Original subtitles

(female narrator) "I have enough jewelry"

said no one ever.

But luckily up and down the land is an army of jewelers

putting in the hours to make us sparkle.

And we're on the hunt for the next big star

in the world of jewelry.

This week..

Here we go again.

...seven up and coming

jewelry designers were turned

to the workshop to face two challenges.

The best seller to create pieces everyone will want.

What would you be excited to see from the jewelers?

Sexiness.

(female narrator) And the bespoke to design and make a one off

for someone special.

These people are talented.

(female narrator) All to try and impress two of the biggest names

in the industry.

Jeweler to the stars, Shaun Leane.

I was always told that a good jeweler is one

that get themselves out of a problem.

(female narrator) And renowned jewelry designer

Solange Azagury-Partridge.

(Solange) If they haven't followed our criteria

then they could be in trouble.

(female narrator) To win, they'll have to prove not only their

technical ability..

A rock and roll drama.

The spillage, it's always good to see.

(female narrator) ...but design prowess.

You ever thought of just buying jewelry?

[laughs ] Often.

(female narrator) Or they'll have to leave the workshop.

I've never enameled before, but how hard can it be.

(female narrator) So, who will shine bright like a diamond?

(Sonny) Ah, it looks a mess. How have I done that?

(female narrator) Or remain a diamond in the rough.

Bugger it!

[blowing raspberry]

Jewelry is so intense.

(female narrator) Welcome to "All That Glitters."

(female narrator) Birmingham is home to more canals than Venice.

And in the heart of it's jewelry quarter

the "All That Glitters" workshop.

- Happy to be back? - Ehh.

Little bit butterflies

little butterflies.

(female narrator) The first challenge the jewelers

face test their ability to design

and make a piece of jewelry

that's the next must have.

It's "The Bestseller."

(Katherine) Hello, jewelers and welcome back to the "All that Glitters"

workshop for some more tough challenges.

'This week, we'll be testing your abilities using'

the medium of wire and grain.

If anyone watching at home doesn't know what that is

just keep watching and the television narrative

will unfold.

'Using the silver wire in front of you'

the judges would like you to create a chain collar.

'Shaun, Solange, tell us more.'

(Shaun) 'A chain can often take'

a second billing to a main feature.

But we want it to be the star of the show.

Your chain collar must be 18 inches in length.

It should include at least three different sized links.

They can be any shape or size.

(Solange) 'Your chain collar, it needs to sit'

comfortably on the collar bone.

'And as it's drawing attention to that part of the neck'

make sure it's decorative and make it beautiful.

(Katherine) 'And remember, the bestseller should be jewelry '

that everyone wants in their collection.

Totally trending hashtag chains. What is that?

You have four hours and your time starts now.

- 'Good luck.' - 'Good luck.'

[instrumental music]

(female narrator) This week the jewelers are using silver wire and grain

which requires new levels of skill

and will build on the techniques used

in the first set of challenges.

(Sonny) I'm excited by the challenge

because there's few things

you should have in your collection.

A favorite ring, a favorite bracelet

and a favorite chain.

And I think this is the piece

which you gladly wear everyday.

(female narrator) For their day jobs, many of the jewelers work

to other jeweler's designs.

So, this is an opportunity to create something

that showcases their own unique style.

(Lee) The design today is-is quite simple.

It's clean lines, uh, contemporary

and that hopefully will catch the judge's eye

and get a brownie point or two.

What would you do if you were given this task?

Going on again.

[laughing]

Shaun, what exactly is a chain collar?

A collar is a series of decorative links

that all interlock together to create a chain.

'Most chains are made by machine nowadays.'

So, to hammock a chain takes a lot of skill and dexterity.

What would you be excited to see from the jewelers?

Sexiness.

- That's you and me both. - Mmm.

It should compliment a neck. Not dominate it.

(Katherine) 'What could go wrong today with this challenge?'

(Shaun) 'When forming and shaping the links, the metal could split.'

And when soldering, if they overheat the link

they're working on, the chain could fall apart.

'I'll be looking for clean solder joints'

'even polished and fluidity in the links.'

Well, let's hope they can deliver.

They're getting in the zone.

(female narrator) To create their chain, the jewelers have been given

50 cm of 3 mm sterling silver wire

that contains a small amount of copper

to make it more durable. Vital.

Because to make links in various shapes and sizes

they'll need to lengthen it

a lot.

I'm going to make this

around six meters long.

(female narrator) And to do that, they have to start

with a process called annealing.

(Nicola) Basically, the molecules of metal as you work

with them get really rigid and tight like this.

And if you anneal them and get them hot to a cherry red color

they all relax and it means you can bend it more easily.

(female narrator) As well as working as a special need's teaching assistant

Nicola from Hereford has started her own business

making jewelry from home.

(Nicola) My jewelry uses geometrical shapes and connections

that might be found and drawn from architecture.

I am quite new to this and I could easily feel overwhelmed

that I'm gonna take each week as it comes

and if I get to the final, I'll just be very shocked

and pleased.

(female narrator) Staying true to her signature style

Nicola's chain collar design is inspired

by Japanese rain chains

which work like down pipes

off the corners of traditional buildings.

So, there's three different size links, uh, within my chain

that build up a pattern, a repeated pattern.

So, in order to reach the 18 inches of length

I'm gonna use the draw horse

and I'm gonna draw the wire around

to a finer stock of wire.

[instrumental music]

Uhh..

(female narrator) The draw horse allows the jewelers to accurately

and quickly work their annealed silver wire

to the required length and width.

(Tamara) This process is called drawing down wire.

Basically like it's extruding the wire

through holes in a piece of steel

So, as the silver goes through the drawplate

it makes it thinner.

You can feel, like, the tension in the silver

because it's getting squashed.

Well, that's like, a lot of work.

Uh, you know what, you guys

you ever thought of just buying jewelry?

[laughs ] Often.

That's a lot easier.

- Can I pull it? - Yeah. Why not?

- 'It's just that easy.' - 'It's just that easy?'

Because it's good, it means you, uh

don't have to put as much energy into it.

You know, you can sell this

to like middle-class mums

as a workout because you're squatting

and then you're making your own jewelry.

So, if your ex-husband made off with all the stuff

you already had you can have more.

'Good luck with your squishing and pulling.'

- Kim, how's it going? - Well, alright, yeah.

Drawing down my wire.

Do you want me to spin the thing for you?

- No, no. I'm good. - Oh, alright.

That's what I noticed when you came

last week and I really liked it

is that you enjoy every moment on the bench.

Oh, absolutely nothing. I love working with the metal.

That's my thing. It's actually handling it and making it.

(female narrator) Kim is a real nature lover

and makes jewelry from her small studio

in Portsmouth.

She's keen to test and develop her technical skills.

(Kim) Natural forms, I think I would say inspire my work.

The things I see around me, a plant growing over a fence

or even a little weed coming out through the pavement.

My style of work is very free. It's very organic.

I almost think of myself as a painter

with my torch when I work.

It's.. It just flows really.

(female narrator) Kim is once again embracing

floral design in this challenge

with her daisy chain collar.

I'm bending a loop round on the end of each link

and-and then I'm going to poke the stem up

through the loop like this

and then I'm going to melt the end of the stem.

So, I'm going to get a bore on the end.

And that's how I'm going to form the working of the chain.

(female narrator) Whilst many of the jewelers have used the draw horse

to lengthen their wire

self-taught jeweler, Sonny

is taking matters into his own hands.

So, what I'm now is I'm forging the wire around.

The forging is going to give it a nice texture and shimmer.

(female narrator) Sonny's 18 inch chain collar has a series of inter-linked

silver rings soldered together with gold.

He's hoping the hand-finished

shows the judges his signature style.

(Sonny) The hammer is an extension of your own.

It's kind of like a fingerprint on the wire.

And I think, jewelry nowadays loses that.

And I think to have that to have that organic

human touch is big difference.

(female narrator) The next step for our jewelers is forming the three

sized links, which will form the main detail of their chain.

(Tamara) I'm going to make a loop-in-loop chain.

It's very ancient chain making technique

dates back to the Roman and Greek times.

I'm going to make lots of U shaped links.

Once they were linked together

it's this amazing feat of engineering

and suddenly makes this beautiful chain.

(female narrator) Tamara is originally from Essex

but makes her jewelry from a shared art-space

in Central London.

I make jewelry not because it's jewelry

it's more about the act of being creative.

Creativity to me is therapy.

It is the reason why I get up every morning..

I'm worried about being too ambitious with what I want

to do in a challenge and then realizing

that it's not going to work.

But I just want to enjoy it.

Hopefully, all will come together.

Time will tell.

(female narrator) The jewelers have been asked that their chain collar

is made with inter-locking links.

But some are using jump rings

which are additional joining hoops

soldered onto their design.

(Lee) I'm going for a, more of a bow link

than a traditional sort of circular link.

I've got these little jump rings to join it all together.

Just a little bit different.

So, hopefully that'll do the job and hopefully

it's within the remix, so..

- Hugo. - Hello.

Hey, you feeling strong this week?

I'm feeling strong. I'm feeling strong. I'm feeling good.

- Can we see your drawing? - Yeah, yeah, yeah.

- Of course. - 'Ooh..'

(Hugo) 'I've decided to make a chain based of, uh'

'Russian wedding bands.'

'So, I'm gonna interlock three different rings..'

(Solange) 'And, um, how are you planning on linking them together?'

So, I'm gonna have tiny little jump rings

which I'm gonna be placing either side

of each sort of corner.

So, do the jump rings constitute parts of the chain link?

Um, the way I'm gonna sort of bring it together

it's gonna sort of flow as if it's part of the chain, so..

(Katherine) 'Why do you ask? Are jump rings not allowed?'

It's a chain link collar.

So, every link needs to be inter-connected.

Inter-connected.

(female narrator) Hugo works for a jewelers in Haywards Heath in West Sussex.

He started as an apprentice when he was 15 years old.

I'd say, I'm the type of person that loves pressure.

While working, I sort of tend to get get sort of

tunnel vision and I'm kind of a person

who doesn't sort of stop until the job's done.

So much so I spend so much time on a piece

it just never sees the light of day

because I'm not happy with it.

Now, do you know what? Yeah.

Pretty sure I'm hanging, pretty sure I'm hanging that brief.

'But at the end of the day, it's up to what the judges think'

so, I'll leave that for them to decide whether

it is what they're looking for or not.

(Katherine) 'Wow, this looks very beautiful.'

Of course, winner of jeweler of the week, last week.

Ohh, you must be feeling wild today.

I certainly got felt very good last week.

But now it's just the pressure again this week.

Isn't it? Back to it.

I can see that you are positioning jump rings.

(Dan) 'Yeah, I'm doing a, quite an angular link.'

'But to keep it flat I'm gonna have a couple of jump rings'

'in between, just to it lays really flat to the body.'

I like crisp, sharp edges.

Um, so hopefully, they're gonna be crisp and sharp.

I think a chain is one of the hardest things

to design for a jeweler.

And you can't just link something with a piece of wire

or a little jump ring and say that's a chain.

That's not a chain. That's a necklace.

'If they haven't actually made a chain collar'

'and they've made a necklace'

and not followed our criteria

then they could be in trouble.

(Katherine) 'One hour left.'

You have an hour remaining.

A little bit panicked.

Um, got a fair amount still to do

but we'll see how it goes.

[instrumental music]

(Lee) It's a very important stage, need to get a triangle.

That's tringle is shaped as I can.

I don't really know whether I'm on target or not.

Just got to keep on, keep on going.

[instrumental music]

(female narrator) While most are using silver solder on their joints

so they can't be seen.

Sonny wants his to stand out.

(Sonny) What I'm doing is, I'm soldering every link

with 18 carat solder.

The issue that could happen here is you melt a link

which is a nightmare.

Because I not only you do..

You lose the link, you also lose length.

It's bit of school boy error there.

(Katherine) 'Do you think you're gonna make Shaun angry'

because he likes no soldering joints?

And you are highlighting these joints.

Its intentional. It's not through lack of technique.

That's what I say when I fall over.

(Tamara) I can only laugh this week, not cry.

I've been trying to make a loop in loop necklace.

And it's

really, really, really tricky.

- 'Hey, Tamara.' - Hi, Tamara.

Uh-oh! Rusting link face.

- What's wrong? - My loop in loops' not working.

- What does that mean? - How come?

Because I've been

just forming them and it's just taking so long.

(Katherine) 'This is lovely. So, this is what it's meant to do?'

Yeah, but it's.. I can't get 18 inches of that.

It's just not gonna happen.

Well, I was always told that a good jeweler

is one that gets themselves out of a problem.

(Tamara) What I'm going to do is make some of the necklace

just plain thin link.

As long as I've got a necklace with three different size links.

- So, I have to do that. So.. - 'I think that's a great idea.'

You can think your way out of this. I know you can.

I will do my best. Thank you.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) Jewelers, you have ten minutes remaining.

Ten!

Ten minutes.

(Hugo) In the next couple of minutes determines

on wherever much you're gonna hit that 18 inch.

It's starting to swell over, you know.

Jewelry is so intense.

I'm just polishing and I'm really hoping to make it.

Five minutes then I'll start polishing.

So, hope, I can get this bit done in five minutes.

(Lee) 'It's together.'

'Just gotta tidy it up and polish it.'

I'm not gonna get it

as finished as nicely as I want it.

I normally would weld all my jump ring shots.

(Sonny) I'm just a touch short, I'm just making

the smaller links oval.

They'll just give me an extra touch of length.

It's tight. It's very tight.

Yes, Tamara. Yes, Hugo. Yes, Dan. Yes, Kim.

'Four, three'

'two, one. That's time.'

Congratulations on another great challenge.

[whistling]

It's done. I'm gonna sit down now.

(female narrator) After just four hours

all the jewelers have finished

their bestseller challenge.

But who made an 18-inch chain collar

with three different sized interlocking links

and created a piece of jewelry with mass appeal

with their own personal style?

Well done, you've created a chain collar.

'And you've got your hammered linked'

'and you've got your slightly D shaped link'

and then you've got this really beautiful link round here.

(Solange) 'I love the way you've disguised the soldering'

with the gold and made it a design feature.

- It's really lovely. - Thank you.

Vey brave.

- 'Impressed.' - Thank you.

Shall we measure your 18 collar?

Please.

[indistinct chatter]

- Hmm. - There we go.

- Bang on 18 inches. - Happy days.

(Shaun) 'Happy days. Well done.'

(female narrator) Hugo is next with his Russian Bands.

- Hi, Hugo. - Hello. Hello.

Judges, what do you think?

I think, as always, some really interesting technique.

'I really like how you fused the gold'

'and the silver in the twisted wire'

'that's difficult thing to do.'

'But these are a little bit open for debate'

'whether it's a chain collar or a say necklace.'

(Katherine) Solange, this is where you come in.

I know you have strong feelings about--

I would personally call this a necklace.

It looks lovely and it's decorative.

But it's not a chain collar.

Basically, a chain is interlocking links.

(Katherine) 'Shall we measure it?'

(Hugo) Oh, God.

Eighteen...inches.

(female narrator) Next, it's Dan's Angular Chain Collar.

(Shaun) Um, Dan, you've got different size links.

It's nice to see the shapes coming from you.

'It's an identity beginning to build.'

One thing I do have to pick up on is you've not soldered

these joining jump rings.

No.

- 'Um.' - Just too squeezed for time.

On the subject of links, these are jump rings.

'So, Solange, where does this sit in your classic battle'

'between necklace and chain collar?'

Yeah, I mean, I would always like

to see the chain's interlocking.

'On many levels, it-it works'

'but I'm not sure it's a chain collar.'

But I think it sits very nicely.

And it's very well finished.

(female narrator) Will Kim impress with her

Daisy Chain Collar design?

It's very pretty.

I think there are some areas

that are little bit rough

um, in the craft.

'It is a chain collar because each piece is linked.'

(Solange) And it's very feminine.

Yes, just a little bit more cleaning up and then

and then you're there.

Just, that's a bit shy of 18 inches.

But sits beautifully.

(female narrator) Lee is next with his contemporary triangular design.

(Shaun) 'I think this piece borders'

'whether it's a chain collar or a necklace.'

(Solange) 'Yeah. I'm sorry.'

I would definitely say it is a necklace.

And as a necklace it's very attractive.

It's lovely to again to see your style.

It's your style coming through

'quite simple lines and the textures are even.'

And you make it, you know, you execute it well.

Thank you.

(female narrator) And now, Nicola's Rain Chain Collar.

- 'Hi, Nicola.' - Hey.

'We're very happy to see you finish'

'the chain collar.'

(Solange) 'Yeah, it's a chain'

'because it's, it's, uh, interlinked.

'And very original and very true to you.'

If no one told us who was making what

we could tell it would by you.

That means a lot. Thank you.

- Here we go. - 'Hmm.'

- 18 inches. - Great.

- Well done. - 'Well measured.'

(female narrator) Last up for judging is Tamara.

I know you ran into a few bumps along the way

but here is your finished product.

(Solange) 'Well, it's definitely a chain collar'

But you haven't done what you set out to do.

'Which is why perhaps the finish is not as great as it could be.'

It's a shame you didn't stick with the original design

because I was looking forward to seeing that.

- Me too. - 'But..'

(Shaun) 'You completed the chain collar'

and it fits the brief.

- 'So, well done.' - Thank you.

- Thank you. - 'Thank you'.

Right then, Shaun and Solange need to put their heads together

and decide which of you have the best chain reaction

and which were the weakest links.

'As you know, when you return tomorrow'

some of your plinth lights will still be on

and some of your lights unfortunately will be off.

Those of you whose lights are off, don't lose hope.

It just means you need to really step up to the mark

'in tomorrow's bespoke challenge if you want to remain here'

'in the "All That Glitters" workshop next week.'

Off you go. Get some rest. And I'll see you in the morning.

Well done today.

(female narrator) With the workshop to themselves

the judges now have to decide

which jewelers have impressed

and whose lights will remain on.

But they also need to agree

which lights will be switched off.

I was really relieved that the judges have recognized

that it was a risk to do a piece like that.

Today, it was a good springboard for the next challenge.

Sonny has done a lovely design.

'It's original and it's a chain collar.'

It's exactly what it's set out to be.

(Shaun) 'I think Hugo has put in technique'

before design.

And he's not embracing the brief as best as he could.

Dan

again finished beautifully.

(Solange) 'It's not a chain collar.'

'But it's graphic and it looks good.'

He's consistent in his execution.

Yeah. He is. He is.

- 'Tamara.' - 'Tamara.'

- She panicked. - She panicked.

(Solange) 'She knows it, but it's heart breaking.'

(Shaun) 'Yeah.'

I have to deal with it if the lights turned off tomorrow.

I have to just think about getting

the next challenge done.

I can't allow myself to dwell on it.

(Shaun) 'So Lee, it does look more like a necklace.'

'Uhm, it doesn't overwhelm me.'

- Yeah, I would worry about Lee. - Yeah.

Because he hasn't really hit the brief.

(Solange) 'With Kim, her style is always present.'

- 'It was a bit scruffy.' - 'Yeah.'

I'm a little bit nervous

that Kim is becoming very middle of the road.

'I wanna walk past Kim's piece and go "Wow!"'

- 'Haven't had that yet.' - 'Hmm..'

Do you think she's vulnerable?

- I'm 50-50. - 'Yeah.'

When I go in tomorrow, if my light's off

it's not gonna stop me at all.

I'm just gonna get over there

and I'm gonna do what I do.

One light unfortunately does go out tonight.

And there, there is a couple of others

that we need to think about.

Yeah.

(female narrator) A new day in the "All That Glitters" workshop

brings a brand new challenge.

"The Bespoke"

tests the jewelers ability to create

a personalized piece of jewelry

for a special client.

Hello.

Hi, Chris. Really nice to meet you.

Welcome to the "All That Glitters" workshop.

Thank you very much. Nice to be here.

(female narrator) Chris works in the Armed Forces as a radio DJ.

And he's here to commission a special piece of jewelry

for his military wife, Kelly

to take with her on her next tour of duty.

Do you feel that you've let your land down?

- Why? - Well, the monarchy needs you..

And all of a sudden you meet this American actress

and you go to Canada.

So, obviously you look like Prince Harry.

Tell me something else about yourself.

- How did you and Kelly meet? - So, Kelly's in the REME.

(Chris) It's the Royal electrical mechanical engineers.

And we met in the Falkland Islands.

I was over there working on Forces radio

and Kelly was posted over there with the army.

We have recently had a little baby called Holly.

(Katherine) So, Kelly has given you Holly.

And I hear that Kelly is about to go on a trip.

Yeah, she's gonna be going away

and I'm gonna be a stay-at-home dad.

Yes, Chris, yes. Thank you for this.

- There are stay-at-home dads. - Yeah, there are.

Stay-at-home husbands.

Thank you for pushing for equality.

Good for you. What do you want from the jewelers today?

So back in the day, um, when men went to war

they would give their wife or their girlfriend

a brooch called a sweetheart brooch.

So, I thought flip around

it's not the man going away, it's the wife going away.

So, you're going to give Kelly a sweetheart brooch.

What should the jewelers be thinking about

when they're competing to make this bespoke brooch for Kelly?

I'd love them to think about, um, our travelling.

We travel all around the world together.

Uh, the Falkland Islands is so massive in our hearts.

The Falkland Islands is also full of penguins.

So, our house is full of penguins.

Penguins everywhere. Pictures all over the wall.

- So, penguins, radio.. - Radio, yeah.

Would you like a little piece of, of Holly in that brooch?

Yeah, it should be great as well.

That'll be like the perfect brooch.

Let's see what they can do.

(female narrator) But before the jewelers take on their last challenge

they're going to find out whose chain collar's failed

to meet the judge's expectations.

If their plinth light is still on

their efforts have impressed.

But if it's turned off, that jeweler will have to work

extra hard to redeem themselves in the Bespoke challenge

where they could be in danger of going home.

Shaun and Solange have decided

to switch off the plinth lights of

Tamara

Lee

and Hugo.

- You alright? - Hmm.

Do your best today. It's what you can do.

- Yeah. - Do your best.

I haven't really shown what I'm capable of I think.

It does make me want to whether, um, I should be here..

When I came in, I didn't even look at it

because I thought it was gonna be off.

So, it's on. And I'm..

[exhales]

[laughs] Amazing.

- 'You alright?' - Yeah, yeah.

- You okay? - I'm alright, Lee.

(Hugo) Yesterday didn't really go quite I planned

as a necklace rather than a neck collar.

But today is the Bespoke day.

You know, I'm gonna smash it. So, it should be alright.

Hello, jewelers.

For the "Bespoke" challenge today

Chris would like you to make his engineering officer wife, Kelly

a small sweetheart brooch.

But only one of your designs will be chosen to be with Kelly

when she's deployed on her next tour of duty.

We want to see more of your skill range today.

Your brooch can be made using any method

but at least one element

must be cast from silver grain.

And there must be an additional layer of color.

We would like you to try and capture the sentiment

behind this gift.

'Remember Kelly will be taking this away with her'

'when she leaves her family.'

'So, she would really treasure it.'

Good luck.

(Katherine) 'You have five whole hours'

to complete this bespoke challenge.

You five hours starts now.

(female narrator) To help them craft a truly personalized sweetheart brooch

for Kelly, Chris has given the jewelers

a detailed brief of the most precious moments

in their life together.

And they've already come up with their designs.

(Hugo) It's really one of the best bits of the job, you know

when you can actually make something that you know

the customer is gonna value, passed on to generations

and cherish.

(Nicola) I find two days away from my son hard.

I can't imagine going away on duty.

So, I just wanna pour

everything I want into this piece.

(Sonny) I can 100 percent relate to their story especially

as we've got baby on the way.

And you can see obviously how close they are.

And it's kind of like looking forward

to that being the same case

for me and my little family. It's cute.

(female narrator) Sonny and his fiancee Leane, live in North London.

And are expecting their first baby in just three weeks time.

Before Sonny became a jeweler, he tried being a footballer

and a personal trainer.

(Sonny) I describe myself as an alternative fine jeweler.

And most fine jewelry is made traditionally

very old school methods.

I'm self taught, so, it's my approach

to how things would've been done back in the day.

(female narrator) Sonny's Brooch symbolizes Chris, Kelly and Holly

as a family of penguins walking on pebble beach.

And the penguin that represents baby Holly

will be enameled in blue.

Part the beauty of a bespoke piece

is that you can go along this journey with these people.

Which is really cool when you play a little role in it.

I love brooches. Do you?

(Solange) 'I do love brooches.'

They suddenly become a thing, you know

from loyalty to high street, they're everywhere.

Long live the brooch. I'm glad to hear it's coming back.

Can you tell me more about a sweetheart brooch?

The sweetheart brooch is almost like a family photo album

encapsulated into one piece of jewelry

that you can carry around and keep

it close to your heart.

It's like a comfort

to know that your family are with you.

What are you hoping to see from the jewelers?

What are you looking for?

Well, I really hope they

'take in the brief this time'

'so that, we don't have any chain collar situations.'

'But I really want to see their style.'

'Because when somebody commissions a bespoke piece'

'they go to certain jewelers because they like'

'their particular style.'

So, it's actually an incredibly

important factor.

That's when you really need to collaborate

with a good designer

because if my husband commissioned

a piece of jewelry for me

it would be a football with a piece of cheese on it.

[laughing]

(female narrator) The judges have asked that one element

of the brooch is cast.

So, as well as sheets of silver and copper

the jewelers have been given 13 grams of silver grain.

These tiny blobs are made by melting silver

to over 1000 degrees

then solidifying it into fragments using ice water.

Silver grain is ideal for casting

as it can be weighed out more precisely than a big bar

and has a greater surface area.

So, it melts faster and more evenly.

(Lee) The place where Chris proposed to Kelly

was a place called Pebble Island

and Falkland Islands were known

for their translucent pebbles.

That'll be my, um, casting grain element.

And then, penguin's beaks formed like a heart shape.

This is right up my street.

You could call me an old romantic.

(female narrator) Lee works in a jewelers shop in Pontypool in South Wales.

He's used to repairing other people's jewelry.

But he is eager to make his own designs.

(Lee) I really enjoy making the jewelry.

The big thing for me is handmade.

That's what I wanted is get that longevity into my work

that it can't be passed on and hopefully people in the future

would be saying, "Oh, it was made by Lee Appleby."

Casting grain, Something it's new to me.

So it's a little bit of a worry.

But, um, yeah. Give it a go.

(female narrator) Hugo's design focuses on Kelly's fondness

for penguins and Chris's passion for music

symbolized by a treble clef.

Is the treble clef the more intricate work, Hugo?

Yes, they're more intricate part of the design.

'The part that I'm casting is gonna be set'

'at the belly part of the penguin'

'which I'm then gonna texture'

'and then I'm gonna have the back of the penguin'

'oxidized, so it's getting slightly back.'

So, I think it's going to be quite nice.

(Shaun) 'Good.'

Am I the only one who feels like

we're are your parents

who are looming over you.

Eyes kind of feels like it.

Look at him.

- He's so grown up. - He's so grown up.

- Our boy. - Thanks, Hugo.

- Cheers. - Good luck.

(Katherine) Why don't you fill the car with gas once in a while?

(female narrator) To cast their brooch, the jewelers have to make a mold

into which they'll pour melted silver.

Today, they're using a method that dates back

to the sixth century.

And a material loved by budgerigar's cuttlefish bone.

Cuttlefish is really good for casting

because it's very easy to carve a shape into it.

Or you can also press a form into it.

(Sonny) You get a beautiful wavy texture with cuttlefish.

So, I'm gonna keep that texture on the casting.

(Nicola) The cuttlefish inside is really, really soft.

You can actually mark it with a nail.

So, so, I've just used a toothpick

to carve out the shape of my Holly leaf.

- 'Nicola.' - Hi.

How you doing with this challenge?

Yeah, I'm okay actually.

Well, I'll tell you what we like about you, Nicola, is that

you have a very strong personal style.

- Thank you. - And we can see it here again.

- Can you tell us about it-- - 'Of course.'

(Nicola) 'So, I'm gonna create a angular brooch'

'with a map of Europe on it.'

'Because when Kelly and Chris went to on a honeymoon'

'they went to lots of different places in France and Italy.'

'The element I'm gonna cast'

'is a holly leaf to represent their daughter, Holly.'

It's like a charm that's gonna hang

so you could add more, like a charm bracelet.

Well, it sounds like you've got a lot to do.

I do but I'm pleased with the speed in which I've cracked on.

- Thanks, Nicola. - Thank you.

Thank you.

(female narrator) To make their mold, the jewelers have

to carve their design into two cuttlefish bones

as a mirror image.

Then when they're put together and the space filled

with liquid silver

they should end up with a 3-D form.

(Kim) It's very important to have the two pieces of the cuttlefish

really snapping tight together

Because if I open, metal would just run out.

- 'Hi, Kim.' - 'Hi, Katherine.'

Can you just walk me through the design a little bit?

Um, and how you're gonna execute it.

(Kim) 'So, obviously, the daughter is called Holly.'

'So, for me, I had to do a holly leaf.'

'And I'm casting the pebbles'

'and I'm going to use, uh, copper for the red berries'

'to give another level of color to that.'

(Shaun) 'That's another layer of technique.'

So, what I would love to see today is that technical side.

I would like to see that elevated

some more today. It would be great.

I'm glad I've got bit more time so that I can really focus on

'just getting it perfectly which is what I meant to do.

Good luck. I look forward to seeing your piece later.

Lovely, thank you.

[grunting]

(female narrator) Once the cuttlefish is carved

it's all about the casting.

I've got no experience, previous experience of casting.

'I have smelted metal.'

But I've never done the tipping.

(female narrator) The silver grain needs to be melted

to what is known as a rolling melt

about 960 degree Celsius.

Then it must be tipped quickly into the mold.

If it cools too soon, it'll form an uneven shape.

(Lee) Hopefully, it was molten enough and it spread into..

But it looked pretty molten when it went in

so, fingers crossed and it stinks

so that's always a good sign, that was hot enough.

Ohh..

Well, it went in, but I don't know if it's gone in.

'At least it's in there and it's not all over my bench.'

It smells awful.

A rock and roll drama.

The spillage is always good to see.

(female narrator) But the jewelers will have no idea if it's worked

until it's cooled, and they've opened it up.

(Tamara) I can just see a blob of silver.

- Hi, Tamara. - Hello.

Hey, sorry to see that your light was off today.

Are you able to let that go and focus-

- I feel okay. - 'Good.'

'Cause I'm actually looking forward to making the brooch.

Well, I mean, just remember last week, your light was off

but you made such a beautiful pendant

so, um, you can do it again today.

I hope so.

'It's kind of a play on'

'you know, the military brooches'

'which have, like, ribbons, et cetera, hanging down.'

'So rather than ribbons, I'll have little'

'small abstract shapes and forms.'

That's great, Tamara, I would say..

...that I've watched you struggle with confidence

a little bit, but I think you're so talented and you can do this.

I believe in very little.

I believe in tacos and taxes and Tamara.

(Katherine) 'Okay, so it's saying a lot.'

Yeah, pool your emotion into the brooch

because that's what it is.

- It's a very emotional thing. - Yeah, totally, yeah.

- 'Good luck.' - Thank you.

- Good luck, Tamara. - Thank you.

(female narrator) Now the silver has had time to cool and harden in the cast.

All can be revealed.

Oh, my God.

It so nerve wracking.

So, okay..

Okay, this is the moment of truth.

[instrumental music]

Yup, it's done it.

Yeah, all in all pretty happy with it.

Yes, pretty good.

It's pretty much how I wanted.

Hmm..

(Tamara) I think it's worked.

It's exactly what I wanted.

So, I couldn't have asked for a perfect piece of casting.

So, I'm happy.

Looks amazing. That's worked. That's worked.

That is amazing.

Why would a cuttlefish in the wild

have this supernatural ability to withstand fire?

Did you know that after mating the female cuttlefish dies?

I hope the mating was worth it.

Never is, Kim.

Oh..

I've done a hurty.

(female narrator) Dan's brooch design combines a record from Chris's Time

as a DJ with Kelly's love of penguins.

He's also included a holly leaf to represent their daughter.

You've totally incorporated all of Chris and Kelly's brief.

I've tried to get in three things.

I thought anyone of three is gonna make it just too busy.

(Solange) 'And what about you, are you in there at all?'

Can we see your signature?

(Dan) 'Um, I don't know.'

Because penguins. I don't know how I do a Dan style penguin.

(female narrator) Dan lives and works in Frome in Somerset.

Despite selling some of his own pieces online

most of his time is spent making jewelry

to other people's designs.

(Dan) I'd love to have a little shop one day and-and just sort of

just sell work that I've made myself.

It's lovely to think that in 50, 100, 150th time somebody

could still have one of the engagement rings I've made.

It will be handed down to the next generation

which I think is a beautiful thing.

At the time it's okay, provided nothing goes wrong.

That's my big fear is everything gonna be fine

'but if the enameling doesn't go to plan'

and then it will start to get really tight.

(female narrator) To add color to their brooches

Dan, Sonny and Nicola have chosen to use enamel

by carefully sprinkling powdered glass

and then heating it in a kiln.

They should create a smooth finish.

(Nicola) I'm just mixing the enamel colors and hopefully

that will look...like the ocean.

(female narrator) It's a delicate and skilled process

but I'm sure they're all really practiced at it.

I've never enameled before, but how hard can it be.

- How you doing? - I don't know.

[laughs]

(Shaun) 'The enamel's fire at 790 degrees.'

'So they've got to really keep an eye on that'

because silver melts at 960 degrees.

'If they take their eyes off the bowl, the enamel could burn'

or the piece could melt.

And that would be disastrous.

(Nicola) 'It looks okay.'

I would want to do another layer, but I just

don't think I've got time.

(Sonny) 'Ah, it looks a mess.'

'How have I done that?'

- 'Are you out?' - 'Yeah.'

I'm going in then.

(Sonny) 'I'm too stressful, that me.'

Hi, Jewelers, 15 minutes to finish, please.

[instrumental music]

It's become a puddle of silver.

(Dan) 'Oh, no.'

I took me eye of the bowl, and it's gone

into the ether.

Ten minutes, please, jewelers. You have ten minutes left.

Okay, I'll have to finish this bit quick.

Just going to get the pin on and then we're away.

[intense music]

It's all gonna wrong. All of the sudden, a funny five minutes.

I'm so sorry. Well, I'll let you finish.

See you. Good luck, good luck.

(Lee) I think, I'm gonna leave it there.

Do I want to do more? I don't know. Umm!

- Hi, Kim. - Not now.

I know. I don't know why I'm talking to Kim, she's fire.

[laughs] Please, not right now.

One minute, jewelers

to get your brooches on the plinth.

[intense music]

(Katherine) '15 seconds..'

Don't run, you have to do a penguin model, yep.

(Dan) 'Very efficient.'

[intense music]

(Katherine) 'Five, four..'

'One.'

Well done, another challenge

under your belts.

Well done.

[instrumental music]

(female narrator) In just five hours, the jewelers have each

created a bespoke sweetheart brooch.

But whose piece have captured the emotion

behind Chris's brief

crafting a high quality piece of jewelry

with contrasting color in their own personal style.

Sonny's piece is first to face the judges' critique..

(Solange) 'His design is very sweet.'

'And we know that Chris and Kelly love a Penguin.'

There's a beauty in simplicity.

Technically, the enamel has sprayed all over the place

to be honest, um..

Overall, I think, it's tactile, it's sweet, it's endearing.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) This is Dan's brooch. What do you say?

(Solange) There were two holly leaves there with berries

'and in the enameling, they got melted.'

'However, as usual, he's made it very beautifully.'

The only thing missing is their lovely daughter.

(Shaun) It's a real shame that Dan didn't complete

with the enameled holly 'cause that pop of color

would have really finish this piece beautifully.

(female narrator) Up next is Nicholas map of Europe.

(Shaun) 'I'm actually quite saddened.'

'She wanted to have the seas blue enamel'

'and unfortunately the enamel has burned'

and it sprayed onto the other areas

'which is a real shame.'

But what I do love about it is.

'It's Nicola, it's her style.'

(Solange) 'Definitely, you know, the hardest thing for any artist'

is to know when to stop.

And I think she could have stopped a lot earlier

'and perfected it and refined it.'

'It could have been something really marvelous.'

(female narrator) Next, it's Tamara.

(Shaun) 'I am very pleased to see this piece.'

'I think it's very refined, very elegant.'

The pebbles are sweet, and there's three of them

to resemble the three in the family.

Contrast of textures.

'Enamel is there.'

- Does it make noise? - Yeah.

It's got a really sweet little ring to it.

I don't know if you want noise with enemies about..

[laughs]

(Shaun) 'Very good point. Very good point.'

'I'm, yeah, overall, I'm very pleased with this piece.'

You know, this is the piece I would wear, bravo.

I'm really happy that she's come back

from yesterday's mistake.

(Solange) 'It's very feminine.'

'It's got lovely movement.'

She's made it look beautiful all the way around.

I think she should be pleased with herself

she's definitely come back from the brink.

[indistinct chatter]

(female narrator) Kim is next.

She has pebbles.

'She has a Holly leaf and berries.'

'But I'm not sure there's enough

of the Chris and Kelly story there.'

'And it's a little bit roughly made.'

There's a lot of solder run from the veins of the leaf.

The solder has run out from all of that.

(Shaun) 'A little bit messy.'

'Overall, I think technically, it could have been better.'

And there was so much more in Chris and Kelly's story

that could have been incorporated into that piece.

I think it's a little bit flat.

'The pebbles are the three dimension.'

'They're a little bit rough.'

(Solange) 'I think this is the other side.'

You know, Kim's was very subtle incorporating the brief.

'And this one's all very obvious because we have virtually'

every element of the brief in this.

(female narrator) Last but not least

it's Hugo penguin on a treble clef.

(Solange) 'Hugo, that's just lovely.'

'You know, he's done such a beautiful thing with the brief.'

'He's got the musical element'

'and he's got the Penguins that they love'

um...who looks like he's kind of flying away

on the wave of musical sounds.

I am ecstatic about this piece.

(Shaun) 'This is exactly what I've been waiting for.'

A combination of perfect

'technical skills fused with really slick seamless design.'

It's a beautiful piece.

(female narrator) Before the judges can decide who goes home

Chris must choose which of the sweetheart broaches

he'd like to give to his wife, Kelly.

- Chris! - Hello.

Hey, so nice to see you.

(female narrator) To take on tour with the Royal

electrical and mechanical engineers.

[instrumental music]

Sonny has gonna with the Penguins.

He's made a family on Pebble Beach there.

Wow, these people are talented.

Hugo has done a Penguin and a trouble clef.

(Chris) 'Oh, that's beautiful.'

'This one's just. It's really subtle, isn't it?'

This is Tamara's.

(Chris) 'The metal thing, that's..'

- 'That's a genius idea.' - 'Mm-hmm.'

(Chris) 'Really good idea.'

(Katherine) 'So many beautiful brooches'

'to choose from.'

It's such a hard decision, um, but I think

I have chosen one that I would like to take to Kelly.

- Well, don't tell me yet. - Okay.

You reveal it in your own time. Let's go.

Let's go.

If the client does choose me, that will be amazing.

And I'll be super happy.

But I just don't want to go home today.

(Sonny) In this scenario where there's other really talented

to have your piece of work picked out of bunch

it'll be an honor, of course.

(Hugo) I feel like I ticked all the boxes from the brief

I'll be over the moon if he picks my one.

It would mean everything, but again

it's all in his hands now.

(female narrator) But who will be next to leave

the "All That Glitters" workshop?

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) It's been another week of very tough challenges.

Who under performed?

Lee's necklace was a necklace. It wasn't a chain.

And his brooch was not remarkable either.

So, you know, he could be in danger.

For me, Kim, didn't shine as brilliantly as she could have

because her chain, it just lost

that fluidity for me in the design..

And then when it came to the brooch

I don't really feel she took on board

the client's story as much as she could have.

We gave them enameling to do

which is a notoriously difficult technique.

Dan had a disaster because his enamel melted.

And Nichola's burnt.

You never know who the client will choose.

Exactly.

Who are you leaning towards for Jeweler of the Week?

It's such a hard one, isn't it?

Because one challenge they can really fold

and then they can pull it back.

And Tamara and Hugo did exactly that this week.

They both had their lights off.

Then they brought it back with their brooches.

(Katherine) Well, I'm excited to see who the client chooses.

And we're going to find out who's Jewelry of the Week.

And sadly who's leaving the "All The Glitters"

'workshop tonight.'

(female narrator) The judges have taken the client's choice of brooch

into account before making their final decision

for Jeweler Of The Week

and who will be going home?

[intense music]

(Katherine) 'Hi, Jewelers.'

Congratulations on completing

another tough round of challenges.

You've all created some stunning pieces.

And now we have to hear from Chris whose sweetheart brooch

he's chosen to accompany Kelly

'on her next deployment tour.'

(Chris) First of all, I just like to say thank you so much.

It's so humbling to know that you've made these

for my wife and you've listened to our story.

They're all beautiful.

You're so charming.

He really is, he's the people's prince.

[laughs]

Um.. I kind of thought what would Kelly like?

'And the broach I've chosen was from..'

Hugo.

[applauding]

Yay!

(Katherine) 'Well, that's not all the good news.'

The judges have, of course, chosen another

Jeweler of the week.

And this jeweler was able to listen

to critique and come back fighting.

Jeweler of the week is

Hugo!

[upbeat music]

[applauding]

I couldn't be happier, I couldn't be happier.

Unfortunately, we do have to send

one jeweler home from the workshop today.

Taking into account both the challenges

the judges have decided that the jeweler leaving us today is..

...Kim.

I'm so sorry, Kim. Well done.

[applauding]

(Katherine) Everything you made was so beautiful.

I'm quite upset to be going home

but I kind of expected it, I think, really.

and they were totally justified.

Just the time constraint for me was just too hard.

Um, actually, I've had a brilliant time.

It's been an amazing experience.

And I am so glad that I've been a part of this.

This week's been quite intense

and a lot of them have come back from disaster.

Hugo transcended his mistake yesterday

and he really nailed it today.

(Hugo) Honestly, I couldn't be happier.

It means so much to me, the fact that Chris picks

mine out out of all those beautiful pieces.

I know that's going to be something

that his family is gonna cherish.

And hopefully pass down generations.

It feels amazing to get "Jeweler of the Week."

And I hopefully, I can keep it going.

[upbeat music]

[theme music]