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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:14,720 --> 00:00:16,600 I'm on the Peak of the world. 2 00:00:16,760 --> 00:00:20,440 Over there, to the north, are two of the most colossal empires on Earth. 3 00:00:27,720 --> 00:00:30,360 This is Hong Kong. I was here when I was a little girl 4 00:00:30,520 --> 00:00:32,080 and I haven't been back since. 5 00:00:32,240 --> 00:00:34,600 I'm about to start on one of the most exciting journeys 6 00:00:34,760 --> 00:00:40,400 you can make on land which is through China, Mongolia and Russia 7 00:00:40,560 --> 00:00:42,360 on the Trans-Siberian Express. 8 00:00:42,520 --> 00:00:44,280 We're going to end up in Moscow 9 00:00:44,440 --> 00:00:47,560 where I was last in the mid '60s when I was a model 10 00:00:47,720 --> 00:00:49,880 and it was in the grip of the Cold War. 11 00:00:50,040 --> 00:00:52,080 I can't wait to begin. Well, I have begun. 12 00:00:52,240 --> 00:00:53,960 This is the first part of the journey 13 00:00:54,120 --> 00:00:56,760 leaving the Peak and coming down towards the ferry 14 00:00:56,920 --> 00:00:59,840 to go across to the mainland to Kowloon. 15 00:01:06,920 --> 00:01:10,000 My 6,000 mile adventure starts in Hong Kong 16 00:01:10,160 --> 00:01:12,280 which I last saw when I was four. 17 00:01:12,440 --> 00:01:16,560 I'll cross mighty China where the new world rubs up against the old... 18 00:01:19,000 --> 00:01:21,560 .. and visit a wild stretch of the Great Wall. 19 00:01:21,720 --> 00:01:23,920 This is honestly like being in a dream. 20 00:01:24,080 --> 00:01:27,880 From there, it's on to romantic Mongolia, the land of Genghis Khan 21 00:01:28,040 --> 00:01:30,160 with its hardy nomads... 22 00:01:32,960 --> 00:01:36,360 .. and a mysterious shaman... a vast, empty land. 23 00:01:37,880 --> 00:01:41,680 - Then I visit another empire... - This is Russia. Speak Russian. 24 00:01:41,840 --> 00:01:46,000 .. crossing icy Siberia and glimpsing Russia's undimmed spirit 25 00:01:46,160 --> 00:01:47,240 and troubled soul. 26 00:01:47,400 --> 00:01:49,760 Two guys jump with Kalashnikovs in their hands. 27 00:01:49,920 --> 00:01:52,160 Like, da-da-da, da-da. 28 00:01:52,320 --> 00:01:54,440 I'll be meeting powerful oligarchs... 29 00:01:54,600 --> 00:01:57,920 Oh, gosh. This is so I get the gold flakes. 30 00:01:58,080 --> 00:01:59,520 .. stars of the future... 31 00:01:59,680 --> 00:02:00,680 Zazdarovje! 32 00:02:00,840 --> 00:02:03,880 .. and enjoy Russian hospitality to the full. 33 00:02:04,040 --> 00:02:06,000 See, that is a small vodka. 34 00:02:06,160 --> 00:02:08,920 Finally, I push on to Moscow, which I last visited 35 00:02:09,080 --> 00:02:11,800 in the darkness of the Cold War in 1966. 36 00:02:11,960 --> 00:02:13,480 - Is that a nuclear bomb? - Yes. 37 00:02:13,640 --> 00:02:18,200 My Trans-Siberian journey. The adventure of a lifetime. 38 00:02:29,720 --> 00:02:34,640 Hong Kong, once a British colony and protected by the British Army 39 00:02:34,800 --> 00:02:38,160 and my father, who was stationed here with his Gurkha regiment. 40 00:02:39,160 --> 00:02:42,200 Of course, Hong Kong is bound to have changed 41 00:02:42,360 --> 00:02:44,280 but I think, more than any city in the world, 42 00:02:44,440 --> 00:02:46,960 Hong Kong is the one that has altered. Its whole nature. 43 00:02:47,120 --> 00:02:49,000 So much land reclamation. 44 00:02:49,160 --> 00:02:52,120 You see that big scooping building like a great biscuit 45 00:02:52,280 --> 00:02:55,080 with the tower behind? All that has been stolen back from the sea. 46 00:02:55,240 --> 00:02:58,520 Where we're going now was water and it's now been grown out. 47 00:02:58,680 --> 00:03:00,720 It's thrilling to be back. 48 00:03:00,880 --> 00:03:04,520 It's terribly beautiful and I don't remember any of it. 49 00:03:04,680 --> 00:03:07,120 It's as if I've been in a dream. 50 00:03:14,600 --> 00:03:16,640 All I know is that we lived on Chatham Road. 51 00:03:16,800 --> 00:03:19,240 It used to be on the water's edge. 52 00:03:19,400 --> 00:03:21,400 It's the strangest thing in the world 53 00:03:21,560 --> 00:03:25,320 because I've got... I've got a picture of me as a little girl... 54 00:03:27,120 --> 00:03:30,440 .. in Hong Kong with my mother and my older sister. 55 00:03:30,600 --> 00:03:34,040 And we're standing, I think somewhere pretty near Chatham Road 56 00:03:34,200 --> 00:03:38,160 but here you can see the coastline so close to us. 57 00:03:38,800 --> 00:03:42,520 And now, we're in the middle of a city. 58 00:03:47,000 --> 00:03:52,400 It was a block of rather Victorian-y flats with little balconies 59 00:03:52,560 --> 00:03:55,040 and we kept guinea pigs called Sammy and Michael. 60 00:03:55,200 --> 00:03:59,040 And the guinea pigs whistled. Mummy taught them how to whistle. 61 00:03:59,200 --> 00:04:01,120 (WHISTLES) 62 00:04:01,280 --> 00:04:04,800 And sometimes sailors would come ashore on their shore leave, 63 00:04:04,960 --> 00:04:07,240 walking past and they'd hear the guinea pigs whistle 64 00:04:07,400 --> 00:04:11,200 and they'd whistle back thinking they were girls whistling to them. 65 00:04:25,920 --> 00:04:28,920 Next morning and a suburban Hong Kong metro train. 66 00:04:31,480 --> 00:04:33,480 Please mind the gap... 67 00:04:35,600 --> 00:04:39,600 Please mind the gap. It reminds me of Earl's Court. Rather lovely. 68 00:04:43,000 --> 00:04:46,880 Britain's 156-year rule of Hong Kong ended in 1997 69 00:04:47,040 --> 00:04:49,400 when we handed it back to China. 70 00:04:49,560 --> 00:04:53,680 They run it as a separate state so I'm clutching my passport and visa 71 00:04:53,840 --> 00:04:57,040 with Hong Kong dollars cashed in for Chinese yuan. 72 00:04:58,840 --> 00:05:01,040 One country, two systems. 73 00:05:03,240 --> 00:05:06,240 I'd be lying if I said there wasn't a certain nervous thrill 74 00:05:06,400 --> 00:05:09,680 to be crossing the border into Communist China. 75 00:05:10,800 --> 00:05:12,800 Thank you. 76 00:05:15,320 --> 00:05:19,320 So we're here and I want to go to Children's Palace. 77 00:05:19,480 --> 00:05:21,800 Now where the hell am I going? This is where I want. 78 00:05:21,960 --> 00:05:24,760 Shenzhen North Station. That's what I want. 79 00:05:24,920 --> 00:05:30,120 Select quantity. One. Amount due. Four. Four Yuan. 80 00:05:30,280 --> 00:05:33,280 It can't cost four. That's about three pence. 81 00:05:38,240 --> 00:05:41,200 - Processing. - (CASH TINKLES ON THE FLOOR) 82 00:05:41,360 --> 00:05:43,360 And money. 83 00:05:44,720 --> 00:05:46,600 So that was it. It cost 40p. 84 00:05:46,760 --> 00:05:50,880 And I've actually made money on that little transaction. Thrilling. 85 00:05:51,040 --> 00:05:56,040 Shenzhen Mainline Station is where I catch the Bullet Train to Beijing. 86 00:05:59,760 --> 00:06:01,760 It's huge. 87 00:06:03,960 --> 00:06:08,520 Now this could be a difficult because I can't read Chinese. 88 00:06:08,680 --> 00:06:12,600 And so I won't know when it says Beijing but I've got a clue 89 00:06:12,760 --> 00:06:15,200 because I'm looking for the G80. 90 00:06:15,920 --> 00:06:19,560 It's obviously saying it in English cos it realised I was on the train 91 00:06:19,720 --> 00:06:21,960 and it knew I'd be anxious about the right thing. 92 00:06:22,120 --> 00:06:24,960 So 11:28. Platform, I guess. A14. 93 00:06:29,320 --> 00:06:34,200 On this high speed, 10½-hour and 1,400-mile journey, 94 00:06:34,360 --> 00:06:37,840 I've got a business class ticket but it's a bit confusing. 95 00:06:38,840 --> 00:06:40,840 6A. 96 00:06:41,680 --> 00:06:44,360 That's it. That's my seat. 97 00:06:48,200 --> 00:06:50,960 Well, it's very odd cos this is business class 98 00:06:51,120 --> 00:06:54,920 and that's first class and business class is bigger and better 99 00:06:55,080 --> 00:06:57,360 than first class so first class... 100 00:06:57,520 --> 00:07:01,160 out here is just slightly down, you know. 101 00:07:02,560 --> 00:07:06,640 Enormous cool window. Lovely big armrests. 102 00:07:07,360 --> 00:07:10,160 - Take it away. - (CLICKS FINGERS) 103 00:07:33,000 --> 00:07:38,480 As we hurtle through China, I feel I've been projected into the future. 104 00:07:39,960 --> 00:07:43,400 When I was young, China was referred to as a sleeping giant. 105 00:07:43,560 --> 00:07:45,440 Well, it's now very much awake. 106 00:07:45,600 --> 00:07:47,640 1 in 5 people on Earth is Chinese 107 00:07:47,800 --> 00:07:51,000 and it is now officially the world's biggest economy. 108 00:07:51,160 --> 00:07:54,840 Flying past the window are cities I've never heard of 109 00:07:55,000 --> 00:07:57,840 that have populations as big as London. 110 00:08:00,160 --> 00:08:03,200 But my destination is what, in my geography books, 111 00:08:03,360 --> 00:08:05,360 was called Peking. 112 00:08:07,680 --> 00:08:10,520 We slip into Beijing under the cover of night 113 00:08:10,680 --> 00:08:13,040 into a city teeming with life. 114 00:08:13,200 --> 00:08:16,160 In fact, 21 million lives. 115 00:08:19,160 --> 00:08:21,880 Old Peking has mostly gone. You really have to look for it. 116 00:08:24,000 --> 00:08:28,240 New Beijing, still Communist but embracing consumerism with open arms, 117 00:08:28,400 --> 00:08:30,720 is a shoppers' paradise. 118 00:08:30,880 --> 00:08:34,360 China buys more smartphones than any other country 119 00:08:34,520 --> 00:08:37,880 and a third of the world's luxury brands are sold here. 120 00:08:38,040 --> 00:08:40,520 They also consume more red wine than anyone else, 121 00:08:40,680 --> 00:08:42,800 partly because red is a lucky colour 122 00:08:42,960 --> 00:08:45,240 so it's much more popular than white wine. 123 00:08:45,400 --> 00:08:49,240 Luxury British bands are 30% more expensive in Beijing than in London. 124 00:08:49,400 --> 00:08:52,400 Is this the Silver Wraith? This one here? 125 00:08:53,240 --> 00:08:57,760 Mr Wilson runs the most successful Rolls-Royce dealership in the world 126 00:08:57,920 --> 00:09:00,760 here in the capital of Communist China. 127 00:09:02,520 --> 00:09:06,040 He introduces me to one of his favourite clients, Madam Liu, 128 00:09:06,200 --> 00:09:10,040 to whom he recently sold his thousandth Rolls-Royce. 129 00:09:10,200 --> 00:09:12,560 You can buy them here for half a million quid. 130 00:09:12,720 --> 00:09:15,800 The average annual wage is just over £2,000. 131 00:09:17,120 --> 00:09:19,160 Wow. Look. We've got stars on the ceiling. 132 00:09:19,320 --> 00:09:21,760 The starry light at night. 133 00:09:21,920 --> 00:09:23,920 (SPEAKS MANDARIN) 134 00:09:25,080 --> 00:09:27,200 This is what she likes most. 135 00:09:27,360 --> 00:09:30,720 The glitter, the bling, the starry, starry night. 136 00:09:30,880 --> 00:09:34,120 - How do I get to close the door? - You can just press that button. 137 00:09:34,280 --> 00:09:36,400 # MADONNA: Material Girl 138 00:09:39,120 --> 00:09:42,080 # Cos we are living in a material world 139 00:09:42,240 --> 00:09:44,640 # And I am a material girl 140 00:09:44,800 --> 00:09:49,360 # You know that we are living in a material world 141 00:09:49,520 --> 00:09:51,840 # And I am a material girl # 142 00:09:52,480 --> 00:09:54,920 It's interesting. I never thought I'd see Beijing 143 00:09:55,080 --> 00:09:56,760 from the heart of a Rolls-Royce. 144 00:09:56,920 --> 00:10:00,160 - (LAUGHS) - It seems extraordinary. Who buys them? 145 00:10:00,320 --> 00:10:03,680 Where does the money come from? This is riches beyond belief. 146 00:10:03,840 --> 00:10:08,600 Definitely from the very rapid economic development in China. For sure. 147 00:10:08,760 --> 00:10:11,320 Darling, I think probably not with a mobile at the moment. 148 00:10:11,480 --> 00:10:13,360 (LAUGHS) 149 00:10:13,520 --> 00:10:17,280 Because now we have so many successful, rich people in China. 150 00:10:17,440 --> 00:10:21,000 And then they obviously enjoy finer things. 151 00:10:21,160 --> 00:10:23,720 Darling, don't... Not the phone. You really must just... 152 00:10:23,880 --> 00:10:26,040 Wilson, will you ask Madam Liu very kindly...? 153 00:10:30,760 --> 00:10:32,760 And what business are you in, Madam Liu? 154 00:10:32,920 --> 00:10:35,680 - (TRANSLATES TO MANDARIN) - (REPLIES IN MANDARIN) - Financial. 155 00:10:35,840 --> 00:10:39,480 - And also real estate. - Real estate. 156 00:10:40,280 --> 00:10:43,960 And Madam Liu, what is it that you love about the Rolls-Royce? 157 00:10:44,120 --> 00:10:46,120 (REPLIES IN MANDARIN) 158 00:10:48,280 --> 00:10:51,960 Because she believes Rolls-Royce is the pinnacle. 159 00:10:52,120 --> 00:10:55,400 And that it is a symbol of success and status. 160 00:10:55,560 --> 00:11:01,840 Madam Liu, do you ever feel any sense of resentment from poorer people 161 00:11:02,000 --> 00:11:04,320 when you drive in such a beautiful rich car? 162 00:11:04,480 --> 00:11:06,480 (REPLIES IN MANDARIN) 163 00:11:08,640 --> 00:11:12,600 The first impression is that all the people are just appreciating the car. 164 00:11:12,760 --> 00:11:15,040 Not her! 165 00:11:15,200 --> 00:11:19,160 Beijing, once famous for its millions of bicycles, 166 00:11:19,320 --> 00:11:21,920 is now cars bumper to bumper. 167 00:11:22,080 --> 00:11:24,240 - (SPEAKS IN MANDARIN) - I know it's them. 168 00:11:24,400 --> 00:11:26,400 (SPEAKS IN MANDARIN) 169 00:11:27,800 --> 00:11:31,880 - She said if we were doing it in her home town... - Yes? 170 00:11:32,040 --> 00:11:35,320 .. she could arrange blocking the roads. 171 00:11:35,480 --> 00:11:37,960 For us to do the filming. 172 00:11:38,120 --> 00:11:41,440 She has the connections with the authorities. 173 00:11:49,640 --> 00:11:52,880 Connections with authorities oil wheels the world over 174 00:11:53,040 --> 00:11:57,200 but absolute power here in China has always steered its own grim course 175 00:11:57,360 --> 00:11:59,560 as I'm about to discover. 176 00:12:04,080 --> 00:12:06,760 Beijing is a city where capitalism is now king 177 00:12:06,920 --> 00:12:10,720 and money is power although the Communists are in charge. 178 00:12:10,880 --> 00:12:14,280 It's very strange, however, to find a place that celebrates 179 00:12:14,440 --> 00:12:17,200 the old days of Chairman Mao. 180 00:12:20,680 --> 00:12:22,120 Now, I've travelled the world 181 00:12:22,280 --> 00:12:25,280 and eaten in every type of restaurant imaginable, 182 00:12:25,440 --> 00:12:27,320 but this one is by far the weirdest. 183 00:12:27,480 --> 00:12:29,560 (VOICES SPEAK MANDARIN) 184 00:12:33,720 --> 00:12:35,760 In the form of the most bizarre cabaret, 185 00:12:35,920 --> 00:12:38,760 large helpings of Mao's Cultural Revolution 186 00:12:38,920 --> 00:12:43,640 are served with wild enthusiasm along with pizza and cold beer 187 00:12:43,800 --> 00:12:45,560 if you wish. 188 00:12:58,760 --> 00:13:02,480 It's an odd atmosphere given that in Mao's Cultural Revolution in the '60s 189 00:13:02,640 --> 00:13:04,800 some 1.5 million people were killed 190 00:13:04,960 --> 00:13:08,880 and countless millions suffered banishment, imprisonment 191 00:13:09,040 --> 00:13:11,040 and torture. 192 00:13:17,760 --> 00:13:20,880 Tell me... Tell me... 193 00:13:21,040 --> 00:13:24,040 what did you enjoy most about this evening? 194 00:13:42,640 --> 00:13:46,040 But what are your thoughts now of Chairman Mao? 195 00:14:07,440 --> 00:14:10,840 If you're ever in Beijing and you fancy Chairman Mao and chips, 196 00:14:11,000 --> 00:14:13,680 then this is the restaurant for you. 197 00:14:23,544 --> 00:14:25,864 This country is a paradox. 198 00:14:27,544 --> 00:14:29,824 You can buy a Prada handbag but you're not allowed 199 00:14:29,984 --> 00:14:32,344 to access Google or YouTube. 200 00:14:34,784 --> 00:14:37,704 Nowhere is the power of the state more keenly felt 201 00:14:37,864 --> 00:14:39,384 than here in Tiananmen Square. 202 00:14:40,344 --> 00:14:42,624 For most of us, it'll be remembered forever 203 00:14:42,784 --> 00:14:46,344 for the brutal suppression of the 1989 student demonstrations 204 00:14:46,504 --> 00:14:50,064 which it's still illegal to talk about publicly in China. 205 00:14:52,104 --> 00:14:55,064 Strangely, and bitterly really, I think, 206 00:14:55,224 --> 00:15:00,984 erm... Tiananmen means 'Heaven peace gate'. 207 00:15:03,664 --> 00:15:05,944 Probably not for everybody. 208 00:15:08,304 --> 00:15:10,184 That's interesting showing Tibet. 209 00:15:10,344 --> 00:15:12,544 Look, do show that, Tibet. 210 00:15:14,864 --> 00:15:18,704 Since 1950, Tibet has been brutally occupied by Communist China. 211 00:15:19,704 --> 00:15:23,744 In 1959, the Dalai Lama fled, Tibet's culture was crushed, 212 00:15:23,904 --> 00:15:25,784 and hundreds of thousands were killed. 213 00:15:25,944 --> 00:15:30,824 Tibet is displayed here as merely a Himalayan province of China. 214 00:15:34,304 --> 00:15:37,064 This is the Chinese version of Tibet. 215 00:15:56,464 --> 00:15:59,984 Before Communism, there was the time of emperors. 216 00:16:01,264 --> 00:16:03,304 Oh! The size of it. 217 00:16:05,664 --> 00:16:08,184 The Forbidden City, built in the early 15th Century, 218 00:16:08,344 --> 00:16:11,384 was, for 500 years, the epicentre of power in China. 219 00:16:14,584 --> 00:16:17,304 Here the Emperor and his court lived and ruled. 220 00:16:17,464 --> 00:16:21,664 The Forbidden City is so-called because commoners were not allowed in 221 00:16:21,824 --> 00:16:25,224 and merely to look at the Emperor incurred the death penalty. 222 00:16:26,664 --> 00:16:29,584 It's vast. Five times bigger than Buckingham Palace. 223 00:16:29,744 --> 00:16:32,424 These amazing buildings have wonderful names 224 00:16:32,584 --> 00:16:36,024 like The Halls of Supreme Harmony and Enhanced Righteousness. 225 00:16:37,104 --> 00:16:40,104 Everywhere there are dragons, a symbol of The Emperor. 226 00:16:40,264 --> 00:16:42,784 It's got an Elvis quiff! 227 00:16:42,944 --> 00:16:46,584 It's now a huge, slightly impersonal museum 228 00:16:46,744 --> 00:16:49,384 attracting over nine million visitors a year. 229 00:16:49,544 --> 00:16:56,184 - Look at these people. - They are dressed just like the Qing emperors. 230 00:16:56,344 --> 00:16:59,664 - And they have consorts. - They look very beautiful. 231 00:16:59,824 --> 00:17:04,264 - Do you want to rent one? - I think it would look wrong on a European. 232 00:17:05,664 --> 00:17:07,664 You look enchanting. 233 00:17:08,784 --> 00:17:13,024 Historian Dong Meizhao is taking me through the grand courtyards of power 234 00:17:13,184 --> 00:17:15,184 to an area she knows I'm curious about - 235 00:17:15,344 --> 00:17:18,224 the place where the Emperor's concubines lived. 236 00:17:18,384 --> 00:17:21,304 When we say "concubine", we use all different words nowadays. 237 00:17:21,464 --> 00:17:24,064 Do you think they were mistresses or kept women? 238 00:17:24,224 --> 00:17:26,864 - How would you describe it? - No. No. No. They were legal. 239 00:17:27,024 --> 00:17:30,664 An emperor could have a wife that is empress 240 00:17:30,824 --> 00:17:37,264 but besides the wife, he could have many consorts 241 00:17:37,424 --> 00:17:39,904 and many, many, many concubines. 242 00:17:41,984 --> 00:17:44,464 The women's quarters are at the back of the palace 243 00:17:44,624 --> 00:17:46,864 and are smaller and more intimate. 244 00:17:47,024 --> 00:17:48,584 At the height of the Qing Dynasty, 245 00:17:48,744 --> 00:17:52,424 the Emperor had thousands of concubines guarded by his eunuchs. 246 00:17:52,584 --> 00:17:56,144 It was symbol of power but also ensured the production 247 00:17:56,304 --> 00:17:58,224 of male heirs to the throne. 248 00:17:58,384 --> 00:18:00,704 Albeit on a strict rota. 249 00:18:00,864 --> 00:18:06,104 You know, only the Empress was allowed to spend 250 00:18:06,264 --> 00:18:09,144 two full nights with the Emperor. 251 00:18:09,304 --> 00:18:14,224 The other ladies were not allowed to spend a whole night. 252 00:18:14,384 --> 00:18:16,384 - Only two hours. - Two hours? 253 00:18:16,544 --> 00:18:19,824 Yes. Two hours and then she must leave. 254 00:18:20,624 --> 00:18:23,384 - So make it snappy, make it good. - (LAUGHS) 255 00:18:23,544 --> 00:18:25,384 Wow. That's a bit of pressure. 256 00:18:25,544 --> 00:18:29,184 Oh, look at these little rooms. What are these little rooms? 257 00:18:29,344 --> 00:18:31,944 - Sitting rooms. - Sitting rooms? 258 00:18:32,744 --> 00:18:35,544 Eunuchs would present the Emperor with a tray on name cards 259 00:18:35,704 --> 00:18:37,744 for him to choose a concubine. 260 00:18:37,904 --> 00:18:40,984 - He was going to spend that night... - And she'd be the lucky one. 261 00:18:41,144 --> 00:18:43,024 - And she'd be waiting here. - Yes. 262 00:18:43,184 --> 00:18:44,344 Well! 263 00:18:47,344 --> 00:18:50,024 What do you think it was like being a woman in those days? 264 00:18:50,184 --> 00:18:53,384 What would it have been like to have been a concubine? 265 00:18:53,544 --> 00:18:56,064 It must have been a miserable life. 266 00:18:56,224 --> 00:19:00,864 Every day you pray that the Emperor might select you. 267 00:19:01,024 --> 00:19:03,784 It must be very lonely. 268 00:19:03,944 --> 00:19:07,064 It was a tough life for these girls, wasn't it? 269 00:19:08,264 --> 00:19:12,664 The last emperor left the Forbidden City only in 1924 270 00:19:12,824 --> 00:19:15,584 and in the small lanes, or Hutongs, that are huddled 271 00:19:15,744 --> 00:19:17,864 round the back of the Imperial Palace, 272 00:19:18,024 --> 00:19:23,184 I've been told there is an old lady who knew his favourite concubine. 273 00:19:23,344 --> 00:19:25,144 - Ni hao. - Ni hao. 274 00:19:26,984 --> 00:19:29,264 Hello. I'm Joanna. 275 00:19:30,944 --> 00:19:35,144 This was the mansion that the former concubine moved into in the 1930s. 276 00:19:35,304 --> 00:19:37,424 90-year-old Madam Ma now lives cheek by jowl 277 00:19:37,584 --> 00:19:40,744 with half a dozen other families in a complex of rooms 278 00:19:40,904 --> 00:19:43,784 - built into its courtyard. - (SPEAKS MANDARIN) 279 00:19:43,944 --> 00:19:47,264 - TRANSLATOR: Don't laugh at me. - No. Never. In here? 280 00:19:55,344 --> 00:19:56,504 40. 281 00:20:01,704 --> 00:20:03,544 And was this her room? Did she sleep here? 282 00:20:03,704 --> 00:20:07,704 - (TRANSLATES INTO MANDARIN) - In this bed. 283 00:20:07,864 --> 00:20:09,744 This room. 284 00:20:09,904 --> 00:20:15,624 Wen Xiu, at only 13, was the favourite of the last emperor Pu Yi. 285 00:20:15,784 --> 00:20:18,224 And in fact, he wanted her to be his empress 286 00:20:18,384 --> 00:20:21,744 but her relatively lowly background prevented that. 287 00:20:40,344 --> 00:20:42,144 Erm... how old was...? 288 00:20:49,224 --> 00:20:51,904 Why do you think she was a successful concubine 289 00:20:52,064 --> 00:20:54,024 if she wasn't very pretty? 290 00:20:56,584 --> 00:20:58,944 Was she very kind or very clever? 291 00:21:04,664 --> 00:21:07,424 What memories you have, Mrs Ma. 292 00:21:12,984 --> 00:21:16,184 As I leave Madam Ma and her brush with imperial history, 293 00:21:16,344 --> 00:21:18,664 it's also time to leave Beijing. 294 00:21:18,824 --> 00:21:22,504 I've already travelled 1,400 miles from Hong Kong 295 00:21:22,664 --> 00:21:27,904 but now my journey really begins on the Trans-Siberian Railway itself. 296 00:21:28,424 --> 00:21:31,504 I've got my passport cos I think we have to go through security 297 00:21:31,664 --> 00:21:33,864 and I've got my ticket. 298 00:21:34,024 --> 00:21:37,944 And I know it's the train to Moscow which I think is... 299 00:21:38,664 --> 00:21:40,664 .. Mua-skua. 300 00:21:56,024 --> 00:21:58,584 I'm not quite sure what these little lovely things are. 301 00:21:58,744 --> 00:22:01,744 They could be little bars of something... 302 00:22:02,424 --> 00:22:04,304 to eat or bars of soap. 303 00:22:04,464 --> 00:22:07,984 The packaging and presentation is so pretty. 304 00:22:08,144 --> 00:22:10,224 And some mystery items. 305 00:22:10,384 --> 00:22:12,944 Maybe that's a fig. Maybe that's a... 306 00:22:13,104 --> 00:22:14,384 .. apricot. 307 00:22:14,544 --> 00:22:16,184 Beautiful squashed things. 308 00:22:16,344 --> 00:22:20,184 You see, it could be mushrooms or sweet things. 309 00:22:20,344 --> 00:22:23,784 Slightly soft. It could be toffee. I want one of those. 310 00:22:27,144 --> 00:22:32,064 At last, I feel I'm getting on the train which is going to Moscow. 311 00:22:32,224 --> 00:22:35,864 - I mean in actual fact, I'm going to be jumping... (TRAIN HISSES) 312 00:22:36,024 --> 00:22:39,224 I'm going to be jumping on and off to film bits and pieces around. 313 00:22:39,384 --> 00:22:44,344 But this is the train that goes to Moscow from Beijing. 314 00:22:44,504 --> 00:22:48,504 All I've got to do now is to find zero, zero, 315 00:22:48,664 --> 00:22:52,064 which is the carriage, and my seat which is 29. 316 00:22:56,584 --> 00:22:58,584 That way? 317 00:23:00,784 --> 00:23:04,944 33, eight... 318 00:23:05,104 --> 00:23:06,984 29. 319 00:23:09,264 --> 00:23:12,624 A little bit snugger than I imagined but this'll be just fine. 320 00:23:24,384 --> 00:23:29,264 As we pull out of Beijing, it feels like my adventure is just beginning. 321 00:23:37,544 --> 00:23:40,584 On a train, you've really got time to relax... 322 00:23:42,064 --> 00:23:44,744 .. to watch the country flying by... 323 00:23:46,984 --> 00:23:51,344 .. and to mingle with, in this case, the rather jolly staff. 324 00:23:51,504 --> 00:23:52,664 You are very beautiful. 325 00:23:52,824 --> 00:23:55,344 Thank you. May I wear your hat for a photograph? 326 00:24:01,144 --> 00:24:05,824 This train will be travelling 4,880 miles from Beijing 327 00:24:05,984 --> 00:24:09,144 through Mongolia and Siberia, eventually to Moscow. 328 00:24:09,304 --> 00:24:13,664 But on this first leg, I'll only be on board for five hours 329 00:24:13,824 --> 00:24:18,304 before getting off to visit Datong, a mining city in Northern China. 330 00:24:22,664 --> 00:24:25,424 Communist China is full of surprises. 331 00:24:26,864 --> 00:24:30,264 There are over 240 million Buddhists living here today. 332 00:24:32,544 --> 00:24:35,344 In the 5th and 6th centuries, 51,000 Buddhas 333 00:24:35,504 --> 00:24:39,464 were carved into the side of Datong's nearby mountains. 334 00:24:42,144 --> 00:24:46,264 Jason, a knowledgeable local guide, has agreed to show me round. 335 00:24:47,704 --> 00:24:49,824 So now this is the biggest one. 336 00:24:49,984 --> 00:24:52,704 - Oh! - And the most preserved one. 337 00:24:52,864 --> 00:24:56,784 - Look at the size of it! - And we can see the nose... 338 00:24:56,944 --> 00:24:58,424 of this sculpture. 339 00:24:58,584 --> 00:25:01,424 The nose is about 1.7m high. 340 00:25:01,584 --> 00:25:03,264 Just like me. 341 00:25:03,424 --> 00:25:05,144 That's the nose. 342 00:25:05,304 --> 00:25:08,024 So it's a very giant Buddha. 343 00:25:08,184 --> 00:25:09,344 Oh! 344 00:25:10,224 --> 00:25:13,544 - So, the incense burning. - You can smell it, it's beautiful. 345 00:25:15,424 --> 00:25:18,584 - China has changed a lot in this last century. - Of course. 346 00:25:18,744 --> 00:25:22,624 - Hugely. - Especially for... young generations. 347 00:25:22,784 --> 00:25:26,584 We grew up with the Western culture 348 00:25:26,744 --> 00:25:28,944 or American culture so much. 349 00:25:29,104 --> 00:25:31,264 We just believe in money. 350 00:25:31,424 --> 00:25:34,864 Money is everything. Money is God. 351 00:25:35,024 --> 00:25:37,504 - Do you think that's sad? - Yes. 352 00:25:37,944 --> 00:25:43,184 Of course it's sad. So we don't have time to learn about art. 353 00:25:43,344 --> 00:25:46,504 So that makes us... erm... 354 00:25:46,664 --> 00:25:50,744 our heart is not very completed. 355 00:25:50,904 --> 00:25:52,544 I like poems. 356 00:25:52,704 --> 00:25:57,424 But if you write some poem on your Twitter 357 00:25:57,584 --> 00:25:59,384 or something like that... Facebook.. 358 00:25:59,544 --> 00:26:04,744 your friends will all say, "You're funny. You're so funny. 359 00:26:04,904 --> 00:26:07,184 You're so... er... crazy." 360 00:26:07,344 --> 00:26:09,904 Oh, Jason. I hate that. You're a poet, aren't you? 361 00:26:10,064 --> 00:26:11,944 Yeah, I'm a poet. Yeah. 362 00:26:12,104 --> 00:26:15,384 I love poetry. And what about girls and girlfriends? 363 00:26:15,544 --> 00:26:18,224 I don't have one, actually. 364 00:26:18,384 --> 00:26:22,744 Cos I don't have money. There is a saying - "no money, no honey". 365 00:26:22,904 --> 00:26:27,624 Oh, Jason. Would you ever think of marrying a non-Chinese girl? 366 00:26:28,344 --> 00:26:31,184 - Hmmm. - Or is that...? Or is there pressure on you to marry 367 00:26:31,344 --> 00:26:33,224 a Chinese girl? 368 00:26:33,944 --> 00:26:38,184 The pressure from my parents who will introduce some friend. 369 00:26:38,344 --> 00:26:40,224 - A suitable girl? - Yeah. 370 00:26:40,384 --> 00:26:42,304 So that's the custom. Your parents will say, 371 00:26:42,464 --> 00:26:44,824 - "We know a nice family." - It's natural. 372 00:26:44,984 --> 00:26:47,704 - So you have an arranged marriage. - Yeah. - Your parents arrange it. 373 00:26:47,864 --> 00:26:50,824 It seems suitable. You're not in love with her. 374 00:26:50,984 --> 00:26:54,104 You've only met her a few times. You have to get married. 375 00:26:54,264 --> 00:26:58,944 Don't do that, Jason. Write your poems, post them out. 376 00:26:59,104 --> 00:27:00,464 Some darling girl will read them 377 00:27:00,624 --> 00:27:04,424 and see in you a spiritual, cultural poet. 378 00:27:04,584 --> 00:27:07,744 - Thanks. - It'll happen. - Yeah. 379 00:27:09,504 --> 00:27:11,384 I worry for Jason's chances. 380 00:27:11,544 --> 00:27:16,184 At the last count, China had 33 million more men than women. 381 00:27:21,059 --> 00:27:23,219 (CHILDREN REPEAT PHRASES IN MANDARIN) 382 00:27:24,939 --> 00:27:28,179 If I hadn't been an actress, I'd have liked to have been a teacher. 383 00:27:28,979 --> 00:27:29,979 Welcome Joanna. 384 00:27:30,139 --> 00:27:32,899 I wonder how I'd have faired here in a school in Datong 385 00:27:33,059 --> 00:27:35,059 where the classes are huge. 386 00:27:35,219 --> 00:27:37,899 How's it going, Joanna? 387 00:27:38,059 --> 00:27:40,859 It's going very well, class. Thank you so much. 388 00:27:41,019 --> 00:27:44,139 Do you guys have any questions about Joanna? 389 00:27:45,699 --> 00:27:48,379 Are you...? Are you sexy? (JOANNA LAUGHS) 390 00:27:48,539 --> 00:27:51,059 - Are you sexy? Wow! - I hope so. I hope so. 391 00:27:51,219 --> 00:27:54,219 I come from England. I come from London. 392 00:27:55,939 --> 00:27:58,979 And I come from the home of Shakespeare. Have you heard of him? 393 00:27:59,139 --> 00:28:02,179 TEACHER: Shakespeare. You know Shakespeare? Yeah. 394 00:28:03,699 --> 00:28:06,099 Do you like Harry Potter? 395 00:28:06,259 --> 00:28:09,299 I love Harry Potter. Did you see Harry Potter? 396 00:28:09,459 --> 00:28:11,979 - Yeah. - Do you read Harry Potter? Or see the film? 397 00:28:12,139 --> 00:28:15,139 - See the film. - I have met Harry Potter. 398 00:28:15,299 --> 00:28:18,819 Daniel Radcliffe. Delightful. 399 00:28:18,979 --> 00:28:22,099 - That's nice. - I think he would love you. 400 00:28:22,259 --> 00:28:25,179 - (LAUGHS) Thank you. - He would love you. 401 00:28:25,339 --> 00:28:27,339 Very good. 402 00:28:27,819 --> 00:28:30,179 (CLAP IN UNISON TO POP SONG) 403 00:28:35,419 --> 00:28:38,099 OK. Tell me what is it? It is a... 404 00:28:38,259 --> 00:28:40,139 ALL: Pop star. 405 00:28:40,299 --> 00:28:43,899 Yes, and it is popular...? Where? 406 00:28:44,059 --> 00:28:46,219 - All... - over the world. 407 00:28:46,379 --> 00:28:49,259 - Yes, it is popular all over the... - world. 408 00:28:49,419 --> 00:28:51,419 - OK. Follow me. Asia. - Asia. 409 00:28:51,579 --> 00:28:52,939 - America. - America. 410 00:28:53,099 --> 00:28:54,419 - Africa. - Africa. 411 00:28:54,579 --> 00:28:57,059 - Europe. - Europe. - Yes. Europe. 412 00:28:57,219 --> 00:28:59,539 And where does Joanna come from? 413 00:28:59,699 --> 00:29:03,339 - Do you remember? - Europe. - Europe. 414 00:29:03,499 --> 00:29:05,739 - Which country? Which country? - England. 415 00:29:05,899 --> 00:29:07,659 Yes, England. 416 00:29:07,819 --> 00:29:10,699 And it is Eu... Europe. 417 00:29:10,859 --> 00:29:12,859 So any questions for Joanna? 418 00:29:13,019 --> 00:29:15,699 - Can you speak Chinese? - I can't. 419 00:29:15,859 --> 00:29:17,419 I'm gonna say this wrong. 420 00:29:17,579 --> 00:29:19,939 (SPEAKS MANDARIN HESITANTLY) 421 00:29:26,459 --> 00:29:28,339 (LAUGHTER) 422 00:29:32,659 --> 00:29:35,459 - Do you like singing? - Singing? 423 00:29:35,619 --> 00:29:38,659 Yes. I'm married to a musician. 424 00:29:38,819 --> 00:29:40,939 Can you sing for us? 425 00:29:41,099 --> 00:29:43,859 I strangely can't. No. 426 00:29:44,019 --> 00:29:46,019 I suddenly cannot sing for you. 427 00:29:46,179 --> 00:29:48,859 But I would love to hear you singing. 428 00:29:49,019 --> 00:29:51,659 - Do you want to sing for Joanna? - Can you sing me a song? 429 00:29:51,819 --> 00:29:55,499 - Any songs? - Is there a Chinese national anthem you could sing? 430 00:29:55,659 --> 00:29:57,539 Chinese national...? OK. 431 00:29:57,699 --> 00:30:01,139 (SPEAKS MANDARIN) One, two, three... here we go. 432 00:30:38,619 --> 00:30:41,139 I think that somewhere along the tops of these hills 433 00:30:41,299 --> 00:30:43,459 I'm going to see bits of the Great Wall. 434 00:30:43,619 --> 00:30:46,739 I think you can get glimpses and I'm staring like mad. 435 00:30:46,899 --> 00:30:50,899 And sometimes you see a rock formation that looks a bit... 436 00:30:51,059 --> 00:30:54,019 I know I'll recognise it when I see it. I don't know why. 437 00:30:54,179 --> 00:30:57,899 I've been thinking about the Great Wall all my life. 438 00:31:02,539 --> 00:31:05,299 Oh, my God! There is the Wall. 439 00:31:07,499 --> 00:31:10,299 One of the wonders of the world. The Great Wall. 440 00:31:10,459 --> 00:31:13,219 It is THE defining symbol of China. 441 00:31:13,379 --> 00:31:16,499 Popularly, but incorrectly, believed to be the only manmade structure 442 00:31:16,659 --> 00:31:19,299 visible from outer space. 443 00:31:19,459 --> 00:31:22,859 Visitors normally see the well-known stretch just outside Beijing 444 00:31:23,019 --> 00:31:26,019 but I've driven up into these wild mountains 445 00:31:26,179 --> 00:31:29,659 to meet an Englishman who lives here with his Chinese wife. 446 00:31:29,819 --> 00:31:32,219 One of the world's experts on the Great Wall 447 00:31:32,379 --> 00:31:35,019 is William Lindsay and he's invited me to stay 448 00:31:35,179 --> 00:31:37,419 to take me up to parts of the wall that tourists 449 00:31:37,579 --> 00:31:39,699 and visiting statesmen never reach. 450 00:31:39,859 --> 00:31:42,459 Well, let's have a drink, an appropriate one. 451 00:31:42,619 --> 00:31:44,859 What's it say? Chinggis? 452 00:31:45,019 --> 00:31:47,059 In the West, we've always said Genghis Khan 453 00:31:47,219 --> 00:31:50,059 but Chinggis Khan is more like the Mongolian translation. 454 00:31:50,219 --> 00:31:54,379 Without this man and his descendants, this wouldn't have been built. 455 00:31:55,539 --> 00:31:58,779 So Genghis Khan united tribes in Mongolia 456 00:31:58,939 --> 00:32:01,739 and started invading China in the early 1200s. 457 00:32:01,899 --> 00:32:06,779 And over three generations, he and his descendants 458 00:32:06,939 --> 00:32:11,179 took the whole of China out of the hands of the Han Chinese 459 00:32:11,339 --> 00:32:17,819 and established what we can say is a conquest dynasty to rule China. 460 00:32:17,979 --> 00:32:21,139 It didn't last forever and in the mid 1300s, 461 00:32:21,299 --> 00:32:24,899 the Chinese started to destabilise Mongol power and push them back. 462 00:32:25,059 --> 00:32:29,059 And then they knew that they would face the threat again 463 00:32:29,219 --> 00:32:33,339 so the construction of the Ming Wall began. 464 00:32:33,499 --> 00:32:35,699 So the wall was built to keep the Mongolians out? 465 00:32:35,859 --> 00:32:39,179 - To stop them invading again. - Again. - Yeah. 466 00:32:39,339 --> 00:32:43,579 But it wasn't in place when Genghis Khan and his descendants invaded. 467 00:32:43,739 --> 00:32:46,219 But even then, building a wall of these dimensions 468 00:32:46,379 --> 00:32:48,899 is much slower than raising a colossal army 469 00:32:49,059 --> 00:32:51,179 so and... and where it's built. 470 00:32:51,339 --> 00:32:55,099 I mean, William, look, one can hardly scramble up there 471 00:32:55,259 --> 00:32:57,059 let alone construct a huge wall 472 00:32:57,219 --> 00:33:00,739 - which, presumably, armies could march on. - Yeah. 473 00:33:00,899 --> 00:33:04,139 - Towers. I mean... - The top tower is... er... 474 00:33:06,299 --> 00:33:08,819 .. 3,400ft above sea level. 475 00:33:08,979 --> 00:33:11,259 - So it's higher than Snowdon. - Wow. 476 00:33:11,419 --> 00:33:13,779 - (LAUGHS) Yeah. - Wow. 477 00:33:14,859 --> 00:33:19,779 Er... this wall was recently surveyed to originally have extended 478 00:33:19,939 --> 00:33:22,579 - for 5,500 miles. - Oh! 479 00:33:22,739 --> 00:33:26,499 That's... That's more than London to New York. 480 00:33:26,659 --> 00:33:28,539 And back. 481 00:33:28,699 --> 00:33:31,979 - Yeah. - It hurts the brain, doesn't it? - Yeah. 482 00:33:32,139 --> 00:33:35,059 I'm burning to see it. Will I get up there tonight? 483 00:33:35,219 --> 00:33:38,019 I wouldn't... I don't think we should set off this evening. 484 00:33:38,179 --> 00:33:40,699 I think tomorrow morning. I think it's gonna be a fabulous dawn. 485 00:33:40,859 --> 00:33:45,059 - Dawn? - What time's dawn? - Dawn is about 5:45. 486 00:33:45,219 --> 00:33:51,539 - So if we set off from home at about 3:30. - Oh. 487 00:33:51,699 --> 00:33:55,699 And you will see the Wall in its true majesty. 488 00:33:55,859 --> 00:33:59,179 Oh, I'll drink to that. But probably that's got to be the last drink. 489 00:33:59,339 --> 00:34:01,339 I don't think we should top up after this. 490 00:34:01,499 --> 00:34:04,819 - I seem to have drunk more than you. - Cheers. 491 00:34:15,299 --> 00:34:18,659 Tonight is the Festival of the Moon here in China. 492 00:34:18,819 --> 00:34:22,779 And in my hand, I'm holding the moon. Well, it's a moon cake, actually. 493 00:34:22,939 --> 00:34:25,179 And I'm gonna take a bite of it. 494 00:34:25,339 --> 00:34:29,899 And I hope that tonight, when the moon has gone down, 495 00:34:30,059 --> 00:34:32,819 and I start my walk, by the time the sun has come up, 496 00:34:32,979 --> 00:34:35,739 I shall be on the Great Wall. 497 00:34:35,899 --> 00:34:38,259 But tonight... Nessun Dorma! 498 00:34:41,019 --> 00:34:43,019 (PUCCINI'S TURANDOT PLAYS) 499 00:34:48,939 --> 00:34:50,779 So it's just before four in the morning. 500 00:34:50,939 --> 00:34:53,139 The moon is still up but it's sinking down. 501 00:34:53,299 --> 00:34:55,259 I can hear cocks beginning to crow. 502 00:34:55,419 --> 00:34:59,099 We've got an hour's walk ahead of us. You can see it's quite cold. 503 00:34:59,259 --> 00:35:01,339 The path is wet with dew. 504 00:35:01,499 --> 00:35:04,699 So this is onwards and upwards to the Great Wall of China. 505 00:35:13,779 --> 00:35:17,779 - I think it would be best to keep left here, Joanna. - OK. 506 00:35:17,939 --> 00:35:21,979 Yeah, it's a bit... This is the steepest part 507 00:35:22,139 --> 00:35:25,379 and... er... once we're through here. 508 00:35:25,539 --> 00:35:28,019 Is this the steepest part? Good. 509 00:35:31,619 --> 00:35:33,739 The next corner, we may have a view. 510 00:35:33,899 --> 00:35:37,499 Oh, wonderful. The sky is beginning to become paler. 511 00:35:38,939 --> 00:35:41,499 ("TURANDOT" CHORUS SWELLS) 512 00:35:43,539 --> 00:35:46,139 Oh, my God! There is the wall. 513 00:35:56,139 --> 00:35:59,699 "TURANDOT" CHORUS CONTINUES 514 00:36:43,139 --> 00:36:45,139 This is extraordinary. 515 00:36:47,179 --> 00:36:49,939 Even though I've seen this hundreds of times, 516 00:36:50,099 --> 00:36:52,699 it's still magnificent. 517 00:36:52,859 --> 00:36:55,659 Worth getting up in the middle of the night to see. 518 00:36:55,819 --> 00:36:58,019 I would say so. 519 00:37:02,659 --> 00:37:05,699 As you walk through the bush, be careful with the branches. 520 00:37:05,859 --> 00:37:08,219 This is the wilderness wall. 521 00:37:10,139 --> 00:37:13,419 On here you. You can just imagine the amount of people it took 522 00:37:13,579 --> 00:37:15,739 to build all this. 523 00:37:15,899 --> 00:37:21,019 So we can say it's the result of roughly 276 years of labour. 524 00:37:22,139 --> 00:37:27,299 And, on average, a million military personnel were engaged per year 525 00:37:27,459 --> 00:37:31,979 - in its construction. - A million? It's just extraordinary. 526 00:37:32,979 --> 00:37:35,579 Gosh, this looks a bit ribbly, rubbly here. 527 00:37:35,739 --> 00:37:38,379 Yeah. We're OK, though. I'll lead the way. 528 00:37:38,539 --> 00:37:40,539 Is that best? OK. 529 00:37:42,339 --> 00:37:45,139 - How are you doing? - I'm doing good. 530 00:37:48,219 --> 00:37:50,099 A beautiful tower up ahead. 531 00:37:50,259 --> 00:37:52,499 It's fantastic. 532 00:37:52,659 --> 00:37:56,859 So these towers are the places where the guards were garrisoned. 533 00:37:57,419 --> 00:37:59,419 Gosh. Do we go in? 534 00:38:16,219 --> 00:38:18,739 Remember, before this wall was built, 535 00:38:18,899 --> 00:38:23,219 the Chinese gave the Mongols the hardest ever fight. 536 00:38:24,259 --> 00:38:26,379 The numbers that died are staggering. 537 00:38:26,539 --> 00:38:29,619 Exceeding the numbers that died in First World 538 00:38:29,779 --> 00:38:31,699 and Second World War combined. 539 00:38:31,859 --> 00:38:35,499 And some researchers have actually suggested that 540 00:38:35,659 --> 00:38:39,939 each Mongol warrior in the 1200s 541 00:38:40,099 --> 00:38:46,859 killed about 210 men before he himself was killed or he died. 542 00:38:47,019 --> 00:38:49,779 Where is Mongolia from here, William? 543 00:38:49,939 --> 00:38:52,859 Erm... due north. This direction. 544 00:38:53,939 --> 00:38:56,819 And as the crow flies, about 750 miles. 545 00:39:15,579 --> 00:39:17,699 We're about to enter a different world - 546 00:39:17,859 --> 00:39:20,379 the land of Genghis Khan. 547 00:39:31,459 --> 00:39:34,459 At the border, we have to have a wheel change. 548 00:39:34,619 --> 00:39:37,899 The railway gauge in Mongolia is wider than in China 549 00:39:38,059 --> 00:39:40,219 so each carriage has to be laboriously raised up 550 00:39:40,379 --> 00:39:42,659 for this massive operation. 551 00:39:45,579 --> 00:39:47,739 Isn't it funny? These things are called bogies. 552 00:39:47,899 --> 00:39:50,379 It strikes me that the English language which is so rich 553 00:39:50,539 --> 00:39:56,739 in so many things, has the same word for a nostril event, 554 00:39:56,899 --> 00:40:00,459 a golfing term and the wheels on a carriage. 555 00:40:01,699 --> 00:40:04,859 It couldn't be something else other than bogie? Anyway. 556 00:40:06,379 --> 00:40:08,899 I do rather love the bureaucracy of borders. 557 00:40:09,059 --> 00:40:11,459 So many forms to be filled in. 558 00:40:12,299 --> 00:40:16,019 (READS) Prohibited and restricted goods - 559 00:40:16,179 --> 00:40:18,739 narcotics, psychotropic substances... 560 00:40:21,939 --> 00:40:23,979 Dictionary, please. 561 00:40:24,139 --> 00:40:26,979 .. printed materials - books, movies, audio and video recordings, 562 00:40:27,139 --> 00:40:29,899 photo and other items of pornography. 563 00:40:30,499 --> 00:40:34,739 Wild fauna, flora, minerals and items of anatomy, 564 00:40:34,899 --> 00:40:39,339 archaeology, palaeontology, ethnography... 565 00:40:40,859 --> 00:40:42,859 .. or numismatics. 566 00:40:43,659 --> 00:40:46,059 That, my friends, means coins. 567 00:40:51,939 --> 00:40:56,339 From one currency, language, culture and empire to another. 568 00:41:00,459 --> 00:41:02,979 We were visited by endless people in uniform. 569 00:41:03,139 --> 00:41:05,339 First Chinese, then Mongolian. 570 00:41:05,499 --> 00:41:07,419 Inspecting documents and goods. 571 00:41:07,579 --> 00:41:10,859 And in the case of the Mongolians, all rather charmingly. 572 00:41:11,299 --> 00:41:13,779 - How are you? Hello. - Hello. 573 00:41:14,259 --> 00:41:16,139 - Deutsch? - English. 574 00:41:16,299 --> 00:41:17,299 - English? - Yeah. 575 00:41:17,459 --> 00:41:18,459 - Sorry. - OK. 576 00:41:22,379 --> 00:41:24,379 (TANNOY IN BACKGROUND) 577 00:41:27,619 --> 00:41:31,019 And at last, after a four-hour border stop, 578 00:41:31,179 --> 00:41:34,699 a time to dream about the next leg of my journey. 579 00:41:46,984 --> 00:41:50,784 Well, I've just woken up and I'm looking out at the Gobi Desert 580 00:41:50,944 --> 00:41:53,624 and I'm thundering through Mongolia. 581 00:41:54,304 --> 00:41:57,104 Slept well. Underneath my blankets it was cosy. 582 00:41:57,264 --> 00:41:59,744 Quite narrow but you just sleep, sleep, sleep. 583 00:41:59,904 --> 00:42:03,144 And I woke up thinking, "Somebody has switched the light on." 584 00:42:03,304 --> 00:42:06,584 And in fact, it was just the light of this extraordinary countryside 585 00:42:06,744 --> 00:42:09,064 blazing in. 586 00:42:09,224 --> 00:42:13,544 This is the Gobi Desert. It's as remote as Timbuktu. 587 00:42:14,864 --> 00:42:16,864 Remoter. 588 00:42:19,784 --> 00:42:22,184 I realise that I'm in a very different country. 589 00:42:22,344 --> 00:42:25,344 Sparsely populated and full of mysticism. 590 00:42:25,504 --> 00:42:29,424 When Genghis Khan ruled, it was a land of warriors and shamans. 591 00:42:30,744 --> 00:42:35,424 Shamanism is an ancient belief system that is returning to modern Mongolia. 592 00:42:35,584 --> 00:42:38,984 It's in at the deep end for this leg of the adventure. 593 00:42:39,144 --> 00:42:41,424 Straight off the train and into the woods 594 00:42:41,584 --> 00:42:44,744 to join a group of followers of a celebrated young shaman. 595 00:43:05,904 --> 00:43:08,624 The young shaman gets himself in a trance. 596 00:43:08,784 --> 00:43:12,224 enabling him, alarmingly, to lick flame. 597 00:43:38,584 --> 00:43:41,584 He's channelling an ancestor from the 13th Century 598 00:43:41,744 --> 00:43:44,424 who is obviously quite a character. 599 00:44:02,744 --> 00:44:05,144 For the disciples, no important decision is made 600 00:44:05,304 --> 00:44:07,704 without consulting the shaman. 601 00:44:10,304 --> 00:44:12,184 It seems I'm up next. 602 00:44:12,344 --> 00:44:14,224 I'm a bit nervous. 603 00:44:23,584 --> 00:44:25,584 No. 604 00:44:30,344 --> 00:44:32,624 Erm... nearly 10 years ago. 605 00:44:46,024 --> 00:44:47,624 Yes. She was. 606 00:45:22,744 --> 00:45:24,984 Well, it was interesting that he picked on my mother 607 00:45:25,144 --> 00:45:28,304 as the person who taught about nature and animals and plants. 608 00:45:28,464 --> 00:45:30,144 That's exactly what she did. 609 00:45:30,304 --> 00:45:33,504 Taught me to love and care for the natural worlds. 610 00:45:36,184 --> 00:45:38,664 Then getting the future badness spanked out of me 611 00:45:38,824 --> 00:45:40,064 which was quite good. 612 00:45:42,344 --> 00:45:45,704 The back didn't hurt but the front hurt a little bit on the leg. 613 00:45:46,744 --> 00:45:48,624 Thank you. 614 00:45:48,784 --> 00:45:52,664 Next time, it's nomads, giant statues, 615 00:45:52,824 --> 00:45:55,744 gold and a spot of bother at the border. 616 00:46:21,024 --> 00:46:23,424 Captions C SBS Australia 2018 51144

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