) 'And they really shine. But I just think'

they're little bit generic.

You can't tell who they are buying.

(Shaun) 'Yeah. Lee?'

(Solange) 'They do the job of a perfect pairings'

'but they're underwhelming.'

Yeah. There's quite a few technical issues in there

in the crafting unfortunately.

The day hasn't gone as I planned it to go.

There was few little mistakes, but I believe I can still

pull something out of the bag tomorrow and-and get-get on by.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) Yesterday's challenge tested our jeweler's ability

to make something which could appeal to anyone.

But today's mission is much more personal

as they'll need to respond to a bespoke brief

for a real client.

- Hello, Zeynep. - Hello.

(Katherine) Today's client is Zeynep.

She want's to commission a very special gift

for the woman's whose selfless act five years ago

saved her mother's life.

'Welcome to the "All That Glitters" workshop.'

Thank you.

I'm excited for you to tell me, about your mum Nicky

and her friend Annette.

So my mum Nicky's 55 years old now.

And about six years ago

she was diagnosed with acute myeloma leukemia.

She had four rounds of very intense chemo

but she was told that she'd need a bone marrow transplant.

And did family members test themselves as matches?

Yes. So the only people that could possibly match

is with her brother and sister

which they both tested but unfortunately didn't match her.

Oh! And how did she come to get a donation from Annette?

So, the first place the doctor's look

is on the British Bone Marrow Registry.

And they see who has the closest match to my mum.

Eventually they narrowed it down to Annette.

It was completely anonymous.

They weren't allowed to contact each other for two years.

All that we knew was that it was a lady in the UK.

That was all they could tell her.

And because Annette took those steps she saved your mum's life?

(Zeynep) Yeah, exactly that.

And I would love to know about the day your mum Nicky

and Annette finally met.

They just hit it off. They were.. It was..

'Yeah, it was amazing. It was all a bit surreal.'

'Like, this lady saved my mum.'

- 'We were meeting her finally!' - 'Wow!'

My mum and Annette now are the best of friends.

What would you like the jewelers to do for you today?

Well, it can never quite come across to thank you

but just a token to just to tell her how much we appreciate her

and how much..

...happiness she's brought back to our life.

Because without her bone marrow, stem cells

my mum probably wouldn't be here.

(Katherine) 'That's so nice. Alright, what're you thinking?'

(Zeynep) 'A locket would be beautiful.'

Something that symbolizes a new life as such

'because my mum was kind of reborn when she got her'

'her transplant..'

'Yeah.'

That would be really sweet.

They're like, they're like genetic sisters now I guess.

They are. I'm so excited.

I know the jewelers are gonna put their everything into it.

It's a beautiful story and I know that they'll be touched.

'And they'll want to make something'

beautiful to thank Annette.'

That'd be great.

(Katherine) Before the jewelers find out the task that awaits them

they're about to discover whose hoop earrings failed

to impress the judges.

If a jeweler's plinth light is on they hit the brief.

But if it's turned off that jeweler will have to

pull out all the stops in the bespoke challenge

or they'll be in danger of leaving the workshop.

Today, it's lights out for Tamara.

And for the third week in a row, Lee.

My hat-trick.

(Lee) Having my light off is definitely a

a black mark against me for today.

But I've been here before, I got to move forward

and be confident.

[whispers] I knew it.

It doesn't mean nothing.

(Tamara) I think I just need to maybe manage my time a little bit

better and just try and stay calm.

I want to be able to stay in the competition

and-and go through to the semi-final.

Good morning, jewelers. Welcome back.

Whether you lights were on or off

'the bespoke challenge is another opportunity'

'to dazzle the judges.'

This is Zeynep, who would like you to make a gold locket

'for someone very special called Annette.'

'Five years ago, Annette donated her stem cells'

'to save the life of someone she didn't know'

who was dying from leukemia.

That someone was Zeynep's mother

'who might not otherwise be with us today.'

'Only one of your designs will be chosen'

to celebrate this incredible gift of life.

Today we're stepping it up a notch.

On a technical point we want you to produce a locket

with at least one hinge that open and closes

and a clasp that holds shut.

Internal space must be big enough for keepsake.

Gold is incredibly precious

'and lends itself perfectly to celebrate'

'this emotional anniversary.'

Your locket can be any shape or size

but make sure it encapsulates this remarkable story.

This piece will be treasured for a lifetime

and could ensure your journey to the semi-finals.

So please, don't let your nerves get the best of you.

You have four hours to make something extraordinary

for Annette.

Make every moment count.

Your four hours starts now. Good luck!

[instrumental music]

(Hugo) Something like this is what makes my job worth doing

you know, something that's gonna be treasured

handed down generations hopefully.

Meaning a lot to not just one person but to a whole family.

(Tamara) I've never made a locket before.

There's not much room for error.

Yeah, it's tricky.

(Lee) It's-it's a definite challenge today.

You don't make lockets anymore.

They're punched up by a machine.

Nobody seems to hand make them.

So, a gold locket.

Something hollow but filled with emotion.

Exactly. I mean the thing about gold locket is

'you wear it close to your heart'

and it has a secret compartment

that you can put something very meaningful into.

The Victorians used to love having keepsakes

with locks of hair.

- Hair? - 'Yeah.'

(Solange) Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria

a bracelet with eight lockets

um, each containing a lock of their children's hair.

(Katherine) Tell me about the moving part element.

Well, any jewelry with moving parts

that's an whole other level of complication.

A hinge is tricky.

It has to be super precise

so that will be a true test of their skills.

What should the jewelers be thinking about today?

Well, obviously they need to think about this emotional

gift of life, actually, that has been given

from one stranger to another.

But, obviously, we really want to see the jewelers' signature.

It's a big challenge.

(Katherine) For inspiration, Zeynep has created a mood board

to help the jewelers come up with something

that's perfect for Annette.

(Sonny) The way I interpret the brief was

the gift of life.

And I don't think you can

symbolize new life better than an egg.

The hinge will be at the back.

It's gonna slide open to the side.

'And the catch is gonna be with a small bead'

'and this is going to be out to snap up and keep it shut.'

We could go absolutely pear shaped

but actually I want this to go pear shaped.

Because that's the sha..

So yeah, let's make it go pear shaped.

(Katherine) The judges want the lockets to have a space big enough

to hold a keepsake.

And the jewelers will need to cut and shape

from just two nine carat gold sheets.

Most are using a forming process called doming.

A gold sheet is placed into a doming block and hammered

with a spherical punch until it forms a rounded shape.

Sort of, jammed in there!

(Tamara) To get the sphere, we start forming up the disc

into a shallow dish shape.

You have to keep annealing the metal to keep it soft.

I'll probably have to do this ten times and hammer it up.

And each time you're stretching the metal

and bringing it in on itself to create a half sphere.

(Katherine) Once they're the right shape and size

Tamara's domes will be joined using a sliding hinge

and finished off with an engraving.

So, first and foremost, I think it's important for you to know

that your lights off weren't because

you didn't produce a beautiful pair of earrings.

If you'd manage the time better, you could've embellished it.

You could have repaired that solder line.

So that was then, today is today.

- Yes. - So..

Tell me about your design.

I'm making a sphere locket.

'I want something quite intimate.'

'So it's going to be about at a centimeter and a half.'

It's going to slide open that way..

'I want to write a message'

'that would fold up in a little concertina'

and then pop inside like that.

Beautiful sentiment.

And then it's going to have like a starburst

which is joyful and a sort of sense of emotion really.

I'm about half a millimeter out from the size I want.

So, I feel like I'm actually alright

at the moment schedule wise.

Good. That's something I don't normally hear from you.

Have you done a mechanism like this before?

No. It's a big learning curve for me, so...

- Which is okay. Yeah. - It's okay?

You know, we remove the fear of the impossible

we can create anything.

Amen!

[both laughing]

(Katherine) Hugo is making his locket with a flower

as the main feature of his design.

- Hi, Hugo. - Hello!

- I'm here to bother you again. - No, it's alright.

So what will you be, ah

symbolizing in your gold locket today?

I'm sort of symbolizing the five year anniversary

'that's gonna be represented in five petals '

'that-that's at the front.'

'That's what jewelry is about, you know.'

Having some kind of, like, meaning attached to it.

- Like, emotion attached to it. - Yeah.

(Hugo) 'You know, jewelry is one of those things that'

once you add like a, um, sentimentality to a piece

it's almost priceless whether it costs ten pounds

or three thousand pounds, you know.

It's not really how much cost it's worth is attached to it..

- Exactly! - You know?

You're talking the talk. You're like a poet.

I wouldn't say that, you know.

- Okay, I'll take that. - 'Okay, okay.'

(Katherine) 'I'm impressed, Hugo. Good luck today.'

Thank you, thank you.

- Hi, Lee. - Hi, Solange. You okay?

What are you going to do today?

(Lee) 'The design I've gone for is, um, the spark of life.'

The burst of life, if you think of stem cells

and they self-replicate.

So, I've gone with that circular cellular pattern.

'So that when it opens, the two circles'

inside it looks like a pair of stem cells.

Genetic twins.

And do you feel confident

that you're going to achieve your aims today?

I'd love to say yes, but it's just gonna

be the time factor really, isn't it?

And the nerves I suppose of-of rushing things.

Okay, well, good luck.

(Lee) 'Thank you. I'm gonna need it.'

(Katherine) Most of the jewelers are making round designs

but Dan is going for something completely different.

(Dan) 'I don't want to just make an oval locket, you know.'

So what I've decided to do

is do a very angular kind of locket.

'Usually a locket will be two halves that kinda come together'

'but I'm making mine more like a kinda box'

so it's gonna have a lid

with a copper kinda line inside the top of the box.

and then when you open the locket

I've put the Buddhist symbol for gratitude on the inside.

'So, it's saying thank you'

and hopefully it's just really crisp and clean.

Um, nice geometric shapes.

(Katherine) With just two hours of the bespoke challenge remaining

and a place in the semi-finals at stake

which jewelers are catching the eye of our judges.

Shaun, what are your thoughts today?

Initially, overall I'm impressed.

[Katherine exclaims]

(Shaun) 'What I do love about Sonny is he does think

'quite deeply about the concept.'

I'm a little bit worried that

the, the sliding hinge that he's using

'may not be snug enough.'

On a shape like an egg, that sphere has to be tight

'or it's gonna look really clumsy.'

Dan is technically there.

But the overall design I feel is a little masculine.

Now when you're creating a bespoke piece

you've really got to think about the piece

the design and the client, and marry every element.

So it's the piece they would want to wear forever.

(Katherine) 'I think Annette would like'

a tiny...milliliter of Prosecco in the locket.

[Shaun laughs]

(Shaun) Hugo has been really demonstrating definitely

this week his goldsmithing skills.

He's not pushing the boundaries in design innovation

but he has thought about the story and the sentiment.

Both Lee and Tamara are feeling the pressure today

after having their lights turned off.

(Shaun) Hmm. Well, in true Lee's style

I think he is confident technically

but when it comes to creativity, I think he panics.

Right, um..

What was I doing? What was I doing?

Oh, chipping these.

Tamara..

She's been the only one actually

who's thought about the inside and created

a really beautiful piece that goes with

inside the keepsake.

So the client can write whatever beautiful meaning

words they want on the folded paper.

(Katherine) I think Tamara responds really well

to having her plinth light turned off.

I hope nothing goes wrong between now and the finish.

(Shaun) You've seen before, anything can happen.

From soldering to polishing, so, um..

Yeah, we'll have to wait and see.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) Once the sides of their lockets are shaped

the jewelers face the most crucial task

to make sure their locket will open and close securely.

The hinge is so small you've got really be on your game

to-to get it right.

For me, I feel that the hinge is the, the pivotal point.

In more ways than one.

(Dan) Big hands, tiny things.

It's gonna be a struggle, just to hold it.

(Katherine) Lee, Dan and Hugo

are all tempting to make a three knuckle hinge.

Similar to most door hinges

the locker would open up just like a book.

(Hugo) I mean this is the crucial part of the design.

If this doesn't work then the whole thing's messed up.

So this is-this is the thing that's gonna

sort of make the piece.

The three knuckle hinge is the hardest of hinges to do

because you have to line up

three different elements of jewelry.

(Katherine) This durable hinge is made up of three pieces of gold tube

which when soldered into place on each side of the locket

should fit snugly together.

Easier said than done.

I don't.. My hands keep shaking.

[Lee sighs]

(Lee) Tricky bit now is getting the middle section soldered on.

And it all lining up and opening and closing as it should.

Fiddling with.. Fiddlesome!

[breathing deeply]

What I'll be looking for from the hinge

is that these two pieces line up

the-the line is seamless to allow the clasp to really click.

Oh, come on, come on.

I wanna hear that click when I close that.

Because when I do then I feel secure that that locket

will contain and keep what's in it safe.

(Katherine) The three metal tubes are held together

and swivel around a rivet that threads through the middle.

Gonna sort of slide in

and then I'm gonna rivet it at the end

so that's gonna create obviously the hinge.

Certainly it's delicate.

You've got to get-get into the zone.

(Katherine) But if any solder gets into the tubes

the rivet won't fit and the hinge won't work.

Get in, yeah. There we go. I think it's done.

[sighs]

That's got two bits of tiny tube on one side

one bit of tiny tube on the other side..

It fits like a glove.

(Katherine) Because of the rounded shape to Sonny and Tamara's lockets

they have to use a different and less stable sliding hinge.

(Tamara) 'Seems like all the really difficult stuff's'

'towards the end.'

(Katherine) Each half of the locket is drilled with a small hole

that is then threaded with a small wire

to join them together.

(Tamara) It's in!

That's how I can say.

Ooh, little bugger! God!

(Katherine) They might have fewer parts to line up

but if they aren't perfectly positioned

their lockets with have a gap when closed.

It's not as tight as I'd like.

You see that bit of play. Not fine.

So I'm gonna go back in.

Solder Gods be with me.

Just not getting the hinge to line up.

Too low, not good.

I'm way behind.

I really don't think I'm gonna finish.

(Katherine) Having a locket that opens is only half the equation.

The locket should close securely.

So the jeweler's next step is to add a catch.

(Tamara) Quite nerve wracking actually.

Accuracy and precision, and patience

is what's needed to make a catch.

There's a little loop that will fit in that tube

and it will hook over on to the ball.

I don't think I'm gonna make another locket in a hurry.

It's so fiddly.

It is tough to work on a piece this size.

And all it basically just requires though

is just a little bit more patience.

It's a very important part to get right

Because it is part of the function of the piece

but also if you solder it and you note it as such

you're in trouble.

[clicks]

You can hear that from under that, shake some windows!

[laughs]

Ten minutes everyone!

But another 12 hours would be good.

Don't mind staying behind after work.

(Dan) 'Got a lot of polishing' and finishing'

to make it look proper good.

Proper good.

Couldn't, couldn't be better for time right now.

'What I need to do is pin this silver plate and polish it'

'and then, I'm-I'm done.'

I'm happy.

I'm happy, I'm happy.

Whoa!

[chuckles]

Always hold your eggs.

(Lee) Just won't be finished.

It won't be polished, there'll be no textures.

There'll be no extra, um, engraved lines or anything.

No pattern.

Um...no.

Thirty seconds please.

[instrumental music]

Okay.

Oh!

I'm just gonna use bobber

to make it look like it's been hammered slightly.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) 'Three, two, one, locket down.'

- Just by the skin of my teeth. - Mm.

That was tough, wasn't it?

Mm.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) In just four hours

the jewelers have each created a hinged gold locket.

But which designs are both well executed

and meet the client's brief?

Sonny's pendant, which I can see immediately is by Sonny.

'Quite a nice large cavity'

'to put the keepsake.'

You can keep one delicious skittle inside.

- Yes. Yeah. - 'In case you get hungry.'

I'm not sure what the reference to their friendship would be?

Taste the rainbow of life!

[all laughing]

(Shaun) On the execution, the hinge is a little bit lose.

So there's a little gap between bottom and the top.

'That will get looser after time.'

'But, it is very Sonny, sitting 'em in his collection'

that would be a nice piece of jewelry

that somebody would be very happy to own.

'Lee's locket. This started off really well.'

But unfortunately, it's not complete.

We don't really have the bale which is the part

'that connects it to the chain.'

Personally I think, this would have looked really beautiful

if it was complete.

Sadly, it's not.

(Solange) 'He's done a lovely hinge.'

'I mean the inside's got a lovely deep cavity'

'for the keepsake.'

But, you know, quite obviously he hasn't managed

to get the clasp on.

Sadly because it's unfinished it didn't hit the brief.

But, had it done, it would have been

a very lovely piece of jewelry.

Hugo's actually completed the task very beautifully.

First of all, he's got the hinge that works.

And a very nice satisfying, clasp that clips shut.

If I was gonna put a very valuable, sentimental

keepsake of mine in that locket

I would feel secure that I would never lose it.

'So many wonderful textures and layers to this piece.'

This is to me, fine goldsmithing

and done in that timeline, bravo!

'What a beautiful piece of jewelry!'

Oh, man!

Tamara's this piece, number one is finished.

Which I'm very, very pleased about.

The clasp actually does have a lovely click.

'But it's really important that that hinge lines up.'

It doesn't perfectly line up.

- But, it is a beautiful object. - 'Yes.'

And the fact that it doesn't line up is a shame.

'To me it looks a bit like a pomegranate'

which is also quite a potent symbol

of life and love, isn't it?

So, I don't know if that was intentional.

'It's quite nice when things are tactile and that'

you can kinda play with them.

So that's definitely got that feel.

'Moves nicely on the chain. So she's nearly there.'

(Shaun) 'So, we have, Dan's striking'

modern contemporary version of a locket.

'I would say, maybe a little bit masculine'

'for what this brief is'

'for this very soft sentimental kind of woman.'

But, very clean hinge, very well soldered, clean.

I loved the Buddha motif inside for gratitude.

That kind of secret hidden message.

And if you listen..

[clicks]

Look at that for a click.

That's what you wanna hear when you've got a locket.

(Solange) 'It's an asymmetrical diamond shape'

'but I feel like the asymmetry isn't pronounced enough'

for it to be obvious that it's a deliberate asymmetry.

It looks just a little bit off kilter instead.

Having said that, he's-he's really made it beautifully.

But I-I think it would just be a question of whether

the client goes for it?

(Katherine) The judges have had their say, but now it's up to Zeynep.

Zeynep, welcome back.

To decide which piece will make the best locket

for her mother's life saving friend Annette.

'This one was created by Sonny.'

Yeah, this is really, really sweet.

I never thought of a, a rebirth in that sort of a way.

(Katherine) 'This next one is created by Tamara.'

I like the opening, how it's different. Twist, isn't it?

(Katherine) 'This is Hugo's.'

It's beautiful, it's different texture.

'Really nice contrast.'

Zeynep, you've got a very important decision to make.

So I'll ask the jewelers to go

'and we will reveal your choice later on.'

(Zeynep) 'Great.'

[instrumental music]

(Hugo) It'd mean a lot to me to make it through the next few stages.

The further it goes along, the harder it gets.

There's a lot of talented makers there

so it could be anyone's game.

The angular thing, I think may-maybe

I should've softened it a bit, but you know, I really liked it.

If the client chose my piece I'd been beaming.

You can get better, it's like, that-that's what this

this whole job, career, craft is about.

It's giving something to someone that they can love and cherish.

Judges, it's been another week of very tough challenges.

'Who under performed?'

Well, I think Tamara put a lot of thought into the locket.

But I still don't know what the Tamara piece is.

Yeah, I agree with that actually. What's her identity?

What's her handwriting? I've seen glimmers of it.

But then she withdraws.

With Lee, I think he's running before he can walk.

I love passion and drive, and ambition, of course.

But he's not at that level yet.

I think Lee is a panicker.

I think if he'd done this at home in his own time

he might have completed the task.

Who do you like for jeweler of the week?

Sonny puts a lot of thought

and depth into his work, which I really like.

He's got a lot of romance and a lot of energy, Sonny, hasn't he?

Hugo has done two very nice jobs actually.

Beautifully produced, beautifully made.

Lovely design intention there as well.

The only negative is

it's very bordering on the line of quite classic.

For a young, blossoming jewelry designer-maker

I'd like to see a little bit of contemporary

coming through there.

Well, you have a lot to decide very, very quickly.

'Shall we bring back the jewelers?'

I think we should.

[exhales]

(Katherine) The judges will be taking the client's choice of locket

into account before making their final decision

on the jeweler of the week, and the person going home.

Jewelers, congratulations on completing

your toughest challenges yet.

It's time now to reveal whose locket

Zeynep has chosen for Annette.

'The woman who saved her mother's life.'

(Zeynep) 'So the locket I've chosen..'

I loved the way that the brief was interpreted

and what it'd come out with was something that

'I would've never thought of.'

'It's really dainty and pretty and intricate'

which I think Annette will absolutely love.

And it's also got a little space just inside

which means that my mum can write a little something

for Annette that she can carry around with her all the time.

And that person is..

[instrumental music]

Sonny!

[applauding and cheering]

- Well done! - Well done, Sonny!

Well, it means a lot. Thank you.

Especially to make something for such a special occasion as well.

- Thank you. - 'Oh, she's gonna love it.'

Yeah, it was just completely different.

I don't, I don't know what I expected but it was..

Yeah, a really interesting, take on it.

- I really like it. - I'm being shy now.

[all laugh]

Unusual.

Jewelers, I also have the honor of revealing

who the judges chose as the jeweler of the week.

That person demonstrated wonderful goldsmithing

great ideas, and excelled in both challenges.

That jeweler is..

'Hugo.'

- Hey! - Well done, Hugo!

(Hugo) 'Alright, thank you. Thank you. Thank you.'

[applauding]

Really wasn't expecting that. Thank you so much.

- Thank you very much. - Pleasure, well done.

This is the part that I dread.

You're all so talented

but we know that someone's leaving today

'as only four jewelers can reach the semi-final.'

'The person leaving today..'

...is Lee.

- It's okay. It's okay. - 'Well done, Lee.'

- Thank you. - Well done, Lee.

Thank you, thank you.

(Lee) I'm sad to be going home

but it's been a fantastic experience.

I'm gonna take so much away with me.

And now I can sit down and process it.

And-and move forward in-in my own career.

(Solange) I feel sad that Lee's going because he does have potential

but I suppose he wasn't able to express himself

in the time that we had.

- Thank you so much. - No, it was amazing.

You did amazing. I just loved that. I think it's really cute.

Absolutely made it up that the client chose my piece.

There's no greater compliment

for such a special thing as well.

Absolutely made it up. I'm speechless.

The way you did those dragonfly's was so beautiful.

Seriously?

I couldn't be happier.

I put my heart into these pieces.

It's really starting to get real.

On to the next challenge, you know.

Even though I've done well this week, you know, next week

I-I can't afford to slip up.

I've been really impressed by what I've seen this week.

But next week is the semi-final.

There is no way to hide.

They really have to exceed on their design

their technical skills and their delivery.

[instrumental music]

[theme music]