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1
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(serene orchestral music)
2
00:00:03,760 --> 00:00:06,170
- I'm traveling along the
world's longest river,
3
00:00:06,170 --> 00:00:09,333
the Nile, 4,000 miles from sea to source.
4
00:00:11,840 --> 00:00:14,433
It's the most remarkable
journey I've ever made.
5
00:00:16,795 --> 00:00:19,508
(twinkling suspenseful music)
6
00:00:19,508 --> 00:00:20,341
Look how wide it is.
7
00:00:20,341 --> 00:00:21,743
It's a huge river.
8
00:00:22,640 --> 00:00:25,043
My adventure started
two weeks ago in Egypt.
9
00:00:27,799 --> 00:00:28,632
Hello, darling.
10
00:00:28,632 --> 00:00:31,300
Hello, sweetheart. (tongue clicking)
11
00:00:31,300 --> 00:00:33,890
I followed in the footsteps
of Agatha Christie.
12
00:00:33,890 --> 00:00:35,450
We think that's the winner.
13
00:00:35,450 --> 00:00:37,180
(crowd cheers)
14
00:00:37,180 --> 00:00:39,920
Marveled at the beauty
of this mighty river.
15
00:00:39,920 --> 00:00:41,520
It's pretty unspoiled, isn't it?
16
00:00:42,360 --> 00:00:45,672
And heard tales of spirits
hiding in the depths.
17
00:00:45,672 --> 00:00:47,370
(man speaking in foreign language)
18
00:00:47,370 --> 00:00:49,451
I'll come and sort that demon out for you.
19
00:00:49,451 --> 00:00:51,974
(man laughs)
20
00:00:51,974 --> 00:00:55,383
But I'm less than a quarter
of the way through my journey.
21
00:00:55,383 --> 00:00:56,216
(children laughing)
22
00:00:56,216 --> 00:00:58,233
I still have four more countries to go,
23
00:01:01,264 --> 00:01:04,378
all in my quest to reach
the source of the Nile.
24
00:01:04,378 --> 00:01:05,285
- [Guide] Here we are.
25
00:01:05,285 --> 00:01:06,741
- Oh my gosh!
26
00:01:06,741 --> 00:01:10,408
(dramatic orchestral music)
27
00:01:35,055 --> 00:01:38,472
(soft suspenseful music)
28
00:01:46,040 --> 00:01:47,810
It's late afternoon.
29
00:01:47,810 --> 00:01:50,210
I've just boarded the weekly
ferry that's taking me
30
00:01:50,210 --> 00:01:53,563
from Egypt into Sudan across Lake Nasser.
31
00:01:57,293 --> 00:01:58,983
When I was a child, we used
to travel across the world
32
00:01:58,983 --> 00:02:01,000
like this on ships all the time.
33
00:02:01,000 --> 00:02:02,691
The army traveled by ship.
34
00:02:02,691 --> 00:02:04,130
We didn't fly in those days.
35
00:02:04,130 --> 00:02:06,870
We used to lean on the rails
like this and just look
36
00:02:06,870 --> 00:02:09,487
and look at the waves
turning white like this.
37
00:02:09,487 --> 00:02:11,930
And the sea I can
remember being dark blue.
38
00:02:11,930 --> 00:02:13,730
I remember my mother putting out her hand
39
00:02:13,730 --> 00:02:16,170
and she had a sapphire engagement ring
40
00:02:16,170 --> 00:02:19,110
and she said, "The sea is
the color of sapphires."
41
00:02:19,110 --> 00:02:21,560
And I then knew what the
color of sapphires were.
42
00:02:23,850 --> 00:02:26,500
Lake Nasser was created when a huge dam
43
00:02:26,500 --> 00:02:29,400
was built across the River Nile at Aswan.
44
00:02:29,400 --> 00:02:31,660
At just over 300 miles long,
45
00:02:31,660 --> 00:02:33,973
it's the world's largest man-made lake.
46
00:02:35,400 --> 00:02:38,173
It's colossal to think
one river has made this.
47
00:02:43,283 --> 00:02:44,230
(jaunty music)
48
00:02:44,230 --> 00:02:48,850
My journey along the Nile began
two weeks ago in Alexandria.
49
00:02:48,850 --> 00:02:51,960
I've already traveled 700 miles to Aswan
50
00:02:51,960 --> 00:02:54,710
where I joined the ferry to
take me across Lake Nasser.
51
00:02:57,280 --> 00:03:00,370
Once in Sudan, I'll be
following the river to Khartoum,
52
00:03:00,370 --> 00:03:04,083
Sudan's capital, where the Nile
is joined by the Blue Nile.
53
00:03:05,160 --> 00:03:07,100
Here, I'll take a new direction,
54
00:03:07,100 --> 00:03:09,893
following the river into
the highlands of Ethiopia.
55
00:03:11,290 --> 00:03:14,820
I'll then rejoin the Nile
in war-torn Southern Sudan,
56
00:03:14,820 --> 00:03:18,750
continuing south through
Uganda, across Lake Victoria,
57
00:03:18,750 --> 00:03:21,650
and pushing on into
Rwanda where my journey
58
00:03:21,650 --> 00:03:24,383
on the world's longest
river will come to an end.
59
00:03:28,240 --> 00:03:31,157
(mysterious music)
60
00:03:45,490 --> 00:03:47,520
It's going to take me 18 hours to get
61
00:03:47,520 --> 00:03:50,863
to the Sudanese border, so
plenty of time for dinner.
62
00:03:51,860 --> 00:03:53,454
- I see you in the films.
63
00:03:53,454 --> 00:03:54,287
- Oh.
- Before.
64
00:03:54,287 --> 00:03:55,120
- Did you?
65
00:03:55,120 --> 00:03:55,953
- Yeah.
- Oh.
66
00:03:57,995 --> 00:03:59,298
- Maybe--
- Maybe on television
67
00:03:59,298 --> 00:04:00,144
or something like that.
68
00:04:00,144 --> 00:04:01,110
- Television.
- Maybe television.
69
00:04:01,110 --> 00:04:02,680
- Yeah, James Bond.
70
00:04:02,680 --> 00:04:03,550
- Egyptian?
71
00:04:03,550 --> 00:04:05,160
- James Bond, Bond.
72
00:04:05,160 --> 00:04:05,993
- James Bond!
73
00:04:05,993 --> 00:04:06,826
- Yeah.
- Yeah.
74
00:04:06,826 --> 00:04:07,659
- You.
75
00:04:07,659 --> 00:04:08,656
- On Her Majesty's Secret Service.
76
00:04:08,656 --> 00:04:09,606
- I remember it.
77
00:04:09,606 --> 00:04:12,593
(Joanna and man laugh)
78
00:04:12,593 --> 00:04:13,784
- [Joanna] That's wonderful.
79
00:04:13,784 --> 00:04:15,380
- Okay.
- That's wonderful.
80
00:04:15,380 --> 00:04:16,260
I'm a Bond girl.
81
00:04:17,610 --> 00:04:19,420
Gosh, I didn't think I'd be recognized
82
00:04:19,420 --> 00:04:21,458
as a Bond girl on a ferry.
83
00:04:21,458 --> 00:04:26,458
(passengers chattering
in foreign language)
84
00:04:27,140 --> 00:04:30,450
Here below deck in a
sweltering 40 degree heat,
85
00:04:30,450 --> 00:04:32,670
Sudanese workers are traveling home
86
00:04:32,670 --> 00:04:37,277
after working overseas from as
far away as China and Dubai.
87
00:04:37,277 --> 00:04:40,480
(passengers speaking in foreign language)
88
00:04:40,480 --> 00:04:42,820
I don't know how to say not meat.
89
00:04:42,820 --> 00:04:45,034
I've got some eggs, that's lovely.
90
00:04:45,034 --> 00:04:46,100
Thank you, (speaking in foreign language),
91
00:04:46,100 --> 00:04:47,073
thank you so much.
92
00:04:48,237 --> 00:04:51,850
(man speaking in foreign language)
93
00:04:51,850 --> 00:04:52,962
You speak English?
94
00:04:52,962 --> 00:04:54,000
- Yeah.
- Oh, excellent.
95
00:04:54,000 --> 00:04:55,710
- My name is Magdi Osman.
96
00:04:55,710 --> 00:04:57,210
- [Joanna] Magdi, may I call you Magdi?
97
00:04:57,210 --> 00:04:58,150
- Yes, please.
98
00:04:58,150 --> 00:04:58,983
- Wonderful.
99
00:04:58,983 --> 00:04:59,910
This is delicious food.
100
00:04:59,910 --> 00:05:01,020
- Yeah, it's nice.
101
00:05:01,020 --> 00:05:02,850
This is local food.
102
00:05:02,850 --> 00:05:05,089
We call it in Arabic,
(speaking in foreign language).
103
00:05:05,089 --> 00:05:05,922
(Joanna speaking in foreign language)
104
00:05:05,922 --> 00:05:08,939
The English name, the
correct name is for it,
105
00:05:08,939 --> 00:05:09,772
I don't want to say.
106
00:05:09,772 --> 00:05:11,120
It's beans, just beans.
107
00:05:11,120 --> 00:05:12,487
Let's say beans.
108
00:05:12,487 --> 00:05:14,180
And I feel good when I eat it.
109
00:05:14,180 --> 00:05:15,310
I don't like meat too much.
110
00:05:15,310 --> 00:05:16,693
- Oh.
- Yeah.
111
00:05:17,948 --> 00:05:21,290
- And you look, if I may say
so, a very marvelous man.
112
00:05:21,290 --> 00:05:22,600
You look very healthy.
113
00:05:22,600 --> 00:05:25,735
- Thank you very much. (laughs)
114
00:05:25,735 --> 00:05:28,318
(jaunty music)
115
00:05:30,590 --> 00:05:32,590
- This boat may not be state of the art,
116
00:05:32,590 --> 00:05:35,314
but it seems to have all
the creature comforts.
117
00:05:35,314 --> 00:05:36,147
(man speaking in foreign language)
118
00:05:36,147 --> 00:05:36,980
That smells wonderful.
119
00:05:38,186 --> 00:05:40,436
That is until it's time
to get ready for bed.
120
00:05:48,230 --> 00:05:50,450
It's not that one's squeamish,
but there's something
121
00:05:52,850 --> 00:05:54,983
sometimes a bit horrifying about some
122
00:05:54,983 --> 00:05:56,543
of the sort of lavatory arrangements.
123
00:06:00,901 --> 00:06:02,877
So you can't sort of smell
what it's like in here,
124
00:06:02,877 --> 00:06:04,087
but it's not brilliant.
125
00:06:04,087 --> 00:06:05,830
And actually, if I had my way,
126
00:06:05,830 --> 00:06:08,550
I would be in here with
gloves and scrubbing.
127
00:06:08,550 --> 00:06:10,760
I'd give this a really good scrub.
128
00:06:10,760 --> 00:06:11,593
Actually, it's all right.
129
00:06:11,593 --> 00:06:14,870
Once you've just got over it, you know.
130
00:06:14,870 --> 00:06:16,200
Quite a lot of life is like that.
131
00:06:16,200 --> 00:06:18,080
Just get over it and just do it.
132
00:06:18,080 --> 00:06:19,130
There we are, lovely.
133
00:06:22,235 --> 00:06:24,883
(groans) No, fine.
134
00:06:26,520 --> 00:06:29,103
(somber music)
135
00:06:41,243 --> 00:06:42,170
(Joanna speaking in foreign language)
136
00:06:42,170 --> 00:06:46,190
It's so hot downstairs that
I want to sleep on deck.
137
00:06:46,190 --> 00:06:48,903
Unfortunately, so does everybody else.
138
00:06:49,890 --> 00:06:50,883
Thank you so much.
139
00:06:52,015 --> 00:06:53,330
(speaking in foreign language) Thank you.
140
00:06:53,330 --> 00:06:56,210
But with over 500
passengers, it looks like
141
00:06:56,210 --> 00:06:57,960
I should've bagged a place earlier.
142
00:07:01,640 --> 00:07:04,596
Maybe this is a little nice
corner by these bottles.
143
00:07:04,596 --> 00:07:05,991
- [Passenger] Yeah, this
place is the best one.
144
00:07:05,991 --> 00:07:07,156
- Is this a good--
- You are sleeping here, yeah?
145
00:07:07,156 --> 00:07:07,989
- Yeah, I certainly--
- That is the best place.
146
00:07:07,989 --> 00:07:09,173
- Is that a good place?
147
00:07:09,173 --> 00:07:10,006
- [Passenger] Yeah, yeah, yeah.
148
00:07:10,006 --> 00:07:10,970
- That's wonderful, thank you.
149
00:07:10,970 --> 00:07:13,000
I've seen a couple of
little friendly cockroaches,
150
00:07:13,000 --> 00:07:15,270
but I think they'll be
fine 'cause, you know,
151
00:07:15,270 --> 00:07:17,340
what's a cockroach between friends?
152
00:07:17,340 --> 00:07:19,180
It feels rather odd lying
down with everyone else
153
00:07:19,180 --> 00:07:20,770
standing up, but there we are.
154
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This is me, and it's so warm
155
00:07:22,920 --> 00:07:24,570
I wouldn't need anything over me.
156
00:07:25,720 --> 00:07:26,973
This is comfortable.
157
00:07:27,890 --> 00:07:31,080
The word comfortable didn't
sort of spring immediately
158
00:07:31,080 --> 00:07:32,800
to the lips, but I
thought I'd just say it.
159
00:07:32,800 --> 00:07:34,240
I am comfortable.
160
00:07:34,240 --> 00:07:36,160
And the great thing is that I can hear
161
00:07:38,280 --> 00:07:39,833
the throb of the ship's engine,
162
00:07:42,800 --> 00:07:46,163
and I know that just there
is the Nile swishing past.
163
00:07:47,071 --> 00:07:50,404
(soft mysterious music)
164
00:08:08,000 --> 00:08:11,243
As dawn breaks, we're just
three hours away from Sudan.
165
00:08:14,890 --> 00:08:17,700
But before we get there,
Egypt has one last treat
166
00:08:17,700 --> 00:08:20,790
for us as its most
spectacular ancient monument
167
00:08:20,790 --> 00:08:22,380
comes into sight:
168
00:08:22,380 --> 00:08:25,620
(twinkling mysterious music)
169
00:08:25,620 --> 00:08:28,063
the Great Temple at Abu Simbel.
170
00:08:32,670 --> 00:08:36,310
Abu Simbel is over 3,000 years old.
171
00:08:36,310 --> 00:08:39,010
Its centerpiece, carved from solid rock,
172
00:08:39,010 --> 00:08:42,030
is four colossal seated statues
173
00:08:42,030 --> 00:08:45,313
of one of Egypt's greatest
rulers, Pharaoh Ramses II.
174
00:08:49,526 --> 00:08:51,203
I've seen Abu Simbel before.
175
00:08:52,372 --> 00:08:53,393
Phenomenal.
176
00:08:57,260 --> 00:08:58,360
(twinkling mysterious music)
177
00:08:58,360 --> 00:09:02,630
In the 1960s, this immense
temple was nearly lost forever
178
00:09:02,630 --> 00:09:05,723
when this whole area was
flooded to make Lake Nasser.
179
00:09:07,380 --> 00:09:10,403
But thankfully, over 50
countries came to the rescue.
180
00:09:12,791 --> 00:09:13,624
(upbeat drum music)
181
00:09:13,624 --> 00:09:17,063
At huge cost, it was cut
into over a thousand pieces,
182
00:09:22,296 --> 00:09:26,796
and then rebuilt 200 feet
above its original position,
183
00:09:28,250 --> 00:09:29,703
a miracle of engineering,
184
00:09:33,420 --> 00:09:35,893
preserving Abu Simbel forever.
185
00:09:41,520 --> 00:09:43,880
Finally, we arrive at our destination,
186
00:09:43,880 --> 00:09:45,863
the small port of Wadi Halfa.
187
00:09:47,360 --> 00:09:49,880
It's difficult to believe
that this tiny strip
188
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of concrete is the gateway to Sudan,
189
00:09:52,490 --> 00:09:55,105
a country the size of Western Europe.
190
00:09:55,105 --> 00:09:56,385
(men speaking in foreign language)
191
00:09:56,385 --> 00:09:58,628
(jaunty music)
192
00:09:58,628 --> 00:10:01,210
(crowd chattering in foreign language)
193
00:10:01,210 --> 00:10:03,742
It's quite franticly hot on this quayside.
194
00:10:03,742 --> 00:10:07,410
(crowd chattering in foreign language)
195
00:10:07,410 --> 00:10:08,550
I've just seen our kit.
196
00:10:08,550 --> 00:10:09,700
It's beginning to go around there,
197
00:10:09,700 --> 00:10:10,820
so perhaps they're gonna make a sort
198
00:10:10,820 --> 00:10:12,302
of pile of it over there.
199
00:10:12,302 --> 00:10:15,500
(men chattering in foreign language)
200
00:10:15,500 --> 00:10:17,400
When we think of Sudan, we usually think
201
00:10:17,400 --> 00:10:20,317
of a country torn apart by civil war.
202
00:10:20,317 --> 00:10:21,890
(woman speaking in foreign language)
203
00:10:21,890 --> 00:10:24,200
Though the tribes of Darfur
in the west of the country
204
00:10:24,200 --> 00:10:27,873
are still fighting, the
north is relatively peaceful.
205
00:10:30,160 --> 00:10:32,766
Which means business as usual for most.
206
00:10:32,766 --> 00:10:37,349
(crowd chattering in foreign language)
207
00:10:44,310 --> 00:10:46,439
We've just gotta clear
all this through customs.
208
00:10:46,439 --> 00:10:47,660
- [Man] Okay.
209
00:10:47,660 --> 00:10:49,130
- Which is just about to happen,
210
00:10:49,130 --> 00:10:54,130
and then we can get properly
into the deserts of Sudan.
211
00:10:54,302 --> 00:10:57,719
(soft suspenseful music)
212
00:11:02,520 --> 00:11:05,680
Gone are the luxuries of Egypt, hotels,
213
00:11:05,680 --> 00:11:08,313
hot running water, and comfortable beds.
214
00:11:09,960 --> 00:11:11,780
For the next four days,
we shall be camping
215
00:11:11,780 --> 00:11:15,173
under the stars, so we have
to carry everything with us.
216
00:11:19,740 --> 00:11:23,400
It must be one of the most
remote places on Earth.
217
00:11:23,400 --> 00:11:25,793
It's very exciting.
218
00:11:26,933 --> 00:11:30,683
(twinkling mysterious music)
219
00:11:35,750 --> 00:11:38,430
Leaving Wadi Halfa and
the ferry behind us,
220
00:11:38,430 --> 00:11:42,120
we head 125 miles south to Wawa,
221
00:11:42,120 --> 00:11:44,019
where we're hoping to meet of the Nile's
222
00:11:44,019 --> 00:11:45,927
most feared creatures.
223
00:11:45,927 --> 00:11:49,260
(soft mysterious music)
224
00:11:51,854 --> 00:11:52,940
We're making our way down to the river
225
00:11:52,940 --> 00:11:56,910
to look for crocodiles,
and the Arabic word
226
00:11:56,910 --> 00:11:58,927
for crocodile is (speaking
in foreign language).
227
00:12:00,607 --> 00:12:02,060
So, we're hoping to see
(speaking in foreign language)
228
00:12:02,060 --> 00:12:05,760
a huge (speaking in foreign
language), yes? (chuckles)
229
00:12:05,760 --> 00:12:07,633
Mohammad laughing knowingly.
230
00:12:08,850 --> 00:12:12,370
But they do grow to the most immense size.
231
00:12:12,370 --> 00:12:13,750
I think I'm right in saying also
232
00:12:13,750 --> 00:12:16,130
that the Nile crocodile
is the most aggressive
233
00:12:16,130 --> 00:12:18,200
of all the big, big crocodiles.
234
00:12:19,396 --> 00:12:21,590
(man speaking in foreign language)
235
00:12:21,590 --> 00:12:24,530
For many of us, the closest
we've come to a crocodile
236
00:12:24,530 --> 00:12:26,680
is on the silver screen.
237
00:12:26,680 --> 00:12:27,670
(woman screams)
238
00:12:27,670 --> 00:12:30,080
(suspenseful music)
239
00:12:30,080 --> 00:12:33,764
Tarzan movies, the very
stuff of Hollywood adventure.
240
00:12:33,764 --> 00:12:36,764
(suspenseful music)
241
00:12:38,450 --> 00:12:41,200
What I didn't know was that to save Jane,
242
00:12:41,200 --> 00:12:44,290
Tarzan was wrestling the Nile crocodile,
243
00:12:44,290 --> 00:12:47,183
the most dangerous freshwater
predator in the world.
244
00:12:48,670 --> 00:12:51,240
It can grow to three
times the length of a man
245
00:12:51,240 --> 00:12:53,167
and weigh as much as a small car.
246
00:12:56,698 --> 00:12:59,365
(ominous music)
247
00:13:02,442 --> 00:13:04,170
This is a bit Mad Dogs and Englishmen,
248
00:13:04,170 --> 00:13:05,680
but the truth is this is the best time
249
00:13:05,680 --> 00:13:07,290
to see crocodiles because this is the time
250
00:13:07,290 --> 00:13:09,610
they come out to bask when
the sun is at its hottest.
251
00:13:09,610 --> 00:13:10,450
So we have to be here.
252
00:13:10,450 --> 00:13:13,483
I mean, it is fry egg hot plate.
253
00:13:16,540 --> 00:13:17,373
The river's lovely and cool.
254
00:13:17,373 --> 00:13:21,270
It just begs for you to
jump in, but crocodiles.
255
00:13:21,270 --> 00:13:22,103
I think not.
256
00:13:23,438 --> 00:13:24,940
(Abdu speaking in foreign language)
257
00:13:24,940 --> 00:13:27,520
Local crocodile hunter, Abdu Mohammad,
258
00:13:27,520 --> 00:13:29,431
is helping me find this great reptile.
259
00:13:29,431 --> 00:13:32,848
(soft suspenseful music)
260
00:13:45,746 --> 00:13:47,429
I've just been staring at the same bit
261
00:13:47,429 --> 00:13:49,747
of sand now for a long time.
262
00:13:49,747 --> 00:13:52,747
(suspenseful music)
263
00:14:01,520 --> 00:14:02,630
- We're crossing over the river now
264
00:14:02,630 --> 00:14:05,610
because Abdu thinks he
might have seen one.
265
00:14:05,610 --> 00:14:06,910
Of course I'm straining my eyes.
266
00:14:06,910 --> 00:14:10,290
Everything I see looks as
it might be a crocodile.
267
00:14:10,290 --> 00:14:12,240
I'm sure I can see crocodile footsteps.
268
00:14:19,900 --> 00:14:23,178
- Abdu, does Abdu want me to go with him?
269
00:14:23,178 --> 00:14:24,011
- Abdu.
(speaking in foreign language)
270
00:14:24,011 --> 00:14:24,965
- [Man] Do you want her to go?
271
00:14:24,965 --> 00:14:25,882
- Do you want me to come with you?
272
00:14:25,882 --> 00:14:26,826
- Yes.
(speaking in foreign language)
273
00:14:26,826 --> 00:14:27,761
- Yes?
- Yeah, he's happy,
274
00:14:27,761 --> 00:14:29,350
he's happy to go with you.
275
00:14:29,350 --> 00:14:31,250
- Why was I longing for him to say no?
276
00:14:32,877 --> 00:14:34,343
(sighs) Okay.
277
00:14:38,420 --> 00:14:40,020
I'll leave my sandals
on so the crocodile's
278
00:14:40,020 --> 00:14:41,070
got something to eat.
279
00:14:42,990 --> 00:14:45,990
(suspenseful music)
280
00:14:50,700 --> 00:14:51,533
Oops.
281
00:15:04,020 --> 00:15:06,720
Unfortunately, we've been outsmarted.
282
00:15:06,720 --> 00:15:08,433
The crocodiles have gone.
283
00:15:10,150 --> 00:15:12,050
But we've only missed them by minutes.
284
00:15:14,360 --> 00:15:15,740
- [Abdu] Yes, about here.
285
00:15:15,740 --> 00:15:16,696
- [Joanna] Yeah?
286
00:15:16,696 --> 00:15:17,728
- And here. (speaking in foreign language)
287
00:15:17,728 --> 00:15:18,561
- And there.
288
00:15:18,561 --> 00:15:19,820
About there from there, there it is.
289
00:15:19,820 --> 00:15:20,820
- Four kilometers.
290
00:15:20,820 --> 00:15:23,347
- Four meters?
- Four meters.
291
00:15:23,347 --> 00:15:25,680
- Four meters.
- Four meters.
292
00:15:26,577 --> 00:15:27,850
- That's huge.
293
00:15:27,850 --> 00:15:28,683
- [Abdu] Yes.
294
00:15:29,730 --> 00:15:33,840
- Can you tell by the footmarks,
man or woman crocodile?
295
00:15:33,840 --> 00:15:35,293
Male or female?
296
00:16:03,936 --> 00:16:04,769
(Joanna mimics bones cracking)
297
00:16:04,769 --> 00:16:05,942
- Yeah.
- Yes.
298
00:16:05,942 --> 00:16:08,710
(Joanna laughs)
299
00:16:08,710 --> 00:16:10,543
- Not us, Abdu, not us.
300
00:16:12,060 --> 00:16:13,363
I wish we could see one.
301
00:16:14,432 --> 00:16:16,157
(ominous music)
302
00:16:16,157 --> 00:16:16,990
Oh!
303
00:16:18,710 --> 00:16:22,070
Sadly, crocodiles are
big business in Africa.
304
00:16:22,070 --> 00:16:24,280
Every year sales of their valuable skins
305
00:16:24,280 --> 00:16:27,123
fetch over 150 million pounds.
306
00:16:30,340 --> 00:16:32,860
Though the crocodile
provides a living for some,
307
00:16:32,860 --> 00:16:35,440
it's feared by most,
and not without reason
308
00:16:35,440 --> 00:16:38,763
as they kill as many as
500 people every year.
309
00:16:41,180 --> 00:16:44,830
And these two holes here
are the ones which these,
310
00:16:44,830 --> 00:16:46,840
those are baby teeth but at the bottom,
311
00:16:46,840 --> 00:16:51,840
these immense front incisors
fit into the slots up there.
312
00:16:52,290 --> 00:16:54,620
So you have this interlocking,
which means that if
313
00:16:54,620 --> 00:16:58,367
it's grabbed something,
it's absolutely welded on.
314
00:16:58,367 --> 00:17:00,860
(soft suspenseful music)
315
00:17:00,860 --> 00:17:02,310
Well, croc, you met your end.
316
00:17:03,900 --> 00:17:06,190
It was a monster like this
that nearly ended the life
317
00:17:06,190 --> 00:17:08,393
of local fisherman Hamid Abd el-Rassul.
318
00:17:09,900 --> 00:17:11,100
Hamid, come and show me.
319
00:17:18,920 --> 00:17:23,003
- And it (mimics jaws snapping).
320
00:17:26,950 --> 00:17:28,400
- Oh, he's got you like that.
321
00:17:29,500 --> 00:17:32,540
And then, he's going along?
322
00:17:32,540 --> 00:17:34,703
Look he climbs over onto the top.
323
00:17:36,440 --> 00:17:37,313
Like this?
324
00:17:53,170 --> 00:17:54,003
- Gee!
325
00:17:56,550 --> 00:17:58,337
- Go, ow.
326
00:17:58,337 --> 00:18:00,810
- Oh, ow, ow, ow, ow, ow.
327
00:18:00,810 --> 00:18:02,330
Ow, ow.
328
00:18:02,330 --> 00:18:03,163
Sit down.
329
00:18:04,100 --> 00:18:08,180
Hamid took 10 hours to crawl
the five miles home in agony.
330
00:18:08,180 --> 00:18:09,980
Oh exhausted, have to rest again,
331
00:18:09,980 --> 00:18:12,180
probably losing quite a lot of blood, too.
332
00:18:12,180 --> 00:18:15,000
And then wake up and still
this awful bleeding leg.
333
00:18:15,000 --> 00:18:16,540
For 10 hours.
334
00:18:16,540 --> 00:18:18,053
And how long in hospital?
335
00:18:22,843 --> 00:18:23,793
- Okay for walking?
336
00:18:26,860 --> 00:18:29,244
- Thank you, Hamid. (speaking
in foreign language)
337
00:18:29,244 --> 00:18:30,638
(Hamid speaking in foreign language)
338
00:18:30,638 --> 00:18:32,140
(soft suspenseful music)
339
00:18:32,140 --> 00:18:33,570
Despite these tales of horror,
340
00:18:33,570 --> 00:18:36,140
I still want to see a crocodile.
341
00:18:36,140 --> 00:18:37,670
We've been told they're back,
342
00:18:37,670 --> 00:18:40,010
so we head to the river for one last look.
343
00:18:40,879 --> 00:18:43,879
(suspenseful music)
344
00:18:49,479 --> 00:18:50,826
Suddenly in the middle of the river.
345
00:18:50,826 --> 00:18:54,159
Look, look, look, that huge, huge thing.
346
00:18:55,876 --> 00:18:59,126
Looks like a log, but it's a crocodile.
347
00:19:00,802 --> 00:19:03,060
It's difficult to tell over
the water how huge it is,
348
00:19:03,060 --> 00:19:06,340
but I guess if it looks that
big and it's in the middle
349
00:19:06,340 --> 00:19:10,477
of the river, it must be at
least 18 or 20 feet long.
350
00:19:11,460 --> 00:19:13,800
This animal is extraordinary.
351
00:19:13,800 --> 00:19:16,790
It evolved 200 million years ago
352
00:19:16,790 --> 00:19:19,260
and it even outlived the dinosaurs.
353
00:19:19,260 --> 00:19:20,193
Pretty impressive.
354
00:19:21,470 --> 00:19:22,780
The truth is, we're not gonna see them
355
00:19:22,780 --> 00:19:24,260
out of the water today.
356
00:19:24,260 --> 00:19:25,320
It's too cool.
357
00:19:25,320 --> 00:19:28,303
It's only about 130, far
too cool for a crocodile.
358
00:19:29,290 --> 00:19:30,857
Jolly cool for me, actually.
359
00:19:32,110 --> 00:19:34,653
Okay, let's go and get some blankets.
360
00:19:37,133 --> 00:19:40,550
(soft suspenseful music)
361
00:19:42,190 --> 00:19:44,110
In a couple of hours it'll be dark,
362
00:19:44,110 --> 00:19:46,290
so we're heading off
into the Nubian Desert
363
00:19:46,290 --> 00:19:48,190
to find somewhere to put up our tents.
364
00:19:50,404 --> 00:19:52,047
The thing is, we're going into the desert
365
00:19:52,047 --> 00:19:54,857
because there are mosquitoes
on the banks of the Nile.
366
00:19:54,857 --> 00:19:56,307
So it'll be lovely.
367
00:19:56,307 --> 00:19:58,596
Pretty exciting to camp
bang in the desert.
368
00:19:58,596 --> 00:20:01,596
(suspenseful music)
369
00:20:13,240 --> 00:20:15,200
This is really beautiful.
370
00:20:15,200 --> 00:20:17,580
Because we really are in
the middle of nowhere.
371
00:20:17,580 --> 00:20:18,860
I mean, you've heard
of the back of beyond.
372
00:20:18,860 --> 00:20:20,530
This is beyond the back of beyond.
373
00:20:20,530 --> 00:20:22,860
It's just nowhere.
374
00:20:22,860 --> 00:20:24,723
It's fantastically exciting.
375
00:20:26,050 --> 00:20:29,320
This is the best campsite
on Earth for tonight.
376
00:20:29,320 --> 00:20:31,330
And the lads are starting already.
377
00:20:31,330 --> 00:20:32,820
Idea, I think I'll walk up a bit slowly
378
00:20:32,820 --> 00:20:35,895
so I just won't be there
quite at the beginning.
379
00:20:35,895 --> 00:20:37,700
(man speaking in foreign language)
380
00:20:37,700 --> 00:20:38,663
Good, great.
381
00:20:39,648 --> 00:20:42,231
(jaunty music)
382
00:20:45,830 --> 00:20:47,033
I couldn't be happier.
383
00:20:47,910 --> 00:20:52,670
We've four drivers, two
cooks, one policeman,
384
00:20:52,670 --> 00:20:55,534
and Musab Abeidi, our
guide and translator.
385
00:20:55,534 --> 00:20:56,611
(Musab speaking in foreign language)
386
00:20:56,611 --> 00:20:58,497
Ah, nothing left for me to do.
387
00:20:58,497 --> 00:21:00,690
(hammer tapping)
388
00:21:00,690 --> 00:21:03,363
My case is called rather
ambitiously Marco Polo.
389
00:21:08,180 --> 00:21:09,013
This is my bed.
390
00:21:14,170 --> 00:21:15,003
It's lovely.
391
00:21:16,296 --> 00:21:19,629
(soft mysterious music)
392
00:21:38,350 --> 00:21:39,740
It's pretty odd to be writing a journal
393
00:21:39,740 --> 00:21:41,440
and put at the top of it Nubian Desert.
394
00:21:41,440 --> 00:21:44,366
I never thought I'd write that in my life.
395
00:21:44,366 --> 00:21:46,087
(Joanna gasps)
396
00:21:46,087 --> 00:21:47,910
The sun's beginning to go.
397
00:21:47,910 --> 00:21:50,660
Everywhere I am in the world, if I can,
398
00:21:50,660 --> 00:21:52,360
I try to watch the sun going down.
399
00:21:54,390 --> 00:21:56,370
Where we live in Scotland,
400
00:21:56,370 --> 00:21:58,050
we watch the sun going down every night.
401
00:21:58,050 --> 00:21:59,883
We can't bear to miss the sun going.
402
00:22:01,750 --> 00:22:05,987
Dear diary, give everything away
403
00:22:09,400 --> 00:22:12,533
and camp.
404
00:22:14,360 --> 00:22:17,793
I didn't write that 'cause
it's not true. (laughs)
405
00:22:28,902 --> 00:22:31,610
On the menu tonight is Nile tilapia,
406
00:22:31,610 --> 00:22:34,050
but as I am vegetarian,
they've kindly prepared me
407
00:22:34,050 --> 00:22:35,473
some beans and chips.
408
00:22:38,663 --> 00:22:42,913
(men speaking in foreign language)
409
00:22:49,031 --> 00:22:50,920
(lighter clicking)
410
00:22:50,920 --> 00:22:51,753
Hm.
411
00:22:55,700 --> 00:22:56,630
Isn't this lovely?
412
00:22:56,630 --> 00:22:58,880
Look, this is the flashy, flashy torch.
413
00:22:58,880 --> 00:23:01,380
It does all that, which is exciting.
414
00:23:01,380 --> 00:23:03,120
So when you're lighting your
candles, your cigarette,
415
00:23:03,120 --> 00:23:04,890
everything, this just goes on and on.
416
00:23:04,890 --> 00:23:06,873
And then, when it's stopped,
417
00:23:07,860 --> 00:23:09,900
shine the other end and
you think it's a torch,
418
00:23:09,900 --> 00:23:13,510
but actually there's this
beautiful little picture
419
00:23:13,510 --> 00:23:14,523
of a beautiful girl.
420
00:23:16,100 --> 00:23:16,933
Look at that.
421
00:23:16,933 --> 00:23:18,510
Found it in the market today.
422
00:23:18,510 --> 00:23:21,460
She's got a lovely bracelet
and a sweet little face.
423
00:23:21,460 --> 00:23:23,890
And it's obviously a men's item,
424
00:23:23,890 --> 00:23:26,280
but isn't that charming and modest?
425
00:23:26,280 --> 00:23:27,500
Not like one of those barrows,
426
00:23:27,500 --> 00:23:28,333
and you twitch it up the other end
427
00:23:28,333 --> 00:23:29,390
and all her clothes come off.
428
00:23:29,390 --> 00:23:31,443
This is just a charming, darling girl.
429
00:23:32,860 --> 00:23:34,923
Oh, she's my new friend, my tent friend.
430
00:23:36,447 --> 00:23:39,447
You see what living in the
desert can do to your brain.
431
00:23:39,447 --> 00:23:42,197
(zipper hissing)
432
00:23:50,630 --> 00:23:52,853
Goodnight. (laughing)
433
00:23:59,326 --> 00:24:02,243
(mysterious music)
434
00:24:27,820 --> 00:24:29,540
We're heading south to the ancient
435
00:24:29,540 --> 00:24:31,610
and sacred town of Karima,
436
00:24:31,610 --> 00:24:34,563
once the heart of the
great kingdom called Nubia.
437
00:24:37,968 --> 00:24:42,885
(villagers chattering in foreign language)
438
00:24:45,980 --> 00:24:49,150
Today, Karima is a market
town, a staging post
439
00:24:49,150 --> 00:24:52,255
for those traveling across
the desert to Khartoum.
440
00:24:52,255 --> 00:24:54,169
(villagers chattering in foreign language)
441
00:24:54,169 --> 00:24:56,880
(man laughing)
442
00:24:56,880 --> 00:24:58,650
I found out that most people here
443
00:24:58,650 --> 00:25:02,160
think of themselves as Nubian,
identifying with a culture
444
00:25:02,160 --> 00:25:05,373
which stretches back over 5,000 years.
445
00:25:07,228 --> 00:25:08,930
(somber music)
446
00:25:08,930 --> 00:25:11,030
We know little of this great civilization,
447
00:25:14,411 --> 00:25:16,380
but just outside the
town, there's evidence
448
00:25:16,380 --> 00:25:19,183
of a chapter of history
that is largely untold:
449
00:25:21,610 --> 00:25:24,283
the story of the Black Pharaohs.
450
00:25:42,996 --> 00:25:44,640
For me, one of the most
extraordinary things
451
00:25:44,640 --> 00:25:49,430
I've discovered on this trip,
is that the great pharaohs
452
00:25:49,430 --> 00:25:51,300
of Egypt didn't all come from Egypt.
453
00:25:51,300 --> 00:25:55,300
In fact, the last burst
of fabulous Egyptology
454
00:25:55,300 --> 00:25:59,120
that we know, the ancient
Egyptians, were in fact Nubians.
455
00:25:59,120 --> 00:25:59,953
It's unbelievable.
456
00:25:59,953 --> 00:26:03,440
There are more than twice as many pyramids
457
00:26:03,440 --> 00:26:06,560
here in the Sudan as there are in Egypt.
458
00:26:06,560 --> 00:26:10,454
But it was here, this
was the seat of power.
459
00:26:10,454 --> 00:26:14,160
(mysterious music)
460
00:26:14,160 --> 00:26:16,520
The Black Pharaohs of Nubia took control
461
00:26:16,520 --> 00:26:19,970
of a huge empire called
the Kingdom of Kush
462
00:26:19,970 --> 00:26:23,410
that stretched south from
here and all the way north
463
00:26:23,410 --> 00:26:26,033
through ancient Egypt
to the Mediterranean.
464
00:26:31,010 --> 00:26:33,080
They moved their capital here
465
00:26:33,080 --> 00:26:35,540
where the Temple of
Amun lies in the shadow
466
00:26:35,540 --> 00:26:38,130
of the sacred mountain Jebel Barkal,
467
00:26:38,130 --> 00:26:40,173
also known as the Pure Mountain.
468
00:26:42,005 --> 00:26:42,840
- [Man] A pyramid.
469
00:26:42,840 --> 00:26:44,920
- They believed this mountain was the home
470
00:26:44,920 --> 00:26:49,393
of the greatest of all gods,
Amun, the god of kingship.
471
00:26:50,470 --> 00:26:51,990
Woops.
472
00:26:51,990 --> 00:26:53,942
Sandy, sandy.
473
00:26:53,942 --> 00:26:56,570
(soft mysterious music)
474
00:26:56,570 --> 00:26:58,960
Every Friday, the Muslim holy day,
475
00:26:58,960 --> 00:27:01,660
people flock to climb its perilous slopes
476
00:27:01,660 --> 00:27:04,013
to watch the sunset over the Nile.
477
00:27:09,739 --> 00:27:12,750
Abdul Magid Omar has
been climbing the Jebel
478
00:27:12,750 --> 00:27:14,690
ever since he could walk.
479
00:27:14,690 --> 00:27:17,103
If anyone knows the best way up, he does.
480
00:27:26,778 --> 00:27:28,693
(Joanna speaking foreign language)
481
00:27:28,693 --> 00:27:29,860
Ah, thank you.
482
00:27:33,727 --> 00:27:35,144
Oh, look at this.
483
00:27:37,637 --> 00:27:38,815
(Abdul speaking in foreign language)
484
00:27:38,815 --> 00:27:39,672
Look at this,
485
00:27:39,672 --> 00:27:41,016
it's the River Nile.
- The River Nile.
486
00:27:41,016 --> 00:27:43,544
- [Joanna] (gasps) It's fantastic.
487
00:27:43,544 --> 00:27:44,413
- [Abdul] Really very, very good.
488
00:27:44,413 --> 00:27:46,357
- [Joanna] It's so beautiful.
489
00:27:46,357 --> 00:27:48,098
- Very good.
490
00:27:48,098 --> 00:27:49,366
It's very good, yes.
491
00:27:49,366 --> 00:27:52,258
This is the top of the hill.
492
00:27:52,258 --> 00:27:53,580
- Yes.
- Yes.
493
00:27:53,580 --> 00:27:54,538
- Oh.
494
00:27:54,538 --> 00:27:56,959
(speaking in foreign
language), holy mountain.
495
00:27:56,959 --> 00:27:57,933
(Abdul speaking in foreign language)
496
00:27:57,933 --> 00:27:59,551
Holy mountain.
497
00:27:59,551 --> 00:28:02,763
(serene music)
498
00:28:02,763 --> 00:28:07,013
(man speaking in foreign language)
499
00:28:16,252 --> 00:28:17,085
Wow.
500
00:28:18,226 --> 00:28:19,520
Wowee, Abdul, look at this.
501
00:28:19,520 --> 00:28:21,216
Isn't it fantastic?
502
00:28:21,216 --> 00:28:24,520
- [Abdul] You found everything.
503
00:28:24,520 --> 00:28:28,180
- Am I right in thinking
that when the Nile is full,
504
00:28:28,180 --> 00:28:31,200
it comes right up to
the edge of this green?
505
00:28:31,200 --> 00:28:32,170
- Yes, 19.
506
00:28:32,170 --> 00:28:36,348
If the Nile flood, 'til just
the feet of Jebel Barkal.
507
00:28:36,348 --> 00:28:37,493
- Yes, here.
- Right up to here?
508
00:28:37,493 --> 00:28:39,700
- [Musab] This here, this water.
509
00:28:39,700 --> 00:28:41,520
- [Joanna] So this is all the old temple.
510
00:28:41,520 --> 00:28:43,200
Oh, how wonderful.
- Oh yes.
511
00:28:43,200 --> 00:28:46,070
- [Joanna] Well don't go too
close, I get terrible vertigo.
512
00:28:58,389 --> 00:28:59,332
- How old will you be?
513
00:28:59,332 --> 00:29:01,878
When you can hardly get up,
will you still come up there?
514
00:29:01,878 --> 00:29:06,295
(Musab speaking in foreign language)
515
00:29:22,244 --> 00:29:23,244
Yes.
- He will never
516
00:29:23,244 --> 00:29:25,290
stop doing it.
- Never stop, very good.
517
00:29:25,290 --> 00:29:26,390
(Abdul speaking in foreign language)
518
00:29:26,390 --> 00:29:27,540
- [Abdul] The sun is...
519
00:29:28,638 --> 00:29:30,251
- [Joanna] Yes, it's just beautiful.
520
00:29:30,251 --> 00:29:31,084
- It's very good now.
521
00:29:31,084 --> 00:29:31,917
- Shams.
522
00:29:31,917 --> 00:29:33,220
- Yes, shams.
523
00:29:33,220 --> 00:29:34,713
- The sun is called shams.
524
00:29:35,790 --> 00:29:36,970
And something which is rather lovely
525
00:29:36,970 --> 00:29:41,100
is that my son, my own son,
as opposed to this sun,
526
00:29:41,100 --> 00:29:43,230
when we were trekking in Hansa,
527
00:29:43,230 --> 00:29:45,870
they couldn't say James
so they called him Shams.
528
00:29:45,870 --> 00:29:48,495
So my son is called Shams and the sun here
529
00:29:48,495 --> 00:29:50,920
is called shams, and today
is my son's birthday.
530
00:29:50,920 --> 00:29:53,520
So the whole thing (chuckles)
is completely perfect.
531
00:29:54,440 --> 00:29:56,943
What a day to be on the holy mountain.
532
00:29:56,943 --> 00:29:59,526
(serene music)
533
00:30:12,693 --> 00:30:13,990
(engines rumbling)
534
00:30:13,990 --> 00:30:17,120
The next morning, we're up
early as our translator,
535
00:30:17,120 --> 00:30:19,390
our draggerman, Musab, has told me
536
00:30:19,390 --> 00:30:22,620
of an extraordinary and
rarely seen burial site
537
00:30:22,620 --> 00:30:24,103
five miles from town.
538
00:30:25,110 --> 00:30:27,480
I think a tourist to
Sudan could be forgiven
539
00:30:27,480 --> 00:30:29,680
for missing out on the next great treat.
540
00:30:29,680 --> 00:30:31,410
It's like Sudan's hidden secret.
541
00:30:31,410 --> 00:30:34,350
It's this extraordinarily important couple
542
00:30:34,350 --> 00:30:35,710
of tombs that still remain.
543
00:30:35,710 --> 00:30:37,240
All the rest have disappeared.
544
00:30:37,240 --> 00:30:39,940
They used to be under pyramids,
now they're just tombs,
545
00:30:39,940 --> 00:30:43,100
but they've got fabulous
things inside, I think.
546
00:30:43,100 --> 00:30:44,350
I can't wait to see them.
547
00:30:45,930 --> 00:30:48,980
(mysterious music)
548
00:30:48,980 --> 00:30:50,440
This is a little local graveyard.
549
00:30:50,440 --> 00:30:53,160
This is how people are buried
today, not like the pharaohs.
550
00:30:53,160 --> 00:30:55,210
Just a small stone at your head and foot,
551
00:30:57,060 --> 00:30:58,810
mosque in the background.
552
00:30:58,810 --> 00:31:00,310
It's rather simple and lovely.
553
00:31:06,361 --> 00:31:09,111
This is the cemetery of El-Kurru.
554
00:31:10,320 --> 00:31:12,470
Here the Black Pharaohs were buried
555
00:31:12,470 --> 00:31:15,597
over two and a half thousand years ago.
556
00:31:15,597 --> 00:31:18,800
(man speaking in foreign language)
557
00:31:18,800 --> 00:31:20,460
However, many graves have since
558
00:31:20,460 --> 00:31:22,543
been ransacked by tomb raiders.
559
00:31:23,500 --> 00:31:25,490
How did they dig into the pyramids?
560
00:31:25,490 --> 00:31:29,010
- They start, the people
looking for the treasures
561
00:31:29,010 --> 00:31:31,240
on the top of the pyramids.
562
00:31:31,240 --> 00:31:33,760
And then they dig all the pyramid
563
00:31:33,760 --> 00:31:36,832
and they found the top of the tomb.
564
00:31:36,832 --> 00:31:37,665
(Joanna gasps)
565
00:31:37,665 --> 00:31:40,100
Like this here if you can see.
566
00:31:40,100 --> 00:31:40,933
- Yes.
567
00:31:40,933 --> 00:31:41,766
- [Musab] They open it from the top.
568
00:31:41,766 --> 00:31:43,590
- [Joanna] And they found they
were in the burial chamber?
569
00:31:43,590 --> 00:31:47,160
- Yes, they discover that there is a door
570
00:31:47,160 --> 00:31:48,770
bringing to outside.
- I see.
571
00:31:48,770 --> 00:31:49,852
So then they started to look--
572
00:31:49,852 --> 00:31:52,658
- Then they start to
dig in the correct way.
573
00:31:52,658 --> 00:31:55,900
(mysterious music)
(man chattering)
574
00:31:55,900 --> 00:31:58,760
- Despite the vandalism,
the most impressive tomb
575
00:31:58,760 --> 00:32:03,160
is that of Queen Qalhata, mother
of the last Nubian pharaoh.
576
00:32:03,160 --> 00:32:04,185
Huge staircase.
577
00:32:04,185 --> 00:32:05,018
- Be careful.
578
00:32:05,018 --> 00:32:06,000
- With a great big step.
579
00:32:18,080 --> 00:32:22,547
So this ceiling is very
beautiful and blue.
580
00:32:22,547 --> 00:32:24,510
And here, Musab, is this where the body
581
00:32:24,510 --> 00:32:26,370
would have been put down on here?
582
00:32:26,370 --> 00:32:31,060
- [Masub] Yes, here it should
be in this point exactly.
583
00:32:31,060 --> 00:32:33,624
- Can we go onto it,
can we step on it now?
584
00:32:33,624 --> 00:32:34,854
- Yeah.
585
00:32:34,854 --> 00:32:38,590
- And this is the picture of
her body lying as it would be.
586
00:32:38,590 --> 00:32:40,030
- Yes, very--
- Wrapped in her
587
00:32:40,030 --> 00:32:40,863
funeral clothes.
588
00:32:40,863 --> 00:32:42,113
- Yes, and she's dying.
589
00:32:43,660 --> 00:32:46,940
You see here the bed,
the shape of the lion.
590
00:32:46,940 --> 00:32:48,518
- [Joanna] Yes.
591
00:32:48,518 --> 00:32:51,023
- And all the tools of the war under
592
00:32:51,023 --> 00:32:55,410
because our queens they
were a warrior queen.
593
00:32:55,410 --> 00:32:57,944
- Right, so these are weapons.
594
00:32:57,944 --> 00:33:02,685
- Yes, an arrow.
- Daggers, spears, arrows.
595
00:33:02,685 --> 00:33:04,189
The Nubians were good with arrows,
596
00:33:04,189 --> 00:33:05,022
weren't they?
- Yes. (chuckles)
597
00:33:05,022 --> 00:33:05,855
- They were great archers, I think.
598
00:33:05,855 --> 00:33:06,710
- Her favorite of these.
599
00:33:06,710 --> 00:33:09,100
- Yes, how fantastic.
600
00:33:09,100 --> 00:33:09,993
Look at that bow.
601
00:33:11,400 --> 00:33:12,793
That's wonderful.
602
00:33:14,040 --> 00:33:16,417
But here on this side (gasps).
603
00:33:17,590 --> 00:33:19,000
Now this wonderful.
604
00:33:19,000 --> 00:33:20,310
I'm going to get down and look at this
605
00:33:20,310 --> 00:33:22,270
because she's turned around.
606
00:33:22,270 --> 00:33:23,980
She seems to have come back to life.
607
00:33:23,980 --> 00:33:26,582
- [Masub] Yes, after smelling the ankh.
608
00:33:26,582 --> 00:33:28,130
- After smelling the ankh.
609
00:33:28,130 --> 00:33:29,490
So that's the key of life there.
610
00:33:29,490 --> 00:33:31,020
- Yes.
- With the crisscross
611
00:33:31,020 --> 00:33:32,250
and that loop there.
612
00:33:32,250 --> 00:33:34,210
He's giving it to her to smell.
613
00:33:34,210 --> 00:33:35,053
Here's the god.
614
00:33:36,040 --> 00:33:38,100
And here she's woken and turned around
615
00:33:38,950 --> 00:33:43,839
and she's lying up on her
stomach, feeling better already.
616
00:33:43,839 --> 00:33:46,756
(mysterious music)
617
00:33:49,190 --> 00:33:51,513
Only 1,000 people a year come here.
618
00:33:53,794 --> 00:33:54,910
That's not very many, is it?
619
00:33:54,910 --> 00:33:56,490
I hope it stays like this.
620
00:33:56,490 --> 00:33:58,040
I'd hate it to get any grander.
621
00:33:59,430 --> 00:34:01,330
I'd hate it that we couldn't film
622
00:34:01,330 --> 00:34:03,083
or stand up close to the walls.
623
00:34:04,500 --> 00:34:06,500
I'd hate it that we didn't have Ali
624
00:34:06,500 --> 00:34:08,063
with his key to unlock it.
625
00:34:10,500 --> 00:34:12,850
I'd hate it that the
steps would get worn down.
626
00:34:16,740 --> 00:34:18,993
But I wouldn't hate it to
be a little bit cooler.
627
00:34:28,203 --> 00:34:30,786
(gentle music)
628
00:34:34,890 --> 00:34:39,100
Karima, a town full of
echos of the ancient past,
629
00:34:39,100 --> 00:34:42,383
from its holy mountain right
down to the banks of the Nile.
630
00:34:47,450 --> 00:34:49,910
These old boats are a stark reminder
631
00:34:49,910 --> 00:34:52,450
of a more recent age
when the river was used
632
00:34:52,450 --> 00:34:55,833
to transport goods, animals,
and people along its banks.
633
00:34:59,030 --> 00:35:01,320
Now it seems the river looks empty,
634
00:35:01,320 --> 00:35:03,523
unused, almost forgotten.
635
00:35:07,970 --> 00:35:10,210
But for the locals, the Nile hasn't lost
636
00:35:10,210 --> 00:35:11,573
its spiritual power.
637
00:35:13,522 --> 00:35:18,189
(villagers singing in foreign language)
638
00:35:20,378 --> 00:35:23,933
Nowhere is this more apparent
than at a Nubian wedding.
639
00:35:25,002 --> 00:35:29,335
(women singing in foreign language)
640
00:35:31,079 --> 00:35:33,817
(man speaking in foreign language)
641
00:35:33,817 --> 00:35:36,930
(Joanna and woman speaking
in foreign language)
642
00:35:36,930 --> 00:35:41,930
(women singing in foreign language)
643
00:35:41,966 --> 00:35:44,350
I think we're heading down
to the river, the River Nile.
644
00:35:44,350 --> 00:35:46,460
I think some sort of
ceremony goes on there.
645
00:35:46,460 --> 00:35:47,910
And I said to them (speaking
in foreign language),
646
00:35:47,910 --> 00:35:49,931
which means congratulations.
647
00:35:49,931 --> 00:35:54,264
(women singing in foreign language)
648
00:35:55,620 --> 00:35:58,170
Muslim men are allowed four wives,
649
00:35:58,170 --> 00:36:01,883
but Huwaida is Mohammad's
one and only bride.
650
00:36:01,883 --> 00:36:06,883
(woman singing in foreign language)
651
00:36:07,030 --> 00:36:09,430
And this isn't an arranged marriage.
652
00:36:09,430 --> 00:36:11,297
They chose each other.
653
00:36:11,297 --> 00:36:13,890
(villagers chattering in foreign language)
654
00:36:13,890 --> 00:36:16,500
To bring the couple a
long and happy marriage,
655
00:36:16,500 --> 00:36:19,410
the guests make an
offering of dates and wheat
656
00:36:19,410 --> 00:36:20,987
to the River Nile.
657
00:36:20,987 --> 00:36:23,800
(villagers chattering in foreign language)
658
00:36:23,800 --> 00:36:26,383
(gentle music)
659
00:36:44,178 --> 00:36:48,261
The marriage is blessed
with water from the Nile.
660
00:36:52,370 --> 00:36:55,460
This is the final ceremony of
their marriage celebrations
661
00:36:55,460 --> 00:36:56,860
that have lasted seven days.
662
00:36:57,920 --> 00:37:00,503
(gentle music)
663
00:37:19,703 --> 00:37:24,036
(women singing in foreign language)
664
00:37:27,255 --> 00:37:29,489
And I think this, snapping your fingers
665
00:37:29,489 --> 00:37:31,100
and sort of doing that,
is a kind of blessing
666
00:37:31,100 --> 00:37:32,270
'cause I did that to the bridegroom
667
00:37:32,270 --> 00:37:33,880
and he looked very please.
668
00:37:33,880 --> 00:37:35,471
And all the women were urging me to clap.
669
00:37:35,471 --> 00:37:38,780
They were going, come on
clap, get in with it, and I...
670
00:37:38,780 --> 00:37:40,745
So a lot of that was going on.
671
00:37:40,745 --> 00:37:43,745
(suspenseful music)
672
00:37:46,010 --> 00:37:48,760
Saying goodbye to Karima,
we're taking a shortcut
673
00:37:48,760 --> 00:37:50,173
across the Bayuda Desert.
674
00:37:52,120 --> 00:37:54,630
Then we'll rejoin the
river, which will take us
675
00:37:54,630 --> 00:37:57,310
into the capital of Sudan, Khartoum,
676
00:37:57,310 --> 00:38:00,649
halfway point of my
journey along the Nile.
677
00:38:00,649 --> 00:38:03,649
(suspenseful music)
678
00:38:14,960 --> 00:38:17,520
I've always been fascinated
by this tough race
679
00:38:17,520 --> 00:38:20,230
of people, the pastoralists, who live
680
00:38:20,230 --> 00:38:22,723
a nomadic existence in
these harsh deserts.
681
00:38:24,550 --> 00:38:27,570
Around 10% of Sudan's 40 million people
682
00:38:27,570 --> 00:38:31,193
follow a way of life that
hasn't changed for centuries.
683
00:38:33,100 --> 00:38:35,710
The Hasania tribe moved here from Egypt
684
00:38:35,710 --> 00:38:37,425
a thousand years ago.
685
00:38:37,425 --> 00:38:40,342
(mysterious music)
686
00:38:47,334 --> 00:38:52,334
(Joanna and villagers
speaking in foreign language)
687
00:38:53,520 --> 00:38:55,730
Four generations of the Hasan family
688
00:38:55,730 --> 00:38:57,290
have come to say hello.
689
00:38:57,290 --> 00:38:58,948
Thank you.
690
00:38:58,948 --> 00:39:03,140
(group speaking in foreign language)
691
00:39:03,140 --> 00:39:04,370
Thank you, (speaking in foreign language).
692
00:39:07,300 --> 00:39:08,133
How lovely.
693
00:39:08,133 --> 00:39:09,100
This is a beautiful bowl of yogurt
694
00:39:09,100 --> 00:39:10,609
I've just been offered,
which is delicious.
695
00:39:10,609 --> 00:39:12,900
- (chuckles) Oh yes.
- So very delicious.
696
00:39:12,900 --> 00:39:14,058
It's lovely.
697
00:39:14,058 --> 00:39:15,367
Hello, (speaking in foreign
language), little one.
698
00:39:15,367 --> 00:39:16,560
(children speaking in foreign language)
699
00:39:16,560 --> 00:39:18,841
Hello, baby, hello (speaking
in foreign language).
700
00:39:18,841 --> 00:39:21,024
Hello, little one, (speaking
in foreign language).
701
00:39:21,024 --> 00:39:24,214
- Them is able.
(speaking in foreign language)
702
00:39:24,214 --> 00:39:25,670
She's asking about your name.
703
00:39:25,670 --> 00:39:27,207
- My name is Joanna.
704
00:39:27,207 --> 00:39:28,190
(women speaking in foreign language)
705
00:39:28,190 --> 00:39:29,224
- Joanna.
- Joanna.
706
00:39:29,224 --> 00:39:31,104
(women laugh)
707
00:39:31,104 --> 00:39:34,075
(woman speaking in foreign language)
708
00:39:34,075 --> 00:39:34,908
(goats bleating)
709
00:39:34,908 --> 00:39:36,310
- [Joanna] This place is so remote
710
00:39:36,310 --> 00:39:37,540
that some of the older people
711
00:39:37,540 --> 00:39:38,980
may not have seen an English person
712
00:39:38,980 --> 00:39:41,660
since the British occupation of Sudan,
713
00:39:41,660 --> 00:39:43,553
which ended 50 years ago.
714
00:39:44,630 --> 00:39:46,080
Oh this is wonderful in here.
715
00:39:47,500 --> 00:39:48,594
This is so lovely.
716
00:39:48,594 --> 00:39:49,644
May I sit here?
717
00:39:49,644 --> 00:39:53,830
May I sit here?
718
00:39:55,630 --> 00:39:57,230
- When she was as young as this.
719
00:40:00,350 --> 00:40:02,467
- [Musab] When they saw
the English, they were--
720
00:40:05,164 --> 00:40:07,831
(Joanna laughs)
721
00:40:22,840 --> 00:40:27,840
- And this is yogurt being
made in a goat skin like that.
722
00:40:28,300 --> 00:40:30,500
I'm not sure if I'm
meant to bump that stem.
723
00:40:32,677 --> 00:40:34,833
- (laughs) You passed the job over to me.
724
00:40:40,010 --> 00:40:42,240
- Eventually Great Grandmother Medina
725
00:40:42,240 --> 00:40:45,100
became too old to travel,
so the family decided
726
00:40:45,100 --> 00:40:48,988
to settle here where
they've been for 22 years.
727
00:40:48,988 --> 00:40:51,640
(bright music)
728
00:40:51,640 --> 00:40:53,880
However, as head of a family of 10,
729
00:40:53,880 --> 00:40:56,700
Mohammad continues a semi-nomadic life,
730
00:40:56,700 --> 00:41:00,130
breeding livestock and
transporting salt by camel,
731
00:41:00,130 --> 00:41:03,063
nearly 200 miles across
the desert to Khartoum.
732
00:41:07,970 --> 00:41:11,770
Tell me why you prefer to
live in the open spaces
733
00:41:11,770 --> 00:41:15,210
in the fresh air rather than in a city
734
00:41:15,210 --> 00:41:17,733
with buildings and roads.
735
00:41:53,179 --> 00:41:55,346
- I love this way of life.
736
00:41:59,030 --> 00:42:01,613
(gentle music)
737
00:42:05,918 --> 00:42:08,080
- It's just fantastic.
738
00:42:08,080 --> 00:42:09,720
And I understand them absolutely longing
739
00:42:09,720 --> 00:42:11,700
to be in the open air
740
00:42:11,700 --> 00:42:14,510
and have eye stretching views like this,
741
00:42:14,510 --> 00:42:15,860
with the wind blowing through rather than
742
00:42:15,860 --> 00:42:18,840
in a hot town with fumes of petrol
743
00:42:19,800 --> 00:42:21,543
and busy people all the time.
744
00:42:25,000 --> 00:42:26,610
And it's a hard life.
745
00:42:26,610 --> 00:42:29,983
It's a hard life, but
you're free, you're free.
746
00:42:31,202 --> 00:42:35,180
(Mohammad speaking in foreign language)
747
00:42:35,180 --> 00:42:38,233
Though this freedom comes at a price.
748
00:42:39,180 --> 00:42:41,960
To get water, Mohammad
must travel 10 miles
749
00:42:41,960 --> 00:42:45,500
to the nearest well,
and most people in Sudan
750
00:42:45,500 --> 00:42:47,583
have less than a pound a day to live on.
751
00:42:49,394 --> 00:42:52,144
(goats bleating)
752
00:42:54,100 --> 00:42:56,620
Think you could live like this
in a kind of romantic dream,
753
00:42:56,620 --> 00:42:59,900
but I suppose in the end you go back
754
00:42:59,900 --> 00:43:04,900
to your curtains closed and
your keys clinking and...
755
00:43:07,340 --> 00:43:09,840
I'm not sure we've got it
right, though, you know?
756
00:43:12,104 --> 00:43:14,990
I mean, we might not want
to live as simply as this,
757
00:43:14,990 --> 00:43:19,990
but I'm not sure we've got it
right in the Western world.
758
00:43:24,100 --> 00:43:26,463
No, it's a twig for me,
a twig house for me.
759
00:43:28,370 --> 00:43:29,203
Right.
760
00:43:30,530 --> 00:43:33,833
Twig house, let's try that
in London, see if I moved on.
761
00:43:36,126 --> 00:43:41,126
(goats bleating)
(suspenseful music)
762
00:43:49,180 --> 00:43:52,910
We push on, towards the
Nile, and then Khartoum,
763
00:43:52,910 --> 00:43:55,303
which lies a two-day drive ahead of us.
764
00:44:00,270 --> 00:44:03,463
Unfortunately, the desert has other ideas.
765
00:44:05,302 --> 00:44:06,385
Oh, Mohammad.
766
00:44:09,580 --> 00:44:12,310
We're stuck, miles from anywhere.
767
00:44:12,310 --> 00:44:14,465
But thankfully, we're not alone.
768
00:44:14,465 --> 00:44:15,298
(man speaking in foreign language)
769
00:44:15,298 --> 00:44:17,040
Charming people just
materialize out of nowhere.
770
00:44:17,040 --> 00:44:20,350
It seems to be empty and it's
actually quite full of people.
771
00:44:20,350 --> 00:44:23,350
(suspenseful music)
772
00:44:25,380 --> 00:44:26,850
Do you think we should bounce it?
773
00:44:26,850 --> 00:44:28,460
Do you think if you bounce it,
774
00:44:28,460 --> 00:44:31,058
does that sometimes
help you get out of it?
775
00:44:31,058 --> 00:44:35,475
(men chattering in foreign language)
776
00:44:44,256 --> 00:44:47,173
(triumphant music)
777
00:44:48,858 --> 00:44:53,858
Good. (speaking in foreign language)
778
00:44:55,230 --> 00:44:56,543
We're driving southeast,
779
00:44:59,187 --> 00:45:01,860
southeast across the desert to Khartoum.
780
00:45:01,860 --> 00:45:02,840
We'll have to stop for the night
781
00:45:02,840 --> 00:45:05,712
before we get there
'cause it's a long drive.
782
00:45:05,712 --> 00:45:07,400
It's rather exciting, isn't it?
783
00:45:07,400 --> 00:45:09,501
Oh look, the cars, well bye.
784
00:45:09,501 --> 00:45:12,084
(jaunty music)
785
00:45:15,040 --> 00:45:17,420
So, on to Khartoum, where my journey
786
00:45:17,420 --> 00:45:18,663
takes a new direction.
787
00:45:19,510 --> 00:45:22,620
There, our great river is
joined by the Blue Nile
788
00:45:22,620 --> 00:45:25,120
and I'll follow it into
the highlands of Ethiopia.
789
00:45:26,467 --> 00:45:29,467
(mysterious music)
58443
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