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The Western Ghats are an ancient mountain range,
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where rain forests burst with an explosion of life,
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Rivers nurture wild animals
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and provide water to billions of people.
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Age old human cultures live alongside rare
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and dangerous creatures.
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The rain drenched peaks of the Western Ghats hold the key
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to life in Southern India.
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These are India's monsoon mountains.
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(upbeat music)
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(tiger roars)
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(upbeat music)
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(dramatic music)
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The Western Ghats mountains stretch 1,600 kilometers,
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from Mumbai all the way to the Southern tip of India,
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running parallel to India's west coast.
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The spine of hills cover 6% of India's landmass,
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but provides a home to over 30% of its plant
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and animal species.
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Deadly snakes, rare primates and supreme predators all made
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in the Western Ghats.
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It's one of the most biodiverse places in the world.
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Humans have found a home here too.
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For thousands of years,
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man has lived side by side with nature
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and benefited from the fertile land.
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The secret to this explosion of life lies
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in the very mountains themselves.
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Huge peaks rise into the path of monsoon clouds,
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triggering rainfall and producing one
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of the wettest climates in India.
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Tropical rainforests thrive.
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This jungle canopy is home
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to one of India's most elusive animals.
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Hidden among the leafy branches is the rarest macaque
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in the world,
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the lion-tailed macaque.
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Their dark bodies and gray manes make them difficult
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to spot among the shadows.
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The thick fur of their manes help to keep out the worst
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of the rain.
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These primates are jungle specialists.
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They spend most of that time eating fruits.
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And there's always food close at home in the forest.
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These jackfruits are barely ripped,
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but that doesn't bother the hungry macaque.
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Its large canines are strong enough
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to tear through the fruit's tough, spiny skin.
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Figs are another jungle staple.
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And these are much more accessible to other creatures
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in the canopy too.
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The Malabar giant squirrel uses its long tail
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as a counterweight to help it balance while it feeds.
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Malabar squirrels are one of the largest squirrels
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in the world.
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They can grow to be half a meter long,
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and weigh up to three kilos.
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Like their neighbors the macaques,
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giant squirrels spend time grooming each other.
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It reinforces bonds and helps keep parasites at bay.
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(bright upbeat music)
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But the jungle is full of creatures
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with a far less friendly bites.
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The leech tests the air groping around
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to find a blood meal.
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It will latch onto any passing mammal,
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but it's no more than a nuisance to lion-tailed macaque.
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There are far deadlier predators in the jungle.
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(dramatic music)
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The king cobra, the largest venomous snake in the world.
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These giant reptiles can grow to be over five meters long.
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They are the true kings of the jungle.
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Venturing down to the forest floor is a risky business.
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The cobra's eyesight is so sharp.
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It can spot prey moving a hundred meters away.
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But luckily for the lion-tailed macaque,
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it's not on its menu.
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King cobras eat only other snakes.
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The hump-nosed pit viper could be in danger,
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but it's only 30 centimeters long,
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too small to be much of a meal.
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A three meter rat snake is more appealing.
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Locked onto its target,
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the cobra cracks its prey by smell,
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but not with its nostrils.
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It smells with its tongue.
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Chemical scent particles stick to its tongue
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and transfer to receptors on the roof of its mouth,
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known as the Jacobson's organ.
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The forks in its tongue work in stereo enabling the Cobra
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to pinpoint prey, but deadly accuracy.
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King cobra inject more venom
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in a single bite than any other snake,
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enough to kill an elephant.
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But snakes have a built-in resistance for the poison.
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It takes a lot more venom to kill a snake than a mammal.
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So a snaky can king cobra delivers a massive dose.
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One bite is all it takes.
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In a matter of minutes,
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the cobra's venom shuts down the rat snake's nervous system.
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Proteins in the poison start digesting the prey,
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before the cobras even finished swallowing.
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Danger is everywhere in the Indian jungle.
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Even the smallest animals can be deadly.
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A swarm of ants overwhelms a spider hundreds
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of times their size.
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A second spider intervenes, but this is no rescue mission.
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Spiders think nothing of making a meal of their own kind.
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The ants overpower it almost immediately.
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It's lucky to escape with its life.
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Staying out of sight is the best way to stay alive.
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A draco lizard is perfectly camouflaged to blend
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in the tree bark.
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Keeping still, he hope it disappears.
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But today, this draco wants to be noticed.
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He's looking for a mate.
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A bright flap of skin called the dewlap,
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advertise of his presence to females.
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But he's attracted the wrong kind of attention,
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a vine snake.
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Horizontal pupils give the vine snake,
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acute binocular vision.
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It can judge distance with pinpoint accuracy.
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This is one of the thinnest snakes in the world.
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Its body is just two centimeters wide,
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but it's two meters long.
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Its mouth stretches right to the back of its head,
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and open so wide that it can swallow prey at whole.
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The slender serpent moves slowly mimicking a creeper sway
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in the breeze, a perfect disguise in a world of plants.
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But the draco senses danger and plays its trump card,
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flexing its ribcage spreads out a membrane of skin
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to make a simple but effective wing.
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More than half of India's 238 species of amphibians live
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in the rainforest of the Western Ghats.
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Many are found nowhere else on earth.
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With primitive lungs, amphibians supplement their air intake
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by absorbing oxygen through their skin.
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The purple or pig-nosed frog was only identified
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by scientists in 2003.
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It spends 50 weeks of the year buried underground.
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The purple frog is unique in India.
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Its closest relatives live 3,000 kilometers away
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in the Seychelles.
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Pig-nosed frogs are living fossils and proof
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of the Western Ghats ancient origins.
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There were throwback
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to a time India and Africa were connected.
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150 million years ago, the supercontinent Gondwana,
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began to split apart,
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and the triangular landmass
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that is now modern India broke away.
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This Indian plate drifted northwards,
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over a volcanic hotspot,
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boiling magma pushed up into the Earth's crust
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and heated the land.
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The edge of the Indian plateau morphed and faulted
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into a crumpled line of mountains.
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By the time India bumped into mainland Asia
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and began pushing up the Himalayas,
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the Western Ghats were long established
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and already home to a wealth of wildlife.
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It's early summer, the height of the breeding season
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for king cobras.
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This male is looking for a mate,
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but the snake he's found is not a female,
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it's a rival male.
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This patch of forest isn't big enough for both of them,
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it's a serpentine standoff.
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They ground a warning at each other,
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(snake hissing)
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a low frequency hiss.
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(snake hissing)
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Air was sucked into their elongated lungs
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and squeezed out through the mouth
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as each snake constrict its body.
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Neither is willing to back down.
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The only option is to fight.
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This is a battle of strength, not weaponry.
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The huge snakes are immune to each other's venom.
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Each weighs up to nine kilograms,
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and uses all its might and muscle
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to try and grapple the other to the ground.
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(dramatic music)
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Finally, the strongest snake triumphs.
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The loser slinks off to find a new territory.
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Tensions are running high above the first floor too.
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Up in the canopy,
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a new (indistinct) assert his alpha male status.
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As soon as younger males start to show an interest
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in his harem of the females,
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the dominant male chases them out of the troop.
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He's taking no chances and won't tolerate any competition.
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(lively music)
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It's the end of summer,
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monsoon clouds have been building over the Arabian Sea,
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sucking up moisture from the ocean.
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Now they sweep towards land,
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pulled in by the low pressure void
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of India's hot, dry interior.
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(thunder rumbles)
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They slammed straight into the Western Ghats.
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The tallest peak is Anamudi, the elephant's head.
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It reaches 2,695 meters,
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and is the highest point in India outside the Himalayas.
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Rain-filled clouds are forced up the steep slopes
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where they cool and condense.
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On the Western Ghats exposed to peaks,
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Nilgiri tahr brave the relentless mist and rain,
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also known as cloud goats.
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They're well-adapted to wet weather.
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Water runs off their coarse, short hair like a rain coat,
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keeping their skin warm and dry.
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One of India's most ancient tribes also make their home
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in the high plateau of the Western Ghats.
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The Toda people are peaceful pastoralists,
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buffalo herders with a reverence for the natural world.
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The dome roofs of their houses mirror the rolling hills
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of their homeland.
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Low doorways are designed to keep out wild animals.
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(wood clonks)
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Milk is the main source of protein for the Toda people,
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and butter was traditionally used as currency.
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But buffalo were far more than a commodity,
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they are sacred.
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The Toda believed that the goddess Teikirshy,
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created buffalo first among animals,
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and then created the Toda man to care for them.
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The only time a buffalo is ever killed is when a man dies.
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It's believed that the buffalo's spirit,
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will keep the man company on his journey to the afterlife.
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The Toda believe that the next world is much like this one
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but it has a harder surface.
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Instead of wearing down the land,
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wandering souls wear down their own legs.
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When they have no limbs left, they are reborn
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as Toda people or buffalo.
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The Toda believe that people have lived
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in the Western Ghats since the birth of humankind.
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Today, there are fewer than 1,400 left,
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clinging to their traditional way of life.
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The Western Ghats are known locally as Sahyadris,
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the benevolent mountains.
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The peaks are a natural barrier
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to the monsoon weather system and intercept the rains.
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The Southern forests
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on the Western spokes release water vapor back into the air
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where it condenses and falls again as rain.
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This double deluge makes these tropical jungles,
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some of the wettest places in India.
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Some areas received 10 meters of rainfall every year.
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The rainforests team with life,
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but the benevolent mountains sustained life hundreds
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of kilometers away too.
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The coastal plains of Kerala,
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sandwiched between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats,
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are some of the richest land in India.
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Running from the hills, washes down to the coast,
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and the rivers and streams are ladened
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with fertile sediments.
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Fruit seeds sprout where they fall.
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Kerala's backwaters are elaborate of channels.
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Rivers replaced roads.
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00:22:42,100 --> 00:22:45,610
The west coast of India is where ancient man first set foot
265
00:22:45,610 --> 00:22:46,673
on the sub-continent,
266
00:22:48,970 --> 00:22:50,203
and here he stayed.
267
00:22:52,800 --> 00:22:54,090
Every non-African person
268
00:22:54,090 --> 00:22:55,790
in the world can trace their roots back
269
00:22:55,790 --> 00:22:57,870
to the first of humankind
270
00:22:57,870 --> 00:23:00,678
who settled in this land of plenty.
271
00:23:00,678 --> 00:23:03,380
(water roars)
272
00:23:03,380 --> 00:23:05,773
Today, the beaches are still crawling midlife.
273
00:23:11,460 --> 00:23:15,173
Armies of ghost crabs emerge at twilight to feed.
274
00:23:20,040 --> 00:23:22,190
The tastiest morsels are found on wet sand,
275
00:23:24,010 --> 00:23:26,630
but getting to them means running a gauntlet
276
00:23:26,630 --> 00:23:28,212
of breaking surf.
277
00:23:28,212 --> 00:23:30,879
(water roaring)
278
00:23:56,230 --> 00:23:59,453
A beetle is packed with protein and worth the effort,
279
00:24:00,940 --> 00:24:02,943
but crabs aren't the only hunters here.
280
00:24:05,390 --> 00:24:07,243
It pays to keep one eye on the sky.
281
00:24:10,360 --> 00:24:13,333
A young brahminy kite scours the shore for food.
282
00:24:14,540 --> 00:24:16,480
the crab shells are almost translucent
283
00:24:17,450 --> 00:24:19,770
so they can be hard to spot against the sand.
284
00:24:24,218 --> 00:24:26,718
(water roars)
285
00:24:33,170 --> 00:24:36,490
But to a kite with laser sharp eyesight,
286
00:24:36,490 --> 00:24:38,373
ghost crabs are easy targets.
287
00:24:52,750 --> 00:24:54,770
Thanks to the Western Ghats,
288
00:24:54,770 --> 00:24:56,510
the rainforests and coastal plains,
289
00:24:56,510 --> 00:24:58,960
get more than their fair share of rain each year.
290
00:25:01,410 --> 00:25:03,800
But on the eastern side of the mountains,
291
00:25:03,800 --> 00:25:05,263
it's a very different story.
292
00:25:07,090 --> 00:25:10,870
The Deccan plateau is a vast expensive basalt
293
00:25:10,870 --> 00:25:13,293
that comprises the main parts of Southern India.
294
00:25:14,980 --> 00:25:18,340
The Western Ghats mountain range blocks monsoon clouds
295
00:25:18,340 --> 00:25:21,063
and forces them to release rain on their western side.
296
00:25:23,360 --> 00:25:26,150
East of the mountains, the woodlands and plains
297
00:25:26,150 --> 00:25:28,963
at the plateau received just a 10th of this rainfall.
298
00:25:32,000 --> 00:25:36,323
Forests here are very different from the damp, dark jungles.
299
00:25:37,640 --> 00:25:39,470
The trees have broad leaves which soak up
300
00:25:39,470 --> 00:25:40,993
as much sunlight as possible,
301
00:25:42,060 --> 00:25:44,833
but it dropped in the dry season to conserve moisture.
302
00:25:46,720 --> 00:25:49,963
Chital deer browse on the nutrient-packed leaves,
303
00:25:51,090 --> 00:25:54,743
and where there are herbivores, there are hunters.
304
00:25:56,640 --> 00:26:01,423
Tigers, these big cats usually hunt at night,
305
00:26:02,840 --> 00:26:04,860
but with extra mouths to feed,
306
00:26:04,860 --> 00:26:07,710
this mother must try and seize every opportunity she can.
307
00:26:10,631 --> 00:26:13,381
(dramatic music)
308
00:26:24,460 --> 00:26:26,060
But she's not always successful,
309
00:26:29,610 --> 00:26:32,493
only one in 20 tiger hunt ends in a kill.
310
00:26:35,750 --> 00:26:37,210
There's a much smaller
311
00:26:37,210 --> 00:26:39,423
but more efficient predator at large here.
312
00:26:41,520 --> 00:26:44,923
Indian wild dogs or dhole are pack animals.
313
00:26:46,370 --> 00:26:50,200
They live in tight-knit groups led by an alpha pair
314
00:26:50,200 --> 00:26:52,943
and are organized in a strict social hierarchy.
315
00:26:53,960 --> 00:26:56,173
Every dog in the pack knows its place.
316
00:26:59,840 --> 00:27:03,633
Unlike tigers, the dogs don't use scout as a strategy,
317
00:27:08,270 --> 00:27:10,483
their tactic is teamwork.
318
00:27:16,150 --> 00:27:18,550
Dholes whistle to keep in contact during a hunt.
319
00:27:23,810 --> 00:27:26,600
Each individual has an important role to play.
320
00:27:26,600 --> 00:27:28,453
They work like a well-oiled machine.
321
00:27:35,870 --> 00:27:39,003
The chital's tail flashes white to warn others of danger,
322
00:27:42,610 --> 00:27:43,950
but it also helps the dogs
323
00:27:43,950 --> 00:27:47,250
to keep track of their (indistinct)
324
00:27:48,409 --> 00:27:51,159
(dramatic music)
325
00:27:59,819 --> 00:28:02,736
(animals growling)
326
00:28:07,370 --> 00:28:10,790
Working together, dhole can bring down prey 10 times,
327
00:28:10,790 --> 00:28:11,740
their own size
328
00:28:18,010 --> 00:28:20,510
The whole pack feed on the kill together,
329
00:28:20,510 --> 00:28:21,963
and it pays to be quickly.
330
00:28:23,470 --> 00:28:26,210
An adult can swallow four kilos of meat,
331
00:28:26,210 --> 00:28:29,370
almost a quarter of its own body weight in under an hour.
332
00:28:32,426 --> 00:28:35,343
(animals growling)
333
00:28:39,020 --> 00:28:41,263
Even the tigers get a meal at last.
334
00:28:43,030 --> 00:28:45,550
She may have failed to make her own kill
335
00:28:45,550 --> 00:28:48,680
but she's wily enough to take advantage of a rival success.
336
00:28:51,260 --> 00:28:54,140
Tigers are a universal symbol of the power of nature
337
00:28:55,162 --> 00:28:57,012
and they're revered throughout India.
338
00:28:59,070 --> 00:29:01,750
But few go to such lengths to express their admiration
339
00:29:01,750 --> 00:29:04,700
for tigers as the (indistinct) people of the Western Ghats.
340
00:29:09,560 --> 00:29:13,350
Every September, during the Dussehra festival,
341
00:29:13,350 --> 00:29:15,160
folk dancers from the (indistinct) tribe,
342
00:29:15,160 --> 00:29:17,590
let their inner animal run wild,
343
00:29:17,590 --> 00:29:20,493
and dance the Hulivesha, the tiger dance.
344
00:29:35,290 --> 00:29:38,513
The dancers moves mimic the big cats stealth and power.
345
00:29:54,520 --> 00:29:56,490
Lemons held in their mouths,
346
00:29:56,490 --> 00:29:58,883
symbolize the animal's deadly grip on its prey.
347
00:30:05,350 --> 00:30:07,180
These men have been dancing the hulivesha,
348
00:30:07,180 --> 00:30:09,180
since they were children,
349
00:30:09,180 --> 00:30:11,403
taught by their fathers and grandfathers.
350
00:30:16,500 --> 00:30:19,000
They grew up in a village in the Western Ghats,
351
00:30:19,000 --> 00:30:21,713
close to the forest and surrounded by nature.
352
00:30:23,660 --> 00:30:25,000
The tiger dance is a way for them
353
00:30:25,000 --> 00:30:27,533
to express their deep connection to wildlife.
354
00:30:38,430 --> 00:30:40,990
Traveling around villages to perform their dance,
355
00:30:40,990 --> 00:30:43,020
brings spectators from far away.
356
00:30:44,008 --> 00:30:46,591
(guitar music)
357
00:30:51,330 --> 00:30:54,080
it takes many hours to paint and decorate their bodies,
358
00:30:54,970 --> 00:30:57,123
but the patterns were last several days.
359
00:30:58,247 --> 00:31:00,830
(guitar music)
360
00:31:08,490 --> 00:31:10,733
The men (indistinct) about acrobatics,
361
00:31:14,600 --> 00:31:16,350
but the dance has a deeper meaning.
362
00:31:21,400 --> 00:31:24,133
But hulivesha is a celebration of the wild world,
363
00:31:24,980 --> 00:31:27,773
and the reminder of man's dependence on nature.
364
00:31:34,610 --> 00:31:38,310
The Western Ghats keep rain away from the deck and plateau,
365
00:31:38,310 --> 00:31:40,210
but the mountains still play a crucial role
366
00:31:40,210 --> 00:31:41,653
in supplying it with water.
367
00:31:43,290 --> 00:31:47,690
The mountains harvest rain channeling it down the hillsides
368
00:31:47,690 --> 00:31:49,753
and feeding it to streams and rivers.
369
00:31:51,700 --> 00:31:52,830
The uplift caused,
370
00:31:52,830 --> 00:31:55,830
when the Western Ghats mountains were formed means
371
00:31:55,830 --> 00:31:59,680
that all Southern India's major rivers flow west to east,
372
00:31:59,680 --> 00:32:01,080
across the deck and plateau.
373
00:32:04,730 --> 00:32:05,563
They include some
374
00:32:05,563 --> 00:32:07,833
of the country's most spectacular waterfalls,
375
00:32:08,701 --> 00:32:11,368
(water roaring)
376
00:32:16,350 --> 00:32:20,060
and they are a lifeline to the whole of Southern India.
377
00:32:20,060 --> 00:32:22,727
(water roaring)
378
00:32:24,280 --> 00:32:27,180
They supply water to nearly a quarter of a billion people.
379
00:32:34,430 --> 00:32:38,173
One of such river, the Calvary, is considered sacred.
380
00:32:40,230 --> 00:32:42,080
It's known as the Ganges of the south
381
00:32:43,140 --> 00:32:44,993
and worshiped all along its length.
382
00:32:47,290 --> 00:32:48,860
An entire temple has been built
383
00:32:48,860 --> 00:32:50,733
in the hills around the river source.
384
00:33:00,860 --> 00:33:03,290
People come from all over Southern India to bathe
385
00:33:03,290 --> 00:33:04,623
in this holy water.
386
00:33:08,040 --> 00:33:10,370
The same family priests has been presiding,
387
00:33:10,370 --> 00:33:12,370
over these rituals for nine generations.
388
00:33:24,120 --> 00:33:26,223
The river is a lifeline for animals too.
389
00:33:28,740 --> 00:33:31,373
It provides sanctuary for dozens of bird species.
390
00:33:34,700 --> 00:33:37,923
A male egret performs an elaborate courtship display.
391
00:33:44,500 --> 00:33:46,920
Special wispy feathers on his back are designed
392
00:33:46,920 --> 00:33:48,357
to catch a female's eye.
393
00:33:55,990 --> 00:33:56,823
It works.
394
00:34:28,937 --> 00:34:30,480
But the female changes her mind
395
00:34:30,480 --> 00:34:31,430
at the last minute.
396
00:34:36,820 --> 00:34:40,000
Undeterred, he starts his dance again
397
00:34:40,000 --> 00:34:42,463
in an attempt to win her favor and mate.
398
00:34:48,390 --> 00:34:50,793
Stokes and pelicans already have young.
399
00:34:53,540 --> 00:34:54,900
Hoards of hungry chicks,
400
00:34:54,900 --> 00:34:57,100
wait noisily for their hardworking parents
401
00:34:57,100 --> 00:34:58,193
to bring back food.
402
00:34:59,530 --> 00:35:00,830
Their legs aren't strong enough for them
403
00:35:00,830 --> 00:35:01,963
to stand up right yet,
404
00:35:04,230 --> 00:35:06,303
and they're vulnerable on the slippery rock.
405
00:35:08,530 --> 00:35:11,033
The Calvary also hide some river monsters.
406
00:35:18,090 --> 00:35:20,620
A pair of eyes peeping above the water,
407
00:35:20,620 --> 00:35:21,850
give one predator away.
408
00:35:30,920 --> 00:35:32,730
Mugger crocodiles can grow
409
00:35:32,730 --> 00:35:34,643
to be four and a half meters long.
410
00:35:38,320 --> 00:35:40,963
Moving through the shallow stirs up tiny fish.
411
00:35:44,680 --> 00:35:47,513
A heron takes advantage of the feeding opportunity,
412
00:35:51,470 --> 00:35:52,753
but it's taking a risk.
413
00:35:54,980 --> 00:35:56,880
A mugger can snatch a meal from the riverbank
414
00:35:56,880 --> 00:35:58,823
in the blink of an eyes.
415
00:36:06,410 --> 00:36:09,513
Fortunately, this crocodile doesn't seem hungry.
416
00:36:11,530 --> 00:36:13,003
Crocodiles are cold-blooded.
417
00:36:14,300 --> 00:36:17,300
They rely on the elements to maintain their body temperature
418
00:36:19,080 --> 00:36:21,443
and spend plenty of time basking in the sun.
419
00:36:23,580 --> 00:36:27,200
Under each bony scale is a cluster of blood vessels
420
00:36:27,200 --> 00:36:30,053
that absorb heat like tiny solar panels.
421
00:36:33,670 --> 00:36:37,100
Muggers can't sweat, but if they get too warm,
422
00:36:37,100 --> 00:36:39,000
they release heat through their mouth.
423
00:36:43,880 --> 00:36:47,463
These are social animals with a strict dominance hierarchy.
424
00:36:48,388 --> 00:36:51,555
(crocodiles growling)
425
00:36:52,590 --> 00:36:55,685
Males fight for supremacy over territory,
426
00:36:55,685 --> 00:36:57,607
and battles can sometimes be brutal.
427
00:36:59,345 --> 00:37:02,095
(dramatic music)
428
00:37:20,902 --> 00:37:22,650
(birds chipping)
429
00:37:22,650 --> 00:37:26,350
Two of India's giants thrive in the Western Ghats,
430
00:37:26,350 --> 00:37:29,350
thanks to the river systems that originate in the mountains.
431
00:37:31,390 --> 00:37:34,623
Gaur are the biggest species of wild cattle on the planet.
432
00:37:38,000 --> 00:37:40,790
Adults can stand over two meters at the shoulder
433
00:37:40,790 --> 00:37:43,013
and brandish horns that can be a meter long.
434
00:37:44,590 --> 00:37:46,980
They're one of the world's largest land animals,
435
00:37:46,980 --> 00:37:48,413
and can weigh over a ton.
436
00:37:51,840 --> 00:37:55,423
Only tigers are capable of preying on these giant cows,
437
00:37:56,760 --> 00:37:59,000
but gaur had been known to fight back
438
00:37:59,000 --> 00:38:01,033
and kill tigers in self-defense.
439
00:38:03,570 --> 00:38:05,360
The only animal here to outstrip gaur
440
00:38:05,360 --> 00:38:07,623
in size are elephants.
441
00:38:11,080 --> 00:38:13,780
The Western Ghats are home to the largest wild population
442
00:38:13,780 --> 00:38:15,380
of Asian elephants in the world.
443
00:38:19,490 --> 00:38:21,733
This female is the matriarch of her family.
444
00:38:23,560 --> 00:38:26,840
She's the oldest and leads a herd of her sisters,
445
00:38:26,840 --> 00:38:28,453
daughters and their young.
446
00:38:30,530 --> 00:38:32,843
Elephants live in very close-knit groups.
447
00:38:35,730 --> 00:38:38,680
This two months calf is taught everything he needs
448
00:38:38,680 --> 00:38:39,893
to know by his family.
449
00:38:45,060 --> 00:38:46,240
A mud bath is fun
450
00:38:47,110 --> 00:38:50,980
but it also helps protect an elephant skin from insect bites
451
00:38:50,980 --> 00:38:52,513
and acts like sunscreen.
452
00:38:54,810 --> 00:38:57,620
Adult elephants need to eat over 130 kilos
453
00:38:57,620 --> 00:38:59,033
of vegetation every day.
454
00:39:02,260 --> 00:39:05,843
They roam great distances in a never-ending search for food.
455
00:39:08,730 --> 00:39:10,770
The matriarchs knowledge of pathways,
456
00:39:10,770 --> 00:39:14,420
water sources and grazing opportunities has been passed down
457
00:39:14,420 --> 00:39:15,773
to her through generations.
458
00:39:19,280 --> 00:39:22,273
And in turn, she too passes it on.
459
00:39:24,740 --> 00:39:26,330
During the drier months,
460
00:39:26,330 --> 00:39:30,103
rivers recede and expose fresh green banks of grass.
461
00:39:34,060 --> 00:39:35,710
The shoots are full of nutrients,
462
00:39:38,611 --> 00:39:40,300
and elephants gather from far and wide
463
00:39:40,300 --> 00:39:41,550
to picnic on these lawns.
464
00:39:51,460 --> 00:39:53,560
A mouthful of mud may not seem advertising
465
00:39:54,660 --> 00:39:57,713
but it supplements an elephant's mineral intake.
466
00:40:05,020 --> 00:40:07,200
Elephants roam all over the Western Ghats
467
00:40:08,500 --> 00:40:11,240
but their wonderings bring them dangerously close
468
00:40:11,240 --> 00:40:12,683
to another inhabitant.
469
00:40:15,280 --> 00:40:18,350
Man benefits from the incredible productivity
470
00:40:18,350 --> 00:40:20,193
of the rain-soaked western slopes.
471
00:40:24,400 --> 00:40:28,100
Spices such as black pepper and cardamom are cultivated
472
00:40:28,100 --> 00:40:30,240
in huge quantities here,
473
00:40:30,240 --> 00:40:32,443
fueling India's historic spice trade.
474
00:40:34,270 --> 00:40:37,870
And the fertile hills provide the ideal climate
475
00:40:37,870 --> 00:40:42,273
for one particular type of camellia, tea.
476
00:40:43,690 --> 00:40:45,963
The slopes are a patchwork of plantations.
477
00:40:48,050 --> 00:40:51,280
A century ago, unbroken forest stretched
478
00:40:51,280 --> 00:40:53,430
for 150,000 square kilometers,
479
00:40:53,430 --> 00:40:54,883
across the Western Ghats.
480
00:40:58,570 --> 00:41:02,253
Today, scattered fragments make up less than 13,000.
481
00:41:05,760 --> 00:41:07,140
The region's high rainfall,
482
00:41:07,140 --> 00:41:09,393
means tea fields need never be irrigated.
483
00:41:13,120 --> 00:41:15,520
And the sloping landscape keeps their roots,
484
00:41:15,520 --> 00:41:16,770
from getting waterlogged.
485
00:41:20,510 --> 00:41:21,760
It's perfect tea country,
486
00:41:26,820 --> 00:41:31,510
but the state disrupt ancient animal migration routes,
487
00:41:31,510 --> 00:41:34,743
and elephants have no choice, but to cross the plantations.
488
00:41:38,340 --> 00:41:40,150
They don't eat the tea
489
00:41:40,150 --> 00:41:42,523
but sometimes they do cause damage to villages,
490
00:41:44,880 --> 00:41:47,330
as many as 400 people are killed by elephants
491
00:41:47,330 --> 00:41:48,463
in India every year.
492
00:41:54,430 --> 00:41:56,593
Gaur also visit tea plantations.
493
00:41:58,640 --> 00:42:02,650
In this organic tea field where no herbicides are used,
494
00:42:02,650 --> 00:42:04,703
gaur provide a very useful service.
495
00:42:06,940 --> 00:42:10,640
They graze on weeds that grow between the rows of tea,
496
00:42:10,640 --> 00:42:12,163
keeping the plantation clear.
497
00:42:15,890 --> 00:42:19,150
Gaur and elephant venture out of the forest,
498
00:42:19,150 --> 00:42:22,423
but lion-tailed macaques never cross cultivated areas.
499
00:42:28,110 --> 00:42:30,000
Small groups are isolated
500
00:42:30,000 --> 00:42:31,783
in the remaining patches of forest.
501
00:42:36,380 --> 00:42:38,500
This baby is the newest addition
502
00:42:38,500 --> 00:42:41,423
to a macaque family led by a dominant male.
503
00:42:44,760 --> 00:42:47,900
She will stay with the troop all her life fitting
504
00:42:47,900 --> 00:42:50,083
into the hierarchy as she gets older.
505
00:42:51,780 --> 00:42:53,250
But this young male,
506
00:42:53,250 --> 00:42:55,800
will eventually break away from his family
507
00:42:55,800 --> 00:42:57,163
and join a bachelor group.
508
00:42:58,850 --> 00:43:01,367
He's already showing signs of independence.
509
00:43:03,483 --> 00:43:06,316
(whimsical music)
510
00:43:18,790 --> 00:43:22,050
The little male investigates every nook and cranny looking
511
00:43:22,050 --> 00:43:22,950
for things to eat.
512
00:43:24,306 --> 00:43:27,139
(whimsical music)
513
00:43:40,170 --> 00:43:42,290
As well as fruit and seeds,
514
00:43:42,290 --> 00:43:45,210
insects, birds, eggs and lizards are all
515
00:43:45,210 --> 00:43:46,323
on the macaques menu.
516
00:43:47,860 --> 00:43:49,540
They'll even eat young squirrels
517
00:43:49,540 --> 00:43:51,293
if they find an unguarded nest.
518
00:43:53,470 --> 00:43:55,520
This older macaque has found a good meal.
519
00:43:56,920 --> 00:44:00,260
He quickly and quietly gathers as much food as possible,
520
00:44:00,260 --> 00:44:02,983
before more dominant troop member claims the supply.
521
00:44:10,000 --> 00:44:12,110
His extendable cheek pouches can hold
522
00:44:12,110 --> 00:44:13,260
as much as his stomach.
523
00:44:14,370 --> 00:44:17,473
Up in the canopy, he can finish his meal in peace,
524
00:44:19,010 --> 00:44:20,653
but his future is uncertain.
525
00:44:24,090 --> 00:44:26,340
The balance between man and animals,
526
00:44:26,340 --> 00:44:28,003
is becoming increasingly fragile.
527
00:44:31,350 --> 00:44:34,830
As India gallops forward into the 21st century
528
00:44:34,830 --> 00:44:38,280
and its population edges over 1.2 billion,
529
00:44:38,280 --> 00:44:40,763
it's getting harder to make space for wildlife.
530
00:44:44,060 --> 00:44:46,230
The crops and spices harvested on the slopes
531
00:44:46,230 --> 00:44:49,613
of the Western Ghats are exported all over the world.
532
00:44:54,300 --> 00:44:56,280
From Kerala's back quarters,
533
00:44:56,280 --> 00:44:58,330
they're sent out across the Indian ocean,
534
00:45:00,660 --> 00:45:02,840
the birthplace of the monsoon rains
535
00:45:02,840 --> 00:45:06,003
that plays such a vital role in the mountains biodiversity.
536
00:45:09,060 --> 00:45:11,653
The benevolent mountains have plenty to give,
537
00:45:14,560 --> 00:45:16,803
but man could be taking too much.
538
00:45:20,160 --> 00:45:23,860
Lion-tailed macaques only live here in the rainforest
539
00:45:23,860 --> 00:45:25,100
of the Western Ghats.
540
00:45:25,100 --> 00:45:27,950
They're one of the most endangered primates in the world.
541
00:45:31,550 --> 00:45:34,623
Less than 1% of their original habitat survives.
542
00:45:42,900 --> 00:45:44,750
It's only in the last century
543
00:45:44,750 --> 00:45:47,250
that the Western Ghats have been exploited by man.
544
00:45:49,500 --> 00:45:51,650
People have been living in harmony with nature here
545
00:45:51,650 --> 00:45:52,743
for 12,000 years.
546
00:45:56,020 --> 00:45:58,630
Surrounded by such biodiversity,
547
00:45:58,630 --> 00:46:01,103
they see themselves as part of the natural world.
548
00:46:09,660 --> 00:46:13,103
But sharing space with some forest animals can be risky.
549
00:46:20,370 --> 00:46:22,633
This family have had to evacuate their house.
550
00:46:25,570 --> 00:46:28,160
There's an unwanted guest making itself at home
551
00:46:28,160 --> 00:46:31,783
in their kitchen, a king cobra,
552
00:46:35,150 --> 00:46:36,300
but help is on the way.
553
00:46:39,250 --> 00:46:42,250
Gowri Shankar is a local snake handler.
554
00:46:42,250 --> 00:46:43,610
He works to keep king cobras
555
00:46:43,610 --> 00:46:45,883
and people safe from each other.
556
00:47:04,240 --> 00:47:06,010
In many parts of Asia,
557
00:47:06,010 --> 00:47:08,973
fear of deadly snakes means they're often killed on site.
558
00:47:19,650 --> 00:47:21,690
Gowri and his colleague, Prashanth,
559
00:47:21,690 --> 00:47:23,303
plan to take this one alive.
560
00:47:29,290 --> 00:47:31,270
Here in the Western Ghats,
561
00:47:31,270 --> 00:47:33,440
most people are remarkably tolerant
562
00:47:33,440 --> 00:47:35,693
of living alongside such a daunting reptile.
563
00:47:39,310 --> 00:47:42,303
Many believe king cobras control the thunder and rain,
564
00:47:45,180 --> 00:47:46,693
something they see plenty of.
565
00:47:48,920 --> 00:47:51,683
They are revered as goddesses of fertility,
566
00:47:53,090 --> 00:47:54,313
harming them is taboo.
567
00:47:57,730 --> 00:48:00,550
But extracting a four meter cobra from its hiding place,
568
00:48:00,550 --> 00:48:02,973
under the eaves is no easy task.
569
00:48:05,470 --> 00:48:08,120
Although they don't attack humans as prey,
570
00:48:08,120 --> 00:48:10,673
a king cobra can be a dangerous house guest.
571
00:48:16,230 --> 00:48:19,943
One bite packs enough poison to kill 20 men.
572
00:48:29,040 --> 00:48:32,253
It's out of the house, but that's only half the battle.
573
00:48:35,070 --> 00:48:37,223
Cobra's like to hide in dark corners,
574
00:48:39,900 --> 00:48:41,690
and Gowri hopes this one will slink
575
00:48:41,690 --> 00:48:43,803
into the sack he's prepared,
576
00:48:46,390 --> 00:48:48,193
but it's proving to be uncooperative.
577
00:48:51,599 --> 00:48:54,182
(snake hisses)
578
00:48:59,260 --> 00:49:01,330
The snake's reactions are lightning fast
579
00:49:03,020 --> 00:49:05,223
and it has a strike distance of two meters,
580
00:49:07,250 --> 00:49:08,803
Gowri is well within range.
581
00:49:27,360 --> 00:49:28,650
A change of tactic,
582
00:49:28,650 --> 00:49:31,123
finally gets the mighty snake under control.
583
00:49:32,587 --> 00:49:34,770
Gowri and Prashanth rescue an average
584
00:49:34,770 --> 00:49:38,433
of 22 king cobras from situations like this every year.
585
00:49:45,150 --> 00:49:48,730
The snake is taken a safe distance away from the village
586
00:49:48,730 --> 00:49:50,970
and released back to the forest.
587
00:50:08,230 --> 00:50:12,510
King cobras are an icon of the Western Ghats surviving
588
00:50:12,510 --> 00:50:14,690
in an ancient ecosystem
589
00:50:14,690 --> 00:50:16,723
and protected by the reverence of man.
590
00:50:21,500 --> 00:50:22,333
The Western Ghats is one
591
00:50:22,333 --> 00:50:25,333
of the world's most remarkable biodiversity hotspots,
592
00:50:28,350 --> 00:50:32,700
intercepting monsoon clouds and harvesting rainfall.
593
00:50:32,700 --> 00:50:34,580
The mountains have a profound effect
594
00:50:34,580 --> 00:50:36,230
on the climate of Southern India.
595
00:50:37,460 --> 00:50:39,550
They are home to wild creatures,
596
00:50:39,550 --> 00:50:42,030
from flying lizards and deadly snakes
597
00:50:42,030 --> 00:50:45,053
to endangered primates and formidable hunters.
598
00:50:46,630 --> 00:50:49,380
Humans have lived alongside animals here for millennia,
599
00:50:50,880 --> 00:50:52,880
but the 20th century has taken its toll
600
00:50:52,880 --> 00:50:54,423
on this ancient ecosystem.
601
00:50:56,710 --> 00:50:58,700
Much of its forest has been destroyed
602
00:50:58,700 --> 00:51:00,533
to make room for crop cultivation,
603
00:51:01,550 --> 00:51:04,453
and many species are now staring extinction in the face.
604
00:51:05,927 --> 00:51:09,330
But the spirit of the hulivesha tiger dance runs deep
605
00:51:09,330 --> 00:51:12,440
in the indigenous people of the Western Ghats,
606
00:51:12,440 --> 00:51:14,633
and they do make room for wild animals.
607
00:51:16,875 --> 00:51:18,660
There is plenty for everyone here
608
00:51:18,660 --> 00:51:21,720
as long as man continues to find his niche
609
00:51:21,720 --> 00:51:23,707
without destroying that of others.
610
00:51:30,199 --> 00:51:32,782
{\an8}(upbeat music)
47677
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