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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,000 --> 00:00:07,000 Downloaded from YTS.MX 2 00:00:08,000 --> 00:00:13,000 Official YIFY movies site: YTS.MX 3 00:00:14,598 --> 00:00:17,348 (waves crashing) 4 00:00:18,923 --> 00:00:21,756 (seagulls cawing) 5 00:00:29,081 --> 00:00:31,831 (birds chirping) 6 00:00:39,382 --> 00:00:41,516 (bubbles popping) 7 00:00:41,516 --> 00:00:44,099 (gentle music) 8 00:00:48,377 --> 00:00:51,060 - [Mick] I always thought that life was a matter of choice 9 00:00:51,060 --> 00:00:54,930 and you made decisions based on acquiring knowledge, 10 00:00:54,930 --> 00:00:57,320 and making that decision, and then rolling the dice, 11 00:00:57,320 --> 00:01:00,493 and going with it, giving it your best shot. 12 00:01:06,007 --> 00:01:08,910 I never thought that there was an overall plan. 13 00:01:08,910 --> 00:01:13,120 I thought life was just a series of accidents, 14 00:01:13,120 --> 00:01:14,787 some good, some bad. 15 00:01:19,418 --> 00:01:23,085 (mellow instrumental music) 16 00:01:57,210 --> 00:01:58,870 My first experience with the death 17 00:01:58,870 --> 00:02:01,493 of a loved one was my Dad. 18 00:02:02,490 --> 00:02:04,550 Since then, I've buried around 19 00:02:04,550 --> 00:02:07,283 20 of my family and close mates. 20 00:02:08,520 --> 00:02:11,870 But life goes on and on each occasion 21 00:02:11,870 --> 00:02:14,403 I quickly came to terms with it. 22 00:02:16,210 --> 00:02:19,143 After all, you're meant to bury your elders. 23 00:02:20,080 --> 00:02:22,450 That's the way it is. 24 00:02:22,450 --> 00:02:23,623 Passing on the baton. 25 00:02:25,510 --> 00:02:28,120 But it doesn't always run to script. 26 00:02:28,120 --> 00:02:29,870 Accidents happen. 27 00:02:29,870 --> 00:02:31,533 Fate intervenes. 28 00:02:32,890 --> 00:02:37,033 But it always happens to someone else. 29 00:02:38,180 --> 00:02:40,397 Always some other poor bugger. 30 00:03:19,580 --> 00:03:23,330 However, fate had decided it was now my turn. 31 00:03:48,767 --> 00:03:51,600 (bubbles popping) 32 00:04:08,928 --> 00:04:11,220 (gentle music) 33 00:04:11,220 --> 00:04:14,003 There comes a moment in any journey, 34 00:04:15,600 --> 00:04:19,273 the moment it dawns on you that it's coming to an end. 35 00:04:21,800 --> 00:04:23,300 Growing old's a bit like that. 36 00:04:26,060 --> 00:04:27,970 How did you end up here? 37 00:04:27,970 --> 00:04:29,540 What if you'd gone there? 38 00:04:29,540 --> 00:04:30,540 Why did that happen? 39 00:04:31,840 --> 00:04:35,130 Did you have any say in it or was it all in the hands 40 00:04:35,130 --> 00:04:40,130 of a higher power like God, Allah, even fate? 41 00:04:42,240 --> 00:04:44,030 On my journey, the biggest influence 42 00:04:44,030 --> 00:04:47,600 wasn't divine intervention or happenstance, 43 00:04:47,600 --> 00:04:50,950 but the direct result of a choice I made. 44 00:04:50,950 --> 00:04:54,570 Not only did that decision change the course of my life, 45 00:04:54,570 --> 00:04:57,543 it taught me the core values I hold to this very day. 46 00:04:58,639 --> 00:05:02,480 I learned humility, to show respect, 47 00:05:02,480 --> 00:05:04,213 the joy of living in the moment. 48 00:05:05,178 --> 00:05:09,310 That having mates is a gift of pure gold. 49 00:05:09,310 --> 00:05:11,650 But most of it all, it taught me that 50 00:05:11,650 --> 00:05:14,210 it wasn't always sunny and offshore, 51 00:05:14,210 --> 00:05:16,650 that sooner or later in your life, 52 00:05:16,650 --> 00:05:18,743 probably when you least expect it, 53 00:05:19,600 --> 00:05:22,423 you're gonna be mowed down by rogue waves. 54 00:05:42,496 --> 00:05:43,950 (soft instrumental music) 55 00:05:43,950 --> 00:05:48,100 My Dad was a Royal Marine and he met my Mum here 56 00:05:48,100 --> 00:05:50,600 in Hobart towards the end of the Second World War. 57 00:05:51,940 --> 00:05:56,170 Dad was 24, he came from out near the Welsh border 58 00:05:56,170 --> 00:05:59,673 and had a bloodline to Romany Gypsies. 59 00:06:02,890 --> 00:06:05,770 Mum was a 20-year old local girl. 60 00:06:05,770 --> 00:06:08,403 She was a fourth-generation Tasmanian. 61 00:06:10,640 --> 00:06:14,400 Mum and Dad's union resulted in me being born 62 00:06:14,400 --> 00:06:16,093 in early 1947. 63 00:06:24,614 --> 00:06:27,650 We had very little money and the upbringing 64 00:06:27,650 --> 00:06:30,260 was more about satisfying your needs 65 00:06:30,260 --> 00:06:32,693 rather than trying to pursue your wants. 66 00:06:38,580 --> 00:06:41,210 Most of our daytime activity was spent 67 00:06:41,210 --> 00:06:43,900 playing in the rivulet or Knocklofty Terrace, 68 00:06:43,900 --> 00:06:46,550 or a big adventure was to catch the big trolley bus 69 00:06:46,550 --> 00:06:49,300 down to Nutgrove Beach where we spent the day swimming. 70 00:06:50,169 --> 00:06:53,740 You always had the sense that it wasn't just about you, 71 00:06:53,740 --> 00:06:55,570 that you were part of a bigger thing 72 00:06:55,570 --> 00:06:59,307 and that bigger thing was the place in which you lived. 73 00:07:03,030 --> 00:07:06,593 Dad's life was adventurous to the extreme. 74 00:07:08,190 --> 00:07:10,450 He signed on on the Royal Marines when he was 16, 75 00:07:10,450 --> 00:07:13,490 and not long after the war broke out 76 00:07:13,490 --> 00:07:16,943 and he was sunk three times before he was 21. 77 00:07:18,390 --> 00:07:23,390 In 1945, he was in a flotilla waiting for the land invasion 78 00:07:24,310 --> 00:07:29,250 of Japan and ended up in a place called Hiroshima. 79 00:07:29,250 --> 00:07:31,200 Four days later he was moved out 80 00:07:31,200 --> 00:07:34,363 and moved to a place called Nagasaki. 81 00:07:35,660 --> 00:07:37,810 And it's something he never recovered from. 82 00:07:39,581 --> 00:07:42,664 (gentle piano music) 83 00:07:45,130 --> 00:07:49,670 I had heroes in my life like Tarzan and Superman, 84 00:07:49,670 --> 00:07:52,120 and, as a teenager, Mikki Dora. 85 00:07:52,120 --> 00:07:54,313 But Dad was my biggest hero. 86 00:07:56,780 --> 00:07:59,770 But I'd have to say that I never wanted 87 00:07:59,770 --> 00:08:01,563 to be like any of my heroes. 88 00:08:02,940 --> 00:08:05,000 It was something Dad instilled in me 89 00:08:05,000 --> 00:08:06,830 that you don't wanna be like everybody else. 90 00:08:06,830 --> 00:08:09,333 You've got a special gift and you are you. 91 00:08:10,240 --> 00:08:14,000 It's important in life that you, as much as possible, 92 00:08:14,000 --> 00:08:15,923 become the master of your own destiny. 93 00:08:17,700 --> 00:08:19,570 You've got to cherish the things 94 00:08:19,570 --> 00:08:23,010 that you hold dear to you, hold them in the moment 95 00:08:23,010 --> 00:08:26,193 because you never know what fate has in store for you. 96 00:08:28,650 --> 00:08:30,960 His overriding message was that 97 00:08:30,960 --> 00:08:33,850 it's not so important what happens to you. 98 00:08:33,850 --> 00:08:35,280 The most important thing in your life 99 00:08:35,280 --> 00:08:37,123 is how you deal with it. 100 00:08:39,362 --> 00:08:41,600 (gentle instrumental music) 101 00:08:41,600 --> 00:08:44,160 I didn't have a very good childhood. 102 00:08:44,160 --> 00:08:46,730 I received a lot of joy and love and happy times 103 00:08:46,730 --> 00:08:50,333 but there was an overall shroud of darkness in our house. 104 00:08:52,290 --> 00:08:54,500 My parent's relationship fell apart 105 00:08:54,500 --> 00:08:57,443 and Dad left home when I was 12. 106 00:09:01,510 --> 00:09:03,630 My schooldays were a reflection 107 00:09:03,630 --> 00:09:05,940 of what was happening at home, really. 108 00:09:05,940 --> 00:09:08,438 And then when you throw in a bit of puberty, 109 00:09:08,438 --> 00:09:10,596 and I was the only boy in a class 110 00:09:10,596 --> 00:09:13,950 with 49 girls for three years. 111 00:09:13,950 --> 00:09:17,153 Safe to say that I wasn't really focused on the blackboard. 112 00:09:19,389 --> 00:09:24,320 So left school at 15 and my Mom, through family connections, 113 00:09:24,320 --> 00:09:27,870 acquired me a brilliant career in the Accounts Department 114 00:09:27,870 --> 00:09:29,470 of the Hydro Electric Commission. 115 00:09:30,490 --> 00:09:32,983 It was an absolutely mindless job. 116 00:09:37,451 --> 00:09:40,810 I did that for a while and then a mate of mine, 117 00:09:40,810 --> 00:09:42,380 he'd gone to work for a finance company 118 00:09:42,380 --> 00:09:43,967 and he rang me one day and said, 119 00:09:43,967 --> 00:09:46,950 "Interested in changing job?" and I said, "You bet." 120 00:09:46,950 --> 00:09:49,913 So I end up working as a repo man. 121 00:09:52,303 --> 00:09:55,470 I got a car and 80 bucks a week it paid. 122 00:09:55,470 --> 00:09:57,580 And I got shotguns pushed into my face. 123 00:09:57,580 --> 00:10:00,862 I've got abused, punches thrown at me. 124 00:10:00,862 --> 00:10:04,270 (tires rumbling) 125 00:10:04,270 --> 00:10:07,028 It certainly taught me a lot about the cost 126 00:10:07,028 --> 00:10:11,470 of borrowing money and what can happen to your life 127 00:10:11,470 --> 00:10:15,790 if fate intervenes and something unexpected happens. 128 00:10:15,790 --> 00:10:17,673 It can go pear shaped pretty quick. 129 00:10:19,115 --> 00:10:22,960 (mellow electric guitar music) 130 00:10:22,960 --> 00:10:26,033 After Dad moved out of the family home, 131 00:10:27,020 --> 00:10:31,453 my Mum filed for divorce and subsequently met another man. 132 00:10:33,630 --> 00:10:35,800 When Dad received the news that Mum was 133 00:10:35,800 --> 00:10:39,273 to remarry, he couldn't deal with it. 134 00:10:42,120 --> 00:10:44,860 As a result of his war experiences, 135 00:10:44,860 --> 00:10:49,860 he suffered from mental health problems his entire life. 136 00:10:53,243 --> 00:10:56,180 The news of Mum remarrying was too much to bear 137 00:10:56,180 --> 00:11:00,993 so he killed himself when I was in my mid-teens. 138 00:11:03,427 --> 00:11:05,320 (cheery music) 139 00:11:05,320 --> 00:11:07,401 I was a competitive swimmer up till then. 140 00:11:07,401 --> 00:11:10,170 I actually did quite well. 141 00:11:10,170 --> 00:11:15,170 I was a backstroker, and in 1963 I ended up 142 00:11:15,720 --> 00:11:19,973 in the trials for the Tokyo Olympics. 143 00:11:22,160 --> 00:11:26,963 Came a very admirable last in my event. (chuckles) 144 00:11:28,998 --> 00:11:30,850 I'd just come back from the Olympic trials 145 00:11:30,850 --> 00:11:33,400 and a friend asked if I wanted to go 146 00:11:33,400 --> 00:11:35,563 and see a movie about surfing. 147 00:11:37,640 --> 00:11:42,430 Another one of those incredibly defining moments 148 00:11:42,430 --> 00:11:44,760 in your life, which at the time was just 149 00:11:45,922 --> 00:11:47,323 a spontaneous reaction. 150 00:11:49,866 --> 00:11:51,457 (guests chattering) 151 00:11:51,457 --> 00:11:54,525 Need a ticket for the surf movie please. 152 00:11:54,525 --> 00:11:55,730 Thank you. 153 00:11:55,730 --> 00:11:59,530 There I went in and sat down in the State Picture Theater 154 00:11:59,530 --> 00:12:04,530 as an aspiring Olympian and I stood up a surfer. 155 00:12:04,672 --> 00:12:07,970 (electric guitar music) 156 00:12:07,970 --> 00:12:11,503 Up on the silver screen, there was freedom, fun. 157 00:12:12,610 --> 00:12:14,110 No one telling you what to do. 158 00:12:15,039 --> 00:12:18,483 I saw people just having loads and loads of fun. 159 00:12:27,012 --> 00:12:30,777 When I told my Mum that I wasn't swimming anymore 160 00:12:30,777 --> 00:12:33,753 and I was gonna be a surfer, she was horrified. 161 00:12:35,070 --> 00:12:37,663 I might as well have told her I was gonna be a Hell's Angel. 162 00:12:39,290 --> 00:12:40,640 Never quite saw what I saw. 163 00:12:42,490 --> 00:12:45,640 There was a way I could express myself. 164 00:12:45,640 --> 00:12:46,490 I could stay fit. 165 00:12:47,423 --> 00:12:49,803 I was discovering the place in which I lived. 166 00:12:51,180 --> 00:12:54,170 I was with friends who were inspirational. 167 00:12:54,170 --> 00:12:57,073 Showed no fear, did crazy stuff. 168 00:12:58,160 --> 00:13:00,670 They weren't in the mold of a normal teenager 169 00:13:00,670 --> 00:13:02,723 in the 1960s, that's for sure. 170 00:13:04,170 --> 00:13:06,270 Some of those relationships went on to become 171 00:13:06,270 --> 00:13:09,673 both the most meaningful and enduring of my life. 172 00:13:10,840 --> 00:13:13,003 Mates I lived and laughed with. 173 00:13:13,949 --> 00:13:16,683 Mates I buried and still grieve over. 174 00:13:20,315 --> 00:13:23,148 (thrilling music) 175 00:13:25,300 --> 00:13:29,233 Through my surfing life and exploration of the island, 176 00:13:29,233 --> 00:13:32,520 I developed a very, very strong attachment 177 00:13:32,520 --> 00:13:33,990 to my island home. 178 00:13:33,990 --> 00:13:36,363 I'm quite patriotic about where I live. 179 00:13:39,510 --> 00:13:42,773 It played a major part in who I am today, 180 00:13:43,750 --> 00:13:47,370 that appreciation and respect for where you live. 181 00:13:47,370 --> 00:13:51,300 That understanding that life is not just about you, 182 00:13:51,300 --> 00:13:55,860 that you are intrinsically connected to your surroundings, 183 00:13:55,860 --> 00:13:59,161 and how you interact with those surroundings 184 00:13:59,161 --> 00:14:01,619 plays a large part in who you are 185 00:14:01,619 --> 00:14:04,023 and whether you're content or not. 186 00:14:05,400 --> 00:14:07,663 So without realizing it, 187 00:14:09,306 --> 00:14:14,306 I suddenly had found the best teacher I ever had in my life. 188 00:14:18,197 --> 00:14:20,947 (birds chirping) 189 00:14:22,329 --> 00:14:25,079 (waves crashing) 190 00:14:30,360 --> 00:14:32,740 Surfing was different, totally different 191 00:14:32,740 --> 00:14:34,853 than anything else I'd been involved with. 192 00:14:36,828 --> 00:14:39,328 I mean, it's called a sport, but it's not a sport. 193 00:14:40,550 --> 00:14:42,687 It's more ethereal than that. 194 00:14:52,953 --> 00:14:55,030 Describing surfing to somebody is like 195 00:14:55,030 --> 00:14:57,603 trying to describe sex to a virgin. 196 00:14:58,520 --> 00:15:01,233 They've got nothing to compare it to. 197 00:15:06,253 --> 00:15:09,220 (waves crashing) 198 00:15:09,220 --> 00:15:13,210 A lot of us are probably more naturally gifted at it 199 00:15:13,210 --> 00:15:16,181 than others, and fortunately I was one of those. 200 00:15:16,181 --> 00:15:20,193 I found surfing and the balance aspect very, very easy. 201 00:15:22,140 --> 00:15:24,590 When I was on the surfboard, I was in tune. 202 00:15:24,590 --> 00:15:25,550 I was in rhythm. 203 00:15:25,550 --> 00:15:28,900 I was of the wave, I was not riding the wave. 204 00:15:28,900 --> 00:15:29,917 I was of it. 205 00:15:33,811 --> 00:15:34,940 (thrilling music) 206 00:15:34,940 --> 00:15:38,140 And the best surfers, the best dancers, 207 00:15:38,140 --> 00:15:42,030 whether they're doing tangos or waltzes, doesn't matter, 208 00:15:42,030 --> 00:15:43,030 they just look good. 209 00:15:43,909 --> 00:15:47,992 Because, they're connected, connected to that wave. 210 00:17:01,960 --> 00:17:05,410 The beauty is that no two waves are ever the same. 211 00:17:05,410 --> 00:17:09,173 Each wave is an individual just like us. 212 00:17:10,780 --> 00:17:12,270 It's only when they feel the friction 213 00:17:12,270 --> 00:17:16,093 of the bottom that they stand up and eventually break. 214 00:17:19,793 --> 00:17:23,226 The art of surfing is that very last gasp 215 00:17:23,226 --> 00:17:27,710 of that dying wave, that's when a surfer 216 00:17:27,710 --> 00:17:30,023 picks her up and starts dancing. 217 00:17:30,980 --> 00:17:32,650 It's a death dance for the wave. 218 00:17:33,880 --> 00:17:35,877 That's a really beautiful thing. 219 00:17:37,240 --> 00:17:40,520 And when you look at it in that sort of term, 220 00:17:40,520 --> 00:17:41,493 it's very spiritual. 221 00:17:42,960 --> 00:17:45,363 Most surfers who become addicted, 222 00:17:46,820 --> 00:17:48,740 you find them very spiritual people. 223 00:17:48,740 --> 00:17:49,573 They... 224 00:17:50,933 --> 00:17:52,533 There's another element to them. 225 00:17:53,640 --> 00:17:55,693 An understanding, a knowing. 226 00:17:58,630 --> 00:18:02,660 And I think that comes from those moments 227 00:18:02,660 --> 00:18:06,307 when you're actually riding inside of the barrel of a wave. 228 00:18:07,430 --> 00:18:10,223 The rush that you get out of that is enormous. 229 00:18:11,360 --> 00:18:12,210 Hard to describe. 230 00:18:14,264 --> 00:18:15,990 And when it's over, it's surreal. 231 00:18:18,810 --> 00:18:23,353 You begin to wonder if it even happened. 232 00:18:24,277 --> 00:18:27,027 (birds chirping) 233 00:18:35,431 --> 00:18:38,764 (waves crashing softly) 234 00:18:39,888 --> 00:18:43,710 One of the beauties of surfing in Tasmania 235 00:18:43,710 --> 00:18:46,880 is there are not many people, in more ways than one. 236 00:18:46,880 --> 00:18:48,797 It's probably one of the salvations of the island. 237 00:18:52,650 --> 00:18:53,560 Not many people live here. 238 00:18:53,560 --> 00:18:56,930 Not many people up to this point in time want to live here. 239 00:18:56,930 --> 00:18:58,550 Most people seem to think living in Tasmania 240 00:18:58,550 --> 00:19:01,970 is like living in a rusty old fridge from the 1950s and 241 00:19:03,130 --> 00:19:06,680 not many of us were gonna enlighten anybody from outside. 242 00:19:06,680 --> 00:19:08,380 We didn't want anyone living here. 243 00:19:12,350 --> 00:19:15,610 That's one of the things about surfing, it's selfish. 244 00:19:15,610 --> 00:19:16,443 It's hedonistic. 245 00:19:16,443 --> 00:19:18,393 It's all about getting the rush. 246 00:19:19,230 --> 00:19:21,340 It's because, it's a finite resource. 247 00:19:21,340 --> 00:19:22,640 There's only so many waves, 248 00:19:22,640 --> 00:19:24,180 and the more and more surfers there are 249 00:19:24,180 --> 00:19:26,330 the harder and harder it is to catch waves. 250 00:19:28,970 --> 00:19:31,460 Winter was the worst time, so damned cold. 251 00:19:31,460 --> 00:19:32,990 Eight degrees, freezing. 252 00:19:32,990 --> 00:19:35,130 Not a nice place to be in the winter, 253 00:19:35,130 --> 00:19:36,380 particularly as a surfer. 254 00:19:37,360 --> 00:19:42,360 And I think it was in 1974 that I first escaped. 255 00:19:44,000 --> 00:19:46,240 I went to Hawaii and then went across 256 00:19:46,240 --> 00:19:48,393 to California and Mexico. 257 00:19:49,460 --> 00:19:51,743 And I was hooked, that was it. 258 00:19:52,990 --> 00:19:54,840 I was a traveler from that moment on. 259 00:20:00,232 --> 00:20:04,134 There was a place in Indonesia that Aussie surfers 260 00:20:04,134 --> 00:20:06,373 had discovered the year before. 261 00:20:06,373 --> 00:20:08,903 A rather unknown place, it was called Bali. 262 00:20:08,903 --> 00:20:09,790 (upbeat rock music) 263 00:20:09,790 --> 00:20:13,020 So in 1975 I went to Bali and 264 00:20:14,650 --> 00:20:18,940 in those days Kuta and Legian were just tiny little isolated 265 00:20:21,050 --> 00:20:24,173 villages and in between was nothing but rice paddies. 266 00:20:30,030 --> 00:20:32,963 Rented a room off the locals, lived with a local family. 267 00:20:34,070 --> 00:20:35,610 The best surf was out on what they 268 00:20:35,610 --> 00:20:37,190 called the Bukit Peninsula. 269 00:20:37,190 --> 00:20:39,960 It's a rather holy place called Uluwatu. 270 00:20:44,370 --> 00:20:47,583 And from the Uluwatu Temple you had to trek your way 271 00:20:47,583 --> 00:20:50,834 down over these open paddocks along cliff tops 272 00:20:50,834 --> 00:20:53,730 and eventually, after about half an hour, 273 00:20:53,730 --> 00:20:57,730 you came to this cave and there was a bamboo ladder 274 00:20:57,730 --> 00:20:59,080 that you had to climb down. 275 00:21:01,207 --> 00:21:03,234 There might have been 20 surfers there 276 00:21:03,234 --> 00:21:05,140 from all around the world. 277 00:21:05,140 --> 00:21:07,640 People just starting to get into the know of Bali. 278 00:21:09,680 --> 00:21:11,060 It was a magic place. 279 00:21:11,060 --> 00:21:16,060 The culture, the people, the surf, it was just fantastic. 280 00:21:17,680 --> 00:21:19,290 For the next five years in particular 281 00:21:19,290 --> 00:21:21,250 I kept going back to Bali every winter 282 00:21:21,250 --> 00:21:22,660 and spent the whole winter up there, 283 00:21:22,660 --> 00:21:26,790 but word got out and slowly it started 284 00:21:26,790 --> 00:21:28,240 to get more and more crowded. 285 00:21:29,510 --> 00:21:32,540 So I decided to leave Bali at that 286 00:21:32,540 --> 00:21:36,570 and went on to explore other parts of Indonesia. 287 00:21:36,570 --> 00:21:38,960 Lombok in a dugout, aboard a freighter 288 00:21:38,960 --> 00:21:41,310 to islands off Sumatra. 289 00:21:41,310 --> 00:21:44,290 Sailed a yacht to Southeast Java. 290 00:21:44,290 --> 00:21:46,105 Pretty hedonistic. 291 00:21:46,105 --> 00:21:48,688 (upbeat music) 292 00:24:01,115 --> 00:24:04,724 In 1970, I was then selected as being part 293 00:24:04,724 --> 00:24:08,620 of this finance company's future management team. 294 00:24:08,620 --> 00:24:12,700 I was moved up to Sydney and then spent a couple of years 295 00:24:12,700 --> 00:24:16,634 as a systems auditor simply to learn the protocols 296 00:24:16,634 --> 00:24:19,224 of lending money and collecting it. 297 00:24:19,224 --> 00:24:22,160 (man shouting) 298 00:24:22,160 --> 00:24:25,560 Moving to a place like Sydney was exhilarating. 299 00:24:25,560 --> 00:24:27,460 It was exciting. 300 00:24:27,460 --> 00:24:29,060 I'd never seen anything like it. 301 00:24:32,220 --> 00:24:35,163 Then I started to see it in another way. 302 00:24:37,300 --> 00:24:39,028 Coming from a place like Hobart 303 00:24:39,028 --> 00:24:41,843 where I'd had this incredible, strong connection. 304 00:24:42,940 --> 00:24:45,740 It was really nothing like that in Sydney. 305 00:24:45,740 --> 00:24:46,930 There were too many people. 306 00:24:46,930 --> 00:24:49,193 It was crushing, overpowering. 307 00:24:50,350 --> 00:24:53,963 Anything I could connect to was simply buried in concrete. 308 00:24:56,420 --> 00:25:00,564 I was being asked to sell my soul to an institution 309 00:25:00,564 --> 00:25:03,450 and in return I got loads and loads of money. 310 00:25:03,450 --> 00:25:06,030 I got to sleep with my secretary, get fat, 311 00:25:06,030 --> 00:25:08,560 and when I seriously thought about it. 312 00:25:08,560 --> 00:25:09,760 It's not what I wanted. 313 00:25:09,760 --> 00:25:14,263 It's not a way that I saw myself living and being happy. 314 00:25:15,270 --> 00:25:16,930 I walked away, left the company, 315 00:25:16,930 --> 00:25:20,293 left the big city lights and just got lost for a while. 316 00:25:23,954 --> 00:25:25,500 (gentle guitar music) 317 00:25:25,500 --> 00:25:29,090 And then one day this friend of mine rang me and 318 00:25:29,090 --> 00:25:32,340 said, "do you wanna go on a road trip for the weekend?" 319 00:25:32,340 --> 00:25:33,237 I said, "Yeah sure, where are we going?" 320 00:25:33,237 --> 00:25:36,027 He said, "Oh, let's rock up the West Coast." 321 00:25:39,780 --> 00:25:41,380 We ended up on King Island, 322 00:25:41,380 --> 00:25:43,533 which is a pretty interesting road trip. 323 00:25:45,491 --> 00:25:47,991 (cows mooing) 324 00:25:50,350 --> 00:25:53,790 Spent a year sharing house that was off the grid. 325 00:25:53,790 --> 00:25:57,110 Pretty much hippy existence, with this Czechoslovakian guy, 326 00:25:57,110 --> 00:25:59,003 and the three of us worked in a mine. 327 00:26:00,080 --> 00:26:03,713 Essentially we just worked and slept, and went surfing. 328 00:26:06,291 --> 00:26:10,117 There were four surfers on the island. 329 00:26:11,040 --> 00:26:13,880 It's a magnet for swell and it's got fantastic beaches, 330 00:26:13,880 --> 00:26:16,680 and conditions made it such that the island 331 00:26:16,680 --> 00:26:18,280 was just covered in magic waves. 332 00:26:33,478 --> 00:26:36,819 I spent a year out there and after I'd saved enough money 333 00:26:36,819 --> 00:26:40,240 I thought, I had a yearning for change 334 00:26:40,240 --> 00:26:41,440 and so I caught a plane. 335 00:26:42,510 --> 00:26:44,496 Flying across Bass Strait and I remember looking 336 00:26:44,496 --> 00:26:46,762 out the window and seeing the Nut at Stanley 337 00:26:46,762 --> 00:26:50,553 and suddenly I realized that I was coming home. 338 00:26:54,482 --> 00:26:55,840 (guitar music) 339 00:26:55,840 --> 00:26:58,330 I had enough money from working at the mine 340 00:26:58,330 --> 00:27:02,270 to buy six acres of land down near Clifton Beach 341 00:27:02,270 --> 00:27:05,063 so I did that, then I met a girl. 342 00:27:07,040 --> 00:27:11,043 Within two months of meeting Robyn, we were married. 343 00:27:12,640 --> 00:27:14,610 A month later we started building a house. 344 00:27:14,610 --> 00:27:16,323 And it wasn't so much a house. 345 00:27:16,323 --> 00:27:20,883 It became our home for the past 40 years. 346 00:27:28,560 --> 00:27:29,900 There's not many people live there, 347 00:27:29,900 --> 00:27:34,900 and the only services in the immediate area are a surf club, 348 00:27:35,000 --> 00:27:38,290 a lawn bowls club, and a cemetery, 349 00:27:38,290 --> 00:27:41,590 which pretty much sums up the sort of place I live, 350 00:27:41,590 --> 00:27:45,210 and it's everything I want, everything I need. 351 00:27:45,210 --> 00:27:46,870 Couldn't be happier. 352 00:27:46,870 --> 00:27:47,703 Very lucky man. 353 00:27:50,973 --> 00:27:52,743 Right place, right time. 354 00:27:54,230 --> 00:27:55,823 Life goes down another path. 355 00:27:56,761 --> 00:27:58,070 You don't even know. 356 00:27:58,070 --> 00:27:59,920 Don't even know you left the highway. 357 00:28:03,460 --> 00:28:05,044 In lots of ways I was a late starter. 358 00:28:05,044 --> 00:28:06,803 I didn't get married till I was 30. 359 00:28:08,291 --> 00:28:11,703 Our one and only son Tim was born when I was 40. 360 00:28:12,670 --> 00:28:14,973 But we made the decision to only have one. 361 00:28:17,760 --> 00:28:20,181 There's a poem, which talks about raising kids 362 00:28:20,181 --> 00:28:23,623 and that you're actually nothing but an archer. 363 00:28:24,670 --> 00:28:28,850 And your children are from you but are not of you 364 00:28:28,850 --> 00:28:30,293 and they're like arrows. 365 00:28:32,620 --> 00:28:35,140 Your role is to, when the time is right, 366 00:28:35,140 --> 00:28:37,523 to pick up that arrow and release it. 367 00:28:38,970 --> 00:28:42,613 And your duty is to release it in the best direction. 368 00:28:43,460 --> 00:28:47,030 When it's let go, you admire it's journey 369 00:28:47,880 --> 00:28:50,361 and trust that you've done things 370 00:28:50,361 --> 00:28:52,723 up to that point as you should. 371 00:28:55,830 --> 00:28:57,520 And raising Tim was a bit like that. 372 00:28:57,520 --> 00:29:01,410 I was very, very conscious of not forcing him 373 00:29:01,410 --> 00:29:02,633 into my lifestyle. 374 00:29:05,210 --> 00:29:08,290 And if he wanted to surf, it had to be of his own volition 375 00:29:08,290 --> 00:29:11,003 not because his Dad wanted him to. 376 00:29:14,245 --> 00:29:19,245 In the late 1980s, I'd been surfing the Southwest Wilderness 377 00:29:19,600 --> 00:29:22,033 for quite a while, for probably about 10 years. 378 00:29:23,958 --> 00:29:25,900 And I had a friend down one year from Queensland 379 00:29:25,900 --> 00:29:30,900 and he wanted to go, and then Tim piped up, he was five, 380 00:29:32,160 --> 00:29:33,047 and said he wanted to come along. 381 00:29:33,047 --> 00:29:36,100 And I said, well, okay, you can come along, 382 00:29:36,100 --> 00:29:38,340 but there's a rule here. 383 00:29:38,340 --> 00:29:40,733 There's no whinging when it turns to crap. 384 00:29:41,820 --> 00:29:43,860 Things get bad, that's it. 385 00:29:43,860 --> 00:29:46,560 You just shut up and soldier on, okay? 386 00:29:46,560 --> 00:29:47,965 Okay, deal done. 387 00:29:47,965 --> 00:29:50,965 (upbeat rock music) 388 00:29:53,689 --> 00:29:54,930 He probably spent so long sitting on 389 00:29:54,930 --> 00:29:57,410 that bloody beach that he just, 390 00:29:57,410 --> 00:29:59,523 he picked up surfing through osmosis. 391 00:30:00,960 --> 00:30:03,952 By the time it was his turn, and he decided that he wanted 392 00:30:03,952 --> 00:30:07,760 to do it, that was very, very special. 393 00:30:07,760 --> 00:30:08,993 I'd passed the baton on. 394 00:30:10,584 --> 00:30:13,120 It was in good hands and from what I could see 395 00:30:14,480 --> 00:30:16,873 Tim was gonna carry it for a long, long time. 396 00:30:23,820 --> 00:30:27,250 In surfing terms, I could've died there and then 397 00:30:27,250 --> 00:30:28,453 and been quite happy. 398 00:30:29,780 --> 00:30:32,030 Yeah, that was special to hand that sort of 399 00:30:33,010 --> 00:30:35,523 way of life on to your kid. 400 00:30:38,543 --> 00:30:41,293 (waves crashing) 401 00:30:46,629 --> 00:30:48,712 I always had this ritual. 402 00:30:49,654 --> 00:30:54,654 I'd walk out of the surf, no matter what it was like. 403 00:30:54,850 --> 00:30:57,835 I'd always turned and faced the ocean. 404 00:30:57,835 --> 00:30:59,410 - [Man] Whoa-ho-ho! 405 00:30:59,410 --> 00:31:01,910 - [Mick] The traditional surf god was called Hui. 406 00:31:03,680 --> 00:31:05,670 And I always thanked Hui for the day. 407 00:31:07,014 --> 00:31:08,583 I always paid my respects. 408 00:31:09,840 --> 00:31:11,220 That's way I lived. 409 00:31:11,220 --> 00:31:13,050 I always tried to live in the moment, 410 00:31:13,050 --> 00:31:15,363 not get too far ahead of myself. 411 00:31:17,870 --> 00:31:20,450 After each surf, I tried to treat it as if 412 00:31:21,450 --> 00:31:25,217 that was gonna be my last surf ever and one day it was. 413 00:31:26,880 --> 00:31:29,343 After 50 years, just walked away. 414 00:31:30,250 --> 00:31:31,150 That was that. 415 00:31:32,240 --> 00:31:34,223 Regrets, none whatsoever. 416 00:31:35,371 --> 00:31:36,204 (engine humming) 417 00:31:36,204 --> 00:31:41,180 Surfing kept me young and fit till my 60s. 418 00:31:43,380 --> 00:31:46,294 I got to travel around the world extensively. 419 00:31:46,294 --> 00:31:50,000 I've had some of the most fantastic times 420 00:31:50,000 --> 00:31:51,540 in my life in Indonesia. 421 00:31:51,540 --> 00:31:54,650 Remote islands that had never seen white people before. 422 00:31:54,650 --> 00:31:56,720 We'd rocked up in a boat and surfed for days. 423 00:31:56,720 --> 00:31:57,673 We were gods. 424 00:31:58,750 --> 00:32:01,470 We left a surfboard for them at the end. 425 00:32:01,470 --> 00:32:02,470 And they knew we were gods. 426 00:32:05,007 --> 00:32:08,861 Those kids now are probably surfing their life out. 427 00:32:08,861 --> 00:32:09,911 Fantastic, fantastic. 428 00:32:13,280 --> 00:32:14,577 I mean how greedy do you wanna be? 429 00:32:14,577 --> 00:32:16,827 How many rides on the Big Dipper do you want? 430 00:32:20,509 --> 00:32:21,759 I'd had enough. 431 00:32:25,590 --> 00:32:28,757 (mellow guitar music) 432 00:32:36,666 --> 00:32:39,416 (birds chirping) 433 00:32:40,804 --> 00:32:43,530 I drifted through a lot of jobs until the early 80s 434 00:32:43,530 --> 00:32:46,653 when I landed a sales position in the film industry. 435 00:32:49,380 --> 00:32:51,183 In many ways, it was like surfing. 436 00:32:52,130 --> 00:32:55,260 I'd always considered surfing an art form. 437 00:32:55,260 --> 00:32:57,530 Self-expression with no rules. 438 00:32:57,530 --> 00:32:59,540 Capturing the moment. 439 00:32:59,540 --> 00:33:01,086 Whether you make a film or a wave, 440 00:33:01,086 --> 00:33:03,283 it all comes down to what looks good. 441 00:33:04,860 --> 00:33:07,610 I ended up making over 100 documentaries. 442 00:33:07,610 --> 00:33:09,880 Mostly about people and their interaction 443 00:33:09,880 --> 00:33:13,970 with the natural world, mountain climbing, tiger hunts. 444 00:33:13,970 --> 00:33:16,180 Worked on Japanese documentaries. 445 00:33:16,180 --> 00:33:18,113 Even a feature with Fuji Films. 446 00:33:20,552 --> 00:33:23,135 (upbeat music) 447 00:33:27,620 --> 00:33:29,160 But my proudest achievement was 448 00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:31,623 with the Tasmanian Aboriginal community. 449 00:33:35,450 --> 00:33:39,590 I was lucky they openly welcomed me into their world. 450 00:33:39,590 --> 00:33:41,958 In return, I helped tell their stories 451 00:33:41,958 --> 00:33:44,663 and taught their kids how to tell a story. 452 00:33:54,084 --> 00:33:56,500 I developed very close relationships 453 00:33:56,500 --> 00:33:59,283 with quite a few members of the Aboriginal community. 454 00:34:00,120 --> 00:34:02,463 I hold that time very, very dear to me. 455 00:34:04,100 --> 00:34:07,480 They taught me a lot and I learned a lot, 456 00:34:07,480 --> 00:34:10,410 particularly relationship with place, 457 00:34:10,410 --> 00:34:12,930 what they call on country, 458 00:34:12,930 --> 00:34:15,543 and I got to learn what it meant to them. 459 00:34:19,853 --> 00:34:22,170 - [Cameraman] What do you reckon, Buck? 460 00:34:22,170 --> 00:34:24,323 - Fantastic, beautiful place. 461 00:34:24,323 --> 00:34:25,744 - [Cameraman] Wanna buy it? 462 00:34:25,744 --> 00:34:26,577 - Buy it ? 463 00:34:26,577 --> 00:34:28,005 (laughing) 464 00:34:28,005 --> 00:34:30,171 You g to make a bite? - Is that an option? 465 00:34:32,086 --> 00:34:33,315 - [Cameraman] You wanna put in a land claim? 466 00:34:33,315 --> 00:34:34,446 - Put a land claim? 467 00:34:34,446 --> 00:34:36,570 (laughing) 468 00:34:36,570 --> 00:34:38,440 - [Mick] In many ways, I see the problem 469 00:34:38,440 --> 00:34:41,353 of disconnection with country a universal one. 470 00:34:42,430 --> 00:34:45,098 Modernity's wrecking havoc on everybody's relationship 471 00:34:45,098 --> 00:34:48,603 with the natural world, not just the Aboriginals. 472 00:34:52,777 --> 00:34:55,190 (mellow music) 473 00:34:55,190 --> 00:34:57,940 (birds chirping) 474 00:34:59,531 --> 00:35:03,281 In 2008, I suddenly found myself in hospital. 475 00:35:05,200 --> 00:35:08,863 I'd endured a six-inch split to my aorta artery. 476 00:35:14,670 --> 00:35:19,380 Initially, my chance of survival appeared pretty slim 477 00:35:19,380 --> 00:35:21,853 and full recovery slimmer still. 478 00:35:23,910 --> 00:35:25,620 Fortunately, after a few weeks, 479 00:35:25,620 --> 00:35:28,323 I moved out of danger and was sent home. 480 00:35:29,510 --> 00:35:32,760 I was far from well though and popping pills like a junkie 481 00:35:32,760 --> 00:35:35,090 but at least I was home. 482 00:36:09,413 --> 00:36:12,410 A week later, I was back in hospital. 483 00:36:12,410 --> 00:36:13,660 Something else was wrong. 484 00:36:19,334 --> 00:36:23,917 I now had a serious mental health problem to deal with. 485 00:36:36,600 --> 00:36:40,263 Rather than getting better, I descended into a dark abyss. 486 00:36:44,300 --> 00:36:47,802 Mick Lawrence had become a complete stranger to me. 487 00:36:47,802 --> 00:36:50,113 I was both lost and scared. 488 00:36:52,840 --> 00:36:55,102 So I went back to my GP and told him 489 00:36:55,102 --> 00:36:57,667 I was bailing on my pills. 490 00:36:57,667 --> 00:36:59,357 "But why?" he said. 491 00:36:59,357 --> 00:37:01,637 "Because they're destroying me. 492 00:37:01,637 --> 00:37:03,497 "They've got me on the road to nowhere." 493 00:37:06,927 --> 00:37:10,973 "Okay, but I need to tell ya, this may not end well. 494 00:37:12,894 --> 00:37:15,694 "It may be time to get your board back out of the shed." 495 00:37:19,444 --> 00:37:23,393 I thought about it, but back wasn't the way I wanted to go. 496 00:37:25,319 --> 00:37:27,226 (waves crashing) 497 00:37:27,226 --> 00:37:28,833 I called mine The Tardis. 498 00:37:31,088 --> 00:37:32,343 It was like a surfboard. 499 00:37:33,640 --> 00:37:35,923 Instead of standing on it, you sat in it. 500 00:37:38,720 --> 00:37:41,243 Similar, very, very similar to a surfboard. 501 00:37:42,280 --> 00:37:44,303 So I had no problem with the transition. 502 00:37:50,080 --> 00:37:52,220 My problem was, as my GP warned me, 503 00:37:52,220 --> 00:37:54,480 your biggest danger is yourself because 504 00:37:54,480 --> 00:37:57,150 if you don't control yourself you're gonna blow yourself up. 505 00:37:57,150 --> 00:37:58,343 You'll die out there. 506 00:38:00,283 --> 00:38:01,300 (soft guitar music) 507 00:38:01,300 --> 00:38:03,250 Now, I'm not a good listener. 508 00:38:03,250 --> 00:38:04,803 I never have been. 509 00:38:06,107 --> 00:38:09,250 So it's pretty amusing that I'd discovered the secret 510 00:38:09,250 --> 00:38:11,273 of not blowing myself up by listening. 511 00:38:16,984 --> 00:38:21,160 And that came from the cadence of the boat 512 00:38:21,160 --> 00:38:22,410 moving through the water. 513 00:38:24,200 --> 00:38:26,250 It's just like a mechanic can tell 514 00:38:26,250 --> 00:38:28,433 when a car's in tune, you can just hear. 515 00:38:30,075 --> 00:38:32,400 The same with a boat, the same with a surfboard. 516 00:38:32,400 --> 00:38:34,050 You know when it's running sweet. 517 00:38:36,950 --> 00:38:39,793 I quickly discovered that once I got into that cadence 518 00:38:39,793 --> 00:38:42,780 I could paddle for three or four, five hours 519 00:38:42,780 --> 00:38:44,763 and not even break into a sweat. 520 00:38:50,580 --> 00:38:52,630 Within the space of a few months, 521 00:38:52,630 --> 00:38:55,863 I was paddling around home, around Storm Bay. 522 00:38:56,754 --> 00:38:58,600 I was clocking up about 100Ks a week 523 00:38:58,600 --> 00:39:02,239 and I was feeling great. 524 00:39:02,239 --> 00:39:03,480 Physically, I was feeling great, 525 00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:05,853 and I knew I had turned a corner. 526 00:39:09,630 --> 00:39:14,000 Trouble was, I didn't know how to do what was for my head. 527 00:39:16,850 --> 00:39:17,683 Bloody dog. 528 00:39:18,941 --> 00:39:21,045 (suspenseful music) 529 00:39:21,045 --> 00:39:23,795 (birds chirping) 530 00:39:25,530 --> 00:39:27,833 I've never been a stranger to the black dog. 531 00:39:27,833 --> 00:39:31,607 As a kid, there was always one at home. 532 00:39:31,607 --> 00:39:33,723 Wasn't mine, belonged to my Dad. 533 00:39:35,429 --> 00:39:37,110 So when he turned up in my backyard, 534 00:39:37,110 --> 00:39:38,540 it was a real kick in the guts. 535 00:39:38,540 --> 00:39:42,253 'Cause I thought I'd buried the mongrel with my Dad. 536 00:39:43,660 --> 00:39:46,380 There he was, staring me in the eye, 537 00:39:46,380 --> 00:39:49,360 tongue hanging out, panting, glaring at me 538 00:39:49,360 --> 00:39:53,103 with those bloody eyes, and I was scared. 539 00:39:57,353 --> 00:40:00,780 I just hung in there and hoped that 540 00:40:00,780 --> 00:40:01,971 by getting myself physically fit 541 00:40:01,971 --> 00:40:06,020 the mental bit would look after itself. 542 00:40:06,020 --> 00:40:07,080 But it was a tough time. 543 00:40:07,080 --> 00:40:08,803 I couldn't tell anyone about it. 544 00:40:10,010 --> 00:40:11,160 I couldn't tell anyone. 545 00:40:12,225 --> 00:40:13,850 I don't think many blokes can. 546 00:40:15,530 --> 00:40:16,400 And it's... 547 00:40:18,264 --> 00:40:20,680 I think moments like that, when you realize that 548 00:40:22,280 --> 00:40:24,199 even though you're surrounded by family and friends 549 00:40:24,199 --> 00:40:27,160 and you live in a beautiful, peaceful place 550 00:40:27,160 --> 00:40:28,460 where everyone's friendly, 551 00:40:30,840 --> 00:40:32,803 ultimately, you're on your own. 552 00:40:34,244 --> 00:40:37,244 And you've gotta sort it our yourself. 553 00:40:40,040 --> 00:40:40,953 That's what I did. 554 00:40:43,533 --> 00:40:46,116 It wasn't as hard as I thought. 555 00:40:52,123 --> 00:40:53,823 I remember paddling up this inlet. 556 00:40:56,070 --> 00:41:00,713 And suddenly in front of me I could see a platypus, 557 00:41:01,660 --> 00:41:04,090 and he was just gliding across the top of the water, 558 00:41:04,090 --> 00:41:06,613 so I stopped paddling and just sat and watched. 559 00:41:07,830 --> 00:41:11,823 And then suddenly he realized that I was in his space. 560 00:41:13,170 --> 00:41:18,070 He freaked, he dived, he disappeared, he ran away. 561 00:41:19,757 --> 00:41:22,320 And I suddenly realized that that was the answer. 562 00:41:22,320 --> 00:41:24,220 That was the way to deal with the dog. 563 00:41:25,220 --> 00:41:27,033 I just have to deny him space. 564 00:41:30,998 --> 00:41:33,748 (birds chirping) 565 00:41:34,920 --> 00:41:39,150 There's a lot of similarities between surfing and kayaking. 566 00:41:39,150 --> 00:41:41,650 You're on the water, working in harmony 567 00:41:41,650 --> 00:41:43,643 with a finely-tuned water craft. 568 00:41:44,510 --> 00:41:47,110 It requires the same sense of balance, 569 00:41:47,110 --> 00:41:50,403 maneuvering, gliding, accelerating. 570 00:41:52,780 --> 00:41:54,320 I guess the biggest difference is that 571 00:41:54,320 --> 00:41:57,840 with surfing you're focused on the wave. 572 00:41:57,840 --> 00:42:00,153 With kayaking, you're not riding a wave. 573 00:42:01,620 --> 00:42:02,720 You're riding a place. 574 00:42:07,093 --> 00:42:08,070 (solemn music) 575 00:42:08,070 --> 00:42:11,050 It was only when I stopped surfing that I realized that 576 00:42:11,050 --> 00:42:14,630 while we surfed all these iconic places 577 00:42:14,630 --> 00:42:17,097 it was only ever about the wave. 578 00:42:17,097 --> 00:42:19,547 The place just happened to be where the wave was. 579 00:42:20,910 --> 00:42:22,660 Sure, we appreciated where we were 580 00:42:22,660 --> 00:42:25,113 but it was just the backdrop for the main act. 581 00:42:30,150 --> 00:42:32,360 With kayaking, place dominates. 582 00:42:32,360 --> 00:42:34,860 You're part of the bigger thing. 583 00:42:34,860 --> 00:42:36,433 Part of a much bigger wave. 584 00:42:37,613 --> 00:42:39,453 Not so myopic. 585 00:42:42,971 --> 00:42:45,370 The other big difference is the rush. 586 00:42:45,370 --> 00:42:48,560 The euphoria you gain from the experience. 587 00:42:48,560 --> 00:42:52,343 Riding a wave is usually short, intense, exciting. 588 00:42:53,574 --> 00:42:55,030 (waves crashing) 589 00:42:55,030 --> 00:42:56,093 Full of adrenaline. 590 00:42:57,100 --> 00:42:59,820 Kayaking, however, moves to a different rhythm. 591 00:42:59,820 --> 00:43:03,543 It's prolonged, more laid back, tranquil. 592 00:43:04,480 --> 00:43:07,543 You still get a rush, still taste the adrenaline. 593 00:43:08,550 --> 00:43:11,503 But it's a rush for the spirit, not so much the body. 594 00:43:13,276 --> 00:43:16,026 (engine humming) 595 00:43:22,850 --> 00:43:24,473 Ask a surfer what he does and the response 596 00:43:24,473 --> 00:43:29,473 will be ride waves, of course, but that's a delusion. 597 00:43:30,363 --> 00:43:32,380 When you really think about it, 598 00:43:32,380 --> 00:43:35,383 surfers spend very little time actually surfing. 599 00:43:37,110 --> 00:43:40,330 At best, you might catch 10 waves in an hour. 600 00:43:40,330 --> 00:43:44,700 A long wave lasts 30 seconds, if you're lucky,. 601 00:43:44,700 --> 00:43:46,854 So five minutes per hour hardly counts 602 00:43:46,854 --> 00:43:48,913 as wall-to-wall adrenaline. 603 00:43:50,468 --> 00:43:54,070 (gentle piano music) 604 00:43:54,070 --> 00:43:56,300 With kayaking, the rush lasts 605 00:43:56,300 --> 00:43:58,643 for as long as you remain in the zone. 606 00:44:04,465 --> 00:44:07,132 (wind rustling) 607 00:44:14,240 --> 00:44:16,360 It's certainly a more humbling experience. 608 00:44:16,360 --> 00:44:19,790 Whereas surfing tends to massage the ego, 609 00:44:19,790 --> 00:44:22,670 kayaking simply massages the soul. 610 00:44:37,391 --> 00:44:41,530 I remember surfing the Southwest for the very first time 611 00:44:41,530 --> 00:44:42,413 on my own. 612 00:44:43,473 --> 00:44:45,780 It was quite large and challenging to surf. 613 00:44:45,780 --> 00:44:46,613 And if I'd been there with my mates, 614 00:44:46,613 --> 00:44:48,320 I would have been charging. 615 00:44:48,320 --> 00:44:49,833 I would have been frothing. 616 00:44:51,030 --> 00:44:52,763 But I wasn't, I was scared. 617 00:44:57,870 --> 00:44:59,240 And it took me two or three sessions 618 00:44:59,240 --> 00:45:01,713 before I felt anywhere near at ease. 619 00:45:04,513 --> 00:45:08,278 (feet lapping water) 620 00:45:08,278 --> 00:45:10,801 And it probably took me four or five solo trips 621 00:45:10,801 --> 00:45:15,801 before I found that, not only did I enjoy that solitude, 622 00:45:17,326 --> 00:45:18,659 I thrived on it. 623 00:45:32,416 --> 00:45:35,631 (somber music) 624 00:45:35,631 --> 00:45:38,381 (birds chirping) 625 00:45:40,454 --> 00:45:43,287 (water splashing) 626 00:45:47,353 --> 00:45:51,686 There's a fine line between solitude and loneliness. 627 00:45:53,740 --> 00:45:55,224 For me, the key to being comfortable 628 00:45:55,224 --> 00:45:58,773 with solitude is being comfortable with yourself. 629 00:46:04,550 --> 00:46:07,740 I'm lucky, I've always enjoyed my own company. 630 00:46:07,740 --> 00:46:10,503 Never missed or feared having no one else around. 631 00:46:16,960 --> 00:46:19,090 Not sure whether this is fine judgment 632 00:46:19,090 --> 00:46:21,093 or a dose of good luck. 633 00:46:23,780 --> 00:46:25,580 You can see where the tides come in. 634 00:46:30,890 --> 00:46:34,133 Apart from stupidity, your major enemy is the weather. 635 00:46:36,500 --> 00:46:38,860 Fortunately, I knew the enemy well. 636 00:46:38,860 --> 00:46:42,693 I knew its capacity, its behavior, its signs. 637 00:46:43,840 --> 00:46:46,753 Knew when to go and when to stay. 638 00:46:46,753 --> 00:46:48,663 I was comfortable with all that. 639 00:46:54,950 --> 00:46:58,190 Surfing also taught me to stay calm in a crisis. 640 00:46:58,190 --> 00:47:02,463 To think my way through, that panic can kill ya. 641 00:47:04,390 --> 00:47:07,937 So falling back on myself didn't phase me at all. 642 00:47:09,957 --> 00:47:13,350 (birds chirping) 643 00:47:13,350 --> 00:47:16,050 In the natural world, there are no human ideals 644 00:47:16,050 --> 00:47:19,563 like equality, rights, justice. 645 00:47:21,850 --> 00:47:23,690 Out there when it all goes pear shaped, 646 00:47:23,690 --> 00:47:26,263 you're simply left with the consequences. 647 00:47:29,230 --> 00:47:30,633 It is what it is. 648 00:47:32,290 --> 00:47:36,533 And as alien as it might be, you can't sue nature. 649 00:47:39,350 --> 00:47:43,033 The other thing about nature is that voids never last long. 650 00:47:44,960 --> 00:47:49,960 Rejuvenation follows destruction as night follows day. 651 00:47:50,010 --> 00:47:52,473 It's a natural order of things. 652 00:47:54,390 --> 00:47:57,093 Unfortunately, the human world isn't like that. 653 00:47:58,602 --> 00:48:00,170 There's a part of us that loves 654 00:48:00,170 --> 00:48:01,950 coming up with negative stuff. 655 00:48:01,950 --> 00:48:05,333 Loves supplying fertile ground for our dark side. 656 00:48:10,030 --> 00:48:12,022 I found the best way to deal with these negative forces 657 00:48:12,022 --> 00:48:16,600 was to fill the void with what's happening around you, 658 00:48:16,600 --> 00:48:17,850 become part of the place. 659 00:48:20,020 --> 00:48:22,070 That's the thing I learned about the dog. 660 00:48:23,170 --> 00:48:26,033 It thrives on being the center of attention. 661 00:48:28,810 --> 00:48:30,920 And once I stopped giving it attention, 662 00:48:30,920 --> 00:48:32,840 it began to lose interest. (Tasmanian devil wailing) 663 00:48:32,840 --> 00:48:34,643 Started to leave me alone. 664 00:48:38,940 --> 00:48:42,430 That's when I found things began to turn around, 665 00:48:42,430 --> 00:48:45,263 when I got a chance to find myself again. 666 00:48:46,361 --> 00:48:49,444 (upbeat banjo music) 667 00:48:53,810 --> 00:48:54,643 Birch's River. 668 00:48:56,932 --> 00:48:58,163 More creek than a river. 669 00:49:01,050 --> 00:49:03,000 Not often I get to paddle off the map. 670 00:49:04,670 --> 00:49:06,323 So I think I'm gonna turn round. 671 00:49:10,200 --> 00:49:11,033 Look. 672 00:49:11,033 --> 00:49:13,233 I might even be on the Pocrocker River. 673 00:49:15,221 --> 00:49:16,593 I might even be lost. 674 00:49:19,628 --> 00:49:21,628 I don't know about this. 675 00:49:22,973 --> 00:49:24,071 (gentle electric guitar music) 676 00:49:24,071 --> 00:49:28,630 It sounds a bit weird, but I actually enjoy being lost. 677 00:49:28,630 --> 00:49:30,170 Where am I, who am I? 678 00:49:32,240 --> 00:49:33,730 What makes you tick? 679 00:49:33,730 --> 00:49:34,763 What tips you over? 680 00:49:35,953 --> 00:49:36,786 (waves crashing) 681 00:49:36,786 --> 00:49:40,765 I like the process, searching, finding answers. 682 00:49:40,765 --> 00:49:42,098 Becoming unlost. 683 00:49:53,516 --> 00:49:54,954 (birds chirping) 684 00:49:54,954 --> 00:49:57,240 For the next five years, I threw myself 685 00:49:57,240 --> 00:49:59,963 into exploring the Southwest wilderness. 686 00:50:01,480 --> 00:50:03,510 I started in the mountain lakes 687 00:50:03,510 --> 00:50:05,490 and then worked my way down through 688 00:50:05,490 --> 00:50:07,200 the various river systems, 689 00:50:07,200 --> 00:50:10,113 into the harbors and out onto the coastline. 690 00:50:11,010 --> 00:50:14,053 Usually I had no plan, just drifted. 691 00:50:21,890 --> 00:50:24,283 And then I started to focus on Port Davey. 692 00:50:25,290 --> 00:50:27,970 Of all the Southwest, this was it. 693 00:50:27,970 --> 00:50:30,186 This was the spot. 694 00:50:30,186 --> 00:50:33,853 (upbeat instrumental music) 695 00:51:43,585 --> 00:51:44,585 How amazing. 696 00:51:48,440 --> 00:51:49,320 So you've taken this 697 00:51:49,320 --> 00:51:51,054 all sorts of places, rivers. - Yeah, I have. 698 00:51:51,054 --> 00:51:53,440 But only since we came to Australia. 699 00:51:53,440 --> 00:51:56,115 'Cause we bought it specially for Australia and New Zealand. 700 00:51:56,115 --> 00:51:58,698 (lips blowing) 701 00:52:05,575 --> 00:52:08,011 - [Mick] A very personal relationship with your kayak. 702 00:52:08,011 --> 00:52:11,482 (laughing) - We're intimately acquainted. 703 00:52:15,374 --> 00:52:16,580 Well, the great thing about this is, 704 00:52:16,580 --> 00:52:19,370 when you're portering this thing, 705 00:52:19,370 --> 00:52:22,220 I can just slip straight into the rucksack 706 00:52:22,220 --> 00:52:25,144 and actually wear the whole thing up above my head. 707 00:52:25,144 --> 00:52:26,270 It just stays on my back. 708 00:52:26,270 --> 00:52:27,540 So I just put this on basically 709 00:52:27,540 --> 00:52:31,147 and wear the kayak on my back. (laughs) 710 00:52:31,147 --> 00:52:33,750 - [Mick] I don't mind telling ya. I reckon you guys are nuts. 711 00:52:33,750 --> 00:52:36,295 (laughing) 712 00:52:36,295 --> 00:52:37,378 - [Woman] No. 713 00:52:41,160 --> 00:52:42,845 - [Mick] Well, happy trails. 714 00:52:42,845 --> 00:52:43,678 - Thank you. - Thank you so much. 715 00:52:43,678 --> 00:52:44,943 - Thanks, Mick. - Yeah. 716 00:52:47,100 --> 00:52:48,810 And you remember the directions, don't you? 717 00:52:48,810 --> 00:52:50,460 Turn left to Antarctica. 718 00:52:50,460 --> 00:52:52,710 (laughing) 719 00:52:59,267 --> 00:53:02,100 Hey, with no wind that thing goes! 720 00:53:03,480 --> 00:53:04,559 - [Man] Easy! 721 00:53:04,559 --> 00:53:05,768 You can even wear the thing! 722 00:53:05,768 --> 00:53:08,749 (Mick laughs) 723 00:53:08,749 --> 00:53:10,757 Coo-ee! 724 00:53:10,757 --> 00:53:11,590 Burnie! 725 00:53:17,893 --> 00:53:20,640 - [Mick] That was a wonderful period in my life, 726 00:53:20,640 --> 00:53:24,463 a time when I was in almost constant state of contentment. 727 00:53:25,430 --> 00:53:27,390 And why shouldn't I be? 728 00:53:27,390 --> 00:53:31,160 In a space of five years, I'd cheated death, 729 00:53:31,160 --> 00:53:33,963 dealt with a dog, and found a new passion. 730 00:53:35,490 --> 00:53:37,770 It was the second major crisis in my life. 731 00:53:39,810 --> 00:53:42,720 I'd given it my best shot and 732 00:53:42,720 --> 00:53:44,903 I thought I'd handled it quite well. 733 00:53:44,903 --> 00:53:47,303 Thought my Dad would be proud of me. 734 00:53:51,120 --> 00:53:54,430 But it was also a time when I became a bit of a hermit, 735 00:53:54,430 --> 00:53:57,580 not that I'd turn my back on my surfing friends, 736 00:53:57,580 --> 00:53:59,793 just that our paths seldom crossed. 737 00:54:02,714 --> 00:54:05,714 (upbeat rock music) 738 00:54:18,390 --> 00:54:21,890 Even though my board gathers dust in the shed, 739 00:54:21,890 --> 00:54:22,840 I'm still a surfer. 740 00:54:23,690 --> 00:54:26,927 Still the go-to forecaster for Tim and his mates. 741 00:54:28,490 --> 00:54:31,503 They were living large, exploring new frontiers. 742 00:54:33,030 --> 00:54:35,290 In many ways, it was like watching my life 743 00:54:35,290 --> 00:54:36,303 replayed in HD. 744 00:54:40,000 --> 00:54:43,453 Up until now, life here has managed to fly under the radar. 745 00:54:44,340 --> 00:54:45,540 But things are changing. 746 00:54:46,650 --> 00:54:49,583 The world's seen what we have and they want a slice of it. 747 00:54:50,750 --> 00:54:53,690 What's more, our leaders are more than eager 748 00:54:53,690 --> 00:54:54,910 to serve it up to them. 749 00:54:56,363 --> 00:54:59,940 I see tourism as a potential Trojan Horse, 750 00:54:59,940 --> 00:55:02,713 a gift to be treated with great caution. 751 00:55:04,100 --> 00:55:07,350 Either way, our way of life is being challenged. 752 00:55:07,350 --> 00:55:08,923 And it's not just in the surf. 753 00:55:11,026 --> 00:55:13,859 (waves splashing) 754 00:55:17,780 --> 00:55:20,763 Then I was offered a job as a wilderness guide. 755 00:55:21,660 --> 00:55:25,210 Greg was an old surf mate of mine who ran three days tours 756 00:55:25,210 --> 00:55:28,300 from a standing camp at Port Davey. 757 00:55:28,300 --> 00:55:32,293 He's a master storyteller who really knew how to deliver. 758 00:55:34,019 --> 00:55:35,372 It was more like being on a surf trip 759 00:55:35,372 --> 00:55:38,834 with no surf than a guided tour. 760 00:55:38,834 --> 00:55:40,570 - [Woman] Out here on the rocks really. 761 00:55:40,570 --> 00:55:42,880 - [Man] Here we go, here we go, look. 762 00:55:42,880 --> 00:55:43,717 Here he is. 763 00:55:43,717 --> 00:55:46,550 (people cheering) 764 00:55:48,524 --> 00:55:49,656 - Whoa! - Hey! 765 00:55:49,656 --> 00:55:51,239 - [Woman] Oh, whoa! 766 00:55:53,090 --> 00:55:54,885 - [Mick] Even though it's very relaxed, 767 00:55:54,885 --> 00:55:57,243 we cram a lot into a day. 768 00:55:58,290 --> 00:56:00,410 Cruise around offshore islands, 769 00:56:00,410 --> 00:56:05,410 stroll through ancient forests, climb some mountains. 770 00:56:05,552 --> 00:56:09,219 (mellow instrumental music) 771 00:56:53,777 --> 00:56:56,444 (birds hirping) 772 00:57:04,773 --> 00:57:07,523 (birds trilling) 773 00:57:41,623 --> 00:57:45,223 It's a great job but I do have some reservations. 774 00:57:47,730 --> 00:57:51,593 I saw what tourism did to Bali and I'm very mindful of that. 775 00:57:53,060 --> 00:57:54,260 That place is now a zoo. 776 00:57:57,710 --> 00:58:00,460 This place is undergoing change as well. 777 00:58:00,460 --> 00:58:02,653 Slowly, but it is changing. 778 00:58:06,110 --> 00:58:07,460 It's all to do with people. 779 00:58:10,600 --> 00:58:13,940 In the time since I was born, 780 00:58:13,940 --> 00:58:15,690 the world's population has trebled. 781 00:58:17,910 --> 00:58:20,020 And if you look at it from another perspective, 782 00:58:20,020 --> 00:58:23,573 that means in the 70 years that I've been alive, 783 00:58:25,840 --> 00:58:28,523 my personal space has been reduced by a third. 784 00:58:30,310 --> 00:58:33,133 And that's frightening, that's frightening. 785 00:58:34,180 --> 00:58:37,700 I mean, even here, we live on this big rock 786 00:58:37,700 --> 00:58:40,070 surrounded by a moat, you'd think we're immune, 787 00:58:40,070 --> 00:58:40,903 but we're not. 788 00:58:42,630 --> 00:58:44,400 And that's our biggest challenge. 789 00:58:44,400 --> 00:58:47,423 Not just for the Southwest, it's the challenge for Tasmania. 790 00:58:49,360 --> 00:58:53,300 We've got to understand that not only do we need 791 00:58:53,300 --> 00:58:57,907 to protect the place, the space as well. 792 00:58:59,410 --> 00:59:01,870 (electronic music) 793 00:59:01,870 --> 00:59:04,620 (waves crashing) 794 00:59:12,237 --> 00:59:14,987 (birds chirping) 795 00:59:18,040 --> 00:59:20,580 With the approach of summer, things couldn't have been better. 796 00:59:22,410 --> 00:59:23,970 I was still stoked with kayaking. 797 00:59:23,970 --> 00:59:26,223 The guiding season was about to start. 798 00:59:28,400 --> 00:59:29,929 Tim and the love of his life, Kaitlyn, 799 00:59:29,929 --> 00:59:31,633 had just bought their first home. 800 00:59:32,940 --> 00:59:35,014 And for the first time in my life, 801 00:59:35,014 --> 00:59:37,233 I thought about being a grandfather. 802 00:59:38,410 --> 00:59:42,683 I was on cloud nine, living the dream, I was. 803 00:59:42,683 --> 00:59:45,850 (mellow guitar music) 804 00:59:49,249 --> 00:59:52,166 It's an exclusive club that no one, 805 00:59:53,260 --> 00:59:57,133 no one deserves to be or wants to be a member of. 806 01:00:02,442 --> 01:00:05,680 The ceremony involved a traditional surfer's sendoff 807 01:00:05,680 --> 01:00:08,320 and Tim's partner Kaitlyn and I 808 01:00:08,320 --> 01:00:12,080 carried his ashes down through a guard of honor. 809 01:00:12,080 --> 01:00:14,743 Over 200 of Tim's surfing friends. 810 01:00:18,430 --> 01:00:21,360 Tim's mates followed us out and formed a circle. 811 01:00:21,360 --> 01:00:23,240 Together we held his ashes aloft 812 01:00:23,240 --> 01:00:26,902 and scattered them to the breeze. 813 01:00:26,902 --> 01:00:29,569 (waves rushing) 814 01:00:35,900 --> 01:00:37,100 I call them rogue waves. 815 01:00:38,203 --> 01:00:42,073 They come outta nowhere, at any time, from any direction. 816 01:00:46,417 --> 01:00:48,667 Sometimes there's only one. 817 01:00:49,803 --> 01:00:51,720 Sometimes endless sets. 818 01:00:57,577 --> 01:01:01,360 And when they hit, they drag you down 819 01:01:01,360 --> 01:01:03,883 into the deepest depths of despair. 820 01:01:07,630 --> 01:01:09,910 It'd be very easy if you just gave in 821 01:01:09,910 --> 01:01:12,750 and rolled over and said I can't take it anymore. 822 01:01:12,750 --> 01:01:15,890 I don't think anyone could blame you for that. 823 01:01:17,663 --> 01:01:20,003 My Dad, he couldn't work it out. 824 01:01:20,920 --> 01:01:23,983 He rolled over, he gave up. 825 01:01:28,143 --> 01:01:31,226 (propellers humming) 826 01:01:32,917 --> 01:01:35,667 (engine humming) 827 01:01:39,060 --> 01:01:41,051 A few days after Tim's service, 828 01:01:41,051 --> 01:01:44,470 I had my first camp for the season. 829 01:01:44,470 --> 01:01:47,120 Back-to-back camps with a three-day break in between. 830 01:01:51,139 --> 01:01:53,490 (gentle instrumental music) 831 01:01:53,490 --> 01:01:56,263 So I decided to stay at the camp during the break. 832 01:01:57,220 --> 01:01:59,177 Spend some time on my own 833 01:01:59,177 --> 01:02:01,653 in the place I felt most comfortable. 834 01:02:22,550 --> 01:02:23,852 That was the very bottom. 835 01:02:23,852 --> 01:02:28,320 That was three days of torment, anger, 836 01:02:28,320 --> 01:02:30,153 pain, unrelenting pain. 837 01:02:36,412 --> 01:02:39,410 I couldn't even think about the future. 838 01:02:39,410 --> 01:02:43,300 To me now, the future was gone, no longer existed. 839 01:02:43,300 --> 01:02:44,170 It wasn't there. 840 01:02:44,170 --> 01:02:48,833 Not a place to visit, not a place to think about. 841 01:02:48,833 --> 01:02:52,860 But I also found that instead of living in the moment 842 01:02:52,860 --> 01:02:55,700 I spent most of my time living in the past 843 01:02:55,700 --> 01:02:59,383 because the past is the only place that Tim was. 844 01:03:04,300 --> 01:03:07,773 Solitude had been replaced by a bit of loneliness. 845 01:03:09,160 --> 01:03:11,790 The natural world no longer provided solace 846 01:03:12,990 --> 01:03:17,757 and I had absolutely no idea where I was going to find it. 847 01:03:20,535 --> 01:03:23,285 (birds trilling) 848 01:03:25,853 --> 01:03:28,436 (somber music) 849 01:03:33,913 --> 01:03:37,740 I've always strived to be the master of my own destiny. 850 01:03:37,740 --> 01:03:40,283 Probably one of Dad's legacies. 851 01:03:44,350 --> 01:03:47,210 But I'm now beginning to wonder if 852 01:03:47,210 --> 01:03:49,003 such an idea is even possible. 853 01:03:51,600 --> 01:03:55,197 That the elements are overwhelmingly stacked against you. 854 01:03:57,923 --> 01:04:02,317 That we're nothing but flotsam on the stream of life. 855 01:04:04,870 --> 01:04:07,537 (water running) 856 01:04:28,210 --> 01:04:31,600 I remember being on the Franklin River, 857 01:04:31,600 --> 01:04:33,633 a beautiful place called the Big Fall. 858 01:04:37,670 --> 01:04:40,005 I was sitting there when I noticed an area 859 01:04:40,005 --> 01:04:43,123 of limestone bowls about a meter high. 860 01:04:46,650 --> 01:04:49,040 And I soon realized that they'd been formed 861 01:04:49,040 --> 01:04:51,935 by floodwaters spinning small rocks around 862 01:04:51,935 --> 01:04:53,923 and around on the bedrock, 863 01:04:54,770 --> 01:04:59,143 slowly but surely grinding the bowls deeper and deeper. 864 01:05:02,380 --> 01:05:04,780 A process that had been in train 865 01:05:04,780 --> 01:05:06,673 since before the arrival of Man. 866 01:05:07,926 --> 01:05:11,009 (somber piano music) 867 01:05:16,795 --> 01:05:20,370 It made me understand how completely insignificant I was 868 01:05:20,370 --> 01:05:21,970 in the broader scheme of things. 869 01:05:26,830 --> 01:05:30,010 The stark reality was that ultimately 870 01:05:30,010 --> 01:05:32,260 it all came down to a collision of events 871 01:05:32,260 --> 01:05:35,563 over which you have absolutely no control. 872 01:05:38,850 --> 01:05:41,790 How many floods rolled over the top of you in a lifetime. 873 01:05:47,635 --> 01:05:50,385 (insect buzzing) 874 01:05:56,764 --> 01:05:59,370 One of the joys of being a father is 875 01:05:59,370 --> 01:06:01,233 the handing on of knowledge, 876 01:06:02,640 --> 01:06:05,283 the guiding, the nurturing. 877 01:06:07,070 --> 01:06:08,940 Sharing in somebody's else's life 878 01:06:08,940 --> 01:06:12,820 and just observing and participating in the joys, 879 01:06:12,820 --> 01:06:14,770 and helping during the bad times. 880 01:06:14,770 --> 01:06:17,520 (waves crashing) 881 01:06:19,030 --> 01:06:20,860 That's probably the biggest loss, 882 01:06:20,860 --> 01:06:22,593 having that focus in your life. 883 01:06:23,690 --> 01:06:26,360 And trying to gain a new focus 884 01:06:27,550 --> 01:06:30,213 has taken up the last six months of my head space. 885 01:06:31,970 --> 01:06:36,830 So I've decided I out of all that to join the local board riders club 886 01:06:37,860 --> 01:06:40,360 and offer just to help out in the contests 887 01:06:40,360 --> 01:06:42,430 and the nurturing of the kids in their surfing, 888 01:06:42,430 --> 01:06:45,823 and surfing skills and even life skills. 889 01:06:49,430 --> 01:06:51,850 There's a whole gaggle of little six, seven, eight, 890 01:06:51,850 --> 01:06:53,860 10-year-old, 12-year-old kids out there 891 01:06:53,860 --> 01:06:55,420 who get a lot of joy out of hanging out 892 01:06:55,420 --> 01:06:59,090 with one of the original pioneers of the thing 893 01:06:59,090 --> 01:07:00,603 that they love doing, surfing. 894 01:07:04,572 --> 01:07:06,520 (mellow music) 895 01:07:06,520 --> 01:07:09,053 Half a century ago, surfers were tribal. 896 01:07:09,920 --> 01:07:13,173 A loud, loose, politically incorrect boys club. 897 01:07:14,190 --> 01:07:16,880 Today, there's three generations 898 01:07:16,880 --> 01:07:19,053 and a lot of them are females who rip. 899 01:07:20,850 --> 01:07:23,060 The tribe of yesteryear has evolved 900 01:07:23,060 --> 01:07:26,720 to be more aware, more inclusive. 901 01:07:26,720 --> 01:07:30,473 Still tribal but has a deeper, broader sense of community. 902 01:07:31,710 --> 01:07:34,820 Kids sharing waves with their grandparents. 903 01:07:34,820 --> 01:07:36,543 That's a beautiful legacy. 904 01:07:41,140 --> 01:07:43,320 In my time of need, I was overwhelmed 905 01:07:43,320 --> 01:07:45,120 by the way my community reached out. 906 01:07:46,000 --> 01:07:48,606 We all have a story and when I listen to others 907 01:07:48,606 --> 01:07:51,093 I begin to get my loss into perspective. 908 01:07:53,860 --> 01:07:55,340 There's always somebody worse off 909 01:07:55,340 --> 01:07:57,713 and you don't have to look far to find them. 910 01:08:01,630 --> 01:08:04,990 Ironically, those who've been dealt the cruelest of hands 911 01:08:04,990 --> 01:08:07,730 are often the ones who complain the least. 912 01:08:07,730 --> 01:08:11,193 The ones who just get on with it, give it their best shot. 913 01:08:12,440 --> 01:08:15,320 Having friends like that helped get me 914 01:08:15,320 --> 01:08:17,223 through some pretty tough times. 915 01:08:19,116 --> 01:08:22,360 (gentle piano music) 916 01:08:22,360 --> 01:08:25,380 Being alone, that was the biggest hurdle. 917 01:08:25,380 --> 01:08:27,680 That's when I was most vulnerable, 918 01:08:27,680 --> 01:08:31,660 when the emotional demons came out to play. 919 01:08:31,660 --> 01:08:33,816 But I was never really alone. 920 01:08:33,816 --> 01:08:36,363 I had Atlas, my grand-dog, 921 01:08:37,510 --> 01:08:39,163 happiest being I've ever known. 922 01:08:40,460 --> 01:08:42,820 He leads a simple life. 923 01:08:42,820 --> 01:08:46,553 As long as he's fed, sheltered and loved, he's content. 924 01:08:48,010 --> 01:08:50,860 His attitude introduced a more balanced, 925 01:08:50,860 --> 01:08:52,913 less emotional perspective, 926 01:08:54,030 --> 01:08:56,860 one that made me realize that whilst I had 927 01:08:56,860 --> 01:09:00,090 suffered a huge loss, I still had the basics. 928 01:09:00,090 --> 01:09:04,143 I was still fed, sheltered, still loved. 929 01:09:05,250 --> 01:09:08,014 That's been a significant lesson. 930 01:09:08,014 --> 01:09:12,143 Focusing on how much I had, not how much I'd lost. 931 01:09:14,561 --> 01:09:17,200 (gentle music) 932 01:09:17,200 --> 01:09:20,693 When I looked back, I've certainly had a fortunate life. 933 01:09:21,550 --> 01:09:24,830 I coulda been born in any number of hell holes. 934 01:09:24,830 --> 01:09:29,033 Instead I was born in a place most can only dream of. 935 01:09:30,070 --> 01:09:34,090 I've also been blessed with a long, meaningful marriage. 936 01:09:34,090 --> 01:09:36,793 Experienced the joy of having been a dad. 937 01:09:37,630 --> 01:09:41,503 I'm part of a caring community, surrounded by close mates. 938 01:09:42,480 --> 01:09:44,163 It's been a great journey. 939 01:09:45,670 --> 01:09:49,980 But not all journeys are plain sailing. 940 01:09:49,980 --> 01:09:54,377 Sooner or later, fate's gonna throw some rogue waves at you. 941 01:09:55,700 --> 01:09:59,950 And when they hit, you wonder how you're going to survive 942 01:09:59,950 --> 01:10:02,373 let alone cope, but you do. 943 01:10:03,290 --> 01:10:05,813 Even if it's a constant struggle, you do. 944 01:10:07,060 --> 01:10:08,720 That's the thing with rogue waves. 945 01:10:08,720 --> 01:10:10,391 They're just a part of life 946 01:10:10,391 --> 01:10:12,473 that we all have to deal with. 947 01:10:13,390 --> 01:10:16,680 It's just that for some they're eight foot, 948 01:10:16,680 --> 01:10:18,443 for others they're 80. 949 01:10:19,683 --> 01:10:22,913 The sobering thought is, there's more out there. 950 01:10:24,039 --> 01:10:25,113 They're not done yet. 951 01:10:34,392 --> 01:10:36,360 I often wonder how different my life 952 01:10:36,360 --> 01:10:38,495 would have been if 60 years ago 953 01:10:38,495 --> 01:10:42,983 I hadn't made that simple decision to see a surf movie. 954 01:10:44,000 --> 01:10:46,673 Yet another question with no answer. 955 01:10:48,641 --> 01:10:53,641 However, if I had my time over, with one obvious exception, 956 01:10:54,640 --> 01:10:56,570 I wouldn't change a thing. 957 01:10:56,570 --> 01:10:59,083 I mean, what'd be the point? 958 01:10:59,936 --> 01:11:01,586 I never wanted to grow up anyway. 959 01:11:02,600 --> 01:11:03,897 Not about to start now. 960 01:11:41,899 --> 01:11:45,566 (gentle instrumental music) 69733

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