Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:02,585 --> 00:00:06,711
NARRATOR: join us on an
extraordinary journey back in time...
2
00:00:07,696 --> 00:00:12,871
...through a landscape forged by the
earth's forces and ancient civilisations...
3
00:00:14,136 --> 00:00:17,001
The best archaeological
Roman monuments
4
00:00:17,026 --> 00:00:21,640
are physically connected
with the historic town.
5
00:00:23,415 --> 00:00:28,361
...on a railway line that crosses
seven World Heritage sites...
6
00:00:28,386 --> 00:00:33,001
It became one of the centres of the ancient
world. It has everything going for it.
7
00:00:33,896 --> 00:00:37,001
...and forged its way
through mountains...
8
00:00:37,026 --> 00:00:40,390
This is a splendid
engineering work,
9
00:00:40,415 --> 00:00:43,031
the most famous in Sicily.
10
00:00:44,226 --> 00:00:49,390
...ending at the volcano
which dominates the whole island.
11
00:00:49,415 --> 00:00:52,351
Take a look now.
There's ash. It's coming out.
12
00:00:53,306 --> 00:00:58,201
We'll meet the people who live and
work along this very special train line.
13
00:00:59,736 --> 00:01:04,201
It's wonderful,
the landscape you can see,
14
00:01:04,226 --> 00:01:07,101
can admire on Etna.
15
00:01:11,415 --> 00:01:14,951
This is no ordinary
railway journey.
16
00:01:14,976 --> 00:01:20,921
This is one of the most scenic
railway journeys in the world -
17
00:01:20,946 --> 00:01:22,921
Sicily.
18
00:01:36,585 --> 00:01:41,231
Sicily,
an island almost frozen in time...
19
00:01:43,696 --> 00:01:49,630
...where the remains of ancient
civilisations can still be admired.
20
00:01:52,535 --> 00:01:56,671
We'll start our train journey
in southern Sicily...
21
00:01:59,585 --> 00:02:05,071
...a sun-soaked land tucked away
at the head of the lpari Valley.
22
00:02:08,976 --> 00:02:11,351
It's early morning...
23
00:02:12,696 --> 00:02:16,841
...and this 18th-century town
of Comiso is slowly waking up.
24
00:02:19,976 --> 00:02:22,841
TRAIN ANNOUNCEMENT IN ITALIAN
25
00:02:22,866 --> 00:02:27,481
To whisk us away
is the regional Minuetto.
26
00:02:27,506 --> 00:02:31,560
Powered by two V8 diesel engines,
it may look small
27
00:02:31,585 --> 00:02:34,380
but packs a combined
1500 horsepower.
28
00:02:37,296 --> 00:02:40,591
In charge of our train
is 36-year-old Marco,
29
00:02:40,616 --> 00:02:44,071
who's been working on this line
for 16 years.
30
00:02:45,146 --> 00:02:47,201
I am a train manager.
31
00:02:47,226 --> 00:02:52,201
I give information to customers
and control the tickets.
32
00:02:52,226 --> 00:02:54,231
This train is modern.
33
00:02:54,256 --> 00:02:56,911
Is 160 seats.
34
00:03:06,936 --> 00:03:11,911
This line is used by tourists
for three or four months,
35
00:03:11,936 --> 00:03:14,911
and also the commuter passenger.
36
00:03:18,376 --> 00:03:23,841
The train line is spectacular. ls
the best of Sicily, in my opinion.
37
00:03:23,866 --> 00:03:27,351
In the track you can see
the best of baroque in Sicily.
38
00:03:32,785 --> 00:03:34,991
Our journey will take us
from Comiso
39
00:03:35,016 --> 00:03:37,401
in the southeast corner of Sicily
40
00:03:37,426 --> 00:03:40,321
to the top of Mount Etna.
41
00:03:40,346 --> 00:03:42,941
To begin with,
we'll stop at a castle,
42
00:03:42,966 --> 00:03:46,151
then climb towards
the city of Ragusa.
43
00:03:46,176 --> 00:03:50,151
Our train then heads east
to Modica and the coast
44
00:03:50,176 --> 00:03:54,191
to the historic city of Siracusa.
45
00:03:54,216 --> 00:03:57,041
Heading north,
we skirt the Ionian Sea
46
00:03:57,066 --> 00:04:02,011
to this area's capital, Catania,
sitting under Mount Etna.
47
00:04:03,316 --> 00:04:06,501
The final leg of the journey
is the unique train
48
00:04:06,526 --> 00:04:08,570
that circles the volcano,
49
00:04:08,595 --> 00:04:12,530
and then a special trip
to its summit.
50
00:04:22,516 --> 00:04:28,700
The lpari Valley is a place rich with
Sicily's famous olives, carobs and grapes.
51
00:04:39,316 --> 00:04:42,891
Looking out over
this peaceful limestone landscape,
52
00:04:42,916 --> 00:04:46,011
this serene view
has mostly remained unchanged
53
00:04:46,036 --> 00:04:50,421
since the line was built
150 years ago.
54
00:04:51,836 --> 00:04:56,621
That's part of its fascination
for local history guide Simona.
55
00:04:58,196 --> 00:05:02,171
From 1861 to 1893,
56
00:05:02,196 --> 00:05:04,851
the very beginning
of unification of Italy,
57
00:05:04,876 --> 00:05:08,731
the landowners and
the noble families debate a lot
58
00:05:08,756 --> 00:05:13,371
about how to do the rail line
in this side of Sicily.
59
00:05:13,396 --> 00:05:15,520
They need a railway.
60
00:05:15,545 --> 00:05:18,811
They need to reach Siracusa's port
61
00:05:18,836 --> 00:05:22,211
in order to sell their product.
62
00:05:23,756 --> 00:05:28,881
It was along this eight-mile stretch from
Comiso to our first stop, Donnafugata,
63
00:05:28,906 --> 00:05:33,851
that the line's construction
took a rather unusual turn.
64
00:05:35,036 --> 00:05:41,341
A local royal baron fancied his own
bit of railway - and station.
65
00:05:43,086 --> 00:05:45,131
A touch of luxury for him,
66
00:05:45,156 --> 00:05:48,931
but a much more difficult route
for the engineers.
67
00:05:50,436 --> 00:05:53,570
The railway from Comiso to Ragusa
68
00:05:53,595 --> 00:05:56,931
had to pass on the top
of the canyon.
69
00:06:05,156 --> 00:06:07,981
Francesca, who grew up near here,
70
00:06:08,006 --> 00:06:13,211
knows much about this eccentric
baron and his very own stop.
71
00:06:14,316 --> 00:06:17,411
We are at Donnafugata
train station.
72
00:06:17,436 --> 00:06:23,491
It's a bit of a special kind of
station because it is not in a town
73
00:06:23,516 --> 00:06:26,261
but by a castle.
74
00:06:26,286 --> 00:06:31,731
It's a residence for
the Barons Arezzo di Donnafugata.
75
00:06:36,236 --> 00:06:40,291
It's not actually a castle.
It is a country mansion.
76
00:06:40,316 --> 00:06:45,731
It was built as you see it today in
the second half of the 19th century.
77
00:06:45,756 --> 00:06:51,851
The reason why he transformed it
into a neo-Gothic castle
78
00:06:51,876 --> 00:06:57,690
was actually because, at that time,
the Sicilian aristocracy
79
00:06:57,715 --> 00:07:01,570
looked at England as an example.
80
00:07:03,396 --> 00:07:06,801
The baron was intrigued
by Hampton Court
81
00:07:06,826 --> 00:07:12,770
and thought he'd emulate Henry VIII
in rural Sicily,
82
00:07:12,795 --> 00:07:17,570
including a replica of
the king's aristocratic pastime.
83
00:07:19,516 --> 00:07:23,900
We are heading to something
that brings us back to Britain,
84
00:07:23,925 --> 00:07:25,770
which is the maze.
85
00:07:27,465 --> 00:07:32,011
Designed exactly
as Hampton Court's Maze,
86
00:07:32,036 --> 00:07:35,770
but it's not made of hedges.
87
00:07:35,795 --> 00:07:39,371
It's made of stone.
88
00:07:39,396 --> 00:07:44,261
The objective of the maze
is to get to the centre.
89
00:07:47,396 --> 00:07:49,181
SHE CHUCKLES
90
00:07:49,845 --> 00:07:52,181
We got lost.
SHE CHUCKLES
91
00:07:53,646 --> 00:07:56,820
There we are. This is the centre.
92
00:07:56,845 --> 00:08:00,291
Now we have to find our way back.
93
00:08:02,566 --> 00:08:04,900
Oh! I made a mistake.
94
00:08:07,566 --> 00:08:09,541
SHE LAUGHS
95
00:08:14,465 --> 00:08:16,440
I made it.
96
00:08:28,156 --> 00:08:31,331
Leaving these royal pleasures
behind,
97
00:08:31,356 --> 00:08:37,001
we head east towards an area
of outstanding beauty.
98
00:08:41,236 --> 00:08:44,931
And driving us there is Amedeo.
99
00:09:20,436 --> 00:09:23,971
As our train heads south,
100
00:09:23,996 --> 00:09:28,381
it now enters the heart
of this hidden area of Sicily
101
00:09:28,406 --> 00:09:34,741
with not just one but seven cities
with World Heritage status.
102
00:09:51,716 --> 00:09:57,211
We're gliding through Sicily
on our historic railway voyage
103
00:09:57,236 --> 00:10:01,161
to the dizzying heights
of Mount Etna.
104
00:10:02,646 --> 00:10:06,651
From Comiso we travelled
eight miles to Donnafugata.
105
00:10:06,676 --> 00:10:09,850
Now we continue uphill
toward Ragusa,
106
00:10:09,875 --> 00:10:15,331
the first of seven UNESCO World
Heritage towns along our journey.
107
00:10:15,356 --> 00:10:17,291
Then on to Modica,
108
00:10:17,316 --> 00:10:21,901
and after 8O miles
we'll reach Siracusa on the coast.
109
00:10:26,716 --> 00:10:28,970
Only 45 minutes into our journey
110
00:10:28,995 --> 00:10:33,621
and our train is climbing
to over 1,600 feet...
111
00:10:36,516 --> 00:10:41,291
...a mountainous region
split by huge canyons
112
00:10:41,316 --> 00:10:45,821
till it arrives
in the ancient town of Ragusa.
113
00:10:51,636 --> 00:10:53,720
This is my stop. Bye-bye.
114
00:10:59,676 --> 00:11:04,541
Following an earthquake in 1693,
115
00:11:04,566 --> 00:11:10,081
the old town was completely rebuilt
in this dramatic baroque style.
116
00:11:12,316 --> 00:11:17,571
Towering over the old town is the
magnificent Church of St George,
117
00:11:17,596 --> 00:11:21,050
a treasure box made of stone.
118
00:11:22,125 --> 00:11:26,331
It's no wonder the city
is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
119
00:11:28,955 --> 00:11:31,901
However, one of its greatest
building achievements
120
00:11:31,926 --> 00:11:36,331
is not on top of the city's hills
but below them.
121
00:11:38,316 --> 00:11:43,211
We're about to encounter
a lesser known masterpiece,
122
00:11:43,236 --> 00:11:45,771
built 140 years ago.
123
00:11:53,916 --> 00:11:58,691
It's a true hidden gem
of Sicilian railway engineering.
124
00:11:59,846 --> 00:12:05,571
My favourite part of the train line is the
helicoidal track from Modica to Ragusa.
125
00:12:05,596 --> 00:12:09,970
It's important for us because it's
a special piece of engineering.
126
00:12:11,586 --> 00:12:16,930
For the next mile, our train is
travelling down inside a mountain.
127
00:12:24,456 --> 00:12:27,970
To cope with
the incredibly steep 700ft slope,
128
00:12:27,995 --> 00:12:30,251
the engineers
had to reduce the gradient
129
00:12:30,276 --> 00:12:35,970
by taking the railway in a complete
circle through the rock.
130
00:12:45,636 --> 00:12:49,411
Built when most locals
travelled by horse and cart,
131
00:12:49,436 --> 00:12:54,461
it's an extraordinary feat
of ingenuity and hard work.
132
00:12:56,516 --> 00:13:01,461
One that Emanuele has spent
the last 40 years writing about.
133
00:13:02,875 --> 00:13:08,131
The big challenge was
building these tunnels by hands.
134
00:13:08,156 --> 00:13:11,211
There were not sophisticated tools.
135
00:13:11,236 --> 00:13:16,170
They collected all the people
to break stones by hands.
136
00:13:19,095 --> 00:13:22,351
It was on the 18th ofjune 1893
137
00:13:22,376 --> 00:13:27,641
that this incredible spiral tunnel
section of the railway was finally opened.
138
00:13:29,666 --> 00:13:32,281
It's coming.
That's it. Here we are.
139
00:13:32,306 --> 00:13:35,100
It's a 668 train.
140
00:13:35,125 --> 00:13:38,771
The beginning
of the spiral track.
141
00:13:41,766 --> 00:13:48,120
It goes straightaway
a big circle of 300 as a radius...
142
00:13:51,516 --> 00:13:57,451
...and it goes out from
that black hole of the tunnel.
143
00:13:58,916 --> 00:14:01,561
Ah, here we are.
144
00:14:01,586 --> 00:14:03,561
That's it.
145
00:14:12,406 --> 00:14:14,691
Ciao!
146
00:14:18,836 --> 00:14:22,201
This is a splendid
engineering work,
147
00:14:22,226 --> 00:14:25,050
the most famous in Sicily
148
00:14:25,075 --> 00:14:27,050
and even in Italy.
149
00:14:28,716 --> 00:14:34,920
Sadly, the main engineer, Giuseppe
Mazzarella, never got to enjoy its success.
150
00:14:36,586 --> 00:14:40,531
He was worried about
the two curved tunnels meeting up.
151
00:14:43,156 --> 00:14:46,771
His 92-year-old
great-granddaughter, Concetta,
152
00:14:46,796 --> 00:14:50,941
recounts what happened
on the brink of his triumph.
153
00:15:15,736 --> 00:15:19,990
The tunnel was not without
its dangers, though.
154
00:15:20,015 --> 00:15:24,601
Emanuele was very close
to his father, a train driver,
155
00:15:24,626 --> 00:15:28,990
and in the clays of steam this was
a dangerous career to be in.
156
00:15:30,776 --> 00:15:32,791
In 1963,
157
00:15:32,816 --> 00:15:38,641
a big heavy train was in the middle
of this spiral tunnel,
158
00:15:38,666 --> 00:15:43,431
and the train stayed for hours
because they couldn't move.
159
00:15:43,456 --> 00:15:48,150
They were dying
because of carbon monoxide.
160
00:15:50,536 --> 00:15:56,461
Another train came down slowly
to help them out.
161
00:15:58,766 --> 00:16:03,030
When the train was out,
people were collapsing.
162
00:16:05,406 --> 00:16:10,791
The person who went bravely
with his steam engine
163
00:16:10,816 --> 00:16:13,431
was my father.
164
00:16:13,456 --> 00:16:15,841
That's it.
165
00:16:15,866 --> 00:16:18,921
He stayed in the hospital
for one week.
166
00:16:19,946 --> 00:16:22,711
I was really proud of it.
167
00:16:25,586 --> 00:16:28,351
That's why...
168
00:16:28,376 --> 00:16:31,431
you know, humbly talking,
169
00:16:31,456 --> 00:16:34,070
that's why these books.
170
00:16:40,946 --> 00:16:44,921
Emanuele, so proud
of his father's heroic rescue,
171
00:16:44,946 --> 00:16:47,791
is still moved by the memory.
172
00:16:49,816 --> 00:16:54,101
It's a tremendous piece of railway
here in Sicily.
173
00:16:57,295 --> 00:17:00,561
As we climb up through
these Sicilian mountains,
174
00:17:00,586 --> 00:17:05,270
the construction challenges
did not stop at Ragusa.
175
00:17:06,896 --> 00:17:09,351
Over the next seven miles,
176
00:17:09,376 --> 00:17:14,711
steep-sided ravines forced the
engineers to build six large bridges...
177
00:17:19,045 --> 00:17:22,511
...a staggering 43 small bridges...
178
00:17:30,295 --> 00:17:32,871
...and carve 13 tunnels.
179
00:17:44,175 --> 00:17:46,301
BOY SPEAKS IN ITALIAN
180
00:17:47,406 --> 00:17:51,591
As we escape
the final mile-long tunnel...
181
00:17:51,616 --> 00:17:54,150
TRAIN WHISTLE
182
00:17:58,816 --> 00:18:01,871
...we reach the town of Modica.
183
00:18:04,936 --> 00:18:10,761
Like Ragusa, Modica was also destroyed
by the devastating earthquake of 1693.
184
00:18:14,016 --> 00:18:16,400
It, too, rose up from the rubble,
185
00:18:16,425 --> 00:18:21,301
and now it's not just these buildings
that have been around for centuries.
186
00:18:26,175 --> 00:18:31,270
The Spanish left something else
behind 500 years ago.
187
00:18:34,896 --> 00:18:36,551
I'm Pierpaolo Ruta.
188
00:18:36,576 --> 00:18:39,661
I'm the sixth generation
of the Bonajuto family,
189
00:18:39,686 --> 00:18:42,351
and I live in Modica, Sicily.
190
00:18:42,376 --> 00:18:45,351
I am a chocolate maker.
191
00:18:49,536 --> 00:18:53,511
When Spanish people
arrived in South America
192
00:18:53,536 --> 00:18:56,221
and discovered this kind of product
193
00:18:56,246 --> 00:19:02,150
that was made
smashing cocoa seeds on stones,
194
00:19:02,175 --> 00:19:05,871
chocolate at that time
was very, very bitter,
195
00:19:05,896 --> 00:19:08,511
never mixed with sugar.
196
00:19:08,536 --> 00:19:14,221
And many Spanish researchers think
that Sicily was very important
197
00:19:14,246 --> 00:19:18,911
for the meeting
of sugar and cocoa seeds.
198
00:19:21,576 --> 00:19:27,351
And one person who mastered this
divine concoction was Francesco.
199
00:19:28,656 --> 00:19:31,511
Pierpaolo's great-great-grandfather
200
00:19:31,536 --> 00:19:35,681
created this chocolate factory
150 years ago.
201
00:19:37,326 --> 00:19:42,681
We are melting the cocoa mass
at about 45 degrees Celsius.
202
00:19:45,456 --> 00:19:49,711
As you can see,
the chocolate is still grainy
203
00:19:49,736 --> 00:19:53,400
and the sugar never melts
inside the bars.
204
00:19:54,295 --> 00:19:59,221
And that's why we have to shake
the chocolate into the moulds.
205
00:20:00,656 --> 00:20:03,631
RATTLING
This is the music of my childhood,
206
00:20:03,656 --> 00:20:06,681
and it is the smell
of my childhood.
207
00:20:06,706 --> 00:20:08,991
This is the smell
of my grandfather.
208
00:20:09,016 --> 00:20:13,351
It's very important for me
for keeping this kind of tradition.
209
00:20:17,016 --> 00:20:23,501
Today this tiny chocolate shop
attracts tourists from all over the world,
210
00:20:23,526 --> 00:20:28,911
selling a staggering
800,000 chocolate bars a year.
211
00:20:30,656 --> 00:20:34,221
That's 30 tonnes of deliciousness.
212
00:20:36,215 --> 00:20:40,190
Imagine that you were living
in the 16th century.
213
00:20:40,215 --> 00:20:47,031
Tasting the first chocolate was
very similar to this kind of chocolate.
214
00:20:57,415 --> 00:21:03,781
With our sweet tooth satisfied,
our train ventures east again...
215
00:21:12,165 --> 00:21:17,070
...on a route where you are never too young
to delight in a bit of train spotting.
216
00:21:18,856 --> 00:21:20,831
BOY:
217
00:21:27,526 --> 00:21:28,991
BOY:
218
00:21:31,376 --> 00:21:35,751
What better
than a father and son day trip?
219
00:21:35,776 --> 00:21:38,111
FATHER:
220
00:22:01,736 --> 00:22:04,111
8O miles from our start...
221
00:22:05,986 --> 00:22:09,270
...we've finally reached
the glorious coast...
222
00:22:13,016 --> 00:22:18,471
...as we slowly roll
into the station at Siracusa.
223
00:22:23,906 --> 00:22:28,631
It's a place
bathed in ancient history,
224
00:22:28,656 --> 00:22:33,270
the perfect stomping ground
for British archaeologist Michael,
225
00:22:33,295 --> 00:22:36,111
who's made it his second home.
226
00:22:37,726 --> 00:22:42,111
I've been researching and teaching
the history and culture of Siracusa
227
00:22:42,136 --> 00:22:44,751
for the last 15 years.
228
00:22:46,696 --> 00:22:49,881
Siracusa was one of the greatest
cities of the ancient world.
229
00:22:49,906 --> 00:22:52,751
It's a place replete with history,
with archaeology.
230
00:22:52,776 --> 00:22:57,991
It's an absolutely beautiful place to live
today because it has beautiful architecture.
231
00:22:58,016 --> 00:23:00,471
The food here is amazing,
the wine is superb.
232
00:23:00,496 --> 00:23:04,341
The sea is a delight to swim in.
It has everything going for it.
233
00:23:09,186 --> 00:23:15,031
Its strategic position on a trade
crossroads in the Mediterranean
234
00:23:15,056 --> 00:23:20,591
made Siracusa one of the most
desirable cities to conquer in Sicily.
235
00:23:23,256 --> 00:23:28,190
But it's Siracusa's half-mile-long
island, called Ortigia,
236
00:23:28,215 --> 00:23:32,161
that really holds a special place
in Michael's heart -
237
00:23:32,186 --> 00:23:35,161
and has an incredible secret.
238
00:23:36,295 --> 00:23:40,060
We're coming up
through the palaces of the city
239
00:23:40,085 --> 00:23:43,341
into the cathedral square
of Siracusa,
240
00:23:43,366 --> 00:23:48,471
one of the most beautiful squares
in all of Italy.
241
00:23:53,496 --> 00:23:55,471
The shape is so unusual.
242
00:23:55,496 --> 00:23:57,831
You see a long, straight line
on this side.
243
00:23:57,856 --> 00:24:03,551
Follows the route of an ancient
Greek road laid out 2,700 years ago.
244
00:24:05,085 --> 00:24:08,190
On this side you have
a beautiful, gentle curve,
245
00:24:08,215 --> 00:24:12,751
the buildings all beautifully
laid out, one against the other.
246
00:24:26,576 --> 00:24:31,621
From the facade, this appears to be a
beautiful example of a baroque church.
247
00:24:31,646 --> 00:24:35,510
But in fact
this building started life
248
00:24:35,535 --> 00:24:39,341
as an ancient Greek temple
in the fifth century BC
249
00:24:39,366 --> 00:24:42,060
dedicated to the goddess Athena.
250
00:24:44,926 --> 00:24:49,310
Around us would have stood some of the
greatest works of art of the ancient world.
251
00:24:49,335 --> 00:24:52,701
This was one of the richest,
most spectacular temples
252
00:24:52,726 --> 00:24:55,871
that the Greeks ever made
on the island of Sicily.
253
00:25:01,176 --> 00:25:06,190
In the sixth century AD, after 1,000
years of use as a Greek temple,
254
00:25:06,215 --> 00:25:10,751
the Christians took this building
and turned it into a church.
255
00:25:14,646 --> 00:25:16,831
But then in the ninth century AD,
256
00:25:16,856 --> 00:25:20,341
the island was seized by Muslims
coming from north Africa
257
00:25:20,366 --> 00:25:23,901
and was probably
turned into a mosque.
258
00:25:23,926 --> 00:25:27,871
When the Muslim kingdom was in turn
conquered by the Norman knights,
259
00:25:27,896 --> 00:25:30,541
this became once more a cathedral,
260
00:25:30,566 --> 00:25:33,751
dedicated to
the Roman Catholic church.
261
00:25:36,136 --> 00:25:41,471
To have three different religions
worship on one site over 3,000 years
262
00:25:41,496 --> 00:25:44,151
is extraordinary.
263
00:25:45,976 --> 00:25:51,310
Siracusa is a magnificent
ancient Greek city in Italy.
264
00:25:55,746 --> 00:26:01,390
Now our train heads towards
Sicily's biggest natural wonder,
265
00:26:01,415 --> 00:26:04,591
Mount Etna,
266
00:26:04,616 --> 00:26:08,951
a volcano that has destroyed
the island as well as built it.
267
00:26:10,926 --> 00:26:15,671
And we'll explore the city brave
enough to sit directly on its slopes.
268
00:26:16,746 --> 00:26:20,640
From here we have a special view.
269
00:26:20,665 --> 00:26:26,390
One of the best preserved
Roman monuments in Catania.
270
00:26:31,664 --> 00:26:36,559
We're on a serene and beautiful
journey through Sicily,
271
00:26:36,584 --> 00:26:40,790
heading to the highest,
most active volcano in Europe.
272
00:26:43,625 --> 00:26:47,040
After 140 miles of rocky ravines
273
00:26:47,065 --> 00:26:50,320
and the glorious baroque buildings
of the southeast,
274
00:26:50,345 --> 00:26:55,170
we're now exploring
the dark lava fields of the north.
275
00:26:55,985 --> 00:27:01,429
After Siracusa, we'll glide
along the shimmering Ionian coast,
276
00:27:01,454 --> 00:27:04,320
crossing the old salt lakes
of Augusta,
277
00:27:04,345 --> 00:27:08,759
and after 20 miles
we'll reach the city of Catania.
278
00:27:35,625 --> 00:27:41,879
Its unique microclimate makes it the
perfect growing ground for blood oranges,
279
00:27:41,904 --> 00:27:45,710
brought to this area
more than 200 years ago.
280
00:27:48,145 --> 00:27:50,120
TRAIN WHISTLE
281
00:28:02,904 --> 00:28:08,400
After travelling for over three
hours from Comiso to Catania,
282
00:28:08,425 --> 00:28:13,679
our ride on this little diesel-powered
Minuetto is about to come to an end.
283
00:28:19,904 --> 00:28:24,120
Waiting at the station is Eleonora,
professor of archaeology,
284
00:28:24,145 --> 00:28:28,450
passionate about her city,
and our charming guide for today.
285
00:28:28,475 --> 00:28:30,710
My name is Eleonora Pappalardo.
286
00:28:30,735 --> 00:28:32,910
I live in Catania,
287
00:28:32,935 --> 00:28:36,120
which is my city
since the time I was born.
288
00:28:36,145 --> 00:28:41,759
Catania is important for its
strategic position just near the sea
289
00:28:41,784 --> 00:28:45,710
and for the richness
of its territory.
290
00:28:48,985 --> 00:28:53,320
Catania's long history
can be traced back 3,000 years.
291
00:28:53,345 --> 00:28:57,400
It was such a desirable place
that it's been conquered by many,
292
00:28:57,425 --> 00:29:01,629
from the Greeks and the Romans
to the Spanish and the Arabs.
293
00:29:03,545 --> 00:29:06,985
Casting its formidable shadow
over the entire city
294
00:29:07,010 --> 00:29:12,185
is the magnificent and very active
Mount Etna.
295
00:29:13,930 --> 00:29:18,315
There's a strong link
between the long history of Catania
296
00:29:18,340 --> 00:29:21,185
and its volcano, Etna,
297
00:29:21,210 --> 00:29:25,515
which has, through the millennia,
forged the landscape
298
00:29:25,540 --> 00:29:29,475
and provided also
material for constructions.
299
00:29:35,280 --> 00:29:39,825
Which is why this place
is known as the Dark City.
300
00:29:39,850 --> 00:29:44,115
The Sicilians didn't just
build this city out of lava.
301
00:29:44,140 --> 00:29:49,874
They gave it some extra style by
accentuating the lava with white limestone.
302
00:29:50,899 --> 00:29:54,874
Here you can have
the idea of the Dark City
303
00:29:54,899 --> 00:30:00,465
because inside we are just surrounded
by buildings made of lava stone blocks.
304
00:30:00,490 --> 00:30:05,544
You can immerse yourself
in the colours and sounds
305
00:30:05,569 --> 00:30:07,674
typical of this city.
306
00:30:08,649 --> 00:30:10,905
HE SHOUTS IN ITALIAN
307
00:30:10,930 --> 00:30:13,624
MARKET HUBBUB
308
00:30:20,340 --> 00:30:22,515
These ancient arches
309
00:30:22,540 --> 00:30:27,754
have sheltered Sicily's largest
open-air fish market for 400 years.
310
00:30:27,779 --> 00:30:29,615
MARKET HUBBUB
311
00:30:41,210 --> 00:30:44,075
It's good. It's perfect.
312
00:30:44,100 --> 00:30:46,075
Grazie.
313
00:30:47,100 --> 00:30:49,515
It's a Sicilian sushi.
314
00:30:53,060 --> 00:30:55,645
For the men and women
living in Etna's shadow,
315
00:30:55,670 --> 00:30:58,744
the earth can often move.
316
00:31:04,019 --> 00:31:07,105
For us, it's also normal sometimes
317
00:31:07,130 --> 00:31:11,825
to suddenly feel the earth
trembling at our feet.
318
00:31:11,850 --> 00:31:15,825
It can happen that we get up
in the morning, we open the window
319
00:31:15,850 --> 00:31:20,744
and we find everything around us
black, covered by volcanic ashes.
320
00:31:20,769 --> 00:31:22,825
But for us it's quite normal.
321
00:31:22,850 --> 00:31:25,285
We clean everything
and we start our day.
322
00:31:28,180 --> 00:31:31,794
Mount Etna isn't the only
great presence from the past.
323
00:31:34,569 --> 00:31:39,874
Built over 2,000 years ago
and almost entirely of lava stones,
324
00:31:39,899 --> 00:31:46,465
this impressive Roman amphitheatre
could host 17,000 spectators.
325
00:31:49,490 --> 00:31:51,994
What we are seeing here
326
00:31:52,019 --> 00:31:56,235
is just one-tenth
of the original structure,
327
00:31:56,260 --> 00:31:59,385
the rest running underground,
328
00:31:59,410 --> 00:32:02,315
hidden by the modern city.
329
00:32:03,460 --> 00:32:08,635
Lucky for us, Eleonora knows how
best to view Catania's layers of history.
330
00:32:11,300 --> 00:32:14,075
Behind every door,
or special hotel,
331
00:32:14,100 --> 00:32:17,994
is another spectacular
archaeological wonder.
332
00:32:18,019 --> 00:32:21,235
From here we have a special view.
333
00:32:27,100 --> 00:32:31,955
In Catania, the best
archaeological Roman monuments
334
00:32:31,980 --> 00:32:36,994
are physically connected
with the historic town.
335
00:32:37,019 --> 00:32:41,715
Up to 1950,
all the area of the theatre
336
00:32:41,740 --> 00:32:45,994
was completely covered
by private houses.
337
00:32:52,769 --> 00:32:55,435
The theatre
over via Vittorio Emanuele
338
00:32:55,460 --> 00:33:01,025
is one of the best preserved
Roman monuments in Catania.
339
00:33:06,460 --> 00:33:11,195
It's clear Catania
has embraced its volcano.
340
00:33:11,220 --> 00:33:15,275
But its people took it
one step further.
341
00:33:15,300 --> 00:33:19,945
This towering 11,000ft giant
may loom over the city...
342
00:33:22,769 --> 00:33:25,835
...but to serve the people
who live on the volcano,
343
00:33:25,860 --> 00:33:29,555
they constructed
its very own railway,
344
00:33:29,580 --> 00:33:32,235
the Circumetnea.
345
00:33:33,130 --> 00:33:37,515
This special 70-mile train line
circles Etna
346
00:33:37,540 --> 00:33:42,585
and is a vital link for 15 towns
and villages to the capital.
347
00:33:42,610 --> 00:33:48,555
It's an essential lifeline to the people who
live and work under and on this great mountain.
348
00:33:50,330 --> 00:33:54,475
We're about to explore it
in all its glory.
349
00:34:03,080 --> 00:34:08,495
It's the last stage of our
spectacular journey through Sicily.
350
00:34:10,830 --> 00:34:16,134
We have travelled from the rural beauty
and dramatic baroque cities of the south...
351
00:34:18,750 --> 00:34:22,415
...to the extraordinary architecture
of Catania.
352
00:34:24,080 --> 00:34:26,165
We've left the main line
353
00:34:26,190 --> 00:34:31,635
and we'll be travelling on the very
special railway that circles Mount Etna,
354
00:34:31,660 --> 00:34:34,225
the Circumetnea.
355
00:34:39,450 --> 00:34:41,505
From Borgo station,
356
00:34:41,530 --> 00:34:45,225
the line travels
70 miles around the active volcano,
357
00:34:45,250 --> 00:34:51,314
climbing 3,000ft towards Randazzo
and Etna's wine region
358
00:34:51,339 --> 00:34:54,755
before reaching
the end of the line at Riposto.
359
00:34:59,339 --> 00:35:03,785
Getting ready at Borgo station
is the legendary Fiat train,
360
00:35:03,810 --> 00:35:05,785
built 50 years ago.
361
00:35:09,170 --> 00:35:15,415
Also still going strong after more
than three decades working on our train
362
00:35:15,440 --> 00:35:17,334
is Antonello.
363
00:35:32,339 --> 00:35:36,234
Interestingly, it was a Cornish
entrepreneur, Robert Trewhella,
364
00:35:36,259 --> 00:35:39,234
who built the line in 1889.
365
00:35:40,300 --> 00:35:45,625
It takes two hours
to almost circle the volcano,
366
00:35:45,650 --> 00:35:48,755
crossing from
lunar-like landscapes...
367
00:35:51,500 --> 00:35:56,395
...to the fertile farm regions
famous for their pistachios and wine.
368
00:36:15,300 --> 00:36:17,965
Created 500,000 years ago
369
00:36:17,990 --> 00:36:23,605
by the collision of the African
and the Eurasian tectonic plates,
370
00:36:23,630 --> 00:36:29,795
Mount Etna now covers an astonishing
area of nearly 750 square miles.
371
00:37:00,510 --> 00:37:04,715
Also on board the ADE
diesel-powered train
372
00:37:04,740 --> 00:37:09,885
are English teacher Francesca
and her husband Santino.
373
00:37:09,910 --> 00:37:14,355
It's wonderful,
the landscape you can see,
374
00:37:14,380 --> 00:37:17,405
can admire on Etna.
375
00:37:17,430 --> 00:37:23,605
All the eruptions destroy
some stretches of the railway.
376
00:37:25,019 --> 00:37:29,204
The Circumetnea still is threatened
by its fierce host
377
00:37:29,229 --> 00:37:31,845
and has been destroyed three times.
378
00:37:36,119 --> 00:37:40,635
The most recent eruption,
on the 17th of March 1981...
379
00:37:43,099 --> 00:37:47,845
...stopped just one mile
outside the town of Randazzo,
380
00:37:47,870 --> 00:37:53,124
interrupting the railway and
destroying houses on its course.
381
00:37:55,300 --> 00:37:57,275
TRAIN WHISTLE
382
00:38:01,300 --> 00:38:04,805
We've now come to the end
of our train journey.
383
00:38:10,830 --> 00:38:17,085
And at Randazzo, you can enjoy
Etna's very own vintage,
384
00:38:17,110 --> 00:38:19,715
a unique,
slightly smoky-tasting wine
385
00:38:19,740 --> 00:38:23,605
from one of the 140
local vineyards.
386
00:38:23,630 --> 00:38:25,525
WOMAN: Salute!
387
00:38:26,580 --> 00:38:30,525
After that,
there's only one thing left to do.
388
00:38:32,313 --> 00:38:34,289
Just a few miles from the railway,
389
00:38:34,314 --> 00:38:38,690
you can climb to the very top
of this majestic mountain.
390
00:38:44,155 --> 00:38:48,600
Nature photographer Giuseppe, who's
lived his entire life on Etna,
391
00:38:48,625 --> 00:38:54,490
has been exploring and documenting this
incredible volcano since he was four years old.
392
00:38:56,075 --> 00:38:58,409
Today is a good day to go up,
393
00:38:58,434 --> 00:39:02,600
also because there's an activity of
Mount Etna from the southeast crater.
394
00:39:02,625 --> 00:39:06,490
So there's an emission of ash.
395
00:39:06,515 --> 00:39:10,800
Explosion during the night, it's
possible to see the red glowing.
396
00:39:30,795 --> 00:39:34,370
Special 4x4 trucks
397
00:39:34,395 --> 00:39:38,800
take us on the final climb
to the summit,
398
00:39:38,825 --> 00:39:41,880
crossing three recent lava flows.
399
00:39:52,035 --> 00:39:54,690
So now we are on 2,900 metres,
400
00:39:54,715 --> 00:39:57,880
very close to the summit,
the crater's rumbling.
401
00:39:57,905 --> 00:39:59,770
This is the southeast crater.
402
00:39:59,795 --> 00:40:04,289
It is the youngest of all
the summit craters on Mount Etna.
403
00:40:07,905 --> 00:40:13,209
Despite the volcano emitting 5,000
tonnes of sulphur dioxide every day,
404
00:40:13,234 --> 00:40:17,159
there seems to be no shortage
of intrepid tourists.
405
00:40:21,454 --> 00:40:23,540
We have a lot of people today.
406
00:40:23,565 --> 00:40:29,070
In a normal period we have 400 people
that can turn around the summit craters.
407
00:40:30,015 --> 00:40:34,510
This is one of
the most famous places for people,
408
00:40:34,535 --> 00:40:36,820
and also for the cinema production.
409
00:40:36,845 --> 00:40:40,349
Take a look now.
There's ash. It's coming out.
410
00:40:40,374 --> 00:40:45,270
So now maybe there's a new face on the
southeast crater with the emission of ash.
411
00:40:45,295 --> 00:40:48,229
LOW RUMBLING
Still rumbling.
412
00:40:53,485 --> 00:40:59,790
To capture these spectacular
explosions takes time, patience...
413
00:41:01,845 --> 00:41:04,150
...and nerve.
414
00:41:07,975 --> 00:41:12,540
I have many favourite moments, but
there's one for sure really important,
415
00:41:12,565 --> 00:41:17,630
and it's on top of the southeast
crater, viewing the sunset.
416
00:41:17,655 --> 00:41:21,990
There was a huge pressure of gases
that melted the rocks.
417
00:41:23,454 --> 00:41:29,099
Never seen, never described before
and was really nice.
418
00:41:29,124 --> 00:41:33,460
We stayed about for two hours
there in silence,
419
00:41:33,485 --> 00:41:37,660
enjoying this marvellous show.
420
00:41:37,685 --> 00:41:41,179
And great footage, for sure.
421
00:41:43,124 --> 00:41:46,820
Documenting Etna
can be a risky business.
422
00:41:48,374 --> 00:41:52,299
During the 2017 eruptions,
423
00:41:52,324 --> 00:41:55,910
Giuseppe pushed his luck
to the limit.
424
00:41:58,254 --> 00:42:01,990
We were really close,
about one metre from the lava flow,
425
00:42:02,015 --> 00:42:04,910
with poisonous gases everywhere,
426
00:42:04,935 --> 00:42:08,990
very high temperature -
close to 1,000 degrees Celsius.
427
00:42:09,015 --> 00:42:12,870
So it was a big challenge for us
trying to save the equipment,
428
00:42:12,895 --> 00:42:15,510
to try to shoot new footage,
429
00:42:15,535 --> 00:42:17,940
and enjoy also.
430
00:42:17,965 --> 00:42:20,580
Very big reward, for sure.
431
00:42:23,574 --> 00:42:26,020
It's this great passion
for the volcano
432
00:42:26,045 --> 00:42:28,229
and the breath-taking pictures
433
00:42:28,254 --> 00:42:32,740
that keep Giuseppe coming back
time and time again.
434
00:42:39,655 --> 00:42:43,830
Our train journey has travelled
around the southeast corner of Sicily,
435
00:42:43,855 --> 00:42:47,710
crossing challenging valleys,
436
00:42:47,735 --> 00:42:52,910
a route that highlights
the rich history of the island
437
00:42:52,935 --> 00:42:57,070
in some of
the most breath-taking landscapes.
438
00:42:59,935 --> 00:43:03,020
The trip from Comiso to Mount Etna
439
00:43:03,045 --> 00:43:06,580
is a beautifuljourney,
created by man...
440
00:43:06,605 --> 00:43:09,099
and nature.
441
00:43:32,965 --> 00:43:35,549
Subtitles by Red Bee Media
37536
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.