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ELIZA DUSHKU: Dear Albania,
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I'm Eliza Dushku,
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an Albanian-Danish-American from Boston.
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I've always been curious about you
and fascinated by your mystery.
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My grandparents immigrated to America
by boat in the 1930s.
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I never knew these grandparents.
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They passed away before I was born.
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I never had strong feelings
of attachment to you...
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...until now.
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Growing up, I wasn't the only one
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who didn't know very much
about this once secluded country.
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Before its communist government
fell in 1991,
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Albania was arguably
the most isolated country in Europe.
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Now, the borders are open
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and the people are eager to welcome those
who for so long were strangers.
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Though only an hour by plane
from Italy and Greece,
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much of Albania remains virtually
untouched by the masses.
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From the sapphire beaches
of the Ionian coast
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and the ancient settlements of Apollonia,
Berat and Butrint
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to the energetic capital city Tirana,
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Albania offers a lot
for the curious traveler.
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Off the grid, the Albanian Alps
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preserve the fiercely independent
spirit of the mountains.
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It's a place with controversial stories
of vigilante justice,
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but also, where villagers
warmly invite travelers into their homes.
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It's a visit from a man
named Fadil Berisha
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that inspires my Albanian pilgrimage.
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Fadil is not only
a successful photographer,
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he's also the ultimate
Albanian ambassador,
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uniting artists, singers and talents
throughout the world
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who share Albanian heritage,
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urging us to discover our roots.
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Fadil told me the land of my grandparents
was calling for me.
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And also, that Albanians considered me
something of a hometown hero,
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along with the likes of Jim Belushi,
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and Mother Teresa.
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It was time for me
to dig deeper into my past.
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So I gather my boys,
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including my brother Nate...
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It doesn't get better than this.
I'm serious.
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...and my friends, Rick...
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-(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
-Yeah.
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Say it with a little flair.
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
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Little European. Nice.
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...Blerim...
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(SPEAKS ALBANIAN)
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-What does that mean?
-I love Albania.
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ELIZA: Ah. (SPEAKS ALBANIAN)
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...and Fadil.
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And we set out to canvass the country
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from the coastlines to the highlands,
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to meet the people
and to explore this jewel of the Balkans.
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We're visiting 15 Albanian cities
in four different countries.
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First stop, Tirana,
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the capital of Albania,
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home to Skanderbeg Square,
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the city's main plaza named after
the 15th century lord, Skanderbeg.
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Since 1991,
Tirana has been in transformation.
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When we arrive,
Skanderbeg Square is under construction
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and Mayor Lulzim Basha
shows me around the municipal buildings.
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They say this is
a boulevard without a city.
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ELIZA: Mmm.
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But it became a city
with a beautiful boulevard.
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So it's a lesson from, 80, 90 years ago.
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Soon to be even more beautiful.
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And a lesson we should incorporate
in planning and building
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Tirana of the 21st century.
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So this is the, uh, Clock Tower,
the symbol of the city.
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It was recently restored
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and Sulejman led the work for restoration.
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-(GREETING IN ALBANIAN)
-Nice to meet you.
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SULEJMAN: The clock tower of Tirana
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was built in the first years
of 19th century,
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1820.
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ELIZA: I brushed up on my Albanian history
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starting with our ancestors,
the Illyrians.
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LULZIM: Albanians are very ancient people.
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More than 3,000 years ago we have
the first traces of Illyrian civilization.
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-Uh, pre-Roman civilization...
-ELIZA: Mmm-hmm.
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...which developed side to side
with the Hellenic civilization.
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You know, we're surrounded
by Italy and Greece
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and everybody knows these places.
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Why has Albania had such a history
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of not being recognized
by the rest of the world?
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It's true. Albania and Albanians
have been at the center
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of European history
from the very beginning.
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But, uh, as history developed,
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the nation remained an orphan nation
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and entangled in the big game
of powers and empires
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-that came and went.
-Yeah.
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LULZIM: Rome and Constantinople.
Byzantium.
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Later, the Ottoman empire.
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And Albanians gave so much
to these civilizations.
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-And also took from them.
-Mmm-hmm.
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The big empires were responsible
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for shading Albania away
from the eyes of the rest of the world.
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I mean, you said earlier
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Albania has been an orphan country.
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Indeed. Years and centuries of isolation
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has left a mark on our history.
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But it never harmed Albanian's
unique, uh, hospitality.
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Hospitality is the quintessential virtue
of Albanians.
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Sold.
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ELIZA: My grandfather,
on the eve of the First World War,
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found his way to Boston.
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Over the years, he kept in touch with
his family in Albania through letters.
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And my father and uncles held on
to the addresses of these relatives
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after he passed away.
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In 1991, when the borders of Albania
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were open to travelers
for the first time in 45 years,
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our father went to visit.
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It was a moving experience,
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both gratifying and shocking
at the same time.
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In Tirana,
I got to meet for the first time,
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my loving uncle, Anesti Dushku,
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and his wonderful family.
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I'll never forget the look
of surprise and joy
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when he answered my knock on their door.
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Even though I had written to them
months earlier,
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they had not received my letter
and were not expecting me.
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Looking at Anesti
standing at the open door
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in a T-shirt and pajama bottoms
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was as if I had aroused my own father.
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The resemblances were remarkable
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and I was much taken by surprise.
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ELIZA: Anesti passed away the next year
and we lost touch.
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Hopefully, his daughter Elvira
and her family
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still live in Tirana.
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All we have are two old addresses
and a disconnected telephone number.
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So our friend Agest, a local,
helps us track them down.
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(DOORBELL RINGING)
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Our first attempt to ring a bell.
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We came to the blind road, number 101,
but the numbers have changed.
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Some of them are marked on the wall,
but those are the old numbers
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and now there are new numbers,
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and we rang a bell and a little old lady
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said that she didn't recognize the name
and they weren't here.
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(SPEAKS ALBANIAN)
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Do you know the Progri family?
Elvira Progri?
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(AGEST SPEAKING ENGLISH)
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She said their father worked
with Elvira's husband.
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They used to work together
for a long time.
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Can you just wait for a second?
I'll ask her now for sure where it is.
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We have a lead.
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(AGEST SPEAKING)
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The house where they lived,
now it's a tall building.
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(INDISTINCT)
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(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
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Does Fillota Progri live here?
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His son lives here, but he lives
in another building in a high rise.
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Is his son in?
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Flori, this boy is looking for you.
Here, talk to him...
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My name is Agest Kopellaj.
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I have come with Eliza Dushku.
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I believe you are relatives.
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We are searching for your family,
Fillota and Elvira,
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but as luck would have it,
we found you.
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(MAN ON INTERCOM IN ALBANIAN)
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Oh my God, are you kidding me?
You are downstairs right now?
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ELIZA: We find our second cousin Florian,
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Anesti's grandson.
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Because I didn't know there is someone...
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ELIZA: He calls his sister Neli,
and their mother Elvira.
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(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
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Elvira shares with us
the story of how her father Anesti
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played matchmaker to our grandparents,
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00:09:03,800 --> 00:09:07,433
George and Villermini,
from over 4,000 miles away.
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(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
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(IN ENGLISH) The uncle Anesti now
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was urging
your grandfather to get married.
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And the deal was not to just get married,
but get married to an Albanian.
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Thank you. Ah.
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NELI: To get Albanian wife.
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ELIZA: This is kind of strange.
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Someone who had a girl
that wanted to be married,
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they would make beautiful picture of her
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and give it to many people.
They would present it.
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ELIZA: Oh, wow.
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So you pick a bride.
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Yeah. Kind of.
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So George picked our grandmother.
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I don't know how many photographs
were presented to him, but...
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(ALL LAUGH)
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They first met through photographs
and then...
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-She was in Korça?
-NELI: She was in Korça.
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She comes from good family...
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So that's when George came back
to Albania for Villermini.
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NELI: She was the most beautiful girl
of the house when she was raised.
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FLORIAN: He liked her very much.
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And for a short time,
they lived in Korça in the same house
191
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where Vanja and Aleksandra and Anesti...
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Since that time they didn't come back.
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00:10:07,633 --> 00:10:10,967
ELIZA: We never knew that our grandparents
met via the postal service.
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They married in their hometown of Korça,
195
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moved to the US together in the 1930s
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and never returned to Albania again.
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In need of a coffee, I meet up
with Blerim in an area called The Block.
198
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Why "Block" because
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00:10:33,367 --> 00:10:34,533
if you see left from you,
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this building was from leader from Albania
in communist time,
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Enver Hoxha.
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Everything was close.
203
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In this area, from 1945 till, uh, 1991,
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we have new buildings, new bars
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and parties, I will show you
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00:10:57,433 --> 00:10:59,033
-maybe another time.
-Yeah.
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00:11:00,500 --> 00:11:03,000
So, where are we gonna start out
on this road trip?
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00:11:03,067 --> 00:11:04,500
The Albanian road trip?
209
00:11:04,933 --> 00:11:07,400
What do you hope that we experience?
210
00:11:07,667 --> 00:11:09,567
We have beautiful places.
211
00:11:09,900 --> 00:11:11,967
I keep hearing so much
about how beautiful the beaches are.
212
00:11:12,033 --> 00:11:13,533
What's your favorite beach?
213
00:11:13,833 --> 00:11:15,033
I love Durres for example.
214
00:11:15,233 --> 00:11:18,233
Half an hour. It's very close to Tirana.
215
00:11:18,300 --> 00:11:20,033
-So you can go in the morning...
-Right.
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00:11:20,100 --> 00:11:21,233
...enjoy the sun,
217
00:11:21,567 --> 00:11:25,100
5:00, back to Tirana, have a shower.
Let's go and have fun.
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00:11:25,167 --> 00:11:26,633
Everybody moves fast in today's world.
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00:11:27,933 --> 00:11:32,267
EDI RAMA: We succeeded
to go beyond the gray, uh,
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00:11:32,567 --> 00:11:36,367
dusty curtain
that was practically blinding
221
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the people and making them, uh,
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be totally indifferent towards
the community and, uh, society.
223
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ELIZA: I head out to go shopping
224
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at an Italian department store
called Coin,
225
00:11:51,400 --> 00:11:56,300
which opened in 2010
and carries brands like Valentino,
226
00:11:56,367 --> 00:12:00,333
Guess and Albanian designer Mirela Nurçe.
227
00:12:02,133 --> 00:12:05,067
Mirela is kind enough
to show me some of her collection.
228
00:12:05,133 --> 00:12:06,267
Will you show me some stuff?
229
00:12:06,333 --> 00:12:08,700
-Will you maybe help me find a coat today?
-Yes.
230
00:12:09,800 --> 00:12:10,800
(CHUCKLES)
231
00:12:12,233 --> 00:12:13,300
Love it.
232
00:12:13,367 --> 00:12:14,367
(SPEAKS ALBANIAN)
233
00:12:14,433 --> 00:12:15,533
Thank you.
234
00:12:15,600 --> 00:12:17,033
I love you.
235
00:12:17,100 --> 00:12:18,367
(LAUGHS)
236
00:12:20,533 --> 00:12:25,400
ELIZA: Nate found out that there was
a Dushku in the KF Tirana football team.
237
00:12:25,467 --> 00:12:26,900
So we crashed their practice.
238
00:12:26,967 --> 00:12:28,000
ELIZA: What's your name?
239
00:12:29,633 --> 00:12:30,633
Eliza.
240
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I see, I feel a resemblance. Yeah.
241
00:12:34,733 --> 00:12:36,733
Oh, my gosh. I can't even believe this.
242
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I've never met
any other Dushkus in the world
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that weren't my uncles.
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00:12:40,567 --> 00:12:42,533
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
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WOMAN: (IN ENGLISH)
He comes in America often,
246
00:12:44,300 --> 00:12:46,367
but he hasn't seen you there, he says.
247
00:12:47,033 --> 00:12:48,900
Four-one-one. Information. Call.
248
00:12:48,967 --> 00:12:51,267
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
249
00:12:52,733 --> 00:12:54,467
He wants to know
if you can play with them.
250
00:12:54,533 --> 00:12:55,567
-Soccer.
-Absolutely.
251
00:12:59,967 --> 00:13:01,067
ELIZA: Pass, pass.
252
00:13:04,067 --> 00:13:05,067
(ELIZA GIGGLING)
253
00:13:06,333 --> 00:13:07,333
(ELIZA CHEERS)
254
00:13:07,567 --> 00:13:09,233
(PEOPLE CLAPPING)
255
00:13:10,867 --> 00:13:13,800
ELIZA: Soccer has long been a pastime
of Albanians.
256
00:13:13,867 --> 00:13:17,667
And during the time of communism,
soccer players were some of the very few
257
00:13:17,967 --> 00:13:20,200
who were permitted to travel
outside the country.
258
00:13:20,600 --> 00:13:24,533
Even today, as Lorik Cana,
captain of the Albanian national team
259
00:13:24,600 --> 00:13:25,900
explained to me,
260
00:13:25,967 --> 00:13:29,767
soccer is still a platform
for connecting Albanians around the globe.
261
00:13:30,600 --> 00:13:34,033
I think sport, like acting or modelling
262
00:13:34,100 --> 00:13:36,867
or something to do with art,
263
00:13:36,933 --> 00:13:39,633
when you wanna represent your country
or the nation you come from,
264
00:13:39,967 --> 00:13:42,700
it's an amazing ambassador of your country
265
00:13:42,767 --> 00:13:45,033
and it's maybe a small thing
for some people,
266
00:13:45,100 --> 00:13:46,933
but for Albanians it means a lot.
267
00:13:47,000 --> 00:13:50,167
It means that they have their own voice
and people can listen.
268
00:13:50,800 --> 00:13:52,367
And I try, wherever I play,
269
00:13:52,433 --> 00:13:55,967
and I play in Lazio in Rome,
to give a great image of our country.
270
00:13:56,333 --> 00:13:58,300
-ELIZA: Absolutely.
-I have some tattoo.
271
00:13:58,367 --> 00:14:00,300
-You have an eagle?
-Yeah.
272
00:14:00,367 --> 00:14:01,933
ELIZA: That's beautiful.
273
00:14:02,333 --> 00:14:06,033
-And, uh, it writes "Illyria" down here.
-Uh-huh.
274
00:14:06,100 --> 00:14:09,667
And Illyria is the name
of our ancestors, the Illyrians.
275
00:14:09,733 --> 00:14:13,367
Think that we deserve to tell people
about what we were, what we are
276
00:14:13,433 --> 00:14:16,067
and what we can give
to the rest of the world.
277
00:14:16,133 --> 00:14:18,333
We are a small nation,
but we are proud to be Albanian
278
00:14:18,400 --> 00:14:20,200
and we don't wanna be the best,
279
00:14:20,267 --> 00:14:22,433
but, uh, we just wanna find our place.
280
00:14:23,733 --> 00:14:26,833
ELIZA: It's time to hit the road
for nearby Kruja.
281
00:14:29,167 --> 00:14:32,067
Just like my dad...
(BOSTON ACCENT) I love a good bargain.
282
00:14:32,133 --> 00:14:33,767
(NORMAL ACCENT)
So I stop by the outdoor bazaar
283
00:14:33,833 --> 00:14:35,633
to look for some souvenirs.
284
00:14:35,867 --> 00:14:37,600
Who doesn't love a good tchotchke?
285
00:14:39,333 --> 00:14:42,300
These rugs... Ah, she's making
the rugs in there.
286
00:14:42,367 --> 00:14:43,367
Wow.
287
00:14:44,533 --> 00:14:45,733
Sali Berisha.
288
00:14:45,800 --> 00:14:47,567
It's present for you, miss.
It is nice to meet with you.
289
00:14:47,633 --> 00:14:50,733
I have my own Sali Berisha
to drink coffee out of.
290
00:14:51,167 --> 00:14:53,533
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
291
00:14:55,100 --> 00:14:57,400
We head up the hill to Kruja Castle.
292
00:14:58,267 --> 00:15:00,133
Home of the Skanderbeg museum
293
00:15:00,200 --> 00:15:03,667
dedicated to Albania's revered
national hero.
294
00:15:03,833 --> 00:15:07,367
In the 1400s, the Ottomans ruled
over the Albanian people.
295
00:15:07,700 --> 00:15:10,033
Through sheer force of will, Skanderbeg,
296
00:15:10,100 --> 00:15:13,133
an Albanian warrior
serving in the Ottoman army,
297
00:15:13,200 --> 00:15:16,433
secretly organized 300 Albanian soldiers
298
00:15:16,500 --> 00:15:18,333
and seized the castle at Kruja.
299
00:15:18,933 --> 00:15:22,367
Skanderbeg declared himself
the avenger of the Albanians
300
00:15:22,433 --> 00:15:25,400
and raised the red flag
with the double-headed eagle.
301
00:15:26,133 --> 00:15:28,733
He went on to defend his people
against the Ottomans
302
00:15:28,800 --> 00:15:30,433
for a quarter of a century,
303
00:15:30,500 --> 00:15:33,733
creating the first unified
Albanian nation.
304
00:15:34,433 --> 00:15:37,433
Though after his death,
the land would again fall to the Ottomans,
305
00:15:37,500 --> 00:15:41,033
Skanderbeg is the ultimate founding father
of Albania.
306
00:15:41,767 --> 00:15:44,067
It would be 444 years
307
00:15:44,133 --> 00:15:46,800
until Albania once again
declared its independence
308
00:15:46,867 --> 00:15:49,300
as a modern republic in 1912.
309
00:15:49,767 --> 00:15:51,800
-(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
-WOMAN: (IN ENGLISH) As you can see,
310
00:15:51,867 --> 00:15:54,667
these are the original walls
of the castle.
311
00:15:56,600 --> 00:15:59,233
Over there is Tirana, Durres,
312
00:15:59,300 --> 00:16:00,500
and Montenegro.
313
00:16:02,467 --> 00:16:04,600
ELIZA: The Ottomans
weren't the only great empire
314
00:16:04,667 --> 00:16:06,867
to leave their mark on Albania.
315
00:16:06,933 --> 00:16:10,200
The Greeks and Romans also influenced
many of the great structures
316
00:16:10,267 --> 00:16:13,700
and amphitheaters as we see here
in Apollonia,
317
00:16:13,767 --> 00:16:15,400
which thrived in the Roman period
318
00:16:15,467 --> 00:16:18,233
as a respected center
of philosophy and learning
319
00:16:18,333 --> 00:16:21,367
and was named in honor
of the sun god, Apollo.
320
00:16:27,733 --> 00:16:28,733
This is Lule.
321
00:16:29,100 --> 00:16:32,033
She lives in the courtyard
surrounding Santa Maria Church.
322
00:16:32,600 --> 00:16:36,167
According to Fadil, she'll give us a tour
if we buy her a steak.
323
00:16:43,533 --> 00:16:48,200
Our guide and translator, Ani,
gives us a tour of the ancient city.
324
00:16:49,167 --> 00:16:51,533
ANI: This is Apollo, the sun god.
325
00:16:51,600 --> 00:16:55,633
Here he represents a god
that protects the animals and arts.
326
00:16:57,500 --> 00:17:00,100
See, all the pictures in the frescoes,
they don't have their eyes.
327
00:17:00,900 --> 00:17:02,833
ELIZA: Why?
ANI: It's superstition.
328
00:17:02,900 --> 00:17:07,733
The people from this region believed
that if they take the paint from the eyes,
329
00:17:07,800 --> 00:17:10,133
put it in water and drink it,
it's good for them.
330
00:17:10,200 --> 00:17:14,500
They believed the eyes of the saints
could help them get over their problems.
331
00:17:17,100 --> 00:17:19,000
NATE: This is something else.
332
00:17:19,067 --> 00:17:20,433
ANI: Yeah. Magnificent.
333
00:17:20,500 --> 00:17:22,533
Apollonia was quite important
334
00:17:22,600 --> 00:17:25,867
but even Augustus gave a special status
to this city,
335
00:17:25,933 --> 00:17:27,133
calling it a free city.
336
00:17:27,200 --> 00:17:28,967
They didn't have to pay tax to Rome.
337
00:17:30,200 --> 00:17:32,367
Do a lot of brides come up here?
338
00:17:32,433 --> 00:17:33,933
ANI: Yeah. It's tradition.
339
00:17:34,067 --> 00:17:35,700
I wanna be an Albanian bride. (LAUGHS)
340
00:17:35,767 --> 00:17:37,700
ANI: Something they can remember
for the rest of their lives.
341
00:17:38,600 --> 00:17:42,900
ELIZA: Apparently, Apollonia
is the destination for wedding photos.
342
00:17:44,533 --> 00:17:45,767
NATE: And how many brides did you see?
343
00:17:45,833 --> 00:17:47,333
This is our sixth.
344
00:17:52,567 --> 00:17:55,133
From the sun god to the heavenly beaches,
345
00:17:55,200 --> 00:17:58,067
Albania is a vacationer's paradise.
346
00:17:59,100 --> 00:18:03,067
Its mix of hospitality,
historical relics and scenic beauty
347
00:18:03,133 --> 00:18:04,267
have earned it the title
348
00:18:04,333 --> 00:18:07,333
of Lonely Planet's
number one travel destination.
349
00:18:07,900 --> 00:18:09,733
We hit the Albanian Riviera
350
00:18:09,800 --> 00:18:12,400
which stretches from Vlora to Saranda.
351
00:18:22,167 --> 00:18:24,733
We got Italy over there,
Greece over there...
352
00:18:25,833 --> 00:18:26,933
And the sun.
353
00:18:33,033 --> 00:18:37,000
And then Fadil grabs his camera
for an impromptu photo shoot.
354
00:18:37,767 --> 00:18:39,267
-FADIL: Beautiful.
-(SHUTTER CLICKING)
355
00:18:39,967 --> 00:18:41,500
You look gorgeous.
356
00:18:42,000 --> 00:18:43,367
This side. One second, one second.
357
00:18:45,300 --> 00:18:46,400
Love that.
358
00:18:48,867 --> 00:18:51,200
FADIL: Perfect. Move the hair. Yeah.
359
00:18:55,567 --> 00:18:56,733
(LAUGHS)
360
00:19:01,333 --> 00:19:03,467
Perfect.
That's nice, that's nice, that's nice.
361
00:19:04,100 --> 00:19:05,167
Gorgeous.
362
00:19:07,367 --> 00:19:10,300
ELIZA: Back on the road,
we make our way out of Vlora
363
00:19:10,367 --> 00:19:13,267
and climb high into the Llogara Pass.
364
00:19:13,800 --> 00:19:15,200
The winding alpine road
365
00:19:15,267 --> 00:19:18,800
is one of the most panoramic routes
of the Ionian coast,
366
00:19:18,867 --> 00:19:21,600
where one can go hiking
or even paragliding.
367
00:19:22,167 --> 00:19:23,800
Air currents running through the pass
368
00:19:23,867 --> 00:19:26,700
have caused certain trees
to bend and contort.
369
00:19:27,233 --> 00:19:30,233
Like the Pisha e Flamurit,
or Flag Pine.
370
00:19:31,367 --> 00:19:34,300
We see a bunch of beehives
by the side of the road
371
00:19:34,367 --> 00:19:35,967
and decide to take a pit stop.
372
00:19:36,433 --> 00:19:37,500
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
373
00:19:37,567 --> 00:19:39,600
This is fresh honey.
374
00:19:39,933 --> 00:19:42,367
(IN ENGLISH) Is beekeeping
an Albanian tradition?
375
00:19:42,733 --> 00:19:43,733
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
376
00:19:43,800 --> 00:19:47,733
It's been passed on through
the family for many years.
377
00:19:49,100 --> 00:19:50,800
FADIL: (IN ENGLISH)
Albanian honey, watch out.
378
00:19:50,867 --> 00:19:53,000
ELIZA: You want some honey, honey?
FADIL: Oh, honey, honey, bunny.
379
00:19:57,133 --> 00:19:58,733
FADIL: What's it taste like? Alcohol?
380
00:19:59,400 --> 00:20:01,067
-It does taste like alcohol a little bit.
-Vodka?
381
00:20:01,133 --> 00:20:02,133
And this?
382
00:20:02,200 --> 00:20:03,367
Propolis.
383
00:20:03,533 --> 00:20:05,133
ELIZA: Propolis? Bee propolis.
384
00:20:05,900 --> 00:20:07,700
FADIL: So you know about that?
How come you know about that?
385
00:20:07,767 --> 00:20:10,267
ELIZA: You can get it
in protein shakes in LA.
386
00:20:16,133 --> 00:20:17,133
Whoa!
387
00:20:17,200 --> 00:20:18,633
-What is it like?
-It's intense.
388
00:20:18,700 --> 00:20:20,533
It made my whole tongue tingle.
389
00:20:20,600 --> 00:20:22,000
-Really?
-Taste it.
390
00:20:22,600 --> 00:20:25,333
(CHUCKLES) That's some potent propolis
right there.
391
00:20:26,133 --> 00:20:28,267
How you do it? (LAUGHS)
392
00:20:28,333 --> 00:20:30,967
No, I think really, it has a bitterness.
393
00:20:31,433 --> 00:20:33,133
I'll take one. You got any money, honey?
394
00:20:33,200 --> 00:20:34,200
-FADIL: Yeah, honey.
-(ELIZA CHUCKLES)
395
00:20:35,600 --> 00:20:37,833
ELIZA: Fresh local food is easy to find.
396
00:20:39,067 --> 00:20:42,833
Albania shares a traditional
Mediterranean diet with its neighbors.
397
00:20:45,067 --> 00:20:49,567
You'll often find
that lamb, fish, cheese, tomatoes,
398
00:20:49,633 --> 00:20:53,067
yogurt, olives, honey, fruit
and other delights
399
00:20:53,133 --> 00:20:56,100
make up much
of what fills the Albanian table.
400
00:20:58,633 --> 00:21:02,900
We wind back down to the coast
and nestle into the village of Dhërmi.
401
00:21:05,033 --> 00:21:07,433
(UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYING)
402
00:21:18,400 --> 00:21:22,000
After our jam session,
it was time for another adventure.
403
00:21:23,433 --> 00:21:26,900
Fadil hires a boat
and we zip out onto the Ionian sea
404
00:21:27,133 --> 00:21:29,733
where concrete bunkers
speckle the coastline
405
00:21:29,800 --> 00:21:32,933
all built during the communist reign
of Enver Hoxha
406
00:21:33,000 --> 00:21:36,567
in preparation for a foreign invasion
that never happened.
407
00:21:39,800 --> 00:21:42,133
We pull into Gramata Bay,
408
00:21:42,200 --> 00:21:45,767
a pirate cove where ships have anchored
since antiquity.
409
00:21:51,467 --> 00:21:54,567
Names and initials
stamped on the steep rock faces
410
00:21:54,633 --> 00:21:57,300
date back to the 4th century BC,
411
00:21:57,367 --> 00:22:01,633
and include those of prominent historical
figures such as Mark Anthony.
412
00:22:08,333 --> 00:22:13,233
EDI: If you watch,
uh, all the Mediterranean coast,
413
00:22:14,500 --> 00:22:17,100
the Albanian side is still more intact
414
00:22:17,167 --> 00:22:22,533
and there is still a very high potential
of developing in a reasonable way.
415
00:22:22,600 --> 00:22:25,667
Although it's not easy
because the pressure
416
00:22:25,733 --> 00:22:28,100
-of interest is very strong.
-ELIZA: Sure.
417
00:22:28,467 --> 00:22:31,933
But I think we can do something special,
418
00:22:32,000 --> 00:22:35,767
uh, if we will be, uh, all
419
00:22:35,833 --> 00:22:39,500
committed to develop by protecting.
420
00:22:40,200 --> 00:22:43,300
ELIZA: At the southern border
lie the ruins of Butrint.
421
00:22:44,267 --> 00:22:46,800
An important settlement
in Hellenistic times,
422
00:22:46,867 --> 00:22:49,167
the peninsular city was a sanctuary
423
00:22:49,233 --> 00:22:52,200
praising the Greek god of medicine,
Asclepius.
424
00:22:55,433 --> 00:22:58,933
ANI: This is the most important place
in the ancient city, the temple.
425
00:22:59,667 --> 00:23:02,733
These are legal documents
written in stone.
426
00:23:02,867 --> 00:23:06,233
When they would set a slave free,
they would write it on stone.
427
00:23:06,300 --> 00:23:07,500
He would be free forever.
428
00:23:07,700 --> 00:23:09,633
It was a gift to the gods.
429
00:23:10,600 --> 00:23:12,033
ANI: You're gonna like this.
ELIZA: Ah.
430
00:23:12,100 --> 00:23:15,800
This is the theater
built in the 3rd century BC.
431
00:23:15,967 --> 00:23:20,067
The first line of stones, you see,
they have like, wider steps.
432
00:23:20,133 --> 00:23:22,300
-ELIZA: Mmm-hmm.
-The important people would sit there.
433
00:23:22,433 --> 00:23:24,667
Like, shows that lasted
for three or four hours...
434
00:23:24,733 --> 00:23:26,667
-Maybe days.
-Days... (CHUCKLES)
435
00:23:26,733 --> 00:23:29,333
Look at the dramatic faces in the pillar.
436
00:23:29,400 --> 00:23:30,633
NATE: This is where it all began.
437
00:23:30,700 --> 00:23:32,967
This is where my roots must've come from.
438
00:23:33,033 --> 00:23:34,500
(CHUCKLES) The drama.
439
00:23:34,667 --> 00:23:35,867
(MOCK PANTING)
440
00:23:36,033 --> 00:23:37,733
(ELIZA CHUCKLES)
441
00:23:37,800 --> 00:23:39,267
Why you always got to play
the village idiot?
442
00:23:39,333 --> 00:23:41,233
(LAUGHS)
443
00:23:43,433 --> 00:23:44,833
This is the beginnings.
444
00:23:45,500 --> 00:23:46,700
Welcome.
445
00:23:52,433 --> 00:23:55,300
ELIZA: During the Roman age,
a basilica was built.
446
00:23:56,467 --> 00:23:58,733
The whole floor of the cathedral
447
00:23:58,800 --> 00:24:01,267
was covered by a beautiful mosaic.
448
00:24:02,367 --> 00:24:04,667
A little remain, so we can appreciate it.
449
00:24:04,733 --> 00:24:06,367
(ELIZA GASPS SOFTLY)
450
00:24:07,733 --> 00:24:10,667
And you see the circles,
they're continuous.
451
00:24:10,733 --> 00:24:13,133
They represent eternity. They never end.
452
00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:15,700
ELIZA: Yeah. What a treasure over here.
453
00:24:18,833 --> 00:24:21,367
I feel something here.
454
00:24:21,433 --> 00:24:24,200
Like the old, old heartbeat
of the country.
455
00:24:33,400 --> 00:24:36,800
Butrint and Apollonia
were abandoned in the Middle Ages
456
00:24:36,867 --> 00:24:39,400
after raids, earthquakes and flooding.
457
00:24:41,000 --> 00:24:45,867
But one city in Albania has been
continuously occupied for generations,
458
00:24:45,933 --> 00:24:47,000
Berat.
459
00:24:54,433 --> 00:24:56,900
Situated in central Albania,
460
00:24:56,967 --> 00:24:59,800
it became an important citadel
in the Middle Ages
461
00:24:59,867 --> 00:25:02,633
and remains a city
filled with inhabitants today.
462
00:25:04,400 --> 00:25:07,933
As a result, its structures
are remarkably well-maintained,
463
00:25:08,000 --> 00:25:11,633
and the entire city is considered
a UNESCO world heritage site.
464
00:25:13,800 --> 00:25:17,633
Many people live in apartments
sectioned off within the ancient bulwark.
465
00:25:18,400 --> 00:25:23,067
In other words, some of Berat's apartments
are over 1,500 years old.
466
00:25:25,133 --> 00:25:28,767
And just around the corner here,
we will reach the Cathedral of St. Mary.
467
00:25:30,533 --> 00:25:33,067
The masterpiece here is the konostas.
468
00:25:33,567 --> 00:25:36,800
Beautiful, hand-carved walnut
469
00:25:36,867 --> 00:25:39,267
woods, gold-plated.
470
00:25:39,333 --> 00:25:42,233
The icons are the master work of Onufri,
471
00:25:43,100 --> 00:25:45,100
the famous Albanian painter.
472
00:25:45,267 --> 00:25:48,200
The konostas has double-headed eagle
in the center
473
00:25:48,267 --> 00:25:52,567
representing Byzant and Rome.
The unification of the two empires.
474
00:25:52,633 --> 00:25:54,200
One empire, two heads.
475
00:25:54,533 --> 00:25:57,600
NATE: We've heard many explanations
about the double-headed eagle.
476
00:25:57,667 --> 00:26:00,333
Church and State, east and west,
477
00:26:00,400 --> 00:26:04,900
a myth about a bird dying
and then another bird coming to rescue it.
478
00:26:04,967 --> 00:26:07,367
-They're all true. (CHUCKLES)
-NATE: All true?
479
00:26:07,767 --> 00:26:09,633
ELIZA: We wander the areas
around the castle
480
00:26:09,700 --> 00:26:13,033
and see how life still courses
through the old walled city.
481
00:26:13,600 --> 00:26:15,500
He's got some fresh figs.
Would you like to try them?
482
00:26:15,567 --> 00:26:16,667
Ooh.
483
00:26:16,733 --> 00:26:18,067
-ANI: They're very sweet.
-(ELIZA SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
484
00:26:18,133 --> 00:26:19,200
Look at that.
485
00:26:19,267 --> 00:26:22,400
These are figs from the castle.
He just picked them up, uh,
486
00:26:22,467 --> 00:26:23,700
minutes ago or something.
487
00:26:23,767 --> 00:26:25,533
Oh, my gosh. That is the sweetest...
488
00:26:25,600 --> 00:26:26,933
-Wow.
-They're very sweet.
489
00:26:28,067 --> 00:26:29,067
...thing ever.
490
00:26:30,100 --> 00:26:31,433
Mmm.
491
00:26:33,367 --> 00:26:35,367
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
492
00:26:35,667 --> 00:26:36,667
Bye.
493
00:26:37,233 --> 00:26:38,233
What are they playing?
494
00:26:38,733 --> 00:26:40,600
ANI: They're playing dominoes.
ELIZA: Dominoes.
495
00:26:42,500 --> 00:26:46,433
People still live in the castle
for many generations now
496
00:26:46,500 --> 00:26:48,700
and they're very well-known
for their hospitality.
497
00:26:48,767 --> 00:26:50,533
Like, inside these doors?
498
00:26:50,600 --> 00:26:51,600
We could try.
499
00:26:51,667 --> 00:26:53,633
If we knock on the door,
I'm sure somebody will answer.
500
00:26:56,200 --> 00:26:57,500
(GREETING IN ALBANIAN)
501
00:26:57,567 --> 00:26:58,933
Eliza Dushku.
502
00:26:59,800 --> 00:27:00,900
(SPEAKING ENGLISH)
503
00:27:00,967 --> 00:27:02,800
-I'm Nate. Nice to meet you.
-My brother.
504
00:27:03,833 --> 00:27:05,300
ELIZA: Do you live here with family?
505
00:27:05,933 --> 00:27:07,833
(ANI SPEAKS IN ALBANIAN)
506
00:27:07,900 --> 00:27:10,733
ANI: She said that they've been here
since 1930s.
507
00:27:10,800 --> 00:27:12,267
Her husband was a tailor.
508
00:27:13,000 --> 00:27:15,167
NATE: Could you ask her
if we could take her portrait?
509
00:27:15,333 --> 00:27:17,933
(ANI SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
510
00:27:18,000 --> 00:27:19,433
ANI: Yes, you could.
ELIZA: You're beautiful.
511
00:27:19,500 --> 00:27:20,800
You're so beautiful.
512
00:27:20,867 --> 00:27:21,867
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
513
00:27:21,933 --> 00:27:23,433
ANI: (IN ENGLISH)
Actually, you're not the first people
514
00:27:23,500 --> 00:27:25,033
that want her photograph.
515
00:27:26,833 --> 00:27:27,867
(SHUTTER CLICKS)
516
00:27:29,500 --> 00:27:30,533
(SHUTTER CLICKS)
517
00:27:31,233 --> 00:27:34,367
Are you, uh, engaged or married
or anything like that?
518
00:27:34,433 --> 00:27:37,200
I have a boyfriend.
He comes to town on Friday.
519
00:27:37,267 --> 00:27:39,300
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
520
00:27:40,633 --> 00:27:42,167
(LAUGHS)
521
00:27:42,233 --> 00:27:44,467
-Well, get it over with.
-(LAUGHS)
522
00:27:45,633 --> 00:27:49,400
What's the secret to having
a successful and long marriage?
523
00:27:49,467 --> 00:27:52,033
ANI: (TRANSLATING) One piece of advice
my mother gave me, she said,
524
00:27:52,100 --> 00:27:54,933
"When your husband comes home,
525
00:27:55,000 --> 00:27:56,400
"better lunch be ready."
526
00:27:56,633 --> 00:27:58,500
-(ELIZA LAUGHS)
-You don't wanna start then.
527
00:27:58,567 --> 00:28:00,967
NATE: Better lunch be ready?
ELIZA: Okay.
528
00:28:01,033 --> 00:28:02,100
I won't tell my boyfriend.
529
00:28:02,167 --> 00:28:03,467
(LAUGHS)
530
00:28:04,767 --> 00:28:06,900
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
531
00:28:13,133 --> 00:28:16,233
ELIZA: Korça,
the birthplace of our ancestors.
532
00:28:20,033 --> 00:28:23,333
The sun shines a beautiful light
on a quaint little city
533
00:28:23,400 --> 00:28:25,467
where shepherds tending their flocks
534
00:28:25,533 --> 00:28:28,233
still share hillsides with tiled rooftops.
535
00:28:28,967 --> 00:28:33,000
This is where the heart and soul
of the Dushku family lives.
536
00:28:44,300 --> 00:28:45,967
ELIZA: Whee! You made it.
537
00:28:48,233 --> 00:28:49,700
Here. I can't speak a lick.
538
00:28:50,267 --> 00:28:52,233
I... Okay... The basics, okay...
539
00:28:52,533 --> 00:28:53,700
-Po.
-Po.
540
00:28:53,767 --> 00:28:55,767
Po means "yes,"
but you shake your head "no."
541
00:28:55,833 --> 00:28:57,333
-(LAUGHS)
-What?
542
00:28:58,700 --> 00:29:00,467
Po. What's "no"?
543
00:29:00,533 --> 00:29:03,133
"No" is "Yo." You say "Yo" for "no."
544
00:29:04,467 --> 00:29:05,500
That's all you need to know right now.
545
00:29:05,567 --> 00:29:07,067
We have translators. They're pretty good.
546
00:29:08,400 --> 00:29:09,800
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
547
00:29:14,400 --> 00:29:16,700
So Fadil, what part of, uh,
Albania are you from?
548
00:29:16,767 --> 00:29:20,700
The north and everybody's lighter,
taller, blonder,
549
00:29:20,767 --> 00:29:23,733
but they're the mountain men,
so it's a whole another...
550
00:29:23,800 --> 00:29:25,267
-NATE: What about the women?
-Huh?
551
00:29:25,333 --> 00:29:26,500
They're like mountain men too.
552
00:29:26,567 --> 00:29:27,933
(LAUGHTER)
553
00:29:28,000 --> 00:29:29,400
That's what they look like. They are.
554
00:29:29,467 --> 00:29:31,900
Right? They're very strong
and they're beautiful.
555
00:29:32,433 --> 00:29:33,433
There's your byrek.
556
00:29:33,500 --> 00:29:35,967
ELIZA: Ah. This is what my grandma made.
557
00:29:36,600 --> 00:29:39,667
But my grandmother used to make this,
558
00:29:39,900 --> 00:29:42,533
that was one of the main traditions
she passed on
559
00:29:42,600 --> 00:29:45,600
and she taught my mother
how to make the spinach pie
560
00:29:45,667 --> 00:29:46,900
with the filo dough.
561
00:29:47,133 --> 00:29:49,500
We used to make it as kids
and then on New Years',
562
00:29:49,567 --> 00:29:51,767
we would put coins wrapped in tin foil
563
00:29:51,833 --> 00:29:53,600
and we would put them into that.
564
00:29:53,667 --> 00:29:56,800
And whoever got the coin,
it was... Meant good luck.
565
00:29:57,533 --> 00:29:58,633
Cheers.
566
00:29:58,700 --> 00:29:59,700
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
567
00:30:02,000 --> 00:30:04,433
ELIZA: It doesn't get any better
than to stumble into Korça,
568
00:30:04,500 --> 00:30:06,767
on the first night of Beer Fest,
569
00:30:06,833 --> 00:30:09,433
one of the biggest festivals of its kind
in the country,
570
00:30:09,633 --> 00:30:13,133
until Korça's own,
the illustrious Eli Fara,
571
00:30:13,200 --> 00:30:16,667
begins a serenata and invites us on stage.
572
00:30:17,167 --> 00:30:19,433
(SINGING IN ALBANIAN)
573
00:30:39,000 --> 00:30:40,200
Just a short stop.
574
00:30:40,300 --> 00:30:42,133
ELIZA: The next morning at our hotel,
575
00:30:42,200 --> 00:30:44,567
we bump into Junik and Monika,
576
00:30:44,633 --> 00:30:46,700
who say they're also our cousins.
577
00:30:47,667 --> 00:30:51,867
It took a year for us to figure out
how we're actually related.
578
00:30:52,033 --> 00:30:55,133
Our great-grandfather, Vani,
was orphaned at a young age
579
00:30:55,200 --> 00:30:58,300
and raised by his uncle Pando,
580
00:30:58,400 --> 00:31:00,967
whose great-great-grandchildren
581
00:31:01,033 --> 00:31:02,767
are Junik and Monika.
582
00:31:04,367 --> 00:31:06,400
It's so nice to finally meet you.
583
00:31:06,533 --> 00:31:09,633
We've heard that we had
family members in Korça.
584
00:31:10,700 --> 00:31:13,667
Last night we were at the Beer Fest,
585
00:31:13,733 --> 00:31:15,433
and some people would run up and say,
586
00:31:15,500 --> 00:31:18,800
"Look at my driver's license,
my identification.
587
00:31:18,867 --> 00:31:20,867
"It says 'Dushku' on it. I'm your cousin."
588
00:31:21,100 --> 00:31:22,767
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
589
00:31:22,833 --> 00:31:25,467
ANI: If he's from Korça
and he's Christian, he's your cousin.
590
00:31:25,533 --> 00:31:26,733
(LAUGHING)
591
00:31:29,100 --> 00:31:31,433
ELIZA: So our ancestors are Christian.
592
00:31:32,200 --> 00:31:35,233
Christianity spread to Albania
through Roman influence
593
00:31:35,300 --> 00:31:39,000
and its historic churches reflect
the early enactment of the religion.
594
00:31:40,300 --> 00:31:43,500
However, today, Christianity
is the second largest religion
595
00:31:43,567 --> 00:31:44,733
after Islam.
596
00:31:45,167 --> 00:31:48,733
In the 14th century,
the Byzantine Empire's power waned
597
00:31:48,800 --> 00:31:51,900
and the Ottomans turned Albania
into a Muslim territory.
598
00:31:53,733 --> 00:31:56,767
Upon achieving independence in 1912,
599
00:31:56,833 --> 00:32:00,433
religion was systematically removed
from national culture.
600
00:32:00,500 --> 00:32:04,833
A solid precursor of the secular
or neutral country that it is today.
601
00:32:06,433 --> 00:32:09,200
During the communist reign of Enver Hoxha,
602
00:32:09,267 --> 00:32:13,667
Albania became the only constitutionally
atheist state in the world
603
00:32:13,733 --> 00:32:16,533
from 1967 to 1990.
604
00:32:17,200 --> 00:32:21,633
To Hoxha, perhaps religion
was too much of a threat from the outside.
605
00:32:21,700 --> 00:32:24,767
He was set on maintaining
an Albania that was autonomous.
606
00:32:26,100 --> 00:32:28,467
Hoxha outlawed all forms of religion,
607
00:32:28,533 --> 00:32:32,033
and swiftly closed or repurposed
churches and mosques,
608
00:32:32,100 --> 00:32:36,467
some of which have been restored
or reopened in the past 20 years,
609
00:32:36,533 --> 00:32:39,500
including the oldest church in Korça.
610
00:32:44,800 --> 00:32:46,033
Watch your head.
611
00:32:47,933 --> 00:32:51,500
They said these frescoes are from 1390.
612
00:32:54,033 --> 00:32:55,433
This is gorgeous.
613
00:32:56,500 --> 00:32:59,200
(CLATTERING)
614
00:33:00,533 --> 00:33:02,633
Oh, my gosh.
615
00:33:06,833 --> 00:33:09,167
NATE: Wow...
ELIZA: I have chills right now.
616
00:33:10,733 --> 00:33:12,467
NATE: (SOFTLY)
Do you feel a stillness in here?
617
00:33:14,333 --> 00:33:16,467
I feel like my heart is beating so fast.
618
00:33:17,500 --> 00:33:18,500
Wow...
619
00:33:22,833 --> 00:33:24,600
ELIZA: The church of our grandparents.
620
00:33:39,900 --> 00:33:43,067
ELIZA: Albania is not just a place,
it is a people.
621
00:33:45,500 --> 00:33:46,900
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
622
00:33:47,733 --> 00:33:50,967
Today, over half of those
that consider themselves Albanian
623
00:33:51,033 --> 00:33:52,967
live outside the country.
624
00:33:53,033 --> 00:33:59,500
About 3.2 million within Albania,
1.7 million in neighboring Kosovo,
625
00:33:59,567 --> 00:34:02,667
700,000 in Macedonia to the east
626
00:34:02,733 --> 00:34:05,467
and over a million more
live across the globe.
627
00:34:05,533 --> 00:34:11,033
Some in neighboring countries such as
Montenegro, Greece, Italy and Germany,
628
00:34:11,100 --> 00:34:14,467
and others in distant ones,
from Australia to the US.
629
00:34:16,433 --> 00:34:19,733
After the fall of communism
in the early 1990s,
630
00:34:19,800 --> 00:34:22,233
800,000 people fled the country,
631
00:34:22,300 --> 00:34:24,933
nearly 20% of the Albanian population
632
00:34:25,000 --> 00:34:28,333
and 45% of its academic
and educated class.
633
00:34:32,700 --> 00:34:37,533
And yet, Albanians maintain
an identity without borders,
634
00:34:37,600 --> 00:34:39,800
connecting more with their shared history.
635
00:34:41,633 --> 00:34:44,733
The language, one of the oldest
in western civilization,
636
00:34:44,800 --> 00:34:46,167
is remarkably distinct,
637
00:34:46,233 --> 00:34:50,400
showing no close affinity
to any other surviving languages.
638
00:34:51,433 --> 00:34:52,867
The largest use of it today
639
00:34:52,933 --> 00:34:57,233
defines a territory that is
often referred to as Ethnic Albania,
640
00:34:58,500 --> 00:35:02,800
a region which continues to evolve
from a history of disputed borders
641
00:35:02,867 --> 00:35:06,000
that don't always reflect
demographic realities.
642
00:35:07,400 --> 00:35:10,933
Here, many ethnic groups
live interspersed.
643
00:35:11,933 --> 00:35:13,867
And so, we travel beyond the border
644
00:35:13,933 --> 00:35:16,833
to visit Albanian cities
in neighboring countries,
645
00:35:16,967 --> 00:35:18,533
starting with Tetova,
646
00:35:18,600 --> 00:35:21,633
in The Former Yugoslav
Republic of Macedonia,
647
00:35:21,700 --> 00:35:25,033
which declared its independence in 1991.
648
00:35:30,933 --> 00:35:32,967
We visit The Painted Mosque,
649
00:35:33,033 --> 00:35:34,700
built in 1438,
650
00:35:34,967 --> 00:35:37,100
and rebuilt in 1833.
651
00:35:37,500 --> 00:35:40,200
Over 30,000 eggs were used
652
00:35:40,267 --> 00:35:42,867
to make the paints and glazes
that adorn the mosque.
653
00:35:43,733 --> 00:35:45,633
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
654
00:35:47,967 --> 00:35:49,367
ELIZA: (IN ENGLISH)
What about Masha Allah?
655
00:35:49,567 --> 00:35:55,033
(ANI AND MAN SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
656
00:35:57,233 --> 00:35:59,233
(IN ENGLISH) Like for example,
somebody's wishing for something,
657
00:35:59,300 --> 00:36:00,800
they say "Masha Allah," God willing.
658
00:36:00,933 --> 00:36:02,067
ELIZA: Thank you for this.
659
00:36:03,467 --> 00:36:05,100
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
660
00:36:05,467 --> 00:36:10,933
ELIZA: Mother Teresa was born in Skopje,
now the capital city of Macedonia.
661
00:36:11,000 --> 00:36:13,500
She went on to win the Nobel Peace Prize,
662
00:36:13,567 --> 00:36:18,200
and create a legacy of service to the poor
and to those in need around the world.
663
00:36:19,800 --> 00:36:23,533
Next, we tale a jaunt
into the country of Kosovo.
664
00:36:23,600 --> 00:36:26,433
The vibrant, youth-driven
capital city of Pristina,
665
00:36:26,700 --> 00:36:28,700
is where Fadil
spent most of his childhood,
666
00:36:29,400 --> 00:36:32,900
and is currently undergoing
a cultural and political resurgence
667
00:36:32,967 --> 00:36:36,567
since the Kosovo War
came to an end in 1999.
668
00:36:38,033 --> 00:36:40,333
We stop by Radio Television of Kosovo,
669
00:36:40,400 --> 00:36:43,667
and are welcomed
by a surprise visit from an old friend,
670
00:36:43,733 --> 00:36:44,967
Tony Dovolani.
671
00:36:45,033 --> 00:36:47,367
Tony Dovolani! (GASPS)
672
00:36:47,433 --> 00:36:49,567
This is amazing.
673
00:36:49,700 --> 00:36:51,633
I set this up with Fadil.
674
00:36:51,700 --> 00:36:53,567
You did... Were you here?
675
00:36:53,633 --> 00:36:55,300
No, I flew directly from Hollywood.
676
00:36:55,433 --> 00:36:59,567
In fact, this is a very special place
because before I came to United States,
677
00:36:59,667 --> 00:37:01,300
I was born and raised in Pristina.
678
00:37:01,533 --> 00:37:02,567
I didn't know that!
679
00:37:02,633 --> 00:37:04,167
I know you were Albanian,
but I never knew that.
680
00:37:04,233 --> 00:37:06,200
Yes, actually, I'm a political refugee.
681
00:37:06,300 --> 00:37:10,167
When the war started, my dad had to
literally pick up his family and leave
682
00:37:10,233 --> 00:37:11,733
because we were chased out of the country.
683
00:37:11,800 --> 00:37:12,900
Oh, my gosh.
684
00:37:12,967 --> 00:37:15,700
And this is the very stage
where I started my dancing.
685
00:37:15,767 --> 00:37:18,200
Literally, I used to dance on TV,
when the TV Top 40,
686
00:37:18,267 --> 00:37:22,033
I used to breakdance in the background
when they were playing and all that, so...
687
00:37:22,100 --> 00:37:26,833
So when I came to the United States,
I seeked out dancing
688
00:37:26,933 --> 00:37:28,100
and the rest is history, you know.
689
00:37:28,167 --> 00:37:31,067
Won two world titles for America and...
690
00:37:31,133 --> 00:37:32,467
Talk about saving my life.
691
00:37:32,533 --> 00:37:35,067
America did not just save Kosovo,
they saved my life too.
692
00:37:35,200 --> 00:37:37,767
I had no idea, and so how often
do you come back here?
693
00:37:37,833 --> 00:37:39,567
I come here now twice a year.
694
00:37:39,667 --> 00:37:40,733
-Twice a year?
-Yeah.
695
00:37:40,800 --> 00:37:43,033
What's it like?
I mean, how much has it changed?
696
00:37:43,100 --> 00:37:47,333
You know what's amazing is that you can
see the happiness on people's faces.
697
00:37:47,400 --> 00:37:48,900
They know this is a free country now.
698
00:37:48,967 --> 00:37:51,333
They're not... They don't have to
look over their shoulder.
699
00:37:51,400 --> 00:37:52,867
They don't have to look down a gun barrel
700
00:37:53,100 --> 00:37:55,100
in order to just walk across the street.
701
00:37:55,167 --> 00:37:59,467
I remember being followed with a sniper
to go get bread for my parents, so...
702
00:37:59,867 --> 00:38:01,067
You know, to be able...
703
00:38:01,133 --> 00:38:02,767
At first, when I arrived,
704
00:38:02,833 --> 00:38:05,200
I have to be honest,
I did have those feelings.
705
00:38:05,300 --> 00:38:08,400
I had to look over my shoulder
to see who is looking at me,
706
00:38:08,467 --> 00:38:11,200
but when I met
the first border patrol guy,
707
00:38:11,267 --> 00:38:13,000
he said, "Welcome home" in Albanian.
708
00:38:13,100 --> 00:38:14,767
(GREETING IN ALBANIAN)
709
00:38:15,033 --> 00:38:17,500
It was the best words.
I get goosebumps right now.
710
00:38:17,900 --> 00:38:20,400
Tell me about Albanian or Kosovar dance.
711
00:38:20,467 --> 00:38:22,200
-Is there a traditional dance?
-Oh, there's...
712
00:38:22,267 --> 00:38:23,733
-That's how I started.
-That's how you started?
713
00:38:23,800 --> 00:38:25,700
Yes. Folk dancing
is Shota here in Pristina.
714
00:38:25,767 --> 00:38:26,900
-Shota.
-Yes.
715
00:38:26,967 --> 00:38:28,300
How does the folk dance go?
716
00:38:28,400 --> 00:38:30,400
The folk dance,
you put your arms out to the side,
717
00:38:30,467 --> 00:38:32,100
and the hands kind of move like this.
718
00:38:32,167 --> 00:38:34,200
And then you move your feet like this.
719
00:38:34,267 --> 00:38:37,800
One, two, there you go. One, two.
720
00:38:38,567 --> 00:38:40,300
ELIZA: As we say goodbye to Kosovo,
721
00:38:40,633 --> 00:38:43,333
Tony decides to ride with us
back into Albania
722
00:38:43,433 --> 00:38:46,433
into the northern region of Tropoja.
723
00:38:46,500 --> 00:38:49,467
At the border, our local hosts
and most of the village
724
00:38:49,533 --> 00:38:52,100
have come down
from the highlands to greet us.
725
00:38:52,167 --> 00:38:53,800
(FOLK MUSIC PLAYING)
726
00:38:55,900 --> 00:38:57,200
(TONY SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
727
00:39:06,433 --> 00:39:11,067
ELIZA: And up the mountain we go
following the crystal clear Valbona River
728
00:39:11,400 --> 00:39:14,167
all the way to the picturesque village
of Valbona.
729
00:39:14,267 --> 00:39:15,767
(FOLK MUSIC PLAYING)
730
00:39:17,967 --> 00:39:21,100
We are welcomed by rhapsodes,
or singing poets,
731
00:39:21,433 --> 00:39:24,433
that create multi-voice songs
known as kung,
732
00:39:24,500 --> 00:39:27,267
which weave together
history and current events.
733
00:39:31,567 --> 00:39:34,667
Their instruments date back
over a thousand years,
734
00:39:34,733 --> 00:39:37,000
including the two-stringed çiftelia.
735
00:39:37,067 --> 00:39:38,300
(STRUMMING)
736
00:39:42,867 --> 00:39:45,700
(SINGING IN ALBANIAN)
737
00:39:57,233 --> 00:39:58,900
...Eliza Dushku
738
00:39:59,000 --> 00:40:00,400
(CHEERING)
739
00:40:00,467 --> 00:40:02,800
(APPLAUSE)
740
00:40:02,867 --> 00:40:05,133
(SONG CONTINUES)
741
00:40:05,200 --> 00:40:06,200
(INAUDIBLE)
742
00:40:15,167 --> 00:40:17,600
(APPLAUSE)
743
00:40:20,833 --> 00:40:23,067
-(MAN SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
-Thank you so much.
744
00:40:23,133 --> 00:40:24,333
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
745
00:40:24,400 --> 00:40:26,267
MAN: (IN ENGLISH)
Wrote this song just for her.
746
00:40:30,300 --> 00:40:31,433
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
747
00:40:31,667 --> 00:40:33,567
(MAN SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
748
00:40:33,633 --> 00:40:35,067
(LAUGHING)
749
00:40:35,133 --> 00:40:36,367
MAN: (IN ENGLISH) I love it.
750
00:40:42,333 --> 00:40:43,367
Bravo! Very good!
751
00:40:43,433 --> 00:40:44,567
(CLAPPING)
752
00:40:44,667 --> 00:40:45,733
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN) Mmm.
753
00:40:45,800 --> 00:40:47,300
It's perfect.
754
00:40:47,367 --> 00:40:49,233
(LAUGHING)
755
00:40:49,900 --> 00:40:51,067
Yeah, that was a first.
756
00:40:51,300 --> 00:40:53,467
-(LAUGHTER)
-I am blown away right now.
757
00:40:54,233 --> 00:40:56,900
-(FOLK MUSIC PLAYING)
-(APPLAUSE)
758
00:40:57,867 --> 00:41:00,500
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
759
00:41:01,567 --> 00:41:02,933
(IN ENGLISH) Long live the Dushkus.
760
00:41:09,267 --> 00:41:10,633
ELIZA: We wake the next morning
761
00:41:10,700 --> 00:41:14,067
and drive our cars
right onto the Komani Lake ferry.
762
00:41:27,067 --> 00:41:28,767
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
763
00:41:36,300 --> 00:41:39,267
It wasn't long before the car ferry
became obsolete
764
00:41:39,333 --> 00:41:42,533
as highways have now been built
from Kosovo to the coast.
765
00:41:42,600 --> 00:41:45,433
But a small passenger boat
still makes the ride.
766
00:41:54,267 --> 00:41:58,833
After we dock,
we travel to the northern city of Shkoder,
767
00:41:58,900 --> 00:42:03,433
home of Rozafa Castle,
which dates back over 2,000 years
768
00:42:03,667 --> 00:42:06,300
to the time of the Illyrians.
769
00:42:09,167 --> 00:42:14,300
NATE: This is the oldest
and the biggest castle in all of Albania.
770
00:42:15,467 --> 00:42:19,633
The legend goes,
they were trying to build the castle
771
00:42:19,700 --> 00:42:21,867
and everything they would do
772
00:42:22,067 --> 00:42:25,633
to build it by day, by night was ruined.
773
00:42:25,700 --> 00:42:28,133
So, they went to the oracle
774
00:42:28,567 --> 00:42:33,267
and the oracle told them
that they had to sacrifice a young woman
775
00:42:33,333 --> 00:42:35,667
-in order for the walls to stand.
-Of course.
776
00:42:35,733 --> 00:42:38,433
-(CHUCKLING)
-So the three brothers were like,
777
00:42:38,533 --> 00:42:42,733
"How do we choose which of our wives
is gonna be sacrificed?"
778
00:42:42,800 --> 00:42:44,233
So the three brothers said,
779
00:42:44,300 --> 00:42:48,100
"Whichever wife of ours
brings us lunch tomorrow
780
00:42:48,167 --> 00:42:50,067
"is gonna be the one
that goes into the wall."
781
00:42:50,167 --> 00:42:53,167
So they made a pact that
they wouldn't discuss with their wives
782
00:42:53,233 --> 00:42:56,567
so it would be, you know,
destiny who came.
783
00:42:56,633 --> 00:42:59,833
And the two oldest brothers
didn't keep their promise
784
00:42:59,900 --> 00:43:01,733
and they went
and told their wives not to come.
785
00:43:02,400 --> 00:43:04,300
So the youngest brother,
786
00:43:04,367 --> 00:43:06,667
his wife was the wife
that came and brought the lunch.
787
00:43:06,733 --> 00:43:10,067
And she said, "Well, I'm willing
to make this sacrifice,
788
00:43:10,133 --> 00:43:12,900
"but only if you
put half of my body into the wall."
789
00:43:12,967 --> 00:43:15,400
Because she was pregnant with a child
790
00:43:15,467 --> 00:43:19,400
and she wanted to have one eye
where she could see her son,
791
00:43:19,467 --> 00:43:21,433
and one breast so she could nurse her son,
792
00:43:21,500 --> 00:43:23,533
and one leg with which
she could rock the cradle.
793
00:43:23,800 --> 00:43:25,500
They made the deal
and the castle was built.
794
00:43:25,800 --> 00:43:28,133
I think downstairs
there's a tunnel with lime
795
00:43:28,200 --> 00:43:30,800
where they represent her breast milk.
796
00:43:31,633 --> 00:43:34,200
And it symbolized
the sacrifice that Albanians have made
797
00:43:34,267 --> 00:43:37,700
for so many years,
even all the way back to the Romans.
798
00:43:37,833 --> 00:43:41,233
They would make sacrifices
so that they were never kept
799
00:43:41,300 --> 00:43:43,000
under someone else's rule.
800
00:43:43,067 --> 00:43:45,867
And that they were free like the eagle.
801
00:43:45,933 --> 00:43:47,633
The eagle, the double-headed eagle.
802
00:43:50,533 --> 00:43:55,767
ELIZA: Across the border in Montenegro,
we travel to the town of Ulcinj.
803
00:43:55,833 --> 00:43:58,333
Once the pirate capital of the Adriatic,
804
00:43:58,400 --> 00:44:03,167
the beach town is now the center
of the Albanian community in Montenegro.
805
00:44:03,233 --> 00:44:06,267
During the summer months,
it becomes the getaway of choice
806
00:44:06,333 --> 00:44:08,400
for Albanians and world travelers alike.
807
00:44:15,067 --> 00:44:16,067
Cheers!
808
00:44:19,600 --> 00:44:21,000
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
809
00:44:21,100 --> 00:44:23,533
It's hopping. There are so many people!
810
00:44:28,067 --> 00:44:29,933
(MUSIC PLAYING OVER LOUDSPEAKERS)
811
00:44:38,767 --> 00:44:39,933
Bravo!
812
00:44:43,733 --> 00:44:48,367
And now, we're going to a very good,
very special place, there.
813
00:44:48,633 --> 00:44:50,433
-The tower.
-The tower.
814
00:44:50,567 --> 00:44:53,533
-Kalaja e Ulqinit.
-Kalaja e Ulqinit.
815
00:44:54,800 --> 00:44:56,200
-Let's do it.
-Let's go.
816
00:44:58,733 --> 00:45:00,533
We're going off to the theater.
817
00:45:00,633 --> 00:45:02,300
Ah, the theater in the tower?
818
00:45:02,367 --> 00:45:03,367
The tower, yes.
819
00:45:03,967 --> 00:45:05,433
ELIZA: Do you know where we're going?
820
00:45:05,967 --> 00:45:07,400
-(LAUGHS)
-Yes, of course!
821
00:45:07,467 --> 00:45:08,967
-Straight and then...
-Straight and then...
822
00:45:09,033 --> 00:45:10,067
Left, then right.
823
00:45:10,133 --> 00:45:11,400
ELIZA: Left or right? Left or right here.
824
00:45:11,800 --> 00:45:14,100
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
825
00:45:19,200 --> 00:45:20,200
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
826
00:45:20,300 --> 00:45:21,567
Where am I now?
827
00:45:21,633 --> 00:45:23,533
I am nowhere.
828
00:45:24,933 --> 00:45:26,200
I am a nobody...
829
00:45:28,633 --> 00:45:31,267
...who suffers for everything.
830
00:45:32,733 --> 00:45:34,367
Your self-righteousness...
831
00:45:34,433 --> 00:45:35,867
...your behavior.
832
00:45:35,933 --> 00:45:37,500
You disgust me.
833
00:45:37,800 --> 00:45:39,367
And not only me...
834
00:45:39,467 --> 00:45:41,000
...everyone.
835
00:45:41,100 --> 00:45:43,600
ELIZA: It's that voice that I recognize
in so many Albanian artists.
836
00:45:43,667 --> 00:45:45,533
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
Oh my God.
837
00:45:45,600 --> 00:45:47,833
Oh my God.
838
00:45:47,933 --> 00:45:51,433
ELIZA: Opera star Ermonela Jaho
shows a similar artistic conviction.
839
00:45:51,500 --> 00:45:53,200
(OPERA MUSIC PLAYING)
840
00:45:58,033 --> 00:45:59,033
(APPLAUSE)
841
00:46:02,733 --> 00:46:04,867
I think maybe the dramatic roles
for the Albanians
842
00:46:04,933 --> 00:46:07,133
-are, you know, our strong point.
-Mmm-hmm.
843
00:46:07,400 --> 00:46:11,300
And so I gave something from the Albanian,
that kind of passion,
844
00:46:11,367 --> 00:46:14,800
because Traviata is a very romantic opera,
really dramatic.
845
00:46:14,867 --> 00:46:18,500
The sacrifices, the love
and everything in this opera,
846
00:46:18,567 --> 00:46:21,800
you have to give emotion
because the music,
847
00:46:21,867 --> 00:46:24,700
the art, it's the language of the heart.
848
00:46:24,767 --> 00:46:28,000
So that's why the opera
and the music exists.
849
00:46:28,533 --> 00:46:33,133
We Albanian, we can do something really,
really, really huge, really special.
850
00:46:34,267 --> 00:46:37,467
ELIZA: Albanian opera legend Inva Mula
851
00:46:37,533 --> 00:46:41,700
voiced the ethereal opera diva
in the film, The Fifth Element.
852
00:46:43,333 --> 00:46:45,233
Inva comes from a family of opera singers
853
00:46:45,300 --> 00:46:48,633
and has been performing
around the world for over a decade.
854
00:46:52,333 --> 00:46:53,967
My family come from Korça.
855
00:46:54,033 --> 00:46:58,367
I wanted to sing the beginning
of a very nice song from Korça.
856
00:46:58,433 --> 00:46:59,567
-ELIZA: Mmm.
-Only for you.
857
00:47:00,800 --> 00:47:03,333
(SINGING OPERA)
858
00:47:25,200 --> 00:47:26,767
(APPLAUSE)
859
00:47:26,833 --> 00:47:27,833
(INDISTINCT)
860
00:47:29,233 --> 00:47:30,233
A gift for you.
861
00:47:30,300 --> 00:47:32,533
ELIZA: On the other side
of the musical spectrum,
862
00:47:32,600 --> 00:47:35,667
Albania and Kosovo
have many exciting pop artists
863
00:47:35,733 --> 00:47:40,233
and a strong hip-hop movement that emerged
from the tensions of the Kosovo War,
864
00:47:40,400 --> 00:47:43,033
giving voice to a new breed
of Albanian artists.
865
00:47:45,033 --> 00:47:46,933
(SINGING IN ALBANIAN)
866
00:47:56,367 --> 00:47:58,567
-(HIP-HOP MUSIC PLAYING)
-(SINGING) It has becoming at your face
867
00:47:58,633 --> 00:48:01,200
Ain't respect a thing, no man
868
00:48:01,267 --> 00:48:03,400
Tell 'em bloodah
869
00:48:03,467 --> 00:48:07,700
He be bleeding on his face
I told him he don't listen
870
00:48:07,867 --> 00:48:09,600
(RAPPING IN ALBANIAN)
871
00:48:15,600 --> 00:48:17,667
(SINGING HIP-HOP IN ALBANIAN)
872
00:48:20,333 --> 00:48:22,667
(RAPPING) Rappin' my game
Get my skull to your real thing
873
00:48:22,767 --> 00:48:24,200
We're livin' life on the fast lane
874
00:48:24,800 --> 00:48:27,200
They know we good, they know we bad
875
00:48:27,767 --> 00:48:30,167
They know we hood, me and my gang
876
00:48:30,833 --> 00:48:32,667
(RAPPING IN ALBANIAN)
877
00:48:34,933 --> 00:48:38,367
ELIZA: One of my favorite songs
is called 1990.
878
00:48:38,633 --> 00:48:41,200
A playful nod to a breakout year.
879
00:48:41,267 --> 00:48:43,067
(SINGING IN ALBANIAN)
880
00:48:46,167 --> 00:48:50,233
(SINGING IN ENGLISH)
Baby so fair, fair, baby so fair, fair
881
00:48:50,833 --> 00:48:53,300
(SINGING IN ALBANIAN)
882
00:48:54,333 --> 00:48:57,800
(IN ENGLISH) Growing up here,
it made me strong.
883
00:48:58,567 --> 00:48:59,567
It made me real.
884
00:49:00,233 --> 00:49:02,767
I'm surrounded by people
that always tell the truth.
885
00:49:02,833 --> 00:49:04,167
(CHUCKLES)
886
00:49:04,233 --> 00:49:07,667
They don't care what you think,
they always say it. (CHUCKLES)
887
00:49:07,733 --> 00:49:11,333
Um, and I think growing up here
made me a better artist.
888
00:49:13,267 --> 00:49:15,067
ELIZA: Though Aurela's musical stylings
889
00:49:15,133 --> 00:49:18,767
range from jazz
to traditional Albanian songs to pop,
890
00:49:18,833 --> 00:49:22,333
her work bears a continual mark
of Albanian influence.
891
00:49:22,533 --> 00:49:24,700
She shared with me
about the song she performed
892
00:49:24,767 --> 00:49:29,533
when she was chosen to represent Albania
at the annual Eurovision song contest.
893
00:49:29,933 --> 00:49:31,767
(SINGING)
894
00:49:34,033 --> 00:49:38,867
I chose to go there with music
that sounded Albanian.
895
00:49:38,933 --> 00:49:41,300
To present my country
in the best way I could.
896
00:49:42,433 --> 00:49:44,667
And I couldn't have gone there
in a better way,
897
00:49:44,733 --> 00:49:49,400
because I was showing
43 other countries
898
00:49:49,467 --> 00:49:51,333
that we have a music.
899
00:49:51,400 --> 00:49:55,500
Even though we're a small country,
we have a lot of passion here.
900
00:49:57,767 --> 00:49:59,367
I wanted to put some Albanian, uh...
901
00:50:00,133 --> 00:50:01,467
-Flair
-Flair!
902
00:50:01,533 --> 00:50:03,700
Right? So in my song I was saying...
903
00:50:03,767 --> 00:50:07,133
(SINGING)
I'm like an eagle in the open sky
904
00:50:07,767 --> 00:50:11,133
I'll never land, I'm flying high
905
00:50:11,300 --> 00:50:13,967
(SPEAKING) I wanted to put
the eagle there. (CHUCKLING)
906
00:50:14,033 --> 00:50:18,300
And of course, um,
I dressed kind of like an eagle.
907
00:50:18,367 --> 00:50:23,133
Everything on stage was made with
the flair of the Albanian sound and...
908
00:50:23,567 --> 00:50:25,033
-Nature, yeah.
-I love that.
909
00:50:25,233 --> 00:50:28,500
ELIZA: That Albanian pride
that Aurela expressed,
910
00:50:28,567 --> 00:50:31,433
that open-hearted, outspoken pride,
911
00:50:31,500 --> 00:50:34,933
is certainly one of the people's
defining qualities.
912
00:50:35,000 --> 00:50:37,300
But the warmth and kindness of Albanians,
913
00:50:37,367 --> 00:50:38,667
their hospitality,
914
00:50:38,733 --> 00:50:40,900
made an even bigger impression on us.
915
00:50:41,000 --> 00:50:44,967
We learned that many of these qualities
stem from an Albanian code of honor
916
00:50:45,033 --> 00:50:46,567
called "Besa".
917
00:50:46,633 --> 00:50:48,633
Back in Tirana,
we ask our cousins about it.
918
00:50:49,100 --> 00:50:50,200
-FLORIAN: Oh, Besa.
-Besa?
919
00:50:50,267 --> 00:50:54,300
Have you heard of this book Besa
or the word, "Besa"?
920
00:50:54,367 --> 00:50:56,367
-FLORIAN: "Besa" means to...
-To promise?
921
00:50:56,433 --> 00:50:57,867
-FLORIAN: To promise.
-Yeah.
922
00:50:57,933 --> 00:51:02,833
Somebody gave us this book
and it's about how Albania and Denmark
923
00:51:02,900 --> 00:51:06,367
were the only two countries
during World War II
924
00:51:06,433 --> 00:51:08,000
that protected the Jews,
925
00:51:08,067 --> 00:51:09,233
NELI: The Jewish.
NATE: Oh, the Jews.
926
00:51:09,567 --> 00:51:11,167
-We're very proud of...
-We should be proud of it.
927
00:51:11,300 --> 00:51:13,800
NELI: When it happened,
it happened in Albania.
928
00:51:14,300 --> 00:51:17,300
-They would hide the Jewish families...
-Mmm-hmm.
929
00:51:17,367 --> 00:51:20,900
...in the, um, basements of the houses.
930
00:51:20,967 --> 00:51:22,933
They would not tell a word.
931
00:51:23,000 --> 00:51:25,367
NATE: Or turn them in...
932
00:51:25,433 --> 00:51:27,433
No way. No way.
933
00:51:27,500 --> 00:51:31,967
Mmm-hmm. They were passed as Muslims.
Muslims are locals.
934
00:51:32,033 --> 00:51:33,133
So not Jewish.
935
00:51:33,467 --> 00:51:34,600
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
936
00:51:34,667 --> 00:51:38,233
Was Besa mainly a Muslim thing
or was Besa, all Albania's?
937
00:51:38,300 --> 00:51:39,900
No, virtually all over Albania.
938
00:51:39,967 --> 00:51:41,267
All over Albania?
939
00:51:41,467 --> 00:51:43,600
(OVERLAPPING CHATTER)
940
00:51:43,667 --> 00:51:44,900
NELI: Besa means,
941
00:51:44,967 --> 00:51:47,467
I put myself in your hands.
942
00:51:47,533 --> 00:51:50,533
I believe in what you say,
I believe in Besa.
943
00:51:50,967 --> 00:51:54,400
I trust you with my life.
944
00:51:54,467 --> 00:51:56,000
I trust you with my...
945
00:51:56,067 --> 00:51:57,633
-To a complete stranger...
-To a complete stranger.
946
00:51:57,700 --> 00:51:59,233
Or do you have to like meet them?
947
00:51:59,300 --> 00:52:02,600
NELI: It doesn't have
to be someone you know.
948
00:52:03,633 --> 00:52:04,933
But how well do you have to know someone
949
00:52:05,000 --> 00:52:07,633
before you would kill your own son
to protect them.
950
00:52:07,733 --> 00:52:08,967
NATE: It's a feeling.
951
00:52:09,533 --> 00:52:10,533
ELIZA: Wow!
952
00:52:10,767 --> 00:52:14,567
So if other people do respect me,
they have to respect even you.
953
00:52:14,633 --> 00:52:15,733
I'm very that way.
954
00:52:15,800 --> 00:52:19,033
People always say I'm very protective
of the people that are close to me.
955
00:52:19,833 --> 00:52:22,300
-NELI: I'm sure that they feel it.
-They're under my Besa.
956
00:52:23,600 --> 00:52:25,433
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
957
00:52:27,800 --> 00:52:30,400
FLORIAN: (IN ENGLISH)
Albanians, through their actions,
958
00:52:30,467 --> 00:52:35,233
show that they are faithful
to somebody or to be trusted.
959
00:52:36,200 --> 00:52:37,900
Because they're protecting somebody.
960
00:52:37,967 --> 00:52:39,567
-Yeah, plus...
-They covered somebody.
961
00:52:40,467 --> 00:52:42,533
ELIZA: How do you reconcile
this idea of Besa?
962
00:52:42,600 --> 00:52:45,633
Of protecting a stranger
who may have different beliefs,
963
00:52:45,700 --> 00:52:48,933
while having such a strong sense
of loyalty to one's own?
964
00:52:49,367 --> 00:52:54,333
How can a country be both fiercely proud
and incredibly nurturing of outsiders?
965
00:52:54,567 --> 00:52:57,300
We're not, uh, close-minded people.
966
00:52:57,367 --> 00:53:01,000
We are open-minded people.
We love everything that's beautiful.
967
00:53:01,067 --> 00:53:04,467
We love America, we love Japan,
we love everything.
968
00:53:04,533 --> 00:53:07,500
Right? But if you don't know
where you come from,
969
00:53:07,567 --> 00:53:10,067
you can't love nobody else, right?
970
00:53:14,267 --> 00:53:18,300
ELIZA: Inside all of us
is a desire to know where we came from.
971
00:53:19,067 --> 00:53:20,567
That desire was at the heart
972
00:53:20,633 --> 00:53:23,700
of why Albania was a place
I wanted to get to know
973
00:53:23,967 --> 00:53:27,067
(VIDEO PLAYING ON LAPTOP)
974
00:53:27,833 --> 00:53:29,367
ELIZA: On the last day of our visit,
975
00:53:29,433 --> 00:53:32,367
Neli unveiled a slideshow
she had lovingly crafted
976
00:53:32,433 --> 00:53:34,500
of old family photos.
977
00:53:35,000 --> 00:53:37,633
We sat and watched faces go by.
978
00:53:38,667 --> 00:53:41,533
Our grandparents, George and Villermini.
979
00:53:41,600 --> 00:53:44,900
We saw, for the first time,
the faces of our great-grandparents,
980
00:53:44,967 --> 00:53:46,600
Jovann and Aleksandra.
981
00:53:47,300 --> 00:53:49,433
Then, childhood photos of our uncles.
982
00:53:49,567 --> 00:53:51,600
Nicholas, Victor, Charlie,
983
00:53:51,700 --> 00:53:55,200
our father Philip,
and his little sister Gloria.
984
00:54:00,967 --> 00:54:06,133
In 1990, Albania's capital city Tirana
had only one stoplight.
985
00:54:06,767 --> 00:54:09,800
But now, the capital
is a bustling hub of traffic.
986
00:54:10,500 --> 00:54:14,633
This simple symbol reveals
how Albanians have seized their destiny,
987
00:54:14,767 --> 00:54:19,267
emerging from their isolated past
with warmth, dignity and a hope
988
00:54:19,333 --> 00:54:21,433
that opportunity will continue to flourish
989
00:54:21,500 --> 00:54:24,967
not only outside of its borders,
but also within them.
990
00:54:27,000 --> 00:54:29,200
Our last bit of business in Tirana,
991
00:54:29,467 --> 00:54:32,133
a meeting
with the presiding prime minister,
992
00:54:32,600 --> 00:54:33,967
Sali Berisha,
993
00:54:34,167 --> 00:54:36,933
who presented me
with more than just a parting gift.
994
00:54:37,000 --> 00:54:38,267
(BOTH GREETING IN ALBANIAN)
995
00:54:38,600 --> 00:54:40,633
-(CHUCKLING)
-ELIZA: Thank you.
996
00:54:40,867 --> 00:54:44,000
This trip has been
beyond what we could've...
997
00:54:44,067 --> 00:54:45,067
...imagined.
998
00:54:45,400 --> 00:54:48,633
It is, the more you visit this country,
the more you love it.
999
00:54:48,833 --> 00:54:50,033
-ELIZA: Yes, absolutely.
-Absolutely.
1000
00:54:51,633 --> 00:54:53,800
Now, this,
1001
00:54:55,100 --> 00:54:57,433
your Albanian passport.
1002
00:54:57,533 --> 00:55:00,467
Ah, with the photo from Vlora.
1003
00:55:00,600 --> 00:55:01,933
(BOTH CHUCKLING)
1004
00:55:02,167 --> 00:55:03,833
They spelled my name right and everything.
1005
00:55:03,900 --> 00:55:05,633
(CHUCKLING) This is great!
1006
00:55:06,200 --> 00:55:08,000
I'm so excited.
1007
00:55:09,467 --> 00:55:11,100
Yes, we'd love to come back.
1008
00:55:13,200 --> 00:55:14,333
-We're in the clouds.
-NATE: Oh!
1009
00:55:15,100 --> 00:55:16,300
ANI: Whole city there.
1010
00:55:17,767 --> 00:55:18,933
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
1011
00:55:19,000 --> 00:55:21,333
(CHUCKLES) Long live Albania!
1012
00:55:22,800 --> 00:55:25,267
EDI: Our mysteries,
our strength in this moment,
1013
00:55:25,333 --> 00:55:29,800
we wish to get lost
amongst many big countries.
1014
00:55:30,100 --> 00:55:32,933
Being, uh, the last mystery
1015
00:55:33,733 --> 00:55:37,467
would help us,
but we should do it in a way that,
1016
00:55:37,533 --> 00:55:43,767
uh, it's a mystery, but it's, um,
possible to be accessed.
1017
00:55:48,633 --> 00:55:51,233
ELIZA: When I was a kid,
our father taught us to say...
1018
00:55:51,333 --> 00:55:52,833
(SPEAKING ALBANIAN)
1019
00:55:55,933 --> 00:55:58,800
I realize now, it's one thing to say it,
1020
00:56:00,533 --> 00:56:02,167
it's another thing to mean it.
1021
00:56:12,000 --> 00:56:14,533
With all my love, Eliza.
77115
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