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This is an astonishingly
chance relationship
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00:08:22,374 --> 00:08:25,004
between Western climbers
and the Sherpas.
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00:08:25,677 --> 00:08:28,561
When climbing began,
the Sherpas had no conception
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00:08:28,585 --> 00:08:30,288
of what mountaineering
might be,
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00:08:30,415 --> 00:08:32,295
and yet, suddenly they were
on this journey
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00:08:33,489 --> 00:08:36,808
from being people who just
genetically were really good at altitude
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00:08:37,993 --> 00:08:41,392
to becoming, you know, international
mountain guides 100 years later.
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00:08:44,330 --> 00:08:47,448
1953, coronation year.
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00:08:47,784 --> 00:08:51,037
The world was turned by the news
that Everest had at last been conquered
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00:08:51,240 --> 00:08:53,987
by a British expedition
led by Coronel John Hunt.
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00:08:54,084 --> 00:08:55,935
Accompanied
by the famous Sherpa Tenzing,
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00:08:56,039 --> 00:08:59,562
Edmund Hillary climbed the summit
of the world's highest mountain.
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00:09:00,422 --> 00:09:02,651
When Tenzing Norgay
reached the summit of Everest,
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00:09:03,036 --> 00:09:04,716
that is such an amazing moment.
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00:09:05,387 --> 00:09:08,397
It's one of the most beautiful
moments in climbing history.
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00:09:09,232 --> 00:09:11,047
That's the moment
when the word "Sherpa"
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00:09:11,281 --> 00:09:15,130
has the meaning of brand
in the way that we understand it.
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00:09:17,210 --> 00:09:19,479
The world
was captivated by Tenzing.
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00:09:19,775 --> 00:09:23,276
And he fixed in our minds
the popular image of a Sherpa,
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00:09:23,668 --> 00:09:27,746
as this smiling, friendly,
almost heroic figure.
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00:09:29,748 --> 00:09:33,218
A lot of the Western world
do not know what a Sherpa is.
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00:09:33,542 --> 00:09:36,961
So, a Sherpa, you know,
you climb mountains.
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00:09:37,195 --> 00:09:38,174
And that's the first instinct,
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00:09:38,482 --> 00:09:42,110
but they have no idea that we are
actually an ethnic group of people.
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00:09:51,044 --> 00:09:55,126
We believe in reincarnation,
life after death.
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00:09:56,418 --> 00:09:59,841
And you continue to be reborn,
and reborn, and reborn,
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00:09:59,865 --> 00:10:02,445
until the day you reach Nirvana.
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00:10:09,574 --> 00:10:13,834
So, your next life is determined
by your deeds of this life.
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00:10:19,410 --> 00:10:24,349
We Sherpa people have a great
respect for the mountain.
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00:10:40,005 --> 00:10:43,509
Over here, we climb mountains,
but it's a holy place.
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00:10:43,797 --> 00:10:45,536
There's a huge difference in,
you know,
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00:10:45,617 --> 00:10:47,599
the attitude, the feeling.
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00:10:50,613 --> 00:10:54,704
Western people approach it
as a physical challenge,
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00:10:54,790 --> 00:10:57,874
push your limit to see
how close you can get to death.
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00:10:58,017 --> 00:11:02,667
But there's 1,000-year-old stories
we have about the mountain, its history,
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00:11:02,951 --> 00:11:05,451
which these people
have no idea about.
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00:11:06,475 --> 00:11:10,202
And I think some people adapt, learn
and respect it. Some people don't.
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00:11:16,039 --> 00:11:19,731
If Phurba is one of the most successful
climbing Sherpas of his generation,
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00:11:20,820 --> 00:11:22,993
then his counterpart
amongst expedition leaders
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00:11:23,207 --> 00:11:25,055
is his boss, Russell Brice.
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00:11:26,066 --> 00:11:29,448
I've been running
commercial expeditions here since 1994.
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00:11:30,350 --> 00:11:35,153
I think I'm the one that's been on more
Everest expeditions than anyone else.
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00:11:42,057 --> 00:11:43,520
- It's all oxygen.
- All oxygen.
44
00:11:43,790 --> 00:11:46,359
And I brought those
two broken ones in kathmandu.
45
00:11:46,615 --> 00:11:48,312
How can I explain Phurba Tashi?
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00:11:48,965 --> 00:11:51,572
This year, he might climb
Everest 22 times.
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00:11:51,819 --> 00:11:54,011
More than anyone else
in the world.
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00:11:54,685 --> 00:11:59,266
and such a special person.
He's incredibly strong on the mountain.
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00:12:00,613 --> 00:12:02,783
Good idea. Hot water here.
50
00:12:03,427 --> 00:12:08,190
Easy to come from the kitchen.
51
00:12:58,969 --> 00:13:01,860
The service-industry aspect
of climbing Everest
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00:13:02,072 --> 00:13:04,415
has developed and developed.
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00:13:08,690 --> 00:13:12,522
So what mountaineers in 1975
maybe would have put up with,
54
00:13:12,598 --> 00:13:15,982
the people who are coming now
want something a bit more. You know,
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00:13:16,227 --> 00:13:18,495
they want
a very comfortable base camp.
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00:13:18,570 --> 00:13:20,158
Everything's good.
57
00:13:20,990 --> 00:13:23,983
So much work
for these guys to make
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00:13:24,322 --> 00:13:27,584
all these platforms
and put tents up.
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00:13:34,146 --> 00:13:36,906
The activity here
has changed utterly.
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00:13:37,060 --> 00:13:38,730
It has become an industry,
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00:13:39,019 --> 00:13:42,621
and that industry is people,
largely by Sherpas.
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00:13:48,468 --> 00:13:51,277
And they may not still
fully understand
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00:13:51,562 --> 00:13:54,740
what it is that compels us
to climb mountains,
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00:13:54,881 --> 00:13:58,681
but they are fantastically good
at delivering the experience.
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00:14:14,205 --> 00:14:18,687
So far so good, actually. Everybody's
looking and sounding quite healthy.
66
00:14:18,845 --> 00:14:22,206
A couple mild headaches,
but that's to be expected.
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00:14:22,515 --> 00:14:23,650
Okay, folks.
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00:14:24,106 --> 00:14:26,079
Let's roll on out of town.
69
00:14:40,361 --> 00:14:43,249
In the old days, people did everything
on the mountain together.
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00:14:44,007 --> 00:14:46,446
And today,
the mountain has changed in that
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00:14:46,589 --> 00:14:48,874
The operators
take care of everything.
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00:14:49,695 --> 00:14:52,748
In the old days,
if you got one person on the summit,
73
00:14:53,012 --> 00:14:54,178
that was success.
74
00:14:54,564 --> 00:14:57,087
Now, we need to get everyone
on the summit.
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00:14:57,240 --> 00:14:59,145
So if you want to get everyone
on the summit,
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00:14:59,345 --> 00:15:01,308
you need much more
creature comfort.
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00:15:02,852 --> 00:15:05,219
Certainly the type of person
that comes on an expedition
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00:15:05,428 --> 00:15:07,793
has changed considerably.
79
00:15:08,900 --> 00:15:13,275
We bring people here
to help them fulfill their dreams.
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00:15:20,417 --> 00:15:23,389
Phurba, good to see you.
You boys have done hard work.
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00:15:46,436 --> 00:15:50,917
It's been a goal as a climber.
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00:15:51,262 --> 00:15:54,358
I know to a lot of climbers,
it might be trivial,
83
00:15:54,528 --> 00:15:57,488
but to me,
being on top of Everest,
84
00:15:57,803 --> 00:15:59,704
is just an achievement
of a dream.
85
00:15:59,820 --> 00:16:00,990
Part of the reason why
you want to come and climbing
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00:16:01,194 --> 00:16:02,471
you want to experience
those things,
87
00:16:02,737 --> 00:16:05,090
see if you can do it, see
if you can physically do it.
88
00:16:05,172 --> 00:16:08,424
- It's a massive undertaking.
- The training is phenomenal.
89
00:16:09,372 --> 00:16:10,458
And, you know,
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00:16:11,259 --> 00:16:12,996
it's not something you put together
in a couple weeks.
91
00:16:13,214 --> 00:16:16,060
It's months of planning
and months of getting organized.
92
00:16:16,663 --> 00:16:20,008
Ever since I was always have been
attracted for several reasons.
93
00:16:20,063 --> 00:16:22,831
I love the buddhist side to it,
I love the...
94
00:16:23,623 --> 00:16:24,857
I love the Nepalese people.
95
00:16:25,291 --> 00:16:28,645
So, for me,
it's an enjoyable mountain the most,
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00:16:28,711 --> 00:16:31,249
because I think that's so cool
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00:16:31,542 --> 00:16:34,585
that you get to share
with these beautiful people.
98
00:16:37,274 --> 00:16:39,263
Have you ever seen a man
so particular?
99
00:16:41,821 --> 00:16:44,943
And so, for just
eight hectic weeks each year,
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00:16:45,176 --> 00:16:48,282
Everest base camp
becomes this thriving village.
101
00:16:50,710 --> 00:16:52,640
And in recent years,
overcrowding on Everest
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00:16:52,835 --> 00:16:55,303
has been the source
of a lot of controversy.
103
00:16:56,398 --> 00:17:00,071
It might just be the last place on Earth
you'd expect to find a traffic jam,
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00:17:00,264 --> 00:17:01,988
the top of the world, mount Everest.
105
00:17:02,089 --> 00:17:06,173
These archive images shows how line-up
cause long and unnecessary delays.
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00:17:06,233 --> 00:17:09,216
More than 4,000 climbers
have been to the top of Everest...
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00:17:09,240 --> 00:17:11,191
600 people do it in a good year.
108
00:17:11,379 --> 00:17:14,881
It has become a very necessary
part of the Nepalese economy.
109
00:17:15,307 --> 00:17:18,199
Expedition company charge up
to 100,000 dollars
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00:17:18,343 --> 00:17:19,963
to clients that want
to make the ascent.
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00:17:20,058 --> 00:17:22,600
Climbing Everest has become
a bucket list ambition
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00:17:22,798 --> 00:17:24,698
and a multi-million-dollar
industry.
113
00:17:25,058 --> 00:17:27,863
This is a, you know, big employer,
lots and lots of people.
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00:17:28,146 --> 00:17:29,806
There are more Sherpas
working on the mountain now
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00:17:29,973 --> 00:17:31,308
than there ever
have been in history.
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00:17:31,977 --> 00:17:33,950
But they only get
a small fraction of the pie.
117
00:17:34,252 --> 00:17:38,336
The Sherpa guys turn up to 5,000 dollars
for a two-month expedition.
118
00:17:38,841 --> 00:17:42,745
Ten times the average annual pay
in their isolated homeland.
119
00:17:44,625 --> 00:17:47,409
The whole Everest circus
just seems to get bigger and bigger
120
00:17:47,620 --> 00:17:49,424
and this season is no exception.
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00:17:49,620 --> 00:17:54,044
Russell Brice's team is just one of 38
expeditions on the mountain this year.
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00:17:54,704 --> 00:17:56,622
All these people have to be
looked after,
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00:17:56,917 --> 00:17:59,559
and all their equipment has
to be moved up the mountain.
124
00:18:00,641 --> 00:18:04,373
You have Google Maps
photographing the route to the summit.
125
00:18:04,681 --> 00:18:06,113
There's a Hollywood feature film.
126
00:18:06,366 --> 00:18:07,924
There's even a guy in a wingsuit
127
00:18:08,056 --> 00:18:10,962
trying to jump off the top
and fly all the way down.
128
00:18:11,067 --> 00:18:14,284
So, we're here to put up one
of the most ambitious television project
129
00:18:14,297 --> 00:18:16,228
in the history of the media world.
130
00:18:16,601 --> 00:18:17,931
So I hope you find down here
131
00:18:18,172 --> 00:18:20,047
and we're gonna broadcasting
your own life.
132
00:18:20,287 --> 00:18:23,641
There's a reason that Superman movies,
Batman movies and Spiderman,
133
00:18:23,785 --> 00:18:25,549
all these superhero are so popular.
134
00:18:25,898 --> 00:18:27,621
I can do what those guys can do.
135
00:18:27,771 --> 00:18:31,384
It's kind of daft,
but in the world of adventure,
136
00:18:31,564 --> 00:18:34,167
people are always thinking
of new crazy things to do.
137
00:18:34,927 --> 00:18:36,474
It's part of the deal now
138
00:18:36,703 --> 00:18:39,032
is that they're all kinds
of strange notions
139
00:18:39,304 --> 00:18:41,897
of what can be done on Everest
simply to attract attention.
140
00:18:42,809 --> 00:18:44,756
One, two, three.
141
00:19:21,496 --> 00:19:24,077
The way these commercial
expeditions climb Everest
142
00:19:24,175 --> 00:19:26,798
is to establish a series
of higher and higher camps,
143
00:19:28,165 --> 00:19:29,871
stocking them
over a period of weeks
144
00:19:30,123 --> 00:19:32,135
with everything required
to give the clients
145
00:19:32,390 --> 00:19:34,624
the best chance
of reaching the summit.
146
00:19:46,096 --> 00:19:49,250
The government doesn't permit equipment
to be flown up the mountain.
147
00:19:49,305 --> 00:19:51,795
So everything that goes into
building these camps
148
00:19:52,008 --> 00:19:53,614
has to be carried.
149
00:20:01,478 --> 00:20:03,506
And it's the Sherpas
that do that work,
150
00:20:05,138 --> 00:20:08,711
including going through
what is its most dangerous section.
151
00:20:25,285 --> 00:20:27,136
If you want to climb Everest
from the south,
152
00:20:27,328 --> 00:20:29,682
you have to go through
the Khumbu icefall.
153
00:20:32,043 --> 00:20:34,918
It's the route top Everest
most commercial operators prefer
154
00:20:35,361 --> 00:20:38,879
partly 'cause of political uncertainties
on the northern side of the mountain
155
00:20:38,903 --> 00:20:41,432
into that, which they'd rather avoid.
156
00:20:43,071 --> 00:20:45,423
The Khumbu icefall
is like a waterfall of ice
157
00:20:45,655 --> 00:20:47,306
coming out of the Western col.
158
00:20:47,883 --> 00:20:49,333
There is nowhere else
in the world
159
00:20:49,529 --> 00:20:52,350
that a mountaineer wouldo go
through an icefall like this.
160
00:20:53,776 --> 00:20:57,279
But because it's the only access
on the south side to Everest,
161
00:20:57,569 --> 00:21:01,690
then people would do
walk through this jumble of ice.
162
00:21:03,352 --> 00:21:05,457
The problem with the icefall
is that it's uncontrollable.
163
00:21:06,171 --> 00:21:08,626
All the other aspects of the mountain
that are dangerous
164
00:21:08,907 --> 00:21:11,714
have, you know, in terms of safety,
have been improved over the years.
165
00:21:13,556 --> 00:21:16,226
But the icefall remains,
you know, perilous.
166
00:22:07,119 --> 00:22:09,222
There are threats
from every direction.
167
00:22:34,639 --> 00:22:37,677
Not only that, there are
big blocks of ice falling down
168
00:22:37,979 --> 00:22:39,881
without warning from above.
169
00:22:52,361 --> 00:22:56,449
You're asking men to go to work
in a very dangerous environment.
170
00:22:59,889 --> 00:23:02,675
And it's becoming more so
as the seracs,
171
00:23:02,807 --> 00:23:05,449
these giant blocks of glacial ice,
172
00:23:05,846 --> 00:23:08,638
are affected by the forces
of climate change.
173
00:23:10,055 --> 00:23:11,478
They're dropping off more readily
174
00:23:11,702 --> 00:23:14,275
and people are going
to get caught more often.
175
00:23:17,879 --> 00:23:20,444
So you know that
this is a perilous moment,
176
00:23:20,756 --> 00:23:22,537
going through the icefall.
177
00:23:31,957 --> 00:23:35,333
And it's not just once or twice
the Sherpas have to go through it.
178
00:23:35,763 --> 00:23:37,834
It's up to 30 trips per season,
179
00:23:38,412 --> 00:23:42,229
as compared to about
two or three for most foreigners.
180
00:24:08,111 --> 00:24:11,293
I'm totally shit scared every time
I send the Sherpas up in the mountain.
181
00:24:12,008 --> 00:24:13,558
It's like sending them off
to war.
182
00:24:13,810 --> 00:24:15,098
I don't know
who's gonna come home.
183
00:24:15,358 --> 00:24:16,760
If there's an accident
in the icefall,
184
00:24:16,968 --> 00:24:19,158
are we gonna lose one,
are we gonna lose two?
185
00:24:19,266 --> 00:24:20,660
Are we gonna lose six people?
186
00:24:20,969 --> 00:24:23,356
Because the potential is there.
187
00:24:26,343 --> 00:24:27,307
And the question is...
188
00:24:28,176 --> 00:24:30,648
what is the moral
justification for that?
189
00:24:30,968 --> 00:24:33,903
You know, what reward is there
for you to play
190
00:24:34,174 --> 00:24:36,729
what is essentially
a game of russian roulette?
191
00:24:39,109 --> 00:24:44,442
In 2012 I determined
the mountain to be dangerous.
192
00:24:47,268 --> 00:24:50,770
Every night I listen to the Sherpas
on the radio going through the icefall.
193
00:24:51,555 --> 00:24:55,244
And all the time they're running away
from small avalanches.
194
00:24:55,548 --> 00:24:58,331
Lots of ice falling down,
things like that.
195
00:25:01,452 --> 00:25:04,908
So I made the decision
to cancel my expedition.
196
00:25:05,299 --> 00:25:07,161
That's an incredibly hard thing to do
197
00:25:07,833 --> 00:25:10,747
to cancel a commercial expedition.
198
00:25:12,877 --> 00:25:14,664
There were people around
199
00:25:15,123 --> 00:25:17,564
who said:
"Russell is a bit of a chump here
200
00:25:17,796 --> 00:25:19,146
because his clients will be pissed off
201
00:25:19,313 --> 00:25:22,234
because they went home
and other people got to the top.
202
00:25:23,054 --> 00:25:26,530
I thing Russell Brice was really full
into perspective
203
00:25:26,790 --> 00:25:30,706
the risks that people
were making the Sherpas take.
204
00:25:31,588 --> 00:25:35,203
Now Russell has four of those clients
returning this year.
205
00:25:35,358 --> 00:25:39,381
So that adds a lot of pressure
for a successfull expedition.
206
00:26:06,376 --> 00:26:08,316
Tenzing Norgay was a man
207
00:26:08,499 --> 00:26:11,156
who was determined
to change his stars.
208
00:26:13,598 --> 00:26:16,630
And when he reached the summit
of Everest, he did that.
209
00:26:18,379 --> 00:26:21,445
The British couldn't have done it
with someone like Tenzing.
210
00:26:21,706 --> 00:26:24,173
He'd been to the mountain
seven times by that point,
211
00:26:24,395 --> 00:26:26,877
and they benefited it from all
those years of his experience,
212
00:26:27,050 --> 00:26:30,901
but he wasn't acknowledged.
He wasn't given due regard
213
00:26:31,516 --> 00:26:33,322
for what he had achieved.
214
00:26:33,808 --> 00:26:35,646
Coming down from that,
almost immediately,
215
00:26:35,854 --> 00:26:38,775
he finds himself
in a political firestorm.
216
00:26:39,063 --> 00:26:40,268
Who got to the top first?
217
00:26:41,168 --> 00:26:43,771
To anybody who climbs mountains,
to any mountaineer,
218
00:26:43,987 --> 00:26:45,917
and I feel to thousands of others,
219
00:26:46,165 --> 00:26:48,785
the matter couldn't matter less.
220
00:26:49,248 --> 00:26:51,535
When Tenzing Norgay
was asked how he felt,
221
00:26:51,711 --> 00:26:53,718
his chilly answers
had to be interpreted.
222
00:26:58,724 --> 00:27:00,108
He's very happy.
223
00:27:05,403 --> 00:27:08,011
All this, and the George Medal too.
224
00:27:08,344 --> 00:27:10,229
So John Hunt became
Sir John Hunt,
225
00:27:10,395 --> 00:27:12,111
Hillary became Sir Ed Hillary,
226
00:27:13,227 --> 00:27:15,320
and Tenzing got the George Medal.
227
00:27:15,550 --> 00:27:18,643
Now, there is a superior award
to that, the George Cross.
228
00:27:19,103 --> 00:27:21,590
So it's kind of like
a second-level award.
229
00:27:21,788 --> 00:27:23,787
It was just not right.
230
00:27:24,461 --> 00:27:26,354
So in the eyes of Sherpas,
231
00:27:26,620 --> 00:27:28,220
in the eyes of people in India,
232
00:27:28,480 --> 00:27:31,621
in the eyes of most Asians,
they felt somewhat slighted
233
00:27:31,753 --> 00:27:33,927
that he would not get
the same kind of recognition
234
00:27:34,095 --> 00:27:36,106
that his partners got on Everest.
235
00:27:37,232 --> 00:27:40,120
My father said:
"I wish I never climbed this mountain."
236
00:27:54,939 --> 00:27:56,745
He was immensely proud
of what he had achieved,
237
00:27:57,343 --> 00:28:01,019
but I think he felt
thwarted in a way.
238
00:28:01,123 --> 00:28:03,669
I think he felt
that he hadn't realized himself
239
00:28:03,861 --> 00:28:05,368
in the way
that he would have liked.
240
00:28:05,713 --> 00:28:07,883
I think partly it's because,
you know,
241
00:28:07,907 --> 00:28:10,162
he lacked a formal education.
242
00:28:17,079 --> 00:28:21,044
The 60-year-old reputation of what it is
to be a Sherpa is changing.
243
00:28:21,488 --> 00:28:22,947
Now, you go to base camp
244
00:28:23,131 --> 00:28:26,071
and more than 80% of Sherpas
finish their high school.
245
00:28:26,305 --> 00:28:29,270
And if you go 20 years ago,
none of them have been to high school.
246
00:28:29,527 --> 00:28:31,981
Because of their education,
they know a lot more
247
00:28:32,316 --> 00:28:34,472
than Western clients
think they do.
248
00:28:36,153 --> 00:28:37,859
Now with the Facebook generation,
249
00:28:38,373 --> 00:28:41,960
Sherpas see how much credit
Westerners are getting
250
00:28:42,215 --> 00:28:43,638
for a climb on Everest
251
00:28:43,761 --> 00:28:46,307
and they know that they've done
most of the grunt work.
252
00:28:46,785 --> 00:28:49,405
Without the Sherpa, the Westerner
would never have gotten there.
253
00:28:49,634 --> 00:28:54,253
They are dissatisfied with that and want
equal credit for what they have done.
254
00:28:56,249 --> 00:28:58,321
What we've seen in recent years
is a...
255
00:28:59,073 --> 00:29:03,144
a tendency of aggression
256
00:29:05,143 --> 00:29:06,410
from younger Sherpas.
257
00:29:06,644 --> 00:29:10,324
So, last year,
there was fighting on Everest
258
00:29:11,763 --> 00:29:13,498
and I think we were
all disappointed.
259
00:29:13,697 --> 00:29:15,210
So sad about that.
260
00:29:18,389 --> 00:29:21,318
Dozens of people risk their lives every
year trying to climb Mount Everest.
261
00:29:21,462 --> 00:29:23,725
This morning, some of them say
they nearly died in a brawl.
262
00:29:24,041 --> 00:29:26,546
Man versus the mountain
to man versus man.
263
00:29:27,742 --> 00:29:30,316
Three top European climbers
had to flee for their lives.
264
00:29:30,461 --> 00:29:32,890
The highest altitude
scrap in history.
265
00:29:33,080 --> 00:29:36,021
- They just tried to kill us.
- The Sherpas have tried to kill you?
266
00:29:36,377 --> 00:29:38,611
It's all unfolded near the summit
267
00:29:38,635 --> 00:29:41,525
at an altitude
of roughly 22,000 feet.
268
00:29:42,286 --> 00:29:44,904
You have a European
calling a Sherpa a motherfucker,
269
00:29:45,086 --> 00:29:48,839
which is, in Nepal particularly,
culturally insensitive.
270
00:29:50,477 --> 00:29:52,746
Yeah, I copy that.
I know what word is.
271
00:29:53,104 --> 00:29:54,895
I don't like that word either.
272
00:29:55,076 --> 00:29:59,139
Sherpas, usually help Westerners
summit, turn against them.
273
00:30:00,310 --> 00:30:03,946
I'm sorry. I'm sorry
for all what I said.
274
00:30:05,407 --> 00:30:09,642
All the words that came out
from my mouth was wrong.
275
00:30:09,951 --> 00:30:11,484
I am sorry.
276
00:30:12,077 --> 00:30:13,487
Yes.
277
00:30:15,027 --> 00:30:16,598
Please. Please, no violence.
278
00:30:16,932 --> 00:30:18,689
- No.
- He came to apologize.
279
00:30:18,967 --> 00:30:20,434
I'm sorry for this.
280
00:30:22,656 --> 00:30:25,155
- Please, no violence. Listen.
- He's very sorry.
281
00:30:28,963 --> 00:30:30,779
Inside, inside.
282
00:30:34,215 --> 00:30:36,176
It's not clear whether the fight
was something personal
283
00:30:36,438 --> 00:30:38,562
or reflected
a greater discontent.
284
00:30:39,415 --> 00:30:41,630
Please, no violence. Please!
285
00:31:04,944 --> 00:31:07,382
It's about Sherpas
no longer feeling
286
00:31:07,795 --> 00:31:11,548
that they have to be subservient
or deferent to Western climbers
287
00:31:11,973 --> 00:31:15,688
and not playing out that role
of the faithful servant anymore.
288
00:31:16,105 --> 00:31:18,953
Not being the kind of nice, friendly,
smiley person in the background.
289
00:31:19,097 --> 00:31:22,589
Just saying, "Actually, you know what?
We're as good as you."
290
00:31:23,059 --> 00:31:26,875
I'm a little afraid
where it's going to lead in the future.
291
00:31:27,057 --> 00:31:29,488
It's too hard.
The tension is too hard.
292
00:31:29,666 --> 00:31:31,456
The worry is too hard.
293
00:31:31,765 --> 00:31:34,451
And I'm getting too old for that.
294
00:31:49,291 --> 00:31:52,602
- Good morning.
- Good morning, Mount Everest.
295
00:31:52,886 --> 00:31:54,594
Hot towel.
296
00:31:57,576 --> 00:31:58,831
Tea?
297
00:32:00,766 --> 00:32:03,313
Roughin' it on Mount Everest.
298
00:32:03,710 --> 00:32:05,702
Hot towels
and tea in the morning.
299
00:32:19,387 --> 00:32:21,380
Can I have a tea
with no sugar, please?
300
00:34:41,630 --> 00:34:44,078
The reason Everest
takes eight weeks to climb
301
00:34:44,226 --> 00:34:47,992
is that the body needs to slowly
acclimatize to the altitude.
302
00:34:55,497 --> 00:34:57,832
We do our acclimatization
on Lobuche Peak
303
00:34:57,976 --> 00:34:59,852
to stay out of the icefall,
304
00:35:00,373 --> 00:35:03,003
to reduce the risk for our clients.
305
00:35:04,745 --> 00:35:06,538
And so when, you know,
Russell Brice starts
306
00:35:06,960 --> 00:35:08,692
getting his clients
to camp on top of, you know,
307
00:35:08,926 --> 00:35:11,890
a nearby peak rather than going
through the icefall to acclimatize,
308
00:35:12,073 --> 00:35:13,263
you know, that makes sense.
309
00:35:14,373 --> 00:35:17,353
The fewer trips anyone
has to make through the icefall,
310
00:35:17,578 --> 00:35:18,800
the better.
311
00:35:20,175 --> 00:35:23,870
Meanwhile, the Sherpas are still
stocking the camps on Everest,
312
00:35:24,069 --> 00:35:26,191
making dozens
of trips up and down,
313
00:35:26,383 --> 00:35:29,514
carrying all the oxygen,
the tents, the food, so on.
314
00:35:29,959 --> 00:35:33,587
So that the mountain is ready
to be climbed when the clients return.
315
00:35:34,956 --> 00:35:38,690
This year, my clients
will go through the icefall twice,
316
00:35:39,427 --> 00:35:43,983
but I daresay most of the Sherpas
will go through maybe 20 to 30 times.
317
00:35:45,030 --> 00:35:48,008
And I'm not sure
the clients actually ever see that.
318
00:35:48,420 --> 00:35:50,722
That was a nice day for a climb.
319
00:36:49,364 --> 00:36:51,852
I think a lot of people,
even on our trips,
320
00:36:52,845 --> 00:36:54,487
don't really understand
321
00:36:54,962 --> 00:36:57,846
all this work
is going on every night.
322
00:36:57,939 --> 00:37:01,803
Loads of equipment going up
to support them on the mountain.
323
00:37:09,510 --> 00:37:12,143
But now we have to start
the real job of why we're here.
324
00:37:12,890 --> 00:37:14,321
And that's going up
through the mountain.
325
00:37:14,588 --> 00:37:16,449
Safety is very, very important.
326
00:37:16,707 --> 00:37:18,574
If you go through the icefall
without crampons,
327
00:37:18,852 --> 00:37:21,147
if you go through the icefall
without clipping on,
328
00:37:21,457 --> 00:37:23,742
I'm gonna sack you.
You're gonna go home.
329
00:37:25,587 --> 00:37:29,383
It must seen crazy going through
the Khumbu icefall in the dark,
330
00:37:29,710 --> 00:37:33,667
but it's actually much safer, because
it's more stable in the colded night.
331
00:37:33,907 --> 00:37:37,539
Once the sun hits,
it becomes increasingly dangerous.
332
00:37:37,815 --> 00:37:41,383
You have to remember
that you have a big responsibility
333
00:37:41,653 --> 00:37:44,351
not only for your own safety,
but for your family.
334
00:37:46,714 --> 00:37:49,695
Even if it's a full moon,
you must have your headlamp.
335
00:37:50,939 --> 00:37:52,915
The transceivers
must be turned on here
336
00:37:53,383 --> 00:37:54,603
and you must use the transceiver
337
00:37:54,660 --> 00:37:56,529
every day that you go through
the icefall.
338
00:37:57,741 --> 00:37:59,825
We know if a serac
falls on top of you
339
00:38:00,058 --> 00:38:03,890
you're not going to survive,
but if you have a transceiver,
340
00:38:04,138 --> 00:38:08,257
it means to find you
will take much less time.
341
00:38:08,835 --> 00:38:11,610
And so that puts the people
doing the rescue
342
00:38:11,868 --> 00:38:13,479
at much less risk.
343
00:42:39,808 --> 00:42:43,229
There at least five out here
that are out of the danger zone
344
00:42:43,589 --> 00:42:46,583
and there's another four or five
I can see
345
00:42:47,223 --> 00:42:49,330
that are still in the depths
of the icefall.
346
00:43:00,296 --> 00:43:04,650
Update from icefall: 13 or 14 missing.
Not sure what team they're from.
347
00:43:04,871 --> 00:43:06,895
Phil, are all your boys okay?
348
00:43:10,726 --> 00:43:14,882
Phil, I can't hear you, but are
all your boys okay? Just say yes or no.
349
00:43:18,279 --> 00:43:19,551
Thumbs up. Okay. Thanks.
350
00:43:19,617 --> 00:43:21,814
Get all the ropes you can find.
Russ, where's that...
351
00:43:21,994 --> 00:43:23,353
A.C. and A.A.I.
352
00:43:25,333 --> 00:43:30,020
Dawa Sherpa, A.C. Sherpa,
and A.A.I. Sherpa.
353
00:43:30,459 --> 00:43:32,101
Shit, no.
354
00:43:41,602 --> 00:43:42,853
I'm not aware of numbers,
355
00:43:42,995 --> 00:43:45,002
but it's significant amounts.
356
00:43:46,036 --> 00:43:47,638
It's in the tens.
357
00:43:56,437 --> 00:43:58,423
- Keep that with you.
- Okay.
358
00:44:02,087 --> 00:44:04,472
Definitely bring the long line
from Kathmandu.
359
00:44:04,713 --> 00:44:06,671
Cheers. Cia-ciao. Bye.
360
00:44:06,754 --> 00:44:10,714
There's three dead, one severely
injured, needs to be helicoptered.
361
00:44:10,970 --> 00:44:13,555
Put these steel shovels,
get them all together.
362
00:44:16,222 --> 00:44:18,189
We want that sked.
363
00:44:20,661 --> 00:44:21,649
The oxygen.
364
00:44:21,843 --> 00:44:24,304
We're gonna want to be bringin' em down
from the scene if we can't fly them out.
365
00:44:25,445 --> 00:44:27,201
For the beginning of the season,
fucking A.
366
00:44:27,285 --> 00:44:29,097
- Yeah.
- Fuck.
367
00:44:40,841 --> 00:44:43,957
The collect that goes up
gets some oxygen
368
00:44:44,559 --> 00:44:45,774
and you go second load.
369
00:44:47,541 --> 00:44:49,185
One of my guys is very serious.
370
00:44:49,776 --> 00:44:54,510
So I think we're to bring him down fast,
as soon as possible.
371
00:44:55,343 --> 00:44:56,679
Because he's alive now.
372
00:44:56,703 --> 00:44:58,794
Yeah, yeah. We'll try.
373
00:44:59,016 --> 00:45:00,298
My doctor here waiting.
374
00:45:01,715 --> 00:45:03,510
But we need sked.
We need all that.
375
00:45:03,610 --> 00:45:05,835
We need the oxygen
up there first flight.
376
00:45:06,538 --> 00:45:09,143
I think what we're trying to do
is you and I in the first load.
377
00:45:09,589 --> 00:45:11,895
I'll try and secure the helipad.
378
00:45:12,087 --> 00:45:13,292
- Yep.
- Get it crackin'.
379
00:45:13,375 --> 00:45:14,909
You do flight stuff,
I'll just do medical stuff.
380
00:45:15,132 --> 00:45:16,315
And you go down. Exactly.
381
00:45:20,034 --> 00:45:21,154
If you're gonna make me
in charge...
382
00:45:21,232 --> 00:45:22,957
- Yeah, yeah.
- ...please listen.
383
00:45:23,651 --> 00:45:26,099
Okay. I understand
you're mountain guides.
384
00:45:26,381 --> 00:45:27,294
I'm a mountain guide.
385
00:45:27,617 --> 00:45:30,640
We've all got friends
missing and dead.
386
00:45:30,905 --> 00:45:32,327
We know that, okay?
387
00:45:32,660 --> 00:45:34,699
We can't get everything up
on the first load.
388
00:45:38,678 --> 00:45:39,894
We want to send a doctor.
389
00:45:39,996 --> 00:45:42,284
- Doctor, and one Nepali guide.
- They're requesting a doctor.
390
00:45:42,476 --> 00:45:44,500
Doctor and one Nepali guide,
okay?
391
00:45:50,494 --> 00:45:51,891
Who are these people?
392
00:46:07,299 --> 00:46:10,137
Priority is being stabled
and Melissa on it.
393
00:46:10,227 --> 00:46:14,188
I think we've explained that Russell's
in charge of the helipad down here,
394
00:46:14,989 --> 00:46:17,361
which means Melissa and I
will be going first.
395
00:46:22,503 --> 00:46:24,738
Her victim is already packaged,
ready to go.
396
00:46:24,936 --> 00:46:26,291
Patient condition.
397
00:46:26,552 --> 00:46:28,857
He's fully conscious, responsive.
398
00:46:29,127 --> 00:46:32,133
But we're confused about how many
casualties there are now. Over.
399
00:46:32,305 --> 00:46:35,883
We don't have a casualty count now.
We're working on live bodies now.
400
00:46:41,437 --> 00:46:46,550
All Sherpas not needed,
now leave and come to base camp.
401
00:46:46,574 --> 00:46:48,032
It's starting to get hot.
402
00:46:51,119 --> 00:46:53,848
Jason's gonna go in,
try and land in upper site,
403
00:46:54,020 --> 00:46:56,378
pull that Sherpa off,
bring him down to helipad.
404
00:46:56,497 --> 00:46:59,250
Being switched to long line
going to your location.
405
00:46:59,384 --> 00:47:02,291
Dead-bag chasing
has landed at middle side. Over.
406
00:47:02,486 --> 00:47:04,961
There's a Sherpa with a head injury
and internal bleeding.
407
00:47:05,069 --> 00:47:07,510
They're gonna keep him there,
package him for a long line.
408
00:47:07,602 --> 00:47:10,484
Yeah, Michael just requested
as much rope as possible.
409
00:47:18,338 --> 00:47:21,773
There's a live patient with a query,
several fracture.
410
00:47:22,012 --> 00:47:24,837
Pulse looks good
call me from IMG. Over.
411
00:47:25,835 --> 00:47:27,596
Water in the right ear,
right arm bruising,
412
00:47:27,770 --> 00:47:30,180
upper left chest pain
descending with Eric.
413
00:47:34,548 --> 00:47:35,574
I need to confirm.
414
00:47:35,844 --> 00:47:38,736
Do we have any more injured
people to pick up or not?
415
00:47:39,012 --> 00:47:40,904
This is the last patient.
This is the last patient.
416
00:47:41,117 --> 00:47:45,027
And then we can switch to non-traumatic
body recovery flying down
417
00:47:45,105 --> 00:47:47,887
and we're gonna put an ECG
on them to check for rhythm. Over.
418
00:47:47,984 --> 00:47:50,585
I verify. You're absolutely
in embodered recovery.
419
00:47:50,900 --> 00:47:51,900
- Yes.
- Roger.
420
00:47:52,306 --> 00:47:53,859
Let's get this going.
421
00:49:27,605 --> 00:49:29,241
This is by far the worst tragedy
422
00:49:29,496 --> 00:49:31,064
that's ever happened on Everest.
423
00:49:32,156 --> 00:49:34,099
13 people have died this morning.
424
00:49:34,816 --> 00:49:37,477
And there may be more still
that we don't know about.
425
00:49:38,921 --> 00:49:40,995
There hasn't been a year
in history
426
00:49:41,194 --> 00:49:44,747
where 13 people have died
on Everest, let alone in one day.
427
00:49:44,999 --> 00:49:49,520
Michael has done an examination
on all bodies. No signs of life.
428
00:49:51,508 --> 00:49:52,618
I daresay...
429
00:49:53,657 --> 00:49:56,854
...this is the day
that we just all dreaded.
430
00:49:58,406 --> 00:49:59,863
How are you feelin'?
431
00:50:00,766 --> 00:50:01,981
Shattered.
432
00:50:07,646 --> 00:50:09,364
Every village will be affected.
433
00:50:10,203 --> 00:50:13,674
A lot of our guys
will have friends they know.
434
00:50:16,370 --> 00:50:19,203
There's people
from all over the Khumbu.
435
00:50:19,447 --> 00:50:21,894
We've been...
Young guys, young guys...
436
00:50:22,766 --> 00:50:24,363
This one of them I know...
437
00:50:25,052 --> 00:50:26,254
Just her baby, just...
438
00:50:52,175 --> 00:50:54,890
Now to the worst disaster
ever seen on Mount Everest.
439
00:50:54,998 --> 00:50:58,035
The avalanche hitted at about
6:30 this morning local time
440
00:50:58,311 --> 00:51:00,635
at one of the busiest times
of day on the mountain.
441
00:51:01,130 --> 00:51:03,019
...one-day toll reported
on the world's tallest mountain.
442
00:51:03,312 --> 00:51:05,902
The wall of snow crashed
on the Western shoulder...
443
00:51:07,145 --> 00:51:08,825
The death toll
is expected to rise to 16.
444
00:51:09,101 --> 00:51:12,600
Questions're been asked about the future
of this year's climbing season
445
00:51:12,736 --> 00:51:14,803
and whether attempts
will be made next month.
446
00:51:15,037 --> 00:51:17,518
This tragedy adds
to the death toll on Everest,
447
00:51:17,668 --> 00:51:19,873
which is already estimated at 250.
448
00:51:20,023 --> 00:51:21,852
A four-day halt to climbing
has been declared
449
00:51:22,067 --> 00:51:24,687
while the search
for the missing Sherpas goes on.
450
00:55:25,949 --> 00:55:26,959
You see the grief,
451
00:55:27,448 --> 00:55:29,483
and, you know,
that's going back decades.
452
00:55:29,696 --> 00:55:31,691
You know, these grieving
Sherpa families...
453
00:55:32,140 --> 00:55:36,607
this constant narrative of loss
being expressed again.
454
00:56:45,043 --> 00:56:48,264
This morning the search has been
suspended for three other people
455
00:56:48,401 --> 00:56:50,365
who are still missing
from mount Everest.
456
00:56:50,558 --> 00:56:53,761
Crews did manage to recover
a 13th body overnight.
457
00:56:55,370 --> 00:56:57,370
Two days ago, 16 people died,
458
00:56:57,494 --> 00:56:59,262
including about half of our team.
459
00:56:59,582 --> 00:57:03,222
This morning, I think the Sherpas
are taking matters into their own hands.
460
00:57:03,702 --> 00:57:05,919
They're holding a big meeting
at base camp.
461
00:57:06,330 --> 00:57:09,296
We've just been told
that the Sherpas are quite angry
462
00:57:10,191 --> 00:57:11,954
and we should get bags ready.
463
00:57:12,345 --> 00:57:14,244
Just in case
we have to make a swift exit.
464
00:57:15,041 --> 00:57:20,017
We don't know if the Sherpas are gonna
target us as a focus for their anger.
465
00:57:20,588 --> 00:57:24,623
Westerners coming here, and causing
such a kind of circus at times.
466
00:57:25,388 --> 00:57:27,606
I don't know if there's
any still lingering tension
467
00:57:27,777 --> 00:57:29,810
from last year
and the fights that broke out.
468
00:57:29,901 --> 00:57:32,231
We're hoping the same thing
doesn't happen again this year,
469
00:57:32,423 --> 00:57:35,420
but we're concerned about
filming here right now.
470
00:57:58,387 --> 00:58:00,689
16 people dying
at the same time...
471
00:58:00,981 --> 00:58:02,484
it's a huge, huge shock.
472
00:58:02,783 --> 00:58:04,167
When it started to sink in,
473
00:58:04,191 --> 00:58:08,187
the anger got distinctly pointed
at the government.
474
00:58:08,519 --> 00:58:10,904
They feel that the government
has always been benefiting
475
00:58:11,041 --> 00:58:14,053
off the labor of the Sherpas,
the lives of the Sherpas,
476
00:58:14,440 --> 00:58:16,184
and never put anything back.
477
00:58:16,902 --> 00:58:20,885
Nepal's tourism industry
is worth $360 million a year.
478
00:58:21,795 --> 00:58:24,471
So when the government offers
the families around $400,
479
00:58:24,731 --> 00:58:27,203
which isn't even enough to cover
their funeral expenses,
480
00:58:27,704 --> 00:58:30,266
grief turns to anger
very quickly.
481
00:58:38,599 --> 00:58:40,463
The government,
you know, once it figured out
482
00:58:40,528 --> 00:58:44,512
that it could sell Everest as many times
as it liked every year rather than once
483
00:58:44,888 --> 00:58:46,370
it's basically just sat there,
484
00:58:46,709 --> 00:58:48,559
occasionally twiddled
around the edges
485
00:58:49,091 --> 00:58:50,646
when there was
some bad headlines,
486
00:58:50,930 --> 00:58:53,447
but basically
not really done anything since.
487
00:58:53,668 --> 00:58:55,785
They've left it to Western,
you know, operators
488
00:58:55,984 --> 00:58:59,700
and just taken their cut every year,
and it's a big cut.
489
00:58:59,724 --> 00:59:00,899
It's like 1/3 of the money
490
00:59:00,941 --> 00:59:04,884
that stays in Nepal from this business
goes to the government.
491
00:59:16,000 --> 00:59:17,960
The Sherpas,
they're still taking the risks.
492
00:59:18,124 --> 00:59:20,600
They've always taken the risks.
They're still taking the risks.
493
00:59:20,952 --> 00:59:23,549
They quite reasonably
think that's outrageous.
494
00:59:33,588 --> 00:59:35,385
We worked really hard
this morning
495
00:59:35,916 --> 00:59:40,163
to send a letter to the ministry
496
00:59:41,698 --> 00:59:44,876
asking for better conditions
for these guys.
497
00:59:45,377 --> 00:59:47,180
I would have thought
that might preempt
498
00:59:47,321 --> 00:59:49,396
this type of meeting
this afternoon.
499
00:59:58,547 --> 01:00:01,502
Of course
we're upset about people dying,
500
01:00:03,978 --> 01:00:07,152
but this is irrational, you know?
It's totally irrational.
501
01:00:18,503 --> 01:00:21,825
I daresay they'd look
at the Arab Summer,
502
01:00:22,237 --> 01:00:26,285
and things like that, and think that
they can do the same sort of things.
503
01:00:26,393 --> 01:00:28,221
It's hotheaded young guys
504
01:00:28,312 --> 01:00:32,309
who really don't have very much
experience on this mountain in any case.
505
01:00:39,832 --> 01:00:41,614
They're angry, yes. They are.
506
01:01:05,687 --> 01:01:09,582
Their grandparents and their fathers
have worked hard in the Himalayas.
507
01:01:10,384 --> 01:01:13,370
All the hard work
has been done by the Sherpas,
508
01:01:14,088 --> 01:01:16,384
which is not fair.
509
01:01:17,365 --> 01:01:18,936
It is not fair.
510
01:01:57,089 --> 01:01:58,327
Every morning we wake up
511
01:01:58,398 --> 01:02:00,585
and we realize
that this is not a dream.
512
01:02:51,849 --> 01:02:54,247
I'm sorry.
I don't really know what to say.
513
01:02:55,439 --> 01:02:57,697
We had a day...
514
01:02:58,294 --> 01:03:00,656
We've been all expecting
an accident.
515
01:03:01,702 --> 01:03:05,501
And we had a bad day,
the day that we never, ever wanted.
516
01:03:06,516 --> 01:03:10,799
I'm afraid, every single day,
the boys go through the icefall.
517
01:03:11,407 --> 01:03:13,325
I fear every day,
518
01:03:14,351 --> 01:03:17,596
but, guys,
we also have to progress.
519
01:03:18,516 --> 01:03:21,144
We have to progress
for the future.
520
01:03:21,234 --> 01:03:25,682
Otherwise, you have no income
for your families.
521
01:03:43,360 --> 01:03:44,636
This is unprecedented
522
01:03:44,815 --> 01:03:47,905
that the Sherpas could contemplate
giving up a season's earning
523
01:03:48,150 --> 01:03:49,880
in order to make their point.
524
01:03:50,212 --> 01:03:53,454
One of the biggest request
from the workers in this base camp
525
01:03:53,802 --> 01:03:56,736
is to not continuing climbing this year.
526
01:03:58,124 --> 01:04:01,074
We know this is a great big ask
527
01:04:01,909 --> 01:04:06,183
but it's somewhat small
compared to the 16 lives
528
01:04:06,297 --> 01:04:07,883
we lost in these mountains.
529
01:04:08,159 --> 01:04:10,451
This is not workable for us.
530
01:04:11,057 --> 01:04:13,233
We've still got our Sherpas
to come to talk to,
531
01:04:13,487 --> 01:04:15,899
to see if we want
to carry on climbing or not.
532
01:04:16,786 --> 01:04:20,258
We can't have this happening every time,
there's an accident every season.
533
01:04:20,645 --> 01:04:21,835
It's getting out of control.
534
01:04:22,541 --> 01:04:26,331
We've been forced off this mountain
by renegade Sherpas.
535
01:04:26,740 --> 01:04:29,801
We only became
a democratic country in the '90s,
536
01:04:30,069 --> 01:04:33,023
so people feel like they have
more freedom of speech.
537
01:04:33,216 --> 01:04:37,486
So whenever they speak something
that is a bit more bold,
538
01:04:37,804 --> 01:04:40,717
it obviously takes the Western people
who are the base camp by surprise.
539
01:04:40,975 --> 01:04:42,186
They're saying what they think.
540
01:04:42,418 --> 01:04:45,329
They're not rebels.
They're just mountain guides.
541
01:04:46,569 --> 01:04:47,859
I'm asking for a helicopter
542
01:04:48,161 --> 01:04:49,581
to go to the ministry.
543
01:04:49,704 --> 01:04:52,876
The government has not taken
much notice in the past,
544
01:04:52,955 --> 01:04:54,462
so I think now's the time.
545
01:04:54,812 --> 01:04:57,961
I think we're confident
that we're gonna recover the situation,
546
01:04:58,912 --> 01:05:01,625
but only if we act right now.
547
01:05:16,279 --> 01:05:18,370
Good morning.
Well, it began as a tragedy
548
01:05:18,640 --> 01:05:21,002
and has now turned into
an avalanche of resentment
549
01:05:21,469 --> 01:05:23,472
that threatens
the entire Everest industry.
550
01:05:23,654 --> 01:05:25,992
Sherpa guys on Mount Everest
are staging a boycott
551
01:05:26,152 --> 01:05:29,178
that threatens to shut down
next month's climbing season.
552
01:05:30,920 --> 01:05:33,094
The issue
is why the Sherpa climbing guys,
553
01:05:33,265 --> 01:05:36,243
who assume a disproportionately
large part of the risk,
554
01:05:36,499 --> 01:05:39,409
get a disproportionately
small part of the take.
555
01:05:47,729 --> 01:05:49,624
I'd like to know a little bit
about what's going on, you know?
556
01:05:49,914 --> 01:05:53,731
We hear from...
Simon hears from the european papers
557
01:05:54,049 --> 01:05:56,749
that the season's over.
I hear from american media
558
01:05:57,023 --> 01:05:59,333
that there's a potential strike
559
01:05:59,562 --> 01:06:01,255
and there's still negotiating
going on, but...
560
01:06:01,597 --> 01:06:03,854
- We don't know anything, huh?
- Nothing.
561
01:06:03,878 --> 01:06:04,930
We can see it
562
01:06:05,453 --> 01:06:07,743
and yet we don't know
a fucking thing.
563
01:06:11,020 --> 01:06:14,044
He's paid for a helicopter
to come and take him
564
01:06:14,203 --> 01:06:16,615
so we can go talk to the people
that can make decisions.
565
01:06:17,955 --> 01:06:19,403
He's working on it
566
01:06:19,785 --> 01:06:21,721
and until those discussions
are over
567
01:06:21,963 --> 01:06:26,007
there's nothing but speculation,
which is exactly what we're doing.
568
01:06:26,849 --> 01:06:30,152
Sorry, guys. I mean, if I had more
information, I would give it to you.
569
01:06:30,251 --> 01:06:31,477
I'm going.
570
01:06:32,037 --> 01:06:34,159
There's an inherent risk
in mountaineering.
571
01:06:34,334 --> 01:06:35,891
There's an inherent risk
in Everest.
572
01:06:35,957 --> 01:06:37,965
There's an inherent risk
in the Khumbu. I know that.
573
01:06:38,235 --> 01:06:39,953
I'm willing to assume that risk.
574
01:06:40,928 --> 01:06:43,182
I think some of the clients
are getting a little restless,
575
01:06:43,206 --> 01:06:45,488
but I think we're in the right place
at the right time
576
01:06:45,764 --> 01:06:48,375
and we're still going forward
on our plan.
577
01:06:48,580 --> 01:06:53,182
So if the word is
"Yes, your crew will go with you,"
578
01:06:54,239 --> 01:06:55,726
we're still going forward.
579
01:07:04,987 --> 01:07:06,503
The future
of the Everest climbing season
580
01:07:06,677 --> 01:07:08,144
is hanging in the balance
this morning.
581
01:07:08,169 --> 01:07:11,818
Government officials are flying into
trying to ease tensions at base camp.
582
01:07:11,939 --> 01:07:15,252
There was a lot of expectations
surrounding the ministerial visit.
583
01:07:15,535 --> 01:07:18,816
The Sherpas hoped they would show
some leadership and cancel the season.
584
01:07:19,116 --> 01:07:22,103
The clients hoped the government
would agree to the Sherpa demands,
585
01:07:22,279 --> 01:07:24,085
so the season could continue.
586
01:08:58,826 --> 01:09:00,740
So, in failing to act decisively
587
01:09:01,058 --> 01:09:02,832
or take any kind
of official position,
588
01:09:03,075 --> 01:09:06,840
the government have left the Sherpas
between a rock and a hard place.
589
01:09:39,450 --> 01:09:42,142
...but just coming to base camp,
they don't make money.
590
01:09:42,704 --> 01:09:44,760
They make money on the mountain,
carrying loads up there.
591
01:09:45,078 --> 01:09:48,470
The higher they go, the more they carry,
the more they're paid.
592
01:09:49,397 --> 01:09:51,285
Just coming to base camp,
they make nothing.
593
01:09:51,309 --> 01:09:54,373
But for the last 61 years,
we've waited.
594
01:09:55,130 --> 01:09:58,039
Something had to happen
and then we had to raise our voice
595
01:09:58,393 --> 01:10:00,423
and to such a huge loss.
596
01:10:01,414 --> 01:10:03,589
They're ready
to face the consequences.
597
01:10:03,916 --> 01:10:05,921
They'd rather leave than die.
598
01:10:46,624 --> 01:10:48,813
I think many expedition
leaders found themselves
599
01:10:49,047 --> 01:10:51,054
in an incredibly difficult
position.
600
01:10:51,591 --> 01:10:54,152
Balancing the interests
of clients and the Sherpas
601
01:10:54,502 --> 01:10:57,846
in a situation like this
was never going to be easy.
602
01:10:59,684 --> 01:11:02,277
What happened
was really a tragic day, a black day.
603
01:11:02,613 --> 01:11:04,713
I feel still positive
604
01:11:04,941 --> 01:11:07,865
if we're gonna be allowed
to go up the mountain, you know,
605
01:11:08,114 --> 01:11:10,120
and continue the journey
and hopefully it's successful
606
01:11:10,342 --> 01:11:11,392
and, you know, life goes on,
607
01:11:11,601 --> 01:11:15,361
and just try to remember
the guys for what they were
608
01:11:15,457 --> 01:11:17,363
and carry a positive message.
609
01:11:17,552 --> 01:11:18,874
I knew the risks.
610
01:11:19,944 --> 01:11:22,730
From a personal point of view,
I was prepared to take that,
611
01:11:22,992 --> 01:11:26,961
but to ask the Sherpa boys
to go through it time and time again,
612
01:11:27,208 --> 01:11:28,903
it's a difficult one.
613
01:11:29,628 --> 01:11:30,784
It's hard just to...
614
01:11:34,828 --> 01:11:37,529
not to think about what happened
to all those families,
615
01:11:37,948 --> 01:11:39,100
those boys.
616
01:11:40,944 --> 01:11:43,051
They're doing it for us.
617
01:11:43,733 --> 01:11:47,752
But I put so much work into this
and effort.
618
01:11:49,541 --> 01:11:52,546
Then you start to justify it.
619
01:11:54,627 --> 01:11:57,629
- This is a deja-vu, isn't it, Jeff?
- Yes.
620
01:11:57,676 --> 01:11:58,707
We've been to this, you know?
621
01:11:58,726 --> 01:12:00,992
This was 2012.
622
01:12:01,083 --> 01:12:03,901
Actually what Russell feared
would happened in 2012
623
01:12:04,066 --> 01:12:05,787
is exactly what happened this year.
624
01:12:06,635 --> 01:12:09,819
To have to come back here a second
time only to get cancelled again
625
01:12:10,021 --> 01:12:12,410
and never given the shot is...
626
01:12:12,827 --> 01:12:14,312
yeah, that'll be...
627
01:12:15,390 --> 01:12:17,102
that'll be devastating at me, I think.
628
01:12:19,769 --> 01:12:21,140
As we reported earlier this week,
629
01:12:21,199 --> 01:12:24,436
Sherpas are leading a boycott
after that deadly avalanche.
630
01:12:24,460 --> 01:12:26,287
Starting to make climbing
for those
631
01:12:26,444 --> 01:12:29,349
who might want to continue
very, very challenging and difficult.
632
01:12:29,499 --> 01:12:33,127
Most of the climbers were forfeiting
the money they paid for the journey.
633
01:12:33,364 --> 01:12:36,201
That can top $75,000.
634
01:12:37,331 --> 01:12:39,638
I flew back again here
this morning
635
01:12:40,805 --> 01:12:46,141
to find that I'm probably
the last team to decide
636
01:12:46,282 --> 01:12:49,680
whether we're going to be continuing
on the mountain or not.
637
01:12:50,799 --> 01:12:52,273
Yes, we had one avalanche.
638
01:12:52,482 --> 01:12:54,153
Unfortunately,
it killed a lot of people,
639
01:12:54,467 --> 01:12:57,606
but that's no reason
to stop the expedition.
640
01:12:58,381 --> 01:13:00,870
Today, a delegation...
they came to the base camp
641
01:13:02,289 --> 01:13:04,145
to try and calm things down,
642
01:13:05,585 --> 01:13:08,358
but I'm afraid
it just escalated things.
643
01:13:08,833 --> 01:13:09,934
It didn't help.
644
01:13:10,217 --> 01:13:14,383
We know that there's only
a group of four or five guys
645
01:13:18,899 --> 01:13:20,156
that are causing this problem,
646
01:13:20,556 --> 01:13:23,629
but then they excite
300-odd guys
647
01:13:25,524 --> 01:13:29,690
and when you have mob rule,
what can we do?
648
01:13:30,382 --> 01:13:31,388
Effectively,
649
01:13:32,067 --> 01:13:35,351
what these militant Sherpas
are saying is...
650
01:13:35,686 --> 01:13:37,523
if our Sherpas
go through the icefall,
651
01:13:37,767 --> 01:13:39,801
they'll beat them up.
652
01:13:41,078 --> 01:13:44,772
Then we all know about
the fighting on Everest last year.
653
01:13:45,611 --> 01:13:50,549
We would hope that there
will be some form of punishment
654
01:13:51,172 --> 01:13:52,622
to these guys,
655
01:13:52,967 --> 01:13:56,307
or we need to get rid of them,
out of this system,
656
01:13:56,563 --> 01:13:57,656
so it doesn't happen again.
657
01:13:57,841 --> 01:14:00,158
You know who employs them, russ?
These four or five?
658
01:14:01,075 --> 01:14:04,268
I know who employs
some of them, yeah.
659
01:14:04,838 --> 01:14:06,399
And there's no way
you can talk to their owners
660
01:14:06,661 --> 01:14:09,200
I mean, if this
was one of your Sherpas,
661
01:14:09,286 --> 01:14:10,932
you could have them removed
from the mountain.
662
01:14:10,993 --> 01:14:12,993
Well, I would. Yes.
663
01:14:13,277 --> 01:14:14,033
So...
664
01:14:14,100 --> 01:14:15,912
But, yes...
665
01:14:20,034 --> 01:14:21,954
But I don't know how to do that.
666
01:14:24,224 --> 01:14:27,550
These people are totally irrational.
They don't care.
667
01:14:28,651 --> 01:14:31,128
Next week or next month,
they'll be at home
668
01:14:32,206 --> 01:14:34,406
with nothing to eat.
669
01:14:37,649 --> 01:14:39,422
We have one last chance
670
01:14:39,697 --> 01:14:43,137
as our Sherpas are still prepared
to go up the mountain.
671
01:14:44,127 --> 01:14:47,574
As far as I know,
our Sherpas want to climb.
672
01:14:47,895 --> 01:14:49,985
But they fear for their life.
673
01:14:50,078 --> 01:14:53,173
Phurba will be here
early tomorrow.
674
01:14:54,085 --> 01:14:56,546
We have to discuss everything
with him.
675
01:14:59,542 --> 01:15:02,928
So, sorry, guys. That's it.
676
01:16:01,459 --> 01:16:05,808
Sherpas are not people who express
their emotions very willingly.
677
01:16:07,196 --> 01:16:09,190
So it's sometimes hard
to read them.
678
01:16:09,455 --> 01:16:12,655
Lots of attention on you now.
679
01:16:14,596 --> 01:16:18,829
It's okay. Just relax.
Let's have a cup of tea first, huh?
680
01:16:57,467 --> 01:16:59,286
So, how's everyone at home?
681
01:17:01,152 --> 01:17:02,235
Upset?
682
01:17:02,259 --> 01:17:03,742
- A bit upset.
- Yeah.
683
01:17:04,337 --> 01:17:05,670
I know. Just...
684
01:17:05,989 --> 01:17:08,655
understandably,
you know.
685
01:17:11,068 --> 01:17:12,861
And wives.
How do wives feel?
686
01:17:13,594 --> 01:17:17,564
Don't want you coming or...
how they want, how they say?
687
01:17:18,321 --> 01:17:22,150
They are happy that we're back,
but they're still...
688
01:17:23,561 --> 01:17:25,634
...afraid, too,
that we're going back again.
689
01:17:25,826 --> 01:17:27,620
Yeah. I'm sure.
690
01:17:28,428 --> 01:17:30,590
- We're all afraid.
- Yeah.
691
01:17:33,352 --> 01:17:35,330
We're all afraid, Phurba.
692
01:17:35,938 --> 01:17:37,500
So...
693
01:17:37,726 --> 01:17:39,178
what to do?
694
01:17:41,779 --> 01:17:43,036
Want to go north side?
695
01:17:43,269 --> 01:17:44,859
- Still very risky.
- Huh?
696
01:17:49,478 --> 01:17:52,884
There's risk every time.
Doesn't matter where we go.
697
01:17:56,827 --> 01:17:58,400
So...
698
01:18:01,653 --> 01:18:03,817
I understand how you feel.
699
01:18:04,375 --> 01:18:06,211
You want to climb,
700
01:18:06,629 --> 01:18:10,795
but you also have respect
for the people and everything.
701
01:18:11,976 --> 01:18:17,284
Although, I checked with
all the Buddhists and Hindu.
702
01:18:18,011 --> 01:18:21,224
You know, if we respect,
703
01:18:21,254 --> 01:18:24,120
then we can carry on
doing our work,
704
01:18:25,946 --> 01:18:27,631
but what we feel here
705
01:18:27,854 --> 01:18:31,352
is danger for you
from other Sherpa.
706
01:18:31,697 --> 01:18:33,061
Did you hear anything
about that?
707
01:18:33,324 --> 01:18:35,550
- No, I didn't.
- Didn't hear that?
708
01:18:41,296 --> 01:18:44,652
So, for me,
I feel afraid for you.
709
01:18:44,889 --> 01:18:49,090
We feel danger for you guys
if you carry on climbing,
710
01:18:49,475 --> 01:18:54,184
but maybe later
some violence to you...
711
01:18:55,553 --> 01:18:57,382
How you feel about that?
712
01:18:58,923 --> 01:19:01,552
'Cause this is not normal Sherpa.
713
01:19:07,125 --> 01:19:08,711
How do you guys feel?
714
01:19:14,014 --> 01:19:16,036
Maybe you're angry with me.
715
01:19:16,108 --> 01:19:18,236
And if you're angry,
then you have to tell me, but...
716
01:19:20,197 --> 01:19:21,510
You know.
717
01:19:21,707 --> 01:19:24,746
I think pressure
coming from outside...
718
01:19:26,055 --> 01:19:27,604
and I'm afraid for you.
719
01:19:28,121 --> 01:19:32,335
So, I think we have
to stop expedition. You agree?
720
01:19:33,129 --> 01:19:34,989
- You agree to stop expedition?
- Yeah.
721
01:19:35,484 --> 01:19:37,053
- Everyone?
- Yes.
722
01:19:38,328 --> 01:19:40,823
So I have to tell
the members like that?
723
01:19:42,805 --> 01:19:47,604
I don't want, but also, if just us,
724
01:19:47,731 --> 01:19:50,190
how can I afford all the rope?
725
01:19:50,414 --> 01:19:53,506
Because I have to buy
from expedition operators.
726
01:19:54,365 --> 01:19:59,154
So, for me, I can't afford just us.
727
01:20:00,124 --> 01:20:05,099
Before it was always friendly,
smiling Sherpa, always helping.
728
01:20:05,393 --> 01:20:08,366
These guys have spoiled
your reputation.
729
01:20:15,698 --> 01:20:17,020
Okay.
730
01:20:17,438 --> 01:20:18,852
What to do now?
731
01:20:19,355 --> 01:20:21,885
I have to go and tell members
we're finished.
732
01:20:22,144 --> 01:20:24,100
You know, my prayers are with you.
733
01:20:25,301 --> 01:20:26,632
Sad.
734
01:20:45,072 --> 01:20:46,792
Glad you're okay.
735
01:21:23,616 --> 01:21:26,827
So, as I told you last night,
736
01:21:27,089 --> 01:21:29,464
it's unlikely that we would continue
737
01:21:29,912 --> 01:21:33,006
and the Sherpas
feel under too much threat.
738
01:21:34,005 --> 01:21:36,321
They've already been told
if they go through icefall
739
01:21:36,597 --> 01:21:38,226
they'll break their legs.
740
01:21:39,090 --> 01:21:40,198
So...
741
01:21:41,407 --> 01:21:43,712
This is the word
that comes to them
742
01:21:44,361 --> 01:21:46,715
that these other guys up here
743
01:21:46,867 --> 01:21:49,201
will break their legs
if they go through the icefall.
744
01:21:50,782 --> 01:21:51,926
Yes, they want to climb.
745
01:21:52,466 --> 01:21:54,250
Out of respect,
they don't want to climb
746
01:21:54,389 --> 01:21:57,019
and, out of fear,
they don't want to climb.
747
01:21:58,719 --> 01:22:00,465
Not fear of the mountain.
748
01:22:00,767 --> 01:22:02,117
Fear of the people.
749
01:22:02,534 --> 01:22:06,320
So there you go, guys. What can I say?
And I don't know what to do.
750
01:22:06,518 --> 01:22:07,932
And Phurba
doesn't know what to do.
751
01:22:08,455 --> 01:22:10,277
And we're pissed off.
752
01:22:11,149 --> 01:22:14,916
We're angry that these people
are ruining our business,
753
01:22:15,981 --> 01:22:17,671
You know? Their business.
754
01:22:17,839 --> 01:22:19,329
What can we do?
755
01:22:20,326 --> 01:22:22,561
I don't know how
to apologize to you.
756
01:22:24,006 --> 01:22:26,297
I don't know how to do that.
757
01:22:26,563 --> 01:22:28,709
Especially the people
that've come twice.
758
01:22:37,294 --> 01:22:38,745
Okay.
759
01:22:38,977 --> 01:22:41,611
So, now how to get out of here?
760
01:22:41,791 --> 01:22:43,389
Essentially,
we were just given the news
761
01:22:45,005 --> 01:22:46,733
that the Sherpas' legs
would be broken
762
01:22:46,773 --> 01:22:52,003
if they were to help us
763
01:22:53,282 --> 01:22:54,561
get up this mountain.
764
01:22:55,120 --> 01:22:57,223
How can you possibly argue
with that one?
765
01:22:57,331 --> 01:23:00,403
Being held captive by terrorists,
is how I look at it.
766
01:23:00,646 --> 01:23:03,577
I mean,
when people demand change
767
01:23:03,868 --> 01:23:07,114
and threaten it by violence,
that's a terrorist, you know?
768
01:23:07,338 --> 01:23:10,020
And we in the States,
we know what that is, after 9/11.
769
01:23:10,963 --> 01:23:13,549
We've got a group here
that's terrorizing base camp.
770
01:23:15,536 --> 01:23:17,474
How do you anticipate that,
you know?
771
01:23:18,716 --> 01:23:22,383
How do you mentally prepare yourself
to get up here and then be turned away
772
01:23:22,625 --> 01:23:24,733
because a group of terrorists
are demanding
773
01:23:24,977 --> 01:23:27,389
that Westerners leave base camp?
774
01:23:28,350 --> 01:23:31,776
You know, it's hard.
775
01:23:31,901 --> 01:23:33,960
Do I have for the third time
776
01:23:34,183 --> 01:23:36,097
to try to come back and do Everest?
777
01:23:36,597 --> 01:23:39,126
I've got to go talk to my family,
I think, before
778
01:23:39,498 --> 01:23:41,673
I make any final decision.
779
01:23:42,363 --> 01:23:46,143
I certainly would like to get to the top
of the highest mountain in the world
780
01:23:47,780 --> 01:23:51,560
and be able to provide that legacy
to my family as something they...
781
01:23:52,676 --> 01:23:54,635
Now you got me.
782
01:23:59,007 --> 01:24:02,766
We'll be back hopefully next year.
783
01:24:03,044 --> 01:24:06,622
One way or another, I'll tack
the top of that mountain at some point.
784
01:24:07,701 --> 01:24:10,042
So just a slight setback.
785
01:24:10,400 --> 01:24:12,430
I'm gonna feel better
when I go home knowing
786
01:24:12,821 --> 01:24:14,672
knowing that we didn't climb up
that mountain
787
01:24:14,834 --> 01:24:16,841
after the big tragedy.
788
01:24:17,152 --> 01:24:20,700
It's just better to show my respect
for the Sherpa community by leaving.
789
01:24:21,955 --> 01:24:23,798
I think the expedition organizers
790
01:24:24,079 --> 01:24:26,824
they knew in their heart
what their Sherpa wants,
791
01:24:27,138 --> 01:24:29,511
but they couldn't tell
that clearly to their clients.
792
01:24:30,369 --> 01:24:32,261
It's just the excuses
they are using
793
01:24:32,536 --> 01:24:35,054
to throw the blame
on somebody else, yeah.
794
01:24:53,161 --> 01:24:55,848
If this didn't change anything,
then nothing ever will.
795
01:24:57,779 --> 01:25:00,709
Then Nepal will just be
like the wild, wild West
796
01:25:00,985 --> 01:25:03,724
for the Western operators
to do whatever they want.
797
01:25:05,544 --> 01:25:07,138
This thing has happened,
which is a sad thing,
798
01:25:07,343 --> 01:25:11,062
but hopefully this will bring
something positive into the mountain.
799
01:25:11,613 --> 01:25:13,762
It must have some effect
on the Everest industry
800
01:25:14,852 --> 01:25:16,261
the accident this year.
801
01:25:17,677 --> 01:25:20,938
I think this made me more determined
to try and change the rules.
802
01:25:21,236 --> 01:25:26,591
So we can continue with Everest
as usual but in a safer way.
803
01:25:27,598 --> 01:25:29,411
I've been a mountain guide
all my life.
804
01:25:29,683 --> 01:25:34,229
We have to deal with death a lot
and then try and move on.
805
01:25:36,333 --> 01:25:40,353
Hopefully, we will have a team to go
to climb Mount Everest again next year.
806
01:26:25,428 --> 01:26:26,974
The game shifted.
807
01:26:27,364 --> 01:26:29,925
It would be easy
in the chaos of this last week
808
01:26:30,120 --> 01:26:32,519
to lose sight
of what has happened here.
809
01:26:34,033 --> 01:26:36,851
The Sherpas have effectively
canceled the season.
810
01:26:38,731 --> 01:26:40,601
They had a choice, and in the end,
811
01:26:40,853 --> 01:26:43,656
they've chosen respect
for themselves and the mountain
812
01:26:43,879 --> 01:26:44,998
ahead of money.
813
01:26:46,825 --> 01:26:50,008
Canceling the season will be
a welcomed breathing space.
814
01:26:51,072 --> 01:26:53,998
So maybe it will be calmer.
815
01:26:54,082 --> 01:26:56,671
It will be nice for Everest
to be calm for a bit
816
01:26:56,977 --> 01:27:00,089
rather than this kind of madness.
817
01:27:04,306 --> 01:27:06,565
My father said
that you don't conquer these mountains.
818
01:27:06,764 --> 01:27:08,149
You just crawl up,
819
01:27:08,591 --> 01:27:11,074
as a child crawling
to your mother's lap,
820
01:27:12,029 --> 01:27:14,523
which is the same approach
I think people should take.
821
01:27:14,861 --> 01:27:16,456
And then there'd be less accidents.
822
01:27:18,287 --> 01:27:22,686
He was the first asian to become famous,
known around the world,
823
01:27:23,077 --> 01:27:26,209
and he became a great metaphor
for young men
824
01:27:26,400 --> 01:27:29,766
all alike to show
that you can make it on your own
825
01:27:29,858 --> 01:27:31,313
and hard work is what it takes.
826
01:27:31,615 --> 01:27:35,448
And so he became a real symbol of hope
for millions around the world.
827
01:28:11,265 --> 01:28:15,255
Tenzing gave the name "Sherpa"
a currency
828
01:28:15,583 --> 01:28:17,427
which will never be exhausted.
829
01:28:18,379 --> 01:28:22,928
It may only be now that they're really
beginning to take advantage of it.
830
01:28:23,789 --> 01:28:25,317
They've got control
of climbing the mountain
831
01:28:25,962 --> 01:28:28,105
and it's come full circle in a way.
832
01:28:39,605 --> 01:28:42,600
My father said he climbed,
so that we wouldn't have to.
833
01:28:45,384 --> 01:28:47,233
He wanted to give us
the best education.
834
01:28:47,849 --> 01:28:51,337
So we could continue our lives in some
other careers rather than climbing.
835
01:28:52,609 --> 01:28:54,430
Because climbing was dangerous.
69850
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