Original subtitles

(Katherine) If I gave you diamonds and pearls

would you be a happy boy or girl?

Yes, prince, I would.

But the rest of you don't stress

because up and down the land there's an army of jewelers

creating beautiful, wearable works of art

just to make you sparkle.

[instrumental music]

And we're on the hunt for the next

breakthrough star in the industry.

Can you imagine Lady Gaga at a cocktail party

wearing this with a live slug inside?

When we began, eight up-and-coming jewelers

came to showcase their skills.

We have a big hole. Job done.

But now only six remain.

I can feel the pressure build. Yeah.

Each week they must tackle two challenges..

You don't want it to look panicked.

You want it to look like that's

that's how you intended it to be.

...the bestseller, to create jewelry everyone will want..

I think I would feel like a mermaid queen wearing that.

It's just layer upon layer of glitz and glam.

...and a unique and totally bespoke piece

for a real client.

Can't say I have, uh, made anything

for a drag queen before.

I will repay you all for your hard work.

And then you'll be like, "Oh, my gosh"

and death drop to the ground.

I will 100% split my jeans.

As they try and impress two of the biggest names

in the business

legendary jeweler to the stars, Shaun Leane..

Beetle wings. These are so beautiful.

I've used these in my work as well.

...and iconic jewelry designer Solange Azagury-Partridge.

It's not matte and it's not polished. It looks a bit dull.

But to take the crown, they'll have to come up

with original designs..

- This is breast milk. - What?

...and perfect their techniques.

The process is called whacking.

Each challenge, they must sparkle and shine.

That was painless.

Or they'll be sent home.

You know when something just doesn't go to plan..

[sighs]

Welcome to "All That Glitters."

[instrumental music]

Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter is home

to more jewelry businesses than anywhere else in Europe.

So it seemed impolite for our "All That Glitters" workshop

to be anywhere else.

[indistinct chatter]

(Hugo) 'Feels weird that there's very less people.'

- 'First time I noticed it.' - Yeah.

The first challenge is all about designing

and making a piece of jewelry

people would queue around the block for.

It's the bestseller.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) Good morning, jewelers.

With only six of you remaining, things are about to get

bigger and bolder.

'Today, for the bestseller challenge'

there's no more gold, no more silver.

It's all about alternative materials.

That is, wood, glass, cat-hair, my early stand-up.

Any alternative materials that you wanna use.

Today we would like you to make a cocktail ring.

My kind of ring. Shaun, Solange, let's talk about it.

Your cocktail ring must be made using material

not traditionally used in jewelry-making.

However, base metals such as brass and copper can be used.

Your ring must be a size M

and I will be measuring them all very carefully.

A cocktail ring is designed and worn to attract attention.

So make yours contemporary, oversized and eye-catching.

You have four hours to create your cocktail ring

and your four hours starts now.

[instrumental music]

Okay.

Oh, I was gonna start my timer

and actually use it this week.

(Dan) I'm feeling a little bit apprehensive

working with new material, but I'm also really excited.

This is just a really nice challenge to sort of move away

from what I'm used to, and just have a bit of fun

and do something completely unusual.

(Hugo) Ah, it's definitely gonna be over the top, my cocktail ring.

But that's exactly what we want, want for this challenge

so, yeah, it's gonna be, uh, it's gonna be a very big piece.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) Our very own Solange is one of the UK's

leading cocktail ring designers.

Some of her extravagant pieces

retail for around 20,000 pounds!

So she is the perfect person to judge this challenge.

Solange, what is exactly a cocktail ring?

A cocktail ring is very attention-seeking.

It started in the '20s during the Prohibition Era.

It was all the rebellious girls, smoking, drinking.

'It's a way of drawing attention to yourself'

without having to say anything.

Oh, I like that. What are you looking for?

(Solange) 'This is a great challenge for the jewelers'

'because they can just really explore dimensions'

'materials, shapes'

and also, it puts everyone on a level pegging.

'So it's not about their skills as a jeweler.'

'This is pure idea.'

What we wanna see is them really expressing themselves

their creativity, just letting, letting themselves go.

[instrumental music]

And to help the jewelers fulfill that part of the brief

the workshop's been stocked

with a whole host

of new materials

including leather, paper, wood and glass.

(Tamara) The last time I worked with alternative materials

I enjoyed it because you're not constrained

by the value of the materials.

So you can go quite big and bold with your ideas.

(Katherine) For this challenge, the jewelers have been allowed

to bring in their own alternative materials.

And Tamara, from London, has managed to get her hands

on some very large nuts.

(Katherine) 'What is the name of this nut?'

It's a tagua nut from South America.

And it's often called vegetable ivory.

Because when you carve into it, it's like a creamy white color

the same as any animal ivory.

Indigenous tribes from South America

have been carving palm tree tagua nuts

into intricate jewelry for centuries.

But after failing to complete her previous bestsellers

Tamara will be keeping her design simpler.

She's engraving her ring with fine line details.

Finish it off with a red seed from the sandalwood tree.

It's ten years ago I found them on a beach.

I've just kept them 'cause I just think they're beautiful.

So I'm gonna put one of those on the top like a jewel.

And so everything that you're making is edible.

(Tamara) Natural. I'm not quite sure if you can eat them.

In an apocalyptic scenario, you could melt

this cocktail ring down into a stew.

Yeah.

While most of the jewelers have chosen

hard-wearing alternative materials..

Wibbly wobbly knife.

...some have made a less obvious choice.

I've used paper because I wanted to think out of the box

and just be a bit inventive, and also it's something

that people would sort of think and go

"Oh, no, that's never gonna work."

And I kinda wanna show them that it could.

(Katherine) Nicola's previous

architectural designs

have won praise from the judges.

So she's staying true to her style

and using her paper to create angular ornaments

that will be sewn into a ring made from ebony.

But Nicola is no stranger to making jewelry

from alternative materials.

What's this ring?

This is definitely an alternative material.

- This is breast milk. - What?

[laughs]

Let me see. How is this breast milk?

So it's gray 'cause it's had a pigment in it.

So you start with the liquid milk

and you heat it with a compound and it becomes a paste.

And I grind it down a-and then set in resin.

Do people know about this, Nicola?

It's, it's a niche market

but there is definitely a market for it.

Oh, this is so much fun because you are going to be

in the "Daily Mail."

I know! People are gonna like, "Crazy."

I think it's crazy, Nicola, that some people are grossed out

by breast milk, but they're happy to drink from a cow

'they've never met.'

- Amen! - Goodbye, Nicola!

See ya.

[chuckles]

(Dan) Cocktail rings are bold statement piece.

So this is gonna cover a large proportion

of the hand, if not the finger.

(Katherine) Dan earned "Jeweler Of The Week" in round one

and since then has consistently impressed the judges

with the quality of his finished pieces.

But he is yet to demonstrate his own unique style.

In terms of materials, a little bit frightening for me.

I've only ever worked in silver and gold

and platinum and stuff like that.

Taking center stage in Dan's cocktail ring

will be a large orchid flower.

And he's attempting to make it

almost entirely from leather.

Is there another dimension? It's just leather.

- That's it. Leather-- - Just leather.

- Leather with a bit of brass. - Okay.

So the whole ring is pretty much leather?

- Yeah. - Um..

Good.

(Solange) 'Do you feel you're expressing yourself?'

- Um, I think so. I think so. - Yeah?

Yeah, I've been thinking about that loads, and I think

I'm overthinking it. So we got black and whites.

(Dan) 'And then I'm gonna put just a thin coat of yellow paint'

'just on the edge of each flower'

'so it's got sort of poisonous look.'

Mm. Okay. That's the beauty of cocktail rings.

'Well, it just can be anything.'

And it's the space for you to express yourself

and be as nuts as you want to be.

(Dan) I'm not gonna change anything based on that

brief conversation, but, uh..

Yeah, I hope they like it.

I like it. That's all that matters today.

[laughs] Well, it isn't, but..

I want something contemporary, simplistic in its form

but still bold, so I've-I've gone

for a sort of a-a mix of materials.

(Katherine) After failing to meet the brief in the last bestseller

jewelry repairer Lee hopes to hit the mark

with his copper cocktail ring.

He's also using a white putty called epoxy resin

to set a piece of multicolored glass before it dries hard.

(Katherine) May I touch this? May I hold it?

I-I was so drawn to this when I saw it.

It's such an honor to be able to work with this stuff.

I just find myself smiling every time I work with it.

Yeah, you put in any texture or any coloring or..

This week I'm gonna stay away from texture.

(Lee) 'When this epoxy resin goes off, it's like porcelain.'

It's beautiful, so I'm thinkin' that will stand out

the bright white against the copper.

- How long does it take to dry? - Four hours.

- Okay. Right. - To go rock hard, so they say.

Hopefully, it will be a fun ring, a talking point.

[instrumental music]

We're a grain of hardwood. Ha-ha..

(Katherine) The technical name for the band that goes around the finger

is the shank.

Okay, I'm happy with that.

The judges want the cocktail ring shanks at a UK size M

requiring a very precise internal diameter

of 16.7 millimeters.

So there's no margin for error.

(Tamara) I'm using a 15-millimeter drill bit

so I'm drilling a little bit too small

then I can file up to exactly the size I need.

(Sonny) You can't redo it if the size is wrong.

So you've really got to take it step by step.

Wish me luck, Sonny.

(Sonny) 'Good luck, Lee.'

[music continues]

[whirring]

Done.

Oh, that is so cool.

[Tamara chuckles]

[whirring]

We have a big hole.

[laughs] Job done.

(Sonny) The inspiration for my design is the classic signet ring.

But to match the brief, I'm making it from wood.

(Katherine) Self-taught jeweler Sonny has had a mixed response

from the judges for his raw, contemporary designs.

He's creating his ring from walnut

and inlaying it with highly-polished copper

with a skull engraving.

(Shaun) 'So, Sonny, you said you're making a signet ring.'

How are you gonna make that into a cocktail ring?

So, traditionally, signet rings are very simple

quite, sort of understated.

I think the difference with this is gonna be the sheer size

'and also the different engraving as well.'

'So just taking a contemporary approach'

'to a very traditional piece.'

(Shaun) 'What does a cocktail ring mean to you?'

Large, over-the-top statement and fun.

I'm gonna start telling people "I got a cocktail butt."

A "cocktail butt.."

[laughing]

[whirring]

[indistinct chatter]

(Katherine) A cocktail ring should be big and bold

and needs an eye-catching centerpiece to grab attention.

Um, I'm just folding now really carefully.

This is gonna be my biggest gem.

And once I've got that done, I'll be, um, happy, yeah.

So my cocktail ring is all designed around the sea.

So it's gonna look as if it was just rolled up from the ocean.

(Katherine) Having been named the "Jeweler Of The Week"

in the last round, goldsmith Hugo is looking

to build on his success and impress the judges once again.

Today he is setting an ornate seashell

on top of a highly-textured brass shank.

(Hugo) So I'm gonna sort of incorporate metal into those shells.

I'm pretty much using it as if I would any other stone.

- More or less, that's it. - 'Oh, that's very cool.'

I think I would feel like a mermaid queen

wearing that. Where did you get it?

I actually got this from my sister.

- Does she sells seashells? - No, she doesn't.

- She doesn't-- - She collects, not sells.

She collects, but not sells seashells.

- Got by the seashore. Yeah. - Yeah?

[both chuckling]

[whirring]

(Katherine) Having been quiet as a mouse while cutting his glass

Lee now has to carefully and precisely set it

within the resin.

Oh, man.

Come on. Yeah. Oh, come on!

This is the crucial bit for me.

Epoxy resin in and this is what holds it all together.

So I just gotta get it in the right place.

[exhales sharply] I know I've got an hour before it goes rock-solid.

So I hope it sets quickly enough for me to file it

before we finish, so I need to relax, let it set.

Right, matron.

(Katherine) 'One hour left!'

'You have an hour remaining.'

Copy that, copy that.

So far we're on plan.

But you gotta stay on your toes.

Um, it's going okay.

There's, like, glue marks and things I wish weren't there

but you've got to do what you can in the time that you've got.

I'm a little bit ahead of time which makes me feel like

I've definitely done something wrong.

[laughs] Hopefully a bit of my design style coming through.

But then, because I've not worked with leather before

it's really difficult to, to stay true to a style.

I'm sure one will do that and one will come through.

Um, hopefully, soon.

(Katherine) As well as making a big statement

cocktail rings should also have more refined details.

It's going well, I think I've got time

to do a tiny bit of engraving just on the top.

So, yes, it's all going to plan.

[laughs]

(Lee) I've got the epoxy resin.

It looks hard, sounds hard.

But I've gotta file it, and it's still

a little bit tacky, a little bit soft.

(Sonny) So I'm making what's called granulation.

I've snipped off equal amounts of copper wire.

I then melt each individual one into a little tiny ball.

So the copper detailing is gonna go around the band

along the underside and also in the shoulders as well.

It's definitely not deliberate to leave it to the last minute

'cause I hate it just as much as everyone else.

- It's very stressful.. - 'Twenty minutes, jewelers!'

That's 20 minutes remaining, please.

So now I've got to get my, uh, rear in gear.

(Katherine) '...minutes!'

[panting]

So I'm just polishing my ring shank

and I'm just getting ready to stitch my gem stones

into the shank, I'm a little bit tight for time

but I'm not, I've been tighter, so..

[dramatic music]

(Lee) 'Time is running out now.'

The epoxy resin just isn't set in.

I'm not gonna get it finished-finished

so I've just got to tidy it up as best as I can.

It's a relatively simple build, hopefully, it won't be seen

as too, as too simple.

I'm-I'm hoping it's just gonna be really striking

when you look at it, you'll see, you'll-you'll be slightly wowed.

What do you still need to do? Just glue--

I'm just sticking my nut.

My seed and my nut.

[chuckles]

Getting my gem on to the band

is proving harder than I had anticipated.

It's not really working.

(Katherine) 'Three minutes, jewelers. Rings on the plinth.'

Lee, even if it isn't fully hard.

'Tamara, your nut and seed.'

On the plinth, please. Thank you.

It'll be on there, it'll be on there.

(Sonny) 'Pretty close to the initial vision I had.'

For a first attempt, pretty pleased.

(Dan) Yes, that'll do.

It's certainly very bold.

I'm actually pleased, I think.

(Lee) Another half an hour, and it might have been a viable thing

but here you go, it happens.

(Katherine) 'Seven, six, five..'

You know when something just doesn't go to plan.

(Katherine) '...three, two, one!'

Thank you. This has been the bestseller challenge.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) After four hours of carving, engraving and sewing

all six jewelers have finished their bestseller challenge.

But whose big and bold cocktail ring

will grab the right kind of attention?

And will their rings fit

a UK standard M-sized finger?

Unfortunately, though, Shaun's under the weather.

So under doctor's orders, he has to save his critique

and pearls of wisdom for the next challenge.

For now, the jewelers face the judgment of Solange

with a little help from yours truly.

First to face critique, it's Hugo.

(Solange) So this is a beautiful shank.

It feels like you've created a setting for it

that totally harmonizes with the shape of the ring.

Let's see if it is a middle M.

Mm. I think it's sitting there.

(Solange) I think it's a bit top-heavy, but it definitely stands proud.

- Pfft.. - 'This is great work, Hugo.'

'I feel like you could get celebrity endorsement.'

'Can you imagine Lady Gaga at a cocktail party'

wearing this with a live slug inside?

Oh, my God.

(Katherine) Next up is Nicola with her paper gemstone cocktail ring.

(Solange) 'Well, it's certainly oversized.'

It may have gone a little step too far

on the size front here.

- Shall we try it on the stick? - Yes.

- 'A little bit tight.' - Not-not quite.

(Solange) Not quite. And it is too big to work as a cocktail ring.

I'm not sure I could call this a bestseller, really.

(Katherine) Next it's Dan with his poisonous leather orchid.

(Solange) I really like the way you've worked the leather

as if it was a metal, actually.

And the way the shank is a-also leather is great.

Mm, you know, sometimes it's nice to have an embellishment

on your hand that's really soft.

- 'Yeah.' - You know? I will measure it.

Twist it a little bit.

- I think you can stop at the M. - Yeah.

(Solange) I don't think it's very original.

Okay.

Just think it's not that modern.

And it's more of a hair ornament.

(Katherine) Now it's Lee's turn

with his colored glass set in epoxy resin.

(Solange) 'Very peacock, isn't it, it's got that'

'lovely iridescence, yeah.'

(Katherine) 'Shall we try?'

- Heh-heh. - Thank you.

(Solange) 'Oh, it looks pretty central, doesn't it?'

Just a bit big, but the epoxy resin

it looks a little bit unfinished.

(Lee) It is, yeah.

Just think it's the, it's the white.

- Looks a bit dull. - 'Yeah, it would have been--'

(Solange) It's not, it's not matte and it's not polished well.

It didn't quite go off in time.

(Katherine) Tamara's carved tagua nut and sandalwood seed is next.

(Solange) Well, I really love it. It's so modern.

'And it's really sculptural. The engraving is very subtle.'

'And that beautiful deep rich red is fantastic.'

I think it's pretty comfortable.

You've smoothed it in very nicely.

(Solange) Looks pretty central, think it's an M.

(Katherine) Well done, Tamara. Do you know..

Who's gonna go absolutely wild

for this vegetable ivory?

Elephants.

'When they hear about this'

the weight off their shoulders, Tamara.

- They'll be like "Finally." - 'That's true.'

- Thank you. - 'Thanks.'

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) Last but not least, it's Sonny.

(Solange) 'I love the color combinations, the black and copper.'

It's definitely a good signet ring. Is it a cocktail ring?

I did think this one till it was finished.

- Shall we try it on the stick? - Yes.

(Katherine) 'That's a completely center M.'

'This is a very cool ring, Sonny.'

And you know there are a lot of moody people now.

Even little pop stars, they used to be quite tripper, you know?

♪ Yeah-yeah-yeah-ya ♪♪

Not anymore. They're all very upset.

- It's trendy to be down. - Yeah.

- Thank you, Sonny. - Thanks, Sonny.

[instrumental music]

Well, I think you all deserve a cocktail or two after that.

Solange is gonna get in touch with Shaun

and examine your rings a little more closely

to see who rose to the occasion

and who fizzled out in the bestseller challenge.

'As you know, tomorrow some of your plinth lights will be on'

'and some will unfortunately be off.'

But that just means you have to push harder

in the bespoke challenge to make sure you're not the one

leaving the "All That Glitters" party.

Off you go, enjoy the cocktails, mocktails

whatever you're drinking.

(Katherine) Despite being under the weather

you just can't keep a good judge down.

So having seen images of all the cocktail rings

Shaun has dialed in to give Solange his opinion.

And they must now decide which jeweler excelled

and whose lights will remain on

but also whose lights will be switched off.

Tamara's was just perfect, I thought.

(Shaun on phone) 'Yeah, I agree. Great conceptual sculpture.'

'Looked really carved well. I like Hugo's.'

'It's a lovely contrast of different metals.'

(Solange) 'Very eye-catching, definitely.'

'Nicola, there were some lovely elements, but too many ideas'

'that she couldn't really cram in to, uh, the time.'

(Shaun on phone) 'It's a beautiful use of diverse materials'

'but here I think, composition and proportionally'

'she got it wrong.'

I think, actually, it-it did, from afar

it did look really cool.

Um, just not up close.

[laughs]

Dan's beautifully executed.

(Solange) 'But I just don't think it was very modern.'

(Shaun) 'It's not something that would wow me.'

Definitely feeling like the lights will be off tomorrow.

Saw some hard criticism from Solange today, um..

Yes, I'm a little bit worried, really gonna have to step it up.

(Shaun on phone) 'Sonny, he's always pushing'

'the boundaries with his materials.'

(Solange) 'He always does something interesting and unusual.'

But the problem is always in his execution.

'Lee's, the glass is really beautiful.'

'But the epoxy resin was a bit messy.'

(Shaun) 'That really, really did it for me. I don't think that

(Lee) I felt the judging today really rammed it.

I may have done enough to have my light on.

I just don't know.

[dramatic music]

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) With a new day, the jewelers will be tasked

with creating a very special piece of jewelry

from a brief given to them by their newest client.

This challenge is the bespoke.

[instrumental music]

- Hi, Amrou. - Hello.

Welcome to the "All That Glitters" workshop.

Oh, thank you.

Amrou wants to commission a personalized and vibrant piece

to wear on stage whilst performing

in their very first solo drag show.

(Katherine) 'Tell us about yourself.'

- Uh, my name is Amrou Al-Kadhi. - Mm-hmm.

Uh, I'm a British Iraqi.

And I was raised quite strictly Muslim

by very conservative parents.

And then, um, things kind of hit the fan

when I told them I wanted to marry

Macaulay Culkin in "Home Alone."

- You didn't. - I mean, come on.

Tell me about your drag persona, Glamrou.

(Amrou) 'So Glamrou says the things that, like'

I used to just never feel like I had the courage to say.

Well, Glamrou has a lot to say because I know

you'll be doing your first solo performance.

(Amrou) I'm really, really excited about this

'cause, I mean, I was part of the drag troop called Denim.

Whereas this time it's like..

- All you. - Yes.

What does Glamrou need for her first show?

- I mean, diamonds are good. - Yeah, diamonds are great.

But I'm really envisaging a nice, big bib necklace.

I want something that has, like

a Middle Eastern, like, flare to it, but it can be

a contemporary rendering of that, nothing dainty.

It needs to have its own gravitational field.

- You know what I'm saying? - For the cheap seats.

Yeah, exactly.

You wanna make an impact from far away?

- Especially for an entrance. - Well, break a leg.

Oh, thanks. Snap a lash, you say to--

- Snap a lash? - I find break a leg..

It's like I'm in heels, like, it's too close to home.

Like, I'm going to anyway. So snap a lash.

[snapping fingers]

(Katherine) But before the jewelers receive their bespoke brief

they're about to discover whose cocktail rings

failed to impress the judges.

(Katherine) 'Here we go again.'

If a jeweler produced

a quality piece

their plinth light

will remain on.

But if it's turned off, they'll need to raise their game

in the bespoke challenge, or they could be in danger

of leaving the workshop.

They've decided to switch off the plinth lights of Dan..

...Nicola

and Lee.

(Lee) Saw my light was off, um..

It, it was no surprise, really.

Didn't quite get it finished, and I'm with the feedback.

Yeah, I thought it might be.

I just got to really do the best I can today

and hope it's enough.

I was expecting it, so I think it's a fair judgment.

(Nicola) It was too oversized.

I'm gonna try to the best of my ability

that it doesn't happen again today.

(Dan) I was kind of expecting that to be off this morning.

My designs aren't necessarily the strongest

although my skill is good. It's just the design element.

But, um, y-you know, the chances of staying in now

it's, um, it is getting tougher. It is getting tougher.

Good morning, jewelers.

Nicola, Dan, Lee, I'm so sorry to see your lights are off.

'But there is more chance to impress'

'in today's bespoke challenge.'

Jewelers, your client today is Amrou

who is performing their debut solo drag show tomorrow

and needs a stunning bib necklace.

But only one of your pieces will be chosen

to take center stage with Glamrou.

A bib necklace is worn as a statement piece of jewelry

'covering a significant portion of the chest.'

This is your opportunity to embrace costume style jewelry

and be as creative as you like.

Not only should it be big and bold

it must be made of at least

two alternative materials.

(Katherine) 'You will have five full hours'

'to complete this bespoke challenge.'

And your time starts now.

Oh. Snap a lash.

[laughter]

(Shaun) Good luck.

[instrumental music]

(Lee) Never made a bib necklace before.

Um, it's-it's a bit wacky and wild and out there.

(Hugo) Can't say I have, uh, made anything

for a drag queen before.

But there's a first time for everything.

(Katherine) Amrou's given the jewelers a mood board to work from.

Full of inspiration from their life in the Middle East

along with photographs from previous drag shows.

(Dan) Never made a bib necklace, never made anything big.

Most of my work is always subtle

it's quite delicate, it's quite small.

This is out there for me, really out there.

Shaun, good to have you back.

We missed you very much yesterday.

A bib necklace, not just for fancy babies. What is it?

(Shaun) A bib necklace is a real statement piece.

- Mm. - It's got drama.

(Shaun) It's got character. It covers the chest.

The bib necks used to be much more celebrated

maybe at the opera or at balls.

Well, we need to have more balls.

We do.. Ha-ha-ha..

Glad you said that 'cause it was on the tip of my tongue.

What are you hoping to see in the challenge?

I'm really hoping they incorporate the client.

'I really want them to be clever and inventive'

'with the use of alternative materials.'

I want volume, I want character, I want embellishment.

It very much has the risk of coming home

looking like one of those pasta necklaces

your kids make in preschool.

- God, I remember those. - Yeah.

And they're like, "Will you wear it, mommy?

Are you proud of me?" And you're like..

I hope none of that goes on today.

[upbeat music]

(Katherine) The workshop has once again been filled

with an array of different alternative materials

including some more unusual items

like acrylic, feathers and even a pair of my old jeans

in homage to Glamrou's time in their drag troupe

called Denim.

(Dan) The client is after quite a bold piece.

So I want to sort of start with some brown

sort of feathery leaves, then it's gonna get

more and more colorful

to show that transition into becoming, um

who they really want to be.

(Katherine) After being criticized by Solange

for making his cocktail ring almost entirely from leather

this time Dan's bib necklace

will be made from leather.

But he is making the clasp from denim.

(Dan) Maybe I should have branched out

but it's, um, it's incredibly hard for somebody

who spent the last 25 years working in Selvata

all of a sudden think outside the box.

So, I, I have really struggled this way.

It's not my comfort zone.

[hammering]

I was trying to think outside the box

with the alternative materials.

And, uh..

kinda thought cable ties is different.

(Katherine) Nicola's cable ties will be linked together

to form a number of hanging chains

all connected to a large winged shoulder pad

made from vegan-friendly leather.

(Katherine) 'What's vegan leather made of?'

Well, actually, that is paper

imbued with, like, latexy stuff.

(Katherine) 'Interesting alternative material.'

- Yes, I thought it is. - Mm. Time is of the essence.

- It is. - And..

How do you manage your time today?

Well, the cable ties come together quite quickly.

(Shaun) 'Yeah, I'm seeing, they're being developed before our very--'

Before your eyes. So I'm really going at it all guns today.

[upbeat music]

(Tamara) I want to really let my hair down with this challenge

and make something that the client will look at

and think, "I must have it."

(Katherine) Following the success of her tagua-nut cocktail ring

in the bestseller, Tamara is once again using

a more exotic alternative material

to embellish her bib necklace.

I'm hoping to add

these really beautiful beetle wings.

These wings are a natural by-product

of ethically-farmed beetles in Asia

that are consumed as an everyday source of food.

This looks very exciting.

It's a gold-leather bib necklace

'inspired by Elizabeth Taylor'

'in the film "Cleopatra."'

- 'Very glamorous.' - 'Very glamorous.'

And I see you have some beetle wings.

- I do, yeah. - These are so beautiful.

I've used these in my work as well.

Yeah, I think they're such a beautiful by-product of nature

according to jewelries. It's so eye-catching!

That's from nature? I thought it was a fake nail.

(Tamara) 'Yes.'

[upbeat music]

[sawing]

The jewelers are allowed to use base metals

like copper and brass.

The rate that these sawblades are snapping

it's feeling like I'm an apprentice again.

But in addition, the judges want to see

the bib necklaces created from at least

two other alternative materials.

(Sonny) So my two alternative materials is copper and acrylic.

(Katherine) A part of the brief that Sonny seems to have missed.

(Sonny) I've basically a separate design

of some think which was kind of like an Egyptian god

or goddess or, uh, Pharaoh or something like that.

So my centerpiece of the actual, uh, bib necklace

is gonna be a shield sort of shape, made up of sheet copper.

I'm actually going to be riveting on, um

some opaque red acrylic, and that's gonna sort of mimic gems.

I'm gonna be adding chains to the pieces

so you've also got the sound of that as well

which is gonna be nice.

(Katherine) Lee is also using copper in his design

to form the main collar to his bib.

(Lee) All-all the wires I've got today

are-are waste pieces from an electrician.

So it's all his off-cuts, and it's just a lovely form.

So it's a-a nice bit of recycling.

(Katherine) But he's adding geometric shapes

made from a mix of Perspex and PVC foam

that'll hang underneath.

So how are you feeling? The light was off today.

Um, I expected it, to be honest.

The-the resin I used didn't go off in time. It was a gamble.

I know, I was hoping to see that

really high-polished porcelain finish.

'But do you know what was lovely?'

To see your stain-glassed ring

and then today we'll see all these different color charts.

'That seems to be an identity I'm seeing with you.'

- 'Which is great to see.' - 'Thank you.'

(Lee) 'I feel I've grown whilst doing this.'

As a designer, as a maker, it's spurred me on to better things.

- Good. Well, we're seeing it. - Drag queens are makers.

You know, they have to fashion all their own outfits

and then change the shape of their bodies

and, like, tuck things and make things smaller

or make bums bigger and do jewelry.

- And do hair.. - Innovative.

Yes, and this is very innovative and I cannot wait to see it.

Well, it's certainly different.

[laughs]

[upbeat music]

(Nicola) It's exciting. You can be so creative with this challenge.

I'm not just shoving stuff together

no matter what it may look like.

(Hugo) I think, uh, Amrou's story is great.

You know, it's all about getting out of a bad situation

into one where you feel more comfortable

more free to express themselves

which is basically what jewelry is all about.

(Katherine) The circular and triangular shapes to Hugo's bib necklace

are inspired by Middle Eastern architecture.

But for a contemporary twist

he's adding denim and leather for color and comfort.

I think you'd make a beautiful drag queen.

Yeah, you have really nice bone structure.

- Really pretty brown eyes. - You know..

I'm gonna take that one. I'll take that one.

Every time I see a beautiful boy

I don't wanna date him anymore, I just wanna drag him up.

- ...in lipstick. - I just wanna drag him up.

Yay!

[upbeat music]

Time is tickin'.

My chain is coming together.

I decided to get on with that

rather than doing the wings, actually.

So I'm being pragmatic with my time.

Solange, we're halfway. So who could be in trouble?

Sonny. I don't know how many alternative materials he's used.

I-I can't see more than one.

'Copper and brass are fine to use'

'but we're also looking for two alternative materials.'

Can Nicola bring it back? Can she be "Jeweler Of The Week?"

(Solange) 'She has great ideas, but I think'

'the materials have to be attractive'

'even though they're not precious.'

Is it arts and crafts?

It could be a little bit crafty.

Again, she's trying to fit too much.

But anything can change. We'll see. See what happens.

[mumbles]

So I had basically realized that

copper isn't an alternative material. It's a base metal.

Silly me.

I need a third material. Well, I don't know what I'm gonna use.

That's what happens if you don't read the brief properly.

So I'm gonna be adding feathers.

It's gonna be tight, but I'll just about have time.

And you don't want it to look panicked.

You want it to look like that's

that's how you intended it to be.

(Hugo) 'So right now I'm just basically'

just trying to chore it all out.

My main concern is this piece over here

which is like the top neck brace.

But once I have that done, all I need to do

'is to start getting my alternative materials'

sort of add it to it and then I can sort of start

um, sort of building, building everything up.

[hammering]

(Katherine) As the jewelers finish making the main sections

of their bib necklaces, they need to decide

how to join all their different elements together.

This process is called whacking.

I'm just punching out some little figure of eights

and then they're gonna just thread together

to create the chains for the whole chain.

Well, that should be linked up from leather.

It's a bit of a, it's a funny one this week

alternative materials, it's not my strong suit.

No one's used to working with these materials

that's what makes them alternative.

Imagine how a drag queen feels

working with foam breasts and a fake ass, you know?

Yup. I guess so.

Just try and relate to you, Dan.

- Alright, I'll see you soon. - See you soon. Thank you.

[upbeat music]

(Tamara) One, two, three, four, five.

I'm just about to drill a hole in the beetle wing

and it's really thin, so I don't know

whether it's gonna snap or split.

Let's see what happens.

[drilling]

[blows]

That was painless.

[Tamara laughs]

It worked.

(Sonny) This is the chain.

So I'm at the stage of the piece now

where I'm starting to solder it together.

I'm basically making all the components first

and then start to piece it all together.

But it's, um, it's taking shape.

One hour, jewelers! This is your one hour call!

[upbeat music]

♪ One hour ♪♪

Not panicking yet, but I can feel the pressure build. Yeah.

What's he doing?

(Hugo) Yeah, it's gonna be tough getting it

all together in time.

It's-it's tight. The time is tight.

(Katherine) A well-constructed necklace might please the judges

but Glamrou was also looking

for Middle Eastern vibrancy and grandeur.

So the jewelers need to think carefully

about their use of color.

(Lee) Orange is the color for flamboyance.

And what better color is there for Amrou?

(Dan) So I've got all sorts of quite, sort of vibrant, vibrant

I'm not too sure which ones I'm gonna use.

I'm not the best at color theories.

So I hope I don't make a complete painting

of putting the wrong colors next to each other.

So this is the small acrylic disc

and that's gonna essentially try and replicate a gem stone.

(Katherine) To add a touch of glamor to his bib necklace

Hugo's using a very delicate process called planishing.

I'm gonna be using this round part of the-the hammer

to give a sort of, like, hammered effect on the metal.

[hammering]

[sighs]

[exhaling sharply]

[hammering]

Silversmiths are probably shaking their heads right now.

Aren't they? Yeah.

[hammering]

Uh, I am a little bit worried, I'm not gonna lie, a little bit

but it should be okay.

Just, just.

[drilling]

(Sonny) So far so good. I'm enjoying it.

As long as you do each stage correct

it should piece together.

I like that you've put sweets on the necklace.

Yeah, it's, um, a break from the heavy metal.

(Katherine) 'Do you want me to teach you how to death drop?'

'I'm sorry, I've been googling drag terms.'

'So death drop is something drag queens do'

when they fall on the ground. Like..

You might end a set, do a little spin

and then you'll be like, "Oh, my gosh"

and death drop to the ground!

There's no chance I'm doing a death drop.

- 'Try it! Try it--' - I will 100% split my jeans.

You are not as metal as I thought.

- I'm not. Sorry. - See ya.

Too much sass going on today, I can't handle it.

[laughs]

[upbeat music]

I've got loads to do! Ah!

Um..

(Nicola) I kind of feel at this moment in time

like, I'm in control.

I don't want to get complacent and lose, lose timing.

(Lee) Okay, so I'm just starting to piece it all together

the first row, so we've got the plastics, the foams

the little copper beads and the copper droppers.

I do think it meets the brief and I do think it's ambitious.

I'm pleased with the piece.

I just hope the judges will be as well

and also the client.

That's the most important thing, right?

So I need to get everything polished first.

(Katherine) The electrical polishing motor

spins circular wheels of cotton called mops

at several thousand revolutions per minute.

With a small amount of polish applied

it allows the jewelers to quickly add

high shine to their metal.

But it must be used with care.

[intense music]

Ah! Wrong bit.

Quiet. I need to concentrate.

[music continues]

(Sonny) '[bleep].'

Ah! You [bleep] [bleep].

[music continues]

Machines need more chain, isn't it?

- No! - Yeah!

(Dan) 'Oh, the old snatchy, snatchy motor.'

So my chain got snagged by the polishing motor

and it's basically snapped the chain.

So I've lost half my chain.

You basically have to just remake it.

Obviously, you don't have time to do that

which means I can't leave my chain hanging

from the main piece, so the feathers are no more.

Fifteen minutes, jewelers! You have fifteen minutes.

[upbeat music]

It's gonna be tough getting it all together.

But time is gonna be very, very tight. Very tight indeed.

So add a blue or two.

Alright, that can just dry

so now I need to glue these together.

The chain's gonna be way too short.

And not soldered, so not very strong either.

I know you are busy jeweling the house down

but you have two minutes to let them have it.

Drag terms.

[hammering]

That was close.

Hugo, you're making me very nervous.

- You got me shaking, you know? - I'm sorry.

[Hugo laughs]

[upbeat music]

[sighs]

No repair now..

(Katherine) 'Five..'

'...four..'

...three, two..

...one!

'Congratulations on another challenge!'

[applause]

[chuckles] Well done. The judges are going to take a look.

Con-dragulations!

(Hugo) That was the most intense thing I've ever done, I swear.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) After five hours, the jewelers have all presented

their own interpretation of a statement bib necklace.

But who's created a high quality piece

that covers the chest

using two or more alternative materials

and skillfully incorporated Amrou's bespoke brief

of the Middle East, plus their flamboyant alter-ego

into their design?

[music continues]

First up for critique it's Hugo's copper, leather

and denim bib necklace.

(Shaun) One thing I do like is he's really

listened to the brief because he picked up on the shapes

and the architecture of the Middle East.

'I love the contrast between the denim and copper.'

A little bit rough in some edges.

Overall, I'm really happy to see Hugo

pushing his design.

And it's a bib necklace.

(Solange) Yeah, he's definitely hit the brief.

It looks like a warrior princess's necklace.

- Try it on you. - Well, then I must try it on.

It's gonna go with your outfit, actually.

Mm-hmm.

That's quite Glamrou, I think.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) Dan is next with his leather-leaf bib necklace.

As usual, Dan has executed this really, really beautifully.

He's definitely made a bib

and he's added this gold brass leaf.

Would have been nice to see a few more.

(Shaun) 'That shape, definitely a Middle Eastern inspiration.'

I'm beginning to see his design identity.

It's his beautiful form of really organic lines

'this excellent craftsmanship.'

'I think the piece is very considered.'

(Solange) 'Hm.'

(Katherine) Next up it's Tamara.

(Solange) 'Tamara is definitely channeling Elizabeth Taylor'

'in her "Cleopatra" era.'

And it's definitely eye-catching from a distance.

It's just layer upon layer of glitz and glam, isn't it?

(Shaun) 'It's a glamorous, attention-seeking bib necklace.'

I would have liked to see a little bit more

of the metal incorporation

'but I love the fact she's added that vibrance'

with the beetle wings, that iridescence is beautiful.

It is definitely gonna be seen from the cheap seats.

That's what Glamrou is looking for.

Thank you.

(Katherine) Next it's Sonny.

(Solange) 'I don't think Sonny's made a bib.'

The mistake he made was making his chain by hand

when he should have been working on the-the bib.

I'm not sure where the feathers were meant to be.

That's a shame that he didn't have time to attach those.

This is just not gonna work in a drag show.

(Katherine) 'You death drop and people think'

a fox has gotten into the chicken coop.

[laughing]

I like the idea of he used red Perspex

'to be like carnelian stones'

but I just feel, sadly, he's not executed it

'and it's run out of time.'

[sighs]

(Katherine) Can Nicola redeem herself after going a bit too big

with her design in the bestseller?

Well, I don't think it's a bib necklace.

(Solange) Nicola, as usual, always has a profusion of ideas.

It's always a question of time with Nicola and execution.

- 'Nicola has great concept.' - Mm.

(Shaun) 'Even though a bib necklace is meant to be glamorous and drama'

'it's gotta be a piece of jewelry at the end of the day.'

And I don't think we've achieved that with this piece.

- 'Alright.' - 'Okay, let's move on.'

(Katherine) Lee received harsh critique

for his cocktail ring in the bestseller.

Will his bib necklace fare any better?

(Shaun) 'It's good to see Lee pushing his design boundaries.'

'I think there's quite a lot going on.'

'A little bit too much going on.'

The aesthetics is a question of personal taste.

But, but it's certainly a bib necklace.

It's a little bit too long.

How does it look from a distance?

You can certainly see it from the cheap seats.

I think you can see it from space.

[laughing]

(Katherine) I think Glamrou's really gonna love that.

- It's up to Amrou, isn't it? - 'Yeah.'

Before the judges decide who'll be leaving

the "All That Glitters" workshop..

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) Glamrou!

...first, Glamrou must choose a bib necklace to wear on stage

at their first solo drag performance.

Are you excited to see the jewelry?

I'm so excited, I haven't

looked at them directly.

I don't wanna ruin the surprise.

Okay, well, follow me. Let's begin.

- 'We'll begin over here.' - 'Okay.'

(Amrou) 'It's like a drag queen version of a necklace.'

'And it also just has the kind of'

Middle Eastern sort of royalness.

(Lee) It's always about the client.

And for-for somebody to choose something

that you've made is-is very special.

You can't ask for higher praise.

- And these are-- - Nails, aren't they?

- Beetle wings! - Beetle wings?

I thought they were nails!

(Tamara) Overall, I am quite pleased with what I have made

so I would really love to be picked.

I'll leave you alone with the necklaces

and you can decide in your own time.

Take a closer look, as long as you need

but I require a winner.

I can't have two? Have a menage?

You can have a runner-up, privately.

Okay.

[laughing]

I will repay you all for your hard work.

(Katherine) The jewelers have completed two tough

alternative material challenges.

But, unfortunately, it's the end of the road

for one jeweler in the "All That Glitters" workshop.

Well, you asked the jewelers to push themselves

and think outside the box with alternative materials.

Who should be worried?

Sonny. The bib necklace didn't really turn into a bib necklace.

- 'Mm.' - 'It wasn't completed.'

(Solange) 'Well, he certainly didn't have two alternative materials.'

(Sonny) I wouldn't have done anything differently, to be honest

apart from, maybe, polish it by hand.

[laughs]

For me, Nicola was too ambitious

'in the amount of ideas she tried to put'

'into her bib necklace'

'um, which ultimately'

'it looked a bit messy and very amateur.'

I have so many ideas, this is the thing.

Trying to hone down on one, that's really hard for me.

I can't wait to see who the client chooses.

I also can't wait to see who you pick

'for "Jeweler Of The Week."'

'But, unfortunately'

you also have to choose someone

to go home.

[dramatic music]

[indistinct chatter]

(Katherine) The judges will be taking the client's choice of bib necklace

into consideration before making their final decision

on the "Jeweler Of The Week" and the person going home.

Jewelers, congratulations on completing

two more exceptional challenges

but only one of you can join Glamrou on stage.

So, Glamrou, please tell us who you've chosen.

I chose the piece that I felt

encapsulated the joy and vibrancy of the Middle East

but which had a kind of contemporary twist.

I'm really, really in love with it

and I cannot wait to wear it tomorrow.

'So..'

[instrumental music]

[cheering]

[applause]

[indistinct chatter]

Aww, I'm gonna cry. I am.

- Thank you. - Thank you. I love it so much.

I'm just so excited.

- 'Congratulations, Lee.' - Thank you.

That's not all the good news, the judges have chosen

another "Jeweler Of The Week"

someone who listened to and executed the briefs

and made an exceptional cocktail ring in particular.

'And that jeweler is..'

...Tamara.

[applause]

[indistinct chatter]

(Nicola) Told you.

Thank you. Thank you.

[applause]

- Oh, I love the beetle wings. - Why didn't you pick it then?

[laughing]

- You should be at my drag show. - Yeah.

(Amrou) 'Yeah.'

This is the part that I hate.

The standard is now so high

I know that all of you are now so close

'but someone has to leave'

'the "All That Glitters" workshop.'

The jeweler leaving us today..

'...is Nicola.'

[gasps]

'I'm sorry, Nicola.'

'Congratulations on your time here.'

'You're so amazing.'

[applause]

Um, little mixed about going home.

I'm gonna miss everyone.

You got to get in the final.

[laughing]

Your love meant so much.

I'm actually really proud of myself.

I can't believe that I did this.

It's crazy! It's crazy. The whole process has been mad.

You've got so much wonderful things coming on..

(Shaun) I don't think this is the end of the road for Nicola.

Contextually, she's brilliant.

(Amrou) Really special, I mean, look

I've never seen anything like it.

(Lee) I thought I was on my way home this week, to be honest.

Emotions are running wild at the moment.

It's, it's-it's a big thing.

It really is. It means the world.

I've really got to make most of this now and move on.

I'm stuck with all you male people.

I actually feel really nervous

because I feel like

I'm reaching all these levels now

and I have to just go higher and higher

and so it's quite scary, actually. Yeah.

[upbeat music]

[theme music]