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1
00:00:04,375 --> 00:00:06,458
(ATMOSPHERIC MUSIC)
2
00:00:07,896 --> 00:00:09,980
(BRIGHT, RISING MUSIC)
3
00:00:13,213 --> 00:00:15,296
(GENTLE FLUTE MUSIC)
4
00:00:21,027 --> 00:00:23,111
♪ Om...
5
00:00:23,136 --> 00:00:25,219
♪ namah Shivaya.
6
00:00:25,753 --> 00:00:27,836
(GENTLE FLUTE MUSIC)
7
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♪ Om...
8
00:00:32,495 --> 00:00:34,578
♪ namah Shivaya.
9
00:00:34,867 --> 00:00:36,950
(PENSIVE SITAR MUSIC)
10
00:00:38,117 --> 00:00:40,200
♪ Om...
11
00:00:41,317 --> 00:00:43,400
♪ namah Shivaya. ♪
12
00:00:46,004 --> 00:00:48,798
What an incredible
journey we were on.
13
00:00:48,823 --> 00:00:51,240
India was flowing by.
14
00:00:51,803 --> 00:00:53,732
We were halfway
through the journey.
15
00:00:53,757 --> 00:00:57,007
The Himalayas were
still out in front.
16
00:00:57,237 --> 00:00:59,390
But what had happened
in the past
17
00:00:59,415 --> 00:01:02,232
was still very heavily
upon our hearts.
18
00:01:02,257 --> 00:01:04,348
(HAUNTING FLUTE MUSIC)
19
00:01:04,373 --> 00:01:05,562
(FLAMES CRACKLE)
20
00:01:05,587 --> 00:01:06,968
(RISING MUSIC)
21
00:01:08,426 --> 00:01:11,551
And in a more distant past,
two big moments
22
00:01:11,576 --> 00:01:14,075
really had combined
to bring us here.
23
00:01:14,100 --> 00:01:16,184
(DRAMATIC MUSIC)
24
00:01:20,290 --> 00:01:22,123
(MUSIC SWELLS)
25
00:01:22,888 --> 00:01:27,153
In 1953, Mt Everest was first
climbed by Tenzing Norgay
26
00:01:27,178 --> 00:01:29,887
and my father, Edmund Hillary.
27
00:01:31,540 --> 00:01:34,303
In that same year,
in New Zealand,
28
00:01:34,366 --> 00:01:37,825
a radical new kind of
boat was invented -
29
00:01:38,379 --> 00:01:41,879
the jet boat - a boat
that blasts up rapids,
30
00:01:41,904 --> 00:01:45,324
propelled and steered
simply by a jet of water.
31
00:01:45,349 --> 00:01:47,432
(ENGINE ROARS)
32
00:01:49,650 --> 00:01:51,900
In these boats,
my father, you know,
33
00:01:51,925 --> 00:01:54,254
climber of the Himalayas'
greatest mountain,
34
00:01:54,279 --> 00:01:56,652
would also try to be
the first to climb
35
00:01:56,677 --> 00:02:00,105
the Himalayas' greatest
river, the Ganges.
36
00:02:00,448 --> 00:02:02,531
(RISING MUSIC)
37
00:02:02,556 --> 00:02:04,638
(DRAMATIC MUSIC)
38
00:02:04,851 --> 00:02:06,934
(ENGINE ROARS)
39
00:02:12,864 --> 00:02:14,948
(BELL RINGS)
40
00:02:15,624 --> 00:02:18,827
(SOLEMN CHANTING)
41
00:02:20,313 --> 00:02:22,014
For my father and I, though,
42
00:02:22,039 --> 00:02:24,705
the journey would be
deeply personal -
43
00:02:24,734 --> 00:02:27,359
for the turbulence
of the rapids we faced
44
00:02:27,359 --> 00:02:31,640
would be nothing to the
turbulence of our recent past.
45
00:02:31,665 --> 00:02:34,477
You know, really,
for my father and for me,
46
00:02:34,502 --> 00:02:36,290
we were on a pilgrimage -
47
00:02:36,290 --> 00:02:39,503
not just a Hindu pilgrimage
up the river,
48
00:02:39,528 --> 00:02:41,620
but one of, uh,
49
00:02:41,645 --> 00:02:46,832
trying to deal with the losses
of my mother and sister.
50
00:02:46,857 --> 00:02:49,024
(POIGNANT CHORAL MUSIC)
51
00:02:51,329 --> 00:02:53,870
And on this journey,
on his final climb,
52
00:02:53,870 --> 00:02:57,829
my father, too, would
stare death in the face.
53
00:02:59,120 --> 00:03:01,162
I'd lost my mother and sister.
54
00:03:01,162 --> 00:03:05,037
Here I was high in
the Himalayas again.
55
00:03:05,564 --> 00:03:08,689
Was I about to lose
my father as well?
56
00:03:08,714 --> 00:03:10,798
(BREATHES HEAVILY)
57
00:03:10,823 --> 00:03:12,906
(SOLEMN MUSIC)
58
00:03:16,233 --> 00:03:18,316
(ENGINE ROARS)
59
00:03:20,108 --> 00:03:21,384
(LAUGHTER)
60
00:03:21,409 --> 00:03:23,492
(UPBEAT MUSIC)
61
00:03:24,649 --> 00:03:26,753
And yet, for
the rest of his life,
62
00:03:26,778 --> 00:03:29,082
Dad always said
that this was the best,
63
00:03:29,107 --> 00:03:32,815
the most memorable
expedition of them all -
64
00:03:34,009 --> 00:03:37,342
this journey from
the ocean to the sky.
65
00:03:37,367 --> 00:03:40,649
(UPLIFTING MUSIC)
66
00:03:53,671 --> 00:03:55,754
(FANFARE)
67
00:03:55,779 --> 00:03:57,977
(EXCITING ORCHESTRAL MUSIC)
68
00:03:59,421 --> 00:04:01,504
Oh blast!
69
00:04:02,629 --> 00:04:06,545
ANNOUNCER: 'These are
River Jets from Hamilton.
70
00:04:06,570 --> 00:04:09,779
They go where no other
boats will go,
71
00:04:10,063 --> 00:04:13,397
planing in a scant
4 inches of water.'
72
00:04:13,397 --> 00:04:15,480
(ENGINE RUMBLES)
73
00:04:17,288 --> 00:04:20,246
Jetboats were invented
by my granddad,
74
00:04:20,271 --> 00:04:23,397
Bill Hamilton, back in 1953.
75
00:04:24,105 --> 00:04:26,772
He wanted to get up into
the back-country waters
76
00:04:26,814 --> 00:04:29,816
of New Zealand and explore
the rivers there,
77
00:04:29,824 --> 00:04:33,729
and he did that with his son,
Jon Hamilton, my father.
78
00:04:33,768 --> 00:04:38,768
Together they explored many
of the rivers in New Zealand.
79
00:04:38,833 --> 00:04:40,500
ANNOUNCER: 'As those who
followed motor racing
80
00:04:40,500 --> 00:04:44,292
in the '20s will know, speed is
nothing new to Bill Hamilton.
81
00:04:44,292 --> 00:04:46,875
But speeding under power
down a rapid river,
82
00:04:46,875 --> 00:04:49,250
where it has just cut a new
channel through willows,
83
00:04:49,250 --> 00:04:51,875
is something new to anybody.
84
00:04:51,941 --> 00:04:54,709
On turns, the boat
banks correctly.
85
00:04:54,741 --> 00:04:58,366
Now upstream again. With
plenty of power, agile steering
86
00:04:58,366 --> 00:05:00,324
and no propeller to be fouled,
87
00:05:00,324 --> 00:05:02,781
this is an invention that can
open up new holiday territory
88
00:05:03,116 --> 00:05:07,157
along many a hitherto
un-navigable torrent.'
89
00:05:07,157 --> 00:05:09,241
(ENGINE ROARS)
90
00:05:11,116 --> 00:05:13,282
(EXCITING VIOLIN MUSIC)
91
00:05:17,866 --> 00:05:20,366
(EXCITING MUSIC CONTINUES)
92
00:05:21,823 --> 00:05:24,698
'At 20 knots, channels
must be spotted quickly.
93
00:05:24,698 --> 00:05:26,407
Power comes from
a motorcar engine
94
00:05:26,407 --> 00:05:31,490
driving the special centrifugal
pump, which feeds the jet.'
95
00:05:31,490 --> 00:05:33,990
(EXCITING MUSIC CONTINUES)
96
00:05:37,318 --> 00:05:40,151
'And so there he goes against
more currents than one -
97
00:05:40,151 --> 00:05:42,818
an outstanding industrialist
and inventor
98
00:05:42,818 --> 00:05:45,526
whose choice it is to live
far from the cities,
99
00:05:45,526 --> 00:05:47,609
through the snowy winters
and dry summers
100
00:05:47,609 --> 00:05:50,026
of the remote
Mackenzie plains.'
101
00:05:50,026 --> 00:05:52,109
(LAUGHTER)
102
00:05:52,134 --> 00:05:54,890
(GRAVEL GRATES)
103
00:05:59,266 --> 00:06:02,057
My dad became
a very good driver,
104
00:06:02,283 --> 00:06:06,116
and in 1960, he led
an expedition to America,
105
00:06:06,318 --> 00:06:08,776
and they ran up through
the Grand Canyon
106
00:06:08,776 --> 00:06:12,526
on the Colorado River,
through the big rapids there -
107
00:06:12,526 --> 00:06:14,936
the only time it has
ever been done.
108
00:06:14,961 --> 00:06:16,819
(DRAMATIC MUSIC)
109
00:06:16,844 --> 00:06:18,927
(ENGINE ROARS)
110
00:06:23,514 --> 00:06:26,949
(INTENSE MUSIC)
111
00:06:38,168 --> 00:06:41,627
ANNOUNCER: 'The first boat ever
is over the lip of Vulcan.
112
00:06:41,627 --> 00:06:43,127
A rooster tail
of jetboat victory
113
00:06:43,127 --> 00:06:46,043
was never more proudly thrown.'
114
00:06:47,189 --> 00:06:48,786
Ed got very interested
in Jetboats,
115
00:06:48,811 --> 00:06:52,082
cos he was always interested
in technological stuff.
116
00:06:52,107 --> 00:06:53,191
He liked-
117
00:06:53,216 --> 00:06:55,982
For example, he liked taking
tractors to the South Pole,
118
00:06:56,007 --> 00:06:58,137
for example, as opposed
to taking dogs.
119
00:06:58,153 --> 00:07:01,320
And when he came across
Jetboats in the South Island,
120
00:07:01,328 --> 00:07:02,578
He suddenly thought,
121
00:07:02,578 --> 00:07:04,762
'Yes, I could use these
in Nepal,'
122
00:07:04,787 --> 00:07:08,811
and he had this idea that he
could create a transport network
123
00:07:08,836 --> 00:07:13,224
of Jetboats running from
India up to Kathmandu.
124
00:07:14,192 --> 00:07:16,775
So some years before
his Ganges expedition,
125
00:07:16,775 --> 00:07:19,359
he took two Jetboats to Nepal -
126
00:07:19,400 --> 00:07:22,472
one driven by
the inventor's son, Jon,
127
00:07:22,519 --> 00:07:26,171
and the other driven by an old
climbing friend, Jim Wilson.
128
00:07:26,925 --> 00:07:30,064
Well, Ed was, above all,
an adventurer.
129
00:07:30,080 --> 00:07:31,455
And he just loved
having adventures
130
00:07:31,455 --> 00:07:33,914
with his close friends.
131
00:07:33,914 --> 00:07:36,830
And I think he thought that
since he'd driven tractors
132
00:07:36,830 --> 00:07:39,830
to the South Pole
with his friends,
133
00:07:39,838 --> 00:07:42,016
so we could drive Jetboats.
134
00:07:42,032 --> 00:07:44,991
And he came up with
the idea of trying to go
135
00:07:44,991 --> 00:07:50,199
up the Sun Kosi River, from
the Indian border, to Kathmandu.
136
00:07:50,479 --> 00:07:53,229
He said that this might be a
very good form of transport,
137
00:07:53,229 --> 00:07:54,739
local transport.
138
00:07:54,763 --> 00:07:57,263
I suspect that was an
excuse for an adventure,
139
00:07:57,263 --> 00:07:59,519
but I think he was
semi-serious about it.
140
00:08:00,649 --> 00:08:02,733
We took Jon Hamilton
as chief driver, of course -
141
00:08:02,733 --> 00:08:04,890
the best jetboat driver
in the world.
142
00:08:04,913 --> 00:08:06,788
But he decided that one
of his mates should drive
143
00:08:06,788 --> 00:08:11,320
the second boat, and for various
reasons, the lot fell to me,
144
00:08:11,453 --> 00:08:13,953
and I duly rewarded him
for this privilege
145
00:08:13,978 --> 00:08:17,080
by sinking one of the Jetboats,
halving his fleet.
146
00:08:17,174 --> 00:08:19,452
(LAUGHS) Yes.
147
00:08:20,928 --> 00:08:24,178
It was flat water for
the first kilometer,
148
00:08:24,178 --> 00:08:26,053
and then it turned into rapids,
149
00:08:26,053 --> 00:08:28,387
and they became more
and more violent, the rapids.
150
00:08:28,387 --> 00:08:30,779
And the boats were having to go
backwards and forwards.
151
00:08:30,998 --> 00:08:32,873
It was fairly lively water,
152
00:08:32,873 --> 00:08:35,331
and I hadn't had much
experience at all.
153
00:08:35,331 --> 00:08:38,698
And we came to two
really big standing waves
154
00:08:38,770 --> 00:08:42,145
with a very, very big dip
between them.
155
00:08:42,186 --> 00:08:46,311
Jon, of course, got to the top
and instantly knew what to do
156
00:08:46,311 --> 00:08:49,064
and gunned the boat
and leapt the gap.
157
00:08:49,138 --> 00:08:53,597
Jetboats can hover motionless to
the bank on fast enough water.
158
00:08:53,597 --> 00:08:56,296
I'd go into the habit of coming
to the top of the wave
159
00:08:56,335 --> 00:08:57,585
and pausing to
have a look around
160
00:08:57,585 --> 00:08:59,106
to see what I might do next.
161
00:08:59,434 --> 00:09:02,809
And this was fatal, because I
didn't have enough momentum.
162
00:09:02,809 --> 00:09:06,288
When I gunned the boat, its bow
pointed down into the dip,
163
00:09:06,429 --> 00:09:09,240
and I drove it straight
into the next wave.
164
00:09:09,819 --> 00:09:13,069
I was in the front boat,
driven by Jon Hamilton,
165
00:09:13,069 --> 00:09:16,270
and Jon was saying,
'I hope Jim is all right.'
166
00:09:16,301 --> 00:09:20,884
I kept looking behind me,
and I said, 'They're sinking!'
167
00:09:20,909 --> 00:09:22,374
And the boat disappeared.
168
00:09:22,399 --> 00:09:24,993
(MENACING MUSIC)
169
00:09:28,677 --> 00:09:30,719
So I crawled out of the water
170
00:09:30,719 --> 00:09:33,886
and went up the bank
to apologise to Ed.
171
00:09:33,886 --> 00:09:37,157
But one of the many things
I love about Ed is that
172
00:09:37,180 --> 00:09:41,222
as long as he thinks that
you've done your best,
173
00:09:41,235 --> 00:09:42,568
he'll never blame you.
174
00:09:42,568 --> 00:09:46,417
And all he said was, 'C'est la
vie,' French for, 'That's life.'
175
00:09:46,810 --> 00:09:49,977
Now, I'd halved his fleet, but
he forgave me just like that,
176
00:09:49,977 --> 00:09:52,185
and being Ed,
simply reorganized,
177
00:09:52,185 --> 00:09:54,227
and we did the rest of
the trip up the Sun Kosi
178
00:09:54,227 --> 00:09:56,320
with just the one boat.
179
00:09:57,001 --> 00:10:00,292
The idea came to Ed that
if a tributary of the Ganges,
180
00:10:00,292 --> 00:10:03,634
of Mother Ganga, had
given us such excitement,
181
00:10:03,650 --> 00:10:06,401
how would it be to drive
Jetboats up the whole length
182
00:10:06,408 --> 00:10:09,658
of the Holy River? We'd almost
be making a pilgrimage,
183
00:10:09,658 --> 00:10:13,741
and we'd be going through
the land we'd all grown to love.
184
00:10:13,741 --> 00:10:16,866
And so the Ocean to Sky trip
was born.
185
00:10:19,952 --> 00:10:22,202
This time, there would
be three boats.
186
00:10:22,202 --> 00:10:24,927
Jon Hamilton again would
be the chief driver.
187
00:10:24,958 --> 00:10:28,625
Mike, his son, the driver
of the second boat.
188
00:10:28,625 --> 00:10:32,622
And Ed, ever forgiving, chose
me to be the third driver -
189
00:10:32,638 --> 00:10:34,187
the driver of the third boat.
190
00:10:34,351 --> 00:10:36,685
And also, rather
tongue in cheek,
191
00:10:36,685 --> 00:10:40,865
since I had a PhD in Hinduism
from an Indian university,
192
00:10:40,873 --> 00:10:44,023
he appointed me spiritual
adviser to the expedition.
193
00:10:49,116 --> 00:10:53,366
My first piece of advice as
so-called spiritual adviser
194
00:10:53,366 --> 00:10:56,631
was that we had to start
the trip at Ganga Sagar -
195
00:10:56,654 --> 00:10:59,321
where the Ganga
meets Sagar, the sea.
196
00:10:59,346 --> 00:11:02,137
This is the divinely
sanctioned starting point
197
00:11:02,137 --> 00:11:04,721
for pilgrimage up the Ganges.
198
00:11:04,762 --> 00:11:06,304
And to go on pilgrimage
in India,
199
00:11:06,304 --> 00:11:09,627
you must have a religious
blessing before you start.
200
00:11:09,643 --> 00:11:14,350
Fortunately, there was a very
charming pujari - Hindu priest -
201
00:11:14,373 --> 00:11:18,831
and he willingly agreed to
come and bless our boats.
202
00:11:20,648 --> 00:11:21,731
As an additional safeguard
203
00:11:21,731 --> 00:11:24,449
against my lack of
driving skill, yeah,...
204
00:11:26,512 --> 00:11:28,553
he put the tika on the foreheads
205
00:11:28,578 --> 00:11:30,961
of all the members
of the expedition.
206
00:11:32,516 --> 00:11:35,766
But it gave me a great feeling
of well-being to be blessed
207
00:11:35,766 --> 00:11:37,996
by this wonderful
little Hindu pujari.
208
00:11:38,019 --> 00:11:39,603
And then he took
a wee while to decide
209
00:11:39,603 --> 00:11:42,228
what was the forehead
of a jetboat.
210
00:11:42,228 --> 00:11:44,311
I think he decided the bow,
211
00:11:44,311 --> 00:11:45,809
but it might have been
the windscreen.
212
00:11:45,990 --> 00:11:48,657
But he did a wonderful
puja for us.
213
00:11:48,657 --> 00:11:52,183
I thought he behaved as if he
was blessing Jetboats every day.
214
00:11:52,214 --> 00:11:55,505
And he just put it on
the nose of the jetboat,
215
00:11:55,530 --> 00:11:58,072
and we took off into the surf.
216
00:11:58,197 --> 00:12:00,364
(UPBEAT CARNATIC MUSIC)
217
00:12:03,624 --> 00:12:05,166
Jon Hamilton,
218
00:12:05,166 --> 00:12:08,291
as the expert on Jetboats,
hated...
219
00:12:09,632 --> 00:12:11,715
the sea for jet boating,
220
00:12:12,548 --> 00:12:15,704
and so the waves were getting
bigger and bigger.
221
00:12:16,009 --> 00:12:20,593
I'd never driven in surf before,
and I hit a huge wave.
222
00:12:22,110 --> 00:12:26,568
And there was a terribly
expensive noise at the back
223
00:12:27,735 --> 00:12:30,776
as the engine leapt
off its mounts.
224
00:12:33,426 --> 00:12:36,176
Ed, who never misses
a chance to tease, said,
225
00:12:36,176 --> 00:12:38,296
'So much for your puja, Jim!'
226
00:12:38,406 --> 00:12:40,406
I snapped back at him,
'If it wasn't for the puja,
227
00:12:40,406 --> 00:12:43,271
'we wouldn't have got
past the first wave!'
228
00:12:45,360 --> 00:12:47,776
(LAUGHS)
To add to the challenge,
229
00:12:47,776 --> 00:12:50,151
Ed had a young film crew - us!
230
00:12:50,860 --> 00:12:53,526
Waka and I were beside
ourselves with excitement
231
00:12:53,526 --> 00:12:55,651
to be on this magic carpet ride
232
00:12:55,676 --> 00:12:58,788
with our hero, Ed Hillary,
and his friends -
233
00:12:59,390 --> 00:13:01,098
Sherpa friends,
234
00:13:01,123 --> 00:13:03,082
Indian friends,
235
00:13:03,082 --> 00:13:06,303
mountaineers like Graeme Dingle
and Murray Jones -
236
00:13:06,475 --> 00:13:08,823
biding their time until
the river turned to ice.
237
00:13:08,848 --> 00:13:11,139
(UPBEAT MUSIC CONTINUES)
238
00:13:14,614 --> 00:13:17,514
And Ed's son, Peter,
was with us too.
239
00:13:18,311 --> 00:13:20,478
The trip was actually planned
with my mother,
240
00:13:20,478 --> 00:13:23,270
and I think they felt
it would be this wonderful,
241
00:13:23,270 --> 00:13:27,320
expeditionary adventure
that they could share together.
242
00:13:29,957 --> 00:13:31,776
Look, I couldn't
believe my luck.
243
00:13:31,808 --> 00:13:34,308
I mean, obviously, it was
my father who was leading it,
244
00:13:34,308 --> 00:13:37,689
and was a special time
for the Hillary family.
245
00:13:37,710 --> 00:13:42,000
My mother and sister had
recently died, and in some ways,
246
00:13:42,039 --> 00:13:45,400
this is exactly what
Dad and I needed.
247
00:13:45,425 --> 00:13:48,186
(POIGNANT MUSIC)
248
00:13:52,790 --> 00:13:55,706
The great tragedy of Ed's life
was the death of his wife,
249
00:13:55,706 --> 00:14:00,148
Louise, and his youngest
daughter, Belinda, in 1975.
250
00:14:00,172 --> 00:14:04,797
And he blamed himself terribly
for it, because he had arranged
251
00:14:04,822 --> 00:14:07,655
that the whole family would
live in Nepal for a year,
252
00:14:07,655 --> 00:14:11,738
and they would fly backwards
and forwards into the Himalayas.
253
00:14:15,658 --> 00:14:17,120
And on this occasion,
254
00:14:17,136 --> 00:14:20,677
the pilot had not done
his proper security checks.
255
00:14:21,148 --> 00:14:23,357
The flaps weren't working.
He took off,
256
00:14:23,357 --> 00:14:27,857
and the plane was unflyable,
and it just suddenly slewed off
257
00:14:27,898 --> 00:14:29,357
and drove straight
into the ground
258
00:14:29,357 --> 00:14:31,224
and killed everybody onboard.
259
00:14:31,249 --> 00:14:33,333
(HAUNTING VOCAL MUSIC)
260
00:14:38,893 --> 00:14:40,976
(POIGNANT MUSIC)
261
00:14:49,368 --> 00:14:51,451
And Ed was shattered.
262
00:14:52,118 --> 00:14:54,618
(POIGNANT MUSIC CONTINUES)
263
00:14:59,273 --> 00:15:00,709
He blamed himself.
264
00:15:00,709 --> 00:15:03,819
It was on one of his
hospital-building expeditions.
265
00:15:07,373 --> 00:15:09,540
(POIGNANT CHORAL MUSIC)
266
00:15:15,893 --> 00:15:17,850
I think, in Ed's mind,
it was not just,
267
00:15:17,967 --> 00:15:20,675
'Here's another adventure
to get my teeth into,'
268
00:15:20,675 --> 00:15:24,634
but he may have felt that Louise
was quietly saying in his ear,
269
00:15:24,634 --> 00:15:26,872
'Look, just go ahead
and do it.'
270
00:15:27,940 --> 00:15:31,273
And we thought that even
the planning of the expedition
271
00:15:31,305 --> 00:15:35,888
started to lift Ed out of
his terrible depression...
272
00:15:36,487 --> 00:15:41,779
and that the trip itself might
restore to us the old, happy Ed.
273
00:15:44,402 --> 00:15:46,486
(RISING MUSIC)
274
00:15:54,734 --> 00:15:56,818
(MUSIC SWELLS)
275
00:16:05,361 --> 00:16:07,444
(MUSIC QUIETENS)
276
00:16:13,694 --> 00:16:16,402
(INDISTINCT, LIVELY CHATTER)
277
00:16:19,652 --> 00:16:22,944
Our first adventure was
to explore the Sundarbans,
278
00:16:22,944 --> 00:16:26,319
which is a huge area
full of mangroves.
279
00:16:26,463 --> 00:16:29,879
Imagine you're in this
vast mangrove swamp
280
00:16:29,879 --> 00:16:32,707
that is the size
of a small country.
281
00:16:32,903 --> 00:16:37,403
And amongst all of this,
amazingly, are crocodiles,
282
00:16:37,403 --> 00:16:40,069
and most incredibly, tigers.
283
00:16:40,298 --> 00:16:43,256
And the stories we heard about
them were quite alarming.
284
00:16:43,256 --> 00:16:46,298
They could leap 20 or more
feet from the bank,
285
00:16:46,298 --> 00:16:49,089
and they'd developed the
charming habit of doing so
286
00:16:49,089 --> 00:16:52,668
and hoicking fishermen out of
their boats and eating them.
287
00:16:52,691 --> 00:16:54,441
They've adapted to living there.
288
00:16:54,441 --> 00:16:57,650
I mean, from habitat loss
further up in Bengal,
289
00:16:57,650 --> 00:17:00,108
they've retreated into
the mangrove swamps.
290
00:17:00,108 --> 00:17:04,358
They can drink brackish water,
eat fish and, occasionally,
291
00:17:04,358 --> 00:17:05,877
the odd fisherman.
292
00:17:05,900 --> 00:17:09,567
Jon started to show off the-
how the boat could ride across
293
00:17:09,567 --> 00:17:12,567
a muddy promontory,
travel across mud for 30m,
294
00:17:12,567 --> 00:17:14,775
and I don't know what a tiger
would have thought of that,
295
00:17:14,775 --> 00:17:17,214
had he seen it.
296
00:17:17,238 --> 00:17:22,696
We felt that any self-respecting
tiger, once it saw our antics,
297
00:17:23,029 --> 00:17:24,904
would refrain from eating us
298
00:17:24,904 --> 00:17:28,516
for fear of contracting
contagious insanity.
299
00:17:29,664 --> 00:17:32,456
But we did do some-
probably fairly silly things,
300
00:17:32,481 --> 00:17:35,106
and we did worry the
Indian Forest Service people
301
00:17:35,106 --> 00:17:40,314
who were with us and who were
armed with very ancient rifles -
302
00:17:40,775 --> 00:17:42,650
rifles we thought were
probably rejected
303
00:17:42,650 --> 00:17:45,441
by Queen Victoria's bodyguard.
304
00:17:45,742 --> 00:17:47,617
And he looked at me and he said,
305
00:17:47,617 --> 00:17:53,960
'Oh! If Sir Hillary gets eaten
by a tiger, I will lose my job.'
306
00:17:54,312 --> 00:17:56,062
But nevertheless,
had a tiger decided
307
00:17:56,062 --> 00:17:58,854
that he was really hungry,
I suppose he could have jumped
308
00:17:58,854 --> 00:18:01,187
inside a boat without
any trouble and eaten
309
00:18:01,187 --> 00:18:02,393
whichever one he wanted to.
310
00:18:02,722 --> 00:18:05,186
Who would it have been?
Would it have been, sort of,
311
00:18:05,211 --> 00:18:07,100
Ed, who was older,
or would it have been one of
312
00:18:07,125 --> 00:18:09,065
the younger people like Waka?
313
00:18:09,940 --> 00:18:12,815
The local village-
villagers would never go up
314
00:18:12,815 --> 00:18:16,525
these side channels, because
the tigers would possibly leap
315
00:18:16,557 --> 00:18:18,640
from the canopy and...
316
00:18:19,257 --> 00:18:21,340
take people.
317
00:18:21,610 --> 00:18:25,277
And when I look back on it now,
it was extremely gung-ho.
318
00:18:25,277 --> 00:18:29,402
You know, the esprit de corps
buoyed us on, and we just felt,
319
00:18:29,402 --> 00:18:30,985
' What could possibly go wrong?'
320
00:18:30,985 --> 00:18:33,360
Well, of course, everything
could have gone wrong.
321
00:18:33,360 --> 00:18:35,403
The tides would
suddenly rush out.
322
00:18:35,443 --> 00:18:38,638
We had difficulty getting out of
some of these narrow streams.
323
00:18:38,661 --> 00:18:40,744
(EASYGOING MUSIC)
324
00:18:46,344 --> 00:18:48,427
(MUSIC RISES)
325
00:18:54,302 --> 00:18:56,386
(ADVENTUROUS MUSIC)
326
00:19:00,667 --> 00:19:05,167
We went up these side channels,
of course, on a falling tide,
327
00:19:05,167 --> 00:19:08,292
and so we just about
got landlocked.
328
00:19:08,891 --> 00:19:10,974
(BIRDS SQUAWK)
329
00:19:11,410 --> 00:19:12,993
It's too muddy. Over this way.
330
00:19:12,993 --> 00:19:15,660
We were very keen
to see a tiger;
331
00:19:15,660 --> 00:19:17,792
not quite so keen
to be eaten by one.
332
00:19:17,800 --> 00:19:19,883
(LAUGHTER, CHATTER)
333
00:19:21,750 --> 00:19:23,541
Has anyone got a gun?
334
00:19:23,541 --> 00:19:24,625
LAUGHS: Oh!
335
00:19:24,625 --> 00:19:26,916
Oh, hey, I'm disappearing.
Hang on!
336
00:19:26,920 --> 00:19:28,719
(LAUGHTER)
337
00:19:29,148 --> 00:19:30,172
Oh!
338
00:19:30,172 --> 00:19:32,047
- Hold on.
- Oh.
339
00:19:32,047 --> 00:19:33,881
It was a great idea
coming up this creek (!)
340
00:19:33,881 --> 00:19:35,753
- Come on!
- (ALL STRAIN, GROAN)
341
00:19:35,768 --> 00:19:38,184
Push!
342
00:19:38,226 --> 00:19:40,392
And suddenly someone pointed out
343
00:19:40,401 --> 00:19:42,651
that there was what
looked like a coconut
344
00:19:42,651 --> 00:19:45,693
moving strongly
across the current.
345
00:19:45,693 --> 00:19:46,693
(ENGINE ROARS)
346
00:19:46,693 --> 00:19:48,985
I grabbed my camera,
and we raced towards this thing
347
00:19:48,985 --> 00:19:52,193
in the water, and soon we could
see that it had stripes!
348
00:19:52,414 --> 00:19:55,705
And we were quite close before
we saw that it was a tiger,
349
00:19:55,705 --> 00:19:59,248
later identified as a female,
swimming across the river.
350
00:19:59,412 --> 00:20:03,329
And, uh, (LAUGHS) shouts were
trying to encourage Mike and me
351
00:20:03,329 --> 00:20:07,745
to get between the tiger
and the shore and cut it off.
352
00:20:07,887 --> 00:20:09,637
A very severe attack
of cowardice
353
00:20:09,637 --> 00:20:13,137
prevented either Mike or I
agreeing to this.
354
00:20:13,137 --> 00:20:16,679
But we did come cautiously
behind the tiger as it went over
355
00:20:16,679 --> 00:20:20,012
and pulled itself up on to
the bank, covered in mud,
356
00:20:20,012 --> 00:20:23,481
and almost immediately
disappeared into the mangroves.
357
00:20:23,825 --> 00:20:26,825
And we thought that was it,
but then suddenly we heard
358
00:20:26,825 --> 00:20:29,575
an amazingly magnificent roar
359
00:20:29,575 --> 00:20:31,450
that just sent shivers
down our spine.
360
00:20:31,450 --> 00:20:33,474
(ROAR ECHOES)
361
00:20:33,552 --> 00:20:35,677
And out came striding...
362
00:20:36,427 --> 00:20:39,640
this huge male tiger,
363
00:20:40,006 --> 00:20:43,679
and it was rippling muscles.
364
00:20:44,236 --> 00:20:46,685
And I remember when...
365
00:20:46,710 --> 00:20:48,794
we gave the engine
366
00:20:49,127 --> 00:20:50,794
a bit of a roar,
367
00:20:50,794 --> 00:20:56,002
the tiger responded immediately
with an even greater roar.
368
00:20:56,280 --> 00:20:59,273
(ROAR RUMBLES, ECHOES)
369
00:20:59,405 --> 00:21:05,172
And I realised, watching this
animal, that if it decided
370
00:21:05,197 --> 00:21:08,077
it was going to have you,
it was going to have you.
371
00:21:08,108 --> 00:21:12,441
Because we could see how far
the bloody thing could jump.
372
00:21:12,441 --> 00:21:14,983
It was an impressive athlete.
373
00:21:16,088 --> 00:21:17,171
And we were extremely lucky,
374
00:21:17,171 --> 00:21:18,879
because one of the
Forest Service people
375
00:21:18,879 --> 00:21:21,640
who'd been working in the area
for, I think, 15 years,
376
00:21:21,789 --> 00:21:23,872
had never seen a tiger.
377
00:21:23,872 --> 00:21:25,622
So of course,
as spiritual adviser,
378
00:21:25,622 --> 00:21:29,497
I explained to everybody that
this was because of the puja
379
00:21:29,497 --> 00:21:32,592
we had had before
we left Ganga Sagar.
380
00:21:32,623 --> 00:21:34,706
(ENGINE ROARS)
381
00:21:34,731 --> 00:21:36,773
(EXCITING MUSIC)
382
00:21:40,065 --> 00:21:43,731
We roared in our Jetboats into
the great city of Kolkata,
383
00:21:43,731 --> 00:21:45,481
under the Howrah Bridge,
384
00:21:45,481 --> 00:21:50,065
and the crowds were
absolutely mind-boggling.
385
00:21:50,674 --> 00:21:54,258
We believed we waved
at a population of people
386
00:21:54,258 --> 00:21:56,924
that exceeded that
of all of New Zealand.
387
00:21:56,924 --> 00:21:59,049
Three or four million people,
388
00:21:59,049 --> 00:22:03,064
lining the banks, in the trees,
up on buildings and shrines,
389
00:22:03,088 --> 00:22:05,171
all of them waving at us,
390
00:22:05,290 --> 00:22:08,805
all there to get a glimpse
of the amazing Jetboats
391
00:22:08,844 --> 00:22:13,219
and my father, you know,
the climber of Mt Everest.
392
00:22:13,219 --> 00:22:16,011
(EXCITED CHATTER, CLAMORING)
393
00:22:16,153 --> 00:22:19,195
Ed was widely known
throughout India.
394
00:22:19,195 --> 00:22:22,111
And here was
a history book figure
395
00:22:22,111 --> 00:22:25,549
suddenly coming to life,
and people flocked to see him.
396
00:22:25,557 --> 00:22:27,641
(HORN BELLOWS)
397
00:22:28,183 --> 00:22:31,516
The children were
a total wonder to us -
398
00:22:33,016 --> 00:22:36,312
totally inquisitive faces
399
00:22:36,806 --> 00:22:40,973
looking at people they had
been told were great,
400
00:22:41,256 --> 00:22:46,590
particularly Ed Hillary, the
first person to climb Everest;
401
00:22:47,003 --> 00:22:52,360
looking at boats that were,
to them, rockets,
402
00:22:52,837 --> 00:22:56,504
and coming up to us
and saying things like,
403
00:22:57,004 --> 00:23:00,435
'Are you the same men
that went to the moon?'
404
00:23:00,521 --> 00:23:05,437
The whole thing was a cocktail
which made your head spin.
405
00:23:09,088 --> 00:23:12,296
Well, I was just a humble boy
from rural New Zealand,
406
00:23:12,296 --> 00:23:17,400
you know, and I had never ever
before expected crowds
407
00:23:17,448 --> 00:23:19,394
and adulation like
we were given.
408
00:23:19,511 --> 00:23:21,803
And a lot of people,
to be honest,
409
00:23:21,803 --> 00:23:24,605
didn't quite understand
what Jetboats were.
410
00:23:24,675 --> 00:23:26,675
They knew of jet planes,
411
00:23:26,675 --> 00:23:29,848
and they sort of thought
we were flying up the river.
412
00:23:30,813 --> 00:23:32,855
When you go mountaineering,
you know you're not going to see
413
00:23:32,855 --> 00:23:35,521
crowds all over the mountain
watching you climbing.
414
00:23:35,521 --> 00:23:37,188
But here we were
on what we thought
415
00:23:37,188 --> 00:23:41,688
was a solitary adventure, but
we were actually being joined
416
00:23:41,688 --> 00:23:45,368
by many millions of Indians
as we went up the river.
417
00:23:46,447 --> 00:23:51,072
And when Indians climbed Everest
in '65, that was perhaps
418
00:23:51,072 --> 00:23:53,777
the biggest expedition
in India in those days.
419
00:23:53,992 --> 00:23:56,367
(LIVELY, UPLIFTING MUSIC)
420
00:24:02,050 --> 00:24:06,201
But as a total impact on
the population of the country,
421
00:24:06,201 --> 00:24:08,284
the way the people came,
422
00:24:08,742 --> 00:24:12,409
after days and days
of traveling on foot,
423
00:24:12,826 --> 00:24:16,034
to have a look at these
funny machines
424
00:24:16,076 --> 00:24:18,576
going opposite the current,
425
00:24:18,675 --> 00:24:22,800
and I think the total impact
on the nation was perhaps
426
00:24:22,800 --> 00:24:26,758
the biggest and most
publicized expeditions
427
00:24:27,199 --> 00:24:29,615
in the history of the world.
428
00:24:29,615 --> 00:24:32,282
(CELEBRATORY MARCHING MUSIC)
429
00:24:36,928 --> 00:24:39,011
This textbook figure,
430
00:24:39,636 --> 00:24:41,178
for all intents and purposes,
431
00:24:41,178 --> 00:24:45,136
was making a holy pilgrimage
up Mother Ganga.
432
00:24:45,136 --> 00:24:47,678
(MARCHING MUSIC CONTINUES)
433
00:24:47,702 --> 00:24:50,952
I was particularly worried,
as spiritual adviser.
434
00:24:50,952 --> 00:24:55,183
I thought we could be resented
by roaring up the Holy River
435
00:24:55,198 --> 00:24:59,073
in polluting, noisy,
mechanical craft.
436
00:24:59,781 --> 00:25:04,477
But that was dispelled. I didn't
feel the slightest hint of that.
437
00:25:04,532 --> 00:25:06,615
(ENGINE RUMBLES)
438
00:25:07,695 --> 00:25:09,903
My feeling is that all
the Indian crowds
439
00:25:09,903 --> 00:25:12,361
who came to see us
genuinely felt
440
00:25:12,361 --> 00:25:14,488
that we were making
a pilgrimage.
441
00:25:14,753 --> 00:25:20,044
We were starting to realise
through these sort of encounters
442
00:25:20,072 --> 00:25:25,513
that people really regarded
this expedition
443
00:25:25,521 --> 00:25:27,855
as something very special,
444
00:25:28,715 --> 00:25:30,508
almost sacred,
445
00:25:30,524 --> 00:25:33,700
and people wanted
to come with us.
446
00:25:35,383 --> 00:25:37,341
And one young man, a very
enterprising young man,
447
00:25:37,341 --> 00:25:40,175
was so keen, that
he converted his bike
448
00:25:40,175 --> 00:25:43,258
into an amphibious craft
and came pedaling out
449
00:25:43,258 --> 00:25:45,136
over the water.
450
00:25:52,576 --> 00:25:54,660
(ENGINE REVS SOFTLY)
451
00:25:54,660 --> 00:25:57,035
(SERENE, EXPECTANT MUSIC)
452
00:25:57,133 --> 00:26:00,466
Also, we were hassled
for autographs.
453
00:26:00,471 --> 00:26:02,763
At first, we humbler members
of the expedition
454
00:26:02,763 --> 00:26:05,555
at first took this rather
flatteringly, you see.
455
00:26:05,555 --> 00:26:08,546
But after one day, we were
sick of signing autographs.
456
00:26:08,562 --> 00:26:12,729
Ed never, ever turned anyone
away. He was simply amazing.
457
00:26:12,729 --> 00:26:16,137
He kept his good humor as
crowds pressed in upon him,
458
00:26:16,180 --> 00:26:17,969
clamoring for autographs.
459
00:26:18,549 --> 00:26:20,924
The adulation of the people
was interesting,
460
00:26:20,924 --> 00:26:24,382
and Ed handled it very well,
but he didn't himself think
461
00:26:24,382 --> 00:26:26,465
he was particularly special.
462
00:26:26,465 --> 00:26:29,132
He was a genuinely modest,
humble man.
463
00:26:29,132 --> 00:26:31,299
(PLAYS HERALDING MUSIC)
464
00:26:36,323 --> 00:26:39,656
But the people thought
he was divinity itself -
465
00:26:39,656 --> 00:26:42,156
an avatar come down to Earth -
466
00:26:42,198 --> 00:26:45,531
and there's an
ancient belief in India
467
00:26:46,200 --> 00:26:48,825
that if you are in the presence
of a great person
468
00:26:48,825 --> 00:26:52,825
or of a divinity,
you acquire merit simply by,
469
00:26:52,825 --> 00:26:54,575
almost osmotically,
by being in their presence.
470
00:26:54,575 --> 00:26:57,801
It's called 'darshan' - having
darshan of a great person.
471
00:26:57,808 --> 00:27:00,474
And I've no doubt at all
that played a large role
472
00:27:00,499 --> 00:27:03,958
in the adulation of Ed and in
the tremendous press of people
473
00:27:03,958 --> 00:27:08,774
trying to get close enough to
acquire some of Ed's merit.
474
00:27:08,783 --> 00:27:12,199
Often they were just
mere tens of thousands.
475
00:27:12,199 --> 00:27:15,629
On many occasions, they were
hundreds of thousands.
476
00:27:15,629 --> 00:27:18,670
And it was overwhelming.
They'd go over the hills -
477
00:27:18,670 --> 00:27:21,875
all these people all intent
on coming to see
478
00:27:21,900 --> 00:27:22,920
what was happening.
479
00:27:22,920 --> 00:27:26,253
These crowds were so dense.
They'd been waiting a long time,
480
00:27:26,253 --> 00:27:30,152
sometimes three days. And of
course, the crowd get restless.
481
00:27:30,160 --> 00:27:32,660
There was this sort of
tension in the air,
482
00:27:32,660 --> 00:27:37,077
and there was this really large,
mustachioed man beaming away
483
00:27:37,077 --> 00:27:40,483
as he's looking across
at my father, Ed Hillary.
484
00:27:40,498 --> 00:27:44,206
And there was a policeman
with a 2-meter lathi stick,
485
00:27:44,206 --> 00:27:48,581
and for some reason,
he hit this man with the stick.
486
00:27:49,197 --> 00:27:52,322
And of course, he went from
this great beaming smile
487
00:27:52,322 --> 00:27:54,629
to looking pretty upset
about this.
488
00:27:54,629 --> 00:27:57,963
And just the emotion in
the crowd suddenly changed.
489
00:27:57,963 --> 00:27:59,588
I mean, it really
got quite tense.
490
00:27:59,588 --> 00:28:03,004
And most of us were trying
to jump back into the boats
491
00:28:03,004 --> 00:28:04,754
and get away, because we felt
492
00:28:04,754 --> 00:28:06,614
this could become
very unpleasant.
493
00:28:06,622 --> 00:28:10,330
But not my father.
He pushed past the policeman,
494
00:28:10,330 --> 00:28:13,247
reached out to this big guy
with the mustache
495
00:28:13,247 --> 00:28:16,267
and shook him by the hand
and patted him on the back.
496
00:28:16,275 --> 00:28:19,067
And a big smile came
back on his face,
497
00:28:19,067 --> 00:28:22,067
and he just instantly
defused that tension.
498
00:28:22,067 --> 00:28:26,085
It was- It really was
vintage Ed Hillary.
499
00:28:26,545 --> 00:28:29,586
Obviously, the focus
was on my father,
500
00:28:29,586 --> 00:28:33,977
the first man to climb Everest -
you know, a world entity.
501
00:28:33,985 --> 00:28:38,152
But there was also an emphasis
on his son, and that was me,
502
00:28:38,152 --> 00:28:41,110
and I- I didn't feel that
comfortable about it, because,
503
00:28:41,110 --> 00:28:42,944
as I said, I felt, you know -
504
00:28:42,944 --> 00:28:46,533
what have I done, really, to
deserve all of this attention?
505
00:28:46,533 --> 00:28:47,950
And I remember on one occasion-
506
00:28:47,950 --> 00:28:51,158
You know, I was
a 22-year-old student
507
00:28:51,158 --> 00:28:54,491
going on a climbing
and jet-boating expedition.
508
00:28:54,491 --> 00:28:58,825
And an elderly villager
came up to me and knelt down
509
00:28:58,825 --> 00:29:02,668
and touched my feet,
obviously wanting the darshan,
510
00:29:02,668 --> 00:29:06,710
but, you know, what did I have
to offer as a 22-year-old?
511
00:29:06,710 --> 00:29:10,719
And I found this very, very
difficult, because I thought,
512
00:29:10,734 --> 00:29:13,151
'What have I done to earn that?'
513
00:29:13,151 --> 00:29:16,484
And in many respects, I think,
philosophically, I felt,
514
00:29:16,526 --> 00:29:18,068
'What has anyone done
515
00:29:18,068 --> 00:29:21,066
'to really deserve someone
touching your feet?'
516
00:29:21,644 --> 00:29:23,269
For Peter Hillary,
517
00:29:23,269 --> 00:29:27,344
going along to be the son of god
was very difficult.
518
00:29:27,493 --> 00:29:31,660
And Peter, on his own, was
a highly successful person.
519
00:29:31,660 --> 00:29:35,337
He was a great climber - very
strong climber, a good athlete.
520
00:29:35,345 --> 00:29:37,553
He had so much going for him.
521
00:29:37,553 --> 00:29:39,136
He had his pilot's license;
522
00:29:39,136 --> 00:29:41,017
he was a very
accomplished mountaineer.
523
00:29:41,033 --> 00:29:45,158
And so to be sought out
not for any of these things
524
00:29:45,158 --> 00:29:49,992
but simply because he was Ed's
son was not a happy thing.
525
00:29:50,854 --> 00:29:54,396
Yeah, he even went through
this stage in New Zealand
526
00:29:54,396 --> 00:29:56,896
where he'd call himself
Peter Hill
527
00:29:56,896 --> 00:30:01,011
so people wouldn't recognise
him as Ed's son,
528
00:30:01,051 --> 00:30:03,610
and so he wouldn't get
favors and that
529
00:30:03,642 --> 00:30:05,432
when he was trying to get a job.
530
00:30:05,432 --> 00:30:08,974
It was particularly galling to
see beautiful young women
531
00:30:08,974 --> 00:30:12,184
wanting to meet this young man.
532
00:30:12,354 --> 00:30:16,311
But I think Peter was quite
disturbed by the whole thing.
533
00:30:16,444 --> 00:30:20,278
I remember, many,
many pretty girls in India
534
00:30:20,528 --> 00:30:22,236
wanting our autographs.
535
00:30:22,236 --> 00:30:25,736
But unfortunately, we kept
traveling all the time,
536
00:30:25,736 --> 00:30:29,128
so I never had time to really
talk and get to know them,
537
00:30:29,144 --> 00:30:30,562
which was unfortunate.
538
00:30:30,586 --> 00:30:33,700
(SERENE FLUTE MUSIC)
539
00:30:37,378 --> 00:30:40,294
(MEN CONVERSE IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
540
00:30:42,711 --> 00:30:45,086
(CREW CHANT RHYTHMICALLY)
541
00:30:47,040 --> 00:30:49,123
(SOLEMN VOCAL MUSIC)
542
00:30:54,000 --> 00:30:56,792
(SOLEMN VOCAL MUSIC CONTINUES)
543
00:30:57,610 --> 00:30:59,485
For long periods,
once we were out
544
00:30:59,485 --> 00:31:03,152
on the main bosom of Mother
Ganga, we were going through
545
00:31:03,152 --> 00:31:05,575
seemingly sparsely
inhabited areas
546
00:31:05,575 --> 00:31:07,659
and the peace of the river
547
00:31:07,659 --> 00:31:10,619
and sometimes temples actually
in the middle of the river.
548
00:31:10,752 --> 00:31:12,607
(SOLEMN MUSIC CONTINUES)
549
00:31:13,683 --> 00:31:15,516
One of the brilliant things
about the journey
550
00:31:15,516 --> 00:31:17,391
was the contrasts -
551
00:31:17,391 --> 00:31:20,266
I mean, the great crowds
of Calcutta,
552
00:31:20,266 --> 00:31:22,953
and then out on
the Gangetic Plains,
553
00:31:23,026 --> 00:31:25,734
roaring along in our Jetboats,
554
00:31:25,859 --> 00:31:29,345
the country boats with their
great patchwork quilt sails,
555
00:31:29,488 --> 00:31:32,160
moving along, and the
singing of the boatmen.
556
00:31:32,195 --> 00:31:34,278
(SOLEMN VOCAL MUSIC)
557
00:31:34,278 --> 00:31:36,361
(ENGINE CHUGS SOFTLY)
558
00:31:39,219 --> 00:31:44,636
We saw one sail that definitely
had more holes in it than cloth.
559
00:31:44,674 --> 00:31:47,840
But by some magic -
probably they'd done puja -
560
00:31:47,840 --> 00:31:50,215
it was drawing
the ship along perfectly,
561
00:31:50,215 --> 00:31:54,090
just as if it had been a full
sail. It was absolutely magical.
562
00:31:54,090 --> 00:31:57,794
And to be in this sublime,
peaceful atmosphere
563
00:31:57,809 --> 00:31:58,988
was just wonderful.
564
00:31:58,997 --> 00:32:01,080
(STIRRING VOCAL MUSIC)
565
00:32:03,556 --> 00:32:06,389
The absolutely stunning,
big river boats
566
00:32:06,389 --> 00:32:10,431
carrying cargos of rock
and sand for building.
567
00:32:11,042 --> 00:32:14,875
It was as the river had been
10,000 years ago,
568
00:32:15,354 --> 00:32:17,854
and the boats we were seeing
were very old boats.
569
00:32:17,854 --> 00:32:19,604
They were like nothing else
you ever saw.
570
00:32:19,604 --> 00:32:23,813
I'm sure, go back there
in the 21st century,
571
00:32:23,821 --> 00:32:26,820
and there'll be motorboats. But
they were not motorboats then.
572
00:32:29,697 --> 00:32:32,697
(HAUNTING VOCAL MUSIC CONTINUES)
573
00:32:35,766 --> 00:32:39,016
When it was getting
a bit difficult to sail,
574
00:32:39,016 --> 00:32:43,371
they would simply put these
straining young people
575
00:32:43,387 --> 00:32:46,380
on the end of a long rope
and tow the boats up the river.
576
00:32:48,224 --> 00:32:50,307
Like they used to do in England,
in the canals and that,
577
00:32:50,379 --> 00:32:53,881
but instead of using horses,
they were using people.
578
00:32:58,100 --> 00:33:00,183
(SHEETS RUSTLE)
579
00:33:00,342 --> 00:33:02,425
(SERENE MUSIC)
580
00:33:06,066 --> 00:33:08,149
(THUMP! THUMP!)
581
00:33:10,824 --> 00:33:12,907
(THUD! THUD!)
582
00:33:15,828 --> 00:33:17,911
(THWACK!)
583
00:33:18,828 --> 00:33:23,494
And every night we would choose
a spot, usually by a village,
584
00:33:23,494 --> 00:33:26,132
and go and respectfully
ask the villagers -
585
00:33:26,133 --> 00:33:29,275
could we camp near
their village,
586
00:33:29,300 --> 00:33:32,925
and always, of course,
eagerly agreed to.
587
00:33:36,450 --> 00:33:38,534
(ENGINE RUMBLES)
588
00:33:40,700 --> 00:33:44,354
And this is the case just
for ordinary mortals,
589
00:33:44,424 --> 00:33:49,260
but of course, with Ed
being considered a god,
590
00:33:49,715 --> 00:33:53,132
we were now involved
with hospitality to God,
591
00:33:53,157 --> 00:33:54,272
her or himself.
592
00:33:54,563 --> 00:33:59,396
They welcomed us not just warmly
but very self-sacrificially.
593
00:33:59,396 --> 00:34:01,730
(SPEAKS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
594
00:34:05,271 --> 00:34:08,271
(BOTH CONVERSE
IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
595
00:34:11,730 --> 00:34:13,814
(SERENE VOCAL MUSIC)
596
00:34:16,522 --> 00:34:20,105
The incredible thing about
the Ganges River, the Ganga,
597
00:34:20,105 --> 00:34:22,953
is it really is a living,
breathing river.
598
00:34:23,117 --> 00:34:27,617
It moves around on the surface
of the Great Gangetic Plains,
599
00:34:27,617 --> 00:34:30,178
cutting away at
the banks of the river.
600
00:34:30,194 --> 00:34:33,444
And not infrequently,
we would visit villages
601
00:34:33,444 --> 00:34:37,069
where extensive amounts of
the village and their fields
602
00:34:37,069 --> 00:34:38,985
had been cut away by the river.
603
00:34:39,180 --> 00:34:42,555
A village which had already
lost half its houses
604
00:34:42,555 --> 00:34:46,085
had not sufficient flat ground
left for us to camp on
605
00:34:46,234 --> 00:34:47,776
that didn't have crops on.
606
00:34:47,776 --> 00:34:51,401
So... (CHUCKLES) without
a second thought, seemingly,
607
00:34:51,401 --> 00:34:54,620
they proceeded to cut down
some of their precious corn crop
608
00:34:54,628 --> 00:34:57,160
to give us room to camp -
609
00:34:57,747 --> 00:35:01,913
which struck me as the most
extraordinary hospitality
610
00:35:01,938 --> 00:35:05,193
we've ever been privileged
to be offered.
611
00:35:05,962 --> 00:35:11,170
Both with the crop cut down and
camping, we would offer to pay,
612
00:35:11,170 --> 00:35:14,066
and this was firmly refused.
613
00:35:14,656 --> 00:35:17,405
This was hospitality that was
not something you could buy;
614
00:35:17,414 --> 00:35:18,920
this was given.
615
00:35:22,628 --> 00:35:25,753
Now, the Ganga is not
just a symbol of life;
616
00:35:25,753 --> 00:35:30,278
it is actually, to many, many
hundreds of millions of people,
617
00:35:30,301 --> 00:35:33,218
literally life itself.
It's water for irrigation,
618
00:35:33,218 --> 00:35:36,270
water for drinking,
water for transport.
619
00:35:36,278 --> 00:35:37,819
And of course,
I think this underlies
620
00:35:37,819 --> 00:35:41,069
the spiritual significance
as well.
621
00:35:41,069 --> 00:35:43,153
(PEACEFUL MUSIC)
622
00:35:43,478 --> 00:35:47,603
It's Mother Ganga that
laid down the fertile soil
623
00:35:47,603 --> 00:35:49,644
that supports
the vast population
624
00:35:49,644 --> 00:35:52,972
of the plains of Ganga,
every flood.
625
00:35:52,980 --> 00:35:58,063
But it's Mother Ganga also that,
in floods, cuts away that land
626
00:35:58,063 --> 00:36:00,730
and redistributes it downriver.
627
00:36:00,730 --> 00:36:03,855
But we felt that the
villagers accepted this.
628
00:36:03,855 --> 00:36:07,938
And if the river took -
whether lives or houses -
629
00:36:08,813 --> 00:36:10,772
you had to accept that.
630
00:36:10,772 --> 00:36:12,980
The thing is to adjust
your inner attitudes
631
00:36:12,980 --> 00:36:17,397
and to accept life as it is -
both giving and taking.
632
00:36:18,010 --> 00:36:22,551
And Ganga is, in my view,
the most superb symbol of this,
633
00:36:22,551 --> 00:36:25,968
which explains, of course,
at least in part,
634
00:36:25,968 --> 00:36:29,833
its great holiness and why
it's reverenced so deeply.
635
00:36:30,424 --> 00:36:33,549
I remember Murray and I
going off into the village,
636
00:36:33,549 --> 00:36:35,765
and it was like a time warp
637
00:36:35,790 --> 00:36:38,128
going into the quiet
little lanes.
638
00:36:38,143 --> 00:36:40,518
(MILK SPRAYS RHYTHMICALLY)
639
00:36:40,927 --> 00:36:45,787
People milking their buffalo,
going about their daily chores.
640
00:36:45,796 --> 00:36:47,338
(RHYTHMIC SLOSHING)
641
00:36:47,664 --> 00:36:52,705
And they'd just look up and
smile at us, and we'd wander on.
642
00:36:57,394 --> 00:37:00,436
But there was something
very restful about them.
643
00:37:00,461 --> 00:37:03,377
It just felt as though those
people had been there
644
00:37:03,377 --> 00:37:06,315
for thousands of years.
And I think they had actually.
645
00:37:07,280 --> 00:37:10,905
There's no doubt in my mind that
although we were just rough,
646
00:37:10,905 --> 00:37:13,887
skeptical New Zealand
mountaineers,
647
00:37:13,895 --> 00:37:17,353
the gentle wisdom of Hinduism
was sinking into us
648
00:37:17,353 --> 00:37:21,145
through this trip up
Mother Ganga.
649
00:37:24,731 --> 00:37:28,523
And we were definitely beginning
to drop that Anglicized name -
650
00:37:28,523 --> 00:37:31,440
The Ganges -
and calling her Ganga
651
00:37:32,065 --> 00:37:34,481
or Ganga Ama - Mother Ganga.
652
00:37:39,875 --> 00:37:41,875
And so we would spend the night
653
00:37:41,875 --> 00:37:43,667
with perhaps a few village
children coming round
654
00:37:43,667 --> 00:37:46,917
and peering at us, wondering
what Max Pearl was doing
655
00:37:46,917 --> 00:37:49,317
when he was shaving
with an electric shaver.
656
00:37:49,324 --> 00:37:52,658
But very respectfully left on
our own, and it was sheer bliss
657
00:37:52,658 --> 00:37:54,741
after the crowds.
658
00:37:57,449 --> 00:37:59,533
(GENTLE FLUTE MUSIC)
659
00:38:00,533 --> 00:38:02,908
(IMPASSIONED VOCAL MUSIC)
660
00:38:15,949 --> 00:38:18,116
(VOCAL MUSIC CONTINUES)
661
00:38:32,673 --> 00:38:34,840
(VOCAL MUSIC CONTINUES)
662
00:38:45,007 --> 00:38:47,090
(MUSIC QUIETENS)
663
00:38:47,090 --> 00:38:49,632
(INDISTINCT CONVERSATIONS)
664
00:38:58,148 --> 00:39:00,231
(SERENE VOCAL MUSIC)
665
00:39:09,443 --> 00:39:11,527
Wherever you went,
666
00:39:11,735 --> 00:39:14,277
you were aware how important
667
00:39:14,860 --> 00:39:16,818
Hinduism was to these people
668
00:39:16,818 --> 00:39:19,152
and how it was completely
linked to the river,
669
00:39:19,177 --> 00:39:23,248
because you saw ritual bathing
all the way up the river.
670
00:39:24,029 --> 00:39:27,529
Mother Ganga, because
of all the population,
671
00:39:27,529 --> 00:39:30,696
was, even in our day, polluted.
672
00:39:30,696 --> 00:39:33,821
And it's even worse -
much worse now.
673
00:39:33,918 --> 00:39:37,710
But in Hindu belief,
it is completely pure.
674
00:39:37,775 --> 00:39:39,775
I believed this for a while
and drank some
675
00:39:39,775 --> 00:39:41,775
and came down with
amoebic dysentery.
676
00:39:41,775 --> 00:39:43,626
But that shows I wasn't
spiritual enough.
677
00:39:44,394 --> 00:39:47,228
I didn't go along with
the Indian philosophy
678
00:39:47,228 --> 00:39:49,769
of self-purification
in the Ganges,
679
00:39:49,769 --> 00:39:52,591
cos it didn't look like it
to me. (CHUCKLES)
680
00:39:52,835 --> 00:39:55,043
The proper explanation
is the Hindu explanation -
681
00:39:55,043 --> 00:39:56,168
it's a sacred river.
682
00:39:56,168 --> 00:39:58,335
How could any pollution
get in a sacred river?
683
00:39:58,335 --> 00:39:59,567
Anything that falls in
is purified.
684
00:39:59,583 --> 00:40:02,541
If I fell in and died there,
I would go instantly to heaven.
685
00:40:03,095 --> 00:40:06,053
But there have been attempts
to explain it scientifically
686
00:40:06,053 --> 00:40:10,012
by saying that it goes through
some deposits in the river bed
687
00:40:10,012 --> 00:40:13,803
that have antibiotic
properties and so on.
688
00:40:14,393 --> 00:40:16,476
I wouldn't...
689
00:40:16,476 --> 00:40:19,726
dare pronounce on
the truth of the matter,
690
00:40:19,726 --> 00:40:22,589
but it's certainly
regarded as pure.
691
00:40:22,893 --> 00:40:24,976
- Come on!
- Whoa!
692
00:40:25,149 --> 00:40:26,149
(YELLS)
693
00:40:26,149 --> 00:40:29,732
(LAUGHTER)
694
00:40:31,883 --> 00:40:35,342
You definitely kept your head
above water, and I actually
695
00:40:35,342 --> 00:40:38,059
don't remember
having any problems.
696
00:40:38,082 --> 00:40:40,624
I don't know whether
I'd do it now.
697
00:40:40,624 --> 00:40:42,832
But we were a lot younger
and a lot more stupid then,
698
00:40:42,832 --> 00:40:46,040
you know, because it's not the
healthiest river in the world
699
00:40:46,040 --> 00:40:49,544
to swim in, with all due
respects to India. (CHUCKLES)
700
00:40:50,299 --> 00:40:52,382
(MYSTICAL MUSIC)
701
00:40:53,599 --> 00:40:55,583
We knew the water
could actually kill us
702
00:40:55,584 --> 00:40:57,920
in the bouldery rapids ahead.
703
00:40:57,928 --> 00:41:00,761
And we knew the higher the
river level, the more chance
704
00:41:00,761 --> 00:41:02,871
we actually had
of getting through.
705
00:41:02,872 --> 00:41:06,289
So we were here at the tail end
of the monsoon
706
00:41:06,289 --> 00:41:11,122
when river volumes are 30 times
the dry-season volumes.
707
00:41:11,247 --> 00:41:14,407
And these vast black clouds
were always with us.
708
00:41:14,415 --> 00:41:16,498
(THUNDER RUMBLES)
709
00:41:18,621 --> 00:41:20,704
(BICYCLE BELL DINGS)
710
00:41:20,704 --> 00:41:22,787
(WATER SLOSHES)
711
00:41:23,662 --> 00:41:25,621
There was water, water
everywhere.
712
00:41:25,621 --> 00:41:27,408
(LAUGHS HEARTILY)
713
00:41:27,432 --> 00:41:31,660
Some towns we passed were
living semi-aquatic lifestyles,
714
00:41:34,208 --> 00:41:38,375
and the river itself
sometimes looked like a sea.
715
00:41:38,375 --> 00:41:42,333
With the river being so wide
and not much current showing,
716
00:41:42,333 --> 00:41:45,750
we couldn't tell which way
was upstream
717
00:41:45,855 --> 00:41:48,605
or whether we were going
sideways or up-ways.
718
00:41:48,605 --> 00:41:51,232
It was very hard for
us to know what direction
719
00:41:51,240 --> 00:41:53,365
even to head in sometimes.
720
00:41:54,040 --> 00:41:57,140
We were, honestly, right
in the middle of nowhere.
721
00:41:57,140 --> 00:41:59,765
It was, like,
horizon to horizon.
722
00:41:59,765 --> 00:42:01,973
You could not see land
either side.
723
00:42:01,973 --> 00:42:05,183
We were taking compass settings
in the middle of the Ganges.
724
00:42:05,339 --> 00:42:09,005
And in a lot of places,
big tributaries came down,
725
00:42:09,005 --> 00:42:12,755
and where the rivers joined,
it was very difficult to know
726
00:42:12,755 --> 00:42:15,274
even that you were
on the right river.
727
00:42:15,283 --> 00:42:18,965
Reading the water depth
was almost impossible.
728
00:42:19,379 --> 00:42:23,462
And you'd be driving along in
this brown water and be not sure
729
00:42:23,462 --> 00:42:25,465
how deep it was.
730
00:42:26,504 --> 00:42:29,046
So between 30m or 40m depth...
731
00:42:29,856 --> 00:42:32,239
and, um, well,
732
00:42:32,264 --> 00:42:33,814
a few millimeters' depth,
733
00:42:33,814 --> 00:42:37,064
there is nothing to show you on
the surface - nothing at all -
734
00:42:37,064 --> 00:42:38,939
no ripples, nothing.
735
00:42:38,939 --> 00:42:41,106
So consequently, we had
a terrible time knowing
736
00:42:41,106 --> 00:42:45,005
where the deep water was,
and these boats go about 30mph -
737
00:42:45,013 --> 00:42:47,671
50 or so kilometers
an hour, I think.
738
00:42:47,680 --> 00:42:49,847
So most of us were on edge.
739
00:42:50,597 --> 00:42:52,680
Jetboats hate sand.
740
00:42:53,428 --> 00:42:58,480
They love mud, but sand
will just stop them dead.
741
00:42:58,992 --> 00:43:01,034
So there was one occasion,
742
00:43:01,034 --> 00:43:04,784
when I was lounging
on the front of the boat,
743
00:43:04,806 --> 00:43:08,764
enjoying the sun and tearing
along at 50km/h,
744
00:43:10,347 --> 00:43:12,431
and suddenly, woomph!
745
00:43:16,847 --> 00:43:19,062
- You all right?!
- Oh! Thanks, Jim!
746
00:43:19,062 --> 00:43:20,895
- Are you OK?
- I felt like a swim!
747
00:43:21,238 --> 00:43:23,738
Boy, we had some
terrible groundings.
748
00:43:23,738 --> 00:43:25,780
People and equipment
would be thrown
749
00:43:25,780 --> 00:43:29,072
either overboard or forward
inside the boat,
750
00:43:29,080 --> 00:43:31,220
and people would be injured.
751
00:43:31,872 --> 00:43:34,872
There were many
groundings - many.
752
00:43:35,554 --> 00:43:39,429
Mingma was thrown off,
and his whole lip was cut,
753
00:43:39,429 --> 00:43:42,804
and Max Pearl had
to stitch up his lip.
754
00:43:43,665 --> 00:43:46,248
Yes, the only doctor
to set up practice
755
00:43:46,248 --> 00:43:48,346
in the middle of the Ganges.
756
00:43:49,198 --> 00:43:51,573
Max Pearl was
a very close friend.
757
00:43:51,573 --> 00:43:54,323
In fact, he was
our family doctor
758
00:43:54,323 --> 00:43:57,656
and began to go on a number
of my father's expeditions
759
00:43:57,681 --> 00:43:59,823
to help with setting up
the first hospitals
760
00:43:59,823 --> 00:44:02,698
up in the Mt Everest area
in the Himalayas.
761
00:44:03,699 --> 00:44:07,475
He was one of the most loved
members of the expedition.
762
00:44:07,500 --> 00:44:10,417
And just a few years later,
tragically,
763
00:44:10,417 --> 00:44:13,917
he was back in a river
in New Zealand, fly-fishing
764
00:44:13,917 --> 00:44:16,125
when they raised
the level of the river,
765
00:44:16,125 --> 00:44:19,400
and Max was swept away to
his death - a terrible tragedy.
766
00:44:19,815 --> 00:44:21,899
(POIGNANT MUSIC)
767
00:44:33,310 --> 00:44:35,393
(ENGINE HUMS)
768
00:44:38,526 --> 00:44:41,568
Now we were halfway
from the ocean to the sky,
769
00:44:41,568 --> 00:44:44,109
entering the holy city
of Varanasi,
770
00:44:44,109 --> 00:44:47,480
and no one could be happier
to be here than Jim Wilson.
771
00:44:48,210 --> 00:44:50,751
Jim had actually trained
for the Christian ministry,
772
00:44:50,751 --> 00:44:53,543
but then his spiritual life had
taken as many twists and turns
773
00:44:53,543 --> 00:44:56,543
as his jetboat,
and it led him here,
774
00:44:56,623 --> 00:44:59,539
where he did a doctorate
in Hindu Philosophy.
775
00:44:59,539 --> 00:45:01,831
- (SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE)
- (LAUGHS)
776
00:45:01,831 --> 00:45:03,081
Your teacher very good.
777
00:45:03,081 --> 00:45:05,373
(PRAYS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
778
00:45:11,703 --> 00:45:14,536
Eventually we came to Varanasi,
779
00:45:14,661 --> 00:45:17,661
where Ann and I had
lived for two years.
780
00:45:17,661 --> 00:45:21,828
It was one of the most,
if not the most sacred city
781
00:45:21,847 --> 00:45:23,362
in the whole of India,
782
00:45:23,371 --> 00:45:25,704
and I think the reason
was that it was on a bend
783
00:45:25,704 --> 00:45:28,496
in Mother Ganga.
784
00:45:28,496 --> 00:45:33,079
The sun rose, straight across
the river, a magnificent sight,
785
00:45:33,079 --> 00:45:37,048
and so the two great symbols
of life - the heat from the sun,
786
00:45:37,064 --> 00:45:40,340
the liquid, the water
from the river - combined.
787
00:45:42,023 --> 00:45:45,981
It is a truly magnificent,
very moving place,
788
00:45:46,007 --> 00:45:49,344
and people come from all over
India, of course, to bathe here.
789
00:45:50,464 --> 00:45:54,047
If you bathe in Mother Ganga
there, with the right attitude,
790
00:45:54,047 --> 00:45:57,526
one would hope you'd get rid
of all your bad karma,
791
00:45:57,534 --> 00:45:58,575
all your demerits;
792
00:45:58,575 --> 00:46:03,784
all your bad deeds are washed
away by the purity of the river.
793
00:46:03,784 --> 00:46:05,867
(SERENE MUSIC)
794
00:46:08,922 --> 00:46:12,713
Jim was really excited about
going back to Varanasi,
795
00:46:12,713 --> 00:46:14,463
but I think, for all of us,
796
00:46:14,463 --> 00:46:16,922
it was really
like the halfway point.
797
00:46:16,922 --> 00:46:18,547
We were halfway up the river.
798
00:46:18,547 --> 00:46:21,843
This was one of the world's
oldest living cities,
799
00:46:21,851 --> 00:46:23,976
and it was the heart
of Hinduism -
800
00:46:23,976 --> 00:46:28,309
you know, very much the
theology of this great river.
801
00:46:28,309 --> 00:46:30,851
And so there was great
excitement amongst all of us,
802
00:46:30,851 --> 00:46:34,351
and, I have to say,
it did not disappoint.
803
00:46:37,112 --> 00:46:39,862
And if you add to that that it
had been continuously inhabited,
804
00:46:39,862 --> 00:46:41,612
at least from the time
of the Buddha,
805
00:46:41,612 --> 00:46:45,862
so at least for 3000 years, and
has been a holy pilgrimage place
806
00:46:45,862 --> 00:46:47,737
for all that time;
807
00:46:47,737 --> 00:46:50,112
and then add to that
the sheer, wacky,
808
00:46:50,112 --> 00:46:52,404
colorful chaos of it all,
809
00:46:53,737 --> 00:46:55,404
then you end up with the fact
810
00:46:55,404 --> 00:46:58,154
that Varanasi is a very
powerful place indeed.
811
00:46:58,154 --> 00:47:00,529
It makes a deep impression.
812
00:47:00,529 --> 00:47:05,320
It's just such a crazy
kaleidoscope of color and sound
813
00:47:05,733 --> 00:47:09,758
and the constant intermingling
of human and other animals.
814
00:47:09,759 --> 00:47:12,259
So it was a city
that seemed chaotic,
815
00:47:12,259 --> 00:47:15,217
but people were nice
to each other -
816
00:47:15,217 --> 00:47:17,255
just in a very stimulating way
817
00:47:17,255 --> 00:47:20,640
and was actually-
I mean, it operated very well.
818
00:47:20,679 --> 00:47:22,846
(SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE)
819
00:47:22,846 --> 00:47:25,096
(PUNGI PLAYS UPBEAT TUNE)
820
00:47:30,637 --> 00:47:32,804
(PUNGI MUSIC CONTINUES)
821
00:47:41,804 --> 00:47:44,096
(UPBEAT MUSIC CONTINUES)
822
00:47:52,020 --> 00:47:54,020
Each morning, these
young guys would come out
823
00:47:54,020 --> 00:47:57,020
and do calisthenics and
literally tie themselves up
824
00:47:57,020 --> 00:47:58,533
in knots.
825
00:48:00,216 --> 00:48:03,799
On one occasion I joined them.
And I was reasonably flexible,
826
00:48:03,799 --> 00:48:07,674
but not as flexible as them -
that is for sure.
827
00:48:08,541 --> 00:48:10,624
(CROWD CHEERS, CLAPS)
828
00:48:11,082 --> 00:48:13,916
And that was part of the
magic of it - engaging with what
829
00:48:13,916 --> 00:48:15,416
the people were doing.
830
00:48:15,416 --> 00:48:19,041
And we were received
by them wonderfully.
831
00:48:20,624 --> 00:48:23,874
(MUSICIANS PLAY
TRADITIONAL MUSIC)
832
00:48:48,274 --> 00:48:50,358
(CONCH PEALS)
833
00:48:53,508 --> 00:48:55,591
(PRAYS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
834
00:48:55,591 --> 00:48:58,758
So, at Varanasi,
we had a second puja.
835
00:49:01,633 --> 00:49:03,716
(CONTINUES PRAYING)
836
00:49:04,283 --> 00:49:09,158
I think that puja in Varanasi
was incredibly important.
837
00:49:09,177 --> 00:49:11,261
(BELL RINGS)
838
00:49:11,261 --> 00:49:12,802
(CROWD JOINS IN PRAYER)
839
00:49:12,802 --> 00:49:14,469
We were halfway
through the journey.
840
00:49:14,469 --> 00:49:16,747
The Himalayas
were still out in front.
841
00:49:16,919 --> 00:49:18,794
But what had happened
in the past,
842
00:49:18,794 --> 00:49:21,627
with the loss of my mother
and my sister,
843
00:49:21,627 --> 00:49:25,002
was still very heavily
upon our hearts.
844
00:49:25,002 --> 00:49:27,377
(BELL RINGS RHYTHMICALLY)
845
00:49:28,252 --> 00:49:30,336
(DRUMS PLAY RAPID BEAT)
846
00:49:33,799 --> 00:49:37,341
So I think that little puja
that we had there
847
00:49:37,341 --> 00:49:42,132
on the Ghats of Varanasi was
a very important occasion.
848
00:49:43,109 --> 00:49:45,026
And I think something
happened for Dad.
849
00:49:45,026 --> 00:49:49,127
I think there was a bit of
levity that came out of that.
850
00:49:49,136 --> 00:49:53,800
And in a way it put to peace
just a little bit
851
00:49:54,136 --> 00:49:57,345
of what had happened
to us in the past.
852
00:49:57,617 --> 00:50:01,326
Something in the puja seemed
to soothe Ed and take away
853
00:50:01,326 --> 00:50:04,784
some of the pain
he was suffering.
854
00:50:04,784 --> 00:50:08,326
And it was good to see the light
come back into his eyes,
855
00:50:08,326 --> 00:50:11,284
particularly seeing the most
exciting part of our expedition
856
00:50:11,284 --> 00:50:12,861
lay just ahead.
857
00:50:12,869 --> 00:50:17,744
I think Ed changed before us,
actually, before our eyes.
858
00:50:18,196 --> 00:50:20,029
It was a very powerful moment.
859
00:50:20,029 --> 00:50:23,904
The climax was floating
fragile little leaf boats
860
00:50:23,904 --> 00:50:28,987
with lighted candles in out
on to the bosom of Mother Ganga.
861
00:50:29,148 --> 00:50:33,232
And we took it as a symbol of
the fact that shortly, our boats
862
00:50:33,232 --> 00:50:37,030
would be as frail
as these little leaf boats
863
00:50:37,055 --> 00:50:41,232
when we tackled the white water
of the mountainous gorge
864
00:50:41,232 --> 00:50:43,315
of Mother Ganga.
865
00:50:44,677 --> 00:50:47,740
(UPBEAT SITAR MUSIC)
866
00:50:57,505 --> 00:51:00,005
Finally we reached
the end of the plains
867
00:51:00,005 --> 00:51:01,657
and were approaching
the mountains.
868
00:51:01,664 --> 00:51:06,367
The river was steepening here
but not yet too steep
869
00:51:07,180 --> 00:51:12,180
for the local milkman to make
his delivery run down the rapids
870
00:51:12,180 --> 00:51:14,555
without spilling a drop.
871
00:51:15,986 --> 00:51:20,236
But just beyond,
the serious white water starts.
872
00:51:21,278 --> 00:51:23,361
The river steepens drastically,
873
00:51:23,361 --> 00:51:27,403
and the banks close in
in deep gorges.
874
00:51:28,641 --> 00:51:33,724
Our spirits rose at the same
time as our trepidation arose.
875
00:51:35,057 --> 00:51:38,307
At Rishikesh, all the local
people were, of course,
876
00:51:38,307 --> 00:51:40,724
quite certain that
we would sink.
877
00:51:41,050 --> 00:51:42,717
They were divided into two.
878
00:51:42,717 --> 00:51:46,009
The pessimists thought
we would undoubtedly sink
879
00:51:46,009 --> 00:51:47,967
in the first rapid
round the corner;
880
00:51:47,967 --> 00:51:53,384
the optimists thought we might
get about 10km up and then sink.
881
00:51:54,140 --> 00:51:57,015
We thought we'd get a little
further, but this did sort of
882
00:51:57,015 --> 00:51:58,931
dent our confidence
a little bit.
883
00:51:58,931 --> 00:52:03,598
So we took the canopies off,
because if a boat did sink,
884
00:52:03,623 --> 00:52:05,681
it might make it difficult
to get out of the boat
885
00:52:05,681 --> 00:52:08,181
with the canopy on. (LAUGHS)
886
00:52:09,140 --> 00:52:10,890
And we wish you all the best,
887
00:52:10,890 --> 00:52:12,931
on behalf of our master
Swami Shivananda-
888
00:52:12,931 --> 00:52:14,056
MAN: May God bless you all!
889
00:52:14,056 --> 00:52:16,473
...and all our prayers with you.
890
00:52:16,473 --> 00:52:19,051
We wish you happy and safe
journey. Come back.
891
00:52:19,076 --> 00:52:20,539
(LAUGHTER)
892
00:52:20,539 --> 00:52:22,372
(SPEAKS LOCAL LANGUAGE)
893
00:52:22,372 --> 00:52:24,456
(ALL CHANT, CHEER)
894
00:52:25,539 --> 00:52:27,622
(UPBEAT MUSIC)
895
00:52:30,539 --> 00:52:32,831
(MAN YELLS, CROWD CHEERS)
896
00:52:38,956 --> 00:52:41,622
We set off, and immediately,
around the first corner,
897
00:52:41,622 --> 00:52:43,206
if I remember rightly,
from Rishikesh,
898
00:52:43,206 --> 00:52:45,164
we came across
a horrendous rapid.
899
00:52:45,164 --> 00:52:46,372
(WATER ROARS)
900
00:52:46,372 --> 00:52:49,122
It really did have some
very big waves in it,
901
00:52:49,122 --> 00:52:50,537
particularly near the bottom.
902
00:52:50,776 --> 00:52:53,400
It really looked like the
pessimists might be right.
903
00:52:54,484 --> 00:52:56,776
(UPBEAT MUSIC CONTINUES)
904
00:53:01,839 --> 00:53:04,339
We lightened the boats
and carried gear
905
00:53:04,363 --> 00:53:07,853
to the top of the rapids
and set up our cameras.
906
00:53:07,869 --> 00:53:09,953
(LIVELY, BUSY MUSIC)
907
00:53:13,161 --> 00:53:16,703
The drivers, Jon and Mike
Hamilton, and Jim Wilson,
908
00:53:16,703 --> 00:53:19,792
decided they'd risk taking
just one passenger each.
909
00:53:19,815 --> 00:53:23,482
And lionhearted Mohan Kohli,
Everest mountaineer,
910
00:53:23,482 --> 00:53:27,273
made the necessary
preparations to go with Jon.
911
00:53:27,273 --> 00:53:29,357
(ENGINE RUMBLES)
912
00:53:31,448 --> 00:53:35,865
My father led the first boat
up through the rapids.
913
00:53:36,786 --> 00:53:41,119
The first path he tried,
he found he couldn't proceed
914
00:53:41,144 --> 00:53:43,080
because of the waves.
915
00:53:43,088 --> 00:53:45,880
He ended up having to cross
to the far side of the river
916
00:53:45,905 --> 00:53:47,988
over some huge waves...
917
00:53:51,099 --> 00:53:53,891
and then made his way up
through the rapids,
918
00:53:53,891 --> 00:53:57,224
crossing back again
up near the top...
919
00:53:57,224 --> 00:53:59,307
(TENSE MUSIC)
920
00:54:00,432 --> 00:54:02,516
(MUSIC RISES)
921
00:54:07,060 --> 00:54:11,018
and finally making
his way out successfully.
922
00:54:12,238 --> 00:54:14,322
(TRIUMPHANT MUSIC)
923
00:54:16,703 --> 00:54:20,453
Ed, in addition to allowing me
to drive the third boat,
924
00:54:20,453 --> 00:54:22,453
traveled with me
in the dangerous water.
925
00:54:22,453 --> 00:54:25,584
I think he felt that if I was to
drown, it would be safer for him
926
00:54:25,593 --> 00:54:28,382
to drown too than to go back
and face Anne and tell her
927
00:54:28,391 --> 00:54:31,558
what he'd done to me.
So Ed was with me in the boat.
928
00:54:31,558 --> 00:54:34,308
And we had to
go across the river
929
00:54:34,849 --> 00:54:39,683
between huge breaking standing
waves and go up the other side.
930
00:54:39,683 --> 00:54:43,764
And as I tried to sidle across
between the two breaking waves,
931
00:54:43,787 --> 00:54:46,121
the boat lurched, and I fell off
the accelerator, and of course
932
00:54:46,121 --> 00:54:48,954
then the boat just
wildly gyrated down
933
00:54:48,954 --> 00:54:50,564
over the next standing waves.
934
00:54:50,587 --> 00:54:53,628
I managed to get back
on to the accelerator.
935
00:54:53,675 --> 00:54:54,925
It was scary just filming,
936
00:54:54,925 --> 00:54:58,384
knowing that if the bow went
under, they were probably gone.
937
00:54:59,088 --> 00:55:01,671
You know, Ed didn't
have to be in a boat at all,
938
00:55:01,671 --> 00:55:05,088
and certainly not with Jim -
the least experienced driver
939
00:55:05,088 --> 00:55:08,165
who'd lost a boat on
a scarily similar rapid
940
00:55:08,181 --> 00:55:10,060
on that first expedition.
941
00:55:11,306 --> 00:55:15,348
I realised I wasn't just filming
a boat battling a rapid;
942
00:55:15,348 --> 00:55:18,468
I was filming an incredible act
of courage and loyalty.
943
00:55:18,491 --> 00:55:20,574
(ENGINE ROARS)
944
00:55:29,471 --> 00:55:33,554
I think, for all of us involved,
this was the...
945
00:55:34,096 --> 00:55:38,262
ultimate expedition,
the ultimate adventure,
946
00:55:38,472 --> 00:55:41,597
partly because
it brought together
947
00:55:41,622 --> 00:55:43,555
so many cultural and religious
948
00:55:43,555 --> 00:55:46,680
and mountain
and adventure themes;
949
00:55:47,745 --> 00:55:51,870
but above all because we were
with a man whom we all
950
00:55:51,870 --> 00:55:54,662
(VOICE BREAKS) really loved.
951
00:55:54,687 --> 00:55:56,579
Ed was not only
a great adventurer
952
00:55:56,579 --> 00:56:01,454
and a tremendous organizer,
but he was a very lovely man.
953
00:56:04,172 --> 00:56:06,214
And once you'd won his trust,
954
00:56:06,214 --> 00:56:09,785
he was the most loyal friend
you could ever hope for.
955
00:56:09,793 --> 00:56:12,584
The fact that he traveled
with me in my boat,
956
00:56:12,584 --> 00:56:16,020
regardless of difficulties
and danger,
957
00:56:16,043 --> 00:56:18,215
the fact that he wanted
his friends
958
00:56:18,215 --> 00:56:22,506
to be part of the expedition
rather than bringing in experts,
959
00:56:22,506 --> 00:56:26,090
the fact that he could change
plans at a moment's notice
960
00:56:26,090 --> 00:56:28,590
if circumstances demanded -
961
00:56:29,416 --> 00:56:33,684
they all added up to a man
who was a very lovely man
962
00:56:33,684 --> 00:56:36,142
and who remained throughout
963
00:56:36,142 --> 00:56:39,100
very humble about his own
extraordinary qualities.
964
00:56:39,100 --> 00:56:40,850
So it's small wonder
that we loved him
965
00:56:40,850 --> 00:56:43,434
and we'd go anywhere with him.
966
00:56:44,225 --> 00:56:46,309
(EERIE, ECHOING MUSIC)
967
00:56:47,067 --> 00:56:49,150
(FLAMES CRACKLE)
968
00:56:54,806 --> 00:56:56,890
(MUSIC QUIETENS)
969
00:57:07,472 --> 00:57:11,639
After the first big rapid,
we saw Mohan taking much longer
970
00:57:11,639 --> 00:57:13,748
over his prayers
than he had previously.
971
00:57:13,757 --> 00:57:17,673
And it worked, because next day,
the rapids were easier
972
00:57:17,673 --> 00:57:19,757
and we had a superb day.
973
00:57:19,757 --> 00:57:21,840
(LIVELY MUSIC)
974
00:57:33,956 --> 00:57:34,958
(BLEATS)
975
00:57:34,958 --> 00:57:37,458
It was really nice jet-boating.
976
00:57:37,458 --> 00:57:40,750
We were traveling up through
a high-sided gorge
977
00:57:40,750 --> 00:57:43,958
with swiftly flowing water
underneath,
978
00:57:43,958 --> 00:57:48,444
and it was really good fun
just driving the boats along
979
00:57:48,469 --> 00:57:50,698
when everything was going well.
980
00:57:52,886 --> 00:57:54,286
(GOATS BLEAT)
981
00:57:54,310 --> 00:57:55,958
(PENSIVE MUSIC)
982
00:57:55,983 --> 00:57:58,310
It was amazing! So unexpected.
983
00:57:58,989 --> 00:58:00,864
Sometimes the river
was calm enough
984
00:58:00,864 --> 00:58:03,754
for the dead-buffalo boatmen
to have a nice day out.
985
00:58:03,762 --> 00:58:05,846
(EASY-GOING MUSIC)
986
00:58:07,214 --> 00:58:09,297
(BLOWS RHYTHMICALLY)
987
00:58:11,630 --> 00:58:14,755
They'd inflate their crafts
to just the right pressure
988
00:58:14,755 --> 00:58:17,172
and share the river with us.
989
00:58:17,172 --> 00:58:19,339
(ENGINE TURNS, RUMBLES)
990
00:58:19,339 --> 00:58:21,422
(SERENE MUSIC)
991
00:58:30,488 --> 00:58:33,792
(ENGINE ROARS)
992
00:58:39,240 --> 00:58:41,307
For petrol-heads like us,
993
00:58:41,315 --> 00:58:44,762
the Chevrolet 5-liter V8
994
00:58:44,806 --> 00:58:48,162
was just a perfect noise.
995
00:58:49,063 --> 00:58:51,855
But that was just
the sort of background
996
00:58:51,855 --> 00:58:53,938
to the roar of the river
997
00:58:54,243 --> 00:58:59,740
and this beautiful waltz
up the wild water.
998
00:59:02,163 --> 00:59:06,621
Ed was really, really happy
on this particular day.
999
00:59:06,656 --> 00:59:11,531
It was like we could go forever
and nothing would stop us.
1000
00:59:15,565 --> 00:59:18,440
It was such tremendous fun,
and I confidently got out
1001
00:59:18,460 --> 00:59:22,194
my big, expensive and
not at all waterproof camera
1002
00:59:22,202 --> 00:59:24,789
and started filming
from the boat itself.
1003
00:59:25,706 --> 00:59:28,331
And then whoa!
Reality check.
1004
00:59:29,195 --> 00:59:32,500
(RAPIDS ROAR)
1005
00:59:35,861 --> 00:59:38,194
Deep down, we knew
this river was deadly.
1006
00:59:38,194 --> 00:59:41,350
Two world-class canoeists
had just drowned in it.
1007
00:59:41,359 --> 00:59:43,775
And I must say, this
freaked me out completely.
1008
00:59:43,775 --> 00:59:48,984
I thought that if experts like
that coming down had drowned,
1009
00:59:48,984 --> 00:59:51,067
who am I to stay alive?
1010
00:59:51,569 --> 00:59:54,402
We also heard that
two young Indian lads
1011
00:59:54,402 --> 00:59:58,147
were trying to raft down,
and they both drowned.
1012
00:59:59,792 --> 01:00:01,417
That tragedy had actually
been witnessed
1013
01:00:01,417 --> 01:00:04,209
by one of our own
film crew - Prem.
1014
01:00:05,048 --> 01:00:07,048
Just 11 years back,
1015
01:00:07,073 --> 01:00:11,499
the tragedy, which I had
actually seen with my own eyes -
1016
01:00:11,524 --> 01:00:14,697
two boys dying
on the same river.
1017
01:00:14,698 --> 01:00:17,500
(MOMENTOUS MUSIC)
1018
01:00:20,970 --> 01:00:23,428
(DRAMATIC, MENACING MUSIC)
1019
01:00:32,732 --> 01:00:36,399
Believe me, within a minute
and a half,...
1020
01:00:37,214 --> 01:00:39,297
I see the raft dashed
1021
01:00:40,464 --> 01:00:45,297
and then disappeared for
a few seconds under the water,
1022
01:00:45,305 --> 01:00:47,471
And then the raft came up.
1023
01:00:47,846 --> 01:00:52,948
Again, I see the raft was
just floating on its own.
1024
01:00:53,677 --> 01:00:56,940
We lost two young boys,
1025
01:00:58,013 --> 01:01:01,804
and it was a most shivering
memory in my mind.
1026
01:01:03,456 --> 01:01:06,664
I was praying all the time
to the God Almighty
1027
01:01:06,664 --> 01:01:10,914
nothing like that should happen
in our expedition
1028
01:01:10,914 --> 01:01:12,997
of Sir Edmund Hillary.
1029
01:01:16,040 --> 01:01:17,373
(EERIE MUSIC)
1030
01:01:17,373 --> 01:01:21,915
It was Prem, filming us from the
shore, who saw his worst fears
1031
01:01:21,915 --> 01:01:24,082
may be about to come true.
1032
01:01:25,036 --> 01:01:29,202
My dad's boat plunged
into a big hole in the rapid
1033
01:01:29,994 --> 01:01:32,536
and disappeared from sight.
1034
01:01:32,773 --> 01:01:36,235
And we just paused
at the top of this wave
1035
01:01:36,268 --> 01:01:40,434
and then dropped nose-first
down into this hole.
1036
01:01:40,434 --> 01:01:43,476
And the water just-
just smashed into us.
1037
01:01:43,476 --> 01:01:45,809
And this wall of green water
1038
01:01:46,090 --> 01:01:48,465
poured over
the front of the boat.
1039
01:01:48,465 --> 01:01:51,756
We had no choice.
We were pinned into the seat.
1040
01:01:51,756 --> 01:01:55,202
And we thought, 'Well, we're
going to sink here, I think.'
1041
01:01:55,217 --> 01:01:56,550
Cos I really did think
we were going to be
1042
01:01:56,550 --> 01:01:58,745
swimming down the Ganga
after that.
1043
01:01:58,753 --> 01:02:03,674
But it was the closest I've ever
been to perhaps being drowned
1044
01:02:03,699 --> 01:02:05,587
in the Ganga.
1045
01:02:05,900 --> 01:02:11,940
He managed to get it ashore,
running on only five cylinders.
1046
01:02:12,937 --> 01:02:14,812
Water was up over
the starter motor
1047
01:02:14,812 --> 01:02:17,509
and up over the spark plugs.
1048
01:02:18,155 --> 01:02:22,089
I had to drain
the engine oil out of it
1049
01:02:22,114 --> 01:02:24,733
before we could
get it going again.
1050
01:02:25,317 --> 01:02:28,526
We ended up pumping the whole
boat out, draining the oil.
1051
01:02:28,526 --> 01:02:30,901
It was sort of bush maintenance
1052
01:02:30,901 --> 01:02:34,022
done on the side of
the river at that point.
1053
01:02:35,104 --> 01:02:37,354
And I said to
Jon Hamilton - I said,
1054
01:02:37,354 --> 01:02:40,979
'I thought you said these boats
were unsinkable.'
1055
01:02:40,979 --> 01:02:44,671
And he said, 'They are. They're
unsinkable when they're afloat!'
1056
01:02:44,938 --> 01:02:47,887
So even the master
can make mistakes.
1057
01:02:48,798 --> 01:02:51,304
The risk, of course, is that
if one of the boats sank,
1058
01:02:51,304 --> 01:02:54,637
someone might also be
lost in the process.
1059
01:02:54,637 --> 01:02:58,215
And that was really unthinkable.
We did not want to do that.
1060
01:02:58,240 --> 01:03:01,137
Dad had never lost anyone
on any of his expeditions,
1061
01:03:01,137 --> 01:03:03,595
and we didn't want to start now.
1062
01:03:03,595 --> 01:03:07,929
Ed always said that we'd
drive until we lost a boat.
1063
01:03:08,942 --> 01:03:14,120
I think he worried about people
getting hurt or dying.
1064
01:03:14,128 --> 01:03:17,545
He'd never lost anyone
before on a trip.
1065
01:03:17,920 --> 01:03:22,252
And if it was his very close
friend Jim Wilson,
1066
01:03:22,277 --> 01:03:26,253
then that would have
been a total disaster.
1067
01:03:26,253 --> 01:03:28,337
(REFLECTIVE MUSIC)
1068
01:03:32,592 --> 01:03:37,800
So, then we come to Rudraprayag
and a really fearsome rapid.
1069
01:03:40,326 --> 01:03:43,701
And there in front of me was
a rapid which I had seen
1070
01:03:43,701 --> 01:03:47,301
in a picture at Rishikesh
before we left,
1071
01:03:47,326 --> 01:03:50,523
and which I'd been having
nightmares about ever since.
1072
01:03:50,523 --> 01:03:52,273
And it was a long,
bouldery rapid.
1073
01:03:52,273 --> 01:03:54,940
It looked very big indeed to me.
1074
01:03:55,815 --> 01:03:57,773
And my nightmares
always ended up
1075
01:03:57,773 --> 01:03:59,523
with the boat splitting in two,
1076
01:03:59,523 --> 01:04:03,190
and me desperately trying to
piece the thing together again.
1077
01:04:03,190 --> 01:04:06,106
So when I saw
this rapid in reality
1078
01:04:06,123 --> 01:04:08,623
and saw that it was worse
than the photograph,
1079
01:04:08,623 --> 01:04:10,865
my heart sank within me.
1080
01:04:11,555 --> 01:04:14,764
Definitely, I think my memory of
sinking the boat in the Arun
1081
01:04:14,764 --> 01:04:16,180
came back to me,
1082
01:04:16,180 --> 01:04:19,357
cos this was the sort of place
where I could very well sink.
1083
01:04:20,081 --> 01:04:22,165
(FOREBODING MUSIC)
1084
01:04:22,626 --> 01:04:26,001
Tensions were certainly high
at the Rudraprayag rapid.
1085
01:04:26,001 --> 01:04:28,626
We weren't at all sure
we could get all three boats
1086
01:04:28,626 --> 01:04:30,111
or even one up.
1087
01:04:30,643 --> 01:04:33,518
Crowds and crowds of people
had come to watch.
1088
01:04:33,543 --> 01:04:38,374
We were performing in front of
them, (LAUGHS) if you like.
1089
01:04:38,935 --> 01:04:42,643
We were told that storekeepers
were leaving their shops open,
1090
01:04:42,643 --> 01:04:46,519
because even the thieves had
gone down to watch the boats.
1091
01:04:47,949 --> 01:04:49,741
So steeling our nerves
as best we could,
1092
01:04:49,741 --> 01:04:52,574
we tackled this dreadful rapid.
1093
01:04:54,767 --> 01:04:57,142
Jon, in his usual
masterful fashion,
1094
01:04:57,142 --> 01:04:58,767
led up this nightmare rapid,
1095
01:04:58,767 --> 01:05:03,136
and I waited with increasing
nervousness at the bottom.
1096
01:05:03,495 --> 01:05:07,820
(HEROIC, SWELLING MUSIC)
1097
01:05:17,703 --> 01:05:20,703
The crowd was
actually laying bets
1098
01:05:21,203 --> 01:05:23,661
on who would get up the rapid.
1099
01:05:23,828 --> 01:05:27,411
And they all put their
money on sadhu Jim,
1100
01:05:27,436 --> 01:05:30,120
because he had the beard,
and he looked like a holy man,
1101
01:05:30,120 --> 01:05:32,995
so he must be able to do it.
But in actual fact,
1102
01:05:33,020 --> 01:05:36,281
Jim was not the best driver
of the expedition. (CHUCKLES)
1103
01:05:37,641 --> 01:05:40,974
The crowds
gathering round, watching,
1104
01:05:40,974 --> 01:05:43,766
were laying their bets on me.
They thought I was a holy man
1105
01:05:43,766 --> 01:05:47,234
and were convinced
I'd already performed miracles.
1106
01:05:47,259 --> 01:05:49,250
And so they thought that
if anyone would get up,
1107
01:05:49,250 --> 01:05:50,500
it would be the holy man.
1108
01:05:50,500 --> 01:05:52,750
So I fervently hoped
that they were right
1109
01:05:52,750 --> 01:05:56,250
and that I could perform
a miracle again.
1110
01:05:56,250 --> 01:05:58,417
(ENGINE ROARS, STRAINS)
1111
01:06:06,938 --> 01:06:11,646
It was difficult driving but not
as bad as I had feared,
1112
01:06:12,124 --> 01:06:16,207
and my nightmare of sinking
the boat and splitting it in two
1113
01:06:16,207 --> 01:06:18,025
was not borne out in reality.
1114
01:06:18,025 --> 01:06:20,108
(CROWD APPLAUDS)
1115
01:06:22,587 --> 01:06:24,670
I was beginning to...
1116
01:06:25,212 --> 01:06:26,254
um,
1117
01:06:26,254 --> 01:06:28,337
grade the rapids
1118
01:06:29,567 --> 01:06:33,280
by a sort of danger scale.
1119
01:06:33,305 --> 01:06:36,817
You know, if a thousand
people turned up,
1120
01:06:36,817 --> 01:06:40,464
then that was relatively easy.
1121
01:06:40,488 --> 01:06:44,446
But if 10,000 people
turned up to watch us die,
1122
01:06:44,450 --> 01:06:46,534
then that was a...
1123
01:06:47,784 --> 01:06:49,867
difficult rapid.
1124
01:06:50,046 --> 01:06:52,130
(TRIUMPHANT MUSIC)
1125
01:06:59,456 --> 01:07:01,997
Ed was definitely
feeling the tension,
1126
01:07:01,997 --> 01:07:05,441
and as each boat got up, his
elation grew,
1127
01:07:05,441 --> 01:07:07,666
and when Mike
and the third boat got up,
1128
01:07:07,691 --> 01:07:11,256
he leapt to his feet
and went, 'Wow!'
1129
01:07:12,766 --> 01:07:17,599
We got without undue trouble
through to the Koteshwar Gorge.
1130
01:07:17,599 --> 01:07:21,391
It had an abrupt drop
at the start of the gorge
1131
01:07:21,429 --> 01:07:22,763
known as 'The Deer's Leap'
1132
01:07:22,763 --> 01:07:25,763
because deer were meant
to have leapt across it.
1133
01:07:25,763 --> 01:07:29,846
Although the whole river
came through a single chute
1134
01:07:29,846 --> 01:07:33,560
at that point, we actually
got up with no trouble.
1135
01:07:38,796 --> 01:07:41,712
We went through the gorge, which
was quite still water but eerie,
1136
01:07:41,728 --> 01:07:44,895
because it was encased
in sheer cliffs
1137
01:07:44,895 --> 01:07:47,386
for a hundred feet
or more above.
1138
01:07:47,402 --> 01:07:49,486
(ENGINES HUM)
1139
01:07:53,844 --> 01:07:57,428
At the top of the gorge,
we came to a chute,
1140
01:07:58,219 --> 01:08:02,386
and this rapid poured down
into a wider part of the river
1141
01:08:02,386 --> 01:08:06,219
that was surging up and down
unpredictably.
1142
01:08:06,858 --> 01:08:10,108
It was an incredible boil of
water, a very steep tongue,
1143
01:08:10,108 --> 01:08:13,150
but the worst feature was that
the force of the water meant
1144
01:08:13,150 --> 01:08:16,662
that sometimes the water
below rose right up
1145
01:08:16,677 --> 01:08:19,885
and the chute was
not very high a jump.
1146
01:08:20,302 --> 01:08:23,969
At other times, huge holes,
boiling holes,
1147
01:08:23,969 --> 01:08:25,211
opened below the chute.
1148
01:08:25,240 --> 01:08:27,055
And, of course, if you went
at the wrong moment,
1149
01:08:27,080 --> 01:08:29,607
you hit almost
a vertical wall of water.
1150
01:08:29,632 --> 01:08:33,132
The bow of the boat would have
plunged into the rapid,
1151
01:08:33,132 --> 01:08:35,757
and we would likely have sunk.
1152
01:08:35,895 --> 01:08:38,645
I was thinking that it was
certainly a place
1153
01:08:38,645 --> 01:08:40,895
where we could lose a boat.
1154
01:08:44,403 --> 01:08:46,487
You only had to look
at the audience.
1155
01:08:46,487 --> 01:08:48,903
To have bothered to come here,
miles from anywhere,
1156
01:08:48,903 --> 01:08:50,403
they must have known
they were going to see
1157
01:08:50,403 --> 01:08:52,112
something spectacular.
1158
01:08:52,570 --> 01:08:54,653
(TENSE MUSIC)
1159
01:08:56,020 --> 01:08:58,436
So, the Dingle Danger Scale
1160
01:08:59,020 --> 01:09:00,781
had a number of factors.
1161
01:09:00,781 --> 01:09:04,740
If the rapid was
particularly remote,
1162
01:09:05,114 --> 01:09:08,031
if they'd had to trek
to get there,
1163
01:09:08,056 --> 01:09:10,521
then that was very high
1164
01:09:10,546 --> 01:09:12,989
on the Dingle Danger Scale.
1165
01:09:15,010 --> 01:09:19,802
None of us were really looking
forward to being on the boats,
1166
01:09:19,802 --> 01:09:21,789
and so there was...
1167
01:09:21,814 --> 01:09:24,293
a great enthusiasm
1168
01:09:24,309 --> 01:09:27,440
to carry gear
1169
01:09:27,476 --> 01:09:29,559
up the sides
1170
01:09:29,584 --> 01:09:32,809
so that the boats were
as light as possible
1171
01:09:32,809 --> 01:09:35,934
and only one person
was going to die.
1172
01:09:38,889 --> 01:09:40,556
The angst had been
reinforced by the fact
1173
01:09:40,556 --> 01:09:44,389
that it was very similar to
a chute in the Clutha River
1174
01:09:44,389 --> 01:09:48,077
in New Zealand where I had,
in fact, come to grief.
1175
01:09:50,358 --> 01:09:54,150
I didn't hit any rocks, but
I was tossed out of the boat,
1176
01:09:54,150 --> 01:09:57,358
and the boat and I floated
back down the river,
1177
01:09:57,358 --> 01:09:59,726
but fortunately I didn't drown.
1178
01:10:00,150 --> 01:10:02,233
(TENSE MUSIC)
1179
01:10:05,610 --> 01:10:09,152
That tended to increase
my trepidation,
1180
01:10:09,152 --> 01:10:11,360
and it would have been
interesting to measure
1181
01:10:11,360 --> 01:10:14,091
the difference in terror
(CHUCKLES)
1182
01:10:14,091 --> 01:10:16,091
between Jon and Mike and me.
1183
01:10:16,091 --> 01:10:19,941
I imagine Jon felt tension
but no terror;
1184
01:10:19,965 --> 01:10:24,880
Mike was probably mildly scared,
and I was plain petrified.
1185
01:10:25,466 --> 01:10:27,758
MIKE G: And we watched
Jon go up first.
1186
01:10:27,758 --> 01:10:30,816
And because the water
is changing all the time -
1187
01:10:30,816 --> 01:10:33,525
it's not constant -
you just have to sit there
1188
01:10:33,525 --> 01:10:35,316
and judge it, and at some point,
1189
01:10:35,316 --> 01:10:37,064
he has to put his foot
on the accelerator
1190
01:10:37,072 --> 01:10:39,405
and just try and leap forward.
1191
01:10:39,405 --> 01:10:41,489
(RAPIDS ROAR)
1192
01:10:42,751 --> 01:10:44,834
(ENGINE RUMBLES)
1193
01:10:47,734 --> 01:10:49,734
Jon hovered for
a very long time,
1194
01:10:49,734 --> 01:10:53,526
and then with incredible skill,
chose his moment
1195
01:10:53,526 --> 01:10:56,609
and just shot through
with virtually no trouble.
1196
01:11:01,865 --> 01:11:05,907
(CHUCKLES) I had to muster
my courage somehow,
1197
01:11:05,907 --> 01:11:08,115
and so I comforted myself
with the thought that
1198
01:11:08,115 --> 01:11:10,532
I must surely, by now,
be undrownable
1199
01:11:10,896 --> 01:11:13,871
because of all the many
occasions in the past
1200
01:11:13,871 --> 01:11:15,992
where I'd had every chance
of drowning and hadn't.
1201
01:11:16,070 --> 01:11:20,612
It wasn't a complete comfort,
and in situations like this,
1202
01:11:20,612 --> 01:11:23,435
my thoughts did go to Ann
and the children, and I felt
1203
01:11:23,436 --> 01:11:25,960
it wouldn't be a very
good idea to drown.
1204
01:11:26,977 --> 01:11:29,602
I went up and hovered
much longer than Jon,
1205
01:11:29,602 --> 01:11:31,269
and the difficulty was
1206
01:11:31,269 --> 01:11:36,144
the water would come up,
and it wouldn't stay there long,
1207
01:11:36,795 --> 01:11:38,504
and then it'd go down again.
1208
01:11:38,504 --> 01:11:40,837
I was waiting to make sure
it was properly up.
1209
01:11:40,837 --> 01:11:44,110
And when I gunned the boat,
it had already started dropping.
1210
01:11:44,664 --> 01:11:48,791
I hit the near vertical wall of
water at the wrong angle.
1211
01:11:48,791 --> 01:11:52,920
The boat swerved
violently to the right.
1212
01:11:53,291 --> 01:11:55,083
I corrected violently
to the left
1213
01:11:55,083 --> 01:11:57,291
and nearly hit
the rock on the left
1214
01:11:57,291 --> 01:11:59,624
and swung just in time,...
1215
01:12:01,398 --> 01:12:04,773
I think missing the rock
only by inches.
1216
01:12:04,898 --> 01:12:07,482
He got thrown a bit to one side,
and then to the other side,
1217
01:12:07,482 --> 01:12:10,078
and we really thought he was
actually going to hit a rock
1218
01:12:10,367 --> 01:12:13,659
and be thrown back
into that turbulent water,
1219
01:12:13,659 --> 01:12:16,034
which really could
have drowned him.
1220
01:12:16,034 --> 01:12:18,701
If I'd hit the rock with
the stern of the boat,
1221
01:12:18,701 --> 01:12:22,034
it would undoubtedly have
taken the whole jet unit off,
1222
01:12:22,034 --> 01:12:24,104
and I would have lost all
control of the boat.
1223
01:12:24,433 --> 01:12:26,392
The boat and I, probably
broadside on, would have been
1224
01:12:26,392 --> 01:12:29,892
swept down into
the boiling water below.
1225
01:12:30,308 --> 01:12:34,389
And I might have survived, and
indeed, since I was a holy man,
1226
01:12:34,397 --> 01:12:36,480
I was undrownable (!)
1227
01:12:40,522 --> 01:12:45,564
And he only missed it by inches
but doused me in the process.
1228
01:12:48,113 --> 01:12:50,946
But he just escaped from it
and got out the top,
1229
01:12:50,946 --> 01:12:54,186
and we were so pleased. There
was a great sigh of relief.
1230
01:12:55,694 --> 01:12:58,819
Mike came up
much more proficiently
1231
01:12:59,027 --> 01:13:02,194
but still hit the tongue
at the wrong angle
1232
01:13:02,194 --> 01:13:04,152
and did a near repeat of mine,
1233
01:13:04,152 --> 01:13:05,819
but not nearly so
close to the rocks.
1234
01:13:05,819 --> 01:13:07,361
So we were all safely through.
1235
01:13:08,014 --> 01:13:11,764
(ENGINE ROARS,
ONLOOKERS APPLAUD, CHEER)
1236
01:13:12,100 --> 01:13:14,183
(TRIUMPHANT MUSIC)
1237
01:13:17,391 --> 01:13:22,266
All the way up the gorges, there
were huge and increasing crowds
1238
01:13:22,266 --> 01:13:26,933
at all the bad rapids as people
came from miles around,
1239
01:13:27,016 --> 01:13:29,850
because the national press
and All India Radio
1240
01:13:29,850 --> 01:13:33,943
and, of course, word of mouth
had been spreading rumors,
1241
01:13:33,950 --> 01:13:38,200
myths about these magic boats
driven by a holy man
1242
01:13:38,908 --> 01:13:41,372
which could fly and
overcome any obstacles.
1243
01:13:41,481 --> 01:13:44,148
And they believed that these
boats could actually jump up
1244
01:13:44,148 --> 01:13:47,023
in the air, and when they came
to an obstacle, a waterfall,
1245
01:13:47,023 --> 01:13:48,801
they could simply jump up it.
1246
01:13:49,200 --> 01:13:52,242
So the combination
of the god Vishnu,
1247
01:13:52,242 --> 01:13:54,200
in the form of Edmund Hillary,
1248
01:13:54,200 --> 01:13:56,912
and these magic boats
was irresistible.
1249
01:13:57,583 --> 01:14:00,542
I blame the papers,
because (CHUCKLES)
1250
01:14:00,542 --> 01:14:04,583
these Jetboats could leap; they
could do backward somersaults.
1251
01:14:04,583 --> 01:14:06,313
These Jetboats
could do anything (!)
1252
01:14:06,320 --> 01:14:10,029
We were on the chariots of gods,
weren't we?
1253
01:14:10,029 --> 01:14:12,112
(ONLOOKERS CHEER)
1254
01:14:13,487 --> 01:14:15,570
(FESTIVE MUSIC PLAYS)
1255
01:14:17,863 --> 01:14:20,446
(MEN CHANT IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
1256
01:14:20,446 --> 01:14:22,738
(DRUMS PLAY FESTIVE BEAT)
1257
01:14:26,780 --> 01:14:29,071
(MAN CONTINUES CHANTING)
1258
01:14:35,166 --> 01:14:38,916
This man, clearly
with very poor eyesight,
1259
01:14:39,416 --> 01:14:44,640
came up to me and put a garland
around my neck and said,
1260
01:14:45,037 --> 01:14:48,040
'You are very great man.
1261
01:14:48,579 --> 01:14:52,204
'What is difference
between you and god?'
1262
01:14:53,303 --> 01:14:57,511
I shuffled about from
one foot to the other and said,
1263
01:14:57,511 --> 01:14:59,845
'Well, I don't know, mate.'
1264
01:14:59,845 --> 01:15:02,011
(ENGINE TURNS, RUMBLES)
1265
01:15:07,345 --> 01:15:09,428
(LIVELY LOCAL MUSIC)
1266
01:15:20,440 --> 01:15:24,399
We'd survived some pretty bad
rapids; we'd driven some others
1267
01:15:24,399 --> 01:15:26,649
with increasing skill,
but we were, by this time,
1268
01:15:26,649 --> 01:15:28,149
getting quite weary.
1269
01:15:28,149 --> 01:15:32,815
And we came to a rapid that had
huge waves in the middle.
1270
01:15:34,149 --> 01:15:36,232
(SOLEMN MUSIC)
1271
01:15:37,297 --> 01:15:39,922
I, by this stage, hated
those big pressure waves,
1272
01:15:39,922 --> 01:15:43,463
and so I tried a route
closer to the shore,
1273
01:15:43,838 --> 01:15:46,672
and I got to a place where
there was a rock either side
1274
01:15:46,672 --> 01:15:51,005
of a tiny trickle, and I glared
at the rock with my yogic powers
1275
01:15:51,005 --> 01:15:55,543
and enlarged the gap ever so
slightly and slipped through.
1276
01:16:01,218 --> 01:16:05,510
We were now looking back on
about 300km of rather difficult,
1277
01:16:05,510 --> 01:16:08,010
I thought, jetboat driving.
1278
01:16:09,338 --> 01:16:13,005
I guess my main feeling was one
of relief that I was still alive
1279
01:16:13,005 --> 01:16:15,505
and that I hadn't sunk a boat.
1280
01:16:19,855 --> 01:16:23,147
What would finally stop us?
Would it be a sinking,
1281
01:16:23,147 --> 01:16:25,689
or would it be something
where we...
1282
01:16:25,689 --> 01:16:29,387
it was just impossible
and we wouldn't even try?
1283
01:16:29,391 --> 01:16:31,308
(ALARMING MUSIC)
1284
01:16:31,308 --> 01:16:33,558
And then we came
to a great waterfall
1285
01:16:33,558 --> 01:16:36,350
right across our path, and, yup,
1286
01:16:36,350 --> 01:16:38,919
we knew this was
the end for the Jetboats.
1287
01:16:38,927 --> 01:16:40,843
I think somebody must have
yelled something out to me,
1288
01:16:40,843 --> 01:16:42,802
'What do you think?'
And I just would have gone,
1289
01:16:42,843 --> 01:16:47,718
'There's no way these boats
are going to get up here. No.'
1290
01:16:49,177 --> 01:16:51,260
(DRAMATIC MUSIC)
1291
01:16:52,570 --> 01:16:54,653
(MUSIC RISES)
1292
01:17:00,446 --> 01:17:03,237
It was an impenetrable barrier.
1293
01:17:03,904 --> 01:17:05,987
(WATER ROARS, RUMBLES)
1294
01:17:06,987 --> 01:17:09,946
It was pretty obvious what would
happen if we'd even, like,
1295
01:17:09,946 --> 01:17:13,837
got the nose of the jetboat
anywhere near that waterfall.
1296
01:17:13,837 --> 01:17:15,504
The nose would have dug in,
1297
01:17:15,504 --> 01:17:18,974
and the boat would have
been just pushed under.
1298
01:17:18,974 --> 01:17:23,557
To the crowd, however, who had
seen the legend of these boats
1299
01:17:23,557 --> 01:17:26,057
growing over some weeks now,
1300
01:17:26,560 --> 01:17:30,310
we were absolute wimps
and had totally failed.
1301
01:17:30,310 --> 01:17:33,268
Someone came up to
Mike Gill and said to him,
1302
01:17:33,268 --> 01:17:37,810
'Why are you not going on?'
And Mike said, 'Well, we can't.
1303
01:17:37,810 --> 01:17:41,143
The Jetboats can't get up
a waterfall like that.'
1304
01:17:41,143 --> 01:17:43,228
'That is not true,' he was told.
1305
01:17:43,228 --> 01:17:46,228
'These boats can leap
20ft or 30ft!
1306
01:17:46,561 --> 01:17:49,353
I have seen it
with my own eyes!'
1307
01:17:49,936 --> 01:17:52,019
(INTREPID MUSIC)
1308
01:17:52,637 --> 01:17:54,929
The next day in
the papers, apparently,
1309
01:17:54,929 --> 01:17:58,554
there were these accusations
of us chickening out
1310
01:17:58,554 --> 01:18:02,095
and not being able
to move on beyond this.
1311
01:18:02,723 --> 01:18:04,932
The Indian press was
disappointed in us,
1312
01:18:04,932 --> 01:18:07,646
because they said
we had magic boats.
1313
01:18:07,654 --> 01:18:11,863
Why did these boats not jump up
this waterfall ahead of us?
1314
01:18:11,863 --> 01:18:14,321
And they suddenly realised that
we were ordinary human beings,
1315
01:18:14,321 --> 01:18:18,779
and we weren't gods,
and our boats had limitations.
1316
01:18:19,139 --> 01:18:22,430
I think it was an
immense disappointment
1317
01:18:22,430 --> 01:18:24,514
to the people of India.
1318
01:18:26,340 --> 01:18:29,882
We were so ashamed
of our inability to...
1319
01:18:30,123 --> 01:18:32,800
perform as expected
1320
01:18:33,248 --> 01:18:36,248
that we crept away with
our tail between our legs
1321
01:18:36,248 --> 01:18:38,706
and decided that as penance,
1322
01:18:38,873 --> 01:18:43,748
we would walk the hundred-odd
kilometers to Badrinath,
1323
01:18:44,539 --> 01:18:48,498
scorning the easier route
of a pilgrim's bus.
1324
01:18:48,563 --> 01:18:50,521
So, mere mortals again,
1325
01:18:50,521 --> 01:18:54,146
no longer holy men,
magicians or deities,
1326
01:18:55,434 --> 01:18:59,934
we walked, at first somewhat
wearily up the road towards
1327
01:18:59,959 --> 01:19:03,910
Badrinath,
one of the holy centers
1328
01:19:03,976 --> 01:19:07,184
at one of the sources
of Mother Ganga.
1329
01:19:07,658 --> 01:19:11,825
Right from the very beginning,
from Ganga Sagar, we were aware
1330
01:19:11,825 --> 01:19:14,533
that we were doing what
every Indian wants to do,
1331
01:19:14,533 --> 01:19:18,554
which is to make a pilgrimage
up the length of the Ganga.
1332
01:19:19,235 --> 01:19:20,652
So that was from the beginning,
1333
01:19:20,652 --> 01:19:23,027
and it was just borne in
on us more and more,
1334
01:19:23,027 --> 01:19:26,307
and when took off on foot,
we left the boats behind,
1335
01:19:26,307 --> 01:19:29,307
we felt even more like pilgrims,
because there were
1336
01:19:29,307 --> 01:19:32,891
people alongside us
doing the same thing.
1337
01:19:32,891 --> 01:19:34,974
(HOOFS CLIP-CLOP)
1338
01:19:34,974 --> 01:19:37,057
(SERENE MUSIC)
1339
01:19:38,084 --> 01:19:40,168
(FALLS RUMBLE)
1340
01:19:43,459 --> 01:19:45,543
(SOFT, SWEEPING MUSIC)
1341
01:19:51,929 --> 01:19:54,970
En route, we climbed
a long series of steps
1342
01:19:54,970 --> 01:19:57,679
up to a lake
sacred to the Sikhs.
1343
01:20:00,287 --> 01:20:02,870
(GENTLE, OSCILLATING MUSIC)
1344
01:20:08,296 --> 01:20:12,255
And as we went, we saw many very
old people making the pilgrimage
1345
01:20:12,255 --> 01:20:15,838
up there, and Ed was moved
to comment that this gave them
1346
01:20:15,838 --> 01:20:20,921
a purpose and a joy in their
later life that was very moving.
1347
01:20:21,421 --> 01:20:23,505
(REFLECTIVE MUSIC)
1348
01:20:25,918 --> 01:20:28,001
(MUSIC RISES)
1349
01:20:44,814 --> 01:20:47,314
(HERALDING DRUMBEAT PLAYS)
1350
01:20:55,454 --> 01:20:57,745
(REFLECTIVE MUSIC RISES)
1351
01:21:06,329 --> 01:21:09,245
(HERALDING DRUMBEAT CONTINUES)
1352
01:21:11,620 --> 01:21:13,704
(PEACEFUL MUSIC)
1353
01:21:19,477 --> 01:21:21,935
And so we reached Badrinath.
1354
01:21:23,393 --> 01:21:27,060
We were sort of on pilgrimage,
but our main aim, of course,
1355
01:21:27,060 --> 01:21:28,538
was to...
1356
01:21:28,538 --> 01:21:32,080
end the journey
from the ocean to the sky.
1357
01:21:32,913 --> 01:21:36,497
And so we started planning
on the final stage -
1358
01:21:36,497 --> 01:21:39,288
the ascent of the
mountain, to the sky.
1359
01:21:39,288 --> 01:21:41,038
(SUDDEN DRUM MUSIC)
1360
01:21:41,038 --> 01:21:44,719
Akash Parbat was to be the peak,
the un-climbed peak,
1361
01:21:44,719 --> 01:21:48,057
that we were heading towards,
just below 20,000ft.
1362
01:21:48,323 --> 01:21:49,989
(DRUM MUSIC)
1363
01:21:50,719 --> 01:21:52,719
When we got to the mountains,
1364
01:21:52,719 --> 01:21:55,511
there was this nurturing love
around Ed,
1365
01:21:55,511 --> 01:21:59,553
because it was the new Ed,
the non-grieving Ed.
1366
01:21:59,626 --> 01:22:01,960
And very much at that point,
1367
01:22:02,067 --> 01:22:06,984
the Graeme Dingles, the Murray
Jones, the next generation of,
1368
01:22:06,984 --> 01:22:09,317
'How do we make these
decisions in the mountains,'
1369
01:22:09,317 --> 01:22:10,567
that was coming to the fore.
1370
01:22:10,567 --> 01:22:12,589
It looks big, but it's light
as a blooming feather.
1371
01:22:12,597 --> 01:22:13,597
All same.
1372
01:22:13,597 --> 01:22:15,597
By golly, we're going to
need those cairns, I think.
1373
01:22:15,597 --> 01:22:16,680
Yeah.
1374
01:22:16,680 --> 01:22:18,097
If this cloud keeps
building up -
1375
01:22:18,097 --> 01:22:21,013
because it's building up
pretty quickly.
1376
01:22:21,013 --> 01:22:23,097
(DAUNTING MUSIC)
1377
01:22:27,456 --> 01:22:30,748
Ed's climbing career
in the Himalayas
1378
01:22:30,789 --> 01:22:32,873
had begun in this place.
1379
01:22:34,257 --> 01:22:36,799
Some of us kind of anticipated
1380
01:22:37,507 --> 01:22:42,299
that indeed, this could be
the place where it ended too.
1381
01:22:43,858 --> 01:22:48,192
Which brings me to the
slightly reckless decision to go
1382
01:22:48,192 --> 01:22:52,858
to altitude without the required
time of acclimatization.
1383
01:22:52,858 --> 01:22:56,800
And that had just become one
of those, 'It's the schedule,'
1384
01:22:56,800 --> 01:22:59,717
you know?
The schedule took over.
1385
01:22:59,717 --> 01:23:04,050
The expedition had to fulfill
its goal, and I think we were
1386
01:23:04,050 --> 01:23:07,280
probably a little bit
bulletproof at that point too.
1387
01:23:08,523 --> 01:23:12,648
The next stage was to establish
a base camp on the mountain
1388
01:23:12,648 --> 01:23:16,440
at about 15,000ft. And we were
in a hurry to get on to this
1389
01:23:16,440 --> 01:23:18,144
and get on up to the summit,
1390
01:23:18,144 --> 01:23:21,186
because we were very worried
about the advent of winter.
1391
01:23:21,186 --> 01:23:22,977
It was now getting late
in the season,
1392
01:23:22,977 --> 01:23:26,519
and we wanted to get
the job over quickly.
1393
01:23:28,248 --> 01:23:31,081
I think time was precious
and all of that sort of thing,
1394
01:23:31,081 --> 01:23:35,415
and Ed felt we had to do it
in a certain amount of time.
1395
01:23:35,415 --> 01:23:37,581
And I said, 'Ed, we're...
1396
01:23:37,998 --> 01:23:40,081
'going up too fast.
1397
01:23:40,480 --> 01:23:42,860
'And if we keep this up,
1398
01:23:43,480 --> 01:23:45,647
'someone's going to die,
1399
01:23:45,813 --> 01:23:48,438
'and it will probably be you.'
1400
01:23:48,438 --> 01:23:50,522
(DRAMATIC MUSIC)
1401
01:23:51,050 --> 01:23:54,126
Ed might have claimed
1402
01:23:54,175 --> 01:23:56,758
that it was the young
climbers pushing him,
1403
01:23:56,758 --> 01:24:00,020
but that's completely untrue.
1404
01:24:00,758 --> 01:24:05,258
All we wanted to do was make
sure that he had a safe...
1405
01:24:05,258 --> 01:24:07,341
ascent,
1406
01:24:07,608 --> 01:24:09,900
and a safe ascent means...
1407
01:24:11,150 --> 01:24:14,840
going up about 1000ft a day
1408
01:24:14,999 --> 01:24:17,082
at his time in life.
1409
01:24:20,916 --> 01:24:26,640
And the plan was that we
would go up 3000ft a day,
1410
01:24:26,765 --> 01:24:28,848
and it's just too much.
1411
01:24:37,227 --> 01:24:40,435
When the porters dumped their
loads off to base camp,
1412
01:24:40,435 --> 01:24:43,810
thankfully, and headed down,
they turned to warn us
1413
01:24:43,810 --> 01:24:47,060
that we would be very foolish
to go on any further,
1414
01:24:47,060 --> 01:24:50,440
because we were trespassing
into the land of the gods,
1415
01:24:50,440 --> 01:24:51,815
and in winter,
1416
01:24:51,815 --> 01:24:56,315
that was territory no mortal
could enter unharmed.
1417
01:24:57,728 --> 01:25:00,895
I personally thought from
my experience that because
1418
01:25:00,895 --> 01:25:03,020
we'd been going up quite slowly,
1419
01:25:03,020 --> 01:25:07,520
we would all be adequately
acclimatized as we went.
1420
01:25:07,663 --> 01:25:10,830
But as we were climbing up,
and we'd reached a height
1421
01:25:10,830 --> 01:25:12,913
of, let's say,...
1422
01:25:13,021 --> 01:25:15,646
14,000ft, 15,000ft, Ed said,
1423
01:25:15,730 --> 01:25:17,813
'Well,...
1424
01:25:18,039 --> 01:25:21,448
'I wouldn't mind
stopping here, actually.'
1425
01:25:21,737 --> 01:25:24,362
And we didn't take any notice.
1426
01:25:24,445 --> 01:25:26,737
Now, we should have
listened to that.
1427
01:25:26,737 --> 01:25:28,987
What height do you
reckon it is, Mike?
1428
01:25:28,987 --> 01:25:33,237
- I'd say roughly 15,000.
- Do we have the altimeter?
1429
01:25:33,404 --> 01:25:36,782
Ed was quite a bit older than
us, and what Ed didn't let on
1430
01:25:36,782 --> 01:25:39,115
was that he'd been suffering
from altitude sickness
1431
01:25:39,115 --> 01:25:42,128
at that altitude quite a lot
over the previous two years,
1432
01:25:42,128 --> 01:25:45,503
since the death of Louise and
Belinda, which was the beginning
1433
01:25:45,503 --> 01:25:50,045
of a very rapid decline in
his tolerance of altitude.
1434
01:25:50,222 --> 01:25:55,180
And so we were heading into
a disaster without knowing it.
1435
01:25:56,889 --> 01:25:58,972
(LOW, EERIE MUSIC)
1436
01:26:04,453 --> 01:26:06,537
(HAUNTING FLUTE MUSIC)
1437
01:26:13,666 --> 01:26:17,333
Altitude sickness
is a ticking time bomb.
1438
01:26:18,874 --> 01:26:20,166
Up where we were climbing,
1439
01:26:20,166 --> 01:26:23,041
there's less than half
the oxygen in the air
1440
01:26:23,041 --> 01:26:25,040
that you'd have
down at sea level.
1441
01:26:25,040 --> 01:26:28,790
And up here, you risk developing
mountain sickness,
1442
01:26:28,790 --> 01:26:33,581
where fluid flows into
the lungs and the brain.
1443
01:26:34,235 --> 01:26:38,693
And Ed insisted on carrying
as much as the rest of us.
1444
01:26:39,027 --> 01:26:41,777
So the very next day,
foolishly, as it turned out,
1445
01:26:41,777 --> 01:26:43,985
we headed on up,
this time without porters
1446
01:26:43,985 --> 01:26:47,318
and carrying all
the loads ourselves.
1447
01:26:49,484 --> 01:26:53,151
Ed was a prodigious
load carrier in his youth,
1448
01:26:53,151 --> 01:26:54,984
and he'd carried
by far the heaviest load
1449
01:26:54,984 --> 01:26:56,984
to the high camp on Everest.
1450
01:26:56,984 --> 01:27:00,776
But that was when he was 33,
and he was now 57.
1451
01:27:01,276 --> 01:27:03,443
(RISING DRAMATIC MUSIC)
1452
01:27:14,739 --> 01:27:16,822
(PIERCING FLUTE MUSIC)
1453
01:27:21,864 --> 01:27:23,989
(TENSE MUSIC CONTINUES)
1454
01:27:27,546 --> 01:27:31,337
And unfortunately my father
had begun to develop
1455
01:27:31,337 --> 01:27:33,712
a condition with altitude.
1456
01:27:34,754 --> 01:27:39,046
Despite his extraordinary
performances on Mt Everest
1457
01:27:39,046 --> 01:27:42,966
and other peaks in those early
years, because he had gone up
1458
01:27:42,966 --> 01:27:47,341
too quickly on some previous
occasions, he had developed
1459
01:27:47,341 --> 01:27:49,514
pulmonary and cerebral oedema.
1460
01:27:49,514 --> 01:27:53,056
And once you've actually
developed those conditions,
1461
01:27:53,056 --> 01:27:55,473
you have a higher
and higher propensity
1462
01:27:55,473 --> 01:27:56,931
to getting them again.
1463
01:27:56,931 --> 01:28:00,200
So our fairly rapid ascent
from Badrinath
1464
01:28:00,200 --> 01:28:04,116
up on to the glacial plateau
beneath Akash Parbat
1465
01:28:04,116 --> 01:28:07,783
proved to be one step
too far for my father.
1466
01:28:07,783 --> 01:28:09,866
(BREATHES HEAVILY)
1467
01:28:13,251 --> 01:28:14,501
One foot in front of the other.
1468
01:28:14,501 --> 01:28:18,876
And obviously the altitude was
not treating him well at all.
1469
01:28:18,876 --> 01:28:23,001
I think we worked out
it must be at least 18,000ft.
1470
01:28:23,001 --> 01:28:25,084
He was distressed.
1471
01:28:25,243 --> 01:28:28,909
He was not in a good way.
He'd lost his color.
1472
01:28:28,909 --> 01:28:31,618
He was fighting with his breath.
1473
01:28:31,618 --> 01:28:35,201
And he carried really
far too heavy a load,
1474
01:28:35,227 --> 01:28:37,311
and we went up too fast.
1475
01:28:37,727 --> 01:28:39,811
And he, and I must say...
1476
01:28:40,186 --> 01:28:41,811
I also,
1477
01:28:41,811 --> 01:28:43,977
were totally exhausted.
1478
01:28:44,769 --> 01:28:46,852
(APPREHENSIVE MUSIC)
1479
01:28:57,973 --> 01:29:00,056
(GENTLE FLUTE MUSIC)
1480
01:29:01,368 --> 01:29:04,493
Ed said he was far more
exhausted reaching here
1481
01:29:04,493 --> 01:29:09,576
than he was reaching the summit
of Everest. But here he was.
1482
01:29:10,143 --> 01:29:12,851
And beneath his feet lay
the greatest, most loved river
1483
01:29:12,851 --> 01:29:16,268
of them all.
And he'd led us all that way.
1484
01:29:17,101 --> 01:29:19,268
(HAUNTING GUITAR MUSIC)
1485
01:29:36,043 --> 01:29:39,834
Well, I was woken up
about 10 o'clock at night
1486
01:29:40,501 --> 01:29:44,084
by Ed screaming out,
saying he wanted Jim.
1487
01:29:44,575 --> 01:29:46,825
And he was obviously
in some pain.
1488
01:29:46,825 --> 01:29:48,825
Murray Jones came
and shook me awake and said,
1489
01:29:48,825 --> 01:29:50,909
'Look, Ed's...
1490
01:29:50,909 --> 01:29:52,200
wants some help.
1491
01:29:52,200 --> 01:29:55,784
He's complaining he's got
a terrible pain in his back.'
1492
01:29:55,784 --> 01:29:57,742
And I thought, 'Well, I suppose
it had something to do
1493
01:29:57,742 --> 01:30:00,833
with carrying a load up here,'
and I gave him a painkiller.
1494
01:30:00,833 --> 01:30:05,083
And an hour later, he said,
'Yep, that felt better now.'
1495
01:30:05,083 --> 01:30:06,792
But the next morning,
we went up,
1496
01:30:06,792 --> 01:30:09,375
and Mingma came to see me and
said, 'Go and see Bara Sahib.
1497
01:30:09,375 --> 01:30:12,833
He no... I not happy
with Bara Sahib.'
1498
01:30:12,833 --> 01:30:15,875
And I went along there, and
Ed was in a stuporous state.
1499
01:30:15,875 --> 01:30:17,848
You could shake him,
and he'd say, 'Ahhh. Ahhh.'
1500
01:30:17,848 --> 01:30:20,876
And he clearly was in the early
stages of cerebral oedema.
1501
01:30:20,876 --> 01:30:24,293
Fluid on the brain,
from high altitude.
1502
01:30:24,803 --> 01:30:26,886
This is...
1503
01:30:26,909 --> 01:30:29,159
a life-threatening illness.
1504
01:30:29,159 --> 01:30:31,034
It can lead to death
within 24 hours.
1505
01:30:31,034 --> 01:30:33,784
Dad was sort of lying there
slurring his words,
1506
01:30:33,784 --> 01:30:35,787
really not coherent at all.
1507
01:30:35,787 --> 01:30:39,662
He looked like a corpse.
He was totally Grey,
1508
01:30:39,745 --> 01:30:44,412
unconscious and didn't look
like he was going to live.
1509
01:30:44,655 --> 01:30:46,739
We all loved Ed dearly,
1510
01:30:46,822 --> 01:30:51,020
and we were desperately worried
that he was about to die.
1511
01:30:51,541 --> 01:30:55,041
As soon as we realised
how serious he was,
1512
01:30:56,333 --> 01:30:59,666
and we knew that
he probably didn't have
1513
01:30:59,666 --> 01:31:04,499
more than 60 minutes to live,
we just collapsed the tent.
1514
01:31:04,588 --> 01:31:08,922
Wrapped him like a cocoon
in ropes - climbing ropes.
1515
01:31:08,922 --> 01:31:13,838
Tied ropes on each end and
dragged him across the plateau
1516
01:31:14,005 --> 01:31:16,755
and then started lowering him,
1517
01:31:16,755 --> 01:31:19,755
just bundled up
in the tent fabric.
1518
01:31:20,476 --> 01:31:25,101
Without really any verbal
communication between us,
1519
01:31:25,280 --> 01:31:28,072
we acted as if we
were separate limbs
1520
01:31:28,072 --> 01:31:30,155
but operating by a...
1521
01:31:30,874 --> 01:31:32,957
single brain.
1522
01:31:33,207 --> 01:31:36,291
We simply collapsed
the tent around Ed,
1523
01:31:36,291 --> 01:31:40,340
wrapped him up in the tent,
still on his air mattress,
1524
01:31:40,340 --> 01:31:44,382
tied ropes to the tent
and started dragging him
1525
01:31:44,424 --> 01:31:46,924
as fast as we could
across the gentle slopes
1526
01:31:46,924 --> 01:31:48,581
of the snow plateau.
1527
01:31:48,581 --> 01:31:53,789
Because the only possible cure
for high-altitude sickness
1528
01:31:53,955 --> 01:31:57,205
is to get down to thick air
and more oxygen.
1529
01:31:57,205 --> 01:32:00,353
And we just started
dragging him across the glacier
1530
01:32:00,353 --> 01:32:03,978
to get down to lower elevations.
And I just remember,
1531
01:32:03,978 --> 01:32:08,311
as with the other members of the
team, just straining on a rope
1532
01:32:08,311 --> 01:32:11,686
out in front, knowing that
if I could do anything,
1533
01:32:11,686 --> 01:32:14,145
I would pull as hard as I could
1534
01:32:14,194 --> 01:32:16,944
to expedite this
and get my father down.
1535
01:32:16,944 --> 01:32:22,361
And foremost in my mind was the
fact that just two years before,
1536
01:32:22,468 --> 01:32:26,135
I'd lost my mother and sister
in an air crash in Nepal.
1537
01:32:26,135 --> 01:32:30,385
Here I was high in the
Himalayas, again, in India.
1538
01:32:30,551 --> 01:32:33,676
Was I about to lose
my father as well?
1539
01:32:37,278 --> 01:32:41,403
People loved Ed. There was
this very powerful emotion
1540
01:32:41,403 --> 01:32:44,480
that drove us on to do
everything we could.
1541
01:32:44,628 --> 01:32:48,795
Peter was particularly worried,
as you could well imagine,
1542
01:32:48,795 --> 01:32:51,933
and he was pulling like a great
draught horse out in front.
1543
01:32:51,933 --> 01:32:53,183
And he was so worried
1544
01:32:53,183 --> 01:32:57,600
that he went over the lip
of the snow plateau
1545
01:32:57,600 --> 01:33:00,789
and on to a very steep snow
slope we had ascended.
1546
01:33:00,789 --> 01:33:02,580
The rest of us realised
what we were doing
1547
01:33:02,580 --> 01:33:05,164
and circled round behind and,
instead of pulling,
1548
01:33:05,164 --> 01:33:08,330
started belaying.
And at one stage, poor Peter
1549
01:33:08,330 --> 01:33:11,764
was pulling not only Ed
but all the rest of the team.
1550
01:33:12,006 --> 01:33:15,715
And we just dropped down off
the side of the mountain,
1551
01:33:15,715 --> 01:33:18,631
descending on the
shortest line possible,
1552
01:33:18,631 --> 01:33:20,880
which is the most
direct line down.
1553
01:33:21,263 --> 01:33:24,805
As soon as we got on
to really steep stuff,
1554
01:33:24,847 --> 01:33:26,763
most of the team gathered round,
1555
01:33:26,763 --> 01:33:29,055
guiding what
you could call a sled,
1556
01:33:29,055 --> 01:33:31,263
but it was the tent
with Ed wrapped up in it,
1557
01:33:31,263 --> 01:33:33,346
and Ding and I at the back
1558
01:33:33,554 --> 01:33:35,429
were finding whatever belays
we could -
1559
01:33:35,429 --> 01:33:37,054
sometimes hopping
into crevasses,
1560
01:33:37,054 --> 01:33:38,649
sometimes getting
good shaft belays.
1561
01:33:38,899 --> 01:33:41,691
Everyone was working absolutely
1562
01:33:41,691 --> 01:33:44,816
as this incredibly
rehearsed team.
1563
01:33:45,233 --> 01:33:49,108
It was like we had rehearsed
this moment for all our lives.
1564
01:33:49,108 --> 01:33:53,149
And we were taking Ed
down vertical ice slopes,
1565
01:33:53,930 --> 01:33:57,055
down through rock...
rock gullies.
1566
01:33:57,358 --> 01:33:58,941
I've never seen
such determination
1567
01:33:58,941 --> 01:34:01,691
in a group of people to achieve-
1568
01:34:01,824 --> 01:34:05,241
put every ounce of their
strength and will
1569
01:34:05,241 --> 01:34:08,546
into getting Ed down to a lower
point where he would recover.
1570
01:34:08,648 --> 01:34:10,731
We dropped really fast.
1571
01:34:10,856 --> 01:34:12,940
I think we lowered him
1572
01:34:13,954 --> 01:34:16,037
about 3000ft
1573
01:34:16,662 --> 01:34:19,412
in not much more
than 60 minutes.
1574
01:34:20,234 --> 01:34:23,526
We didn't film at all.
Our total focus was on Ed
1575
01:34:23,526 --> 01:34:27,950
and our chosen task, and mine
was to carry all the extra gear.
1576
01:34:28,185 --> 01:34:31,477
Here's Mike with an enormous
pack on his back,
1577
01:34:31,477 --> 01:34:35,644
teetering on precarious
crampons right above.
1578
01:34:35,655 --> 01:34:38,322
Had he come off, he and the camp
would possibly have swept
1579
01:34:38,322 --> 01:34:40,345
the lot of us off, although
I'm sure Ding's and my belays
1580
01:34:40,345 --> 01:34:41,578
would have held.
1581
01:34:42,055 --> 01:34:46,139
Mike made it backwards
down this incredible icy...
1582
01:34:46,139 --> 01:34:49,805
it was near vertical
icy slope towards us.
1583
01:34:50,264 --> 01:34:55,139
But somehow I managed to cling
on, and I guess we were just
1584
01:34:55,239 --> 01:34:57,625
so utterly determined
that absolutely none of us
1585
01:34:57,625 --> 01:34:59,625
would die today.
1586
01:34:59,625 --> 01:35:01,708
So when we got
1587
01:35:01,708 --> 01:35:03,791
to the end of the snow,
1588
01:35:04,496 --> 01:35:08,038
we couldn't drag him
any longer, of course.
1589
01:35:08,038 --> 01:35:13,454
So I rather foolishly said, 'I
think I can probably carry him,'
1590
01:35:13,635 --> 01:35:17,219
which was a bit crazy,
because I was 10 stone,
1591
01:35:17,219 --> 01:35:19,302
and he was 18 stone.
1592
01:35:20,551 --> 01:35:23,092
But I contrived a rope harness
1593
01:35:24,838 --> 01:35:26,922
and got him on to my back
1594
01:35:27,505 --> 01:35:29,672
with the help of my mates.
1595
01:35:30,088 --> 01:35:33,213
And we were kind
of tottering along.
1596
01:35:33,275 --> 01:35:35,150
And we carried him -
took turns carrying him -
1597
01:35:35,150 --> 01:35:37,233
and he was a heavy load.
1598
01:35:38,691 --> 01:35:40,108
It was tough going.
1599
01:35:40,108 --> 01:35:43,358
Ed, apparently unconscious
on my back,
1600
01:35:43,358 --> 01:35:46,935
and his head lolling
around by my shoulder.
1601
01:35:47,037 --> 01:35:49,246
Ed was no lightweight
in those days,
1602
01:35:49,246 --> 01:35:53,329
and as he struggled down,
supported on either side,
1603
01:35:53,329 --> 01:35:56,610
Ding said, 'Jeez,
you're a heavy bastard, Ed!'
1604
01:35:56,735 --> 01:35:58,485
And a voice came up
from what we thought
1605
01:35:58,485 --> 01:36:00,934
was a comatose
corpse on his back.
1606
01:36:01,238 --> 01:36:03,321
And he suddenly said,
1607
01:36:04,446 --> 01:36:06,530
"12 stone 5,"
1608
01:36:07,598 --> 01:36:13,260
which was exactly his weight
when he climbed Everest in 1953.
1609
01:36:13,640 --> 01:36:17,640
We all laughed and knew
he was going to survive.
1610
01:36:19,778 --> 01:36:23,195
The fact that Ed could respond
like this to Ding's barb
1611
01:36:23,195 --> 01:36:26,070
gave us real hope that
the real Ed was still there
1612
01:36:26,070 --> 01:36:27,583
and was recovering.
1613
01:36:27,583 --> 01:36:33,675
Murray Jones, immediately
after Mike Gill's announcement,
1614
01:36:33,917 --> 01:36:38,250
shot off back to Badrinath and
managed to get a phone contact.
1615
01:36:38,250 --> 01:36:42,292
And I think the words
'Ed is dying' got through.
1616
01:36:43,856 --> 01:36:48,440
It was quite amazing
the reaction of the Indian army,
1617
01:36:48,923 --> 01:36:53,756
who just wanted to help, because
it was Sir Edmund Hillary.
1618
01:36:53,756 --> 01:36:56,786
And when I asked for one
helicopter, they sent two!
1619
01:36:56,786 --> 01:36:58,869
I was quite impressed.
1620
01:36:59,036 --> 01:37:01,203
But unfortunately, the cloud
cover was coming in,
1621
01:37:01,203 --> 01:37:03,119
and we could hear
the helicopters -
1622
01:37:03,119 --> 01:37:05,244
woomph, woomph,
woomph - overhead.
1623
01:37:05,244 --> 01:37:09,092
But we couldn't see them, and
they couldn't see us, of course.
1624
01:37:09,092 --> 01:37:12,092
So eventually, Peter went on
ahead to base camp
1625
01:37:12,092 --> 01:37:16,640
and brought back a tent
and some bedding for Ed
1626
01:37:16,729 --> 01:37:20,270
and the most essential thing, a
tin of Wattie's canned peaches,
1627
01:37:20,270 --> 01:37:22,157
which was Ed's favourite food.
1628
01:37:22,415 --> 01:37:24,457
It did reach a point
where he was saying,
1629
01:37:24,457 --> 01:37:25,999
'Well, I'm feeling quite
a bit better now.'
1630
01:37:25,999 --> 01:37:30,249
So we could put him down,
gave him a rest, and slowly
1631
01:37:30,249 --> 01:37:32,988
we could walk with him,
supported on either side.
1632
01:37:32,988 --> 01:37:35,238
And we knew we were out of it
by then.
1633
01:37:35,268 --> 01:37:39,727
Cos it's a very short-lived
thing once you get down.
1634
01:37:40,936 --> 01:37:43,644
But he could have died up there.
1635
01:37:44,956 --> 01:37:48,706
We pitched a tent
and all clambered inside,
1636
01:37:49,165 --> 01:37:51,248
and, um, the...
1637
01:37:51,665 --> 01:37:53,748
the sense of team
1638
01:37:54,498 --> 01:37:56,581
and warmth and...
1639
01:37:57,046 --> 01:38:01,088
thankfulness was just
overwhelming, really.
1640
01:38:02,004 --> 01:38:04,088
It was a lovely time.
1641
01:38:04,354 --> 01:38:07,562
And the mood now
was almost euphoric.
1642
01:38:07,812 --> 01:38:09,812
Ed was...
1643
01:38:09,812 --> 01:38:12,146
He was talking to us,
laughing with us.
1644
01:38:12,146 --> 01:38:15,997
He was eating canned peaches.
We knew that he was alive.
1645
01:38:16,341 --> 01:38:18,633
Suddenly, he's got
a smile on his face,
1646
01:38:18,633 --> 01:38:20,928
a little bit of color
in his cheeks,
1647
01:38:20,928 --> 01:38:22,886
And he's enjoying
a little bit of humor.
1648
01:38:22,886 --> 01:38:27,345
And I think the thing that
really told me he was back,
1649
01:38:27,720 --> 01:38:32,303
he was going to be OK,
was someone produced a large can
1650
01:38:32,386 --> 01:38:35,348
of New Zealand Wattie's
canned peaches,
1651
01:38:35,348 --> 01:38:38,598
and he really enjoyed
eating those, and I thought,
1652
01:38:38,598 --> 01:38:40,682
'He's going to be OK.'
1653
01:38:40,807 --> 01:38:44,720
Pete Hillary, at one stage,
said to me,
1654
01:38:44,807 --> 01:38:47,557
he said, 'God, for
a horrible moment then,
1655
01:38:47,557 --> 01:38:52,432
'I thought I'd see my whole
family die in the Himalayas.'
1656
01:38:53,407 --> 01:38:56,657
It must have been
pretty close, you know.
1657
01:38:56,657 --> 01:38:59,157
That form of oedema can just-
1658
01:38:59,366 --> 01:39:04,032
can take out the strongest
people very, very quickly.
1659
01:39:04,032 --> 01:39:05,979
(RISING MUSIC)
1660
01:39:06,027 --> 01:39:07,985
By morning, Murray was back
1661
01:39:07,985 --> 01:39:10,860
after climbing up through
the night with oxygen for Ed.
1662
01:39:10,860 --> 01:39:15,194
And then we heard the joyous
shouts of Indian mountain troops
1663
01:39:15,194 --> 01:39:16,884
who'd also come up to help.
1664
01:39:16,884 --> 01:39:19,801
And then we heard
the helicopter.
1665
01:39:19,843 --> 01:39:22,009
I think we were just
so moved that India,
1666
01:39:22,009 --> 01:39:24,676
who'd taken our expedition
so to heart,
1667
01:39:24,676 --> 01:39:26,926
was right here with us now.
1668
01:39:27,593 --> 01:39:29,676
(HAUNTING FLUTE MUSIC)
1669
01:39:30,667 --> 01:39:34,000
We had no trouble getting Ed
down to this much better
1670
01:39:34,000 --> 01:39:35,875
helicopter landing place.
1671
01:39:35,875 --> 01:39:38,667
The helicopter landed
still on full power.
1672
01:39:38,667 --> 01:39:41,958
So there was a horrendous noise,
wind.
1673
01:39:42,292 --> 01:39:46,500
And Mike Gill assisted Ed.
They got into the helicopter.
1674
01:39:46,500 --> 01:39:50,041
And Mike and Ed ducked
under the rotor blades,
1675
01:39:50,041 --> 01:39:55,208
hopped into the helicopter and
disappeared from our sight.
1676
01:39:55,208 --> 01:39:59,375
And then there was absolute,
complete silence.
1677
01:40:01,113 --> 01:40:04,488
And we were just-
Everyone stood around.
1678
01:40:04,488 --> 01:40:06,571
And then one by one,
1679
01:40:07,196 --> 01:40:09,613
people just collapsed in a heap
1680
01:40:09,613 --> 01:40:11,696
and wept -
1681
01:40:13,162 --> 01:40:15,537
just wept their hearts out.
1682
01:40:16,787 --> 01:40:18,870
It was extraordinary.
1683
01:40:19,412 --> 01:40:21,495
It had been, what,
1684
01:40:21,662 --> 01:40:24,162
two and a half days of just...
1685
01:40:25,029 --> 01:40:28,154
It felt like a knife-edge,
you know?
1686
01:40:28,821 --> 01:40:30,904
Mm. Extraordinary.
1687
01:40:36,335 --> 01:40:38,418
(GASPS, EXHALES)
1688
01:40:42,002 --> 01:40:44,085
(SOLEMN MUSIC)
1689
01:40:48,485 --> 01:40:50,569
The rest of us wept -
1690
01:40:51,527 --> 01:40:56,902
with relief and joy, because
the tension had been incredible.
1691
01:40:56,910 --> 01:41:00,118
And then we slapped each other
on the back, and then we...
1692
01:41:00,118 --> 01:41:01,576
we regrouped.
1693
01:41:01,576 --> 01:41:04,368
And we thought, 'Well,
what Ed would want us to do
1694
01:41:04,368 --> 01:41:07,910
'is to make sure
we get back up to the sky.'
1695
01:41:08,938 --> 01:41:14,146
Really, for Dad, we need to turn
our attentions back up there
1696
01:41:14,391 --> 01:41:19,391
and go and complete our journey,
from the ocean to the sky.
1697
01:41:19,391 --> 01:41:21,557
(RISING DRAMATIC MUSIC)
1698
01:41:21,766 --> 01:41:23,849
So that's what we did.
1699
01:41:24,974 --> 01:41:27,682
(MAJESTIC, TRIUMPHANT MUSIC)
1700
01:41:36,360 --> 01:41:38,652
And we were certainly
doing it for Ed.
1701
01:41:38,652 --> 01:41:42,860
We climbed a lovely snow dome
above the high camp,
1702
01:41:42,922 --> 01:41:46,630
which we named Akash Parbat -
Sky Mountain.
1703
01:41:47,464 --> 01:41:49,630
(MAJESTIC MUSIC BUILDS)
1704
01:41:49,630 --> 01:41:51,714
And Ed got his wish.
1705
01:41:51,797 --> 01:41:53,880
We did touch the sky.
1706
01:41:55,050 --> 01:42:00,167
(MUSIC CRESCENDOS, QUIETENS)
1707
01:42:05,259 --> 01:42:07,342
(SERENE MUSIC)
1708
01:42:13,175 --> 01:42:18,384
Dad fully recovered. In fact,
he lived for another 30 years.
1709
01:42:19,384 --> 01:42:21,384
He married a family friend,
June,
1710
01:42:21,384 --> 01:42:25,092
who'd also lost her partner
in an air crash.
1711
01:42:30,168 --> 01:42:32,459
(BAND PLAYS
'GOD DEFEND NEW ZEALAND')
1712
01:42:32,459 --> 01:42:37,126
He became the New Zealand
High Commissioner to India.
1713
01:42:37,126 --> 01:42:40,459
('GOD DEFEND NEW ZEALAND'
CONTINUES)
1714
01:42:48,376 --> 01:42:52,043
(CHILDREN SING, CHANT
IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
1715
01:42:53,922 --> 01:42:56,880
And for decades more,
he carried on his work
1716
01:42:56,880 --> 01:42:59,172
with his beloved Sherpas,
1717
01:43:00,047 --> 01:43:02,339
building over 30 schools.
1718
01:43:02,339 --> 01:43:04,214
(CHILDREN CONTINUE SINGING)
1719
01:43:04,214 --> 01:43:06,505
(SINGS IN LOCAL LANGUAGE)
1720
01:43:08,539 --> 01:43:10,623
(HAUNTING VOCAL MUSIC)
1721
01:43:11,248 --> 01:43:14,539
PETER: And he went
back to the Ganga...
1722
01:43:16,289 --> 01:43:20,039
with Mike Gill and Jim Wilson
and their kids
1723
01:43:20,623 --> 01:43:24,664
to give them a taste
of the beauty we'd all seen.
1724
01:43:27,066 --> 01:43:29,108
And, yes, if anyone ever asked,
1725
01:43:29,108 --> 01:43:33,483
'What was your favourite
expedition,' we'd always say,
1726
01:43:33,483 --> 01:43:37,524
'It was the time we went
by jetboat up the Ganga.
1727
01:43:40,733 --> 01:43:44,108
That was the best journey
of them all.'
1728
01:43:45,441 --> 01:43:47,483
(ENGINES BUZZ, RUMBLE)
1729
01:43:49,447 --> 01:43:51,780
(IMPASSIONED VOCAL MUSIC)
1730
01:44:07,317 --> 01:44:09,400
(GENTLE SITAR MUSIC)
1731
01:44:53,702 --> 01:44:56,536
(GENTLE SITAR MUSIC CONTINUES)
1732
01:45:15,915 --> 01:45:17,998
(TENDER PIANO MUSIC)
1733
01:45:37,626 --> 01:45:39,709
(SOLEMN, GENTLE MUSIC)
1734
01:45:49,809 --> 01:45:53,580
(POIGNANT CELTIC MUSIC)
131965
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