Original subtitles

[theme music]

(Katherine) Dazzling diamond earrings

necklaces adorned with rubies and sapphires.

Beautiful bangles of silver and rings of gold

objects of desire

the world over.

I think it's high time we celebrate

the people up and down the land

putting in the hours to make us sparkle.

And what better way to do that than throw

a TV competitions/talent search format?

[clanking]

[fire blazing]

British jewelry making is booming

hidden away in workshops across the country

is an army of up-and-coming jewelers

all hoping to become the next big thing.

I'm gonna crack around it and smash it.

[fire crackling]

(Katherine) And over the next six weeks

eight of them will battle it out using precious metals.

(Dan) Big hand, tiny things

it's gonna be a struggle.

(Katherine) Gems..

Looks like a slice of watermelon.

(Katherine) ...and surprising materials.

I am making a necklace

out of cable ties.

(Katherine) To make pieces..

...that could last for centuries.

This is gonna be treasured

handed down to generations.

I love it, it's so pretty.

(Katherine) As each week they take on two challenges.

What would you be excited to see from the jewelers?

Sexiness.

(Katherine) The best seller

a chance to create jewelry

everyone will want.

We have a big hole.

Smashed it.

(Katherine) And the bespoke

to design and make a one off piece

for someone special.

The jewelers will be judged

by two of the biggest names

in the business.

Jewelry maker to the stars Shaun Leane.

He's made pieces for everyone

from Alexander McQueen

to royalty.

(Shaun) I'm gonna to find the new fearless

driven and ambitious jeweler of our generation.

This would definitely be your best seller.

(Katherine) And world renowned jewelry designer

Solange Azagury-Partridge

whose acclaimed pieces are displayed in museums

around the world, including the V&A.

(Solange) I don't have a poker face.

If I don't like something

I'm afraid it will be very apparent.

I don't think it's very original.

Okay.

(Katherine) To stay in the workshop

they must show creative flair.

It's exhausting, all this work.

(Sonny) 'This could be a terrible idea'

but if you're going to go out, go out in flame.

(Katherine) And a huge range of technical skills.

Buckle in. Ooh!

You ever thought of just buying jewelry?

(Katherine) Or it's time to go home.

Keep going, don't give up.

(Katherine) Who will pour their heart and soul

into all they create and truly shine?

It's a little bit high.

Jewelry is so tense.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) Welcome to "All That Glitters."

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) To find our bright new star

we've come to the place that's home to more jewelers

than anywhere else in Europe

a jewelry making Mecca for over 500 years.

People come here from all over the world

to hone their skills and sell their wares.

But where are we?

London. Milan. Munich.

No, we're in Birmingham.

[instrumental music]

The Birmingham School of Jewelry

is the perfect location for our jewelers

to prove they're more than diamonds in the rough.

'How are you feeling?'

I've got a really fizzy tummy.

(Sonny) I've never had my work judged

scrutinized or compared

and I'm feeling quite apprehensive

but I think that will all clear

once we get to the good stuff.

(Katherine) Set in the heart of this historic jewelry quarter

our workshop has been specially kitted out

with the finest equipment.

A bad workman blames his tools

and I can't really say anything bad about the tools, so..

(Katherine) With their own workbench

and everything they could possibly need

it's time to bring the skills.

The first challenge is designed

to test their individual style

but be something everyone will want.

It's the best seller.

[instrumental music]

Hello, jewelers and welcome

to the "All That Glitters" workshop.

Here to preside and scrutinize

over all things bright and sparkly.

It's master jeweler Shaun Leane.

And with an awards list as long as her arm

it's Solange Azagury-Partridge.

[applause]

'Each week you will be given a challenge'

'with a different material'

'to start off with, is an absolute classic, silver.'

Today we are asking you to make

three silver bangles

'Shaun, Solange, what are you looking for?'

(Solange) Each bangle must have a different style

and design, but they should all complement each other.

(Shaun) Each of the bangles must have

an inner circumference of eight inches.

We really want to see your personal stamp on these bangles.

But as a best seller

'they must have mass appeal.'

Dan, how much time would you like

to make these bangles?

Three days?

I will counter offer

three hours.

- 'Thanks for that.' - 'Good luck.'

Your time starts now.

[timer beeping]

[indistinct chatter]

I love Solange Azagury-Partridge

she's one of my favorite jewelers.

I'm really pleased it's her.

Slightly a bit scared.

(Sonny) It's pretty amazing to have two

such sought after jewelers actually

judge our work.

Which is like, "whoa, it's pretty cool."

(Katherine) Many of the jewelers work for other people

creating their designs.

So, as well as showing technical prowess

they now have an opportunity to demonstrate

their own personal style.

(Dan) Usually, I'm doing this very pieces

I should try and come up with best sellers.

Reproducible pieces isn't something that I do

a lot of, but yeah, hopefully it will be good.

(Katherine) But which of the jewelers can create

a best selling set of bangles?

To create their best selling trio of bangles

our jewelers are using a 1.2 millimeter

thick sheet of silver.

(Dan) I really enjoy using silver.

You know, it's what you start on generally

and it's what you can afford to use.

It's such a soft metal to work in.

So, you can make a mistake very, very, very easily

and we can't have that, we can't have that.

[laughs]

Shaun, very first challenge

tell me, why silver?

So, silver is a beautiful

precious, noble material.

We can use it to test their technical skills

their design capabilities

and really find out who they are.

Are bangles hard to make?

They take good skill.

A bangle is a bracelet

but it's a rigid form

which would slide on to the hand.

(Katherine) What could go wrong?

(Shaun) If they don't cut the right length

their bangle or could become too small or too big.

But I think the real test for me

here will be the soldering.

So many things to think about in this first challenge.

(Shaun) 'Yeah.'

[instrumental music]

[humming] Coo-coo-coo. Cutting.

(Katherine) To turn their one sheet of silver into three bangles

the jewelers require one vital

piece of jewelry making equipment.

So, where is the saws?

Sometimes the saw blade can get a bit sticky.

So, you have to use a lubricant

so that way it doesn't get jammed up

and if it gets jammed up, it can get stuck.

[metal scraping]

And you can stop a saw blade.

Ooh.

(Sonny) It depends on how impatient you are.

Let's not say I was rushing this one.

[laughing]

(Katherine) Sonny is 26

and has been making jewelry for five years

from his small studio in North London.

Jewelry'd be my third career

my first, I was in the new setup with Tottenham Hotspur.

My second career was personal training.

And I'd got out of there sharpish

and fell into jewelry.

I googled it, literally.

I'm completely self-taught.

So, my training was the internet and books.

I've doubted myself for years

and entering something like this is

gonna prove to me that I am actually good enough.

A cliche, but diamonds are created under pressure.

[metal scraping]

(Katherine) Sonny's designs focuses on the key principles

of the Bauhaus movement

with clean lines and minimal detailing.

- 'Sonny, hi.' - 'Hello.'

- How are you feeling? - Um, I'm feeling pretty good.

Quite calm and surprisingly

nothing's gone wrong.

Are you always this chill?

I try to be as chill as possible

it's still very early days.

- It is. - It's very early days.

Day one, Sonny.

Day one, task one.

I played it a touch safer, I feel

just to grease the groove?

- Yeah. - So I forced myself, "Okay.

'"Let's get the fundamentals right.'

'Keeping myself sane that way."'

Good. You're doing what you know and you're doing it well.

- Thank you very much. - Good luck.

Thank you.

[indistinct chatter]

[thudding]

(Katherine) 'Tamara, hello.'

How's it all going?

Alright I think.

Tell me the plan.

(Tamara) 'Three bangles, two of them convex.'

- 'Yes.' - 'And one of them is concave.'

'I want it to have a three dimensional quality.'

And will the convex one be the same

dimension as the--

All of them will have the same dimension

and the same height.

'I looked at a lot of ancient ethnic jewelry'

you know, imagined all these women

with like bangles up their arm

'like Cleopatra or someone like that.'

That was their kind of dowry

that they used to wear, they used to wear

their wealth, they used to carry their wealth.

Well, I had a dowry because I'm-I'm from Sri Lanka.

So, when I was, I think a couple of weeks old

we got our ears pierced and that's part of your dowry.

Yeah, so you can gather the gold..

- Gather the gold. - On your body.

(Katherine) Originally from Essex

forty-seven-year-old, Tamara, makes her jewelry

in a creative arts building in Central London

and sells her work to private clients.

(Tamara) My friends called me Calamity Tam

'cause I'm always tripping up and bumping into things.

But when I'm in the workshop making

I'm just on it.

I'm very zen and calm

and together.

I decided to take on this challenge

because I wanted to learn more

and I thought "Yeah, and let-let's see

let's see what happens."

(Katherine) Do you think you can achieve this in three hours?

I'm going to give it my best shot.

- Yeah. Be confident. - Yeah.

I've just gotta go for it.

[metal scraping]

Right now, I'm sawing

'uh, bangle two.'

'It's gonna have the word "hope"'

'in the middle with a little heart.'

I feel a bit better now that we're behind the bench

doing what we love doing.

(Katherine) 23 year old Naomi is a trainee goldsmith

and works for a small jewelry firm in Sussex.

(Naomi) I started making jewelry

when I was at school actually

and we made big crazy neck pieces

and my neck piece got featured in a magazine.

But now, I'd say I'm becoming more contemporary in style.

I love handmade jewelry

everything is bespoke

in the workshop that I work for.

I think anyone has a chance to win

but I don't know if it's going to be me

as long as I don't melt anything.

That will be, that will be okay.

[blowing]

That's done, and it's a nice straight line

which is quite good.

[metal clicking]

[machine whirring]

(Katherine) To ensure their design is flawless

the jewelers add their embellishments

before forming the silver strip into a bangle shape.

I've drilled a hole so that I can fit

the saw blade right through this

'cause I'm not cutting in from the outside

I'm d-doing a contained design.

This does require a lot of concentration.

So, I've got to keep it careful.

(Katherine) The concept behind Kim's trio of bangles

focuses on the forms and textures of trees and leaves.

(Kim) I think it might have mass appeal.

And I think nature is quite popular in jewelry.

And-and they're quite simple and quite graphic.

(Katherine) And Kim isn't the only jeweler

drawing inspiration from Mother Nature.

Hi, Dan, what are you planning to do?

It's gonna be a bee based design.

(Solange) 'So, the shape of the hexagonal'

'I suppose is reflecting the shape of that honeycombs.'

(Dan) 'Yeah, it's just tying it in with the honeycomb shape'

'I've done on this one.'

- 'You like bees?' - I.. Big fan.

- We need those guys. - 'We do.'

(Katherine) Dan is 40 and lives in Frome in Somerset.

He works making pieces for other jewelers

but he's keen to design more jewelry of his own.

(Dan) I'm really looking forward to making things

I'm not used to making and get me thinking

um, and just yeah, get me creative again.

I've done so much work for the people

that I actually sit and really find the star

that I enjoy making.

I-I'm hoping that would really, really come out.

(Katherine) To get the precise internal circumference

of a circular bangle requires the jewelers

to make exact measurements of eight inches

before cutting their silver.

(Kim) If I make these too short

then, yes, I will have made a fatal error.

So, yes, I'm really trying to get this very accurate.

(Katherine) But irregular shaped bangles

need to be constantly measured

while they're assembled

so they hit the exact size.

(Shaun) 'Quite interested'

'in the hexagonal?'

Yes.

How confident you feel that you will get

that particular bangle

to the eight inch?

It's gonna be a weird one to-to measure

'but I think when I do fit it together'

it's gonna be, uh, spot on.

Interesting. I'm feeling very confident, Hugo.

I like that.

(Katherine) 23 year old Hugo started

his jewelry making traineeship

at the age of 15

and now works for a jewelers

in Haywards Heath.

(Hugo) Growing up, my dad was a graphic designer.

So, he was very involved in art and creativity.

I've always sort of wanted to go down that route.

Anything that I do, I like to perfect it

and make sure it's best it can be

and if it's not, I'll carry on until it is.

Obviously I want to showcase my skills the best I can

and, uh, hope that

I don't mess up too bad.

[laughing]

And you've known you wanted to do this

for a long time, haven't you?

Yes, I mean I actually started

making jewelry when I was 15.

- Sounds like someone I know. - Same as me.

Yeah, I mean, straight out of school

I didn't do anything else, the only other job

I've really had was a paper round.

'I met a guy that made jewelry'

and I ended up going to his workshop for work experience

while I was at school.

And then I just been there since really

been there ever since.

I'm bang on track, which is good.

So, if there's any like tea going or anything..

...that'd be nice.

(Tamara) I think I'm behind, but

I can start forming them into the profiles

that are convex and concave.

I'll feel a lot better. Yeah.

I just need to make sure this joint is really good.

It should be okay.

Right. I need to go get the solder now.

And not drop all the tools.

(Katherine) One of the most essential

and skilled processes

in jewelry making is the art of soldering.

A flame is used to melt small

pieces of metal alloy called solder.

This acts like glue

and should seamlessly join two pieces of metal

together permanently.

(Shaun) Good solder join is

when they joining the two metals together

that they touch very tightly

so that when they run the solder down

it's invisible.

They need to be focused

make sure they put a steady hand

and they're keeping their eye on the flame.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) To get a perfect join

the jewelers need to get their soldering

right the first time.

Multiple attempts or too much solder

will result in a join that stands out.

[fire blazing]

(Sonny) Soldering next.. It's alright.

The soldering went absolutely fine.

Uh, that one went to plan.

Oh, I'm gonna need to rerun this

because it's just a bit..

'It's nice on the outside'

'but it's really ugly on the inside.'

'It needs to be nice and shiny.'

'And it's not going to be that if it's got a big line'

'from the joint, I need to just resolder it.'

Right now my mind is like, "Ooh!"

Um, so I can't even put the solder on.

'So, I'm just gonna slowly heat it up.'

Ah, it went open.. Ah..

'Yeah, that's a kind of problem.'

[sighs] Such is life.

'I need to just get it right.'

[instrumental music]

In these moments, it's very important

that you don't give up so..

That's what I'm doing.

Just cry all out.

Do you know how much time we have left?

Thirty minutes.

Jewelers, you have 30 minutes remaining.

[soft thudding]

I'm just malleting my main feature bangles

that the sizes need to be eight inches round.

I'm fairly confident I've got the size right

but I'm not finished enough.

I know I'm not finished enough.

Um, so..

(Katherine) A mandrel is an ideal tool to create a rounded shape.

It's also useful for gaining precious millimeters

to get that perfect inner circumference.

I, um, draw a little line, which basically marks

the dimensions that are required.

So, if I fit this on

it should fit.

This one's a little slightly on this sides.

But if you were to measure each sort of star

it will measure out as, uh, eight inch.

- 'Does it look small?' - 'Yeah it looks small.'

[machine whirring]

[soft thudding]

It just not working.

Nothing's working.

I really don't know what do.

- No.. - How's it all going?

- Very badly. - Why?

Just really mistimed this.

I thought, well, I could have done the more convex

than concave, but I've not had a chance of doing them.

None of them are gonna be finished.

I was so ambitious.

- Yeah, but I think the judges.. - I know that.

...will see your ambition.

You need to really back yourself.

Yeah.

Do you know how confident

a straight white man would be right now?

- Yeah, I know. - Think of Boris Johnson.

How pleased he'd be with himself right now?

[laughing]

- He'd be like, "nailed it." - Sorry.

Sometimes we have to think like these men.

- Yeah. - Alright.

I'll leave you to get on with the glisten.

- Thank you. - Think like a white man.

Yes?

[instrumental music]

'Let's start wrapping it up.'

Just ten minutes left in the challenge.

Of course, the solder isn't amazing

right now I'm ambering

to kind of get away the rough surface.

[instrumental music]

[machine whirring]

Nicola, how you doing like mentally and emotionally?

I've got a lot to do.

If you could finish the other one?

- That'd be good. - That's no problem.

Thanks.

I could..

[music continues]

Well, I'm just engraving the soldered piece.

I used a bar above the stone setting

but it's got very sharp edge

so I'm just using it to cut lines basically.

The whole thing, they looked

hardly bee like, if you squint.

(Tamara) I'm not happy with the finish on them.

I just want to keep going.

(Katherine) It's the final minutes

please place your bangles on your plinth.

That's it.

- I tried. - Right, let's get this on.

(Katherine) 'Three..'

...two..

I'll put the best one in the middle.

(Katherine) 'One.'

You can do no more, jewelers.

Thank you.

What a challenge.

[sighs]

Mm.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) After three hours of designing, sawing and polishing

all eight jewelers have completed

their very first best seller challenge.

But which of them has crafted their trio of bangles

with the strongest design concept

an eight inch internal circumference

and a high quality finish?

Okay, I'm going to actually have a closer look, Lee.

Okay, carry on.

He's got a monocle like a villain.

It's called a loupe.

(Shaun) One of the tests here is to have

a beautiful solder joint

so that it's not seen.

Good. Very good.

Maybe we need to measure them.

We will, with this.

Size isn't everything, Katherine.

I think size is everything in jewelry actually.

I'm afraid to say.

- Every millimeter, every.. - Yes.

'Every half a millimeter counts.'

- Oh, perfect. - 'Very good.'

- Very good. - Thank you.

[instrumental music]

This one's having a great time.

- This one's on the sunroof. - Yeah, yeah.

That is one for a very special toddler.

(Shaun) 'Can you explain what went wrong'

'with the size?'

I don't even think I need the mandrel

to see that this one's quite small.

I sort of overlooked

how-how much it was going to sort of take off

when I sort of downed the edges.

It's a shame 'cause if that was

eight inches, that would have been a perfect bangle.

(Katherine) Next is Nicola's architectural

trio of bangles.

They're different, but totally complimentary.

but it's just that this one's a little bit rough.

They work together though.

Thank you.

- Hi, Naomi. - Hi.

- Naomi. - Hi.

- How are you? - Um, nervous.

(Shaun) 'Aw, don't be.'

(Solange) 'What's the concept of all of them?'

- 'Um..' - 'I mean 'cause--'

'The concept was finishing'

I think for me to do, but you know..

(Shaun) 'The engraving on that first bangle'

'I actually think it's really nice and deep.'

But..

I do think this one

has let the set down

a little bit.

'Hm, yeah, I see a little bit'

'of a solder joint on the inside there.'

But there are some levels of good skillmanship there.

Thank you.

[instrumental music]

Do you think it shows your personal touch?

I think so. All my work is quite simple.

- 'It's to the point.' - Yeah.

I like the sound bangles make.

Well, the sound vibrations are supposed to do something

to the energy around you say.

- Really? - Yeah. Yes.

I had no idea there was a spiritual

connection to the sound.

It's not just jewelry.

I have a spiritual connection

to eight inches and now I'm gonna check..

[laughing]

Yes.

Thank you. Little shy.

- Finally. - A bit more shy almost.

They do get a bit small

but they are very beautiful.

- Very cohesive. - 'Thank you.'

- 'Thank you very much.' - 'Thank you very much.'

(Katherine) Next up is Kim, with her design

celebrating British trees.

How do you feel about the piercing out?

It's-it's a little bit uneven

and I s-struggled to get it really smooth and..

Yes, that's what you can see as the light hits it.

(Shaun) 'There's a lovely consistency in the design'

but the shape is

quite buckled.

I know.

[instrumental music]

(Shaun) 'The concept's lovely, bees, honeycomb'

'the shape has been repeated here'

'with this hexagonal bangle'

'In the piercing out here with the honeycomb.'

(Solange) 'They are obviously very complimentary.'

'I think they're very wearable.'

Engraving's good.

'I'm hoping that this is eight inches'

'in circumference.'

- And.. - 'Ooh, nearly.'

- Just short. - Just a bit shy.

Let's see the big one with the little

scribbly bee, I like this one.

- Yeah. Eight inches. - Eight inches.

- Well done. - Well done.

Not very many criticisms.

Excellent.

(Katherine) Last to face the judges is Tamara

with her ancient Egyptian inspired bangles.

(Solange) 'Is the texture and patterns significant at all?'

(Tamara) 'I wanted an element of sort of hieroglyphics..'

- 'Or ancient symbols.' - 'Oh, interesting.'

This one's a little bit rough around the edges.

- And uh, and also uneven. - 'Hmm.'

There is a consistency, the pattern that you've engraved

'but you haven't achieved the convex and concave design.'

'It's a shame that we didn't get that.'

- 'Thanks, Tamara.' - Thank you.'

Thank you, everyone

for a brilliant first day.

Shaun and Solange are now going to discuss

who was sparkling extra bright today

and who was a little rough around the edges.

'And when you come back tomorrow'

'you'll find that plinth light maybe on'

'or it may be turned off.'

And if your light is off

then you need to try extra hard to impress

'in the next challenge because you are vulnerable'

'to leave the "All That Glitters" workshop forever.'

Thank you, guys.

Goodnight.

(Katherine) With an empty workshop

the judges now have to select

the jewelers who have impressed them

and whose lights will remain on

but they also need to decide

which lights will be switched off.

(Dan) If my lights off, I'm gonna have to step up my game

work a little bit harder.

Um, and if it's, um, if it's on

excellent.

Who do you think is gonna be vulnerable

in the challenge tomorrow?

What about Hugo?

(Shaun) The brief wasn't met

but I feel he has potential.

(Katherine) Sonny?

(Shaun) Every bangle was of very

similar style

but I was expecting something more.

Yeah, a little bit boring.

- Hmm. - I'm sorry.

Naomi had a bit of a hard time.

Unfortunately, there was this

moment of lack of confidence.

Yeah, I-I mean, the best thing

about her work was the beautiful engraving.

(Naomi) It was nice that they-they picked up on something good.

I'm not expecting that my light will be on tomorrow.

But I think you just need to go in with a positive attitude

and try your best.

- Tamara. What do you think? - Mm-hm.

(Shaun) I think due to timing and panic

she lost the convex

and concave formation

which is the most

interesting part of the concept.

I'm ready to walk in

and see the light off tomorrow.

Um, but I am determined

to turn it back on.

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) A new day brings the jewelers

a brand new challenge.

[instrumental music]

The bespoke is designed to test

their ability to create

a custom made piece of jewelry

for an individual client.

- Hello. - How are you?

Very good. And yourself?

Good. Doing well, thank you.

(Katherine) In a few days' time, Ben's mother Andy

will be collecting an MBE

from Her Majesty, the Queen

and he wants to mark the occasion

by surprising her with a hand crafted

piece of jewelry.

Ben, thank you for coming

to the "All That Glitters" workshop today.

I cannot wait

to hear more about your mum, Andy.

So, mum's, uh, 75.

'She's a single parent'

'uh, three boys, but she's also a foster parent.'

And she's been fostering

for about 35 years now

and has fostered

around 150 children in that time.

Wow. Andy has done so much good work

fostering all of these children

that she has been awarded an MBE.

Yeah. Uh, she-she's always had..

'She grew a heart, s-she allowed her love to travel'

'to others that needed it.'

Tell me about Andy's personality

because the jeweler's will want

to incorporate that in the bespoke piece.

(Ben) 'She-she's a one off person.'

'She loves to go to Ibiza.'

'She likes to walk around our town in the summer'

'with no shoes on, just barefoot and free.'

(Katherine) 'Connected to the earth.'

- She's a.. - Nature?

Not-not an aged, an aging hippie.

(Katherine) 'What can we have the jewelers make Andy for the palace?'

A kind of delicate necklace with perhaps a pendant hanging down

would be, would be, beautiful and

and I think that she would really appreciate that.

(Katherine) 'Well, Ben, I am so touched that'

you have chosen us to honor your mother, Andy.

- She just sounds like the best. - Yeah.

Really highlights

what a terrible single mother I have been.

I'm sure you're deserving of all the jewelry

that you get as well.

[laughing] Thank you, Ben.

I think that we can help you out today.

Yeah, that would be wonderful.

(Katherine) But before the jewelers receive their bespoke brief

they're going to find out whose best seller bangles

lived up to expectations.

If a jewelers plinth light is on

they've impressed.

But if it's turned off

that jeweler will have to work harder to redeem themselves.

Or they could be in danger of going home.

(Kim) I'm feeling more nervous than yesterday.

(Katherine) The judges have switched off

the lights of Naomi..

...Hugo..

...Tamara..

[sighs]

...and Kim.

- 'Are you alright?' - I kind of half expected it.

So, I'm alright.

'Not gonna hold me back at all.'

Is your light broken?

- Is mine broken? - Yeah.

Uh, no, it's just not on.

[laughing]

The light being off hasn't affected my confidence at all.

It's a minor setback because, you know

I know today I'm going to redeem myself.

- Feeling alright? - Yeah. It's alright..

You'll be fine. You'll be fine.

I knew I would have my lights off.

I'm not surprised.

I just want to make sure that

the execution's better before today's challenge.

[intense music]

Hello, jewelers.

Tamara, Naomi, Kim, Hugo

'I'm so sorry to see that your lights are turned off.'

'But don't despair.'

There's plenty of time to impress

in today's bespoke challenge.

Let me introduce you to you our newest client, Ben.

'Ben's mum, Andy, needs a stunning'

'silver pendant to receive her MBE'

from the Queen, and only one of you

can be chosen by Ben.

'As ever our wonderful judges'

'will be watching you throughout the challenge'

and deciding who's leaving us at the end of today.

(Shaun) 'As well as Ben's brief I would really like'

to see your pendant take on a three dimensional form.

'A bespoke piece should have a real personal quality to it.'

(Solange) 'And remember, the Queen has'

'some of the finest jewelry in the world.'

So, no pressure there.

You have four hours and your time starts now.

[instrumental music]

(Sonny) 'The bespoke side of things is kind of what every jeweler'

wants to do, is one of one

it's for someone and you know you've got something

'directly to work towards.'

This sort of thing would mean a little bit more

than the average off the shelf piece of jewelry.

(Katherine) For a jewelry designer to make a truly individual piece

they need to know as much about the person

wearing it as possible.

Ben has given the jewelers a detailed brief

and created a mood board of Andy's passions

for inspiration.

He's even brought the dress she'll be wearing

to the palace.

(Tamara) I'm going to make a stylized rainbow hanging from it

will be a sun and that will represent Andy

and the whole idea is that

after the storm of whatever

childhood these kids have gone through

they'll have this rainbow of hope through Randy.

I'm really excited about making it.

Hm! Okay.

I better start working.

(Katherine) The jewelers have all been given 80 grams of silver

cuttings to make the main element of their pendant

as well as offcuts of colored metals

like brass and copper to add finer details.

(Kim) First job of the day is transfer the design

onto the silver

in a very fluid and organic way

because that is how I work.

(Katherine) Kim is taking Andy's love of nature

as inspiration

and is designing an oak leaf pendant

with forget-me-not flower details.

I want to give the meaning that

I feel in all the plants and flowers.

I'll pass it on into the pits that I'm going to make.

(Katherine) Kim is 56 and from Portsmouth.

She's been making and selling her work

at arts and craft fairs

for over 20 years.

For me, this is a huge leap

because I have kept myself to myself

for years and years, but I just want

to see how far I can go.

I can't say hundred percent how I'm gonna handle it

but I feel I'm quite strong under pressure.

And just getting almost what I got to do.

Okay, my light is not on

but I've got another thing to do today

which I know I'm gonna really enjoy doing.

Uh, I'm just gonna get on with it and do my best.

[timer beeping]

(Katherine) While most jewelers begin piercing out the largest

elements of their designs

Naomi is working on the smallest

a delicate flower designed

to rotate in the center

of a silver coral formation.

How you feeling today?

I had a bit of nervous with soldering yesterday

so I don't want to like, yeah, have it too much.

So, I'm making the flower at the moment.

This is the only part of detail

so it needs to be quite accurate.

Well, Naomi, I really believe that technically

you can do this.

I think if you push your nerves aside

'I think you can accomplish today's challenge.'

Thank you, that means a lot.

[instrumental music]

[metal scraping]

Solange, yesterday was the best seller challenge

and today is the bespoke.

What's the difference between a best seller

and bespoke piece of jewelry?

Well, the best seller is something

that's part of your arsenal.

And it's something that you can sell

and sell and sell and sell.

But a bespoke piece of jewelry

is often a very loaded emotionally.

It's the fusion of the jeweler style

and what the client has asked for.

So, this is a pendant, different from a necklace?

Yes, and necklace is decorated

and detailed all the way around the neck.

But the pendant hangs down from a chain.

So, think of it as a small piece of sculpture

that needs to be beautiful from every single angle.

And what can go wrong in this bespoke challenge?

There's lots of things to-to include in the bespoke

and it's not just about you as a jeweler.

You know, they have to incorporate all aspects

of the client's personality

the reasons behind why they're receiving it

the sentiment, the emotion

who's giving it to them.

So, I think we need to see a fusion

of the jeweler and the client

that-that would be the best kind of

bespoke we could hope for.

I'm aware that Andy likes quite

natural looking things

and that's not my style

but hopefully

the concept will draw her in.

(Katherine) Nicola is 25

and lives in Hereford.

And splits her time between her family

making jewelry and working part time

as a special needs teaching assistant.

(Nicola) My schedule is pretty mad.

It's a mix of work and mumming.

I want to take part because I just love learning.

And also it would be a real affirmation

that I can do this.

(Katherine) Nicola's creating a pendant

with a geometric shard structure

in the center of her design

to symbolize Andy's time as a foster parent.

(Nicola) So, the theory behind my work

um, is based on a Japanese philosophy called Kintsugi

where maybe ceramics or something that might

have broken, and rather than throw it away

they repair it with lacquer

that's imbued with gold or silver.

Based on the philosophy

that's something that's been broken

is actually more precious

and it's part of that story.

And so I wanted to create

a representation of how Andy

has pieced together these lives

and it is set within a circle

that is to represent her.

(Katherine) Hugo's also drawing symbolic

inspiration from Andy's life

as a foster parent

creating her in the image of a lunar goddess.

(Hugo) So, the design I'm working to today

is this image here.

What it is, is a woman

the spiral in the center

which basically represents a journey through life.

(Katherine) He's also tapping into her love

of magic and fantasy.

(Hugo) The client is a lover of fairies.

So, it made sense to incorporate

something to do with fairies

and what better than a fairy wings.

(Katherine) Dan and Sonny are also using

wings as a major part of their design.

- Sonny. - Hello.

- 'It's nice.' - Pretty.

- They're very pretty. - Very pretty.

Again, you seem very relaxed.

- Your light was on. - Yes.

(Katherine) 'Were you surprised to see it on.'

I was sort of pleased to see it on.

To be honest, you were a little bit on the edge.

I think it was a bit more simple

than you could have done, actually.

So, you could probably push yourself more--

(Sonny) 'I'm trying.'

(Katherine) Sonny's creating a hinge

down the middle of his wings

to give them movement.

And to add three dimensional form.

The idea is the wings will move.

Um, I think it's kind of perfect

for a metaphorical sort of standpoint of

it's kind of like she's letting these kids fly kind of thing.

- So, the wings can flap? - 'Exactly.'

- It can fly. - That's the plan anyway.

- 'Yes.' - 'Yeah.'

Oh, here we go again.

(Katherine) Dan's designed his wings

to surround a copper lined

mystical cave held in place

by jump rings.

A jump ring is a circle of silver wire

that you use to join different bits together.

So, the-the piece will have a bit of movement

to have a little bit of fluidity

a little bit of movement or just making it sit nicer.

- Good morning, Dan. - Good morning.

- How are ya? - Alright. Yeah, not bad.

You must be on a high after yesterday.

Um, yeah, I feel pretty good about that. Yeah, it was good.

All good comments, your light is on.

Will you be jeweler of the week?

I don't know about that.

That's a biggie, isn't it? Cross my fingers and see.

(Katherine) 'Have you ever made anything like this before?'

Never, I tend to do fairly simple

um, fluid kind of forms

so yeah, it's-it's something different for me.

'So, the-the dome will be hanging'

'between the two wings.'

- Okay. - Yeah.

But we're gonna have some stars on the back.

And that's to symbolize all the, the children

that she's fostered.

I couldn't do a hundred

but I'm going with nine.

- Interesting. - That's what I'm going for.

[metal scraping]

[timer beeping]

(Katherine) Some of the other jewelers are also adding

domed shapes to their pendants

to give them the three dimensional volume

the judges are looking for.

[thudding]

So, what I'm starting to do now

is to get that dome shape to my outer casing.

So, we've got a domain punch and the domain block.

So, I'm using a soft mallet

so it doesn't mark the metals.

(Katherine) Lee has domed two sheets of silver

which will be joined together

to display a picturesque scene

of a family home in between.

Have we come at a bad time?

No, I'm making the product now.

So, I was just about to start soldering

just getting that shape together.

So, in size that pierced, is it engraved?

Yeah, I've got to cut it open text to it, yeah.

(Lee) 'So, t-the idea is from-from the darkness'

'with nurture something can blossom and grow.'

Um, which is what I think Andy has done with the children

that she's looked after.

So, it's my representation of that.

(Katherine) Forty-nine-year-old Lee lives near Pontypool in South Wales.

For the last 15 years

he's worked in a small jewelry shop

where a lot of his time is spent repairing

old pieces of jewelry.

(Lee) I'm one of four boys, so, um

money was tight at home, I won't lie to you.

Uh, mum and dad had a second-hand shop.

So, we was always involved with rubbing down bits

of furniture and doing them up.

So, I suppose the crafty side come from that.

- This is beautiful, Lee. - Yeah, hopefully--

I hope it turns out, I know you're entering

a crucial soldering..

Yeah, just take my time--

- We say solder-- - Soldering.

We don't say solder

and we don't say aluminum--

They gotta stick it together.

[instrumental music]

One hour left, everybody.

You have one hour.

I'm just on track, just..

'I need to finish texturing'

these three in the next half hour.

And if I do that, then we're gonna be okay.

(Tamara) I've just soldered my two domed sections together.

I'm just going to cut the bottom

path off so it looks more like a rainbow.

And then I've just got to make the yellows sphere

to go on the bottom just..

(Sonny) Probably did play a bit safe

on the bangle challenge

but I'll feel this piece is a lot

more special, a little bit more daring.

I think the movement aspect is going to play a big part

it's a bit of a risk

um, because if it doesn't go well

it's glaringly obvious

but got to take a risk for it.

[fire blazing]

(Katherine) To bring all their design elements together

the jewelers again face the precarious art of soldiering.

(Hugo) This is the part where, you know, things

could get a bit risky because I've got so many solder lines

if I'm not careful enough

I could end up with a melted piece, so

it's a risky, risky point.

Try and solder on the jump ring.

Oh, my hand, it's so shaky.

Pressure is too much.

Taking it slow, but..

It's joined.

I just finally managed to

solder the jump ring on the end.

Oh.

Oh, no.

I wanted to add some moveable parts to it

to give it another sort of dimension

but I won't have time to actually make the wings move.

Lemon.

(Shaun) 'I think Sonny's behind a little bit.'

How long do we have?

You've got 15 minutes.

This is your 15 minute call.

(Dan) It's quite stressful. It's..

It's only week one.

I think I can at least finish it

whether it'll be to the standard I want it to be

I don't know, but at least it should

all be together in that time.

[instrumental music]

(Naomi) It's not what I expected.

I think I just need to finish.

I didn't melt it, so that was good.

[unintelligible]

[machine whirring]

- How many minutes? - One minute remaining.

This is your one minute call.

[sighing]

[instrumental music]

Have your pendants on the plinth in 30 seconds, please.

Oh, no.

[indistinct chatter]

(Dan) 'Time beat me.'

- Sonny, what's going on? - I don't know.

You got seconds to get your pendant on the plinth.

- Where am I going? - Quickly, inside..

Oh, my gosh!

(Katherine) 'That's time. Time's up.'

[instrumental music]

[unintelligible]

(Sonny) I'm slaughtered.

Oh, my God, the stress, you have no idea.

Oh, my God.

[laughing]

[instrumental music]

(Katherine) The jewelers have each created a bespoke pendant

from small pieces of silver and metal off cuts.

But which jewelers have created the most effective

three-dimensional pendant

and blended Ben's brief with their own unique style?

(Solange) Hugo, he's definitely done what he set out to do.

And it's three-dimensional.

It's beautiful, and even the back is lovely.

'Yeah, as I was always taught, a piece of jewelry should look'

just as good from the back as it does from the front.

(Katherine) 'That's why I do squats.'

'Hugo responded really well to having his light turned off.'

'I think he really just focused.'

(Shaun) 'Yeah, he's definitely proved that with this piece.'

(Solange) 'I like this domed sphere and the way he's got'

'the homestead in the background'

but I preferred it in the midway stage.

I'm not sure it's comprehensible from a distance.

(Shaun) 'I think the concept is really beautiful.'

'She thought out of the box'

'she's really reflects to the brief.'

(Solange) 'It's a very strong graphic'

'so I think it will sit well the neck.'

(Shaun) 'The rays of hope is very connected to the brief.'

Let's have a closer look at this.

That sound is so nice.

Spiritual people, they love a chime.

They love a chime.

I used to have chimes in my back garden

drove my neighbors nuts.

The piercing out is organic

but the concept's good.

Execution is better than yesterday.

I'm very pleased to see

that Tamara has redeemed herself here.

Have I redeemed myself enough?

(Solange) 'She stuck to her design DNA.'

'She loves all things nature.'

So, that's really perfect for her.

It's lacking a little bit of three dimension.

'But overall, it's a beautiful piece of jewelry.'

'I think the design in this is a lovely balance'

'of the spirituality of Andy'

and then the, the romanticism of fairies and that mystical magic.

'And I think one thing we should mention is those wings have'

'pierced out beautifully.'

Look, you can wear it from behind as well.

It's beautiful, he's got stars engraved

with a copper coming through.

He's hit all the criteria, I think here.

Smashed it.

[indistinct]

- This is your piece next? - Yeah.

[instrumental music]

(Solange) 'It is more modest than the others'

but, um..

It's finished nicely on the back.

She's got a sweet flower that spins around here.

(Shaun) 'That's a really nice touch actually.'

But overall, it is a quite a commercial piece of jewelry

not a bespoke piece of jewelry.

'And, um, I think just really would like to see her identity'

'as a jeweler coming through and more.'

But it's definitely an improvement on-on yesterday.

[unintelligible]

- Still not very good. - It's better though.

Yeah.

[unintelligible]

[instrumental music]

(Solange) 'I think it looks more'

'Sonny than it does look Andy'

'because Andy's more hippy'

'and this just looks a bit more rock.'

(Shaun) 'The three dimensional element is a little bit lost for me.'

I was trying to make a hinge. I was doing it for like an hour.

And it, it wouldn't work.

It wouldn't sit right.

(Shaun) 'It's tactile, but when you're creating a bespoke piece'

'it's important to have your stamp on something'

but it has to be a fine balance.

You have to get that client's emotions and dreams

'and personality into the piece.'

(Katherine) 'Okay, well, judges, you've got'

some important decisions to make today.

We need jeweler of the week

and unfortunately, you also

'need to send someone home.'

- 'Yes, that's the hard bit.' - 'Yeah.'

(Katherine) The judges have their opinions.

- Hi, Ben. - Hi, Katherine.

- Welcome back. - Thank you.

(Katherine) But it's down to Ben to choose a pendant

that will best suit his mum, Andy.

Dan has pierced stars here

and the back to represent

the children that your mother has looked after

they're obviously not 150 of them.

- It is a metaphor. - Yeah.

That's nice t-that some things are on show

some things after the person wearing it, it's beautiful.

I reckon he'll choose yours.

- I hope so. - That would be bloody nice.

- This is by Hugo. - Yeah, well, again..

T-the three dimensional action is really fine detail.

It's certainly a one off.

- Yes. - Just like mum.

He's got great spirit. Okay.

Why don't I leave you alone with the art.

Okay.

[instrumental music]

(Naomi) I feel slightly emotional right now.

I didn't totally crumble with the pressure.

I definitely think I did better than the bangles challenge.

I'm proud of myself for completing it.

I'm absolutely exhausted physically and mentally.

I'm not happy with the finished product

but it was on the plinth

and I presented something.

(Tamara) I'm relieved it's over.

I would love to get through to next week.

There's so many more things that I feel excited

about doing and so many more techniques

I want to show people

that would mean the world to me.

(Katherine) The judges will take the client's choice of pendant

into account before making their final decision

of jeweler of the week

and choose the person going home.

'Okay, judges, the jewelers have had their first chances'

'to impress you in this competition.'

'So, what do you think?'

(Shaun) 'For me, Naomi's three bangles'

didn't really work with each other.

Uh, Kim's execution on one or two of the bangles

actually wasn't brilliant.

So, Kim and Naomi could be vulnerable to go home.

(Solange) 'I think Sonny actually'

he didn't, um, finalize

his butterfly pendant as he had hoped to.

(Shaun) Yeah, I would agree with that, actually.

I think that let him down.

Well, you've certainly both got a lot to think about.

You must choose your jeweler of the week

but unfortunately, one of the jewelers

is also leaving us tonight.

I know, it's going to be quite tricky.

Well, you do the choosing, I'll do the boozing.

[laughing]

Responsibly.

[suspenseful music]

Jewelers, congratulations on completing

your first challenges.

'You've done yourselves so proud.'

I know you're all excited to find out

whose pendant Ben has chosen

'and ultimately which of you'

will have your pendant showcase on Andy's neck

while she collects her MBE. Ben?

The piece I've selected I think

really reflects mum's personality.

I think it encapsulates her journey

as a foster carer

um, and care she's given to so many children

'over the last 35 years.'

The person whose necklace I have chosen..

[instrumental music]

...is Dan.

[applause]

[cheering]

- Well done. - Smashed it.

The judges have been so impressed with all your creative

and technical abilities, in these two first challenges

one jeweler shone a little bit brighter this week.

The judges have chosen..

'...Dan as their jeweler of the week.'

[applause]

[cheering]

- Wow. Thank you. - So cool.

(Katherine) 'Excitingly, we have'

received back results

of my child's paternity test.

And it's Dan.

It's-it's Dan again.

'It's Dan.'

What a week for Dan.

[laughing]

- 'Congratulations, Dan.' - Thank you.

(Katherine) 'Unfortunately, this is the bit that'

'we're really not looking forward to.'

We do have to say goodbye

to one jeweler this week.

And I can reveal that the jeweler leaving

the "All That Glitters" workshop this week is..

[instrumental music]

...is Naomi.

'I'm so sorry, Naomi, you did great.'

'Your standard was so high.'

[applause]

Well done.

[clamoring]

Yeah, you should be very proud of yourself.

[indistinct chatter]

(Naomi) I'm glad that I pushed myself doing my best.

I think that it's been very challenging for me.

I feel like I'm braver than I think

and I can achieve, do more than I think can.

[indistinct chatter]

You've got a great technical skill, you really have.

(Naomi) 'I think I'm my own worst enemy. I get so nervous.'

- 'I'm like shaking and..' - I'm-I'm excite..

I used to be the same when I was younger.

(Solange) I'm very sad to see Naomi go.

I mean, she's a talented jeweler

who needs a bit more practice

but I also think she needs to find her own style.

She has the technical ability, and she'll flourish.

- Yeah, I think so. - She will.

- Thank you. - Thank you, Dan.

Awesome. Well done.

You know, just blown away.

Having never met mum

and being able to get something that beautiful.

Yeah, and it's on Tuesday.

She's picking up her MBE on Tuesday.

Wow.

I'm a bit overwhelmed, I..

I'm so pleased with the results at the double.

Yeah, more than I ever expected.

But I cannot be too confident going into the next round.

These are some great jewelers

I need to make sure I keep

keep my game really high

and-and don't rest on your laurels.

[instrumental music]

[theme music]