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1
00:00:07,040 --> 00:00:09,040
It's 5:30 in the morning.
2
00:00:10,280 --> 00:00:13,790
An early start for the final leg
of my adventures through India.
3
00:00:19,720 --> 00:00:22,150
I'm joggling across Rajasthan in a train.
4
00:00:22,200 --> 00:00:24,390
I'm sitting in a third-class compartment,
5
00:00:24,440 --> 00:00:26,110
which actually is terrific,
6
00:00:26,160 --> 00:00:28,030
apart from the slightly shonky windows
7
00:00:28,080 --> 00:00:28,930
with bits of...
8
00:00:29,880 --> 00:00:32,470
.. it's fabulous. It's
got three layers of seats
9
00:00:32,520 --> 00:00:35,550
and you get two sheets
and a pillow to lie down.
10
00:00:35,600 --> 00:00:37,590
And the lavatory is two little footprints
11
00:00:37,640 --> 00:00:39,630
and a hole to the ground.
12
00:00:39,680 --> 00:00:41,680
What's not to like?!
13
00:00:43,400 --> 00:00:46,750
This year, India's celebrating
70 years of its independence,
14
00:00:46,800 --> 00:00:49,270
and I'm travelling
around the subcontinent,
15
00:00:49,320 --> 00:00:51,840
exploring this most glorious of countries.
16
00:00:55,240 --> 00:00:59,230
So far, I've seen the great
Hindu temples of the south...
17
00:00:59,280 --> 00:01:00,710
Trumpets are starting.
18
00:01:00,760 --> 00:01:03,960
.. braved the mountain road
to the Kingdom of Sikkim...
19
00:01:04,920 --> 00:01:08,790
Quite scary bits of the road
where somebody's gone over.
20
00:01:08,840 --> 00:01:12,430
.. visited the deserts in
the west of the country...
21
00:01:12,480 --> 00:01:14,110
This is my first sip of camel milk.
22
00:01:14,160 --> 00:01:16,830
.. and the teeming metropolis of Mumbai.
23
00:01:16,880 --> 00:01:18,070
- Here's my uncle.
- Yes!
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00:01:18,120 --> 00:01:19,720
There's Ivor.
25
00:01:21,000 --> 00:01:22,750
In this, my final adventure,
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we'll revisit Rajasthan,
27
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travel on to Delhi
28
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and up to the foothills of the Himalayas.
29
00:01:30,240 --> 00:01:32,880
I'll witness the complexities
of the capital city...
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.. have an audience
with a great holy man...
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Holiness, we've got a present for you,
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- which we hope that you like.
- Ooh!
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.. and end in glorious Kashmir,
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00:01:46,680 --> 00:01:48,080
the place of my birth.
35
00:01:49,440 --> 00:01:51,800
Welcome to India.
36
00:02:03,600 --> 00:02:06,840
The train is taking me to my
last adventure in Rajasthan.
37
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Lying on the Pakistan border,
38
00:02:12,600 --> 00:02:15,710
Rajasthan is famous for
its beautiful deserts,
39
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its opulent palaces
40
00:02:18,000 --> 00:02:19,910
and its stunning lakes.
41
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It's also home to one of the most
famous tiger reserves in the world.
42
00:02:24,120 --> 00:02:28,390
In about 1850, there were
250,000 tigers roaming in India.
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00:02:28,440 --> 00:02:30,190
But they were hunted ceaselessly
44
00:02:30,240 --> 00:02:33,110
by the British and Maharajahs
together in great big shoots,
45
00:02:33,160 --> 00:02:36,960
and ten years ago, their numbers
had dwindled to 1,400 tigers left.
46
00:02:38,200 --> 00:02:41,630
They've done huge conservation
programmes and they've worked on it,
47
00:02:41,680 --> 00:02:44,150
and they've got the numbers over 2,000.
48
00:02:44,200 --> 00:02:47,030
Anyway, I'm going to a place
called Ranthambore National Park,
49
00:02:47,080 --> 00:02:52,030
which is one of the finest
wildlife reserves in India.
50
00:03:01,480 --> 00:03:05,840
In the cool of dawn, I get my first
glimpse of this stunning park.
51
00:03:08,080 --> 00:03:10,510
It was established back in 1973,
52
00:03:10,560 --> 00:03:13,280
around the ruins of a 10th-century fort.
53
00:03:15,480 --> 00:03:18,400
This is a gateway in
itself, this banyan tree.
54
00:03:19,400 --> 00:03:22,390
This park is like something out
of Kipling's Jungle Book --
55
00:03:22,440 --> 00:03:24,470
quintessentially Indian --
56
00:03:24,520 --> 00:03:26,430
and I'm lucky enough to have as my guide
57
00:03:26,480 --> 00:03:29,760
one of the world's most eminent
tiger conservationists.
58
00:03:30,760 --> 00:03:34,190
Belinda Wright has spent
her entire life in India,
59
00:03:34,240 --> 00:03:36,990
founded the country's
wildlife protection society
60
00:03:37,040 --> 00:03:40,360
and has been a leading light
in the fight against poaching.
61
00:03:42,000 --> 00:03:44,070
What are the hours that a tiger keeps?
62
00:03:44,120 --> 00:03:46,430
When do they kill? When do they sleep?
63
00:03:46,480 --> 00:03:48,190
When it's very hot,
64
00:03:48,240 --> 00:03:50,440
they'll either sleep or go in the water.
65
00:03:51,440 --> 00:03:53,110
They like the water.
66
00:03:53,160 --> 00:03:56,910
If they make a big kill, then they
have a huge amount of food to eat,
67
00:03:56,960 --> 00:03:59,680
- and then they'll just
sleep. - Sleep it off. - Yeah.
68
00:04:02,040 --> 00:04:03,950
We should get moving
69
00:04:04,000 --> 00:04:08,240
because our best chance of finding
a tiger is the next half hour.
70
00:04:10,520 --> 00:04:13,390
Today the park provides a safe habitat,
71
00:04:13,440 --> 00:04:16,560
and tiger numbers have just
reached a healthy level.
72
00:04:18,880 --> 00:04:21,600
But you still need an
expert guide to spot one.
73
00:04:26,520 --> 00:04:29,390
(The good thing is this is
the time they walk around.)
74
00:04:31,160 --> 00:04:33,430
(You have to just look for movement.)
75
00:04:33,480 --> 00:04:35,150
(You can just see her there,)
76
00:04:35,200 --> 00:04:37,430
(just a little shadow...)
77
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(walking through the trees.)
78
00:04:40,880 --> 00:04:42,880
(Oh, my gosh.)
79
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(Look at that colour!)
80
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God, to see her through
the woods like this,
81
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it's just extraordinary.
82
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(Do you see her battle scars?)
83
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- (Who's she been fighting with?)
- (Oh, everybody!)
84
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(Mother, sister, brother, etcetera.)
85
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God, how fantastic.
86
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Ranthambore highlights the
seemingly unsolvable problem
87
00:05:22,480 --> 00:05:25,080
of people and tigers
trying to live together.
88
00:05:28,560 --> 00:05:31,750
And indeed, not everyone
is in favour of the park.
89
00:05:31,800 --> 00:05:34,270
200 families were evicted from the land,
90
00:05:34,320 --> 00:05:38,960
and many very poor people still see
poaching as a means of survival.
91
00:05:40,640 --> 00:05:42,830
But there's a unique grassroots project
92
00:05:42,880 --> 00:05:45,390
that's designed to bring the locals onside
93
00:05:45,440 --> 00:05:48,760
and defeat the culture of
poaching that threatens the park.
94
00:05:55,080 --> 00:05:57,350
These are the children
of the Moghiya people,
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00:05:57,400 --> 00:06:01,030
a local tribe of skilful
hunters and trackers,
96
00:06:01,080 --> 00:06:03,950
who are now blamed for much of
the poaching around the park.
97
00:06:04,000 --> 00:06:05,990
May I join your class?
98
00:06:06,040 --> 00:06:07,790
Namaskar, namaskar, little ones.
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00:06:07,840 --> 00:06:09,550
How nice to see you. Please sit.
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00:06:09,600 --> 00:06:13,520
The Moghiya are semi-nomadic, and
school is not usually an option.
101
00:06:15,160 --> 00:06:17,430
These boys are being given an education
102
00:06:17,480 --> 00:06:20,710
in the hope that they don't
grow up to become tiger killers.
103
00:06:20,760 --> 00:06:22,670
What is your favourite animal?
104
00:06:22,720 --> 00:06:24,710
- Tiger. - Tiger. - Tiger!
105
00:06:25,760 --> 00:06:26,670
Mine too.
106
00:06:27,220 --> 00:06:31,830
~
107
00:06:31,880 --> 00:06:34,430
Young Vikram, who's singing to the class,
108
00:06:34,480 --> 00:06:36,990
is the grandson of a notorious poacher,
109
00:06:37,040 --> 00:06:39,640
who's awaiting trial for
killing several tigers.
110
00:06:39,690 --> 00:06:41,270
~
111
00:06:41,320 --> 00:06:44,150
Thank you. Shabash, shabash, shabash.
112
00:06:51,320 --> 00:06:55,430
Of these children, their parents
have never had any education
113
00:06:55,480 --> 00:06:57,350
nor did their grandparents.
114
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Because their parents are usually
dabbling in the dark arts of poaching,
115
00:07:00,880 --> 00:07:03,910
suddenly, this is the new generation,
which is going to change that.
116
00:07:03,960 --> 00:07:07,470
Let's hope that when maybe they're tempted
by any kind of crime in the future,
117
00:07:07,520 --> 00:07:10,280
they'll push it aside and
remember the teaching here.
118
00:07:11,840 --> 00:07:13,840
Dr Khandal runs the project,
119
00:07:13,920 --> 00:07:15,990
and has seen the results.
120
00:07:16,040 --> 00:07:19,110
Do you think that, by
teaching the Moghiya boys
121
00:07:19,160 --> 00:07:22,390
that poaching is bad, that
they will change their ways?
122
00:07:22,440 --> 00:07:25,990
Yeah, yeah, definitely.
Poaching is amazingly in decline.
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00:07:26,040 --> 00:07:27,470
- It's going down?
- Yeah.
124
00:07:27,520 --> 00:07:30,310
The fact of the involvement
of the Moghiya community.
125
00:07:30,360 --> 00:07:33,270
They are the prime poaching
community in this area,
126
00:07:33,320 --> 00:07:36,390
and these boys are getting
an alternative, so...
127
00:07:36,440 --> 00:07:39,310
It's a brighter future, for
people and for animals.
128
00:07:39,360 --> 00:07:41,950
Nearly a million people
live around the park,
129
00:07:42,000 --> 00:07:45,470
and Tiger Watch is also
attempting to bring them onside.
130
00:07:45,520 --> 00:07:48,750
They are being trained
to catch tigers on camera.
131
00:07:48,800 --> 00:07:50,470
So this is fixed to a tree.
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Yeah. This is the motion-detection camera.
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They've got some real beauties already,
134
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but I thought I'd lend MY experience.
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Here I go,
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walking like a tiger, quite slowly.
137
00:08:03,360 --> 00:08:04,790
I look like an old sofa!
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00:08:04,840 --> 00:08:06,060
Oh, it's got me.
139
00:08:07,920 --> 00:08:11,230
Don't please make me a George
Galloway thing. Here I go.
140
00:08:11,280 --> 00:08:14,310
Looks like a really deranged
person who's escaped from a home.
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00:08:14,360 --> 00:08:16,750
A person...
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00:08:16,800 --> 00:08:19,190
bolting for it.
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Bahut acha.
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Thank you. Thank you very much indeed.
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That's excellent.
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Here I go.
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Before leaving for Delhi, I
have one more day in Ranthambore,
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00:08:41,160 --> 00:08:44,040
and one more chance to
see a tiger in the wild.
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00:08:46,160 --> 00:08:47,340
Crikey, go a bit faster!
150
00:09:03,120 --> 00:09:07,480
(There's too many deer around
for her to be very close by.)
151
00:09:13,080 --> 00:09:15,270
- I'm trying to think
like a tigress. - Yeah.
152
00:09:15,320 --> 00:09:17,320
Who's hot, slightly hungry...
153
00:09:18,920 --> 00:09:22,270
And after several long, hot
hours in the back of the Jeep,
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00:09:22,320 --> 00:09:24,960
Belinda directs us
towards another waterhole.
155
00:09:26,080 --> 00:09:28,150
And there's not a deer in sight.
156
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Oh, my God, across the
way, through the tree.
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Can you see?
158
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She's getting in the water.
159
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She's being very respectful of crocodiles.
160
00:09:54,280 --> 00:09:57,200
Crocodiles can gang up on tigers in water.
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That is all to do with crocodiles.
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Wow!
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(Isn't that wonderful?)
164
00:10:17,320 --> 00:10:19,000
- (Spooked by something.)
- (Yeah.)
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00:10:20,440 --> 00:10:22,910
Do you think all these
creatures are saying,
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'Watch out, watch out!
Tiger, tiger, tiger!'?
167
00:10:25,200 --> 00:10:28,590
There's a whole load of peacocks
looking slightly polite and bemused.
168
00:10:28,640 --> 00:10:31,230
'Oh, I think we'd better
get out of here now.
169
00:10:31,280 --> 00:10:33,280
Here comes Madam Tigress.'
170
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I am just so thrilled to have seen that --
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to have seen her walking
through the water like that.
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It's been wonderful --
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and SHE is wonderful.
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Oh, look, here.
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Honestly, Belinda, I
can't thank you enough.
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You've also done everything
in the world, haven't you?
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I've never seen a tiger tiptoeing
through the water like that
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because of crocodiles.
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00:11:00,080 --> 00:11:02,080
- Every day is a new day here.
- Yes.
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250 miles to the north lies Delhi.
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Modern India's capital,
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but also a city that's been
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the centre of a succession
of many mighty empires.
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The Moguls invaded from Persia,
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and established their empire here in 1526.
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These Muslim rulers left a legacy
of some of the most stunning
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00:11:41,560 --> 00:11:44,080
and imaginative architecture in the world.
188
00:11:46,600 --> 00:11:48,470
This is the Emperor Humayun's Tomb.
189
00:11:48,520 --> 00:11:50,870
A faintly familiar shape?
190
00:11:50,920 --> 00:11:55,510
That's because this is the precursor
of the great dynastic mausoleums,
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which, decades later,
culminated in the Taj Mahal.
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Look at it. This was the first time
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00:12:02,080 --> 00:12:05,270
so much red sandstone and
gleaming white marble
194
00:12:05,320 --> 00:12:07,320
had been used in such profusion.
195
00:12:08,160 --> 00:12:10,160
I love it!
196
00:12:12,440 --> 00:12:15,470
But it's quite possible that
without this glorious building,
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MY story could have been very different.
198
00:12:18,840 --> 00:12:21,630
I'm particularly grateful
to this place because
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00:12:21,680 --> 00:12:24,710
it's where my father proposed
to my mother and she accepted.
200
00:12:24,760 --> 00:12:26,870
I think he must have
been down here in Delhi
201
00:12:26,920 --> 00:12:28,590
on some sort of army business.
202
00:12:28,640 --> 00:12:31,230
They'd met in Kashmir. She
might have been staying...
203
00:12:31,280 --> 00:12:34,470
were her parents here at the
time or maybe her older sister?
204
00:12:34,520 --> 00:12:37,630
Anyway, they came for a romantic
walk around Humayun's Tomb.
205
00:12:37,680 --> 00:12:40,070
He said, 'Will you marry
me?' and she said, 'Yes.'
206
00:12:40,120 --> 00:12:43,430
And I'm so thrilled because, if
they hadn't agreed to get married,
207
00:12:43,480 --> 00:12:45,590
I wouldn't be here, my
sister wouldn't be here
208
00:12:45,640 --> 00:12:47,940
and life would've been
completely different.
209
00:12:48,480 --> 00:12:49,550
How lovely.
210
00:12:50,600 --> 00:12:53,470
So this is where their hearts beat as one.
211
00:12:53,520 --> 00:12:56,630
This is a gorgeous time of day.
It's very early in the morning.
212
00:12:56,680 --> 00:12:58,750
And as a beautiful waitress said to me
213
00:12:58,800 --> 00:13:01,430
on a Tennessee morning
at breakfast, she said,
214
00:13:01,480 --> 00:13:03,670
'Y'all have a blessed day now.'
215
00:13:04,220 --> 00:13:05,260
So I shall!
216
00:13:18,420 --> 00:13:22,270
Delhi is one of the oldest
inhabited cities in the world.
217
00:13:22,320 --> 00:13:25,440
The British in India moved
their capital here in 1911.
218
00:13:28,120 --> 00:13:32,150
It was a strategic move, intended
to avoid the growing opposition
219
00:13:32,200 --> 00:13:34,720
to British rule in the
old capital Calcutta.
220
00:13:36,360 --> 00:13:38,350
The architect Edwin Lutyens
221
00:13:38,400 --> 00:13:41,720
was commissioned to design
the new government buildings.
222
00:13:42,720 --> 00:13:45,270
I love this part of Delhi.
It's actually New Delhi.
223
00:13:45,320 --> 00:13:47,350
Lutyens was an extraordinary man
224
00:13:47,400 --> 00:13:50,270
because he respected
Indian architecture so much,
225
00:13:50,320 --> 00:13:53,310
and so he's got these
little cupolas and minarets
226
00:13:53,360 --> 00:13:56,310
and things that look
charming and Indian about it.
227
00:13:56,360 --> 00:13:59,150
This just says India on a majestic scale.
228
00:13:59,200 --> 00:14:02,430
And people who came out
here to visit the Viceroy
229
00:14:02,480 --> 00:14:04,550
said that it made Buckingham Palace
230
00:14:04,600 --> 00:14:06,440
look like a cottage.
231
00:14:09,440 --> 00:14:11,790
Seven decades of self-government have seen
232
00:14:11,840 --> 00:14:14,990
India emerge as a major world power,
233
00:14:15,040 --> 00:14:19,360
and Delhi has witnessed a phenomenal
growth in high-tech industries.
234
00:14:22,840 --> 00:14:25,030
The success of something called BPO --
235
00:14:25,080 --> 00:14:28,200
or business process outsourcing
-- has been pivotal...
236
00:14:30,320 --> 00:14:33,750
.. and India now earns £50 billion a year,
237
00:14:33,800 --> 00:14:36,320
providing business services for the world.
238
00:14:38,240 --> 00:14:40,510
Companies such as Pepsi and Vodafone
239
00:14:40,560 --> 00:14:43,720
have outsourced some of
their services to DigiCall.
240
00:14:45,560 --> 00:14:47,760
It's one of Delhi's many call centres.
241
00:14:49,080 --> 00:14:51,510
I want to see if I could get a job there.
242
00:14:51,560 --> 00:14:53,830
Hello. Good morning. I'm Joanna Lumley.
243
00:14:53,880 --> 00:14:55,590
I've come for interview.
244
00:14:55,640 --> 00:14:57,710
Hi. You can have a seat
and fill this form in.
245
00:14:57,760 --> 00:14:59,760
OK, thank you.
246
00:15:00,760 --> 00:15:03,030
Years of exp?
247
00:15:03,080 --> 00:15:05,830
Experience. How much experience you have.
248
00:15:05,880 --> 00:15:07,550
A lifetime.
249
00:15:07,600 --> 00:15:10,910
OK, good, this is going to
be 70 years' experience.
250
00:15:10,960 --> 00:15:14,390
Ratings are: one --
poor, five -- excellent.
251
00:15:14,440 --> 00:15:17,470
I'm going to be excellent,
excellent, excellent, excellent.
252
00:15:17,520 --> 00:15:19,800
- No, they will rate you.
- Oh, THEY rate me?
253
00:15:22,840 --> 00:15:26,480
Rajeev Sharma is one of
India's call centre gurus.
254
00:15:27,480 --> 00:15:30,350
So, Rajeev, this seems to
me behind me cyber city.
255
00:15:30,400 --> 00:15:32,430
How long has this been here?
256
00:15:32,480 --> 00:15:35,800
- Essentially, the last ten years.
- And so what was here before?
257
00:15:36,760 --> 00:15:37,910
- Nothing.
- Nothing.
258
00:15:37,960 --> 00:15:41,030
In Britain, sometimes working
at a call centre might be seen
259
00:15:41,080 --> 00:15:43,590
as quite a lowly job, but
here it's good, isn't it?
260
00:15:43,640 --> 00:15:48,550
Here it is. Money-wise this is a
place where you can earn money
261
00:15:48,600 --> 00:15:50,750
and decide what you
want to do with it later.
262
00:15:50,800 --> 00:15:53,350
Is this a young-people
industry, do you think?
263
00:15:53,400 --> 00:15:58,190
Yes. Average age in a call centre
would be anywhere between 18 to 25.
264
00:15:58,240 --> 00:15:59,470
- So very young?
- Very young.
265
00:15:59,520 --> 00:16:01,790
I think I've filled in
everything I need to.
266
00:16:01,840 --> 00:16:03,550
They will call you for interview.
267
00:16:03,600 --> 00:16:06,870
- So she'll be our new candidate. - OK.
268
00:16:06,920 --> 00:16:08,590
I'm Joanna.
269
00:16:08,640 --> 00:16:10,950
So, Joanna, why do you want
to work in a call centre?
270
00:16:11,000 --> 00:16:13,630
Because I love communicating with people,
271
00:16:13,680 --> 00:16:16,510
and I think it's an industry
that is growing and growing,
272
00:16:16,560 --> 00:16:18,750
- and I'd love to be part of it.
- Great.
273
00:16:18,800 --> 00:16:20,190
Have you seen how old I am?
274
00:16:20,240 --> 00:16:21,630
- It's OK.
- OK, good.
275
00:16:21,680 --> 00:16:23,790
They can't see me because I'm on a phone.
276
00:16:23,840 --> 00:16:25,310
That's completely fine.
277
00:16:25,360 --> 00:16:27,630
We give opportunities to
each and every person.
278
00:16:27,680 --> 00:16:29,230
Hello, madam. How can I help you?
279
00:16:29,280 --> 00:16:32,670
I've somehow blagged my way through
to the final stage of the training.
280
00:16:32,720 --> 00:16:34,390
'Where is my product?'
281
00:16:34,440 --> 00:16:36,590
Oh, madam, I'm so sorry for this delay,
282
00:16:36,640 --> 00:16:40,310
and I'm going to ensure that the
product gets to you tomorrow...
283
00:16:40,360 --> 00:16:43,630
Ajay Sam is in charge
of this whole operation.
284
00:16:43,680 --> 00:16:48,270
We service around 45 clients
internationally and within India.
285
00:16:48,320 --> 00:16:51,110
Yeah. We cater to all languages.
286
00:16:51,160 --> 00:16:53,150
And is this growing?
287
00:16:53,200 --> 00:16:55,350
We're growing at a rate
of 15-20% year on year.
288
00:16:55,400 --> 00:16:57,070
- That's huge.
- That's huge, yeah.
289
00:16:57,120 --> 00:16:59,870
Because you've had to have such
a hard time with our company,
290
00:16:59,920 --> 00:17:02,590
I'm going to send you a
free product of your choice.
291
00:17:02,640 --> 00:17:05,630
'You're going to give me something
as a complimentary product?'
292
00:17:05,680 --> 00:17:08,670
I'm going to give you a
complimentary product.
293
00:17:08,720 --> 00:17:11,870
I think that, if I came
to you as a trainee,
294
00:17:11,920 --> 00:17:14,150
you wouldn't accept me. I promise you.
295
00:17:14,200 --> 00:17:15,910
Oh, why do you say that?
296
00:17:15,960 --> 00:17:17,750
I'm not very good at IT.
297
00:17:19,480 --> 00:17:22,230
And I would promise the
customer anything they wanted!
298
00:17:22,280 --> 00:17:24,190
She had a toaster. That's all she wanted.
299
00:17:24,240 --> 00:17:25,790
Now she's ordered an oven as well.
300
00:17:25,840 --> 00:17:27,590
I've promised her it -- free.
301
00:17:27,640 --> 00:17:31,070
We'll send her the oven as well,
and then we'll send her a bill.
302
00:17:31,120 --> 00:17:33,630
- It's been a pleasure being here.
- My pleasure too.
303
00:17:33,680 --> 00:17:36,030
I've got to say, it's still
left me terribly nervous
304
00:17:36,080 --> 00:17:39,350
in case somebody rings up and says,
'I'm very angry about the delivery.'
305
00:17:39,400 --> 00:17:40,520
No!
306
00:17:43,280 --> 00:17:46,830
I now have the greatest respect for
people who work in call centres,
307
00:17:46,880 --> 00:17:49,070
and next time I'm put through to them,
308
00:17:49,120 --> 00:17:51,120
I shall be more appreciative.
309
00:17:57,280 --> 00:17:58,950
I was a model in the '60s,
310
00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:02,110
and any time there's a chance to
drop in on a photographic shoot,
311
00:18:02,160 --> 00:18:03,550
I'm there.
312
00:18:03,600 --> 00:18:05,830
But this is exciting
because this in India.
313
00:18:05,880 --> 00:18:09,350
Top Indian designer, Indian
stylist, top Indian models,
314
00:18:09,400 --> 00:18:12,480
and I'm in Delhi, and
it's going to be fabulous.
315
00:18:16,360 --> 00:18:18,710
The thing about photo
shoots all around the world
316
00:18:18,760 --> 00:18:21,870
is that they're exactly the
same. It just unifies us.
317
00:18:21,920 --> 00:18:25,190
It doesn't matter whether you're
in the United States or Russia,
318
00:18:25,240 --> 00:18:28,470
in Japan, here in India, it kind
of draws the whole world together.
319
00:18:28,520 --> 00:18:30,750
Ravishing beauty,
320
00:18:30,800 --> 00:18:33,110
gorgeous things which look unattainable.
321
00:18:33,160 --> 00:18:36,990
All to go into a magazine, all
to make women dream of beauty.
322
00:18:37,040 --> 00:18:39,030
Oh, dear, I can't get this off.
323
00:18:39,080 --> 00:18:41,080
I may have to keep it!
324
00:18:42,120 --> 00:18:44,750
Today's shoot is resort wear.
325
00:18:44,800 --> 00:18:46,790
Gosh, it's fantastic.
326
00:18:46,840 --> 00:18:49,030
Traditionally, only for the very rich,
327
00:18:49,080 --> 00:18:53,160
but now part of the £50 billion
Indians spend on fashion every year.
328
00:18:54,280 --> 00:18:56,270
Rajdeep, these are high-end clothes.
329
00:18:56,320 --> 00:18:58,310
Is there a huge market for them?
330
00:18:58,360 --> 00:19:00,270
There's a huge market because today
331
00:19:00,320 --> 00:19:03,030
all the clients are
travelling internationally,
332
00:19:03,080 --> 00:19:06,110
and resort wear has become so
strong. It's affordable as well.
333
00:19:06,160 --> 00:19:08,030
Could anybody aspire to owning this?
334
00:19:08,080 --> 00:19:11,830
Probably just about $150.
335
00:19:11,880 --> 00:19:13,670
- Right? - What?! - Yes.
336
00:19:13,720 --> 00:19:15,630
- Yes. - What?! - Yes!
337
00:19:15,680 --> 00:19:17,390
Oh, my heavens!
338
00:19:17,440 --> 00:19:19,310
- That's a little tunic.
- That's a tunic.
339
00:19:19,360 --> 00:19:21,430
You call this style Boho Indian Luxe.
340
00:19:21,480 --> 00:19:25,200
- I just made that up, but I think it sounds...
- It sounds pretty good.
341
00:19:25,520 --> 00:19:27,710
You could be feeling really dowdy,
342
00:19:27,760 --> 00:19:29,870
and you just put on something like this,
343
00:19:29,920 --> 00:19:32,670
a bit of lippy -- you've got
to do something to your face.
344
00:19:32,720 --> 00:19:36,360
But anyway, once you've done that,
you've got something like this on...
345
00:19:39,320 --> 00:19:43,550
Around the world, Indian
models are so in vogue right now
346
00:19:43,600 --> 00:19:45,870
and can demand top dollar.
347
00:19:45,920 --> 00:19:48,350
Would it be dreadfully rude
if you told me your age?
348
00:19:48,400 --> 00:19:50,910
- I'm 38. Not at all.
- Stop it!
349
00:19:50,960 --> 00:19:52,510
No! I'm 38.
350
00:19:52,560 --> 00:19:54,590
- You look just like a child.
- Thank you.
351
00:19:54,640 --> 00:19:56,550
I feel like a child!
352
00:19:56,600 --> 00:19:59,030
You look about 19, and beyond gorgeous.
353
00:19:59,080 --> 00:20:01,070
- You are so beautiful.
- Oh, stop it!
354
00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:03,910
Sitting here, double-sharing
the mirror, you go,
355
00:20:03,960 --> 00:20:06,160
'Oh, I'm going to have to ask for help.'
356
00:20:07,440 --> 00:20:09,430
Isn't that beautiful?
357
00:20:09,480 --> 00:20:12,350
I love make-up. All these people
who say, 'Scrub your face,
358
00:20:12,400 --> 00:20:15,680
- and go about as nature intended,'
I think that's a bore. - Yeah.
359
00:20:17,560 --> 00:20:20,070
Modelling requires a bit
of patience and skill.
360
00:20:22,160 --> 00:20:24,230
More than most people imagine.
361
00:20:24,280 --> 00:20:25,790
I can remember a time
362
00:20:25,840 --> 00:20:28,710
when Patsy was stoned out of
her mind doing some photographs,
363
00:20:28,760 --> 00:20:31,030
and she trod through the
back paper like this.
364
00:20:31,080 --> 00:20:33,870
- Yeah, I remember seeing that!
- And got all caught up in it.
365
00:20:33,920 --> 00:20:35,910
- Squeeze in, guys.
- Lovely!
366
00:20:36,960 --> 00:20:37,790
Thank you.
367
00:20:37,840 --> 00:20:40,040
Thanks, darlings. Thank
you, my lovely ones.
368
00:20:41,000 --> 00:20:44,190
Today Delhi is clearly
somewhere you can make it.
369
00:20:44,240 --> 00:20:46,880
Its population is exploding...
370
00:20:48,080 --> 00:20:52,760
.. and £280 million is being
spent on a new monorail system.
371
00:20:56,400 --> 00:20:58,830
But in the shadow of one
of the new train lines
372
00:20:58,880 --> 00:21:02,800
you can also see what happens to the
thousands who aren't so fortunate.
373
00:21:07,680 --> 00:21:10,150
Those not earning can quickly
fall through the net,
374
00:21:10,200 --> 00:21:13,070
and the number of homeless in
the city is now estimated to be
375
00:21:13,120 --> 00:21:16,040
far in excess of 150,000.
376
00:21:20,400 --> 00:21:22,990
- Are they from all over India?
- Yeah, yeah.
377
00:21:23,040 --> 00:21:25,070
All over India coming to Delhi.
378
00:21:25,120 --> 00:21:27,310
- Where do you sleep here?
- Can sleep anywhere.
379
00:21:27,360 --> 00:21:29,280
Here, there, here, here.
380
00:21:30,200 --> 00:21:32,070
This is an area of central Delhi
381
00:21:32,120 --> 00:21:34,630
where countless homeless
men bed down for the night
382
00:21:34,680 --> 00:21:36,990
and where I met Raju.
383
00:21:37,040 --> 00:21:39,590
So, Raju, how long have you lived here?
384
00:21:39,640 --> 00:21:41,470
Last 38 years.
385
00:21:41,520 --> 00:21:43,350
38 years?
386
00:21:43,400 --> 00:21:46,350
But you're a young man. How old
were you when you came here?
387
00:21:46,400 --> 00:21:48,790
12 years. I was 12.
388
00:21:48,840 --> 00:21:50,950
12, Raju. What happened?
389
00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:54,550
Because I was drinker.
390
00:21:54,600 --> 00:21:56,350
Alcoholic.
391
00:21:56,400 --> 00:21:59,270
- When you were a little boy?
- Yeah, I was 12.
392
00:21:59,320 --> 00:22:02,950
My family and between me,
there were some problems.
393
00:22:03,000 --> 00:22:04,990
- So you had a split-up?
- Yeah.
394
00:22:05,040 --> 00:22:07,790
And they threw you out? And you came here.
395
00:22:07,840 --> 00:22:09,950
And what do people do when they come here?
396
00:22:10,000 --> 00:22:11,750
They try to work in the daytime?
397
00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:16,190
Some people -- they're doing
garbage work. You will see there.
398
00:22:16,240 --> 00:22:19,230
Yes, recycling things and
garbage, collecting things.
399
00:22:19,280 --> 00:22:22,360
Collecting things, and
they're selling here.
400
00:22:23,800 --> 00:22:27,190
Ingeniously, some of these men
have set up a makeshift cinema
401
00:22:27,240 --> 00:22:29,240
from all sorts of old scraps.
402
00:22:30,560 --> 00:22:32,790
Cinemas in Delhi don't accept us.
403
00:22:32,840 --> 00:22:35,150
- Tell me about that.
- They just kick us.
404
00:22:35,200 --> 00:22:36,910
- Do they kick you out?
- Yeah, yeah.
405
00:22:36,960 --> 00:22:39,160
- Why?
- Because we are dirty people.
406
00:22:40,000 --> 00:22:42,550
We don't have nice clothes.
407
00:22:42,600 --> 00:22:44,590
We don't have perfumes.
408
00:22:44,640 --> 00:22:46,590
That kind of things.
409
00:22:46,640 --> 00:22:49,310
I'd love to see what films you're showing.
410
00:22:49,360 --> 00:22:51,270
Can I come in?
411
00:22:51,320 --> 00:22:53,320
Yeah.
412
00:22:54,040 --> 00:23:03,990
~
413
00:23:04,040 --> 00:23:06,550
This seems a very happy crowd.
414
00:23:06,600 --> 00:23:09,430
Are they happy people because
they're watching television?
415
00:23:09,480 --> 00:23:11,790
They don't worry about another day.
416
00:23:11,840 --> 00:23:14,910
- They just want to spend today.
- Today, now.
417
00:23:14,960 --> 00:23:16,950
- Yeah.
- They're living in the present.
418
00:23:17,000 --> 00:23:19,910
- We're all like a family here.
- Yes.
419
00:23:19,960 --> 00:23:21,910
We don't have relations here.
420
00:23:21,960 --> 00:23:23,910
We are all one.
421
00:23:23,960 --> 00:23:26,160
- You're all one family.
- Yeah. - It's wonderful.
422
00:23:27,080 --> 00:23:31,030
Which are favourite films?
Which are the most popular?
423
00:23:31,080 --> 00:23:33,920
Some movies I see, the James Bond...
424
00:23:35,040 --> 00:23:37,230
And Arnaldo -- something like that.
425
00:23:37,280 --> 00:23:39,110
I know who you mean.
426
00:23:39,160 --> 00:23:41,550
- Arnold Schwarzenegger.
- Ah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
427
00:23:41,600 --> 00:23:43,720
Arnold Schwarzenegger. Yeah, Arnie.
428
00:23:55,960 --> 00:23:59,110
It may only be an old TV and a DVD player
429
00:23:59,160 --> 00:24:01,310
wired up under a makeshift tent,
430
00:24:01,360 --> 00:24:04,560
but -- for these men -- it's
their own Cinema Paradiso.
431
00:24:10,040 --> 00:24:12,040
Phew!
432
00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:15,190
Well, quite hot in there,
433
00:24:15,240 --> 00:24:17,550
but what an extraordinary place.
434
00:24:17,600 --> 00:24:20,230
We're in the heart of
Delhi, the capital of India,
435
00:24:20,280 --> 00:24:24,110
and living in as decrepit
and derelict conditions
436
00:24:24,160 --> 00:24:25,870
as I've ever been in.
437
00:24:25,920 --> 00:24:27,910
Just in this very short
time I've been here,
438
00:24:27,960 --> 00:24:29,670
I've seen rats and dogs of all kinds.
439
00:24:29,720 --> 00:24:31,550
Everybody kind of getting on.
440
00:24:31,600 --> 00:24:33,350
Cows wandering through rubbish.
441
00:24:33,400 --> 00:24:35,230
It's astonishing.
442
00:24:35,280 --> 00:24:37,590
I'm so pleased I came here.
443
00:24:37,640 --> 00:24:40,510
[~]
444
00:24:40,560 --> 00:24:42,790
Isn't it odd, this life-saving thing?
445
00:24:42,840 --> 00:24:45,230
Look what it does. Look
at the pleasure it gives.
446
00:24:45,280 --> 00:24:48,790
Suddenly, for a moment,
they're lost. They can escape.
447
00:24:48,840 --> 00:24:52,510
They're entertained, and
life can seem glorious again,
448
00:24:52,560 --> 00:24:54,560
sitting with a great big family.
449
00:24:55,440 --> 00:24:57,510
It's extraordinarily gentle,
450
00:24:57,560 --> 00:25:01,230
and to go in there and some people
making namaste welcome signs.
451
00:25:01,280 --> 00:25:04,430
And the gentleman sitting next to
me, who's missing the front teeth,
452
00:25:04,480 --> 00:25:07,070
he said politely, 'Do you have a problem?'
453
00:25:07,120 --> 00:25:09,190
And I said, 'No. No
problem.' And he meant...
454
00:25:09,240 --> 00:25:12,230
And then he said, 'You want
water?' That was his problem.
455
00:25:12,280 --> 00:25:15,480
He was meaning, 'Would you
like me to get you some water?'
456
00:25:25,880 --> 00:25:27,880
(I'm sorry.)
457
00:25:31,920 --> 00:25:33,910
Anyway...
458
00:25:33,960 --> 00:25:37,560
Anyway, anyway, they've got the cinema.
459
00:25:39,200 --> 00:25:41,200
That's good.
460
00:25:46,080 --> 00:25:48,030
We were all so touched by what we saw here
461
00:25:48,080 --> 00:25:50,910
that we thought we'd help
out with some tarpaulin
462
00:25:50,960 --> 00:25:55,280
to weatherproof the leaky cinema tent
against the approaching rainy season.
463
00:26:00,720 --> 00:26:04,390
Delhi has been heart-wrenching
and illuminating in equal measure.
464
00:26:04,440 --> 00:26:07,350
But now I have to collect
my thoughts, my inner self
465
00:26:07,400 --> 00:26:09,800
and my luggage, and head to the mountains.
466
00:26:14,520 --> 00:26:18,400
60 years ago, India gave
refuge to a god-king.
467
00:26:19,840 --> 00:26:21,830
High in the mountain town of Dharamsala
468
00:26:21,880 --> 00:26:25,040
lives one of the world's most
revered spiritual leaders.
469
00:26:26,040 --> 00:26:28,950
I want to ask him about
practically the meaning of life
470
00:26:29,000 --> 00:26:31,920
and what we should be doing
and, well, just everything.
471
00:26:42,220 --> 00:26:43,990
The greatest mountain range in the world
472
00:26:44,040 --> 00:26:46,120
stands along India's northern border.
473
00:26:49,040 --> 00:26:51,270
An hour's flight north from Delhi,
474
00:26:51,320 --> 00:26:53,590
nestled below the snowy Himalayan peaks,
475
00:26:53,640 --> 00:26:55,320
is Dharamsala.
476
00:26:57,240 --> 00:27:01,550
It feels great to be out of the city,
and I'm simply beyond excitement
477
00:27:01,600 --> 00:27:04,880
because I have an audience
with one of my greatest heroes.
478
00:27:09,040 --> 00:27:10,990
His residence is high in the mountains
479
00:27:11,040 --> 00:27:13,760
in a small town called McLeod Ganj.
480
00:27:17,040 --> 00:27:19,870
I'm very excited, a bit fluttery.
481
00:27:19,920 --> 00:27:22,870
I'm going to an audience with
His Holiness the Dalai Lama.
482
00:27:22,920 --> 00:27:26,470
It's a tremendous honour to be
allowed to bring the film crew in,
483
00:27:26,520 --> 00:27:30,840
and just talk to him, and
I want ask him about...
484
00:27:31,840 --> 00:27:34,790
.. practically the meaning of
life and what we should be doing
485
00:27:34,840 --> 00:27:36,750
and, well, just everything.
486
00:27:36,800 --> 00:27:40,200
And if anybody knows the answer,
I think it's the Dalai Lama.
487
00:27:51,560 --> 00:27:55,470
The Dalai Lama has been here
in India for the past 60 years,
488
00:27:55,520 --> 00:27:58,270
since his country was invaded by China
489
00:27:58,320 --> 00:28:00,470
and he had to flee in fear of his life
490
00:28:00,520 --> 00:28:02,520
on foot across the Himalayas.
491
00:28:05,920 --> 00:28:08,150
'The road on which the living Buddha
492
00:28:08,200 --> 00:28:11,190
was to end his amazing journey
led through thick jungle.
493
00:28:11,240 --> 00:28:15,030
'It was in fact the only track,
but the Dalai Lama and his escort
494
00:28:15,080 --> 00:28:18,030
must have appreciated it,
after the long mountain trek.'
495
00:28:20,440 --> 00:28:22,710
'A white scarf, in keeping
with Tibetan custom,
496
00:28:22,760 --> 00:28:25,430
was presented by the
Indian Government's envoy
497
00:28:25,480 --> 00:28:27,630
at this simple but very dramatic meeting.
498
00:28:27,680 --> 00:28:29,950
Smiling and perfectly composed,
499
00:28:30,000 --> 00:28:32,470
the young god-king showed
no signs of his ordeal,
500
00:28:32,520 --> 00:28:34,310
though he'd just completed perhaps
501
00:28:34,360 --> 00:28:36,840
the most exhausting journey in the world.'
502
00:28:38,760 --> 00:28:42,110
After escaping to India, His
Holiness carried on his role
503
00:28:42,160 --> 00:28:45,520
as leader of the Tibetan
people in exile here in India...
504
00:28:46,520 --> 00:28:48,590
.. and still receives a continual flow
505
00:28:48,640 --> 00:28:52,040
of pilgrims, well-wishers and
refugees from his homeland.
506
00:28:57,040 --> 00:29:00,120
I'm excited anyway, but
there's a family connection.
507
00:29:03,160 --> 00:29:06,190
Almost a hundred years ago,
my grandparents and my aunt
508
00:29:06,240 --> 00:29:08,230
met the 13th Dalai Lama,
509
00:29:08,280 --> 00:29:10,640
the man the present Dalai Lama succeeded.
510
00:29:17,280 --> 00:29:19,270
His Holiness is Buddhist,
511
00:29:19,320 --> 00:29:22,670
and he lives peacefully in this
predominantly Hindu country,
512
00:29:22,720 --> 00:29:25,320
which is also shared
by many other religions.
513
00:29:27,960 --> 00:29:30,270
Your Holiness...
514
00:29:30,320 --> 00:29:33,590
with all the religious
intolerance in the world,
515
00:29:33,640 --> 00:29:36,430
what is there that we -- as individuals --
516
00:29:36,480 --> 00:29:38,400
can do to counter this?
517
00:29:49,440 --> 00:29:52,350
Forgiveness, tolerance.
518
00:29:52,400 --> 00:29:55,110
Unfortunately, including Buddhism,
519
00:29:55,160 --> 00:29:57,550
sometimes we just take religion
520
00:29:57,600 --> 00:30:01,230
as something like a ritual or some prayer
521
00:30:01,280 --> 00:30:04,550
and not much pay attention,
not much seriously practise,
522
00:30:04,600 --> 00:30:07,710
about the real message of religion.
523
00:30:07,760 --> 00:30:09,550
So it is possible.
524
00:30:09,600 --> 00:30:12,110
- Yes.
- If you are sincere.
525
00:30:12,160 --> 00:30:13,910
I am Buddhist.
526
00:30:13,960 --> 00:30:16,070
I really admire Islam.
527
00:30:16,120 --> 00:30:18,270
Some people describe Islam
528
00:30:18,320 --> 00:30:20,230
as more militant, more negative.
529
00:30:20,280 --> 00:30:22,750
But look...
530
00:30:22,800 --> 00:30:25,750
over a thousand years
531
00:30:25,800 --> 00:30:29,750
how much Muslims bring, produce...
532
00:30:29,800 --> 00:30:32,350
nice, sensible human beings.
533
00:30:32,400 --> 00:30:34,270
Yes.
534
00:30:34,320 --> 00:30:37,630
Some mischievous people among the
Buddhist, among the Christian,
535
00:30:37,680 --> 00:30:40,310
- among the Jews, also there.
- Of course.
536
00:30:40,360 --> 00:30:42,870
So that's my thinking.
537
00:30:42,920 --> 00:30:45,350
So maybe, if we can't
have all one religion,
538
00:30:45,400 --> 00:30:47,270
we can at least have one compassion.
539
00:30:47,320 --> 00:30:48,870
That's right. That's right.
540
00:30:48,920 --> 00:30:52,630
Basic human nature is compassion.
541
00:30:52,680 --> 00:30:55,710
Compassion is much better than anger.
542
00:30:55,760 --> 00:30:57,510
Yes.
543
00:30:57,560 --> 00:30:59,510
You can ask scientists.
544
00:30:59,560 --> 00:31:01,910
They definitely say...
545
00:31:01,960 --> 00:31:04,790
more compassion in heart,
your physical is better.
546
00:31:04,840 --> 00:31:07,830
I think even we see your face --
547
00:31:07,880 --> 00:31:10,110
compassion there -- more smile.
548
00:31:10,160 --> 00:31:12,230
Anger there --
549
00:31:12,280 --> 00:31:17,830
even you see dogs or cats
also don't like angry face.
550
00:31:17,880 --> 00:31:21,190
No, they don't. We've been
travelling through India.
551
00:31:21,240 --> 00:31:24,790
And, Your Holiness, it may be
looking through rose-tinted glasses,
552
00:31:24,840 --> 00:31:29,950
but it seems that India is
happier than the Western world.
553
00:31:30,000 --> 00:31:34,350
And yet some of the people we've
met here in India are very poor.
554
00:31:34,400 --> 00:31:36,510
Can you be happy with almost nothing?
555
00:31:36,560 --> 00:31:41,670
I find, you see, when
I met some rich family,
556
00:31:41,720 --> 00:31:44,880
sometimes they're more sort of bright.
557
00:31:46,000 --> 00:31:48,830
Then poor Indian workers,
558
00:31:48,880 --> 00:31:50,670
very poor,
559
00:31:50,720 --> 00:31:53,670
when I shake hand, their face...
560
00:31:53,720 --> 00:31:55,720
peaceful, sincere.
561
00:31:58,880 --> 00:32:01,750
So accessing modern education
562
00:32:01,800 --> 00:32:04,630
I think creates more desire,
563
00:32:04,680 --> 00:32:06,790
more ambition
564
00:32:06,840 --> 00:32:10,000
and, ultimately, self-centred attitude.
565
00:32:13,800 --> 00:32:16,190
- So you introduce these things.
- I shall do.
566
00:32:19,760 --> 00:32:22,750
The role of the Dalai Lama
has been filled for centuries
567
00:32:22,800 --> 00:32:24,800
through a belief in reincarnation.
568
00:32:26,560 --> 00:32:28,640
The current Dalai Lama is the 14th...
569
00:32:29,280 --> 00:32:33,070
.. chosen at the age of two to
replace his predecessor the 13th,
570
00:32:33,120 --> 00:32:34,790
Thubten Gyatso,
571
00:32:34,840 --> 00:32:37,110
whom my grandfather Colonel Leslie Weir
572
00:32:37,160 --> 00:32:39,510
knew in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet,
573
00:32:39,560 --> 00:32:41,800
in the days when the country was free.
574
00:32:44,400 --> 00:32:48,270
Your Holiness, I want to bring this
to you because my grandfather was...
575
00:32:48,320 --> 00:32:50,320
Here, this is my grandfather.
576
00:32:51,640 --> 00:32:54,910
So he knew 13th Dalai Lama.
577
00:32:54,960 --> 00:32:58,030
And these are the articles
from before you were born.
578
00:32:58,080 --> 00:33:01,350
The Dalai Lama whose
reincarnation is awaited.
579
00:33:01,400 --> 00:33:03,430
So 13th Dalai Lama has passed away.
580
00:33:03,480 --> 00:33:06,630
- You haven't been born
yet, Holiness. - Right.
581
00:33:06,680 --> 00:33:08,790
Oh...
582
00:33:08,840 --> 00:33:10,910
that's right. Yes.
583
00:33:10,960 --> 00:33:12,830
And then...
584
00:33:12,880 --> 00:33:16,150
I was at a loss to think what to
get as a present for the great man,
585
00:33:16,200 --> 00:33:19,790
but I heard on the grapevine
that he loves gadgets.
586
00:33:19,840 --> 00:33:22,670
Holiness, we have got a present for you,
587
00:33:22,720 --> 00:33:24,950
which we hope that you like.
588
00:33:25,000 --> 00:33:28,440
- Ooh!
- It's a drone. It's to fly.
589
00:33:29,280 --> 00:33:31,350
- I saw.
- You've seen these.
590
00:33:31,400 --> 00:33:33,400
- We would love you to have this.
- Thank you.
591
00:33:34,840 --> 00:33:37,030
Thank you.
592
00:33:37,080 --> 00:33:39,190
Please give me one guarantee.
593
00:33:39,240 --> 00:33:41,590
This somehow mishandles,
594
00:33:41,640 --> 00:33:43,130
and hits my whole head!
595
00:33:44,680 --> 00:33:47,030
You should give me guarantee
596
00:33:47,080 --> 00:33:49,330
not that kind of thing happens.
597
00:33:50,080 --> 00:33:52,910
- Thank you so much for talking to us.
- Thank you. Thank you.
598
00:33:52,960 --> 00:33:55,630
I really appreciate. I really appreciate.
599
00:33:55,680 --> 00:33:58,710
- So you are very, very kind.
- Thank you so much.
600
00:33:58,760 --> 00:34:00,310
Thank you.
601
00:34:00,360 --> 00:34:03,510
And I think spirit --
your grandfather's spirit,
602
00:34:03,560 --> 00:34:05,590
- I think still carry.
- I think he does.
603
00:34:05,640 --> 00:34:07,310
- Ah.
- Ah.
604
00:34:07,360 --> 00:34:08,830
So...
605
00:34:08,880 --> 00:34:10,880
thank you.
606
00:34:25,480 --> 00:34:27,550
Honestly, it was such a privilege
607
00:34:27,600 --> 00:34:30,670
to have an audience with
His Holiness the Dalai Lama.
608
00:34:30,720 --> 00:34:33,470
I've come out of it
feeling completely calm,
609
00:34:33,520 --> 00:34:35,710
completely blessed
610
00:34:35,760 --> 00:34:38,470
and determined to be a
more compassionate person,
611
00:34:38,520 --> 00:34:40,520
to make something good of my life.
612
00:34:41,680 --> 00:34:45,950
My grandfather Leslie Weir, who
loved this part of the world so much,
613
00:34:46,000 --> 00:34:48,870
and who was such a close
friend of the 13th Dalai Lama,
614
00:34:48,920 --> 00:34:52,510
would be so proud and thrilled
to think that I'd had an audience
615
00:34:52,560 --> 00:34:55,600
with the 14th Dalai Lama
up here in Dharamsala.
616
00:35:03,320 --> 00:35:04,740
Blessed day.
617
00:35:16,520 --> 00:35:19,990
The end of our exploring will
be to arrive where we started
618
00:35:20,040 --> 00:35:22,240
and know the place for the first time.
619
00:35:24,200 --> 00:35:26,670
The last chapter of my journey is Kashmir,
620
00:35:26,720 --> 00:35:28,720
where I was born.
621
00:35:31,920 --> 00:35:35,240
The beauty of this region has
been renowned for centuries.
622
00:35:36,440 --> 00:35:40,110
But since India and Pakistan were
split apart in the Act of Partition
623
00:35:40,160 --> 00:35:43,360
in 1947, it's become a conflict zone.
624
00:35:44,320 --> 00:35:48,070
'The chief dispute
between Pakistan and India
625
00:35:48,120 --> 00:35:51,520
has centred on the Principality
of Kashmir in the north.
626
00:35:53,040 --> 00:35:55,190
'Behind its peaceful exterior,
627
00:35:55,240 --> 00:35:57,390
Kashmir has been a land of conflict.
628
00:35:57,440 --> 00:35:59,470
With Partition,
629
00:35:59,520 --> 00:36:02,550
its Muslim majority was
determined to join Pakistan,
630
00:36:02,600 --> 00:36:05,520
while its Hindu government
acceded to India.'
631
00:36:08,880 --> 00:36:11,950
Today there are half a million
Indian troops in Kashmir,
632
00:36:12,000 --> 00:36:15,910
trying to quell demands from a
powerful independence movement
633
00:36:15,960 --> 00:36:19,040
in a conflict that's killed 47,000 people.
634
00:36:22,000 --> 00:36:25,310
I'm thrilled to be in Srinagar,
the city where I was born,
635
00:36:25,360 --> 00:36:29,240
but it breaks my heart that this
beautiful land is now so troubled.
636
00:36:38,480 --> 00:36:41,630
Through the ages, the stunning
lakes have drawn people
637
00:36:41,680 --> 00:36:45,160
who want to shelter from the
summer heat of the Indian plains.
638
00:36:48,360 --> 00:36:51,110
Altaf has offered me
fabulous accommodation.
639
00:36:51,160 --> 00:36:54,230
- Oh, Altaf, look at this!
- Please welcome.
640
00:36:54,280 --> 00:36:56,710
Tell me when houseboats
first came to the lake.
641
00:36:56,760 --> 00:36:58,990
Well, around 1800s.
642
00:36:59,040 --> 00:37:01,550
This is an idea from the British Empire,
643
00:37:01,600 --> 00:37:04,790
when they were not allowed
to buy land in Kashmir,
644
00:37:04,840 --> 00:37:07,750
and they came with this fabulous
idea of making houseboats.
645
00:37:07,800 --> 00:37:11,910
What's happened? Because
tourism has fallen right off.
646
00:37:11,960 --> 00:37:15,750
Kashmir has a problem. It
has been a problem since...
647
00:37:15,800 --> 00:37:17,630
the making of India and Pakistan.
648
00:37:17,680 --> 00:37:20,310
Kashmir was neither part
of India or Pakistan.
649
00:37:20,360 --> 00:37:24,070
So when the Partition came, it
was sort of blocked on with India.
650
00:37:24,120 --> 00:37:25,630
Absolutely, yeah.
651
00:37:25,680 --> 00:37:28,310
And, yes, many people here would say that
652
00:37:28,360 --> 00:37:30,430
that was not really the right thing to do.
653
00:37:30,480 --> 00:37:33,470
But -- looking at a
business point of view --
654
00:37:33,520 --> 00:37:36,150
I think it's really
great to be with India.
655
00:37:36,200 --> 00:37:37,870
Because?
656
00:37:37,920 --> 00:37:41,350
Because of the growth in India,
which is really big at the moment.
657
00:37:41,400 --> 00:37:43,390
People will come, won't they?
658
00:37:43,440 --> 00:37:45,670
- It's just heavenly.
- Heaven, yeah.
659
00:37:45,720 --> 00:37:48,070
My parents were married here in Srinagar,
660
00:37:48,120 --> 00:37:50,510
and they had a honeymoon
on one of these houseboats.
661
00:37:50,560 --> 00:37:52,830
- Oh, how wonderful.
- Goodness knows which one.
662
00:37:52,880 --> 00:37:55,350
But they simply adored
this part of the world.
663
00:37:55,400 --> 00:37:58,230
I'm so proud of being a Kashmiri.
I boast about it all the time.
664
00:37:58,280 --> 00:38:01,150
People say, 'What can you
remember?' and you say, 'Nothing.'
665
00:38:08,040 --> 00:38:09,710
Shalimar -- this is me.
666
00:38:09,760 --> 00:38:11,270
Come in.
667
00:38:11,320 --> 00:38:14,030
This is my room. I mean,
look at this room.
668
00:38:14,080 --> 00:38:16,510
Gorgeous little flowers
sprinkled on the bed.
669
00:38:16,560 --> 00:38:18,350
And here,
670
00:38:18,400 --> 00:38:20,870
this is Mummy and Daddy
on their wedding day.
671
00:38:20,920 --> 00:38:23,990
And this would have been here
in Srinagar at the church.
672
00:38:24,040 --> 00:38:26,760
Isn't that just too sweet for words?
673
00:38:28,560 --> 00:38:31,670
Those are sweet pictures. That
was Mummy on her wedding day here.
674
00:38:31,720 --> 00:38:33,390
But this is the picture of me.
675
00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:35,910
That's about what I looked
like when I left here.
676
00:38:35,960 --> 00:38:39,200
In some way, pretty
similar to how I am now.
677
00:38:40,640 --> 00:38:42,630
Slightly fat face, grinning.
678
00:38:42,680 --> 00:38:44,990
With... on top.
679
00:38:45,040 --> 00:38:47,040
So not much changed.
680
00:38:48,400 --> 00:38:50,230
In the summertime,
681
00:38:50,280 --> 00:38:53,190
the lakes are covered with
lilies and lotus blossom,
682
00:38:53,240 --> 00:38:56,310
which women in small boats
collect for cattle fodder.
683
00:38:56,360 --> 00:39:00,640
Now it's early spring --
and perfect for vegetables.
684
00:39:06,840 --> 00:39:08,590
It's just before dawn,
685
00:39:08,640 --> 00:39:10,390
and I've hitched a ride in a shikara
686
00:39:10,440 --> 00:39:13,470
to find the floating market
that's been happening here
687
00:39:13,520 --> 00:39:15,800
every morning for over a hundred years.
688
00:39:21,600 --> 00:39:24,950
So this is the vegetable market
in the early morning. Whoo!
689
00:39:25,000 --> 00:39:28,630
I'm in danger of being speared
by these huge boats which come.
690
00:39:28,680 --> 00:39:30,680
Argh!
691
00:39:31,640 --> 00:39:35,310
And they just appear to be
selling leaves to each other.
692
00:39:35,360 --> 00:39:37,910
They weigh some leaves and
look at each other's leaves
693
00:39:37,960 --> 00:39:40,590
and say disparagingly,
'Those leaves are no good.'
694
00:39:40,640 --> 00:39:43,710
Look, a bit of haggling over
leaves. Good leaves, bad leaves.
695
00:39:43,760 --> 00:39:45,760
It's fabulous.
696
00:39:47,160 --> 00:39:50,310
This market has proved impervious
not only to army curfews
697
00:39:50,360 --> 00:39:52,390
but also to the devastating floods
698
00:39:52,440 --> 00:39:55,160
that three years ago
destroyed this whole area.
699
00:39:56,920 --> 00:39:58,590
Excuse me, sir.
700
00:39:58,640 --> 00:40:00,640
Can I buy some?
701
00:40:01,480 --> 00:40:04,430
Can I have some of these? Huh?
702
00:40:04,480 --> 00:40:07,430
The traders usually
barter with each other,
703
00:40:07,480 --> 00:40:09,840
but seem delighted to take my cash.
704
00:40:11,120 --> 00:40:12,390
Thank you. ~
705
00:40:13,440 --> 00:40:15,590
Goodbye. Goodbye.
706
00:40:15,640 --> 00:40:19,630
Mr Wonderful, do you have
any blue poppy seeds?
707
00:40:19,680 --> 00:40:21,790
- I have three colours.
- Blue-ier, blue-y.
708
00:40:21,840 --> 00:40:24,230
- .. green poppy and blue.
- I'd love them.
709
00:40:24,280 --> 00:40:28,430
I have such a disappointing
record with poppies every year.
710
00:40:28,480 --> 00:40:30,350
Oh, look, here it is.
711
00:40:30,400 --> 00:40:32,230
Who does not want to buy that?
712
00:40:32,280 --> 00:40:34,470
- How much will that be?
- 6,000 rupees.
713
00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:36,190
6,000?!
714
00:40:36,240 --> 00:40:39,350
Rupees. Rupees. 6,000 rupees. 20 packet.
715
00:40:39,400 --> 00:40:41,080
I don't want 20 packets.
716
00:40:41,160 --> 00:40:43,550
- Ten packets?
- Five packets.
717
00:40:43,600 --> 00:40:47,310
Actually, I don't know why I'm
being so mean. I went to the ATM,
718
00:40:47,360 --> 00:40:49,550
and I got out stacks of money.
719
00:40:49,600 --> 00:40:52,470
There's something
unbelievably mean about me.
720
00:40:52,520 --> 00:40:54,790
I'm quite mean.
721
00:40:54,840 --> 00:40:57,870
I think I'd be quite happy with
a garden just full of poppies.
722
00:40:57,920 --> 00:40:59,630
I saw a film in the '60s called...
723
00:40:59,680 --> 00:41:03,070
It was Fellini, and it was
called Giulietta Degli Spiriti,
724
00:41:03,120 --> 00:41:06,070
and it was a pretty, like, trippy film.
725
00:41:06,120 --> 00:41:08,070
And they had great poppies.
726
00:41:08,120 --> 00:41:10,110
Perfect.
727
00:41:10,160 --> 00:41:12,230
I am VERY happy.
728
00:41:12,280 --> 00:41:15,110
- When people happy, I am happy.
- I'm happy.
729
00:41:15,160 --> 00:41:17,160
- God is happy.
- This is the way it is.
730
00:41:31,160 --> 00:41:33,150
The old town of Sirinaka -- unlike me --
731
00:41:33,200 --> 00:41:36,720
appears not to have changed for 70 years.
732
00:41:37,480 --> 00:41:40,910
It's extraordinary. It feels like
a completely different country.
733
00:41:40,960 --> 00:41:44,000
It doesn't feel like India at all here.
734
00:41:44,440 --> 00:41:46,590
It just feels... Well,
it feels like Kashmir.
735
00:41:46,640 --> 00:41:49,070
That's the truth of it.
It's mostly Muslim.
736
00:41:49,120 --> 00:41:51,030
Gorgeous fresh vegetables.
737
00:41:51,080 --> 00:41:53,110
Sad butcher's shop, which I don't look at.
738
00:41:53,160 --> 00:41:55,350
But then I look at
gorgeous vegetables again.
739
00:41:55,400 --> 00:41:58,920
The architecture is different
and the air's different and...
740
00:41:59,880 --> 00:42:02,550
Puppy dog... Puppies are different.
741
00:42:02,600 --> 00:42:04,550
Well, actually, puppies are the same.
742
00:42:05,300 --> 00:42:07,040
Call to prayer.
743
00:42:17,960 --> 00:42:21,080
There's a place across town
that I really want to visit.
744
00:42:27,720 --> 00:42:30,110
Well, this is extraordinary to be back
745
00:42:30,160 --> 00:42:32,790
at what was the Residency in Sirinaka.
746
00:42:32,840 --> 00:42:35,950
It's now the Kashmir
Government Arts Emporium.
747
00:42:36,000 --> 00:42:38,430
But this is where my
grandparents lived for a bit,
748
00:42:38,480 --> 00:42:40,870
where my mother and father
were certainly married.
749
00:42:40,920 --> 00:42:43,710
They would have had their
wedding reception here.
750
00:42:43,760 --> 00:42:46,350
When I was a little baby
and I'd been born here
751
00:42:46,400 --> 00:42:49,190
on the Gupta Road in
the Mission Hospital --
752
00:42:49,240 --> 00:42:51,350
little baby, I would have been here.
753
00:42:51,400 --> 00:42:54,230
And then there was a tragedy,
and the building burnt down,
754
00:42:54,280 --> 00:42:56,310
and was rebuilt in the 1990s.
755
00:42:56,360 --> 00:42:59,270
They've sort of kept it
to what it looked like,
756
00:42:59,320 --> 00:43:02,750
which you've got to admit is
Surrey stockbrokers' belt.
757
00:43:02,800 --> 00:43:04,430
It is. Look at it.
758
00:43:04,480 --> 00:43:06,870
What happened to the British
-- we used to come abroad
759
00:43:06,920 --> 00:43:09,470
with the most heavenly
architecture available to us,
760
00:43:09,520 --> 00:43:11,990
and say, 'I think we'll put
a little bit of home here.'
761
00:43:12,040 --> 00:43:13,750
Anyway, this is what it looked like.
762
00:43:13,800 --> 00:43:15,750
It's so gorgeous to be back and to think,
763
00:43:15,800 --> 00:43:18,150
even though I was just a -- just a baby,
764
00:43:18,200 --> 00:43:21,710
with teeth growing, probably crying
through the night with pink cheeks,
765
00:43:21,760 --> 00:43:23,760
I was sleeping in here.
766
00:43:28,440 --> 00:43:33,040
Kashmir is a very fitting place
to end this immense journey.
767
00:43:35,520 --> 00:43:38,870
Starting in the southern-most
state of Tamil Nadu,
768
00:43:38,920 --> 00:43:42,430
we've travelled over 5,000 miles
around this mesmerising country,
769
00:43:42,480 --> 00:43:44,270
and now we're finally drawn
770
00:43:44,320 --> 00:43:47,030
to the foothills of the
Himalayas in the extreme north.
771
00:43:47,080 --> 00:43:48,870
Oh!
772
00:43:48,920 --> 00:43:50,920
Wow!
773
00:43:55,240 --> 00:43:57,240
This is the Vale of Kashmir.
774
00:43:58,200 --> 00:44:00,510
All spread out with memories of my family.
775
00:44:00,560 --> 00:44:04,390
You can see the soft lakes
and rivers joining up
776
00:44:04,440 --> 00:44:07,110
and behind them the white
snows of the Himalayas.
777
00:44:07,160 --> 00:44:09,750
And this is the end of
our extraordinary journey.
778
00:44:09,800 --> 00:44:12,430
Just to think, we started at Kanyakumari
779
00:44:12,480 --> 00:44:14,950
right down in the southern tip of India,
780
00:44:15,000 --> 00:44:16,910
and then it just seemed to explode.
781
00:44:16,960 --> 00:44:19,920
We went up to Madurai and
saw fabulous temples.
782
00:44:21,120 --> 00:44:24,830
India has shown me such incredible
diversity, optimism and tolerance.
783
00:44:24,880 --> 00:44:28,320
It really is a unique
and glorious country.
784
00:44:29,160 --> 00:44:32,350
We went into tea plantations
and followed wild elephants,
785
00:44:32,400 --> 00:44:34,990
who suddenly appeared especially for us.
786
00:44:35,040 --> 00:44:38,150
We went up to Hyderabad.
Extraordinary city.
787
00:44:38,200 --> 00:44:41,030
I was made into a goddess.
Pretty much liked that.
788
00:44:41,080 --> 00:44:42,750
We went to Calcutta,
789
00:44:42,800 --> 00:44:46,630
and there we went into something
out of a kind of Dickens dream.
790
00:44:46,680 --> 00:44:48,710
The jute mill.
791
00:44:48,760 --> 00:44:52,510
The country faces huge problems
of poverty and population growth,
792
00:44:52,560 --> 00:44:55,190
but it's on the cusp of
becoming a superpower --
793
00:44:55,240 --> 00:44:58,070
and its potential is immeasurable.
794
00:44:58,120 --> 00:45:00,670
We went to Gujarat in the
west part of the country,
795
00:45:00,720 --> 00:45:03,590
and we went to a Dalit community
who were so friendly to us,
796
00:45:03,640 --> 00:45:06,390
but eye-opening how
some people have to live.
797
00:45:06,440 --> 00:45:08,790
The tragedies of the Dalit community.
798
00:45:08,840 --> 00:45:13,110
But then we went to stay in a palace,
799
00:45:13,160 --> 00:45:15,350
with a Maharaja, which was extraordinary,
800
00:45:15,400 --> 00:45:17,590
and his old palace, because
most of us have two --
801
00:45:17,640 --> 00:45:20,190
the new and the old -- his
old palace up on the hill,
802
00:45:20,240 --> 00:45:23,440
had the finest wall
paintings known in India.
803
00:45:24,800 --> 00:45:26,750
Honestly, India...
804
00:45:26,800 --> 00:45:28,800
India has got everything.
805
00:45:30,000 --> 00:45:32,000
You'd be mad not to come here.
64690
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