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(mystical music)
2
00:00:15,740 --> 00:00:17,260
- Behind me is the Mediterranean,
3
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and in front of me is Egypt,
4
00:00:19,630 --> 00:00:21,740
and the mouth of the Nile.
5
00:00:21,740 --> 00:00:23,110
For the next four programs,
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I'm going to be following
this mighty river,
7
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4000 miles right into the heart of Africa.
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Join me, stay with me.
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You'll feel foolish if you don't.
10
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Yes?
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(speaking foreign language)
12
00:00:36,060 --> 00:00:38,543
We're now officially in the Nile.
13
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This is just the beginning
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00:00:51,980 --> 00:00:55,313
of one of the most remarkable
journeys I've ever made.
15
00:00:58,590 --> 00:01:01,950
Following in the footsteps
of other intrepid explorers,
16
00:01:01,950 --> 00:01:04,483
our expedition will take
us to faraway lands,
17
00:01:14,020 --> 00:01:15,823
spectacular scenery,
18
00:01:19,070 --> 00:01:20,593
extraordinary people ...
19
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(children laughing)
20
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Yes!
21
00:01:26,204 --> 00:01:27,980
(speaking in foreign language)
22
00:01:27,980 --> 00:01:30,003
The adventure of a lifetime ...
23
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And finally, after 60 tough days,
24
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I hope to realize my dream,
25
00:01:41,560 --> 00:01:43,881
to reach the source of the Nile.
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- [Woman] Here we are.
27
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- Oh my gosh!
28
00:02:13,540 --> 00:02:15,650
I'm starting in Alexandria,
29
00:02:15,650 --> 00:02:18,900
one of the most famous
cities of the ancient world.
30
00:02:18,900 --> 00:02:21,770
It's played host to history's A-list.
31
00:02:21,770 --> 00:02:25,100
Founded by Alexander the
Great, home of Cleopatra,
32
00:02:25,100 --> 00:02:28,550
Egypt's last queen, conquered by Napoleon,
33
00:02:28,550 --> 00:02:30,620
and visited by Churchill.
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00:02:30,620 --> 00:02:34,793
Alexandria was capital of
Egypt for over 1000 years.
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Today, most of what made
it famous has faded away,
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engulfed by the modern world.
37
00:02:47,300 --> 00:02:49,530
I swap my fishing boat for the train
38
00:02:49,530 --> 00:02:52,140
to take me south on the
first leg of my journey
39
00:02:52,140 --> 00:02:52,973
along the Nile.
40
00:03:06,400 --> 00:03:11,350
So here is this extraordinary
continent of Africa.
41
00:03:11,350 --> 00:03:13,350
As an army brat, we used to travel
42
00:03:13,350 --> 00:03:15,450
out the far east and back by ship,
43
00:03:15,450 --> 00:03:17,330
and we always came here, past Aden
44
00:03:17,330 --> 00:03:19,820
up through the Red Sea, take on a pilot,
45
00:03:19,820 --> 00:03:22,050
cross through the Suez Canal.
46
00:03:22,050 --> 00:03:24,240
I used to look out to
the left, and just wonder
47
00:03:24,240 --> 00:03:26,950
knowing that was Egypt,
knowing that was Africa,
48
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knowing that that was the Nile,
49
00:03:28,410 --> 00:03:30,280
which of course, you couldn't see,
50
00:03:30,280 --> 00:03:31,930
and I've been yearning to see this
51
00:03:31,930 --> 00:03:35,270
since I was a little
girl, sailing to and fro.
52
00:03:35,270 --> 00:03:37,770
And we're going to be
following this colossal river,
53
00:03:37,770 --> 00:03:39,740
not only through Egypt, because people say
54
00:03:39,740 --> 00:03:41,920
you're going on the Nile,
how lovely, you'll see Egypt.
55
00:03:41,920 --> 00:03:44,530
You go, Egypt isn't the half of it,
56
00:03:44,530 --> 00:03:45,880
it isn't the quarter of it.
57
00:03:47,510 --> 00:03:50,363
This journey will take me
through five countries.
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00:03:51,890 --> 00:03:55,340
From Egypt, we'll cross into
the deserts of northern Sudan,
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00:03:55,340 --> 00:03:58,730
where in Khartoum, the Nile
is joined by the Blue Nile,
60
00:03:58,730 --> 00:04:01,030
and will take a new
direction following the river
61
00:04:01,030 --> 00:04:02,823
into the highlands of Ethiopia.
62
00:04:04,740 --> 00:04:08,420
We then rejoin the Nile in
war-torn southern Sudan,
63
00:04:08,420 --> 00:04:12,620
continuing south through
Uganda, pushing on into Rwanda,
64
00:04:12,620 --> 00:04:15,020
where my journey on the
world's longest river
65
00:04:15,020 --> 00:04:16,237
comes to an end.
66
00:04:22,593 --> 00:04:25,110
It's an unbelievable journey
we're going to be making,
67
00:04:25,110 --> 00:04:26,280
and we're just up here.
68
00:04:26,280 --> 00:04:30,460
That's the just the beginning
of this 4000 mile trip.
69
00:04:30,460 --> 00:04:32,453
And our first stop is Cairo.
70
00:04:34,034 --> 00:04:37,117
(train horn blowing)
71
00:04:38,680 --> 00:04:42,320
To get to Cairo, the train
travels through the Nile Delta,
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00:04:42,320 --> 00:04:46,460
a huge agricultural area the size of Wales
73
00:04:46,460 --> 00:04:48,243
and home to over 40 million people.
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00:04:52,230 --> 00:04:55,080
This precious land not only feeds Egypt,
75
00:04:55,080 --> 00:04:57,930
but also supplies it with
their most famous export,
76
00:04:57,930 --> 00:04:58,923
Egyptian cotton.
77
00:05:04,849 --> 00:05:07,849
(car horns blaring)
78
00:05:21,973 --> 00:05:25,570
The Nile in Cairo is
crisscrossed with bridges.
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00:05:25,570 --> 00:05:27,650
It's so lovely, because
each time you get on one,
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00:05:27,650 --> 00:05:30,160
which we're just about to now,
81
00:05:30,160 --> 00:05:32,943
you look down and see
those fabulous waters.
82
00:05:35,310 --> 00:05:36,330
Look how wide it is.
83
00:05:36,330 --> 00:05:39,720
It's a huge river, and
it's got this Nile green,
84
00:05:39,720 --> 00:05:41,860
which of course the French
very chicly described
85
00:05:41,860 --> 00:05:45,920
as "Eau de Nil" and it became
a fabulous fashion color,
86
00:05:45,920 --> 00:05:47,743
rather pale, sort of willow color.
87
00:05:48,990 --> 00:05:51,423
And Cairo, I mean I can't get over it.
88
00:05:51,423 --> 00:05:54,810
It's the largest city in Africa by far,
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00:05:54,810 --> 00:05:57,323
and has been for 800 years.
90
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(mystical music)
91
00:06:00,530 --> 00:06:02,800
Affectionately named
the mother of the world
92
00:06:02,800 --> 00:06:06,840
in medieval times, 18 million
people jostle for space
93
00:06:06,840 --> 00:06:08,016
in this city.
94
00:06:08,016 --> 00:06:12,065
(traffic horns blaring)
95
00:06:12,065 --> 00:06:14,290
(people shouting)
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00:06:14,290 --> 00:06:16,620
The pollution is so bad
that it's said to be
97
00:06:16,620 --> 00:06:19,513
the equivalent of smoking
20 cigarettes a day.
98
00:06:21,370 --> 00:06:23,860
It's been on the tourist
map for centuries,
99
00:06:23,860 --> 00:06:25,980
and was especially
popular with the British
100
00:06:25,980 --> 00:06:28,453
during Victorian and Edwardian times.
101
00:06:32,370 --> 00:06:34,240
Agatha Christie came here as a young girl,
102
00:06:34,240 --> 00:06:36,760
and she was absolutely entranced,
103
00:06:36,760 --> 00:06:39,330
but funny enough, she loved coming here
104
00:06:39,330 --> 00:06:40,570
for the night life of Cairo,
105
00:06:40,570 --> 00:06:42,850
it was a very buzzing hot city.
106
00:06:42,850 --> 00:06:43,990
She said something quite interesting.
107
00:06:43,990 --> 00:06:47,520
She said Cairo, from the
point of view of a girl,
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00:06:47,520 --> 00:06:49,970
was a dream of a city.
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00:06:49,970 --> 00:06:52,010
The wonders of antiquity
were the last thing
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I wanted to see.
111
00:06:53,140 --> 00:06:54,830
Luxor, Karnak, the beauties of Egypt
112
00:06:54,830 --> 00:06:56,810
were to come upon me with wonderful impact
113
00:06:56,810 --> 00:06:58,430
about 20 years later.
114
00:06:58,430 --> 00:07:00,570
Now isn't that just as a late teenage girl
115
00:07:00,570 --> 00:07:02,580
who wants to party, isn't
that just the words?
116
00:07:02,580 --> 00:07:05,070
You just go, like we're in Cairo,
117
00:07:05,070 --> 00:07:07,470
where are the clubs, where
are people hanging out?
118
00:07:07,470 --> 00:07:09,179
That's exactly what she was like.
119
00:07:09,179 --> 00:07:10,843
She went pyramids, schmyr-amids.
120
00:07:10,843 --> 00:07:11,820
(horn honking)
121
00:07:11,820 --> 00:07:12,920
Do you know, I don't
think she did say that.
122
00:07:12,920 --> 00:07:14,523
But that's the kind of attitude.
123
00:07:19,200 --> 00:07:21,880
To get about, Agatha Christie
would most definitely
124
00:07:21,880 --> 00:07:24,683
have had a dragoman, a
guide and translator.
125
00:07:25,610 --> 00:07:27,220
- So this is Khalili market.
126
00:07:27,220 --> 00:07:30,010
It's a market, and it's
a local tourist market.
127
00:07:30,010 --> 00:07:31,400
Everyone come here.
- Yeah.
128
00:07:31,400 --> 00:07:33,900
It seems sensible to have my own dragoman,
129
00:07:33,900 --> 00:07:35,850
so allow me to introduce to you
130
00:07:35,850 --> 00:07:37,980
my friend, Ramy Romany.
131
00:07:37,980 --> 00:07:40,073
He's an expert in all things Egyptian.
132
00:07:41,400 --> 00:07:45,860
- This is a part of the old wall of Cairo.
133
00:07:45,860 --> 00:07:47,380
- It's Ramadan.
134
00:07:47,380 --> 00:07:49,340
During this time of religious fasting,
135
00:07:49,340 --> 00:07:52,050
it's forbidden to eat
or drink during the day.
136
00:07:52,050 --> 00:07:54,150
However, the prophet Muhammad did allow
137
00:07:54,150 --> 00:07:56,260
one relaxation of the rules,
138
00:07:56,260 --> 00:07:59,370
which has become known
as entertaining the fast
139
00:07:59,370 --> 00:08:00,813
using a miswak.
140
00:08:03,387 --> 00:08:05,671
- Here you go. That's a miswak.
141
00:08:05,671 --> 00:08:07,390
(speaking foreign language)
142
00:08:07,390 --> 00:08:09,570
- [Joanna] It looks just
like a piece of wood to me.
143
00:08:09,570 --> 00:08:11,846
- [Ramy] When you taste
it, it's not, actually.
144
00:08:11,846 --> 00:08:13,170
So basically, that's one for you,
145
00:08:13,170 --> 00:08:14,340
and I got one for me.
146
00:08:14,340 --> 00:08:15,173
- Yeah?
147
00:08:16,900 --> 00:08:18,750
Oh no, no, no, no. I insist.
148
00:08:18,750 --> 00:08:20,070
- Okay, Joanna.
149
00:08:20,070 --> 00:08:21,550
So basically--
- Yeah.
150
00:08:21,550 --> 00:08:23,467
- You gotta be very ...
151
00:08:25,543 --> 00:08:27,590
Can you feel the taste of them?
152
00:08:28,788 --> 00:08:29,621
- Not yet, no.
153
00:08:29,621 --> 00:08:31,300
What have I got to do, bite it? No.
154
00:08:31,300 --> 00:08:32,812
- [Ramy] No, as soon as you keep going--
155
00:08:32,812 --> 00:08:34,500
- Keep going, something
with the juice will come out
156
00:08:34,500 --> 00:08:35,333
of something?
157
00:08:37,860 --> 00:08:38,850
This is entertaining the fast?
158
00:08:38,850 --> 00:08:41,930
- Yeah, don't you find this entertaining?
159
00:08:41,930 --> 00:08:43,130
- [Joanna] It is. It is.
160
00:08:44,070 --> 00:08:45,720
- I think it's very entertaining.
161
00:08:47,261 --> 00:08:49,300
- At the moment, it's
like chewing a chair leg.
162
00:08:49,300 --> 00:08:51,960
I know it's going to burst
into action in a second.
163
00:08:51,960 --> 00:08:53,913
Maybe I made the mistake of swapping.
164
00:08:58,310 --> 00:09:00,256
- They have a better
price on miswak, as well.
165
00:09:00,256 --> 00:09:01,089
- A better price?
166
00:09:01,089 --> 00:09:02,414
You mean you got me the cheapest one?
167
00:09:02,414 --> 00:09:03,440
- I didn't know he had a better one.
168
00:09:03,440 --> 00:09:05,920
- Okay, we want the better price please.
169
00:09:05,920 --> 00:09:06,753
I'll keep this.
170
00:09:06,753 --> 00:09:07,970
I'm not rejecting this, obviously.
171
00:09:07,970 --> 00:09:11,630
I can just slip it into a
dish of Twiglets at home,
172
00:09:11,630 --> 00:09:13,280
and give somebody a lovely shock.
173
00:09:14,150 --> 00:09:15,100
Is that my new one?
174
00:09:17,472 --> 00:09:18,860
Good. Thank you.
175
00:09:18,860 --> 00:09:20,870
Shukran. Thank you for that.
176
00:09:20,870 --> 00:09:22,970
This looks altogether much more promising.
177
00:09:25,370 --> 00:09:26,360
- [Ramy] How does it feel?
178
00:09:26,360 --> 00:09:27,330
- That's lovely.
179
00:09:27,330 --> 00:09:28,163
- [Ramy] Good.
180
00:09:28,163 --> 00:09:30,760
- So I might finish this one
in two weeks, or a night?
181
00:09:30,760 --> 00:09:31,960
- I think with you Joanna, it might take
182
00:09:31,960 --> 00:09:32,955
a couple of years.
183
00:09:32,955 --> 00:09:35,860
(laughing)
184
00:09:35,860 --> 00:09:37,070
- [Joanna] I haven't got two years,
185
00:09:37,070 --> 00:09:39,750
because tomorrow I set
off on the next part
186
00:09:39,750 --> 00:09:40,583
of my journey.
187
00:09:41,730 --> 00:09:45,346
But you can't leave Cairo
without seeing the pyramids.
188
00:09:45,346 --> 00:09:48,346
(adventurous music)
189
00:09:52,539 --> 00:09:55,289
(mystical music)
190
00:10:07,070 --> 00:10:10,090
Ramy, my friend and guide,
has suggested we travel
191
00:10:10,090 --> 00:10:11,723
to see the pyramids by camel.
192
00:10:13,410 --> 00:10:14,886
It's a real treat, he said.
193
00:10:14,886 --> 00:10:15,900
- [Ramy] Mahmoud!
194
00:10:15,900 --> 00:10:18,665
- [Joanna] I can't
think of anything nicer.
195
00:10:18,665 --> 00:10:20,082
- [Ramy] Mahmoud.
196
00:10:21,150 --> 00:10:23,627
- [Joanna] He's brought
me to meet Mahmoud Adel.
197
00:10:23,627 --> 00:10:24,525
Salaam, hello.
198
00:10:24,525 --> 00:10:25,483
- Hi how are you?
199
00:10:25,483 --> 00:10:26,316
- Good to meet you.
200
00:10:26,316 --> 00:10:28,560
He's been looking after
camels since he was 12.
201
00:10:32,220 --> 00:10:35,200
His favorite camel is Charlie Brown.
202
00:10:35,200 --> 00:10:36,693
This is Charlie.
203
00:10:37,770 --> 00:10:39,470
Hello, Charlie.
204
00:10:39,470 --> 00:10:41,070
How old is Charlie?
205
00:10:41,070 --> 00:10:42,490
- [Mahmoud] Seven years.
206
00:10:42,490 --> 00:10:45,871
- [Joanna] Mahmoud, he
looks absolutely beautiful.
207
00:10:45,871 --> 00:10:47,570
- I take care of him.
208
00:10:47,570 --> 00:10:50,060
I play with him, give
him a shower every day,
209
00:10:50,060 --> 00:10:52,190
and I take care of them so much
210
00:10:52,190 --> 00:10:53,580
because I love them.
211
00:10:53,580 --> 00:10:55,791
- Well, I think I'm falling in
love with you, Charlie Brown.
212
00:10:55,791 --> 00:10:56,820
(laughing)
213
00:10:56,820 --> 00:10:58,477
- [Mahmoud] Likes you, Charlie.
214
00:10:58,477 --> 00:10:59,310
- Hello, darling.
215
00:10:59,310 --> 00:11:00,569
Hello, sweetheart.
216
00:11:00,569 --> 00:11:01,580
(clicking tongue)
217
00:11:01,580 --> 00:11:05,133
Hi Charlie. That was a
lovely munching kind of kiss.
218
00:11:08,630 --> 00:11:09,480
Come, sweetheart.
219
00:11:12,560 --> 00:11:15,482
So soft, it's like
leading a cloud behind me.
220
00:11:15,482 --> 00:11:16,410
The thing about these animals
221
00:11:16,410 --> 00:11:18,500
is that we're used to sight of them.
222
00:11:18,500 --> 00:11:20,160
We all know what a camel looks like,
223
00:11:20,160 --> 00:11:22,300
and we see them on Christmas cards,
224
00:11:22,300 --> 00:11:23,850
and we see them at the zoo, I suppose,
225
00:11:23,850 --> 00:11:26,590
but real-life camels
in their own countries
226
00:11:26,590 --> 00:11:29,986
it's just fantastic.
227
00:11:29,986 --> 00:11:32,819
(clicking tongue)
228
00:11:33,660 --> 00:11:35,156
They're so huge, you see.
229
00:11:35,156 --> 00:11:36,520
They're so unexpected.
230
00:11:36,520 --> 00:11:38,790
Everything about them is thrilling,
231
00:11:38,790 --> 00:11:40,980
and I've watched the way
that they settle down.
232
00:11:40,980 --> 00:11:42,550
Do you know those knives
called Leathermans,
233
00:11:42,550 --> 00:11:44,330
which all kind of fold in like that?
234
00:11:44,330 --> 00:11:45,630
That's how a camel lies down.
235
00:11:45,630 --> 00:11:46,960
It seems to take its time,
236
00:11:46,960 --> 00:11:49,383
and everything folds up neatly like that.
237
00:11:51,900 --> 00:11:55,710
It's Ramadan, so most people
are fasting during the day.
238
00:11:55,710 --> 00:11:58,300
Out of respect, I've decided to join them,
239
00:11:58,300 --> 00:11:59,963
and not eat again until sunset.
240
00:12:01,140 --> 00:12:03,150
Well, the camels are eating
because that's sensible,
241
00:12:03,150 --> 00:12:05,330
but I'm not having breakfast,
242
00:12:05,330 --> 00:12:06,591
but I should share to you something,
243
00:12:06,591 --> 00:12:09,260
I practically never have breakfast anyway.
244
00:12:09,260 --> 00:12:12,790
And I quite often don't have lunch.
245
00:12:12,790 --> 00:12:15,760
So can you see how my fast
is going to be a total fraud?
246
00:12:15,760 --> 00:12:17,000
I keep pretending I'm a theater person,
247
00:12:17,000 --> 00:12:18,360
but I mean I have done loads of plays,
248
00:12:18,360 --> 00:12:21,020
but often theater people
eat after the show,
249
00:12:21,020 --> 00:12:22,254
so quite often the first meal I get
250
00:12:22,254 --> 00:12:24,420
is at 10:30 or 11:00, in any case.
251
00:12:24,420 --> 00:12:26,510
So, you know what I mean?
252
00:12:26,510 --> 00:12:27,693
Easy-peasy.
253
00:12:29,631 --> 00:12:30,630
(camel growling)
254
00:12:30,630 --> 00:12:31,890
It's okay, Charlie. It's me.
255
00:12:31,890 --> 00:12:33,411
That's you saying good morning.
256
00:12:33,411 --> 00:12:35,246
(camel growls)
257
00:12:35,246 --> 00:12:37,430
(playful music)
258
00:12:37,430 --> 00:12:38,263
Thank you.
259
00:12:40,060 --> 00:12:42,010
Charlie Brown's looking
to see where Mahmoud is.
260
00:12:42,010 --> 00:12:43,160
That's rather touching.
261
00:12:48,380 --> 00:12:49,213
Come, Charlie.
262
00:12:57,360 --> 00:12:59,900
These are the Ramadan
equivalent of Christmas lights
263
00:12:59,900 --> 00:13:00,923
in Oxford street.
264
00:13:06,460 --> 00:13:08,993
Good morning, ladies. Salaam.
265
00:13:09,946 --> 00:13:10,779
- [Woman] Hello!
266
00:13:10,779 --> 00:13:11,612
- Hello!
267
00:13:15,910 --> 00:13:17,000
Extraordinary how quiet it is.
268
00:13:17,000 --> 00:13:19,480
If you're riding a horse,
you get a sort of clip-clop.
269
00:13:19,480 --> 00:13:21,130
With a camel it's just a quiet,
270
00:13:21,130 --> 00:13:24,710
surging, pounding softness.
271
00:13:24,710 --> 00:13:27,303
Quiet as mice, you actually
can't hear their footsteps.
272
00:13:33,600 --> 00:13:36,990
This looks terrifying,
but it's sail before steam
273
00:13:36,990 --> 00:13:38,490
for these ships of the desert.
274
00:13:39,750 --> 00:13:41,134
Thanks guys.
275
00:13:41,134 --> 00:13:43,013
I think you probably stop for a camel.
276
00:13:45,270 --> 00:13:47,700
There are over a hundred
pyramids in Egypt,
277
00:13:47,700 --> 00:13:50,918
but the ones in Giza are
the most famous of all.
278
00:13:50,918 --> 00:13:55,918
(mystical music)
(camels clicking)
279
00:14:19,630 --> 00:14:23,970
The largest, the Great Pyramid,
took 20 years to build,
280
00:14:23,970 --> 00:14:27,273
and is constructed with over
2 million blocks of stone.
281
00:14:32,670 --> 00:14:36,340
Over 4000 years later, they still stand,
282
00:14:36,340 --> 00:14:39,830
a magnificent symbol of
the might of ancient Egypt,
283
00:14:39,830 --> 00:14:41,713
and the power of those who ruled.
284
00:14:42,770 --> 00:14:44,193
Wow, it's so busy!
285
00:14:48,005 --> 00:14:49,680
Mind you, I'm not sure what the pharaohs
286
00:14:49,680 --> 00:14:50,880
would think of us today.
287
00:14:53,351 --> 00:14:54,434
Hey, come on!
288
00:14:55,339 --> 00:14:57,922
(camel growls)
289
00:15:02,158 --> 00:15:04,010
The thing that strikes
me, is that here we are,
290
00:15:04,010 --> 00:15:08,060
we're just on sand, but where
did all this stone come from
291
00:15:08,060 --> 00:15:09,970
to build these massive structures,
292
00:15:09,970 --> 00:15:11,200
which have lasted for so long?
293
00:15:11,200 --> 00:15:14,350
- Well, Joanna, the stones
actually came from two sites.
294
00:15:14,350 --> 00:15:15,740
The core of the pyramid would come
295
00:15:15,740 --> 00:15:17,966
from the local quarry here,
296
00:15:17,966 --> 00:15:21,110
but then it was covered
with fine limestone,
297
00:15:21,110 --> 00:15:22,690
and that fine limestone had to come
298
00:15:22,690 --> 00:15:26,230
from further back, and
the only way it could come
299
00:15:26,230 --> 00:15:27,470
was through the Nile.
300
00:15:27,470 --> 00:15:29,740
- But the Nile's miles away from here.
301
00:15:29,740 --> 00:15:31,440
- That's now. That's in modern day.
302
00:15:31,440 --> 00:15:32,273
- Yeah?
303
00:15:32,273 --> 00:15:34,370
- At the time, the Nile was literally
304
00:15:34,370 --> 00:15:36,107
just beyond those pyramids over there.
305
00:15:36,107 --> 00:15:36,940
- [Joanna] Just beyond the pyramids?
306
00:15:36,940 --> 00:15:37,773
- Yeah.
307
00:15:37,773 --> 00:15:40,580
One of the temples down
there is made of red granite,
308
00:15:40,580 --> 00:15:44,040
and red granite comes
all the way from Aswan.
309
00:15:44,040 --> 00:15:44,873
- From Aswan?
310
00:15:44,873 --> 00:15:47,208
- Which is 1000 kilometers to the south.
311
00:15:47,208 --> 00:15:48,041
- Gosh.
312
00:15:48,041 --> 00:15:51,770
- And there are tons and tons
and tons of blocks down there.
313
00:15:51,770 --> 00:15:54,490
The only way they could come over
314
00:15:54,490 --> 00:15:56,210
was the Nile again.
315
00:15:56,210 --> 00:15:57,880
- Extraordinary.
316
00:15:57,880 --> 00:15:59,083
So the Nile ...
317
00:16:00,220 --> 00:16:02,750
brought the pyramids here, really.
318
00:16:02,750 --> 00:16:03,700
- You could say that.
319
00:16:03,700 --> 00:16:04,620
- Kind of.
320
00:16:04,620 --> 00:16:05,453
- Yes, you could say that.
321
00:16:05,453 --> 00:16:06,330
- Well without the Nile,
322
00:16:06,330 --> 00:16:07,800
there wouldn't be the pyramids here.
323
00:16:07,800 --> 00:16:09,188
- Of course.
324
00:16:09,188 --> 00:16:11,938
(mystical music)
325
00:16:12,910 --> 00:16:14,400
- It was only 100 years ago
326
00:16:14,400 --> 00:16:16,690
that the Nile flowed right past the foot
327
00:16:16,690 --> 00:16:18,723
of these massive burial chambers.
328
00:16:21,730 --> 00:16:23,700
Since this photograph was taken,
329
00:16:23,700 --> 00:16:26,800
Cairo has expanded, and what was the river
330
00:16:26,800 --> 00:16:28,203
is now urban sprawl.
331
00:16:29,458 --> 00:16:31,518
(animals bleating)
332
00:16:31,518 --> 00:16:33,650
It's just about 3:00, and we're
about to leave the pyramids
333
00:16:33,650 --> 00:16:34,730
because they're all shutting down,
334
00:16:34,730 --> 00:16:37,330
because it's Ramadan and
they close early today,
335
00:16:37,330 --> 00:16:40,420
and it's been a day of quite
extraordinary splendor.
336
00:16:40,420 --> 00:16:42,520
I think the excitement of
actually traveling here
337
00:16:42,520 --> 00:16:44,183
of riding here on a camel,
338
00:16:45,230 --> 00:16:48,270
was just thrilling, and
this is Charlie Brown
339
00:16:48,270 --> 00:16:50,060
who's the most beautiful
camel in the world.
340
00:16:50,060 --> 00:16:52,880
If I had the money, I would
buy Charlie Brown off Mahmoud.
341
00:16:52,880 --> 00:16:55,150
He'd be delighted to sell him to me.
342
00:16:55,150 --> 00:16:57,260
And to be out in these
great extraordinary sands,
343
00:16:57,260 --> 00:16:59,750
with these pyramids behind us.
344
00:16:59,750 --> 00:17:02,110
One of the seven wonders of the world.
345
00:17:02,110 --> 00:17:04,280
I expect you can name the others.
346
00:17:04,280 --> 00:17:07,380
Unfortunately, because
I'm so hungry, I can't.
347
00:17:07,380 --> 00:17:09,110
(chuckles)
348
00:17:09,110 --> 00:17:09,943
So sorry.
349
00:17:12,810 --> 00:17:15,653
Tonight, I set off on the
next leg of my journey.
350
00:17:18,990 --> 00:17:21,680
Leaving Cairo and the pyramids behind,
351
00:17:21,680 --> 00:17:24,300
I'm gonna take the train south
along the banks of the Nile
352
00:17:24,300 --> 00:17:28,380
for 400 miles, passing
through the exotically-named
353
00:17:28,380 --> 00:17:31,543
Eastern Arabian Desert,
to arrive at Luxor.
354
00:17:38,613 --> 00:17:40,533
A lot of people have asked us
why we're not doing this trip
355
00:17:40,533 --> 00:17:42,800
up the Nile on a boat.
356
00:17:42,800 --> 00:17:44,650
After all, it's a river,
and that's how you travel.
357
00:17:44,650 --> 00:17:47,160
Well the truth of it is
that if it's well over
358
00:17:47,160 --> 00:17:50,620
4000 miles long, it would
take us forever to do it.
359
00:17:50,620 --> 00:17:53,080
So we're going to have to do
this all in bits and pieces,
360
00:17:53,080 --> 00:17:55,090
but just now the night train to Luxor
361
00:17:55,090 --> 00:17:57,940
sounds about as starry
as ways you can travel
362
00:17:57,940 --> 00:18:00,457
into upper Egypt as I can think of.
363
00:18:00,457 --> 00:18:03,790
(train whistle blowing)
364
00:18:05,870 --> 00:18:10,120
When I was very small, my
worst nightmare in the world
365
00:18:10,120 --> 00:18:14,310
was standing beside a
train track like this
366
00:18:14,310 --> 00:18:16,140
on a platform, and a
train would come through
367
00:18:16,140 --> 00:18:19,520
in my dreams, and I'd see
it in the far distance
368
00:18:19,520 --> 00:18:20,680
coming, coming, coming towards me,
369
00:18:20,680 --> 00:18:22,710
and I'd be dragged towards
the edge of the track,
370
00:18:22,710 --> 00:18:23,970
and as it came whamming past,
371
00:18:23,970 --> 00:18:24,810
I could--
372
00:18:24,810 --> 00:18:27,133
like Anna Karenina,
straight into the track.
373
00:18:28,030 --> 00:18:29,700
So it's always a bit of a
moment waiting for trains.
374
00:18:29,700 --> 00:18:30,980
I get really nervous.
375
00:18:30,980 --> 00:18:34,320
I don't know why, I find
trains really frightening.
376
00:18:34,320 --> 00:18:35,820
Freaked out, and quite relaxed.
377
00:18:35,820 --> 00:18:37,543
But just really tense.
378
00:18:43,190 --> 00:18:45,890
To add to my anxieties, the crew foolishly
379
00:18:45,890 --> 00:18:47,830
put me in charge of the tickets
380
00:18:47,830 --> 00:18:49,453
and finding the right carriage.
381
00:18:50,620 --> 00:18:51,973
11126.
382
00:18:57,006 --> 00:18:58,115
- There you are.
- Thank you so much.
383
00:18:58,115 --> 00:18:59,532
- You're welcome.
384
00:19:01,042 --> 00:19:02,520
- Where do I start?
385
00:19:02,520 --> 00:19:03,550
I might just go along here.
386
00:19:03,550 --> 00:19:05,200
Oh, we're going the wrong way now.
387
00:19:05,200 --> 00:19:07,200
Now we're going the right way.
388
00:19:07,200 --> 00:19:09,020
Um, um, um, um ...
389
00:19:09,020 --> 00:19:10,633
Stop flapping.
390
00:19:10,633 --> 00:19:11,466
Could you help me?
391
00:19:11,466 --> 00:19:12,648
Which one's ...
392
00:19:12,648 --> 00:19:13,825
- This is 819.
393
00:19:13,825 --> 00:19:15,240
- So we go right up to the end?
394
00:19:15,240 --> 00:19:16,073
- [Muhammad] Yes, yes, yes.
395
00:19:16,073 --> 00:19:16,960
- You are kind. What is your name?
396
00:19:16,960 --> 00:19:18,072
- My name is Muhammad.
397
00:19:18,072 --> 00:19:18,905
- Muhammad?
- Yes, yes.
398
00:19:18,905 --> 00:19:19,805
- Thank you very much.
399
00:19:19,805 --> 00:19:20,638
- [Muhammad] Not at all, not at all.
400
00:19:20,638 --> 00:19:21,471
- Thank you.
401
00:19:21,471 --> 00:19:22,670
Okay, I'll just go in 87.
402
00:19:24,597 --> 00:19:27,597
And we're gonna let the people pass.
403
00:19:28,895 --> 00:19:29,728
Oh my god.
404
00:19:30,914 --> 00:19:31,850
We're off, look we're traveling!
405
00:19:31,850 --> 00:19:32,950
Look, we're traveling!
406
00:19:36,430 --> 00:19:37,453
Goodbye, Cairo.
407
00:19:39,903 --> 00:19:41,580
Isn't that lovely?
408
00:19:41,580 --> 00:19:44,310
And my next word will be Muhammad,
409
00:19:44,310 --> 00:19:45,530
probably not a tactful thing to ask,
410
00:19:45,530 --> 00:19:47,303
but Muhammad, where is the bar?
411
00:19:48,450 --> 00:19:51,551
I might want to have a
look at the bed, actually.
412
00:19:51,551 --> 00:19:53,460
Just out of curiosity,
I'm not sure how it works.
413
00:19:53,460 --> 00:19:56,810
I have a feeling these things
can suddenly spring down,
414
00:19:56,810 --> 00:19:59,640
and I'm not sure if
there's a release valve.
415
00:19:59,640 --> 00:20:00,473
Okay.
416
00:20:05,350 --> 00:20:07,303
So, that's lovely there. That's lovely.
417
00:20:08,701 --> 00:20:09,534
Good.
418
00:20:09,534 --> 00:20:11,323
Might be something you do
when you've been to the bar.
419
00:20:14,735 --> 00:20:16,430
No, no.
420
00:20:16,430 --> 00:20:18,080
I'll do that much later, I think.
421
00:20:18,940 --> 00:20:20,573
Didn't really want to sleep, anyway.
422
00:20:26,129 --> 00:20:27,690
We're going to the bar.
423
00:20:27,690 --> 00:20:28,640
It's down this way.
424
00:20:32,250 --> 00:20:35,250
My fingers always itch to
tidy these bits up everywhere.
425
00:20:35,250 --> 00:20:36,500
It's the same in England.
426
00:20:37,520 --> 00:20:39,043
Carry my Marigold gloves.
427
00:20:40,070 --> 00:20:42,700
This reminds me of
walking along in a ship,
428
00:20:42,700 --> 00:20:44,230
and when something is
wobbling, the thing to do,
429
00:20:44,230 --> 00:20:45,710
is it doesn't look very pleasant,
430
00:20:45,710 --> 00:20:48,550
but you walk with your feet
slightly apart, like that.
431
00:20:48,550 --> 00:20:50,050
Then you just wobble, it looks as though
432
00:20:50,050 --> 00:20:51,900
you've wet your pants, but it's okay.
433
00:20:53,038 --> 00:20:55,783
And here you'll run at a hell of a pace.
434
00:20:59,670 --> 00:21:00,503
Good evening.
435
00:21:00,503 --> 00:21:01,460
Thank you so much.
436
00:21:01,460 --> 00:21:03,200
What is your name?
437
00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:05,608
- My name is Issa. Issa.
438
00:21:05,608 --> 00:21:06,630
- [Joanna] I'm Joanna.
439
00:21:06,630 --> 00:21:08,161
- Welcome. You're very nice.
440
00:21:08,161 --> 00:21:09,139
- Thank you much indeed.
441
00:21:09,139 --> 00:21:13,593
Issa, may I have a
Luxor, small Luxor beer?
442
00:21:13,593 --> 00:21:14,426
- Yes.
443
00:21:14,426 --> 00:21:16,912
- [Joanna] Is it Luxor, or Luxor?
444
00:21:16,912 --> 00:21:18,032
- Luxor, Luxor.
445
00:21:18,032 --> 00:21:18,865
- Luxor.
446
00:21:19,840 --> 00:21:24,690
Would you say that the
Nile is a man or a woman?
447
00:21:24,690 --> 00:21:28,940
- In Arabic, Nile that's a man.
448
00:21:28,940 --> 00:21:29,908
- It's a man.
449
00:21:29,908 --> 00:21:31,489
- Yeah.
450
00:21:31,489 --> 00:21:32,481
- Mighty man.
451
00:21:32,481 --> 00:21:33,490
(laughs)
452
00:21:33,490 --> 00:21:34,638
Mighty Nile.
453
00:21:34,638 --> 00:21:36,962
- It's strong man.
454
00:21:36,962 --> 00:21:39,003
The Nile for me, everybody in Egypt,
455
00:21:40,000 --> 00:21:44,400
it's very important for the life.
456
00:21:44,400 --> 00:21:45,769
It's for the essence of life.
457
00:21:45,769 --> 00:21:48,186
For the cleaning, for the ...
458
00:21:49,086 --> 00:21:50,392
(speaking foreign language)
459
00:21:50,392 --> 00:21:53,072
- Agriculture?
- Agriculture.
460
00:21:53,072 --> 00:21:55,954
For everything. The Nile.
461
00:21:55,954 --> 00:21:57,997
- It's very important for everyone.
462
00:21:57,997 --> 00:21:58,830
- It is for everybody
in the world, actually.
463
00:21:58,830 --> 00:22:03,830
- Without Nile, impossible
you can live here in Egypt.
464
00:22:03,878 --> 00:22:04,795
Impossible.
465
00:22:07,010 --> 00:22:10,190
- The beer is small compensation
for the frustration I feel
466
00:22:10,190 --> 00:22:12,220
at not being able to see the Nile
467
00:22:12,220 --> 00:22:15,944
as we cling to its banks,
traveling ever southwards.
468
00:22:15,944 --> 00:22:19,110
(train whistle blowing)
469
00:22:19,110 --> 00:22:21,290
Nothing for it but to get some sleep.
470
00:22:21,290 --> 00:22:22,383
Is my bed down?
471
00:22:23,398 --> 00:22:24,773
But first I have to tackle that bed again.
472
00:22:24,773 --> 00:22:26,723
Will you do this? Thank you so much.
473
00:22:36,231 --> 00:22:38,720
(Joanna gasps)
474
00:22:38,720 --> 00:22:39,703
Just like that?
475
00:22:39,703 --> 00:22:41,270
- Two pillows for you.
476
00:22:41,270 --> 00:22:42,490
- [Joanna] Two pillows for me?
477
00:22:42,490 --> 00:22:43,323
- [Muhammad] Yes.
478
00:22:44,170 --> 00:22:45,610
- [Joanna] Oh, that looks
wonderful, Muhammad.
479
00:22:45,610 --> 00:22:46,579
Thank you so much.
480
00:22:46,579 --> 00:22:47,412
- Not to worry.
481
00:22:47,412 --> 00:22:48,960
- [Joanna] And in the
morning, will you wake me up?
482
00:22:48,960 --> 00:22:49,872
- [Muhammad] Yes, yes.
483
00:22:49,872 --> 00:22:50,705
- [Joanna] Thank you very much.
484
00:22:50,705 --> 00:22:51,538
- [Muhammad] Not at all. Here you are.
485
00:22:51,538 --> 00:22:52,371
- [Joanna] Thank you.
486
00:22:52,371 --> 00:22:53,204
- [Muhammad] Good night.
487
00:22:53,204 --> 00:22:54,880
- Good night.
488
00:22:54,880 --> 00:22:56,320
First of all, I'm gonna turn on the music.
489
00:22:56,320 --> 00:22:57,870
I'd like you to hear the music.
490
00:23:03,558 --> 00:23:05,420
(soft jazz music)
491
00:23:05,420 --> 00:23:07,770
So, I could sleep with
my head just pressed ...
492
00:23:08,660 --> 00:23:09,493
It's gone very quiet.
493
00:23:09,493 --> 00:23:11,350
This is as loud as it gets.
494
00:23:11,350 --> 00:23:12,873
I might take off my shoes.
495
00:23:15,230 --> 00:23:17,470
Incidentally, if you don't
want the ghosts to come in,
496
00:23:17,470 --> 00:23:20,523
first thing you do is you
keep this shut covered.
497
00:23:21,530 --> 00:23:24,173
And put your shoes facing outwards.
498
00:23:25,010 --> 00:23:27,200
Then the ghosts can't walk into your bed
499
00:23:27,200 --> 00:23:28,297
with bad dreams.
500
00:23:29,182 --> 00:23:30,742
One, two, three.
501
00:23:30,742 --> 00:23:33,159
(jazz music)
502
00:23:38,164 --> 00:23:41,164
(adventurous music)
503
00:23:59,905 --> 00:24:01,803
Oh, Muhammad, coffee. Thank you so much.
504
00:24:01,803 --> 00:24:02,636
- Not at all.
505
00:24:02,636 --> 00:24:03,803
- That's lovely.
- Sugar?
506
00:24:03,803 --> 00:24:04,853
- I think I'll just have it like this.
507
00:24:04,853 --> 00:24:07,603
Thank you so much.
- That's okay.
508
00:24:08,846 --> 00:24:09,700
- Most people I've talked to
509
00:24:09,700 --> 00:24:12,173
are sort of half in love with this river,
510
00:24:13,110 --> 00:24:14,880
and they all say when you
see it, when you see it.
511
00:24:14,880 --> 00:24:16,117
Which of course we have seen it,
512
00:24:16,117 --> 00:24:18,098
but I suspect what they're talking about
513
00:24:18,098 --> 00:24:22,310
is not the Nile at Alexandria, at Rosetta,
514
00:24:22,310 --> 00:24:23,960
I think it's probably the Nile
515
00:24:23,960 --> 00:24:25,800
as she goes into upper Egypt,
516
00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:27,090
right about Luxor.
517
00:24:27,090 --> 00:24:29,990
That's where people go and sit for days
518
00:24:29,990 --> 00:24:31,840
and stare and dream and write poetry.
519
00:24:35,070 --> 00:24:37,470
I long for us just to see
a glimpse out of here.
520
00:24:42,990 --> 00:24:45,530
This is the Egypt I used to think of
521
00:24:45,530 --> 00:24:48,380
aboard that troop ship as we
came up through the Red Sea.
522
00:24:51,551 --> 00:24:52,468
Look there.
523
00:24:53,771 --> 00:24:56,187
This is the Nile. This
is the beautiful Nile.
524
00:24:56,187 --> 00:24:58,937
(mystical music)
525
00:25:08,210 --> 00:25:12,200
In Luxor, I'm greeted by the
massive statues of Memnon,
526
00:25:12,200 --> 00:25:15,080
the rulers of dawn, which is rather apt,
527
00:25:15,080 --> 00:25:17,020
as we've arrived here very early.
528
00:25:20,080 --> 00:25:22,660
From here, the pharaohs
ruled ancient Egypt
529
00:25:22,660 --> 00:25:24,533
for over 1000 years.
530
00:25:26,670 --> 00:25:28,740
At one end of the town, Luxor boasts
531
00:25:28,740 --> 00:25:31,283
the largest religious temple ever built.
532
00:25:32,740 --> 00:25:33,573
Karnak.
533
00:25:38,860 --> 00:25:41,290
At the other end, the
most famous pharaoh of all
534
00:25:41,290 --> 00:25:44,220
King Tutankhamen, had a hand in rebuilding
535
00:25:44,220 --> 00:25:46,063
the glorious temple of Luxor.
536
00:25:50,050 --> 00:25:52,110
Today, however, Luxor is the center
537
00:25:52,110 --> 00:25:55,373
of the hugely popular
Nile cruise industry.
538
00:25:56,750 --> 00:25:59,270
It's been going since 1869,
539
00:25:59,270 --> 00:26:01,960
when a young, adventurous
man from Derbyshire,
540
00:26:01,960 --> 00:26:05,640
Thomas Cook, organized the
first of what was to become
541
00:26:05,640 --> 00:26:07,493
an enduring tourist attraction.
542
00:26:08,380 --> 00:26:09,580
I wonder what it's like.
543
00:26:10,510 --> 00:26:11,571
Salaam.
544
00:26:11,571 --> 00:26:12,404
- Hello.
545
00:26:12,404 --> 00:26:13,493
- Joanna Lumley.
546
00:26:15,960 --> 00:26:16,793
- [Man] This is your key.
547
00:26:16,793 --> 00:26:17,783
- [Joanna] Shukran, thank you.
548
00:26:17,783 --> 00:26:18,616
- You're welcome.
549
00:26:18,616 --> 00:26:20,770
- 307. Look at this.
550
00:26:20,770 --> 00:26:22,230
This is fantastic.
551
00:26:22,230 --> 00:26:25,430
It's really big and
spacious, and beautiful,
552
00:26:25,430 --> 00:26:27,853
on the Nile Commodore, that's our name.
553
00:26:29,259 --> 00:26:31,233
This really is the way
to travel, you know.
554
00:26:32,440 --> 00:26:33,490
Isn't that beautiful?
555
00:26:36,687 --> 00:26:38,139
Hot.
556
00:26:38,139 --> 00:26:43,139
Hot, hot, hot.
557
00:26:46,020 --> 00:26:46,860
How still.
558
00:26:46,860 --> 00:26:48,350
So even though we're sort of cutting along
559
00:26:48,350 --> 00:26:50,830
through the water, look
how still for the flags,
560
00:26:50,830 --> 00:26:52,163
they're hardly moving.
561
00:26:55,010 --> 00:26:56,180
The decks are painted green.
562
00:26:56,180 --> 00:26:57,013
The floor's green.
563
00:26:57,013 --> 00:26:58,500
It's a very nice livery, this boat.
564
00:26:58,500 --> 00:27:01,463
Very grand and beautiful.
565
00:27:03,380 --> 00:27:05,040
This is really a gorgeous
way of traveling,
566
00:27:05,040 --> 00:27:07,200
you can hear how quiet the boat is,
567
00:27:07,200 --> 00:27:08,760
so you have a sense of just slipping
568
00:27:08,760 --> 00:27:09,860
through the landscape.
569
00:27:12,180 --> 00:27:14,290
I don't know what I thought
a Nile cruise would be like.
570
00:27:14,290 --> 00:27:18,573
I thought maybe it would be
much rowdier, much bigger.
571
00:27:20,920 --> 00:27:22,210
Much more sort of bossed about,
572
00:27:22,210 --> 00:27:24,000
but this is absolutely gorgeous,
573
00:27:24,000 --> 00:27:26,580
people I've seen sitting
quietly reading at tables
574
00:27:26,580 --> 00:27:27,640
or having a drink.
575
00:27:27,640 --> 00:27:29,190
It's not like one of those giant ships.
576
00:27:29,190 --> 00:27:30,800
These are small boats.
577
00:27:30,800 --> 00:27:32,300
Agatha Christie kind of boats.
578
00:27:33,360 --> 00:27:35,427
I think Britain's been in
love with Egypt and the Nile
579
00:27:35,427 --> 00:27:37,390
for quite a long time,
and I wonder if that came
580
00:27:37,390 --> 00:27:41,310
from the passion for Egyptology
that arose in the 1920s,
581
00:27:41,310 --> 00:27:42,820
and since then people have longed,
582
00:27:42,820 --> 00:27:45,890
particularly doing the great
tour of the Mediterranean,
583
00:27:45,890 --> 00:27:49,640
but to go on the Nile, this
was just something fantastic.
584
00:27:49,640 --> 00:27:51,360
So it's lovely to think that these cruises
585
00:27:51,360 --> 00:27:52,650
are keeping the river alive,
586
00:27:52,650 --> 00:27:55,723
because there's not much fishing going on.
587
00:27:58,060 --> 00:27:59,840
They're bringing money into the country,
588
00:27:59,840 --> 00:28:02,742
they're giving immense pleasure
to people from overseas.
589
00:28:02,742 --> 00:28:06,409
(people shouting excitedly)
590
00:28:12,320 --> 00:28:13,920
It's pretty unspoiled, isn't it?
591
00:28:15,687 --> 00:28:18,437
(mystical music)
592
00:28:51,646 --> 00:28:54,060
I could stare at the riverbank forever,
593
00:28:54,060 --> 00:28:56,543
dreaming of life as an ancient Egyptian.
594
00:28:58,370 --> 00:29:02,626
But why dream, when below
decks I can actually be one?
595
00:29:02,626 --> 00:29:07,626
(lively music)
(rhythmic clapping)
596
00:29:08,410 --> 00:29:10,980
This is Ancient Egypt Night,
597
00:29:10,980 --> 00:29:13,773
a fine tradition on Nile cruise ships.
598
00:29:22,690 --> 00:29:23,760
It's nice trying on clothes
599
00:29:23,760 --> 00:29:25,793
through the middle of the concourse.
600
00:29:31,250 --> 00:29:33,010
I think that's lovely.
601
00:29:33,010 --> 00:29:34,100
Oh, okay.
602
00:29:34,100 --> 00:29:34,933
Oh, show me how.
603
00:29:47,390 --> 00:29:50,043
Well, this is suspiciously
like a bathing hat.
604
00:29:51,650 --> 00:29:53,250
I love it. I love it on other people.
605
00:29:53,250 --> 00:29:55,090
But somehow I look, this is the look
606
00:29:55,090 --> 00:29:57,220
that terrified me most
of all as a young person.
607
00:29:57,220 --> 00:29:58,980
In fact when I was a
model, the things that,
608
00:29:58,980 --> 00:29:59,813
oh, what's that?
609
00:29:59,813 --> 00:30:00,700
That's nicer.
610
00:30:00,700 --> 00:30:01,910
When I was a model, the things I really
611
00:30:01,910 --> 00:30:02,910
dreaded wearing were berets.
612
00:30:02,910 --> 00:30:05,050
I just to try to get
out of the beret shots.
613
00:30:05,050 --> 00:30:06,757
I like a bit of a ...
614
00:30:06,757 --> 00:30:08,010
But maybe I'm coming around to it.
615
00:30:08,010 --> 00:30:09,475
What do you think?
616
00:30:09,475 --> 00:30:13,142
(people shouting excitedly)
617
00:30:16,375 --> 00:30:18,625
(laughing)
618
00:30:29,063 --> 00:30:30,770
Bit bathing hat again, but there we are.
619
00:30:30,770 --> 00:30:31,610
Might get something,
620
00:30:31,610 --> 00:30:32,613
something might ...
621
00:30:35,630 --> 00:30:37,370
It's sort of something to
do with having a huge face
622
00:30:37,370 --> 00:30:38,423
and a huge mouth.
623
00:30:49,700 --> 00:30:50,800
I've got to have help.
624
00:30:52,640 --> 00:30:53,740
You've got to tell me.
625
00:30:54,690 --> 00:30:56,290
I think this one might be nicer.
626
00:30:56,290 --> 00:30:57,410
I think this is better?
627
00:30:57,410 --> 00:30:58,243
Uh-huh?
628
00:30:58,243 --> 00:30:59,100
It's better for me?
629
00:30:59,100 --> 00:31:00,535
- This one's better.
630
00:31:00,535 --> 00:31:03,618
(upbeat dance music)
631
00:31:04,470 --> 00:31:06,520
- [Joanna] Ancient Egypt
Night wouldn't be complete
632
00:31:06,520 --> 00:31:08,763
without making a mummy of your husband.
633
00:31:17,694 --> 00:31:20,080
(applauding)
634
00:31:20,080 --> 00:31:21,960
That's very good bandaging, isn't it?
635
00:31:21,960 --> 00:31:22,793
Look how neat that is.
636
00:31:22,793 --> 00:31:23,898
- [Woman] Yes.
637
00:31:25,290 --> 00:31:27,490
- [Joanna] This one's
lovely. Love this one.
638
00:31:29,130 --> 00:31:30,290
- [Man] Time, please.
639
00:31:31,425 --> 00:31:33,279
(people cheering)
640
00:31:33,279 --> 00:31:34,510
- [Man] We need your help.
641
00:31:34,510 --> 00:31:35,933
So you are our judge.
642
00:31:37,390 --> 00:31:39,330
Joanna, would you please
come to help as well?
643
00:31:39,330 --> 00:31:40,306
- Thank you.
644
00:31:40,306 --> 00:31:41,465
- [Woman] Joanna? That's not fair.
645
00:31:41,465 --> 00:31:42,298
- It's not fair.
646
00:31:42,298 --> 00:31:44,170
- [Man] So you are the judge,
647
00:31:44,170 --> 00:31:45,807
you want to tell us who the winner
648
00:31:45,807 --> 00:31:48,110
out of these four mummies, please?
649
00:31:48,110 --> 00:31:50,320
- We think this is adorable.
650
00:31:50,320 --> 00:31:51,210
- Absolutely.
651
00:31:51,210 --> 00:31:52,940
- It's wonderful. It's completely bound.
652
00:31:52,940 --> 00:31:54,080
It's completely mummified.
653
00:31:54,080 --> 00:31:55,110
Little bit of the head showing.
654
00:31:55,110 --> 00:31:56,490
- [Caroline] Actually,
if it's a man in there,
655
00:31:56,490 --> 00:31:57,420
then fantastic.
656
00:31:57,420 --> 00:31:59,745
Even better because it's
right across the mouth.
657
00:31:59,745 --> 00:32:02,000
(laughing)
658
00:32:02,000 --> 00:32:03,270
- This is very good, impressive.
659
00:32:03,270 --> 00:32:04,710
This is very good bandaging right here.
660
00:32:04,710 --> 00:32:06,265
- [Caroline] Actually,
yeah. That is very good.
661
00:32:06,265 --> 00:32:07,098
- That's beautifully done.
662
00:32:07,098 --> 00:32:08,113
But this is pretty impressive, isn't it?
663
00:32:08,113 --> 00:32:09,470
- I think this is probably---
664
00:32:09,470 --> 00:32:10,303
- The winner?
665
00:32:11,540 --> 00:32:12,373
- Yeah.
666
00:32:12,373 --> 00:32:13,343
- We think that's the winner.
667
00:32:13,343 --> 00:32:14,176
- [Caroline] This one.
668
00:32:14,176 --> 00:32:15,353
(people cheering)
669
00:32:15,353 --> 00:32:17,592
(applauding)
670
00:32:17,592 --> 00:32:18,425
- Well done, man. Oh wow.
671
00:32:21,716 --> 00:32:24,466
(waves crashing)
672
00:32:43,410 --> 00:32:45,260
The next morning, after coping
673
00:32:45,260 --> 00:32:47,270
with a lack of lavatory paper,
674
00:32:47,270 --> 00:32:48,770
I catch up with my fellow judge
675
00:32:48,770 --> 00:32:50,347
Caroline Forrest.
676
00:32:50,347 --> 00:32:51,180
- Cheers.
677
00:32:51,180 --> 00:32:52,013
- Cheers.
678
00:32:52,013 --> 00:32:54,403
This is not vodka, just
in case you think it is.
679
00:32:55,270 --> 00:32:57,520
It turns out that Caroline
has a bit of an obsession
680
00:32:57,520 --> 00:32:58,630
with the Nile.
681
00:32:58,630 --> 00:33:00,883
She's been here over 20 times.
682
00:33:02,620 --> 00:33:04,550
What made you come to Egypt?
683
00:33:04,550 --> 00:33:06,926
- I'd always wanted to
come since I was a child.
684
00:33:06,926 --> 00:33:08,820
You know, you read in books,
685
00:33:08,820 --> 00:33:11,340
and you do courses at school about it,
686
00:33:11,340 --> 00:33:14,050
and it just held a mystery,
687
00:33:14,050 --> 00:33:17,610
and it was going to be
the only time we came.
688
00:33:17,610 --> 00:33:18,660
It was going to be--
689
00:33:18,660 --> 00:33:19,493
- The one of.
690
00:33:19,493 --> 00:33:20,326
- The one of, yes.
691
00:33:20,326 --> 00:33:22,130
- So you didn't think that's Egypt done?
692
00:33:22,130 --> 00:33:22,963
- [Caroline] No.
693
00:33:22,963 --> 00:33:24,240
- You caught like a bug?
694
00:33:24,240 --> 00:33:25,520
- I think so, yeah.
695
00:33:25,520 --> 00:33:26,700
And it's very easy to catch,
696
00:33:26,700 --> 00:33:29,410
because lots of people
come again and again.
697
00:33:29,410 --> 00:33:31,030
- And what is it about the Nile, Caroline,
698
00:33:31,030 --> 00:33:33,470
what is it about cruising on this river?
699
00:33:33,470 --> 00:33:34,750
- [Caroline] The Nile's wonderful.
700
00:33:34,750 --> 00:33:36,460
You never know what you're going to see
701
00:33:36,460 --> 00:33:38,170
from one day to the next.
702
00:33:38,170 --> 00:33:40,600
Always, the scenery's changing.
703
00:33:40,600 --> 00:33:42,110
- Do you always come back to this boat?
704
00:33:42,110 --> 00:33:43,340
- Always this boat.
705
00:33:43,340 --> 00:33:44,260
We're friends now.
706
00:33:44,260 --> 00:33:47,050
It's not just, I'm not just a guest,
707
00:33:47,050 --> 00:33:48,391
I'm family.
708
00:33:48,391 --> 00:33:49,224
- [Joanna] You're family.
709
00:33:49,224 --> 00:33:50,057
- Yeah.
710
00:33:50,057 --> 00:33:51,208
- You'd like to just be
on the Nile, wouldn't you?
711
00:33:51,208 --> 00:33:52,290
- [Caroline] Yes, I would.
712
00:33:52,290 --> 00:33:54,320
Yes, it's a lovely river.
713
00:33:54,320 --> 00:33:56,583
- People could come here and visit you.
714
00:33:56,583 --> 00:33:58,700
You could be Queen
Caroline, queen of the Nile
715
00:33:58,700 --> 00:33:59,533
on your own boat.
716
00:33:59,533 --> 00:34:00,366
- That's what my husband calls me.
717
00:34:00,366 --> 00:34:01,199
(laughing)
- Does he?
718
00:34:01,199 --> 00:34:02,032
Queen Caroline?
719
00:34:02,032 --> 00:34:03,164
- [Caroline] Yeah.
720
00:34:03,164 --> 00:34:03,997
(laughing)
721
00:34:03,997 --> 00:34:05,130
- Caroline, thank you so much.
722
00:34:05,130 --> 00:34:06,510
A drink to you in water.
723
00:34:06,510 --> 00:34:07,820
Or should we admit it neat vodka?
724
00:34:07,820 --> 00:34:09,260
- Oh, go with it.
(glasses clinking)
725
00:34:09,260 --> 00:34:10,093
- [Joanna] Thank you.
726
00:34:10,093 --> 00:34:10,960
- I'll have gin, though.
727
00:34:10,960 --> 00:34:12,364
(laughing)
728
00:34:12,364 --> 00:34:15,114
(mystical music)
729
00:34:21,516 --> 00:34:22,820
- Have I ever mentioned that the Nile
730
00:34:22,820 --> 00:34:25,963
is the only major river to
flow from south to north?
731
00:34:27,030 --> 00:34:28,750
It's an odd geographical fact,
732
00:34:28,750 --> 00:34:31,860
but most rivers in the world
generally flow the other way,
733
00:34:31,860 --> 00:34:35,167
downhill, if you like,
from north to south.
734
00:34:35,167 --> 00:34:36,950
So it's taken me a while
to get used to the fact
735
00:34:36,950 --> 00:34:39,170
that even though we're
traveling down the map,
736
00:34:39,170 --> 00:34:40,683
we're going up the Nile.
737
00:34:42,880 --> 00:34:44,580
It's all very confusing.
738
00:34:44,580 --> 00:34:48,353
But thankfully, not for this
man, Sayed Kamel, our captain.
739
00:34:49,720 --> 00:34:52,493
Is the Nile an easy river to navigate?
740
00:35:07,940 --> 00:35:12,523
- Now we see we've got--
(horn honking)
741
00:35:21,544 --> 00:35:23,660
(people shouting)
742
00:35:23,660 --> 00:35:27,913
- Why are we turning now,
steering to the left?
743
00:35:36,890 --> 00:35:38,690
It's very lucky I'm
not piloting this boat,
744
00:35:38,690 --> 00:35:40,030
because I can't see this island.
745
00:35:40,030 --> 00:35:43,440
I can see some little tiny
boats, fishing and smashing
746
00:35:43,440 --> 00:35:45,990
their poles in the water,
which is what they do,
747
00:35:45,990 --> 00:35:47,530
and then another cruise ship ahead,
748
00:35:47,530 --> 00:35:48,950
which has gone sharply to the left,
749
00:35:48,950 --> 00:35:50,740
so clearly we're going around,
750
00:35:50,740 --> 00:35:52,910
which must be, an island must be
751
00:35:52,910 --> 00:35:54,850
more like a sand bank, maybe.
752
00:35:54,850 --> 00:35:56,343
A very high sand bank.
753
00:35:58,543 --> 00:36:00,793
(laughing)
754
00:36:03,930 --> 00:36:06,800
On my journey along the
Nile, it's been impossible
755
00:36:06,800 --> 00:36:10,233
to ignore the date palms,
which fringe the riverbanks.
756
00:36:15,540 --> 00:36:18,320
It's September, and time for harvest,
757
00:36:18,320 --> 00:36:21,766
so I've come to meet date
farmer, Muhammad Arra.
758
00:36:21,766 --> 00:36:22,599
- Hello!
759
00:36:22,599 --> 00:36:23,432
- You need dates?
760
00:36:23,432 --> 00:36:24,310
- [Joanna] Hello, darling. Hello.
761
00:36:24,310 --> 00:36:27,086
(speaking foreign language)
762
00:36:27,086 --> 00:36:28,297
- These are very good for eating?
763
00:36:28,297 --> 00:36:31,219
- Very good, yes. Very lovely. Sweet.
764
00:36:31,219 --> 00:36:32,052
- [Joanna] Sweet?
765
00:36:32,052 --> 00:36:32,885
- [Muhammad] Yes, sweet.
766
00:36:32,885 --> 00:36:33,988
- Well, they look pretty high up.
767
00:36:33,988 --> 00:36:36,190
(speaking foreign language)
768
00:36:36,190 --> 00:36:37,023
Extraordinary.
769
00:36:37,023 --> 00:36:39,990
Just climbing up a tree
without any branches,
770
00:36:39,990 --> 00:36:42,833
but obviously the spiky
bits of the date palm.
771
00:36:47,810 --> 00:36:49,410
Now he's got a huge sharp knife.
772
00:36:54,300 --> 00:36:55,240
Wow!
773
00:36:55,240 --> 00:36:56,217
- [Girl] Wow!
774
00:36:56,217 --> 00:36:57,919
- Wow! (laughing)
775
00:36:57,919 --> 00:36:59,336
- [All] Wow! Wow!
776
00:37:01,018 --> 00:37:02,435
(speaking foreign language)
777
00:37:02,435 --> 00:37:03,455
- [Muhammad] Want a taste, madame?
778
00:37:03,455 --> 00:37:04,872
- Oh yes, please.
779
00:37:09,513 --> 00:37:10,850
They're beautiful.
780
00:37:10,850 --> 00:37:12,670
They're sweet, but
because they're not dried,
781
00:37:12,670 --> 00:37:15,353
they're not like the
dates at Christmastime,
782
00:37:16,418 --> 00:37:18,540
got a white middle there.
783
00:37:18,540 --> 00:37:20,690
Just completely delicious.
784
00:37:20,690 --> 00:37:22,130
So I imagine these will be the very ones
785
00:37:22,130 --> 00:37:24,660
that I guess are dried and
packed into those boxes
786
00:37:24,660 --> 00:37:26,990
with a fake, do you remember
in the middle of the box,
787
00:37:26,990 --> 00:37:28,210
there's always something like that,
788
00:37:28,210 --> 00:37:31,040
which is made of plastic,
and I always used to wonder
789
00:37:31,040 --> 00:37:32,310
why it was wobbly.
790
00:37:32,310 --> 00:37:34,700
It's just a beautiful plastic copy
791
00:37:36,090 --> 00:37:38,103
of a little date palm twig.
792
00:37:39,420 --> 00:37:42,170
But dates aren't just for Christmas.
793
00:37:42,170 --> 00:37:44,780
During Ramadan, the date
is the first food taken
794
00:37:44,780 --> 00:37:46,023
to break the fast.
795
00:37:46,890 --> 00:37:49,170
And at Easter, Christians use the leaves
796
00:37:49,170 --> 00:37:50,783
to celebrate Palm Sunday.
797
00:38:08,910 --> 00:38:11,910
Having left the luxury of
the cruise ship in Luxor,
798
00:38:11,910 --> 00:38:14,903
I'm heading to Egypt's
southernmost town, Aswan.
799
00:38:21,680 --> 00:38:24,440
To take us there, Ramy
and I are hitching a lift
800
00:38:24,440 --> 00:38:28,585
on a felucca barge, a
traditional form of transport.
801
00:38:28,585 --> 00:38:31,373
Salaam. Salaam.
- Hello.
802
00:38:31,373 --> 00:38:34,373
(adventurous music)
803
00:38:50,140 --> 00:38:52,640
- Captain Abdul Aziz and his crew
804
00:38:52,640 --> 00:38:56,200
transport stone and building
materials along the Nile,
805
00:38:56,200 --> 00:38:59,433
just as the ancient
Egyptians did 4000 years ago.
806
00:39:00,520 --> 00:39:01,353
Ramy?
807
00:39:01,353 --> 00:39:02,246
- [Ramy] Yes?
808
00:39:02,246 --> 00:39:03,079
- I want to ask a question
809
00:39:03,079 --> 00:39:04,022
of Mr. Abdul Aziz.
810
00:39:04,022 --> 00:39:07,748
Is this wind quite constant on the Nile?
811
00:39:07,748 --> 00:39:11,415
(speaking foreign language)
812
00:39:13,347 --> 00:39:15,440
- It's always perfect, he says.
813
00:39:15,440 --> 00:39:19,221
- So it always blows the boats upstream?
814
00:39:19,221 --> 00:39:22,998
(speaking foreign language)
815
00:39:22,998 --> 00:39:24,850
They come with the current downstream?
816
00:39:24,850 --> 00:39:25,683
- Exactly.
817
00:39:25,683 --> 00:39:28,460
It comes with the current
downstream, and the wind upstream.
818
00:39:28,460 --> 00:39:29,500
- [Joanna] Very good.
819
00:39:29,500 --> 00:39:33,360
(speaking foreign language)
820
00:39:33,360 --> 00:39:35,250
- He's telling you that
he's been here on this Nile
821
00:39:35,250 --> 00:39:36,433
for 56 years.
822
00:39:38,220 --> 00:39:39,764
- You were a baby.
823
00:39:39,764 --> 00:39:43,180
(speaking foreign language)
824
00:39:43,180 --> 00:39:45,903
- [Ramy] He used to work
with his father 56 years ago.
825
00:39:47,470 --> 00:39:50,290
- Is this the way that
the stones came down
826
00:39:50,290 --> 00:39:51,300
for the pyramids?
827
00:39:51,300 --> 00:39:52,423
On a boat like this?
828
00:40:16,760 --> 00:40:18,710
Do you have any stories about the Nile?
829
00:40:32,235 --> 00:40:33,068
Haunted?
830
00:40:45,228 --> 00:40:46,061
Scary.
831
00:40:51,958 --> 00:40:54,375
What do the demons look like?
832
00:41:18,800 --> 00:41:20,360
That's frightening though
to think of a demon,
833
00:41:20,360 --> 00:41:23,870
because without knowing,
it's the same old devil
834
00:41:23,870 --> 00:41:27,160
with little hooves, although
these are donkey's hooves,
835
00:41:27,160 --> 00:41:28,380
so they're not split.
836
00:41:28,380 --> 00:41:30,000
Usually it's cloven hooves,
837
00:41:30,000 --> 00:41:32,650
but it's the eyes that are
the giveaway of the devil.
838
00:41:35,650 --> 00:41:36,623
It's the eyes.
839
00:41:41,450 --> 00:41:42,863
Do you have a mobile phone?
840
00:41:45,850 --> 00:41:47,954
Will you call me when you see a demon?
841
00:41:47,954 --> 00:41:51,360
(speaking foreign language)
842
00:41:51,360 --> 00:41:54,528
I'll come and sort that demon out for you.
843
00:41:54,528 --> 00:41:56,778
(laughing)
844
00:41:58,439 --> 00:42:01,189
(mystical music)
845
00:42:07,044 --> 00:42:08,190
I'm beginning to get the idea
846
00:42:08,190 --> 00:42:10,060
that beneath the peaceful surface,
847
00:42:10,060 --> 00:42:12,660
this river runs far deeper than I thought.
848
00:42:12,660 --> 00:42:15,320
Filled with legends, superstitions,
849
00:42:15,320 --> 00:42:17,523
good spirits, and demons.
850
00:42:23,606 --> 00:42:26,189
(birds crying)
851
00:42:34,250 --> 00:42:38,240
After six boiling hot
hours, we arrive in Aswan,
852
00:42:38,240 --> 00:42:42,080
Egypt's riviera, a playground
for the rich and famous.
853
00:42:42,080 --> 00:42:43,820
Well, that is if you
like taking your holiday
854
00:42:43,820 --> 00:42:45,873
in temperatures that would fry an egg.
855
00:42:49,670 --> 00:42:52,780
The island that was once the
site of a religious pilgrimage
856
00:42:52,780 --> 00:42:56,340
is now home to one of Aswan's
most expensive hotels,
857
00:42:56,340 --> 00:42:58,433
hopefully the one I'm staying in.
858
00:42:59,680 --> 00:43:00,670
Fantastic.
859
00:43:00,670 --> 00:43:03,340
This is Elephant-ine,
or Elephant-een island,
860
00:43:03,340 --> 00:43:05,770
and there was talk that once upon a time,
861
00:43:05,770 --> 00:43:08,730
the Ark of the Covenant,
when it was being taken away,
862
00:43:08,730 --> 00:43:12,060
rested here for a bit, stayed
here on Elephant-ine Island
863
00:43:12,060 --> 00:43:14,310
so people used to come
there for pilgrimages.
864
00:43:15,526 --> 00:43:18,220
So, Ramy, you're going to leave us now?
865
00:43:18,220 --> 00:43:19,800
- Unfortunately I am, Joanna.
866
00:43:19,800 --> 00:43:21,060
- You're going back to Cairo?
867
00:43:21,060 --> 00:43:22,373
- Yes, that's it for me.
868
00:43:22,373 --> 00:43:23,763
- Uh-huh.
869
00:43:23,763 --> 00:43:25,640
Will we see you again ever?
870
00:43:25,640 --> 00:43:27,350
- You will, of course indeed.
871
00:43:27,350 --> 00:43:30,000
I'm not sure about those guys.
872
00:43:30,000 --> 00:43:31,215
- Thank you so much for being with us.
873
00:43:31,215 --> 00:43:32,048
- Thank you Joanna.
874
00:43:32,048 --> 00:43:34,010
- It's been fantastic.
875
00:43:34,010 --> 00:43:35,374
Don't knock my hat off.
876
00:43:35,374 --> 00:43:36,805
You know I'm fond of
you, but not, you know.
877
00:43:36,805 --> 00:43:38,614
Thank you.
- Sorry.
878
00:43:38,614 --> 00:43:39,746
- Thank you so much.
879
00:43:39,746 --> 00:43:41,829
(laughs)
880
00:43:49,180 --> 00:43:52,040
The Victorians used to flock to Aswan,
881
00:43:52,040 --> 00:43:56,819
describing the town as being
on the edge of civilization,
882
00:43:56,819 --> 00:43:57,720
(cork popping)
883
00:43:57,720 --> 00:44:00,690
which is how I feel as I
prepare to embark on my trip
884
00:44:00,690 --> 00:44:03,023
into the remote deserts of Sudan.
885
00:44:04,040 --> 00:44:05,450
That looks lovely, Muhammad.
886
00:44:05,450 --> 00:44:06,411
- Thanks ma'am.
887
00:44:06,411 --> 00:44:07,403
- Shukran. Thank you.
888
00:44:08,580 --> 00:44:10,530
Well, fantastic.
889
00:44:10,530 --> 00:44:11,390
Extraordinary journey.
890
00:44:11,390 --> 00:44:12,990
We've already covered over 600 miles.
891
00:44:12,990 --> 00:44:16,690
The only 700 miles of the Nile in Egypt.
892
00:44:16,690 --> 00:44:17,830
Absolutely extraordinary.
893
00:44:17,830 --> 00:44:19,950
One of the most extraordinary things
894
00:44:19,950 --> 00:44:23,200
about this sensational glass of champagne,
895
00:44:23,200 --> 00:44:25,350
is that it's easily the last
alcohol I'm gonna be drinking
896
00:44:25,350 --> 00:44:28,440
for a bit, because Sudan is a dry country.
897
00:44:28,440 --> 00:44:29,273
No alcohol there.
898
00:44:29,273 --> 00:44:30,357
I mean, it's dry obviously desert,
899
00:44:30,357 --> 00:44:31,963
but no alcohol at all.
900
00:44:33,010 --> 00:44:35,733
Here, on the favorite map,
let's see where we've come.
901
00:44:37,160 --> 00:44:40,653
Familiar top of Africa,
where we came and Rosetta,
902
00:44:41,670 --> 00:44:43,600
all the way down past
Cairo, all the way down,
903
00:44:43,600 --> 00:44:47,050
and here we are, at Aswan, and tomorrow,
904
00:44:47,050 --> 00:44:50,300
we cross lake Nasser, the
biggest inland manmade lake
905
00:44:50,300 --> 00:44:54,420
in the world, and then winding
around, and cross into Sudan,
906
00:44:54,420 --> 00:44:58,453
and follow the river all the
way upstream to Khartoum here.
907
00:44:59,971 --> 00:45:00,804
And look at it.
908
00:45:01,670 --> 00:45:02,660
There's nothing here.
909
00:45:02,660 --> 00:45:03,720
It's gonna be very tough.
910
00:45:03,720 --> 00:45:05,630
This has been the end of luxury for me.
911
00:45:05,630 --> 00:45:09,670
We've been sitting in first
class compartments in trains,
912
00:45:09,670 --> 00:45:11,570
we've been traveling on
gorgeous tourist ships,
913
00:45:11,570 --> 00:45:14,670
we've been staying in
grand and delicious hotels,
914
00:45:14,670 --> 00:45:16,770
we've been forcing
ourselves every now and then
915
00:45:16,770 --> 00:45:19,520
to take a small libation,
just to sort of praise
916
00:45:19,520 --> 00:45:21,273
the river gods and things, and ...
917
00:45:22,710 --> 00:45:26,423
Tomorrow I think it's going
to be a very different story.
918
00:45:30,320 --> 00:45:32,533
Muhammad, the bottle, thank you.
919
00:45:33,422 --> 00:45:36,172
(mystical music)
66521
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