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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,268 --> 00:00:03,760 (serene orchestral music) 2 00:00:03,760 --> 00:00:06,170 - I'm traveling along the world's longest river, 3 00:00:06,170 --> 00:00:09,333 the Nile, 4,000 miles from sea to source. 4 00:00:11,840 --> 00:00:14,433 It's the most remarkable journey I've ever made. 5 00:00:16,795 --> 00:00:19,508 (twinkling suspenseful music) 6 00:00:19,508 --> 00:00:20,341 Look how wide it is. 7 00:00:20,341 --> 00:00:21,743 It's a huge river. 8 00:00:22,640 --> 00:00:25,043 My adventure started two weeks ago in Egypt. 9 00:00:27,799 --> 00:00:28,632 Hello, darling. 10 00:00:28,632 --> 00:00:31,300 Hello, sweetheart. (tongue clicking) 11 00:00:31,300 --> 00:00:33,890 I followed in the footsteps of Agatha Christie. 12 00:00:33,890 --> 00:00:35,450 We think that's the winner. 13 00:00:35,450 --> 00:00:37,180 (crowd cheers) 14 00:00:37,180 --> 00:00:39,920 Marveled at the beauty of this mighty river. 15 00:00:39,920 --> 00:00:41,520 It's pretty unspoiled, isn't it? 16 00:00:42,360 --> 00:00:45,672 And heard tales of spirits hiding in the depths. 17 00:00:45,672 --> 00:00:47,370 (man speaking in foreign language) 18 00:00:47,370 --> 00:00:49,451 I'll come and sort that demon out for you. 19 00:00:49,451 --> 00:00:51,974 (man laughs) 20 00:00:51,974 --> 00:00:55,383 But I'm less than a quarter of the way through my journey. 21 00:00:55,383 --> 00:00:56,216 (children laughing) 22 00:00:56,216 --> 00:00:58,233 I still have four more countries to go, 23 00:01:01,264 --> 00:01:04,378 all in my quest to reach the source of the Nile. 24 00:01:04,378 --> 00:01:05,285 - [Guide] Here we are. 25 00:01:05,285 --> 00:01:06,741 - Oh my gosh! 26 00:01:06,741 --> 00:01:10,408 (dramatic orchestral music) 27 00:01:35,055 --> 00:01:38,472 (soft suspenseful music) 28 00:01:46,040 --> 00:01:47,810 It's late afternoon. 29 00:01:47,810 --> 00:01:50,210 I've just boarded the weekly ferry that's taking me 30 00:01:50,210 --> 00:01:53,563 from Egypt into Sudan across Lake Nasser. 31 00:01:57,293 --> 00:01:58,983 When I was a child, we used to travel across the world 32 00:01:58,983 --> 00:02:01,000 like this on ships all the time. 33 00:02:01,000 --> 00:02:02,691 The army traveled by ship. 34 00:02:02,691 --> 00:02:04,130 We didn't fly in those days. 35 00:02:04,130 --> 00:02:06,870 We used to lean on the rails like this and just look 36 00:02:06,870 --> 00:02:09,487 and look at the waves turning white like this. 37 00:02:09,487 --> 00:02:11,930 And the sea I can remember being dark blue. 38 00:02:11,930 --> 00:02:13,730 I remember my mother putting out her hand 39 00:02:13,730 --> 00:02:16,170 and she had a sapphire engagement ring 40 00:02:16,170 --> 00:02:19,110 and she said, "The sea is the color of sapphires." 41 00:02:19,110 --> 00:02:21,560 And I then knew what the color of sapphires were. 42 00:02:23,850 --> 00:02:26,500 Lake Nasser was created when a huge dam 43 00:02:26,500 --> 00:02:29,400 was built across the River Nile at Aswan. 44 00:02:29,400 --> 00:02:31,660 At just over 300 miles long, 45 00:02:31,660 --> 00:02:33,973 it's the world's largest man-made lake. 46 00:02:35,400 --> 00:02:38,173 It's colossal to think one river has made this. 47 00:02:43,283 --> 00:02:44,230 (jaunty music) 48 00:02:44,230 --> 00:02:48,850 My journey along the Nile began two weeks ago in Alexandria. 49 00:02:48,850 --> 00:02:51,960 I've already traveled 700 miles to Aswan 50 00:02:51,960 --> 00:02:54,710 where I joined the ferry to take me across Lake Nasser. 51 00:02:57,280 --> 00:03:00,370 Once in Sudan, I'll be following the river to Khartoum, 52 00:03:00,370 --> 00:03:04,083 Sudan's capital, where the Nile is joined by the Blue Nile. 53 00:03:05,160 --> 00:03:07,100 Here, I'll take a new direction, 54 00:03:07,100 --> 00:03:09,893 following the river into the highlands of Ethiopia. 55 00:03:11,290 --> 00:03:14,820 I'll then rejoin the Nile in war-torn Southern Sudan, 56 00:03:14,820 --> 00:03:18,750 continuing south through Uganda, across Lake Victoria, 57 00:03:18,750 --> 00:03:21,650 and pushing on into Rwanda where my journey 58 00:03:21,650 --> 00:03:24,383 on the world's longest river will come to an end. 59 00:03:28,240 --> 00:03:31,157 (mysterious music) 60 00:03:45,490 --> 00:03:47,520 It's going to take me 18 hours to get 61 00:03:47,520 --> 00:03:50,863 to the Sudanese border, so plenty of time for dinner. 62 00:03:51,860 --> 00:03:53,454 - I see you in the films. 63 00:03:53,454 --> 00:03:54,287 - Oh. - Before. 64 00:03:54,287 --> 00:03:55,120 - Did you? 65 00:03:55,120 --> 00:03:55,953 - Yeah. - Oh. 66 00:03:57,995 --> 00:03:59,298 - Maybe-- - Maybe on television 67 00:03:59,298 --> 00:04:00,144 or something like that. 68 00:04:00,144 --> 00:04:01,110 - Television. - Maybe television. 69 00:04:01,110 --> 00:04:02,680 - Yeah, James Bond. 70 00:04:02,680 --> 00:04:03,550 - Egyptian? 71 00:04:03,550 --> 00:04:05,160 - James Bond, Bond. 72 00:04:05,160 --> 00:04:05,993 - James Bond! 73 00:04:05,993 --> 00:04:06,826 - Yeah. - Yeah. 74 00:04:06,826 --> 00:04:07,659 - You. 75 00:04:07,659 --> 00:04:08,656 - On Her Majesty's Secret Service. 76 00:04:08,656 --> 00:04:09,606 - I remember it. 77 00:04:09,606 --> 00:04:12,593 (Joanna and man laugh) 78 00:04:12,593 --> 00:04:13,784 - [Joanna] That's wonderful. 79 00:04:13,784 --> 00:04:15,380 - Okay. - That's wonderful. 80 00:04:15,380 --> 00:04:16,260 I'm a Bond girl. 81 00:04:17,610 --> 00:04:19,420 Gosh, I didn't think I'd be recognized 82 00:04:19,420 --> 00:04:21,458 as a Bond girl on a ferry. 83 00:04:21,458 --> 00:04:26,458 (passengers chattering in foreign language) 84 00:04:27,140 --> 00:04:30,450 Here below deck in a sweltering 40 degree heat, 85 00:04:30,450 --> 00:04:32,670 Sudanese workers are traveling home 86 00:04:32,670 --> 00:04:37,277 after working overseas from as far away as China and Dubai. 87 00:04:37,277 --> 00:04:40,480 (passengers speaking in foreign language) 88 00:04:40,480 --> 00:04:42,820 I don't know how to say not meat. 89 00:04:42,820 --> 00:04:45,034 I've got some eggs, that's lovely. 90 00:04:45,034 --> 00:04:46,100 Thank you, (speaking in foreign language), 91 00:04:46,100 --> 00:04:47,073 thank you so much. 92 00:04:48,237 --> 00:04:51,850 (man speaking in foreign language) 93 00:04:51,850 --> 00:04:52,962 You speak English? 94 00:04:52,962 --> 00:04:54,000 - Yeah. - Oh, excellent. 95 00:04:54,000 --> 00:04:55,710 - My name is Magdi Osman. 96 00:04:55,710 --> 00:04:57,210 - [Joanna] Magdi, may I call you Magdi? 97 00:04:57,210 --> 00:04:58,150 - Yes, please. 98 00:04:58,150 --> 00:04:58,983 - Wonderful. 99 00:04:58,983 --> 00:04:59,910 This is delicious food. 100 00:04:59,910 --> 00:05:01,020 - Yeah, it's nice. 101 00:05:01,020 --> 00:05:02,850 This is local food. 102 00:05:02,850 --> 00:05:05,089 We call it in Arabic, (speaking in foreign language). 103 00:05:05,089 --> 00:05:05,922 (Joanna speaking in foreign language) 104 00:05:05,922 --> 00:05:08,939 The English name, the correct name is for it, 105 00:05:08,939 --> 00:05:09,772 I don't want to say. 106 00:05:09,772 --> 00:05:11,120 It's beans, just beans. 107 00:05:11,120 --> 00:05:12,487 Let's say beans. 108 00:05:12,487 --> 00:05:14,180 And I feel good when I eat it. 109 00:05:14,180 --> 00:05:15,310 I don't like meat too much. 110 00:05:15,310 --> 00:05:16,693 - Oh. - Yeah. 111 00:05:17,948 --> 00:05:21,290 - And you look, if I may say so, a very marvelous man. 112 00:05:21,290 --> 00:05:22,600 You look very healthy. 113 00:05:22,600 --> 00:05:25,735 - Thank you very much. (laughs) 114 00:05:25,735 --> 00:05:28,318 (jaunty music) 115 00:05:30,590 --> 00:05:32,590 - This boat may not be state of the art, 116 00:05:32,590 --> 00:05:35,314 but it seems to have all the creature comforts. 117 00:05:35,314 --> 00:05:36,147 (man speaking in foreign language) 118 00:05:36,147 --> 00:05:36,980 That smells wonderful. 119 00:05:38,186 --> 00:05:40,436 That is until it's time to get ready for bed. 120 00:05:48,230 --> 00:05:50,450 It's not that one's squeamish, but there's something 121 00:05:52,850 --> 00:05:54,983 sometimes a bit horrifying about some 122 00:05:54,983 --> 00:05:56,543 of the sort of lavatory arrangements. 123 00:06:00,901 --> 00:06:02,877 So you can't sort of smell what it's like in here, 124 00:06:02,877 --> 00:06:04,087 but it's not brilliant. 125 00:06:04,087 --> 00:06:05,830 And actually, if I had my way, 126 00:06:05,830 --> 00:06:08,550 I would be in here with gloves and scrubbing. 127 00:06:08,550 --> 00:06:10,760 I'd give this a really good scrub. 128 00:06:10,760 --> 00:06:11,593 Actually, it's all right. 129 00:06:11,593 --> 00:06:14,870 Once you've just got over it, you know. 130 00:06:14,870 --> 00:06:16,200 Quite a lot of life is like that. 131 00:06:16,200 --> 00:06:18,080 Just get over it and just do it. 132 00:06:18,080 --> 00:06:19,130 There we are, lovely. 133 00:06:22,235 --> 00:06:24,883 (groans) No, fine. 134 00:06:26,520 --> 00:06:29,103 (somber music) 135 00:06:41,243 --> 00:06:42,170 (Joanna speaking in foreign language) 136 00:06:42,170 --> 00:06:46,190 It's so hot downstairs that I want to sleep on deck. 137 00:06:46,190 --> 00:06:48,903 Unfortunately, so does everybody else. 138 00:06:49,890 --> 00:06:50,883 Thank you so much. 139 00:06:52,015 --> 00:06:53,330 (speaking in foreign language) Thank you. 140 00:06:53,330 --> 00:06:56,210 But with over 500 passengers, it looks like 141 00:06:56,210 --> 00:06:57,960 I should've bagged a place earlier. 142 00:07:01,640 --> 00:07:04,596 Maybe this is a little nice corner by these bottles. 143 00:07:04,596 --> 00:07:05,991 - [Passenger] Yeah, this place is the best one. 144 00:07:05,991 --> 00:07:07,156 - Is this a good-- - You are sleeping here, yeah? 145 00:07:07,156 --> 00:07:07,989 - Yeah, I certainly-- - That is the best place. 146 00:07:07,989 --> 00:07:09,173 - Is that a good place? 147 00:07:09,173 --> 00:07:10,006 - [Passenger] Yeah, yeah, yeah. 148 00:07:10,006 --> 00:07:10,970 - That's wonderful, thank you. 149 00:07:10,970 --> 00:07:13,000 I've seen a couple of little friendly cockroaches, 150 00:07:13,000 --> 00:07:15,270 but I think they'll be fine 'cause, you know, 151 00:07:15,270 --> 00:07:17,340 what's a cockroach between friends? 152 00:07:17,340 --> 00:07:19,180 It feels rather odd lying down with everyone else 153 00:07:19,180 --> 00:07:20,770 standing up, but there we are. 154 00:07:20,770 --> 00:07:22,920 This is me, and it's so warm 155 00:07:22,920 --> 00:07:24,570 I wouldn't need anything over me. 156 00:07:25,720 --> 00:07:26,973 This is comfortable. 157 00:07:27,890 --> 00:07:31,080 The word comfortable didn't sort of spring immediately 158 00:07:31,080 --> 00:07:32,800 to the lips, but I thought I'd just say it. 159 00:07:32,800 --> 00:07:34,240 I am comfortable. 160 00:07:34,240 --> 00:07:36,160 And the great thing is that I can hear 161 00:07:38,280 --> 00:07:39,833 the throb of the ship's engine, 162 00:07:42,800 --> 00:07:46,163 and I know that just there is the Nile swishing past. 163 00:07:47,071 --> 00:07:50,404 (soft mysterious music) 164 00:08:08,000 --> 00:08:11,243 As dawn breaks, we're just three hours away from Sudan. 165 00:08:14,890 --> 00:08:17,700 But before we get there, Egypt has one last treat 166 00:08:17,700 --> 00:08:20,790 for us as its most spectacular ancient monument 167 00:08:20,790 --> 00:08:22,380 comes into sight: 168 00:08:22,380 --> 00:08:25,620 (twinkling mysterious music) 169 00:08:25,620 --> 00:08:28,063 the Great Temple at Abu Simbel. 170 00:08:32,670 --> 00:08:36,310 Abu Simbel is over 3,000 years old. 171 00:08:36,310 --> 00:08:39,010 Its centerpiece, carved from solid rock, 172 00:08:39,010 --> 00:08:42,030 is four colossal seated statues 173 00:08:42,030 --> 00:08:45,313 of one of Egypt's greatest rulers, Pharaoh Ramses II. 174 00:08:49,526 --> 00:08:51,203 I've seen Abu Simbel before. 175 00:08:52,372 --> 00:08:53,393 Phenomenal. 176 00:08:57,260 --> 00:08:58,360 (twinkling mysterious music) 177 00:08:58,360 --> 00:09:02,630 In the 1960s, this immense temple was nearly lost forever 178 00:09:02,630 --> 00:09:05,723 when this whole area was flooded to make Lake Nasser. 179 00:09:07,380 --> 00:09:10,403 But thankfully, over 50 countries came to the rescue. 180 00:09:12,791 --> 00:09:13,624 (upbeat drum music) 181 00:09:13,624 --> 00:09:17,063 At huge cost, it was cut into over a thousand pieces, 182 00:09:22,296 --> 00:09:26,796 and then rebuilt 200 feet above its original position, 183 00:09:28,250 --> 00:09:29,703 a miracle of engineering, 184 00:09:33,420 --> 00:09:35,893 preserving Abu Simbel forever. 185 00:09:41,520 --> 00:09:43,880 Finally, we arrive at our destination, 186 00:09:43,880 --> 00:09:45,863 the small port of Wadi Halfa. 187 00:09:47,360 --> 00:09:49,880 It's difficult to believe that this tiny strip 188 00:09:49,880 --> 00:09:52,490 of concrete is the gateway to Sudan, 189 00:09:52,490 --> 00:09:55,105 a country the size of Western Europe. 190 00:09:55,105 --> 00:09:56,385 (men speaking in foreign language) 191 00:09:56,385 --> 00:09:58,628 (jaunty music) 192 00:09:58,628 --> 00:10:01,210 (crowd chattering in foreign language) 193 00:10:01,210 --> 00:10:03,742 It's quite franticly hot on this quayside. 194 00:10:03,742 --> 00:10:07,410 (crowd chattering in foreign language) 195 00:10:07,410 --> 00:10:08,550 I've just seen our kit. 196 00:10:08,550 --> 00:10:09,700 It's beginning to go around there, 197 00:10:09,700 --> 00:10:10,820 so perhaps they're gonna make a sort 198 00:10:10,820 --> 00:10:12,302 of pile of it over there. 199 00:10:12,302 --> 00:10:15,500 (men chattering in foreign language) 200 00:10:15,500 --> 00:10:17,400 When we think of Sudan, we usually think 201 00:10:17,400 --> 00:10:20,317 of a country torn apart by civil war. 202 00:10:20,317 --> 00:10:21,890 (woman speaking in foreign language) 203 00:10:21,890 --> 00:10:24,200 Though the tribes of Darfur in the west of the country 204 00:10:24,200 --> 00:10:27,873 are still fighting, the north is relatively peaceful. 205 00:10:30,160 --> 00:10:32,766 Which means business as usual for most. 206 00:10:32,766 --> 00:10:37,349 (crowd chattering in foreign language) 207 00:10:44,310 --> 00:10:46,439 We've just gotta clear all this through customs. 208 00:10:46,439 --> 00:10:47,660 - [Man] Okay. 209 00:10:47,660 --> 00:10:49,130 - Which is just about to happen, 210 00:10:49,130 --> 00:10:54,130 and then we can get properly into the deserts of Sudan. 211 00:10:54,302 --> 00:10:57,719 (soft suspenseful music) 212 00:11:02,520 --> 00:11:05,680 Gone are the luxuries of Egypt, hotels, 213 00:11:05,680 --> 00:11:08,313 hot running water, and comfortable beds. 214 00:11:09,960 --> 00:11:11,780 For the next four days, we shall be camping 215 00:11:11,780 --> 00:11:15,173 under the stars, so we have to carry everything with us. 216 00:11:19,740 --> 00:11:23,400 It must be one of the most remote places on Earth. 217 00:11:23,400 --> 00:11:25,793 It's very exciting. 218 00:11:26,933 --> 00:11:30,683 (twinkling mysterious music) 219 00:11:35,750 --> 00:11:38,430 Leaving Wadi Halfa and the ferry behind us, 220 00:11:38,430 --> 00:11:42,120 we head 125 miles south to Wawa, 221 00:11:42,120 --> 00:11:44,019 where we're hoping to meet of the Nile's 222 00:11:44,019 --> 00:11:45,927 most feared creatures. 223 00:11:45,927 --> 00:11:49,260 (soft mysterious music) 224 00:11:51,854 --> 00:11:52,940 We're making our way down to the river 225 00:11:52,940 --> 00:11:56,910 to look for crocodiles, and the Arabic word 226 00:11:56,910 --> 00:11:58,927 for crocodile is (speaking in foreign language). 227 00:12:00,607 --> 00:12:02,060 So, we're hoping to see (speaking in foreign language) 228 00:12:02,060 --> 00:12:05,760 a huge (speaking in foreign language), yes? (chuckles) 229 00:12:05,760 --> 00:12:07,633 Mohammad laughing knowingly. 230 00:12:08,850 --> 00:12:12,370 But they do grow to the most immense size. 231 00:12:12,370 --> 00:12:13,750 I think I'm right in saying also 232 00:12:13,750 --> 00:12:16,130 that the Nile crocodile is the most aggressive 233 00:12:16,130 --> 00:12:18,200 of all the big, big crocodiles. 234 00:12:19,396 --> 00:12:21,590 (man speaking in foreign language) 235 00:12:21,590 --> 00:12:24,530 For many of us, the closest we've come to a crocodile 236 00:12:24,530 --> 00:12:26,680 is on the silver screen. 237 00:12:26,680 --> 00:12:27,670 (woman screams) 238 00:12:27,670 --> 00:12:30,080 (suspenseful music) 239 00:12:30,080 --> 00:12:33,764 Tarzan movies, the very stuff of Hollywood adventure. 240 00:12:33,764 --> 00:12:36,764 (suspenseful music) 241 00:12:38,450 --> 00:12:41,200 What I didn't know was that to save Jane, 242 00:12:41,200 --> 00:12:44,290 Tarzan was wrestling the Nile crocodile, 243 00:12:44,290 --> 00:12:47,183 the most dangerous freshwater predator in the world. 244 00:12:48,670 --> 00:12:51,240 It can grow to three times the length of a man 245 00:12:51,240 --> 00:12:53,167 and weigh as much as a small car. 246 00:12:56,698 --> 00:12:59,365 (ominous music) 247 00:13:02,442 --> 00:13:04,170 This is a bit Mad Dogs and Englishmen, 248 00:13:04,170 --> 00:13:05,680 but the truth is this is the best time 249 00:13:05,680 --> 00:13:07,290 to see crocodiles because this is the time 250 00:13:07,290 --> 00:13:09,610 they come out to bask when the sun is at its hottest. 251 00:13:09,610 --> 00:13:10,450 So we have to be here. 252 00:13:10,450 --> 00:13:13,483 I mean, it is fry egg hot plate. 253 00:13:16,540 --> 00:13:17,373 The river's lovely and cool. 254 00:13:17,373 --> 00:13:21,270 It just begs for you to jump in, but crocodiles. 255 00:13:21,270 --> 00:13:22,103 I think not. 256 00:13:23,438 --> 00:13:24,940 (Abdu speaking in foreign language) 257 00:13:24,940 --> 00:13:27,520 Local crocodile hunter, Abdu Mohammad, 258 00:13:27,520 --> 00:13:29,431 is helping me find this great reptile. 259 00:13:29,431 --> 00:13:32,848 (soft suspenseful music) 260 00:13:45,746 --> 00:13:47,429 I've just been staring at the same bit 261 00:13:47,429 --> 00:13:49,747 of sand now for a long time. 262 00:13:49,747 --> 00:13:52,747 (suspenseful music) 263 00:14:01,520 --> 00:14:02,630 - We're crossing over the river now 264 00:14:02,630 --> 00:14:05,610 because Abdu thinks he might have seen one. 265 00:14:05,610 --> 00:14:06,910 Of course I'm straining my eyes. 266 00:14:06,910 --> 00:14:10,290 Everything I see looks as it might be a crocodile. 267 00:14:10,290 --> 00:14:12,240 I'm sure I can see crocodile footsteps. 268 00:14:19,900 --> 00:14:23,178 - Abdu, does Abdu want me to go with him? 269 00:14:23,178 --> 00:14:24,011 - Abdu. (speaking in foreign language) 270 00:14:24,011 --> 00:14:24,965 - [Man] Do you want her to go? 271 00:14:24,965 --> 00:14:25,882 - Do you want me to come with you? 272 00:14:25,882 --> 00:14:26,826 - Yes. (speaking in foreign language) 273 00:14:26,826 --> 00:14:27,761 - Yes? - Yeah, he's happy, 274 00:14:27,761 --> 00:14:29,350 he's happy to go with you. 275 00:14:29,350 --> 00:14:31,250 - Why was I longing for him to say no? 276 00:14:32,877 --> 00:14:34,343 (sighs) Okay. 277 00:14:38,420 --> 00:14:40,020 I'll leave my sandals on so the crocodile's 278 00:14:40,020 --> 00:14:41,070 got something to eat. 279 00:14:42,990 --> 00:14:45,990 (suspenseful music) 280 00:14:50,700 --> 00:14:51,533 Oops. 281 00:15:04,020 --> 00:15:06,720 Unfortunately, we've been outsmarted. 282 00:15:06,720 --> 00:15:08,433 The crocodiles have gone. 283 00:15:10,150 --> 00:15:12,050 But we've only missed them by minutes. 284 00:15:14,360 --> 00:15:15,740 - [Abdu] Yes, about here. 285 00:15:15,740 --> 00:15:16,696 - [Joanna] Yeah? 286 00:15:16,696 --> 00:15:17,728 - And here. (speaking in foreign language) 287 00:15:17,728 --> 00:15:18,561 - And there. 288 00:15:18,561 --> 00:15:19,820 About there from there, there it is. 289 00:15:19,820 --> 00:15:20,820 - Four kilometers. 290 00:15:20,820 --> 00:15:23,347 - Four meters? - Four meters. 291 00:15:23,347 --> 00:15:25,680 - Four meters. - Four meters. 292 00:15:26,577 --> 00:15:27,850 - That's huge. 293 00:15:27,850 --> 00:15:28,683 - [Abdu] Yes. 294 00:15:29,730 --> 00:15:33,840 - Can you tell by the footmarks, man or woman crocodile? 295 00:15:33,840 --> 00:15:35,293 Male or female? 296 00:16:03,936 --> 00:16:04,769 (Joanna mimics bones cracking) 297 00:16:04,769 --> 00:16:05,942 - Yeah. - Yes. 298 00:16:05,942 --> 00:16:08,710 (Joanna laughs) 299 00:16:08,710 --> 00:16:10,543 - Not us, Abdu, not us. 300 00:16:12,060 --> 00:16:13,363 I wish we could see one. 301 00:16:14,432 --> 00:16:16,157 (ominous music) 302 00:16:16,157 --> 00:16:16,990 Oh! 303 00:16:18,710 --> 00:16:22,070 Sadly, crocodiles are big business in Africa. 304 00:16:22,070 --> 00:16:24,280 Every year sales of their valuable skins 305 00:16:24,280 --> 00:16:27,123 fetch over 150 million pounds. 306 00:16:30,340 --> 00:16:32,860 Though the crocodile provides a living for some, 307 00:16:32,860 --> 00:16:35,440 it's feared by most, and not without reason 308 00:16:35,440 --> 00:16:38,763 as they kill as many as 500 people every year. 309 00:16:41,180 --> 00:16:44,830 And these two holes here are the ones which these, 310 00:16:44,830 --> 00:16:46,840 those are baby teeth but at the bottom, 311 00:16:46,840 --> 00:16:51,840 these immense front incisors fit into the slots up there. 312 00:16:52,290 --> 00:16:54,620 So you have this interlocking, which means that if 313 00:16:54,620 --> 00:16:58,367 it's grabbed something, it's absolutely welded on. 314 00:16:58,367 --> 00:17:00,860 (soft suspenseful music) 315 00:17:00,860 --> 00:17:02,310 Well, croc, you met your end. 316 00:17:03,900 --> 00:17:06,190 It was a monster like this that nearly ended the life 317 00:17:06,190 --> 00:17:08,393 of local fisherman Hamid Abd el-Rassul. 318 00:17:09,900 --> 00:17:11,100 Hamid, come and show me. 319 00:17:18,920 --> 00:17:23,003 - And it (mimics jaws snapping). 320 00:17:26,950 --> 00:17:28,400 - Oh, he's got you like that. 321 00:17:29,500 --> 00:17:32,540 And then, he's going along? 322 00:17:32,540 --> 00:17:34,703 Look he climbs over onto the top. 323 00:17:36,440 --> 00:17:37,313 Like this? 324 00:17:53,170 --> 00:17:54,003 - Gee! 325 00:17:56,550 --> 00:17:58,337 - Go, ow. 326 00:17:58,337 --> 00:18:00,810 - Oh, ow, ow, ow, ow, ow. 327 00:18:00,810 --> 00:18:02,330 Ow, ow. 328 00:18:02,330 --> 00:18:03,163 Sit down. 329 00:18:04,100 --> 00:18:08,180 Hamid took 10 hours to crawl the five miles home in agony. 330 00:18:08,180 --> 00:18:09,980 Oh exhausted, have to rest again, 331 00:18:09,980 --> 00:18:12,180 probably losing quite a lot of blood, too. 332 00:18:12,180 --> 00:18:15,000 And then wake up and still this awful bleeding leg. 333 00:18:15,000 --> 00:18:16,540 For 10 hours. 334 00:18:16,540 --> 00:18:18,053 And how long in hospital? 335 00:18:22,843 --> 00:18:23,793 - Okay for walking? 336 00:18:26,860 --> 00:18:29,244 - Thank you, Hamid. (speaking in foreign language) 337 00:18:29,244 --> 00:18:30,638 (Hamid speaking in foreign language) 338 00:18:30,638 --> 00:18:32,140 (soft suspenseful music) 339 00:18:32,140 --> 00:18:33,570 Despite these tales of horror, 340 00:18:33,570 --> 00:18:36,140 I still want to see a crocodile. 341 00:18:36,140 --> 00:18:37,670 We've been told they're back, 342 00:18:37,670 --> 00:18:40,010 so we head to the river for one last look. 343 00:18:40,879 --> 00:18:43,879 (suspenseful music) 344 00:18:49,479 --> 00:18:50,826 Suddenly in the middle of the river. 345 00:18:50,826 --> 00:18:54,159 Look, look, look, that huge, huge thing. 346 00:18:55,876 --> 00:18:59,126 Looks like a log, but it's a crocodile. 347 00:19:00,802 --> 00:19:03,060 It's difficult to tell over the water how huge it is, 348 00:19:03,060 --> 00:19:06,340 but I guess if it looks that big and it's in the middle 349 00:19:06,340 --> 00:19:10,477 of the river, it must be at least 18 or 20 feet long. 350 00:19:11,460 --> 00:19:13,800 This animal is extraordinary. 351 00:19:13,800 --> 00:19:16,790 It evolved 200 million years ago 352 00:19:16,790 --> 00:19:19,260 and it even outlived the dinosaurs. 353 00:19:19,260 --> 00:19:20,193 Pretty impressive. 354 00:19:21,470 --> 00:19:22,780 The truth is, we're not gonna see them 355 00:19:22,780 --> 00:19:24,260 out of the water today. 356 00:19:24,260 --> 00:19:25,320 It's too cool. 357 00:19:25,320 --> 00:19:28,303 It's only about 130, far too cool for a crocodile. 358 00:19:29,290 --> 00:19:30,857 Jolly cool for me, actually. 359 00:19:32,110 --> 00:19:34,653 Okay, let's go and get some blankets. 360 00:19:37,133 --> 00:19:40,550 (soft suspenseful music) 361 00:19:42,190 --> 00:19:44,110 In a couple of hours it'll be dark, 362 00:19:44,110 --> 00:19:46,290 so we're heading off into the Nubian Desert 363 00:19:46,290 --> 00:19:48,190 to find somewhere to put up our tents. 364 00:19:50,404 --> 00:19:52,047 The thing is, we're going into the desert 365 00:19:52,047 --> 00:19:54,857 because there are mosquitoes on the banks of the Nile. 366 00:19:54,857 --> 00:19:56,307 So it'll be lovely. 367 00:19:56,307 --> 00:19:58,596 Pretty exciting to camp bang in the desert. 368 00:19:58,596 --> 00:20:01,596 (suspenseful music) 369 00:20:13,240 --> 00:20:15,200 This is really beautiful. 370 00:20:15,200 --> 00:20:17,580 Because we really are in the middle of nowhere. 371 00:20:17,580 --> 00:20:18,860 I mean, you've heard of the back of beyond. 372 00:20:18,860 --> 00:20:20,530 This is beyond the back of beyond. 373 00:20:20,530 --> 00:20:22,860 It's just nowhere. 374 00:20:22,860 --> 00:20:24,723 It's fantastically exciting. 375 00:20:26,050 --> 00:20:29,320 This is the best campsite on Earth for tonight. 376 00:20:29,320 --> 00:20:31,330 And the lads are starting already. 377 00:20:31,330 --> 00:20:32,820 Idea, I think I'll walk up a bit slowly 378 00:20:32,820 --> 00:20:35,895 so I just won't be there quite at the beginning. 379 00:20:35,895 --> 00:20:37,700 (man speaking in foreign language) 380 00:20:37,700 --> 00:20:38,663 Good, great. 381 00:20:39,648 --> 00:20:42,231 (jaunty music) 382 00:20:45,830 --> 00:20:47,033 I couldn't be happier. 383 00:20:47,910 --> 00:20:52,670 We've four drivers, two cooks, one policeman, 384 00:20:52,670 --> 00:20:55,534 and Musab Abeidi, our guide and translator. 385 00:20:55,534 --> 00:20:56,611 (Musab speaking in foreign language) 386 00:20:56,611 --> 00:20:58,497 Ah, nothing left for me to do. 387 00:20:58,497 --> 00:21:00,690 (hammer tapping) 388 00:21:00,690 --> 00:21:03,363 My case is called rather ambitiously Marco Polo. 389 00:21:08,180 --> 00:21:09,013 This is my bed. 390 00:21:14,170 --> 00:21:15,003 It's lovely. 391 00:21:16,296 --> 00:21:19,629 (soft mysterious music) 392 00:21:38,350 --> 00:21:39,740 It's pretty odd to be writing a journal 393 00:21:39,740 --> 00:21:41,440 and put at the top of it Nubian Desert. 394 00:21:41,440 --> 00:21:44,366 I never thought I'd write that in my life. 395 00:21:44,366 --> 00:21:46,087 (Joanna gasps) 396 00:21:46,087 --> 00:21:47,910 The sun's beginning to go. 397 00:21:47,910 --> 00:21:50,660 Everywhere I am in the world, if I can, 398 00:21:50,660 --> 00:21:52,360 I try to watch the sun going down. 399 00:21:54,390 --> 00:21:56,370 Where we live in Scotland, 400 00:21:56,370 --> 00:21:58,050 we watch the sun going down every night. 401 00:21:58,050 --> 00:21:59,883 We can't bear to miss the sun going. 402 00:22:01,750 --> 00:22:05,987 Dear diary, give everything away 403 00:22:09,400 --> 00:22:12,533 and camp. 404 00:22:14,360 --> 00:22:17,793 I didn't write that 'cause it's not true. (laughs) 405 00:22:28,902 --> 00:22:31,610 On the menu tonight is Nile tilapia, 406 00:22:31,610 --> 00:22:34,050 but as I am vegetarian, they've kindly prepared me 407 00:22:34,050 --> 00:22:35,473 some beans and chips. 408 00:22:38,663 --> 00:22:42,913 (men speaking in foreign language) 409 00:22:49,031 --> 00:22:50,920 (lighter clicking) 410 00:22:50,920 --> 00:22:51,753 Hm. 411 00:22:55,700 --> 00:22:56,630 Isn't this lovely? 412 00:22:56,630 --> 00:22:58,880 Look, this is the flashy, flashy torch. 413 00:22:58,880 --> 00:23:01,380 It does all that, which is exciting. 414 00:23:01,380 --> 00:23:03,120 So when you're lighting your candles, your cigarette, 415 00:23:03,120 --> 00:23:04,890 everything, this just goes on and on. 416 00:23:04,890 --> 00:23:06,873 And then, when it's stopped, 417 00:23:07,860 --> 00:23:09,900 shine the other end and you think it's a torch, 418 00:23:09,900 --> 00:23:13,510 but actually there's this beautiful little picture 419 00:23:13,510 --> 00:23:14,523 of a beautiful girl. 420 00:23:16,100 --> 00:23:16,933 Look at that. 421 00:23:16,933 --> 00:23:18,510 Found it in the market today. 422 00:23:18,510 --> 00:23:21,460 She's got a lovely bracelet and a sweet little face. 423 00:23:21,460 --> 00:23:23,890 And it's obviously a men's item, 424 00:23:23,890 --> 00:23:26,280 but isn't that charming and modest? 425 00:23:26,280 --> 00:23:27,500 Not like one of those barrows, 426 00:23:27,500 --> 00:23:28,333 and you twitch it up the other end 427 00:23:28,333 --> 00:23:29,390 and all her clothes come off. 428 00:23:29,390 --> 00:23:31,443 This is just a charming, darling girl. 429 00:23:32,860 --> 00:23:34,923 Oh, she's my new friend, my tent friend. 430 00:23:36,447 --> 00:23:39,447 You see what living in the desert can do to your brain. 431 00:23:39,447 --> 00:23:42,197 (zipper hissing) 432 00:23:50,630 --> 00:23:52,853 Goodnight. (laughing) 433 00:23:59,326 --> 00:24:02,243 (mysterious music) 434 00:24:27,820 --> 00:24:29,540 We're heading south to the ancient 435 00:24:29,540 --> 00:24:31,610 and sacred town of Karima, 436 00:24:31,610 --> 00:24:34,563 once the heart of the great kingdom called Nubia. 437 00:24:37,968 --> 00:24:42,885 (villagers chattering in foreign language) 438 00:24:45,980 --> 00:24:49,150 Today, Karima is a market town, a staging post 439 00:24:49,150 --> 00:24:52,255 for those traveling across the desert to Khartoum. 440 00:24:52,255 --> 00:24:54,169 (villagers chattering in foreign language) 441 00:24:54,169 --> 00:24:56,880 (man laughing) 442 00:24:56,880 --> 00:24:58,650 I found out that most people here 443 00:24:58,650 --> 00:25:02,160 think of themselves as Nubian, identifying with a culture 444 00:25:02,160 --> 00:25:05,373 which stretches back over 5,000 years. 445 00:25:07,228 --> 00:25:08,930 (somber music) 446 00:25:08,930 --> 00:25:11,030 We know little of this great civilization, 447 00:25:14,411 --> 00:25:16,380 but just outside the town, there's evidence 448 00:25:16,380 --> 00:25:19,183 of a chapter of history that is largely untold: 449 00:25:21,610 --> 00:25:24,283 the story of the Black Pharaohs. 450 00:25:42,996 --> 00:25:44,640 For me, one of the most extraordinary things 451 00:25:44,640 --> 00:25:49,430 I've discovered on this trip, is that the great pharaohs 452 00:25:49,430 --> 00:25:51,300 of Egypt didn't all come from Egypt. 453 00:25:51,300 --> 00:25:55,300 In fact, the last burst of fabulous Egyptology 454 00:25:55,300 --> 00:25:59,120 that we know, the ancient Egyptians, were in fact Nubians. 455 00:25:59,120 --> 00:25:59,953 It's unbelievable. 456 00:25:59,953 --> 00:26:03,440 There are more than twice as many pyramids 457 00:26:03,440 --> 00:26:06,560 here in the Sudan as there are in Egypt. 458 00:26:06,560 --> 00:26:10,454 But it was here, this was the seat of power. 459 00:26:10,454 --> 00:26:14,160 (mysterious music) 460 00:26:14,160 --> 00:26:16,520 The Black Pharaohs of Nubia took control 461 00:26:16,520 --> 00:26:19,970 of a huge empire called the Kingdom of Kush 462 00:26:19,970 --> 00:26:23,410 that stretched south from here and all the way north 463 00:26:23,410 --> 00:26:26,033 through ancient Egypt to the Mediterranean. 464 00:26:31,010 --> 00:26:33,080 They moved their capital here 465 00:26:33,080 --> 00:26:35,540 where the Temple of Amun lies in the shadow 466 00:26:35,540 --> 00:26:38,130 of the sacred mountain Jebel Barkal, 467 00:26:38,130 --> 00:26:40,173 also known as the Pure Mountain. 468 00:26:42,005 --> 00:26:42,840 - [Man] A pyramid. 469 00:26:42,840 --> 00:26:44,920 - They believed this mountain was the home 470 00:26:44,920 --> 00:26:49,393 of the greatest of all gods, Amun, the god of kingship. 471 00:26:50,470 --> 00:26:51,990 Woops. 472 00:26:51,990 --> 00:26:53,942 Sandy, sandy. 473 00:26:53,942 --> 00:26:56,570 (soft mysterious music) 474 00:26:56,570 --> 00:26:58,960 Every Friday, the Muslim holy day, 475 00:26:58,960 --> 00:27:01,660 people flock to climb its perilous slopes 476 00:27:01,660 --> 00:27:04,013 to watch the sunset over the Nile. 477 00:27:09,739 --> 00:27:12,750 Abdul Magid Omar has been climbing the Jebel 478 00:27:12,750 --> 00:27:14,690 ever since he could walk. 479 00:27:14,690 --> 00:27:17,103 If anyone knows the best way up, he does. 480 00:27:26,778 --> 00:27:28,693 (Joanna speaking foreign language) 481 00:27:28,693 --> 00:27:29,860 Ah, thank you. 482 00:27:33,727 --> 00:27:35,144 Oh, look at this. 483 00:27:37,637 --> 00:27:38,815 (Abdul speaking in foreign language) 484 00:27:38,815 --> 00:27:39,672 Look at this, 485 00:27:39,672 --> 00:27:41,016 it's the River Nile. - The River Nile. 486 00:27:41,016 --> 00:27:43,544 - [Joanna] (gasps) It's fantastic. 487 00:27:43,544 --> 00:27:44,413 - [Abdul] Really very, very good. 488 00:27:44,413 --> 00:27:46,357 - [Joanna] It's so beautiful. 489 00:27:46,357 --> 00:27:48,098 - Very good. 490 00:27:48,098 --> 00:27:49,366 It's very good, yes. 491 00:27:49,366 --> 00:27:52,258 This is the top of the hill. 492 00:27:52,258 --> 00:27:53,580 - Yes. - Yes. 493 00:27:53,580 --> 00:27:54,538 - Oh. 494 00:27:54,538 --> 00:27:56,959 (speaking in foreign language), holy mountain. 495 00:27:56,959 --> 00:27:57,933 (Abdul speaking in foreign language) 496 00:27:57,933 --> 00:27:59,551 Holy mountain. 497 00:27:59,551 --> 00:28:02,763 (serene music) 498 00:28:02,763 --> 00:28:07,013 (man speaking in foreign language) 499 00:28:16,252 --> 00:28:17,085 Wow. 500 00:28:18,226 --> 00:28:19,520 Wowee, Abdul, look at this. 501 00:28:19,520 --> 00:28:21,216 Isn't it fantastic? 502 00:28:21,216 --> 00:28:24,520 - [Abdul] You found everything. 503 00:28:24,520 --> 00:28:28,180 - Am I right in thinking that when the Nile is full, 504 00:28:28,180 --> 00:28:31,200 it comes right up to the edge of this green? 505 00:28:31,200 --> 00:28:32,170 - Yes, 19. 506 00:28:32,170 --> 00:28:36,348 If the Nile flood, 'til just the feet of Jebel Barkal. 507 00:28:36,348 --> 00:28:37,493 - Yes, here. - Right up to here? 508 00:28:37,493 --> 00:28:39,700 - [Musab] This here, this water. 509 00:28:39,700 --> 00:28:41,520 - [Joanna] So this is all the old temple. 510 00:28:41,520 --> 00:28:43,200 Oh, how wonderful. - Oh yes. 511 00:28:43,200 --> 00:28:46,070 - [Joanna] Well don't go too close, I get terrible vertigo. 512 00:28:58,389 --> 00:28:59,332 - How old will you be? 513 00:28:59,332 --> 00:29:01,878 When you can hardly get up, will you still come up there? 514 00:29:01,878 --> 00:29:06,295 (Musab speaking in foreign language) 515 00:29:22,244 --> 00:29:23,244 Yes. - He will never 516 00:29:23,244 --> 00:29:25,290 stop doing it. - Never stop, very good. 517 00:29:25,290 --> 00:29:26,390 (Abdul speaking in foreign language) 518 00:29:26,390 --> 00:29:27,540 - [Abdul] The sun is... 519 00:29:28,638 --> 00:29:30,251 - [Joanna] Yes, it's just beautiful. 520 00:29:30,251 --> 00:29:31,084 - It's very good now. 521 00:29:31,084 --> 00:29:31,917 - Shams. 522 00:29:31,917 --> 00:29:33,220 - Yes, shams. 523 00:29:33,220 --> 00:29:34,713 - The sun is called shams. 524 00:29:35,790 --> 00:29:36,970 And something which is rather lovely 525 00:29:36,970 --> 00:29:41,100 is that my son, my own son, as opposed to this sun, 526 00:29:41,100 --> 00:29:43,230 when we were trekking in Hansa, 527 00:29:43,230 --> 00:29:45,870 they couldn't say James so they called him Shams. 528 00:29:45,870 --> 00:29:48,495 So my son is called Shams and the sun here 529 00:29:48,495 --> 00:29:50,920 is called shams, and today is my son's birthday. 530 00:29:50,920 --> 00:29:53,520 So the whole thing (chuckles) is completely perfect. 531 00:29:54,440 --> 00:29:56,943 What a day to be on the holy mountain. 532 00:29:56,943 --> 00:29:59,526 (serene music) 533 00:30:12,693 --> 00:30:13,990 (engines rumbling) 534 00:30:13,990 --> 00:30:17,120 The next morning, we're up early as our translator, 535 00:30:17,120 --> 00:30:19,390 our draggerman, Musab, has told me 536 00:30:19,390 --> 00:30:22,620 of an extraordinary and rarely seen burial site 537 00:30:22,620 --> 00:30:24,103 five miles from town. 538 00:30:25,110 --> 00:30:27,480 I think a tourist to Sudan could be forgiven 539 00:30:27,480 --> 00:30:29,680 for missing out on the next great treat. 540 00:30:29,680 --> 00:30:31,410 It's like Sudan's hidden secret. 541 00:30:31,410 --> 00:30:34,350 It's this extraordinarily important couple 542 00:30:34,350 --> 00:30:35,710 of tombs that still remain. 543 00:30:35,710 --> 00:30:37,240 All the rest have disappeared. 544 00:30:37,240 --> 00:30:39,940 They used to be under pyramids, now they're just tombs, 545 00:30:39,940 --> 00:30:43,100 but they've got fabulous things inside, I think. 546 00:30:43,100 --> 00:30:44,350 I can't wait to see them. 547 00:30:45,930 --> 00:30:48,980 (mysterious music) 548 00:30:48,980 --> 00:30:50,440 This is a little local graveyard. 549 00:30:50,440 --> 00:30:53,160 This is how people are buried today, not like the pharaohs. 550 00:30:53,160 --> 00:30:55,210 Just a small stone at your head and foot, 551 00:30:57,060 --> 00:30:58,810 mosque in the background. 552 00:30:58,810 --> 00:31:00,310 It's rather simple and lovely. 553 00:31:06,361 --> 00:31:09,111 This is the cemetery of El-Kurru. 554 00:31:10,320 --> 00:31:12,470 Here the Black Pharaohs were buried 555 00:31:12,470 --> 00:31:15,597 over two and a half thousand years ago. 556 00:31:15,597 --> 00:31:18,800 (man speaking in foreign language) 557 00:31:18,800 --> 00:31:20,460 However, many graves have since 558 00:31:20,460 --> 00:31:22,543 been ransacked by tomb raiders. 559 00:31:23,500 --> 00:31:25,490 How did they dig into the pyramids? 560 00:31:25,490 --> 00:31:29,010 - They start, the people looking for the treasures 561 00:31:29,010 --> 00:31:31,240 on the top of the pyramids. 562 00:31:31,240 --> 00:31:33,760 And then they dig all the pyramid 563 00:31:33,760 --> 00:31:36,832 and they found the top of the tomb. 564 00:31:36,832 --> 00:31:37,665 (Joanna gasps) 565 00:31:37,665 --> 00:31:40,100 Like this here if you can see. 566 00:31:40,100 --> 00:31:40,933 - Yes. 567 00:31:40,933 --> 00:31:41,766 - [Musab] They open it from the top. 568 00:31:41,766 --> 00:31:43,590 - [Joanna] And they found they were in the burial chamber? 569 00:31:43,590 --> 00:31:47,160 - Yes, they discover that there is a door 570 00:31:47,160 --> 00:31:48,770 bringing to outside. - I see. 571 00:31:48,770 --> 00:31:49,852 So then they started to look-- 572 00:31:49,852 --> 00:31:52,658 - Then they start to dig in the correct way. 573 00:31:52,658 --> 00:31:55,900 (mysterious music) (man chattering) 574 00:31:55,900 --> 00:31:58,760 - Despite the vandalism, the most impressive tomb 575 00:31:58,760 --> 00:32:03,160 is that of Queen Qalhata, mother of the last Nubian pharaoh. 576 00:32:03,160 --> 00:32:04,185 Huge staircase. 577 00:32:04,185 --> 00:32:05,018 - Be careful. 578 00:32:05,018 --> 00:32:06,000 - With a great big step. 579 00:32:18,080 --> 00:32:22,547 So this ceiling is very beautiful and blue. 580 00:32:22,547 --> 00:32:24,510 And here, Musab, is this where the body 581 00:32:24,510 --> 00:32:26,370 would have been put down on here? 582 00:32:26,370 --> 00:32:31,060 - [Masub] Yes, here it should be in this point exactly. 583 00:32:31,060 --> 00:32:33,624 - Can we go onto it, can we step on it now? 584 00:32:33,624 --> 00:32:34,854 - Yeah. 585 00:32:34,854 --> 00:32:38,590 - And this is the picture of her body lying as it would be. 586 00:32:38,590 --> 00:32:40,030 - Yes, very-- - Wrapped in her 587 00:32:40,030 --> 00:32:40,863 funeral clothes. 588 00:32:40,863 --> 00:32:42,113 - Yes, and she's dying. 589 00:32:43,660 --> 00:32:46,940 You see here the bed, the shape of the lion. 590 00:32:46,940 --> 00:32:48,518 - [Joanna] Yes. 591 00:32:48,518 --> 00:32:51,023 - And all the tools of the war under 592 00:32:51,023 --> 00:32:55,410 because our queens they were a warrior queen. 593 00:32:55,410 --> 00:32:57,944 - Right, so these are weapons. 594 00:32:57,944 --> 00:33:02,685 - Yes, an arrow. - Daggers, spears, arrows. 595 00:33:02,685 --> 00:33:04,189 The Nubians were good with arrows, 596 00:33:04,189 --> 00:33:05,022 weren't they? - Yes. (chuckles) 597 00:33:05,022 --> 00:33:05,855 - They were great archers, I think. 598 00:33:05,855 --> 00:33:06,710 - Her favorite of these. 599 00:33:06,710 --> 00:33:09,100 - Yes, how fantastic. 600 00:33:09,100 --> 00:33:09,993 Look at that bow. 601 00:33:11,400 --> 00:33:12,793 That's wonderful. 602 00:33:14,040 --> 00:33:16,417 But here on this side (gasps). 603 00:33:17,590 --> 00:33:19,000 Now this wonderful. 604 00:33:19,000 --> 00:33:20,310 I'm going to get down and look at this 605 00:33:20,310 --> 00:33:22,270 because she's turned around. 606 00:33:22,270 --> 00:33:23,980 She seems to have come back to life. 607 00:33:23,980 --> 00:33:26,582 - [Masub] Yes, after smelling the ankh. 608 00:33:26,582 --> 00:33:28,130 - After smelling the ankh. 609 00:33:28,130 --> 00:33:29,490 So that's the key of life there. 610 00:33:29,490 --> 00:33:31,020 - Yes. - With the crisscross 611 00:33:31,020 --> 00:33:32,250 and that loop there. 612 00:33:32,250 --> 00:33:34,210 He's giving it to her to smell. 613 00:33:34,210 --> 00:33:35,053 Here's the god. 614 00:33:36,040 --> 00:33:38,100 And here she's woken and turned around 615 00:33:38,950 --> 00:33:43,839 and she's lying up on her stomach, feeling better already. 616 00:33:43,839 --> 00:33:46,756 (mysterious music) 617 00:33:49,190 --> 00:33:51,513 Only 1,000 people a year come here. 618 00:33:53,794 --> 00:33:54,910 That's not very many, is it? 619 00:33:54,910 --> 00:33:56,490 I hope it stays like this. 620 00:33:56,490 --> 00:33:58,040 I'd hate it to get any grander. 621 00:33:59,430 --> 00:34:01,330 I'd hate it that we couldn't film 622 00:34:01,330 --> 00:34:03,083 or stand up close to the walls. 623 00:34:04,500 --> 00:34:06,500 I'd hate it that we didn't have Ali 624 00:34:06,500 --> 00:34:08,063 with his key to unlock it. 625 00:34:10,500 --> 00:34:12,850 I'd hate it that the steps would get worn down. 626 00:34:16,740 --> 00:34:18,993 But I wouldn't hate it to be a little bit cooler. 627 00:34:28,203 --> 00:34:30,786 (gentle music) 628 00:34:34,890 --> 00:34:39,100 Karima, a town full of echos of the ancient past, 629 00:34:39,100 --> 00:34:42,383 from its holy mountain right down to the banks of the Nile. 630 00:34:47,450 --> 00:34:49,910 These old boats are a stark reminder 631 00:34:49,910 --> 00:34:52,450 of a more recent age when the river was used 632 00:34:52,450 --> 00:34:55,833 to transport goods, animals, and people along its banks. 633 00:34:59,030 --> 00:35:01,320 Now it seems the river looks empty, 634 00:35:01,320 --> 00:35:03,523 unused, almost forgotten. 635 00:35:07,970 --> 00:35:10,210 But for the locals, the Nile hasn't lost 636 00:35:10,210 --> 00:35:11,573 its spiritual power. 637 00:35:13,522 --> 00:35:18,189 (villagers singing in foreign language) 638 00:35:20,378 --> 00:35:23,933 Nowhere is this more apparent than at a Nubian wedding. 639 00:35:25,002 --> 00:35:29,335 (women singing in foreign language) 640 00:35:31,079 --> 00:35:33,817 (man speaking in foreign language) 641 00:35:33,817 --> 00:35:36,930 (Joanna and woman speaking in foreign language) 642 00:35:36,930 --> 00:35:41,930 (women singing in foreign language) 643 00:35:41,966 --> 00:35:44,350 I think we're heading down to the river, the River Nile. 644 00:35:44,350 --> 00:35:46,460 I think some sort of ceremony goes on there. 645 00:35:46,460 --> 00:35:47,910 And I said to them (speaking in foreign language), 646 00:35:47,910 --> 00:35:49,931 which means congratulations. 647 00:35:49,931 --> 00:35:54,264 (women singing in foreign language) 648 00:35:55,620 --> 00:35:58,170 Muslim men are allowed four wives, 649 00:35:58,170 --> 00:36:01,883 but Huwaida is Mohammad's one and only bride. 650 00:36:01,883 --> 00:36:06,883 (woman singing in foreign language) 651 00:36:07,030 --> 00:36:09,430 And this isn't an arranged marriage. 652 00:36:09,430 --> 00:36:11,297 They chose each other. 653 00:36:11,297 --> 00:36:13,890 (villagers chattering in foreign language) 654 00:36:13,890 --> 00:36:16,500 To bring the couple a long and happy marriage, 655 00:36:16,500 --> 00:36:19,410 the guests make an offering of dates and wheat 656 00:36:19,410 --> 00:36:20,987 to the River Nile. 657 00:36:20,987 --> 00:36:23,800 (villagers chattering in foreign language) 658 00:36:23,800 --> 00:36:26,383 (gentle music) 659 00:36:44,178 --> 00:36:48,261 The marriage is blessed with water from the Nile. 660 00:36:52,370 --> 00:36:55,460 This is the final ceremony of their marriage celebrations 661 00:36:55,460 --> 00:36:56,860 that have lasted seven days. 662 00:36:57,920 --> 00:37:00,503 (gentle music) 663 00:37:19,703 --> 00:37:24,036 (women singing in foreign language) 664 00:37:27,255 --> 00:37:29,489 And I think this, snapping your fingers 665 00:37:29,489 --> 00:37:31,100 and sort of doing that, is a kind of blessing 666 00:37:31,100 --> 00:37:32,270 'cause I did that to the bridegroom 667 00:37:32,270 --> 00:37:33,880 and he looked very please. 668 00:37:33,880 --> 00:37:35,471 And all the women were urging me to clap. 669 00:37:35,471 --> 00:37:38,780 They were going, come on clap, get in with it, and I... 670 00:37:38,780 --> 00:37:40,745 So a lot of that was going on. 671 00:37:40,745 --> 00:37:43,745 (suspenseful music) 672 00:37:46,010 --> 00:37:48,760 Saying goodbye to Karima, we're taking a shortcut 673 00:37:48,760 --> 00:37:50,173 across the Bayuda Desert. 674 00:37:52,120 --> 00:37:54,630 Then we'll rejoin the river, which will take us 675 00:37:54,630 --> 00:37:57,310 into the capital of Sudan, Khartoum, 676 00:37:57,310 --> 00:38:00,649 halfway point of my journey along the Nile. 677 00:38:00,649 --> 00:38:03,649 (suspenseful music) 678 00:38:14,960 --> 00:38:17,520 I've always been fascinated by this tough race 679 00:38:17,520 --> 00:38:20,230 of people, the pastoralists, who live 680 00:38:20,230 --> 00:38:22,723 a nomadic existence in these harsh deserts. 681 00:38:24,550 --> 00:38:27,570 Around 10% of Sudan's 40 million people 682 00:38:27,570 --> 00:38:31,193 follow a way of life that hasn't changed for centuries. 683 00:38:33,100 --> 00:38:35,710 The Hasania tribe moved here from Egypt 684 00:38:35,710 --> 00:38:37,425 a thousand years ago. 685 00:38:37,425 --> 00:38:40,342 (mysterious music) 686 00:38:47,334 --> 00:38:52,334 (Joanna and villagers speaking in foreign language) 687 00:38:53,520 --> 00:38:55,730 Four generations of the Hasan family 688 00:38:55,730 --> 00:38:57,290 have come to say hello. 689 00:38:57,290 --> 00:38:58,948 Thank you. 690 00:38:58,948 --> 00:39:03,140 (group speaking in foreign language) 691 00:39:03,140 --> 00:39:04,370 Thank you, (speaking in foreign language). 692 00:39:07,300 --> 00:39:08,133 How lovely. 693 00:39:08,133 --> 00:39:09,100 This is a beautiful bowl of yogurt 694 00:39:09,100 --> 00:39:10,609 I've just been offered, which is delicious. 695 00:39:10,609 --> 00:39:12,900 - (chuckles) Oh yes. - So very delicious. 696 00:39:12,900 --> 00:39:14,058 It's lovely. 697 00:39:14,058 --> 00:39:15,367 Hello, (speaking in foreign language), little one. 698 00:39:15,367 --> 00:39:16,560 (children speaking in foreign language) 699 00:39:16,560 --> 00:39:18,841 Hello, baby, hello (speaking in foreign language). 700 00:39:18,841 --> 00:39:21,024 Hello, little one, (speaking in foreign language). 701 00:39:21,024 --> 00:39:24,214 - Them is able. (speaking in foreign language) 702 00:39:24,214 --> 00:39:25,670 She's asking about your name. 703 00:39:25,670 --> 00:39:27,207 - My name is Joanna. 704 00:39:27,207 --> 00:39:28,190 (women speaking in foreign language) 705 00:39:28,190 --> 00:39:29,224 - Joanna. - Joanna. 706 00:39:29,224 --> 00:39:31,104 (women laugh) 707 00:39:31,104 --> 00:39:34,075 (woman speaking in foreign language) 708 00:39:34,075 --> 00:39:34,908 (goats bleating) 709 00:39:34,908 --> 00:39:36,310 - [Joanna] This place is so remote 710 00:39:36,310 --> 00:39:37,540 that some of the older people 711 00:39:37,540 --> 00:39:38,980 may not have seen an English person 712 00:39:38,980 --> 00:39:41,660 since the British occupation of Sudan, 713 00:39:41,660 --> 00:39:43,553 which ended 50 years ago. 714 00:39:44,630 --> 00:39:46,080 Oh this is wonderful in here. 715 00:39:47,500 --> 00:39:48,594 This is so lovely. 716 00:39:48,594 --> 00:39:49,644 May I sit here? 717 00:39:49,644 --> 00:39:53,830 May I sit here? 718 00:39:55,630 --> 00:39:57,230 - When she was as young as this. 719 00:40:00,350 --> 00:40:02,467 - [Musab] When they saw the English, they were-- 720 00:40:05,164 --> 00:40:07,831 (Joanna laughs) 721 00:40:22,840 --> 00:40:27,840 - And this is yogurt being made in a goat skin like that. 722 00:40:28,300 --> 00:40:30,500 I'm not sure if I'm meant to bump that stem. 723 00:40:32,677 --> 00:40:34,833 - (laughs) You passed the job over to me. 724 00:40:40,010 --> 00:40:42,240 - Eventually Great Grandmother Medina 725 00:40:42,240 --> 00:40:45,100 became too old to travel, so the family decided 726 00:40:45,100 --> 00:40:48,988 to settle here where they've been for 22 years. 727 00:40:48,988 --> 00:40:51,640 (bright music) 728 00:40:51,640 --> 00:40:53,880 However, as head of a family of 10, 729 00:40:53,880 --> 00:40:56,700 Mohammad continues a semi-nomadic life, 730 00:40:56,700 --> 00:41:00,130 breeding livestock and transporting salt by camel, 731 00:41:00,130 --> 00:41:03,063 nearly 200 miles across the desert to Khartoum. 732 00:41:07,970 --> 00:41:11,770 Tell me why you prefer to live in the open spaces 733 00:41:11,770 --> 00:41:15,210 in the fresh air rather than in a city 734 00:41:15,210 --> 00:41:17,733 with buildings and roads. 735 00:41:53,179 --> 00:41:55,346 - I love this way of life. 736 00:41:59,030 --> 00:42:01,613 (gentle music) 737 00:42:05,918 --> 00:42:08,080 - It's just fantastic. 738 00:42:08,080 --> 00:42:09,720 And I understand them absolutely longing 739 00:42:09,720 --> 00:42:11,700 to be in the open air 740 00:42:11,700 --> 00:42:14,510 and have eye stretching views like this, 741 00:42:14,510 --> 00:42:15,860 with the wind blowing through rather than 742 00:42:15,860 --> 00:42:18,840 in a hot town with fumes of petrol 743 00:42:19,800 --> 00:42:21,543 and busy people all the time. 744 00:42:25,000 --> 00:42:26,610 And it's a hard life. 745 00:42:26,610 --> 00:42:29,983 It's a hard life, but you're free, you're free. 746 00:42:31,202 --> 00:42:35,180 (Mohammad speaking in foreign language) 747 00:42:35,180 --> 00:42:38,233 Though this freedom comes at a price. 748 00:42:39,180 --> 00:42:41,960 To get water, Mohammad must travel 10 miles 749 00:42:41,960 --> 00:42:45,500 to the nearest well, and most people in Sudan 750 00:42:45,500 --> 00:42:47,583 have less than a pound a day to live on. 751 00:42:49,394 --> 00:42:52,144 (goats bleating) 752 00:42:54,100 --> 00:42:56,620 Think you could live like this in a kind of romantic dream, 753 00:42:56,620 --> 00:42:59,900 but I suppose in the end you go back 754 00:42:59,900 --> 00:43:04,900 to your curtains closed and your keys clinking and... 755 00:43:07,340 --> 00:43:09,840 I'm not sure we've got it right, though, you know? 756 00:43:12,104 --> 00:43:14,990 I mean, we might not want to live as simply as this, 757 00:43:14,990 --> 00:43:19,990 but I'm not sure we've got it right in the Western world. 758 00:43:24,100 --> 00:43:26,463 No, it's a twig for me, a twig house for me. 759 00:43:28,370 --> 00:43:29,203 Right. 760 00:43:30,530 --> 00:43:33,833 Twig house, let's try that in London, see if I moved on. 761 00:43:36,126 --> 00:43:41,126 (goats bleating) (suspenseful music) 762 00:43:49,180 --> 00:43:52,910 We push on, towards the Nile, and then Khartoum, 763 00:43:52,910 --> 00:43:55,303 which lies a two-day drive ahead of us. 764 00:44:00,270 --> 00:44:03,463 Unfortunately, the desert has other ideas. 765 00:44:05,302 --> 00:44:06,385 Oh, Mohammad. 766 00:44:09,580 --> 00:44:12,310 We're stuck, miles from anywhere. 767 00:44:12,310 --> 00:44:14,465 But thankfully, we're not alone. 768 00:44:14,465 --> 00:44:15,298 (man speaking in foreign language) 769 00:44:15,298 --> 00:44:17,040 Charming people just materialize out of nowhere. 770 00:44:17,040 --> 00:44:20,350 It seems to be empty and it's actually quite full of people. 771 00:44:20,350 --> 00:44:23,350 (suspenseful music) 772 00:44:25,380 --> 00:44:26,850 Do you think we should bounce it? 773 00:44:26,850 --> 00:44:28,460 Do you think if you bounce it, 774 00:44:28,460 --> 00:44:31,058 does that sometimes help you get out of it? 775 00:44:31,058 --> 00:44:35,475 (men chattering in foreign language) 776 00:44:44,256 --> 00:44:47,173 (triumphant music) 777 00:44:48,858 --> 00:44:53,858 Good. (speaking in foreign language) 778 00:44:55,230 --> 00:44:56,543 We're driving southeast, 779 00:44:59,187 --> 00:45:01,860 southeast across the desert to Khartoum. 780 00:45:01,860 --> 00:45:02,840 We'll have to stop for the night 781 00:45:02,840 --> 00:45:05,712 before we get there 'cause it's a long drive. 782 00:45:05,712 --> 00:45:07,400 It's rather exciting, isn't it? 783 00:45:07,400 --> 00:45:09,501 Oh look, the cars, well bye. 784 00:45:09,501 --> 00:45:12,084 (jaunty music) 785 00:45:15,040 --> 00:45:17,420 So, on to Khartoum, where my journey 786 00:45:17,420 --> 00:45:18,663 takes a new direction. 787 00:45:19,510 --> 00:45:22,620 There, our great river is joined by the Blue Nile 788 00:45:22,620 --> 00:45:25,120 and I'll follow it into the highlands of Ethiopia. 789 00:45:26,467 --> 00:45:29,467 (mysterious music) 58443

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