Original subtitles

>>> VERY EXCITING TO BE BACK IN ROME AGAIN.

AT EVERY TURN THERE’S SOMETHING OF HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE.

LOOK AT THAT. IT’S LITERALLY LIKE YOU’RE

LIVING INSIDE A MUSEUM. EVEN IF YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO

ROME, YOU’VE BEEN TO ROME. ITS STORIES HAVE BEEN TOLD AND

RETOLD ON STAGE AND SCREEN. THE CITY OF TOGAS AND

GLADIATORS, POWER AND INTRIGUE, EMPIRE AND RUIN.

AND OF COURSE LA DOLCE, VITA, THE GOOD LIFE.

I’M STANLEY TUCCI, ITALIAN ON BOTH SIDES AND I’M TRAVELING

ACROSS ITALY TO DISCOVER HOW THE FOOD IN THIS COUNTRY’S 20

REGIONS ARE AS UNIQUE AS THEIR PAST.

THE FAMOUS ANCIENTS OF ROME ONCE RULED THE WORLD.

BUT I’M HERE TO DISCOVER HOW IT’S THE FOOD OF ORDINARY ROMANS

THAT HAS CONQUERED OUR HEARTS. BUT I’M GOING TO WARN YOU.

IF YOU’RE ON A LOW CARB DIET, BEWARE.

YOU’RE GOING TO SEE A LOT OF PASTA IN THIS SHOW.

I MEAN LIKE A LOT OF IT, A LOT. ♪

>> I’VE BEEN VISITING ROME FOR DECADES.

ITS BEAUTY AND HISTORY STILL LEAVE MY BREATHLESS, BUT

SOMETIMES IT’S DIFFICULT TO FIND A GOOD MEAL IF YOU DON’T KNOW

WHERE TO LOOK. ROME IS SITUATED IN A REGION

SOMETIMES OVERLOOKED IN FAVOR OF ITS GRANDER GASTRONOMIC

NEIGHBORS LIKE TUSCANY AND UBRIA.

BUT LAZIO HAS FED ROME FOR CENTURIES AND EVERY PART OF THE

SHEEP AND PIGS RAISED HERE IS PUT TO USE IN KITCHENS ACROSS

THE CITY TO MAKE DEEPLY FLAVORSOME FOOD.

TO START MY JOURNEY I’M CATCHING UP WITH MY OLD FRIEND CLAUDIA.

SHE’S LIVED HER VIRTUALLY HER WHOLE LIFE.

AND HER CARDINAL RULE FOR GOOD FOOD IS WHEN IN ROME EAT AS THE

ROMANS DO. >> ARE YOU OKAY?

>> I’M SO HAPPY TO SEE YOU. >> IT WAS A LONG TIME.

>> IT WAS A LONG TIME. SOMEHOW ALMOST 30 YEARS HAS

SLIPPED BY SINCE WE FIRST BECAME FRIENDS WHEN WE WORKED ON A

MOVIE HERE TOGETHER. >> I THINK THAT YOU CAME LAST

TIME ‐‐ >> THE VERY FIRST TIME WAS LIKE

’95. >> NO, I THINK ’93 BECAUSE IT

WAS ‐‐ >> I DIDN’T KNOW I WAS THAT OLD.

>> I KNOW, ME NEITHER. LET’S NOT MENTION IT.

>> CLAUDIA, WANTS TO TAKE ME FOR A CLASSIC ROMAN PASTA LUNCH, BUT

WITH AN HOUR TO KILL WE DECIDE TO GET A COFFEE AND REMINISCE.

>> IT’S A REAL INSTITUTION. >> BUT THAT’S WHERE WE WENT A

LONG TIME AGO. >> YEAH, YEAH.

WE WERE THERE EVERY EVENING YOU KNOW?

>> BACK IN THE ’90s WE USED TO HANG OUT IN A GREAT CAFE IN A

GRIMY PART OF TOWN VERY MUCH ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE RIVER.

AND HERE WE ARE. AND I WAS PLEASED TO HEAR IT’S

STILL GOING STRONG. >> YOU REMEMBER?

>> YES, I DO. I DO.

>> WHAT’S THERE? THE PICTURE YOU GAVE THEM IN

’93. IT IS EXACTLY IN THE SAME PLACE.

I THINK NOTHING CHANGED IN THIS PLACE.

>> NO, IT HASN’T CHANGED. A LITTLE ESPRESSO WOULD BE JUST

ENOUGH TO WHET OUR APPETITES BEFORE WE GO TO LUNCH.

OR SO I THOUGHT. >> I KNOW, I KNOW.

>> WHAT’S THAT? WHO’S JOINING US?

THESE ARE ROMAN BREAKFAST WITH A 2,000‐YEAR‐OLD ROMAN HISTORY.

IN THE MIDDLE AGES THEY WERE ONE OF IT FEW THINGS THE CHURCH

ALLOWED YOU TO EAT DURING LENT. IT DOESN’T SEEM VERY SAINTLY TO

ME. IS IT LIKE A BRIOCHE?

>> IT’S FRIED, A SORT OF DOUGHNUT WITH EGG CREAM.

THE ITALIANS DON’T EAT BREAKFAST LIKE THE AMERICANS OR THE DUTCH

EAT BREAKFAST BECAUSE THEY DON’T EAT EGGS.

IT’S ALWAYS SOMETHING SWEET.

NICE TO SEE YOU AGAIN. CIAO.

AS WE STAGGERED OFF OUR BREAKFAST AND HEADED THROUGH I

NOTICED THE AREA WAS MUCH BUSIER AND HIPPER THAN YEARS AGO.

>> THIS WAS THE POOR QUARTERS. YOU SEE THE BUILDINGS AS NICE AS

THEY ARE ARE VERY SMALL. >> RIGHT.

>> AND THEN, OF COURSE, AS IT HAPPENS, YOU KNOW, THE OLD

QUARTERS GOT VERY TRENDY AND EVERYBODY WANTED TO LIVE HERE.

>> AND THEY BECOME MORE JENTRIFIED.

THE CITY MAY BE CHANGING BUT ONE THING AS CONSTANT AS THE ANCIENT

LANDMARKS IS HOW MUCH PEOPLE IN ROME LOVE THEIR PASTA.

FOUR‐STAR DISHES IN PARTICULAR HAVE BECOME AN EMBLEM OF THE

CITY. AND CLAUDIA IS TAKING ME TO FIND

OUT MORE AT A PLACE SHE SAYS THE IS PANTHEON OF PASTA.

THE RESTAURANT IS FULLY BOOKED. >> BUT WE DON’T CARE.

TELL ME SOME MORE ABOUT PASTA IN ROME.

>> PASTA IN ROME IS LIKE YOU EAT IT EVERY DAY.

I MEAN, YOU DON’T LIVE WITHOUT PASTA.

AND EVERYBODY HAS ITS OWN RECIPE, AND OF COURSE IT’S THE

BEST EVER AND YOURS IS NOTHING COMPARED TO MINE.

>> IT’S TRUE. IT DOES BECOME VERY TERRITORIAL,

DOESN’T IT? >> YEAH.

>> ROMANS REVERE WHAT THEY CALL THE FOUR PASTAS.

>> NICE TO SEE YOU. THANK YOU FOR HAVING ME.

SIMPLE BUT ICONIC DISHES OF STAGGERING DELICIOUSNESS.

THERE ARE CREAMY PASTA MADE WITH MAINLY SHEEP CHEESE AND PEPPER.

ADDED PORK, ITS LUXURIOUS COUSIN WHICH IS ELEVATED WITH EGG YOLKS

AND THIS ROMAN FAVORITE. THEY’RE A BASE FOR A LOT OF

DISHES IN ROME

. THANK YOU SO MUCH.

>> VERY GOOD. >> PASTA IS DELICIOUS.

DELICIOUS. THE SAUCE IS ACTUALLY QUITE

LIGHT, WHICH IS NICE. AND REALLY DELICATE.

>> NO, NO. I KEPT A PLACE IN MY STOMACH FOR

THIS. >> BECAUSE WE DIDN’T EAT THE ‐‐

ACROSS THE CITY EVERY SINGLE DAY ROMANS EAT PASTA THAT HAS

ANCIENT BONDS TO THEIR SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE.

IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE BUT THIS ICONIC FOOD WA

>>> SITTING AT THE BIG, WARM CARBOHYDRATE LOADED HEART OF

ITALIAN CUISINE IS PASTA. AND FITTINGLY FOR THE NATION’S

CAPITAL ROME IS OBSESSED WITH THIS STUFF.

I’VE BEEN PROMISED THE BEST CARBONARA IN THE CITY.

AND I’VE BEEN TOLD TO COME TO THE WORKING CLASS BACK STREETS

AND ASK FOR THE DOM. TELL ME WHAT YOU DO.

>> FOR A TIME I MAKE A SHOW WHERE I PLAY VINYL DISK BUT AT

THE SAME TIME I COOK PASTA. >> HE’S A CHEF, HISTORIAN AND

DEEJAY WHO COOKS ITALIAN FOOD. IT’S REALLY GREAT.

DOM PASTA HAS PROMISED ME THE GREATEST DISH I’VE EVER TASTED

AND ON THE WAY HE TELLS ME WHY PASTA MATTERS SO MUCH TO HIM.

>> I REALIZE ITALIAN FOOD IS POPULAR FOOD.

ITALIAN FOOD IS RETICENT OF THE NORMAL PEOPLE OR WORKING CLASS

PEOPLE THAT EAT WELL BECAUSE THE WORKING CLASS PEOPLE CREATE THE

ROOTS OF THE ITALIAN FOOD. >> YES.

TODAY WE MAY THINK AS A BOWL OF PASTA AS THE ULTIMATE COMFORT

FOOD BUT THERE’S A DISTINCTIVELY UNCOMFORTABLE HISTORY OF

ITALIANS FIGHTING OPPRESSION THROUGH PASTA.

IN THE EARLY 1930s MUSSOLINI AND HIS FASCISTS IMPOSED IMPORT BANS

ON VARIOUS FOREIGN GOODS. THIS LED TO FOOD SHORTAGES,

MALNUTRITION AND A LACK OF WHEAT, WHICH RAISED THE PROSPECT

OF ITALIAN TABLES WITH NO PASTA. IN TYPICAL STYLE RATHER THAN

LIFTING THE IMPORT BANS MUSSOLINI TRIED TO CONVINCE

ITALIANS THAT EATING PASTA WOULD MAKE THEM WEAK, LAZY AND EVEN

SEXUALLY IMPOTENT AND THAT A HIGH PROTEIN DIET WOULD MAKE

THEM MORE PRODUCTIVE AND WAR‐LIKE.

THE CAMPAIGN WAS CLEARLY NOT A SUCCESS.

>> WHEN THE FASCISTS ARRIVED A BIG PART WAS MUS LEANY BUT 30%,

40% IS AGAINST MUSSOLINI. >> IN FACT, PASTA ACTUALLY

BECAME A POWERFUL SYMBOL OF THE RESISTANCE AGAINST HIS FASCIST

REGIME. ARMED WITH THEIR GUNS AND SHEETS

OF PASTA MANY OF THE PARTISANS WHO STOOD UP TO MUSSOLINI LIVED

IN THESE VERY STREETS. >> AND THE GREAT AXIS RAIL YARDS

FROM WHICH TROOPS AND SUPPLIES ARE FORWARDED TO SOUTHERN

ITALY ‐‐ >> DURING WORLD WAR II THIS AREA

BORE THE BRUNT OF ALLIED BOMBINGS THAT AIMED TO DISRUPT

THE NEARBY RAIL HUB. TRAGICALLY OVER 1,000 PEOPLE

WERE KILLED. THIS IS IN ESSENCE LIKE A

MONUMENT. >> YEAH.

YOU CAN SEE THE EFFECTS OF THE WAR.

PEOPLE DEAD, THE FAMILY DEAD. AND ALL THIS AREA IS BOMBED.

>> THIS PARTICULAR SQUARE WAS HOME TO A HUGELY POPULAR

LOCAL ‐‐ BEFORE THE WAR. THE OWNERS WIFE AND ALL BUT ONE

OF THEIR CHILDREN DIED WHEN THE BUILDING WAS HIT DURING THE

BOMBING. AFTER THE WAR THE LOCAL

COMMUNITY RAISED FUNDS FOR THE SURVIVING FATHER AND SON TO

REOPEN THE RESTAURANT AGAIN. THE BOYS STARTED WORK HERE AGED

JUST 8. AND AMAZINGLY HE’S STILL HERE

TODAY. >> IT’S THE STORY OF ROMAN FOOD.

>> BEAUTIFUL. ALDO NOW RUNS THE RESTAURANT

ALONGSIDE HIS DAUGHTER ROSANNA. PEOPLE COME ACROSS THE CITY AND

APPARENTLY FURTHER TO ENJOY THE COMFORT OF ALDO’S FAMILY FOOD.

SO TELL ME ABOUT CARBONARA. CARBONARA IS A ROMAN DISH, BUT

WE DON’T KNOW WHEN IT WAS INVENTED, RIGHT?

ONE STORY I’D ALWAYS HEARD IS THAT CARBONARA CAME ABOUT WHEN

AMERICAN SOLDIERS IN ROME DURING THE WAR STARTED MISSING THEIR

BACON AND EGGS BACK HOME AND WANTED THEM ADDED TO SPAGHETTI.

ALDO, HOWEVER, HAS HIS OWN THEORY

. >> IT SEEMS SOME THINGS ARE

DESTINED TO REMAIN ROMAN MYTHS. WHAT EVERYONE CAN AGREE ON IS

THAT THE CARBONARA HERE IS INCREDIBLE

. I KNOW, I KNOW.

YOU HAVE BASICALLY FOUR INGREDIENTS ‐‐ PASTA, EGGS,

THE ‐‐ AND CHEESE. THAT’S IT.

BUT WHEN I TRY IT AT HOME IT’S NEVER THIS GOOD.

MY MOTHER DOES THAT, TOO. WHEN I TASTE PASTA LIKE THIS I

UNDERSTAND WHY IT REMAINS SO IMPORTANT TO THE CITY.

ROME MAY BE THE SEAT OF POWER AND RELIGION BUT IT’S

OVERWHELMINGLY A WORKING CLASS TOWN.

THIS IS SIMPLE FOOD THAT’S BEEN ELEVATED OVER CENTURIES BY

PEOPLE MAKING THE BEST OF WHAT LITTLE THEY HAD AVAILABLE.

THEY’RE RIGHTLY PROUD THAT THEIR HUMBLE FOOD HAS COME TO DEFINE

ITALY TO T

>>> I’VE HEADED 5 MILES OUT OF THE CITY CENTER USING THE NEWLY

EXTENDED METRO LINE. ROMANS HAD A REPUTATION FOR

RESISTING CHANGE, AND THE ARRIVAL OF THE SUBWAY IN 2014

HAS SHAKEN UP OLD, POOR NEIGHBORHOODS OF THE CITY.

NOWHERE MORE SO THAN CENTO C CELLE.

GENTRIFICATION IS MOVING IN ON THIS NEIGHBORHOOD AND FOOD IS ON

THE FRONT LINE. >> GENTOCELLE IS A ROMAN NAME.

IT’S 100 JAIL IN ENGLISH. >> 100 JAILS?

>> EXACTLY. >> THERE MAY NEVER HAVE ACTUALLY

BEEN 100 JAILS HERE, BUT WHAT THIS AREA DOES HAVE IS THREE NEW

SUBWAY STATIONS ALL IN CLOSE PROXIMITY.

>> THIS CHANGES THE GAME. A LOT OF PEOPLE CAME HERE TO TRY

TO INVEST A BIT. >> IS THAT WHERE WE’RE GOING?

LET’S GO IN AND SEE. IT’S LONG HAD A ROUGH

REPUTATION. THAT’S CHANGING FAST, THOUGH.

AND ONE PLACE SEEN BY SOME AS GROUND ZERO FOR THE

TRANSFORMATION OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD IS A DELI.

HE OPENED THIS PLACE WELL BEFORE THE METRO ARRIVED.

HE WANTED TO REHABILITATE THE SURROUNDING LAZIO’S REGION

REPUTATION FOR FOOD AND BRING THE BEST OF THE COUNTRYSIDE BACK

FOR HIS NEIGHBORS TO ENJOY AT FAIR PRICES.

CAN I TASTE SOME? PEP RENO CHEESE IS MADE FROM

SHEEPS MILK AND ROME IS FAMOUS FOR IT.

HISTORICALLY THEY WERE RAISED AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO CROPS.

HE SEARCHES FOR UNLIKELY PLACES FOR CHEESE THAT ALSO HELPS HIS

COMMUNITY. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?

OH, OKAY. ONLY IN ITALY WOULD AN ANCIENT

CHEESE RECIPE BE SAVED BY PRISONERS.

THAT’S DELICIOUS. AS WELL AS SHEEPS MILK CHEESE,

PORK FINDS ITS WAY INTO ALMOST EVERY DISH I’VE HAD IN ROME.

HISTORICALLY PIGS WERE RAISED ALL AROUND THE CITY BECAUSE THEY

NEED LESS SPACE THAN OTHER ANIMALS.

TO ME VINCHENZO IS DOING SOMETHING AMAZING.

OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS ANOTHER 50 TO 60 FOOD PLACES HAVE OPENED

UP NEARBY.

>> ROMANS ARE RENOWNED FOR THEIR STURBEN RESISTANCE TO CHANGE.

I GUESS IT’S WHAT’S KEPT THE CITY STANDING FOR CENTURIES.

BUT HE WANTS TO SHOW ME ANOTHER AFF

CAFE IN THE AREA, ONE OF MANY THAT HAS OPENED IN RECENT YEARS.

I WASN’T FULLY PREPARED FOR WHAT WE FOUND.

>> IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE BUT A FEW MONTHS AGO THIS PLACE WAS A

THRIVING CAFE AND BOOKSHOP CALLED THE ELECTRIC SHEEP.

ON THE NIGHT OF APRIL 25, 2019, HER CAFE WAS FIRE BOMBED.

SHE SET ABOUT REBUILDING HER BUSINESS, BUT SHOCKINGLY THE

NIGHT BEFORE SHE WAS DUE TO REOPEN THE ATTACKERS STRUCK

AGAIN. THREE LOCAL BUSINESSES HAVE NOW

BEEN ATTACKED LIKE THIS HERE INCLUDING A PIZZA PLACE AND THIS

JAZZ BAR. THE POLICE STILL HAVEN’T FOUND

WHO’S RESPONSIBLE. BECAUSE SHE HOSTED COMMUNITY

EVENTS AT THE CAFE INCLUDING ANTI‐FASCIST TALKS SUSPICION HAS

FALLEN ON THE FAR‐RIGHT. BUT OTHERS HERE BLAME LOCAL

CRIMINALS PROTECTING THEIR OLD TURF OR EVEN ANTI‐GENTRIFICATION

CAMPAIGNERS. IS THIS HAPPENING IN OTHER PARTS

OF ROME, TOO? >> NO.

>> WHEN CHANGE HAPPENS, ROMANS RESIST.

BUT WHOEVER DID THIS HAS MADE IT DANGEROUS TO SELL FOOD.

IT SEEMS BRUTAL TO ATTACK RESTAURANTS AND

>>> TUCKED IN A CURVE OF THE RIVER TIBUR IS ‐‐ ONCE KNOWN AS

THE BELLY OF ROME. HOME TO THE OLD SLAUGHTERHOUSE

THAT SUPPLIED 19th AND 20th CENTURY ROMANS WITH MEAT.

SO TELL ME ABOUT THIS PLACE. >> THIS IS THE RETIRED

SLAUGHTERHOUSE. AND FOR ABOUT 100 YEARS UNTIL

THE 1970s IT’S WHERE MOST LARGE ROMAN ANIMALS WERE SLAUGHTERED

BASICALLY FROM LAMBS ALL THE WAY UP THROUGH STEER.

>> THIS FOUR‐SQUARE MILE SITE WILL BE REDEVELOPED INTO A

CULTURAL AREA, BUT FOR NOW SIGNS OF ITS FORMER LIFE ARE

EVERYWHERE. AND WHERE IS THE ‐‐ OH, YEAH,

THE TRACKS FOR THE CARCASSES, YEAH.

KATEY IS A REKNOWN FOOD WRITER WHO SWAPPED NEW JERSEY FOR ROME

ALMOST 20 YEARS AGO. >> SKINNING HAPPENED THERE.

IT’S AN ORGANIZED PLACE WITH SO MANY PAVILIONS COVERING A VAST

AREA AND REALLY INFLUENCING THE TYPES OF FOODS THAT WOULD BE

EATEN JUST ACROSS THE STREET AT THE LATE 19th AND EARLY 20th

CENTURY. >> IN BUTCHERY THE ANIMAL IS

QUARTERED, AND THOSE CUTS WENT STRAIGHT UP TO THE UPPER AND

MIDDLE CLASS KITCHENS. EVERYTHING LEFTOVER, THE BLOOD,

BRAINS AND INTESTINES WAS CALLED THE QUINTO QUARTO, THE FIFTH

QUARTER. AND THOSE WERE LEFT TO THE POOR.

SOME WORKERS WERE EVEN PAID INSTEAD OF MONEY, SO THEY HAD

LITTLE CHOICE BUT TO MAKE THE BEST OF IT.

SANTO PALATO. IF YOU KNOW HOW TO COOK AWFO YOU

CAN TURN THE POOREST INTO THE RICHERS OF DISHES.

AND KATEY WANTS ME TO MEET A YOUNG CHEF WITH A GROWING

REPUTATION FOR DOING AMAZING THINGS WITH INNARDS.

>> SHE’S GOING TO MAKE A FRITATTA FOR US, AND IT’S TOPPED

WITH CHICKEN INNARDS. >> SO EVERYTHING WE FOCUS ON

HERE IN THE RESTAURANT IS AWFO. ONE EGG PER PERSON, OKAY.

THROUGHOUT IT DAY, HAVE IT FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER?

>> YEAH, I LIKE IT A SANDWICH. >> THAT’S WHAT I USED TO TAKE

WHEN I WAS A KID TO SCHOOL. >> THE CHEF GAVE UP MEDICAL

SCHOOL TO PURSUE HER DREAM OF OPENING A RESTAURANT.

>> THE STOMACH, THE HEART AND THE LIVER.

>> IN ROME YOU FIND RICOTTA AND CHICKEN ORGANS SEPARATELY, BUT

SHE’S COMBINED THEM.

SMELL IT. DON’T FORGET ABOUT THIS BREAD.

>> WOW, YEAH. NICE AND HOT, TOO.

THAT’S GREAT. >> THANK YOU.

>> THAT IS GREAT. >> THIS IS REALLY SPECIAL.

AND I THINK IT’S A REALLY GOOD DEMONSTRATION OF WHAT SARAH DOES

REALLY WELL, WHICH IS TAKING ROMAN CLASSIC FLAVORS AND

COMBINING THEM IN A WAY THAT’S NEW BUT NOT REVOLUTIONARY OR

EXTRA CONTEMPORARY. THEY JUST MAKE SENSE TODAY.

>> WE TAKE A SEAT IN THE DINING ROOM.

WHAT’S THAT? IS A REALLY UNUSUAL TEXTURE,

TOO, ISN’T IT? SO BREAK DOWN WHAT THE AWFO ARE

HEART, LIVER, STOMACH, TONGUE, BRAINS, SNOUT, INTESTINES.

>> THE WHOLE HEAD REALLY IF YOU THINK ABOUT IT.

>> IF PASTA IS THE FIRST PILLAR OF ROMAN FOOD THE ASTONISHING

USE OF AWFO IS DEFINITELY THE SECOND.

SOMEHOW POOR ROMANS TURNED THESE UNPROMISING CUTS INTO SHEER

CULINARY POETRY.

I LOVE OXTAIL. >> I’M SO INTO IT.

>> THAT’S REALLY GOOD. >> AND THIS IS DEFINITELY A MORE

CARNIVOROUS CITY THAN A FISH CITY.

EVEN THOUGH WE’RE 15 MILES FROM THE SEA, THAT WAS REALLY, REALLY

FAR IN PRE‐1970 STANDARDS BEFORE ICE AND REFRIGERATION.

>> YEAH. >> SO THIS IS THAT HONEYCOMB

TRIBE WITH ALL THOSE BEAUTIFUL POCKETS, LOTS OF NICE STOMACH

GEOMETRY GOING ON. >> I’VE NEVER HEARD IT DESCRIBED

AS STOMACH JEGEOMETRY. THAT IS REALLY GOOD.

>> IT’S BOILED MULTIPLE TIMES AND CLEANED MANY TIMES WITH

TOMATO AND MINT. GO TO ANOTHER PLACE WHERE IT’S

INCLUDED AND IT’S PREPARED DIFFERENTLY.

>> STEWED STOMACH MAY NOT SOUND APPEALING, I KNOW, BUT BELIEVE

ME THESE ARE REALLY TASTY FLAVORS.

THE ROMAN POOR DIDN’T HAVE MUCH TO WORK WITH, BUT AGAINST THE

ODDS THEY WOUND UP MAKING SOME OF THE VERY BEST FOOD IN THE

CITY. WHAT CAN I SAY?

♪

>>> THANK YOU VERY MUCH. THANK YOU, THANK YOU.

WE’RE HERE IN ROME, AND IT’S THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE YEAR.

NO, IT’S NOT CHRISTMAS. IT’S ARTICHOKE SEASON.

RIGHT NOW MARKETS ACROSS THE CITY ARE HUMMING WITH THE SOUND

OF PEOPLE HACKING AWAY AT ROME’S FAVORITE VEGETABLE.

SO SHOW ME THE ARTICHOKES. AS I’VE BEEN FINDING OUT WITH

ROMAN FOOD YOU SOMETIMES HAVE TO DIG A LITTLE TO GET TO THE GOOD

STUFF. SO THIS IS WHERE THE ‐‐

ONCE TRIMMED THEY CAN BE DEEP FRIED TO MAKE ONE OF MY ALL‐TIME

FAVORITE ROMAN FOODS, JEWISH FRIED ARTICHOKES.

YOU KNOW, MY GRANDMOTHER AND MY MOTHER WOULD MAKE THESE.

ASK ANYONE HERE AND THEY’LL TELL YOU THIS WEIRD LOOKING VEGETABLE

IS A DEFINITIVE ROMAN FOOD. THANK YOU SO MUCH.

BUT WHAT I LOVE IS THAT UNDER THOSE ROUGH OUTER LEAVES IT

CONTAINS AN ENTIRE HISTORY, A STORY OF HOW SOCIETY’S OUTCASTS

CAN CHANGE THE HABITS OF AN ENTIRE CITY.

THESE PICTURESQUE RUINS ONCE CONTAINED THE MISERY OF ROME’S

JEWISH GHETTO. FROM 1500s ONWARDS THE CITY’S

ENTIRE JEWISH COMMUNITY WAS LOCKED IN THIS WALLED AREA.

ONLY ALLOWED TO LEAVE TO DO MENIAL JOBS IN THE DAYTIME

BEFORE BEING LOCKED IN AT NIGHT.

SHE’S IN HER 80s AND HAS LIVED HERE HER WHOLE LIFE.

WHEN THE NAZIS SEIZED ROME IN OCTOBER 1943, THE GHETTO WAS A

SITTING TARGET. AND ITS 1,204 RESIDENTS WERE

SENT TO THE GAS CHAMBERS. ITALIA WAS JUST A HANDFUL WHO

ESCAPED WHEN HER GRANDFATHER HID HER OUTSIDE THE CITY.

FOR THE FEW WHO SURVIVED FOOD BECAME A VITAL LINK BACK TO

THEIR PAST. THE JEWS OF ROME HAD LIVED IN

POVERTY FOR CENTURIES AND WERE FORCED TO RELY ON THE CHEAPEST

OF INGREDIENTS

. >> USING TYPICAL ROMAN

INVENTIVENESS THE JEWS TRANSFORMED UNLOVED INGREDIENTS

LIKE ANCHOVIES, EGGPLANTS AND ARTICHOKES INTO DISHES THAT

ENTIRE CITY WOULD EVENTUALLY TAKE TO ITS HEART.

ALONGSIDE PASTA AND OFFAL THE INFLUENCE OF JEWISH COOKING IS

THE THIRD PILLAR OF JEWISH CUISINE TODAY.

IN THIS KITCHEN ITALIA AND HER TEAM RAISE THE HUMBLE ARTICHOKE

INTO FOOD FOR THE AGES

. THAT WAS DONE YESTERDAY, COOKED

IN THE OIL, AND REFRIGERATED. ALL RIGHT, WE’RE SPREADING OUT

THE LEAVES. THEY’RE PRE‐COOKED.

LOOK AT HOW BEAUTIFUL THAT IS.

>> THAT’S THE BEST ONE I’VE HAD. THAT IS DELICIOUS.

IT’S SO ADDICTIVE. IT’S LIKE EATING CANDY.

YOU JUST CAN’T STOP. IT’S SO CRISPY.

>> PEOPLE LOVE IT, YEAH. THIS DISH TELLS A STORY.

IT HAS SURVIVED THE DARKEST OF TIMES.

AND LINKS US TO A PAST THAT WAS ALMOST WIPED OUT.

TO ME, IT’S A TYPE OF HISTORICAL MONUMENT IN ITALIAN COOKING.

NOW BELOVED BY

>>> IT’S MY LAST NIGHT IN ROME. DURING MY TIME HERE, I’VE

LEARNED THAT ABOVE ALL ELSE, FOOD IN ITALY IS ABOUT WHO YOU

ARE AND WHERE YOU’RE FROM. BUT WHERE DOES THAT LEAVE YOU IF

YOU’RE AN OUTSIDER? I’VE COME TO BISTRO 64, A

RESTAURANT THAT HAS WON A MICHELIN STAR.

THE CHEF IS AN OUT OF TOWNER, BUT HE’S NOT FROM NAPLES OR

MILAN. HE’S FROM JAPAN.

STANLEY. >> NICE TO MEET YOU.

>> NICE TO MEET YOU, TOO. >> HE WAS LURED HERE 20 YEARS

AGO BY HIS OBSESSION WITH THE FLAVORS OF ITALIAN CUISINE.

>> HIS FOOD HAS WON PRAISE FOR ITS CREATIVITY.

BUT TONIGHT, HE’S MAKING THE SIMPLEST ROMAN CLASSIC, ONE OF

THE FAMOUS FOUR PASTAS. LITERALLY, CHEESE AND PEPPER.

THERE ARE JUST THREE MAIN INGREDIENTS, BUT IT TAKES GREAT

SKILL TO MAKE THIS ROMAN FAVORITE PERFECT.

>> OF COURSE, ANOTHER ITALIAN KITCHEN SECRET.

>> COULD TAKE A WHILE.

>> I KNOW YOU MAY BE THINKING THIS IS LUDICROUSLY SIMPLE FOOD.

BUT BELIEVE ME, IT’S EXTRAORDINARY.

AND DON’T JUST TAKE MY WORD FOR IT.

WHERE IS KAREN? KAREN?

COME HERE. OKAY.

>> OKAY. >> THIS IS KAREN, WHO WORKS WITH

US. ONE OF THE PRODUCERS.

SHE’S FROM ROME. YOU TELL US WHAT YOU THINK.

>> OKAY. >> GO AHEAD, NO PRESSURE, NO

PRESSURE. HE’S NOT NERVOUS AT ALL.

HE DOESN’T CARE ABOUT OUR OPINION.

>> IT’S DIVINE. YES, IT’S SO GOOD.

IT’S PERFECTLY CREAMY. NOT TOO INTENSE, NOT OVERLOADED

WITH FLAVOR. >> YEAH.

>> AND HE REALLY RESPECTS, YOU KNOW, HOW IT WOULD BE COOKED IN

A FAMILY.

>> THERE’S ALWAYS A SECRET. >> THERE’S ALWAYS A SECRET, YES.

WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD, ROMAN KNOW WHAT THEY LIKE, AND LIKE

WHAT THEY KNOW. BEYOND HIS MASTERFUL TAKE ON

CLASSICS, IT’S ALSO FULL OF INCREDIBLE INNOVATIONS.

FROM SWEET BREADS TO PLUM GELATO.

I WAS CURIOUS HOW THE CITY HAS TAKEN TO HIS INNOVATIONS.

>> THE DOWNSIDE OF ROME BEING SO STEEPED IN HISTORY IS THAT

SOMETIMES GREAT THINGS ARE RE RESISTED BECAUSE THEY’RE NEW,

AND NOT WHAT PEOPLE ARE USED TO. MISSING FOOD THIS GOOD IS A REAL

SHAME. I’M SORRY.

BUT HERE’S THE THING. THE ONE THING ROMANS CAN’T

RESIST IS A GOOD MEAL. AND I’M HOPEFUL THAT SOON HIS