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JOANNA LUMLEY: It's 5:30 in the morning,
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an early start for the final leg
of my adventures through India.
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[WHISTLE BLOWS]
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I'm joggling across Rajasthan
in a train.
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I'm sitting in
a third-class compartment,
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which actually is terrific,
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apart from the slightly
sort of shonky windows
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with bits of... [WHISTLES]
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It's fabulous.
It's got three layers of seats
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and you're given two sheets
and a pillow to lie down
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and the lavatory
is two little footprints
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and a hole to the ground.
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What's not to like?
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This year, India is celebrating
70 years of its independence
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and I'm travelling
around the subcontinent
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exploring this
most glorious of countries.
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So far, I've seen
the great Hindu temples of the south...
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-[NAGASWARAM BLOWING]
-The trumpets are starting.
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...braved the mountain road
to the Kingdom of Sikkim...
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Quite scary bits of the road
where somebody's gone over.
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[CAMEL BELLOWING]
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...visited the deserts
in the west of the country...
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This is my first sip of camel milk.
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...and the teeming metropolis of Mumbai.
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LUMLEY: Here's my uncle!
WOMAN: Yes!
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LUMLEY: There's Ivor!
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In this, my final adventure,
we'll revisit Rajasthan,
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travel on to Delhi
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and up to the foothills
of the Himalayas.
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I'll witness the complexities
of the capital city,
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have an audience
with a great holy man...
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Holiness, we have got a present for you,
which we hope that you like.
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Oh!
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...and end in glorious Kashmir,
the place of my birth.
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Welcome to India.
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The train is taking me
to my last adventure in Rajasthan.
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Lying on the Pakistan border,
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Rajasthan is famous
for its beautiful deserts,
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its opulent palaces
and its stunning lakes.
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It's also home to one of the most famous
tiger reserves in the world.
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In about 1850, there were
250,000 tigers roaming in India
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but they were hunted ceaselessly
by the British and maharajas together
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in great big shoots,
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and 10 years ago, their numbers
had dwindled to 1,400 tigers left.
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They've done huge
conservation programmes
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and they've worked on it
and worked on it
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and they've got the numbers over 2,000.
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Anyway, I'm going to a place
called Ranthambore National Park,
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which is one of the finest
wildlife reserves in India.
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[TRAIN HORN BLOWS]
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In the cool of dawn,
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I get my first glimpse
of this stunning park.
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It was established back in 1973
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around the ruins of a 10th-century fort.
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This is a gateway in itself,
this banyan tree.
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This park is like something
out of Kipling's Jungle Book,
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quintessentially Indian,
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and I'm lucky enough to have as my guide
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one of the world's most eminent
tiger conservationists.
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Belinda Wright
has spent her entire life in India,
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founded the country's
Wildlife Protection Society
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and has been a leading light
in the fight against poaching.
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What are the hours that a tiger keeps?
When do they kill? When do they sleep?
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When it's very hot,
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they'll either sleep or go in the water.
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-They like the water?
-Yeah.
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If they make a big kill,
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they'll have a huge amount
of food to eat
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and then they'll just sleep.
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-Sleep it off.
-Yeah.
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WRIGHT: We should get moving
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because our best chance of finding
a tiger is the next half hour.
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LUMLEY: Today,
the park provides a safe habitat
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and tiger numbers
have just reached a healthy level.
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But you still need
an expert guide to spot one.
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WRIGHT: [WHISPERING] The good thing is
this is the time they all come out.
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So you have to just look for movement.
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Just see over there,
just a little shadow,
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walking through the trees.
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LUMLEY: Oh, my gosh.
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Look at that colour!
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God, to see her
through the woods like this,
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it's just extraordinary.
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WRIGHT: Do you see her battle scars?
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LUMLEY: Who's she...
Who's she been fighting with?
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WRIGHT: Oh, everybody. Mother, sister,
brother, uncle, et cetera.
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God, how fantastic.
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Ranthambore highlights
the seemingly unsolvable problem
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of people and tigers
trying to live together.
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And indeed, not everyone
is in favour of the park.
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Two hundred families
were evicted from the land
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and many very poor people
still see poaching
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as a means of survival.
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But there's a unique grassroots project
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that's designed
to bring the locals onside
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and defeat the culture of poaching
that threatens the park.
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[CHILDREN RECITING LESSONS]
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These are the children
of the Moghiya people,
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a local tribe
of skilful hunters and trackers
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who are now blamed for much
of the poaching around the park.
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May I join your class?
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Namaskar, namaskar, little ones.
How nice to see you.
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Please sit.
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The Moghiya are semi-nomadic,
and school is not usually an option.
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These boys are being given an education
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in the hope that they don't grow up
to become tiger killers.
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What is your favourite animal?
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CHILDREN: Tigers!
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[CHUCKLES] Mine, too.
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[VIKRAM SINGING IN HINDI]
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LUMLEY: Young Vikram,
who's singing to the class,
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is the grandson of a notorious poacher
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who's awaiting trial
for killing several tigers.
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Thank you. Shabash.
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-Shabash, shabash.
-[CLASS APPLAUDING]
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Of these children, their parents
have never had any education,
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nor have their grandparents,
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because their parents
are usually dabbling
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in kind of the dark arts of poaching.
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Suddenly, this is the new generation
which is going to change that.
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Let's hope that when
maybe they're tempted
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by any kind of crime in the future,
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they'll push it aside
and they'll remember the teaching here.
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[INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS]
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Dr Khandal runs the project
and has seen the results.
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Do you think that
by teaching the Moghiya boys
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that poaching is bad,
that they will change their ways?
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KHANDAL: Yeah, definitely.
The poaching is amazingly declined.
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LUMLEY: It's going down?
KHANDAL: Yeah.
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The fact of the involvement
of the Moghiya community,
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though they are the prime
poaching community in this area,
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and these boys
are getting alternatives, so...
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It's a brighter future,
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-for people and for animals.
-Mmm-hmm.
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LUMLEY: Nearly a million people
live around the park
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and Tiger Watch is also attempting
to bring them onside.
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They're being trained
to catch tigers on camera.
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So this is fixed to a tree...
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-Yeah, it's a motion-detection camera.
-LUMLEY: Yeah.
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LUMLEY: They've got some
real beauties already,
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but I thought I'd lend my experience.
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Here I go.
Walking like a tiger, quite slowly.
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[LAUGHING] I look like an old sofa.
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Oh, and it's got me.
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-[LUMLEY ROARS]
-[ALL LAUGH]
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Don't please make me
a George Galloway thing. Here I go.
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Looks like a really deranged person
who's escaped from a home.
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A person
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bolting for it.
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-[LAUGHING]
-Bahut acha!
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Thank you. Thank you very much indeed.
That's excellent.
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Here I go.
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[LAUGHING]
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Before leaving for Delhi,
I have one more day in Ranthambore
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and one more chance
to see a tiger in the wild.
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Crikey, go a bit faster.
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[BOTH LAUGHING]
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[WHISPERING]
There's too many deer around
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for her to be very close by.
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-I'm trying to think like a tigress...
-Yeah.
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...who's hot, slightly hungry.
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And after several long,
hot hours in the back of the Jeep,
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Belinda directs us
towards another water hole
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and there's not a deer in sight.
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WRIGHT: [GASPS] Oh, my God.
Across the way, through the tree.
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Can you see?
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She's getting water.
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She's being very respectful
of crocodiles.
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LUMLEY: Crocodiles can gang up
on tigers in water.
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WRIGHT: That is all to do
with crocodiles.
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Wow.
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[LUMLEY CHUCKLES SOFTLY]
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WRIGHT: Isn't that wonderful?
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-[LAUGHS]
-[GASPS] Spooked by something.
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LUMLEY: Do you think
all these creatures are saying,
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"Watch out, watch out.
Tiger, tiger, tiger"?
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-WRIGHT: Yes, they are.
-[LUMLEY GASPS]
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There's a whole lot of peacocks
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who are looking slightly polite
and rather bemused.
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"Oh, I think we'd better
get out of here now."
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-[WRIGHT LAUGHS]
-"Here comes Madam Tigress."
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I am just so thrilled
to have seen that.
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To have seen her walking
through the water like that.
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It's been wonderful,
and she is wonderful.
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Oh, look, sambar here.
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Honestly, Belinda,
I can't thank you enough.
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You've also done everything
in the world, haven't you?
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WRIGHT: I've never seen
a tiger tiptoeing
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through the water like that
because of crocodiles.
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LUMLEY: So, every day is a new day here.
WRIGHT: Yes.
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LUMLEY: Two hundred and fifty miles
to the north lies Delhi.
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Modern India's capital, but also a city
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that's been the centre
of a succession of many mighty empires.
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The Mughals invaded from Persia
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and established their empire
here in 1526.
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These Muslim rulers left a legacy
of some of the most stunning
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and imaginative architecture
in the world.
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This is the Emperor Humayun's tomb.
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A faintly familiar shape?
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00:11:52,400 --> 00:11:56,760
That's because this is the precursor
of the great dynastic mausoleums,
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which, decades later,
culminated in the Taj Mahal.
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Look at it. This was the first time
so much red sandstone
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and gleaming white marble
had been used in such profusion.
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I love it.
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00:12:13,360 --> 00:12:16,080
But it's quite possible that
without this glorious building,
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my story could have been very different.
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I'm particularly grateful to this place
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because it's where my father proposed
to my mother and she accepted.
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I think he must have been down here
in Delhi on some sort of army business.
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They'd met in Kashmir.
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She might have been staying...
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I mean, were her parents
here at the time
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or maybe her older sister?
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00:12:35,480 --> 00:12:39,120
Anyway, they came for a romantic walk
around Humayun's tomb,
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00:12:39,200 --> 00:12:41,000
he said, "Will you marry me?"
and she said, "Yes."
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00:12:41,080 --> 00:12:43,240
And I'm so thrilled,
because if they hadn't said...
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00:12:43,320 --> 00:12:45,080
If they hadn't agreed to get married,
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um, I wouldn't be here,
my sister wouldn't be here,
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and life would've been
completely different.
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[GASPS] How lovely.
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So this is where
their hearts beat as one.
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This is a gorgeous time of day.
223
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-It's very early in the morning.
-[MEN LAUGHING]
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And as a beautiful waitress said to me
on a Tennessee morning at breakfast,
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00:13:02,520 --> 00:13:05,160
she said... [IMITATING SOUTHERN DRAWL]
"Y'all have a blessed day, now."
226
00:13:05,240 --> 00:13:06,400
So I shall!
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00:13:07,800 --> 00:13:09,120
[ALL LAUGHING]
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00:13:12,560 --> 00:13:15,800
Delhi is one of the oldest
inhabited cities in the world.
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00:13:16,600 --> 00:13:19,640
The British in India
moved their capital here in 1911.
230
00:13:22,160 --> 00:13:23,760
It was a strategic move,
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00:13:23,840 --> 00:13:26,760
intended to avoid the growing opposition
to British rule
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00:13:26,840 --> 00:13:28,680
in the old capital, Calcutta.
233
00:13:30,760 --> 00:13:32,600
The architect Edwin Lutyens
234
00:13:32,680 --> 00:13:35,560
was commissioned
to design the new government buildings.
235
00:13:36,960 --> 00:13:39,520
I love this part of Delhi.
It's actually New Delhi.
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00:13:39,600 --> 00:13:41,520
Lutyens, he was an extraordinary man
237
00:13:41,600 --> 00:13:44,520
because he respected
Indian architecture so much.
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00:13:44,600 --> 00:13:47,520
And so he's got these little cupolas
and minarets
239
00:13:47,600 --> 00:13:50,480
and things that look charming
and Indian about it.
240
00:13:50,600 --> 00:13:53,880
This just says "India"
on a majestic scale.
241
00:13:54,400 --> 00:13:56,880
And people who came out here
to visit the viceroy
242
00:13:56,960 --> 00:14:00,760
said that it made Buckingham Palace
look like a cottage.
243
00:14:03,920 --> 00:14:05,600
Seven decades of self-government
244
00:14:05,680 --> 00:14:09,920
have seen India emerge
as a major world power.
245
00:14:10,000 --> 00:14:13,600
And Delhi has witnessed a phenomenal
growth in high-tech industries.
246
00:14:16,960 --> 00:14:19,320
The success of something called BPO,
247
00:14:19,400 --> 00:14:22,520
or business process outsourcing,
has been pivotal.
248
00:14:24,720 --> 00:14:28,000
And India now earns £50 billion a year
249
00:14:28,120 --> 00:14:30,560
providing business services
for the world.
250
00:14:32,560 --> 00:14:34,960
Companies such as Pepsi and Vodafone
251
00:14:35,040 --> 00:14:37,960
have outsourced
some of their services to DigiCall.
252
00:14:40,360 --> 00:14:42,440
It's one of Delhi's many call centres.
253
00:14:43,400 --> 00:14:45,640
I want to see
if I could get a job there.
254
00:14:46,120 --> 00:14:49,120
Hello, good morning, I'm Joanna Lumley.
I've come for an interview.
255
00:14:49,200 --> 00:14:51,440
Ah, hi. Yeah, you can have a seat
and fill in this form.
256
00:14:51,520 --> 00:14:52,680
Okay, thank you.
257
00:14:54,960 --> 00:14:57,800
"Years of exp"?
258
00:14:57,880 --> 00:15:00,000
WOMAN: Experience.
How much experience you have.
259
00:15:00,080 --> 00:15:01,640
Ah, a lifetime.
260
00:15:01,720 --> 00:15:05,080
Okay, good. This is going to be
70 years' experience.
261
00:15:05,200 --> 00:15:08,520
Um, ratings are 1 poor, 5 excellent.
262
00:15:09,640 --> 00:15:11,640
I'm going to be excellent, excellent,
excellent, excellent...
263
00:15:11,720 --> 00:15:12,920
No, they will do it.
264
00:15:13,000 --> 00:15:14,400
Oh, they rate me?
265
00:15:17,680 --> 00:15:20,760
Rajeev Sharma is one
of India's call centre gurus.
266
00:15:22,280 --> 00:15:25,120
So, Rajeev, this seems to me,
behind me, Cyber City.
267
00:15:25,200 --> 00:15:26,640
How long has this been here?
268
00:15:26,760 --> 00:15:28,520
Essentially it came up
in the last 10 years.
269
00:15:28,600 --> 00:15:30,800
-And so what was here before?
-Plain ground.
270
00:15:30,880 --> 00:15:32,160
-Nothing?
-Nothing.
271
00:15:32,240 --> 00:15:35,280
In Britain, sometimes, um,
working at a call centre
272
00:15:35,440 --> 00:15:37,840
would seem as quite a lowly job,
but here it's good, isn't it?
273
00:15:38,440 --> 00:15:40,240
-Here, it is. I mean, money-wise...
-Yeah.
274
00:15:40,400 --> 00:15:43,080
...uh, this is a place
where you can earn money
275
00:15:43,160 --> 00:15:45,040
and decide what you want
to do with it later.
276
00:15:45,120 --> 00:15:47,480
Is this a young-people industry,
do you think?
277
00:15:47,560 --> 00:15:50,040
Yes. I mean,
average age in a call centre
278
00:15:50,120 --> 00:15:52,440
would be anywhere between 18 to 25.
279
00:15:52,520 --> 00:15:53,720
-So, very young.
-It's very young.
280
00:15:54,240 --> 00:15:56,080
I think I've filled in
everything I need to.
281
00:15:56,160 --> 00:15:57,560
They'll call you for interview.
282
00:15:58,880 --> 00:16:01,080
-WOMAN: So she'll be your new candidate.
-Okay.
283
00:16:01,520 --> 00:16:02,520
I'm Joanna.
284
00:16:02,600 --> 00:16:05,200
So, Joanna, why do you want
to work in a call centre?
285
00:16:05,840 --> 00:16:07,840
Because I love
communicating with people
286
00:16:07,920 --> 00:16:10,760
and I think it's an industry
that is growing and growing.
287
00:16:10,840 --> 00:16:11,920
-Okay.
-I'd love to be part of it.
288
00:16:12,000 --> 00:16:14,400
-Great.
-Have you seen how old I am?
289
00:16:14,480 --> 00:16:15,840
-It's okay.
-Okay, good.
290
00:16:15,920 --> 00:16:18,040
-We give...
-They can't see me. I'm on a phone.
291
00:16:18,120 --> 00:16:21,800
That's completely fine. We give
opportunity to each and every person.
292
00:16:21,880 --> 00:16:23,480
Hello, madam. How can I help you?
293
00:16:23,560 --> 00:16:26,840
I've somehow blagged my way through
to the final stage of the training.
294
00:16:26,920 --> 00:16:28,640
WOMAN: [ON PHONE]
...four days. Where is my product?
295
00:16:28,760 --> 00:16:30,800
Oh, madam, I'm so sorry for this delay,
296
00:16:30,880 --> 00:16:34,480
and I'm going to ensure that the product
gets to you tomorrow, because...
297
00:16:34,560 --> 00:16:37,840
Ajay Sam is in charge
of this whole operation.
298
00:16:37,920 --> 00:16:41,360
We service
around 45 clients internationally
299
00:16:41,440 --> 00:16:43,200
-and within India.
-Whew!
300
00:16:43,320 --> 00:16:45,320
Yeah, so because we cater
to all languages...
301
00:16:45,400 --> 00:16:46,400
And is this growing?
302
00:16:46,520 --> 00:16:49,600
We're growing at a rate
of 15% to 20% year-on-year.
303
00:16:49,680 --> 00:16:51,240
-Oh, that's huge.
-That's huge, yeah.
304
00:16:51,360 --> 00:16:53,960
Because you've had to have
such a hard time with our company,
305
00:16:54,040 --> 00:16:56,840
I'm going to send you
a free product of your choice.
306
00:16:56,920 --> 00:16:59,040
WOMAN: You want to give me something
as a complimentary product?
307
00:16:59,120 --> 00:17:01,000
I'm going to give you
a complimentary product.
308
00:17:03,000 --> 00:17:06,120
I think that if I came to you
as a trainee...
309
00:17:06,200 --> 00:17:08,480
-Mmm-hmm.
-You wouldn't accept me. I promise you.
310
00:17:08,560 --> 00:17:10,120
Oh, well... [LAUGHS]
Why do you say that?
311
00:17:10,200 --> 00:17:12,040
I'm not very good at IT.
312
00:17:12,120 --> 00:17:13,440
[LAUGHS]
313
00:17:13,840 --> 00:17:15,320
And I would promise the customer
anything they wanted.
314
00:17:15,400 --> 00:17:16,440
[BOTH LAUGHING]
315
00:17:16,560 --> 00:17:18,360
She just had a toaster,
that's all she wanted.
316
00:17:18,440 --> 00:17:21,840
Now she's ordered an oven as well.
I've promised her it, free.
317
00:17:21,920 --> 00:17:25,960
We'll send her the oven as well
and then we'll send her a bill.
318
00:17:26,080 --> 00:17:27,840
-It's been a pleasure being here.
-My pleasure, too.
319
00:17:27,920 --> 00:17:29,960
I've got to say,
it's still left me terribly nervous
320
00:17:30,040 --> 00:17:33,120
in case somebody does ring up and say,
"I'm very angry about the delivery."
321
00:17:33,200 --> 00:17:34,440
-No!
-[LAUGHS]
322
00:17:37,960 --> 00:17:41,680
I now have the greatest respect
for people who work in call centres
323
00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:45,040
and next time I'm put through to them,
I shall be more appreciative.
324
00:17:52,360 --> 00:17:54,920
I was a model in the '60s,
and any time there's a chance
325
00:17:55,000 --> 00:17:57,440
to drop in on a photographic shoot,
I'm there.
326
00:17:57,720 --> 00:18:00,000
But this is exciting
because this is in India,
327
00:18:00,360 --> 00:18:04,640
top Indian designer, Indian stylist,
top Indian models and I'm in Delhi
328
00:18:04,720 --> 00:18:06,880
and it's going to be fabulous.
329
00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:13,000
The thing about photoshoots
all around the world
330
00:18:13,080 --> 00:18:14,920
is that they're exactly the same.
331
00:18:15,000 --> 00:18:16,120
It just unifies us.
332
00:18:16,200 --> 00:18:19,480
So it doesn't matter whether you're
in the United States or in Russia,
333
00:18:19,560 --> 00:18:20,720
in Japan, here in India,
334
00:18:20,800 --> 00:18:22,680
it kind of draws
the whole world together.
335
00:18:23,120 --> 00:18:25,080
Ravishing beauty,
336
00:18:25,160 --> 00:18:27,280
gorgeous things which look unattainable,
337
00:18:27,360 --> 00:18:31,120
all to go into a magazine,
all to make women dream of beauty.
338
00:18:32,000 --> 00:18:34,480
Oh, dear, I can't get this off.
I may have to keep it.
339
00:18:36,880 --> 00:18:39,000
Today's shoot is resort wear.
340
00:18:39,280 --> 00:18:40,600
Gosh, it's fantastic.
341
00:18:41,040 --> 00:18:43,160
Traditionally only for the very rich
342
00:18:43,240 --> 00:18:47,520
but now part of the £50 billion
Indians spend on fashion every year.
343
00:18:48,480 --> 00:18:50,440
Rajdeep, these are high-end clothes.
344
00:18:51,160 --> 00:18:52,480
Is there a huge market for them?
345
00:18:52,600 --> 00:18:55,400
There's a huge market
because today, um,
346
00:18:55,480 --> 00:18:57,280
all the clients
are travelling internationally
347
00:18:57,360 --> 00:19:00,360
and resort wear has become so strong.
It's affordable as well.
348
00:19:00,440 --> 00:19:02,280
Could anybody aspire
to owning one of these?
349
00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:06,160
Probably, mmm, just about $150.
350
00:19:06,280 --> 00:19:07,360
-Right?
-LUMLEY: What?
351
00:19:07,440 --> 00:19:08,880
RAJDEEP: Yes. Yes.
352
00:19:09,080 --> 00:19:10,320
-What?
-Yes!
353
00:19:10,400 --> 00:19:11,640
Oh, my heavens.
354
00:19:11,720 --> 00:19:13,360
-LUMLEY: That's a tunic.
-So, that's a tunic.
355
00:19:13,640 --> 00:19:15,480
You call this style "boho Indian luxe"?
356
00:19:15,560 --> 00:19:17,440
RAJDEEP: I just made that up
but I think it sounds pretty apt.
357
00:19:17,520 --> 00:19:19,080
Well, I love it.
I think it sounds pretty good.
358
00:19:20,320 --> 00:19:22,200
Do you know,
you could be feeling really dowdy
359
00:19:22,280 --> 00:19:25,280
and you just put on something like this,
bit of lippy,
360
00:19:25,360 --> 00:19:27,480
I mean, you've got to do
something to your face,
361
00:19:27,560 --> 00:19:30,000
but anyway, once you've done that,
you got something like this on...
362
00:19:31,840 --> 00:19:32,880
[LAUGHS]
363
00:19:34,080 --> 00:19:37,720
Around the world,
Indian models are so in vogue right now
364
00:19:37,840 --> 00:19:40,080
and can demand top dollar.
365
00:19:40,160 --> 00:19:42,280
Would it be dreadfully rude
if you told me how old you are?
366
00:19:42,360 --> 00:19:43,960
I'm 38. Not at all.
367
00:19:44,080 --> 00:19:46,720
-LUMLEY: Stop it!
-No, I'm 38.
368
00:19:46,800 --> 00:19:48,840
You look just like a child.
369
00:19:48,920 --> 00:19:50,960
Thank you. I feel like a child.
370
00:19:51,040 --> 00:19:53,280
-You look about 19 and beyond gorgeous.
-[LAUGHS]
371
00:19:53,360 --> 00:19:55,800
-MODEL: You are so beautiful. [LAUGHS]
-Oh, stop it.
372
00:19:55,880 --> 00:19:58,120
Sitting here,
double-sharing the mirror, you go,
373
00:19:58,200 --> 00:20:00,400
"Oh, I'm going to have to
ask for help, too."
374
00:20:02,040 --> 00:20:03,240
Isn't that beautiful?
375
00:20:03,680 --> 00:20:05,400
I love makeup. All these people who say,
376
00:20:05,480 --> 00:20:08,160
"Oh, scrub your face and just go about
it as nature intended,"
377
00:20:08,240 --> 00:20:09,920
-I think that's a bore.
-Yeah.
378
00:20:11,840 --> 00:20:14,840
Modelling requires
a bit of patience and skill.
379
00:20:16,480 --> 00:20:17,720
More than most people imagine.
380
00:20:17,800 --> 00:20:18,840
PHOTOGRAPHER: That's good.
381
00:20:18,920 --> 00:20:22,000
I can remember one time when Patsy
was absolutely stoned out of her mind
382
00:20:22,080 --> 00:20:23,120
doing some photographs,
383
00:20:23,200 --> 00:20:24,800
and she trod
through the back paper like this.
384
00:20:24,880 --> 00:20:26,840
-Oh, yeah, I remember seeing that.
-We got all caught up in it.
385
00:20:26,920 --> 00:20:28,080
[BOTH LAUGH]
386
00:20:28,160 --> 00:20:29,280
WOMAN: Squeeze in, guys, come on.
387
00:20:29,360 --> 00:20:30,360
PHOTOGRAPHER: Lovely.
388
00:20:31,080 --> 00:20:33,880
Thank you. Thanks, darlings.
Thank you, my lovely ones.
389
00:20:35,600 --> 00:20:38,960
Today, Delhi is clearly
somewhere you can make it.
390
00:20:39,040 --> 00:20:41,120
Its population is exploding.
391
00:20:42,680 --> 00:20:46,920
And £280 million is being spent
on a new monorail system.
392
00:20:50,960 --> 00:20:53,360
But in the shadow
of one of the new train lines,
393
00:20:53,440 --> 00:20:56,800
you can also see what happens to
the thousands who aren't so fortunate.
394
00:21:01,520 --> 00:21:04,400
Those not earning
can quickly fall through the net
395
00:21:04,480 --> 00:21:06,160
and the number of homeless in the city
396
00:21:06,240 --> 00:21:10,480
is now estimated
to be far in excess of 150,000.
397
00:21:14,560 --> 00:21:16,920
-Are they from all over India or just...
-Yeah, yeah, all over.
398
00:21:17,000 --> 00:21:18,720
Yeah, all over India, coming to Delhi.
399
00:21:19,400 --> 00:21:20,520
Where do you sleep here?
400
00:21:20,600 --> 00:21:22,480
-You can sleep anywhere. Here, there.
-Anywhere.
401
00:21:22,560 --> 00:21:23,560
Here, here.
402
00:21:24,640 --> 00:21:26,280
LUMLEY: This is an area of central Delhi
403
00:21:26,360 --> 00:21:28,840
where countless homeless men
bed down for the night
404
00:21:29,360 --> 00:21:30,800
and where I met Radju.
405
00:21:31,280 --> 00:21:33,800
So, Radju, how long have you lived here?
406
00:21:34,280 --> 00:21:35,680
Last 38 years.
407
00:21:35,760 --> 00:21:37,720
-Thirty-eight years?
-Yes.
408
00:21:37,840 --> 00:21:40,680
But you're a young man.
How old were you when you came here?
409
00:21:40,760 --> 00:21:41,760
Twelve year.
410
00:21:42,120 --> 00:21:44,720
-I was 12.
-Twelve, Radju. What happened?
411
00:21:45,920 --> 00:21:48,800
Because of, I was drinker.
412
00:21:49,800 --> 00:21:51,800
-Alcoholic.
-When you were a little boy?
413
00:21:52,160 --> 00:21:53,520
Yeah, I was 12.
414
00:21:53,680 --> 00:21:57,520
My family and between me...
There's some problem.
415
00:21:57,840 --> 00:21:59,200
-So you had a split-up?
-Yeah.
416
00:21:59,280 --> 00:22:00,600
-And they threw you out?
-Yeah.
417
00:22:00,680 --> 00:22:02,040
And you came here.
418
00:22:02,120 --> 00:22:03,880
And what do people do
when they come here?
419
00:22:03,960 --> 00:22:05,680
They try to work in the daytime?
420
00:22:05,760 --> 00:22:09,600
There's some people,
they're doing garbage work.
421
00:22:09,680 --> 00:22:12,640
-You will see there.
-Yes, recycling things and garbage.
422
00:22:12,720 --> 00:22:13,760
Collecting things.
423
00:22:13,840 --> 00:22:16,280
RADJU: Yeah, collecting things
and they're selling here.
424
00:22:18,000 --> 00:22:21,640
LUMLEY: Ingeniously, some of these men
have set up a makeshift cinema
425
00:22:21,720 --> 00:22:23,520
from all sorts of old scraps.
426
00:22:24,920 --> 00:22:27,160
Cinemas in Delhi don't accept us.
427
00:22:28,160 --> 00:22:29,480
-Tell me about that.
-They just kick us... [LAUGHS]
428
00:22:29,560 --> 00:22:30,840
-Do they kick you out?
-Yeah, yeah.
429
00:22:30,920 --> 00:22:33,400
-Why?
-Because of we are dirty people.
430
00:22:34,360 --> 00:22:36,680
I have... We don't have nice clothes.
431
00:22:37,240 --> 00:22:38,880
We don't have perfumes.
432
00:22:39,320 --> 00:22:40,680
That kind of things.
433
00:22:41,440 --> 00:22:43,520
LUMLEY: I'd love to see
what films you're showing.
434
00:22:43,600 --> 00:22:44,720
-Yes, we will go.
-Yeah?
435
00:22:44,800 --> 00:22:46,160
-Can I come in?
-Yeah, yeah.
436
00:22:46,680 --> 00:22:47,800
[FILM PLAYING]
437
00:22:48,320 --> 00:22:50,600
[FILM ACTORS SPEAKING HINDI]
438
00:22:58,240 --> 00:23:00,400
LUMLEY: This seems a very happy crowd.
439
00:23:00,800 --> 00:23:02,840
Are they happy people?
Because they're watching...
440
00:23:02,920 --> 00:23:05,680
They didn't worry about other day.
441
00:23:06,800 --> 00:23:09,200
-They just want to spend today.
-Today. Now.
442
00:23:09,280 --> 00:23:11,240
-Yeah.
-They're living in the present.
443
00:23:11,320 --> 00:23:14,120
-We're all like a family here.
-Yes.
444
00:23:14,200 --> 00:23:15,960
We don't have religions here.
445
00:23:17,160 --> 00:23:19,160
-We are all one.
-You're all one family?
446
00:23:19,240 --> 00:23:20,280
-Yeah.
-That's wonderful.
447
00:23:22,840 --> 00:23:25,280
LUMLEY: Which are your favourite films?
Which are the most...
448
00:23:25,360 --> 00:23:28,040
RADJU: Well, some movies I see,
the James Bond.
449
00:23:29,280 --> 00:23:31,440
And Arnaldo... Something like that.
450
00:23:31,520 --> 00:23:34,440
Um, I know who you mean.
Arnold Schwarzenegger.
451
00:23:34,520 --> 00:23:36,240
-Ah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
-Arnold Schwarzenegger.
452
00:23:37,040 --> 00:23:38,400
Yeah, Arnie.
453
00:23:50,400 --> 00:23:52,080
It may only be an old TV
454
00:23:52,160 --> 00:23:55,600
and a DVD player
wired up under a makeshift tent,
455
00:23:55,680 --> 00:23:59,040
but for these men,
it's their own Cinema Paradiso.
456
00:24:04,200 --> 00:24:05,480
Phew!
457
00:24:08,200 --> 00:24:11,720
Well, quite hot in there,
but what an extraordinary place.
458
00:24:11,840 --> 00:24:15,280
We're in the heart of Delhi,
the capital of India,
459
00:24:15,360 --> 00:24:20,080
and living in decrepit and derelict
conditions as I've ever been in.
460
00:24:20,160 --> 00:24:21,520
Just in this very short time
I've been here,
461
00:24:21,640 --> 00:24:24,160
I've seen rats and dogs of all kinds.
462
00:24:24,440 --> 00:24:27,480
Everybody kind of getting on.
Cows wandering through rubbish.
463
00:24:27,960 --> 00:24:29,120
It's astonishing.
464
00:24:30,240 --> 00:24:31,720
I'm so pleased I came here.
465
00:24:31,920 --> 00:24:34,600
[FILM ACTORS SPEAKING HINDI]
466
00:24:34,680 --> 00:24:37,160
LUMLEY: Isn't it odd,
this sort of life-saving thing?
467
00:24:37,240 --> 00:24:39,240
Look what it does,
look at the pleasure it gives.
468
00:24:39,520 --> 00:24:41,480
Suddenly, for a moment, they're lost.
469
00:24:41,560 --> 00:24:44,440
They can escape, they're entertained
470
00:24:44,880 --> 00:24:47,240
and life can seem glorious again,
471
00:24:47,320 --> 00:24:48,880
sitting with a great big family.
472
00:24:49,920 --> 00:24:52,040
It's extraordinarily gentle.
473
00:24:52,120 --> 00:24:55,600
And to go in there and some people
making namaste welcome signs.
474
00:24:56,480 --> 00:24:59,320
And the gentleman sitting next door
to me is missing the front teeth.
475
00:24:59,400 --> 00:25:01,800
He said politely,
"Do you have a problem?"
476
00:25:01,880 --> 00:25:03,920
I said, "No, no problem." He meant...
477
00:25:04,000 --> 00:25:06,400
And then he said, "You want water?"
That was his "problem".
478
00:25:06,480 --> 00:25:07,800
He was meaning,
479
00:25:07,880 --> 00:25:09,800
"Would you like me
to get you some water?"
480
00:25:10,840 --> 00:25:11,880
[CLAPS HANDS]
481
00:25:14,520 --> 00:25:15,880
[TRAIN RATTLING OVERHEAD]
482
00:25:20,360 --> 00:25:21,840
[VOICE BREAKING] I'm sorry.
483
00:25:28,240 --> 00:25:29,240
Anyway...
484
00:25:30,520 --> 00:25:32,440
Anyway, they've got the cinema.
485
00:25:33,640 --> 00:25:34,920
That's good.
486
00:25:40,200 --> 00:25:42,280
We were all so touched
by what we saw here
487
00:25:42,360 --> 00:25:45,080
that we thought we'd help out
with some tarpaulin
488
00:25:45,160 --> 00:25:49,640
to weather-proof the leaky cinema tent
against the approaching rainy season.
489
00:25:55,160 --> 00:25:59,280
Delhi has been heart-wrenching
and illuminating in equal measure
490
00:25:59,440 --> 00:26:03,000
but now I have to collect my thoughts,
my inner self and my luggage
491
00:26:03,080 --> 00:26:04,640
and head to the mountains.
492
00:26:11,160 --> 00:26:15,240
The greatest mountain range in the world
stands along India's northern border.
493
00:26:18,560 --> 00:26:20,440
An hour's flight north from Delhi,
494
00:26:20,520 --> 00:26:22,760
nestled below the snowy Himalayan peaks,
495
00:26:22,840 --> 00:26:24,240
is Dharamsala.
496
00:26:26,560 --> 00:26:28,360
It feels great to be out of the city
497
00:26:28,480 --> 00:26:31,040
and I'm simply beyond excitement
498
00:26:31,120 --> 00:26:34,440
because I have an audience
with one of my greatest heroes.
499
00:26:38,160 --> 00:26:42,400
His residence is high in the mountains,
in a small town called McLeod Ganj.
500
00:26:46,320 --> 00:26:48,960
I'm very excited, a bit fluttery.
501
00:26:49,320 --> 00:26:52,000
I'm going to an audience
with His Holiness the Dalai Lama.
502
00:26:52,080 --> 00:26:55,680
It's a tremendous honour to have been
allowed to bring the film crew in,
503
00:26:55,760 --> 00:26:57,120
just talk to him.
504
00:26:57,200 --> 00:26:59,320
And I want to ask him about, um...
505
00:27:00,680 --> 00:27:02,240
Well, kind of practically,
the meaning of life
506
00:27:02,320 --> 00:27:04,280
and what we should be doing
507
00:27:04,360 --> 00:27:05,600
and well, just everything.
508
00:27:05,680 --> 00:27:08,080
And if anybody knows the answer,
I think it's the Dalai Lama.
509
00:27:20,960 --> 00:27:24,880
The Dalai Lama has been here in India
for the past 60 years,
510
00:27:24,960 --> 00:27:27,400
since his country was invaded by China
511
00:27:27,480 --> 00:27:31,640
and he had to flee in fear of his life,
on foot, across the Himalayas.
512
00:27:32,440 --> 00:27:34,320
[NEWSREEL MUSIC PLAYING]
513
00:27:35,280 --> 00:27:36,840
NEWSREEL NARRATOR:
The road on which the living Buddha
514
00:27:36,920 --> 00:27:40,400
was to end his amazing journey
led through thick jungle.
515
00:27:40,480 --> 00:27:42,120
It was, in fact, the only track,
516
00:27:42,200 --> 00:27:44,920
but the Dalai Lama and his escort
must have appreciated it
517
00:27:45,000 --> 00:27:46,760
after the long mountain trek.
518
00:27:49,320 --> 00:27:51,680
A white scarf,
in keeping with Tibetan custom,
519
00:27:51,760 --> 00:27:54,040
was presented by
the Indian government's envoy
520
00:27:54,120 --> 00:27:56,760
at this simple
but very dramatic meeting.
521
00:27:56,840 --> 00:27:58,880
Smiling and perfectly composed,
522
00:27:58,960 --> 00:28:01,920
the young god-king showed
no signs of his ordeal,
523
00:28:02,000 --> 00:28:03,120
though he'd just completed
524
00:28:03,200 --> 00:28:05,760
perhaps the most exhausting
journey in the world.
525
00:28:07,600 --> 00:28:08,840
LUMLEY: After escaping to India,
526
00:28:08,920 --> 00:28:12,840
His Holiness carried on his role
as leader of the Tibetan people
527
00:28:12,920 --> 00:28:14,560
in exile here in India
528
00:28:15,320 --> 00:28:19,120
and still receives a continual flow
of pilgrims, well-wishers
529
00:28:19,200 --> 00:28:21,000
and refugees from his homeland.
530
00:28:25,920 --> 00:28:29,080
I'm excited anyway,
but there's a family connection.
531
00:28:32,040 --> 00:28:35,120
Almost 100 years ago,
my grandparents and my aunt
532
00:28:35,200 --> 00:28:37,240
met the 13th Dalai Lama,
533
00:28:37,320 --> 00:28:39,720
the man
the present Dalai Lama succeeded.
534
00:28:40,440 --> 00:28:42,320
[INDISTINCT CONVERSATION]
535
00:28:46,840 --> 00:28:48,160
His Holiness is Buddhist
536
00:28:48,240 --> 00:28:51,600
and he lives peacefully
in this predominantly Hindu country,
537
00:28:51,680 --> 00:28:54,320
which is also shared
by many other religions.
538
00:28:57,360 --> 00:28:58,920
Your Holiness.
539
00:28:59,960 --> 00:29:02,440
With all the religious intolerance
in the world,
540
00:29:03,120 --> 00:29:07,200
what is there that we as individuals
can do to counter this?
541
00:29:18,640 --> 00:29:19,840
Forgiveness,
542
00:29:19,920 --> 00:29:21,200
tolerance.
543
00:29:21,480 --> 00:29:22,880
Unfortunately,
544
00:29:22,960 --> 00:29:27,320
including Buddhism, sometimes we just
take religion as something like
545
00:29:28,160 --> 00:29:30,000
a ritual or some prayer,
546
00:29:30,720 --> 00:29:33,600
and not much pay attention,
not much seriously practise
547
00:29:33,680 --> 00:29:36,520
about the real message of religion.
548
00:29:37,120 --> 00:29:38,280
So it is possible.
549
00:29:38,480 --> 00:29:40,480
-Yes.
-If you are sincere.
550
00:29:41,120 --> 00:29:42,400
I am Buddhist.
551
00:29:42,480 --> 00:29:44,600
I really admire Islam.
552
00:29:45,240 --> 00:29:48,880
Some people describe Islam
as more militant, more negative.
553
00:29:49,240 --> 00:29:51,280
But look,
554
00:29:52,080 --> 00:29:53,280
over 1,000 years,
555
00:29:53,840 --> 00:29:56,720
how much Muslims bring,
556
00:29:57,480 --> 00:30:01,280
produce nice, sensible human beings.
557
00:30:01,400 --> 00:30:02,560
Yes.
558
00:30:03,400 --> 00:30:05,640
Some mischievous people,
even the Buddhists,
559
00:30:05,720 --> 00:30:07,760
even the Christians, even the Jews,
also there.
560
00:30:07,840 --> 00:30:11,760
-Of course.
-So, that's my thinking.
561
00:30:11,840 --> 00:30:14,200
So maybe
if we can't have all one religion,
562
00:30:14,280 --> 00:30:16,200
we can at least have one compassion.
563
00:30:16,280 --> 00:30:17,760
That's right! That's right.
564
00:30:17,840 --> 00:30:20,880
Basic human nature is compassion.
565
00:30:21,800 --> 00:30:25,200
-Compassion is much better than anger.
-Yes.
566
00:30:26,720 --> 00:30:30,720
You can ask scientists,
they definitely say
567
00:30:30,800 --> 00:30:33,280
more compassionate heart,
your physically, it's better.
568
00:30:34,280 --> 00:30:36,440
I think, even you see, your face,
569
00:30:37,040 --> 00:30:38,880
compassion there, more smile.
570
00:30:39,240 --> 00:30:40,400
Anger there.
571
00:30:41,200 --> 00:30:43,880
-[BOTH LAUGHING]
-Even you see, our dogs...
572
00:30:43,960 --> 00:30:46,800
-Yes?
-Cats also don't like angry face.
573
00:30:46,880 --> 00:30:48,160
No, they don't.
574
00:30:48,240 --> 00:30:50,080
We've been travelling through India
575
00:30:50,200 --> 00:30:53,600
and Your Holiness, it may be looking
through rose-tinted glasses,
576
00:30:53,760 --> 00:30:59,680
but it seems that India
is happier than the western world
577
00:30:59,760 --> 00:31:03,320
and yet some of the people we've met
here in India are very poor.
578
00:31:03,400 --> 00:31:05,160
Can you be happy with almost nothing?
579
00:31:05,560 --> 00:31:10,600
I find, you see,
when I met some rich family,
580
00:31:10,800 --> 00:31:13,560
sometimes they're more, sort of, polite.
581
00:31:14,880 --> 00:31:18,760
Then, poor Indian workers, very poor.
582
00:31:19,560 --> 00:31:20,840
When I shake hand,
583
00:31:21,360 --> 00:31:26,400
-their face, peaceful, sincere.
-Mmm.
584
00:31:27,680 --> 00:31:30,800
So, accessing modern education
585
00:31:30,880 --> 00:31:33,840
I think creates more desire,
586
00:31:33,920 --> 00:31:35,760
more ambition
587
00:31:35,840 --> 00:31:39,000
and ultimately, self-centred attitude.
588
00:31:42,520 --> 00:31:44,800
-So, you introduce these things.
-I shall.
589
00:31:44,880 --> 00:31:46,360
[BOTH LAUGHING]
590
00:31:48,880 --> 00:31:50,240
LUMLEY: The role of the Dalai Lama
591
00:31:50,320 --> 00:31:53,760
has been filled for centuries
through a belief in reincarnation.
592
00:31:55,480 --> 00:31:58,120
The current Dalai Lama is the 14th.
593
00:31:58,200 --> 00:32:01,160
Chosen at the age of two
to replace his predecessor,
594
00:32:01,240 --> 00:32:03,680
the 13th, Thupten Gyatso,
595
00:32:03,760 --> 00:32:06,160
whom my grandfather,
Colonel Lesley Weir,
596
00:32:06,240 --> 00:32:08,600
knew in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet,
597
00:32:08,680 --> 00:32:10,560
in the days when the country was free.
598
00:32:13,320 --> 00:32:16,640
Your Holiness, I want to bring this
to you because my grandfather was...
599
00:32:17,400 --> 00:32:18,960
Here, this is my grandfather.
600
00:32:20,680 --> 00:32:23,840
So, he was, he knew the 13th Dalai Lama
601
00:32:23,920 --> 00:32:26,840
and this is the articles
from before you were born.
602
00:32:27,240 --> 00:32:30,160
"The Dalai Lama,
whose reincarnation is awaited."
603
00:32:30,640 --> 00:32:32,920
-So, 13th Dalai Lama has passed away...
-Yes.
604
00:32:33,000 --> 00:32:35,400
-You haven't been born yet, Holiness.
-Mmm. Right.
605
00:32:35,760 --> 00:32:38,240
-Oh. Yes, right.
-Ah.
606
00:32:38,640 --> 00:32:41,760
[CONVERSATION CONTINUES INDISTINCTLY]
607
00:32:41,840 --> 00:32:45,280
LUMLEY: I was at a loss to think what
to get as a present for the great man
608
00:32:45,560 --> 00:32:48,400
but I heard on the grapevine
that he loves gadgets.
609
00:32:49,280 --> 00:32:53,320
Holiness, we have got a present for you,
which we hope that you like.
610
00:32:53,880 --> 00:32:58,040
-Oh!
-It's a drone. It's to... It's to fly.
611
00:32:58,320 --> 00:33:00,400
-Oh. Right, right. I saw.
-You know? You've seen these?
612
00:33:00,480 --> 00:33:02,280
-We would love for you to have this.
-Thank you. Thank you.
613
00:33:03,520 --> 00:33:04,600
Thank you.
614
00:33:06,040 --> 00:33:08,080
Please, give me one guarantee.
615
00:33:08,160 --> 00:33:11,720
This somehow mishandle
into my own head...
616
00:33:11,800 --> 00:33:13,480
[BOTH LAUGHING]
617
00:33:13,560 --> 00:33:17,640
You should give me guarantee
that not that kind of things happen.
618
00:33:17,720 --> 00:33:18,920
[BOTH CHUCKLING]
619
00:33:19,040 --> 00:33:20,600
Thank you so much for talking to us.
620
00:33:20,680 --> 00:33:22,880
Thank you. Thank you.
I really appreciate.
621
00:33:22,960 --> 00:33:24,560
-It's been wonderful.
-I really appreciate.
622
00:33:24,640 --> 00:33:26,480
So, you are very, very kind.
623
00:33:26,560 --> 00:33:27,600
-Thank you so much.
-Welcome.
624
00:33:27,680 --> 00:33:29,080
Thank you.
625
00:33:29,160 --> 00:33:32,520
And I think spirit,
your grandfather's sort of spirit
626
00:33:32,600 --> 00:33:34,600
-I think still carries.
-I think he does.
627
00:33:34,680 --> 00:33:36,480
-Oh?
-Mmm-hmm.
628
00:33:36,560 --> 00:33:39,880
-So, thank you.
-Thank you.
629
00:33:52,520 --> 00:33:54,480
[SIGHS]
630
00:33:54,560 --> 00:33:56,000
Honestly, it was such a privilege
631
00:33:56,480 --> 00:33:58,640
to have an audience
with His Holiness the Dalai Lama.
632
00:34:00,040 --> 00:34:04,640
I've come out of it feeling
completely calm, completely blessed
633
00:34:05,120 --> 00:34:07,320
and determined to be
a more compassionate person,
634
00:34:07,400 --> 00:34:09,280
to make something good of my life.
635
00:34:10,880 --> 00:34:12,760
My grandfather, Leslie Weir,
636
00:34:12,840 --> 00:34:14,840
who loved this part of the world
so much
637
00:34:14,920 --> 00:34:17,840
and was such a close friend
of the 13th Dalai Lama
638
00:34:18,040 --> 00:34:21,840
would be so proud and thrilled
to think that I'd had an audience
639
00:34:21,960 --> 00:34:24,680
with the 14th Dalai Lama
up here in Dharamsala.
640
00:34:31,040 --> 00:34:33,440
[SIGHS DEEPLY] Blessed day.
641
00:34:38,360 --> 00:34:42,000
"The end of our exploring
will be to arrive where we started
642
00:34:42,080 --> 00:34:44,360
"and know the place for the first time."
643
00:34:46,480 --> 00:34:49,000
The last chapter of my journey
is Kashmir,
644
00:34:49,080 --> 00:34:50,320
where I was born.
645
00:34:54,040 --> 00:34:57,000
The beauty of this region
has been renowned for centuries.
646
00:34:58,160 --> 00:34:59,720
But since India and Pakistan
647
00:34:59,800 --> 00:35:03,160
were split apart
in the Act of Partition in 1947,
648
00:35:03,640 --> 00:35:05,320
it's become a conflict zone.
649
00:35:07,280 --> 00:35:10,160
NEWSREEL NARRATOR: The chief dispute
between Pakistan and India
650
00:35:10,240 --> 00:35:13,120
has centred on the
principality of Kashmir in the north.
651
00:35:14,680 --> 00:35:16,800
Behind its peaceful exterior,
652
00:35:16,960 --> 00:35:19,240
Kashmir has been a land of conflict.
653
00:35:19,800 --> 00:35:24,680
With Partition, its Muslim majority
was determined to join Pakistan,
654
00:35:24,760 --> 00:35:27,440
while its Hindu government
acceded to India.
655
00:35:30,960 --> 00:35:34,160
LUMLEY: Today, there are half a million
Indian troops in Kashmir,
656
00:35:34,240 --> 00:35:37,640
trying to quell demands from
a powerful independence movement
657
00:35:37,720 --> 00:35:40,880
in a conflict that's killed
47,000 people.
658
00:35:44,040 --> 00:35:47,200
I'm thrilled to be in Srinagar,
the city where I was born,
659
00:35:47,280 --> 00:35:51,040
but it breaks my heart that
this beautiful land is now so troubled.
660
00:36:00,880 --> 00:36:03,720
Through the ages,
the stunning lakes have drawn people
661
00:36:03,800 --> 00:36:06,960
who want to shelter from
the summer heat of the Indian plains.
662
00:36:10,240 --> 00:36:13,400
Altaf has offered me
fabulous accommodation.
663
00:36:13,520 --> 00:36:15,800
-Oh, Altaf, look at this.
-Please, welcome.
664
00:36:16,000 --> 00:36:18,040
Tell me when houseboats
first came to the lake.
665
00:36:18,880 --> 00:36:20,800
Well, around 1800s.
666
00:36:20,880 --> 00:36:23,680
This is an idea from the British Empire,
667
00:36:23,760 --> 00:36:26,520
when they were not allowed
to buy land in Kashmir
668
00:36:26,600 --> 00:36:29,480
and they came with this fabulous idea
of making houseboats.
669
00:36:29,560 --> 00:36:31,120
Now, what's happened?
670
00:36:31,200 --> 00:36:33,680
Because tourism has fallen right off.
671
00:36:33,760 --> 00:36:37,600
Kashmir has a problem.
It has been a problem
672
00:36:37,680 --> 00:36:39,400
since making of India and Pakistan.
673
00:36:39,480 --> 00:36:42,120
Kashmir was neither
a part of India or Pakistan.
674
00:36:42,200 --> 00:36:44,240
So, when the... When the Partition came,
675
00:36:44,440 --> 00:36:47,440
-it was sort of blocked on with India.
-Absolutely, yeah.
676
00:36:47,520 --> 00:36:52,320
And yes, many people here will say that
that was not really right thing to do,
677
00:36:52,400 --> 00:36:55,280
but being...
Looking at a business point of view,
678
00:36:55,360 --> 00:36:58,160
I think it's really great
to be with India.
679
00:36:58,240 --> 00:36:59,280
Because?
680
00:36:59,360 --> 00:37:03,040
Because of the growth in India, which is
really, really big at the moment.
681
00:37:03,200 --> 00:37:05,080
LUMLEY: People will come, won't they?
682
00:37:05,160 --> 00:37:07,320
-It's just heavenly!
-It's heaven, yeah.
683
00:37:07,560 --> 00:37:10,960
My parents were married here in Srinagar
and they had a honeymoon
684
00:37:11,040 --> 00:37:12,640
-on one of these houseboats.
-Oh, how wonderful. Lovely.
685
00:37:12,720 --> 00:37:14,600
Goodness knows which one
and I'm sure it's gone,
686
00:37:14,680 --> 00:37:16,600
but they simply adored
this part of the world.
687
00:37:16,680 --> 00:37:20,080
I'm so proud of being a Kashmiri.
I boast about it all the time.
688
00:37:20,160 --> 00:37:22,240
People say, "What can you remember?"
And you say, "Nothing."
689
00:37:22,920 --> 00:37:24,840
[BOTH CHUCKLING]
690
00:37:29,840 --> 00:37:32,200
"Shalimar"! This is me. Come in.
691
00:37:33,200 --> 00:37:35,880
So this is my room. Look!
I mean, look at this room.
692
00:37:36,640 --> 00:37:39,120
Gorgeous little flowers
sprinkled on the bed.
693
00:37:39,240 --> 00:37:41,960
And here, this is Mummy and Daddy
on their wedding day.
694
00:37:43,120 --> 00:37:45,640
And this would have been here
in Srinagar, at the church.
695
00:37:46,440 --> 00:37:48,520
Isn't that just too sweet for words?
696
00:37:49,880 --> 00:37:53,040
Those are sweet pictures.
That was Mummy on her wedding day, here.
697
00:37:53,600 --> 00:37:55,200
But this is the picture of me.
698
00:37:55,280 --> 00:37:57,760
That's about what I looked like
when I left here.
699
00:37:58,280 --> 00:38:01,040
In some way,
pretty similar to how I am now.
700
00:38:02,560 --> 00:38:04,240
Slightly fat face, grinning,
701
00:38:04,960 --> 00:38:08,400
with, um, with... On top.
So not much changed.
702
00:38:11,120 --> 00:38:15,040
In the summertime, the lakes are covered
with lilies and lotus blossom,
703
00:38:15,120 --> 00:38:17,960
which women in small boats
collect for cattle fodder.
704
00:38:18,600 --> 00:38:22,680
Now it's early spring
and perfect for vegetables.
705
00:38:28,840 --> 00:38:32,680
It's just before dawn
and I've hitched a ride in a shikara
706
00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:34,800
to find the floating market
that's been happening here
707
00:38:34,880 --> 00:38:37,120
every morning for over a hundred years.
708
00:38:40,920 --> 00:38:42,880
[INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS]
709
00:38:44,080 --> 00:38:47,080
So, this is the vegetable market
in the early morning. Whoo!
710
00:38:47,160 --> 00:38:50,040
I'm in danger of being speared
by these huge boats which come...
711
00:38:50,120 --> 00:38:52,520
[EXCLAIMS] Ah!
712
00:38:53,720 --> 00:38:56,840
And they just appear to be selling
leaves to each other.
713
00:38:57,480 --> 00:38:59,920
And they weigh a bit of leaves
and they look at each other's leaves
714
00:39:00,000 --> 00:39:02,640
and say disparagingly,
"Those leaves are no good."
715
00:39:02,720 --> 00:39:05,160
Look, a bit of haggling over leaves.
Good leaves? Bad leaves?
716
00:39:05,640 --> 00:39:07,760
It's fabulous!
717
00:39:08,840 --> 00:39:12,600
This market has proved impervious
not only to army curfews
718
00:39:12,680 --> 00:39:14,440
but also to the devastating floods
719
00:39:14,520 --> 00:39:17,400
that three years ago
destroyed this whole area.
720
00:39:19,360 --> 00:39:22,240
Excuse me, sir? Can I... Can I buy some?
721
00:39:23,400 --> 00:39:24,920
Can I have some of these?
722
00:39:25,040 --> 00:39:26,160
-Huh?
-[INDISTINCT REPLY]
723
00:39:27,320 --> 00:39:29,320
The traders usually
barter with each other,
724
00:39:29,400 --> 00:39:31,680
but seem delighted to take my cash.
725
00:39:33,160 --> 00:39:35,120
Thank you. Dhanyavaad. [LAUGHS]
726
00:39:35,280 --> 00:39:36,320
Goodbye.
727
00:39:36,760 --> 00:39:38,360
Goodbye. Mr Wonderful?
728
00:39:39,080 --> 00:39:41,440
Do you have any blue poppy seeds?
729
00:39:41,600 --> 00:39:43,280
-I have three colours...
-LUMLEY: Blue, yeah, bluey.
730
00:39:43,400 --> 00:39:45,080
Purple poppy, green poppy
and blue poppy.
731
00:39:45,160 --> 00:39:46,320
[INHALES SHARPLY] I love them!
732
00:39:46,400 --> 00:39:50,120
I have such, um, such a disappointing
record with poppies every year.
733
00:39:50,400 --> 00:39:54,040
Oh, look, here it is.
Who does not want to buy that?
734
00:39:54,120 --> 00:39:56,240
-How much will that be?
-Six thousand rupees.
735
00:39:56,320 --> 00:40:00,000
-Six thousand? I'm...
-Rupees, rupees, 6,000 rupees.
736
00:40:00,080 --> 00:40:01,320
Twenty packets.
737
00:40:01,400 --> 00:40:03,560
-I don't want 20 packets.
-Ten packets?
738
00:40:04,320 --> 00:40:05,360
Five packets.
739
00:40:05,960 --> 00:40:07,920
Actually, I don't know
why I'm being so mean.
740
00:40:08,000 --> 00:40:11,680
I went to the ATM
and I got out stacks of money.
741
00:40:11,760 --> 00:40:14,640
There's something unbelievably
sort of mean about me.
742
00:40:14,720 --> 00:40:16,120
I'm quite mean.
743
00:40:16,720 --> 00:40:19,680
I think I'd be quite happy
with a garden just full of poppies.
744
00:40:19,760 --> 00:40:22,280
I saw a film in the '60s called,
it was Fellini,
745
00:40:22,360 --> 00:40:24,880
and it was called
Giulietta degli spiriti,
746
00:40:25,120 --> 00:40:27,720
and it was a pretty, like, trippy film.
747
00:40:28,280 --> 00:40:29,840
And they had great poppies.
748
00:40:29,920 --> 00:40:31,000
Perfect.
749
00:40:31,080 --> 00:40:33,920
-You happy?
-I am very happy.
750
00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:37,120
-When people happy, I'm happy.
-I'm happy.
751
00:40:37,200 --> 00:40:39,560
-God is happy.
-[LAUGHS] This is the way it is.
752
00:40:43,280 --> 00:40:45,280
[HORNS TOOTING]
753
00:40:52,960 --> 00:40:55,160
The old town of Srinagar, unlike me,
754
00:40:55,280 --> 00:40:57,680
appears not to have changed
for 70 years.
755
00:40:59,960 --> 00:41:02,480
It's extraordinary. It feels like
a completely different country.
756
00:41:02,560 --> 00:41:05,840
It doesn't feel like India at all here.
757
00:41:06,680 --> 00:41:08,200
It just feels...
Well, it feels like Kashmir,
758
00:41:08,280 --> 00:41:09,480
that's the truth of it.
759
00:41:09,560 --> 00:41:12,240
It's mostly Muslim.
Gorgeous fresh vegetables.
760
00:41:12,760 --> 00:41:14,920
Sad butcher shops which I don't look at,
761
00:41:15,000 --> 00:41:17,120
but then I look at
gorgeous vegetables again.
762
00:41:17,200 --> 00:41:20,240
And the architecture is different
and the air is different and...
763
00:41:21,080 --> 00:41:22,560
-Puppy dog.
-[DOG BARKING]
764
00:41:23,760 --> 00:41:25,560
Puppies are different.
Well, actually, puppies are the same.
765
00:41:25,640 --> 00:41:28,160
-[MUEZZIN CALLING]
-[GASPS] Call to prayer.
766
00:41:31,400 --> 00:41:36,120
MUEZZIN:
♪ Allahu Akbar ♪
767
00:41:39,800 --> 00:41:43,240
LUMLEY: There's a place across town
that I really want to visit.
768
00:41:50,560 --> 00:41:54,640
Well, this is extraordinary, to be back
at what was the Residency in Srinagar.
769
00:41:54,720 --> 00:41:58,040
It's now
the Kashmir Government Arts Emporium.
770
00:41:58,480 --> 00:42:00,680
But this is where my grandparents
lived for a bit,
771
00:42:00,760 --> 00:42:02,640
where my mother and father
were certainly married.
772
00:42:02,720 --> 00:42:04,920
They would have had
their wedding reception here.
773
00:42:05,800 --> 00:42:09,200
When I was a little baby and
I had been born here in the Gupta Road
774
00:42:09,280 --> 00:42:13,160
in the Mission Hospital,
a little baby I would have been here.
775
00:42:13,240 --> 00:42:15,120
And then, there was a tragedy
776
00:42:15,200 --> 00:42:18,200
and the building burnt down
and was rebuilt in the 1990s.
777
00:42:18,280 --> 00:42:20,880
They've sort of kept it
to what it looked like,
778
00:42:20,960 --> 00:42:22,640
which, you've got to admit,
779
00:42:22,720 --> 00:42:25,440
is Surrey stockbrokers' belt.
It is! Look at it.
780
00:42:26,280 --> 00:42:28,440
What happened to the British?
We used to come abroad
781
00:42:28,520 --> 00:42:31,280
with the most heavenly architecture
available to us and say,
782
00:42:31,400 --> 00:42:33,760
"I think we'll put
a little bit of home here."
783
00:42:33,840 --> 00:42:35,520
Anyway, this is what it looked like.
784
00:42:35,600 --> 00:42:36,800
It's so gorgeous to be back.
785
00:42:36,880 --> 00:42:39,920
And to think, even though
I was chhota, chhota baby,
786
00:42:40,240 --> 00:42:43,960
with teeth growing, probably crying
through the night with pink cheeks,
787
00:42:44,040 --> 00:42:45,560
I was sleeping in here.
788
00:42:47,720 --> 00:42:49,120
[HUMS]
789
00:42:50,800 --> 00:42:53,880
Kashmir is a very fitting place
to end this immense journey.
790
00:42:57,600 --> 00:43:00,720
Starting in the southernmost
state of Tamil Nadu,
791
00:43:00,800 --> 00:43:04,840
we've travelled over 5,000 miles
around this mesmerising country
792
00:43:04,920 --> 00:43:07,520
and now we're finally drawn
to the foothills of the Himalayas,
793
00:43:07,600 --> 00:43:08,800
in the extreme north.
794
00:43:08,880 --> 00:43:09,920
Oh!
795
00:43:11,040 --> 00:43:12,320
Wow!
796
00:43:17,040 --> 00:43:18,960
This is the Vale of Kashmir.
797
00:43:20,040 --> 00:43:22,440
All spread out
with memories of my family.
798
00:43:22,680 --> 00:43:26,200
You can see the soft lakes
and rivers joining up
799
00:43:26,280 --> 00:43:28,640
and behind them,
the white snows of the Himalayas.
800
00:43:29,280 --> 00:43:31,280
And this is the end
of our extraordinary journey.
801
00:43:31,880 --> 00:43:36,240
Just to think, we started at Kanyakumari
right down in the southern tip of India
802
00:43:36,840 --> 00:43:38,440
and then it just seemed to explode.
803
00:43:38,520 --> 00:43:41,760
We went up to Madurai
and saw fabulous temples.
804
00:43:42,920 --> 00:43:45,440
India has shown me
such incredible diversity,
805
00:43:45,520 --> 00:43:47,520
optimism and tolerance.
806
00:43:47,600 --> 00:43:50,120
It really is a unique
and glorious country.
807
00:43:51,080 --> 00:43:53,200
We went into tea plantations
808
00:43:53,280 --> 00:43:56,720
and followed wild elephants,
who suddenly appeared especially for us.
809
00:43:57,120 --> 00:43:58,400
We went up to Hyderabad.
810
00:43:59,080 --> 00:44:01,040
Extraordinary city.
I was made into a goddess.
811
00:44:01,440 --> 00:44:02,760
I'm pretty much like that.
812
00:44:03,160 --> 00:44:04,480
We went to Calcutta,
813
00:44:04,600 --> 00:44:08,760
and there we went into something
out of a kind of Dickens dream,
814
00:44:08,840 --> 00:44:10,360
the jute mill.
815
00:44:10,520 --> 00:44:14,360
The country faces huge problems
of poverty and population growth
816
00:44:14,440 --> 00:44:17,040
but it's on the cusp
of becoming a superpower
817
00:44:17,120 --> 00:44:19,240
and its potential is immeasurable.
818
00:44:19,920 --> 00:44:22,440
We went to Gujarat
in the west part of the country
819
00:44:22,520 --> 00:44:25,280
and went to a Dalit community
who were so friendly to us
820
00:44:25,400 --> 00:44:28,600
but phew, eye-opening
how some people have to live.
821
00:44:28,680 --> 00:44:31,160
The tragedies of the Dalit community.
822
00:44:31,240 --> 00:44:35,440
But then we went to stay in a palace
with a maharaja,
823
00:44:35,520 --> 00:44:37,120
which was extraordinary!
824
00:44:37,200 --> 00:44:39,200
And his old palace,
because most of us have two,
825
00:44:39,280 --> 00:44:40,440
the new palace and the old palace.
826
00:44:40,560 --> 00:44:44,040
His old palace up in the hill
had the finest wall paintings
827
00:44:44,120 --> 00:44:45,560
known in India.
828
00:44:46,800 --> 00:44:48,440
Honestly, India.
829
00:44:48,520 --> 00:44:50,400
India has got everything.
830
00:44:51,760 --> 00:44:53,720
You'd be mad not to come here.
67930
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