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(tense music)
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In the Philippine jungle,
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the so-called roads are mostly just sort of tracks.
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(tense music)
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(indistinct chatter)
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Serious accidents happen all the time.
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(tense music)
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But for the farmers of the fertile high plateau,
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the Hansima Highway is the only possible route
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to deliver their goods in the Valley.
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(tense music)
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Whoever drives here must forget about fear.
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(tense music)
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The Hansima Highway is situated in the Northern Philippines,
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on the main Island Lutson.
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The road is 166 kilometers long,
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and runs through the high mountains
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up to an altitude of 3000 meters.
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(tense music)
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Elbert Kelly earns his living by driving a jeepney.
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(car hooting)
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He calls his passengers into his taxi by beeping the horn.
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Twice a day, Albert has a fixed tour
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from Sagada, high up in the mountains, down to the Valley,
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it takes just short of an hour.
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Every tour is an adventure.
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Up here in the high mountains,
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there is frequent fog and heavy rainfall.
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We are used to these weather conditions,
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but it's very difficult for visitors to drive here.
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There's a lot of heavy rainfall
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and the fog is especially treacherous.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(tense music)
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Albert's jeepney is 20 years old
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and compared to local standards, relatively new.
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The vehicle is a replica of an American military truck.
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You'll find these jeepneys all across the Philippines,
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they are the main means of local transport.
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It's tiring if you have to drive every day.
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If you're lucky, you have a fast driver,
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but some of them drive so slowly, it's a time killer.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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The locals expect the to drive fast,
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safety comes second.
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(tense music)
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And then you hear of,
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it's quite crazy, you know? (chuckles)
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but it was fun, we were safe, so.
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(tense music)
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You shouldn't be afraid
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to get on these old vehicles.
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The locals earn very little money,
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and so the ride to the next town
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shouldn't cost more than a few cents.
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Albert's jeepney will be used until it falls apart.
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(tense music)
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the bad weather disappears just as suddenly as it arrived.
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Compared to Philippine standards,
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the climate in the mountains is extraordinarily chilly.
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Temperatures only very seldom rise above 25 degrees.
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Whoever wants to escape from the heat
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spends his holidays in Sagada, where it's cooler.
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(tense music)
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Dennis being ill, lives on the outskirts of Sagada.
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He's a bus driver.
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Before the journey begins, we have to check the tires,
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the screws and the air pressure.
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You can tell by the sound whether they hold enough pressure,
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If you don't have a puncture,
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you're all set for the trip on the Hansima highway.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Dennis is responsible for 50 passengers.
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Before each trip, he services the bus,
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which includes checking the brake fluid,
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as the Hansima highway is steep.
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You may run into an obstacle behind every curve.
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Dennis can tell just by hearing its sound
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whether the engine is running well.
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As long as the engine is looked after well enough,
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and the tires are new,
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even an old car will manage the trip.
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The older your vehicle is,
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the more you need to look after it
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in order to safely make the journey on the highway.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(tense music)
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On this morning, jeepney driver Albert
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is bringing a few tourists up the mountains.
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(tense music)
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Albert loves these extra tours,
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they are the icing on the cake for him.
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(tense music)
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(speaking in foreign language)
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when I'm driving,
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I get to know different people and make new friends.
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I like that, it makes driving so much fun.
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And sometimes I'm lucky
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when someone hires me for a longer trip.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(tense music)
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The art student, Rocky and his friends
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have taken their seats on the roof.
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They are heading for Kalunga,
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where a legendary tattoo artist lives.
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(tense music)
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It's very painful,
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and afterwards your skin is very sensitive.
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You have to be very careful with your arm for a few months.
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Look, that's a unique design for this region.
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And what about you? Are you getting a tattoo?
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(tense music)
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Kalinga is an isolated
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and remote village in the mountains.
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To get there, you must travel a track
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that branches off Hansima highway for the last kilometers.
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Albert picks up a couple of students on his way,
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they are happy to get a ride.
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A few bends further up, Albert's jeepney comes to a halt.
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This is where the road ends.
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Bye bye.
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Rocky and his friends
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have to walk up the mountain the last few kilometers.
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Kalinga is a retreat
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for some of the Philippine Aboriginal natives.
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Their culture always has been rather warlike,
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the tattoos were supposed to deter enemies.
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Fang Od is 96 years old, her legendary reputation
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as the oldest living tattoo artist
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reaches far beyond her home village.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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Yes, I'm in my nineties,
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I still tattooed because we need the money.
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Otherwise we wouldn't have enough to eat.
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We don't have any paddy fields, I have no choice.
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If no one supports me, I'll have to keep on tattooing.
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Fang Od just needs a bamboo cane,
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a needle, and some coal.
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Back in the old days,
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we used to get a tattoo like this if you went to war.
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You'd get one if you killed someone too,
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that's how our ancestors did it.
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Tattoos were mainly connected to warfare.
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For Rocky, this is both a test of courage
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and a desire to closely experience the traditions.
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(tense music)
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As long as there is no road leading up to Kalinga,
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this place will remain remote.
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So for another while, the traditions will be preserved.
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(tense music)
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Back in Sagada, Dennis and his cross-country bus
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is already waiting for passengers.
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Every hour, the buses drive from Sagada
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all the way along the Hansima highway
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to the city of Baguio, almost 150 kilometers away,
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it takes them seven to eight hours.
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Bus driver Dennis drives along
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the Hansima highway every day.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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You know what, I like the Hansima, it's my home.
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For the inhabitants of the mountains,
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the bus is the cheapest way to cover greater distances.
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No matter whether they need to get to the nearest city
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or even to Manila.
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(bus engine revving)
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Dennis has been working as a bus driver for 25 years,
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he never takes a break.
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Only if the bus breaks down, would he take a day off.
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He only gets paid if he drives.
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(tense music)
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The route lease from Sagada,
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down to the river Valley of the Chico river.
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From there, it leads on
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through the craggy mountains to Buguias.
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(playful music)
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In the meantime, the Hansima highway
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has been asphalted in most parts,
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but up here coming down from Sagada,
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the road still looks the same as decades ago,
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narrow bumpy and dusty.
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(soft music)
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There used to be hardly any hard shoulders.
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A trip to Baguio would often take more than 10 hours.
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Sandy is 21 and works as a bus conductor,
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he sells the tickets on the bus.
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A ride to Baguio costs 220 pesos,
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which is not even four Euros.
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For most of the locals, it's half a day's wage.
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(tense music)
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The bus slowly struggles down the road.
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There are an endless amount
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of roadworks on the way downhill.
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The construction workers need to watch out
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for the many buses and trucks,
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they are a permanent threat.
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There are hardly any machines in use at the roadworks.
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Whatever the mixer spits out,
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will be spread out on the road surface
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by the worker's shovels, hard physical labor.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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If we get tired, we slow down,
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but if we have good food, it means we're stronger.
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If we have proper food, for example, beef
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we're happy and strong enough to even carry bigger stones
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and build walls.
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Whoever works here has to learn to make the most of it.
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Sometimes there'll be no cement for a whole day
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which means sitting around all day and waiting.
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But as they say, somehow, it always works out.
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(car engine revving)
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The mini road works on the Hansima highway
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have been obstructing the traffic for many years now,
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the drivers have learned to be patient.
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They hope that one day there will be a paved road
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leading down the mountain.
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(tense music)
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Untiringly, Dennis battles his way
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down the road every day a new.
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(tense music)
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back when the whole highway was like this,
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you used to have only one lane and it was damn slippery.
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Just one false move, one, breaking error,
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if you were at a dangerous spot,
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you'd fall down the canyon.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(tense music)
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During the rainy season, typhoons and huge masses of water
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often lead to landslides and block the road.
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At the dangerous spots,
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the workers build supporting walls into the mountain,
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to stop the slopes from sliding.
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(tense music)
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In some places, the street is a construction site,
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a road and the children's way to school
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all at the same time.
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(tense music)
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When Dennis has finally passed
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the last major roadworks with his bus,
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he arrives at a well-paid section of the Hansima Highway.
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(soft music)
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Down in the Valley,
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the road follows the course of the Chico river
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for a few kilometers.
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During the rainy season, it rises and turns into a torrent.
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(tense music)
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It takes courage and intuition
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to master the bridge across the Chico.
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For years, it's been a patchwork bridge
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made of old logs and planks.
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(tense music)
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The same morning, Albert is driving his taxi
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along the Chico river too.
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(tense music)
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He is driving a very special tour,
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young musicians and dancers.
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Albert is taking them from their high school
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to a performance at the district town of Bon tuck.
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(students singing)
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If the jeepney is full,
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the remaining passengers have to sit on the roof.
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(students singing)
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(tense music)
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Bontauk lies at only 800 meters altitude.
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The temperatures down here are much higher
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and are favorable for the traditional cultivation of rice.
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But Bontok is mainly a business and administration city
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and so most of Albert's tours on the Hansima go there.
268
00:16:21,347 --> 00:16:23,764
(soft music)
269
00:16:26,780 --> 00:16:28,750
The rest of the passengers had to get off
270
00:16:28,750 --> 00:16:31,090
at the outskirts of Bontok.
271
00:16:31,090 --> 00:16:34,200
In the city, passengers are not allowed on the roof,
272
00:16:34,200 --> 00:16:37,428
but making music is always allowed.
273
00:16:37,428 --> 00:16:40,345
(students singing)
274
00:16:50,490 --> 00:16:53,170
The traditional culture and the tribal rituals
275
00:16:53,170 --> 00:16:55,780
are still very much alive here.
276
00:16:55,780 --> 00:16:58,460
Every school often has various groups
277
00:16:58,460 --> 00:17:00,603
who perform dances on the city squares.
278
00:17:02,992 --> 00:17:06,635
(students singing and playing)
279
00:17:06,635 --> 00:17:08,190
(speaking in foreign language)
280
00:17:08,190 --> 00:17:10,400
The elders, which are called warriors,
281
00:17:10,400 --> 00:17:12,003
are our ancestors and models.
282
00:17:12,933 --> 00:17:16,830
(speaking in foreign language)
283
00:17:16,830 --> 00:17:18,630
Back then everyone went out hunting
284
00:17:18,630 --> 00:17:20,723
for boars, deer or water buffaloes.
285
00:17:22,036 --> 00:17:25,649
(speaking in foreign language)
286
00:17:25,649 --> 00:17:28,666
They were warriors and we went out hunting in the mountains.
287
00:17:28,666 --> 00:17:30,897
(speaking in foreign language)
288
00:17:30,897 --> 00:17:34,314
(soft traditional music)
289
00:17:37,150 --> 00:17:39,890
After the tour is before the tour.
290
00:17:39,890 --> 00:17:43,190
Eldred has four kids, his wife earns some extra money
291
00:17:43,190 --> 00:17:45,000
by running a little shop,
292
00:17:45,000 --> 00:17:48,223
but that is just about enough to sustain the family.
293
00:17:53,290 --> 00:17:54,123
(speaking in foreign language)
294
00:17:54,123 --> 00:17:56,240
I need to always be ready to drive.
295
00:17:57,500 --> 00:17:58,710
when I've reached my destination,
296
00:17:58,710 --> 00:18:00,910
I go looking for customers here in the city.
297
00:18:02,869 --> 00:18:05,270
I take a look around, talk to people,
298
00:18:05,270 --> 00:18:06,520
that's the best I can do.
299
00:18:07,840 --> 00:18:10,773
Maybe I find a few tourists that makes an extra money.
300
00:18:11,930 --> 00:18:14,223
I only have to be prepared, then it'll work.
301
00:18:16,740 --> 00:18:19,040
And so Albert has to try his luck
302
00:18:19,040 --> 00:18:21,580
on the Hansima Highway every day anew.
303
00:18:26,976 --> 00:18:29,476
(tense music)
304
00:18:31,490 --> 00:18:34,210
The highway is named after its constructor,
305
00:18:34,210 --> 00:18:37,430
the American engineer Eusebius Hansima.
306
00:18:37,430 --> 00:18:39,310
It was first designed as a footpath
307
00:18:39,310 --> 00:18:41,193
in the twenties of the last century.
308
00:18:42,140 --> 00:18:43,820
For the people living here,
309
00:18:43,820 --> 00:18:47,660
the Hansima is a blessing and a curse at the same time.
310
00:18:47,660 --> 00:18:51,690
It helps develop the region, but also claims many lives
311
00:18:52,657 --> 00:18:55,157
(tense music)
312
00:18:58,490 --> 00:19:00,850
Up until today, it is considered to be
313
00:19:00,850 --> 00:19:03,360
one of the most dangerous roads in the world,
314
00:19:03,360 --> 00:19:05,113
due to its bad condition.
315
00:19:06,920 --> 00:19:08,840
For Dennis and his passengers,
316
00:19:08,840 --> 00:19:11,993
the Hansima is a true challenge every single time.
317
00:19:16,470 --> 00:19:17,420
I think by now
318
00:19:17,420 --> 00:19:19,653
I know every single turn on the Hansima.
319
00:19:20,550 --> 00:19:22,820
with the amount of time I spent driving it,
320
00:19:22,820 --> 00:19:25,243
the street has engraved itself into my memory.
321
00:19:26,330 --> 00:19:30,770
I know the slippery parts, the tricky slopes
322
00:19:30,770 --> 00:19:33,580
and the sections where the rocks come down.
323
00:19:33,580 --> 00:19:36,220
Many horrible accidents have claimed lives here
324
00:19:36,220 --> 00:19:38,950
and cars have fallen into the abyss.
325
00:19:38,950 --> 00:19:40,880
This section might be the worst.
326
00:19:40,880 --> 00:19:42,470
If you applied the brakes carelessly,
327
00:19:42,470 --> 00:19:44,260
you start skidding immediately.
328
00:19:44,260 --> 00:19:47,689
The passengers are aware of the dangers too.
329
00:19:47,689 --> 00:19:49,610
(speaking in foreign language)
330
00:19:49,610 --> 00:19:50,800
This section of the street
331
00:19:50,800 --> 00:19:53,650
has so many bends, horrible.
332
00:19:53,650 --> 00:19:55,563
It's so high up it scares me.
333
00:19:56,620 --> 00:19:57,950
I'm already exhausted
334
00:19:57,950 --> 00:20:00,433
and it's better if I just keep my mouth shut.
335
00:20:07,050 --> 00:20:08,100
Everyone here
336
00:20:08,100 --> 00:20:10,773
has heard stories of horrible accidents.
337
00:20:15,699 --> 00:20:17,070
(speaking in foreign language)
338
00:20:17,070 --> 00:20:18,841
There are many reasons
339
00:20:18,841 --> 00:20:20,123
why so many accidents happen.
340
00:20:22,610 --> 00:20:23,480
Most of them happened
341
00:20:23,480 --> 00:20:25,883
because of technical problems with the old cars,
342
00:20:27,545 --> 00:20:29,410
but the weather also plays a role.
343
00:20:29,410 --> 00:20:31,700
There's dense, fog, rain and worst of all,
344
00:20:31,700 --> 00:20:33,403
typhoons and landslides.
345
00:20:35,110 --> 00:20:37,560
That's the way things happen here on the Hansima.
346
00:20:40,880 --> 00:20:42,530
This road has claimed many lives.
347
00:20:45,610 --> 00:20:49,560
But the Hansima also offers economical opportunities.
348
00:20:49,560 --> 00:20:52,070
A dozen small dealers make money in this village
349
00:20:52,070 --> 00:20:53,573
with the passing traffic.
350
00:20:54,600 --> 00:20:57,433
More than 50 buses stop here every day.
351
00:21:05,950 --> 00:21:07,450
So here we have nuts
352
00:21:07,450 --> 00:21:09,950
with the popular adobo flavor.
353
00:21:09,950 --> 00:21:11,710
We buy it per kilo in the city,
354
00:21:11,710 --> 00:21:13,870
and then put it in small bags.
355
00:21:13,870 --> 00:21:17,313
This has garlic flavored and this is sweet peanut.
356
00:21:19,430 --> 00:21:20,960
Business goes especially well
357
00:21:20,960 --> 00:21:22,860
on the public holidays.
358
00:21:22,860 --> 00:21:25,210
That's when everyone working in the big cities
359
00:21:25,210 --> 00:21:27,723
drives back to their families in the mountains.
360
00:21:34,920 --> 00:21:36,770
After taking a short break,
361
00:21:36,770 --> 00:21:41,235
Dennis continues to force his bus along the winding road.
362
00:21:41,235 --> 00:21:43,735
(tense music)
363
00:21:55,890 --> 00:21:59,233
The Hansima Highway also attracts tourists.
364
00:22:03,670 --> 00:22:05,540
Bikers from the capital city
365
00:22:05,540 --> 00:22:09,799
appreciate the winding ride on the legendary highway.
366
00:22:09,799 --> 00:22:11,771
(tense music)
367
00:22:11,771 --> 00:22:13,620
For a week, this group is traveling the mountains
368
00:22:13,620 --> 00:22:16,763
with their historic British military motorcycles.
369
00:22:17,756 --> 00:22:20,256
(tense music)
370
00:22:23,270 --> 00:22:25,330
Last night was a trial of courage
371
00:22:25,330 --> 00:22:27,770
for the motorcycle club from Manila.
372
00:22:27,770 --> 00:22:29,820
They had to ensure continuous rainfall
373
00:22:29,820 --> 00:22:33,233
with poor visibility for several hundred kilometers.
374
00:22:35,519 --> 00:22:38,602
(indistinct chatter)
375
00:22:42,080 --> 00:22:44,293
This road is not a joke.
376
00:22:45,300 --> 00:22:47,840
Actually, it is my first time here.
377
00:22:47,840 --> 00:22:51,480
And I am lucky enough to have this guys with me.
378
00:22:51,480 --> 00:22:54,990
The ride last night was fun.
379
00:22:54,990 --> 00:22:58,560
Adrenaline thrills, you cannot even see the road
380
00:22:58,560 --> 00:23:00,700
because of the fogs and it's raining
381
00:23:01,560 --> 00:23:06,560
and very very cold, and it's nice, landslide.
382
00:23:06,736 --> 00:23:09,060
(indistinct) it's dangerous, actually.
383
00:23:09,060 --> 00:23:11,955
We're not saying it's a good thing to do.
384
00:23:11,955 --> 00:23:14,658
(tense music)
385
00:23:14,658 --> 00:23:15,950
After last night's wild ride,
386
00:23:15,950 --> 00:23:19,400
the bikers are taking it easy today on their winding tour,
387
00:23:19,400 --> 00:23:21,343
leading ever deeper
388
00:23:21,343 --> 00:23:24,406
into the remote mountains of the high plateau.
389
00:23:24,406 --> 00:23:26,906
(tense music)
390
00:23:30,370 --> 00:23:31,610
in the meantime,
391
00:23:31,610 --> 00:23:34,220
Dennis has already covered half the distance
392
00:23:34,220 --> 00:23:35,703
of the Hansima highway.
393
00:23:36,654 --> 00:23:38,490
(tense music)
394
00:23:38,490 --> 00:23:42,030
He has arrived at the Philippine salad bowl.
395
00:23:42,030 --> 00:23:44,070
This is where all the vegetables for the region
396
00:23:44,070 --> 00:23:47,200
and the capital city Manila, are grown.
397
00:23:47,200 --> 00:23:48,940
The Hansima provides the farmers
398
00:23:48,940 --> 00:23:52,009
with everything they need for agriculture.
399
00:23:52,009 --> 00:23:55,270
(tense music)
400
00:23:55,270 --> 00:23:57,100
Off the highway, there are still
401
00:23:57,100 --> 00:23:59,143
almost only wild tracks though.
402
00:24:01,020 --> 00:24:03,920
Romeo Kaga Young is a farmer.
403
00:24:03,920 --> 00:24:07,210
In order to reach his field, which is three kilometers away,
404
00:24:07,210 --> 00:24:10,048
He must endure a good shaking.
405
00:24:10,048 --> 00:24:11,200
(tense music)
406
00:24:11,200 --> 00:24:13,963
A stream for man and material.
407
00:24:18,557 --> 00:24:20,648
(speaking in foreign language)
408
00:24:20,648 --> 00:24:21,890
When we arrived home after this stretch,
409
00:24:21,890 --> 00:24:23,293
we can still feel the road.
410
00:24:25,739 --> 00:24:27,833
Your hips are hurting, your body's tired.
411
00:24:28,700 --> 00:24:30,300
This path really wears you down.
412
00:24:31,250 --> 00:24:34,150
You should have your wife giving you a massage afterwards.
413
00:24:39,620 --> 00:24:41,410
Today, Romeo and his helpers
414
00:24:41,410 --> 00:24:43,930
are harvesting radish and cabbage.
415
00:24:43,930 --> 00:24:46,050
Afterwards, he has to drive the harvest
416
00:24:46,050 --> 00:24:49,360
directly to the central market at the end of the highway.
417
00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:52,163
Prices are higher if he sells fresh from the field.
418
00:24:56,330 --> 00:24:59,210
His helpers have already started working.
419
00:24:59,210 --> 00:25:02,383
There are no reapers, everything is done by hand.
420
00:25:03,627 --> 00:25:06,127
(tense music)
421
00:25:11,619 --> 00:25:14,200
The radish is washed and packaged already on the field.
422
00:25:14,200 --> 00:25:16,683
The wholesalers expect it that way.
423
00:25:18,210 --> 00:25:21,400
Romeo's job as a farmer has changed considerably
424
00:25:21,400 --> 00:25:22,880
over the past years.
425
00:25:22,880 --> 00:25:26,913
The highway has become much more important for him.
426
00:25:29,350 --> 00:25:33,130
I used to only be a farmer, and I bought a truck.
427
00:25:33,130 --> 00:25:36,523
I suddenly had two professions, farmer and driver.
428
00:25:37,580 --> 00:25:39,780
Because I delivered vegetables for everyone.
429
00:25:40,870 --> 00:25:42,850
I have employees that do the planting for me
430
00:25:42,850 --> 00:25:44,667
because I'm mostly driving now.
431
00:25:46,611 --> 00:25:49,111
(tense music)
432
00:26:02,260 --> 00:26:06,520
Julius Curiab is a sales representative for a seed company.
433
00:26:06,520 --> 00:26:08,090
There is strong competition,
434
00:26:08,090 --> 00:26:10,100
and so he visits the farmers in the fields
435
00:26:10,100 --> 00:26:11,853
to find out what they need.
436
00:26:14,960 --> 00:26:16,550
On these narrow paths,
437
00:26:16,550 --> 00:26:19,110
it's much quicker to take the motorbike.
438
00:26:19,110 --> 00:26:22,343
This way, he can visit up to half a dozen clients a day.
439
00:26:29,430 --> 00:26:30,437
Hey.
440
00:26:30,437 --> 00:26:31,456
How are you?
441
00:26:31,456 --> 00:26:33,290
Hi, I'm Julius from seed works.
442
00:26:33,290 --> 00:26:34,370
Since you're growing carrots,
443
00:26:34,370 --> 00:26:36,370
I brought some seeds for you to try out.
444
00:26:39,570 --> 00:26:41,780
This way, Romeo is able to order his seeds
445
00:26:41,780 --> 00:26:43,453
right in the middle of his field.
446
00:26:49,790 --> 00:26:52,760
Its good for business to come here by motorcycle
447
00:26:52,760 --> 00:26:55,280
and we're used to these kinds of roads.
448
00:26:55,280 --> 00:26:59,020
It's normal for us, even if it's just a bumpy track,
449
00:26:59,020 --> 00:27:00,433
we've learned to live with it.
450
00:27:02,600 --> 00:27:04,800
Romeo and his men must hurry.
451
00:27:04,800 --> 00:27:07,270
If they want the goods to be on the market today,
452
00:27:07,270 --> 00:27:09,856
they have only a few hours left.
453
00:27:09,856 --> 00:27:12,356
(tense music)
454
00:27:13,840 --> 00:27:15,890
If Romeo arrives too late,
455
00:27:15,890 --> 00:27:17,840
he has to wait until the next day,
456
00:27:17,840 --> 00:27:19,570
a great financial loss
457
00:27:19,570 --> 00:27:21,523
because the price will have gone down.
458
00:27:22,463 --> 00:27:24,963
(tense music)
459
00:27:46,380 --> 00:27:49,070
Meanwhile, Dennis is still driving his bus
460
00:27:49,070 --> 00:27:50,563
through the salad bowl.
461
00:27:53,120 --> 00:27:56,450
He and his passengers have already made it halfway,
462
00:27:56,450 --> 00:27:58,033
time for lunch break.
463
00:28:03,830 --> 00:28:06,330
The passengers leave the bus somewhat stiff legged
464
00:28:06,330 --> 00:28:08,650
after the long winding journey.
465
00:28:08,650 --> 00:28:10,600
They have 20 minutes to move around
466
00:28:10,600 --> 00:28:12,450
and quickly take a bite of something.
467
00:28:14,570 --> 00:28:15,580
Dennis has been loyal
468
00:28:15,580 --> 00:28:18,810
to the morning star restaurant for 25 years now.
469
00:28:18,810 --> 00:28:21,193
Ever since he started driving the Hansima.
470
00:28:22,420 --> 00:28:24,181
(soft music)
471
00:28:24,181 --> 00:28:27,310
the lunch costs a hundred pesos, almost two Euros.
472
00:28:27,310 --> 00:28:29,650
For most people, it's a lot of money
473
00:28:29,650 --> 00:28:31,293
and not everyone can afford it.
474
00:28:34,300 --> 00:28:37,840
Dennis and his conductor, Sandy enjoy free catering.
475
00:28:37,840 --> 00:28:40,863
After all, their buses bring customers.
476
00:28:45,090 --> 00:28:46,720
We always eat here,
477
00:28:46,720 --> 00:28:49,793
we eat quickly so we can move on quickly and get home early.
478
00:28:54,770 --> 00:28:58,093
Eat quickly, move on quickly and drive quickly.
479
00:29:00,500 --> 00:29:02,520
They haven't yet made half the journey
480
00:29:02,520 --> 00:29:04,853
and there are still many bends to come.
481
00:29:05,822 --> 00:29:08,239
(soft music)
482
00:29:32,230 --> 00:29:34,323
A few kilometers further on.
483
00:29:37,802 --> 00:29:40,885
(indistinct chatter)
484
00:29:43,030 --> 00:29:46,760
Again and again, severe accidents occur on the highway.
485
00:29:46,760 --> 00:29:49,980
Last year, a school bus with 15 students crashed
486
00:29:49,980 --> 00:29:52,870
and fell a hundred meters into the Canyon.
487
00:29:52,870 --> 00:29:56,310
12 students died, the authors were badly injured.
488
00:29:57,480 --> 00:29:59,397
We have two patients.
489
00:30:02,575 --> 00:30:04,320
Okay, go ahead.
490
00:30:04,320 --> 00:30:07,330
This exercise is supposed to prepare paramedics
491
00:30:07,330 --> 00:30:09,659
for the many accidents.
492
00:30:09,659 --> 00:30:12,742
(indistinct chatter)
493
00:30:15,740 --> 00:30:18,270
All of us are paramedics from the region,
494
00:30:18,270 --> 00:30:21,993
we practice for emergencies as realistically as possible.
495
00:30:23,400 --> 00:30:25,030
These horrible things happen here,
496
00:30:25,030 --> 00:30:27,700
so we practice a lot to learn new techniques
497
00:30:27,700 --> 00:30:29,840
and get a feel for the situation
498
00:30:29,840 --> 00:30:31,817
and how serious the injuries are.
499
00:30:35,380 --> 00:30:38,230
Farmer Romeo's house is in Bugulias,
500
00:30:38,230 --> 00:30:40,810
situated directly at the highway.
501
00:30:40,810 --> 00:30:43,070
From here, it's not far to the fields
502
00:30:43,070 --> 00:30:46,070
and he can head off straight to the central market.
503
00:30:46,070 --> 00:30:49,300
As always, his wife tells him to drive carefully
504
00:30:49,300 --> 00:30:50,850
too much has happened.
505
00:30:50,850 --> 00:30:53,020
And she knows that Romeo is in a hurry
506
00:30:53,020 --> 00:30:54,420
to be at the market on time.
507
00:30:59,125 --> 00:31:02,375
(lorry engine revving)
508
00:31:10,314 --> 00:31:12,720
From Bugulias, which is halfway down the highway,
509
00:31:12,720 --> 00:31:15,860
it takes three to four hours to reach the city of Baguio,
510
00:31:15,860 --> 00:31:18,073
with just 500,000 inhabitants.
511
00:31:19,416 --> 00:31:21,833
(soft music)
512
00:31:25,900 --> 00:31:29,120
Romeo has been driving the highway for more than 20 years,
513
00:31:29,120 --> 00:31:30,630
rain or shine.
514
00:31:30,630 --> 00:31:34,460
Even a bad typhoon couldn't stop him a couple of years ago.
515
00:31:34,460 --> 00:31:36,150
Once, he had a brake failure
516
00:31:36,150 --> 00:31:38,440
and he just about managed to save his truck
517
00:31:38,440 --> 00:31:40,610
by driving into a wall.
518
00:31:40,610 --> 00:31:44,963
Romeo knows the old cars are always good for a surprise.
519
00:31:49,864 --> 00:31:51,197
What happened?
520
00:31:54,976 --> 00:31:55,809
Is it broken?
521
00:31:55,809 --> 00:31:58,760
No, the filter was filled with dirt
522
00:32:01,020 --> 00:32:03,053
so I must have to repair.
523
00:32:08,780 --> 00:32:11,600
This is a, we'll fix it there up.
524
00:32:28,220 --> 00:32:30,990
Romeo is not only a farmer and a driver,
525
00:32:30,990 --> 00:32:33,480
but also a car mechanic by now.
526
00:32:33,480 --> 00:32:35,310
He owns several old trucks
527
00:32:35,310 --> 00:32:37,863
and one of them could always break down.
528
00:32:43,050 --> 00:32:46,967
(speaking in foreign language)
529
00:32:55,225 --> 00:32:57,308
What can you do?
530
00:32:58,226 --> 00:33:00,730
You have to watch out for yourself.
531
00:33:00,730 --> 00:33:02,500
Even in the middle of the night,
532
00:33:02,500 --> 00:33:04,350
do not rely on others
533
00:33:04,350 --> 00:33:06,613
when it comes to fixing your own truck.
534
00:33:10,030 --> 00:33:11,580
Not such a big deal,
535
00:33:11,580 --> 00:33:15,330
the air filter is dirty and Romeo can clean it himself.
536
00:33:15,330 --> 00:33:18,483
It doesn't even take half an hour to repair the damage.
537
00:33:21,799 --> 00:33:24,220
(speaking in foreign language)
538
00:33:24,220 --> 00:33:26,040
Things like these happen often here,
539
00:33:26,040 --> 00:33:26,893
we're prepared.
540
00:33:27,910 --> 00:33:30,923
but only if you fix it immediately, you can save your goods.
541
00:33:31,940 --> 00:33:34,110
I need to be at the central market on time
542
00:33:34,110 --> 00:33:35,903
or else my vegetables will go bad.
543
00:33:48,290 --> 00:33:50,870
So now Romeo will drive even faster
544
00:33:50,870 --> 00:33:53,720
in order to not have to queue up until the next morning
545
00:33:53,720 --> 00:33:56,320
and not to have to sleep over at the central market.
546
00:34:08,602 --> 00:34:09,560
Everywhere along the highway,
547
00:34:09,560 --> 00:34:11,440
the farmers and their families have settled
548
00:34:11,440 --> 00:34:13,750
between the Canyon and the road.
549
00:34:13,750 --> 00:34:16,240
Most of them own only small fields
550
00:34:16,240 --> 00:34:19,763
which are in fact illegal, but the authorities let them be.
551
00:34:20,659 --> 00:34:23,159
(tense music)
552
00:34:26,820 --> 00:34:28,520
Three years ago, a typhoon
553
00:34:28,520 --> 00:34:30,883
dragged a few houses down into the Canyon,
554
00:34:32,261 --> 00:34:34,770
in the meantime, the inhabitants have rebuilt them.
555
00:34:34,770 --> 00:34:37,100
They want to stay on in spite of the danger,
556
00:34:37,100 --> 00:34:39,033
since they have no alternative.
557
00:34:45,250 --> 00:34:47,300
Vilma and Caprio Ki's men are harvesting.
558
00:34:53,461 --> 00:34:54,970
They have grown their coyote fruits
559
00:34:54,970 --> 00:34:57,000
directly into the steep slope.
560
00:34:57,000 --> 00:34:59,773
The selling of the fruits is their sole income.
561
00:35:02,820 --> 00:35:05,370
We've decided to live right at the house
562
00:35:05,370 --> 00:35:07,460
because it's more practical.
563
00:35:07,460 --> 00:35:09,380
That way we can harvest the fruits
564
00:35:09,380 --> 00:35:11,280
and bring them straight to the market.
565
00:35:14,760 --> 00:35:16,620
They have to carry their meager harvest
566
00:35:16,620 --> 00:35:18,680
up the mountain on foot.
567
00:35:18,680 --> 00:35:21,340
During the rainy season, they can hardly set foot
568
00:35:21,340 --> 00:35:24,563
on their field without risking falling down the wet slope.
569
00:35:28,530 --> 00:35:32,650
A sack of these pumpkin like fruits brings them 300 pesetas,
570
00:35:32,650 --> 00:35:34,443
a bit more than five euros.
571
00:35:35,319 --> 00:35:37,736
(soft music)
572
00:35:45,318 --> 00:35:49,544
(speaking in foreign language)
573
00:35:49,544 --> 00:35:52,190
I wish there was somebody there to help us,
574
00:35:52,190 --> 00:35:54,340
then we would immediately leave this place.
575
00:35:56,330 --> 00:35:58,623
Because it's really very, very dangerous.
576
00:35:59,930 --> 00:36:01,697
But this is how we make a living.
577
00:36:03,070 --> 00:36:06,987
(speaking in foreign language)
578
00:36:11,450 --> 00:36:13,603
We worry a lot about the cars.
579
00:36:15,440 --> 00:36:18,393
We try to bring and pick up our children from school,
580
00:36:20,620 --> 00:36:21,803
the traffic is scary.
581
00:36:24,040 --> 00:36:27,093
The street is really dangerous and there are many accidents,
582
00:36:29,062 --> 00:36:30,479
I'm very worried.
583
00:36:35,926 --> 00:36:38,343
(soft music)
584
00:36:50,000 --> 00:36:51,830
Even if he's in a great hurry,
585
00:36:51,830 --> 00:36:53,833
Romeo stops the truck to visit them.
586
00:36:56,104 --> 00:36:57,616
(speaking in foreign language)
587
00:36:57,616 --> 00:36:58,890
Hi, how are you?
588
00:36:58,890 --> 00:37:01,070
Sorry for being so late, but I had a breakdown
589
00:37:01,070 --> 00:37:02,470
and had to clean the filter.
590
00:37:05,260 --> 00:37:07,160
Let's carry your fruit onto the truck.
591
00:37:08,000 --> 00:37:11,917
(speaking in foreign language)
592
00:37:13,820 --> 00:37:16,370
Romeo knows how hard it is for the family
593
00:37:16,370 --> 00:37:19,333
and tries to help them by taking their fruit to the market.
594
00:37:27,800 --> 00:37:30,570
It always tends to get foggy in the afternoon.
595
00:37:30,570 --> 00:37:32,340
During the day, the tropical sun
596
00:37:32,340 --> 00:37:35,060
warms the humid air, it rises.
597
00:37:35,060 --> 00:37:38,220
In the afternoon, it condenses to fog in the mountains
598
00:37:38,220 --> 00:37:39,950
and it starts to rain.
599
00:37:39,950 --> 00:37:41,830
Within a short period of time,
600
00:37:41,830 --> 00:37:45,243
the highway then turns into a dangerously slippery track.
601
00:37:50,200 --> 00:37:52,120
Sometimes there is a change in the weather
602
00:37:52,120 --> 00:37:54,180
from one mountain to the next.
603
00:37:54,180 --> 00:37:57,473
Dennis ended up right in the middle of this dense fog.
604
00:38:06,502 --> 00:38:07,335
(speaking in foreign language)
605
00:38:07,335 --> 00:38:11,180
We know our Hansima, it gets foggy every afternoon,
606
00:38:11,180 --> 00:38:14,093
sometimes it's so bad that you can't see the road anymore.
607
00:38:15,200 --> 00:38:17,600
You have to be very careful to stay on the road.
608
00:38:31,650 --> 00:38:33,710
Farmer Romeo was lucky,
609
00:38:33,710 --> 00:38:35,783
he reached the Valley before fog did.
610
00:38:45,831 --> 00:38:47,000
The Hansima is dangerous,
611
00:38:47,000 --> 00:38:49,340
but at least it doesn't hurt as much.
612
00:38:49,340 --> 00:38:51,910
The bumpy tracks, we usually travel hurt so much,
613
00:38:51,910 --> 00:38:53,410
you can't even sleep at night.
614
00:38:54,760 --> 00:38:56,880
The Hansima has been paved almost everywhere now,
615
00:38:56,880 --> 00:38:58,780
which makes it a bit more comfortable.
616
00:39:02,610 --> 00:39:05,060
In the end, Romeo did make it,
617
00:39:05,060 --> 00:39:07,023
He arrived in the city on time.
618
00:39:10,470 --> 00:39:13,880
And he catches a stand with a cooperative from his village.
619
00:39:13,880 --> 00:39:18,070
It organizes the sale of vegetables for its local farmers.
620
00:39:18,070 --> 00:39:20,690
Romeo is allowed to pass the queue,
621
00:39:20,690 --> 00:39:23,423
but he too has spent whole nights queuing up.
622
00:39:40,284 --> 00:39:42,347
(speaking in foreign language)
623
00:39:42,347 --> 00:39:45,180
I'm very lucky, I didn't have to queue up
624
00:39:45,180 --> 00:39:46,430
and got in straight away.
625
00:39:49,190 --> 00:39:50,813
My cabbage will stay fresh.
626
00:39:55,870 --> 00:39:58,020
The market is run by the state.
627
00:39:58,020 --> 00:39:59,330
Farmers from the whole region
628
00:39:59,330 --> 00:40:01,240
sell their products to the salesmen
629
00:40:01,240 --> 00:40:02,997
coming from the neighboring cities.
630
00:40:04,176 --> 00:40:06,593
(soft music)
631
00:40:14,010 --> 00:40:17,453
Soon, a potential buyer for Romeo's harvest shows up.
632
00:40:19,620 --> 00:40:20,883
You like my vegetables?
633
00:40:22,020 --> 00:40:22,853
Let's see.
634
00:40:22,853 --> 00:40:23,690
How much can you pay?
635
00:40:26,100 --> 00:40:27,650
I'll give you 18 per kilo.
636
00:40:27,650 --> 00:40:30,300
Come on a bit more, I could sell it for more you know?
637
00:40:30,300 --> 00:40:32,050
It doesn't work that way brother.
638
00:40:35,000 --> 00:40:36,550
The customer buys the whole load
639
00:40:36,550 --> 00:40:41,340
for 18 pesos a kilo, 35 cents if converted to euros.
640
00:40:41,340 --> 00:40:44,170
And Romeo has to wrap every single cabbage
641
00:40:44,170 --> 00:40:47,083
into newspaper twice and put them into sacks.
642
00:40:48,286 --> 00:40:51,369
(indistinct chatter)
643
00:40:53,470 --> 00:40:56,420
Great, I quickly sold my cabbage for a good price.
644
00:41:00,900 --> 00:41:03,460
Now he just needs to get rid of his radish
645
00:41:03,460 --> 00:41:05,343
to make this a really good day.
646
00:41:10,110 --> 00:41:12,670
Baguio lies at 1500 meters
647
00:41:12,670 --> 00:41:15,510
and is normally seen as a summer resort,
648
00:41:15,510 --> 00:41:19,350
but it's a fast growing city and so traffic is growing too.
649
00:41:19,350 --> 00:41:21,800
On some days the smog and smut
650
00:41:21,800 --> 00:41:24,440
make it hard for the people to even breathe.
651
00:41:24,440 --> 00:41:27,700
Dennis has been steering his bus along the winding highway
652
00:41:27,700 --> 00:41:29,643
for more than eight hours now.
653
00:41:32,265 --> 00:41:34,690
(speaking in foreign language)
654
00:41:34,690 --> 00:41:37,090
I don't mind the driving,
655
00:41:37,090 --> 00:41:39,233
seven to eight hours are normal for me.
656
00:41:44,220 --> 00:41:45,290
If you give up too easily,
657
00:41:45,290 --> 00:41:47,943
you won't make money and your family stays hungry.
658
00:41:53,950 --> 00:41:56,400
The bus terminal in Baguio.
659
00:41:56,400 --> 00:42:00,150
This is where passengers from all over the country arrive.
660
00:42:00,150 --> 00:42:03,860
Dennis will spend the night here and sleep in his bus,
661
00:42:03,860 --> 00:42:06,870
tomorrow, he'll be back in his living room,
662
00:42:06,870 --> 00:42:08,523
The Hansima highway.
663
00:42:14,643 --> 00:42:18,560
(speaking in foreign language)
664
00:42:25,660 --> 00:42:28,850
Come on Sandy, enough for today.
665
00:42:28,850 --> 00:42:31,360
Let's thank God for driving well and safe
666
00:42:31,360 --> 00:42:32,560
and without an accident.
667
00:42:34,121 --> 00:42:36,621
(tense music)
50221
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