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Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:02,585 --> 00:00:06,711 NARRATOR: join us on an extraordinary journey back in time... 2 00:00:07,696 --> 00:00:12,871 ...through a landscape forged by the earth's forces and ancient civilisations... 3 00:00:14,136 --> 00:00:17,001 The best archaeological Roman monuments 4 00:00:17,026 --> 00:00:21,640 are physically connected with the historic town. 5 00:00:23,415 --> 00:00:28,361 ...on a railway line that crosses seven World Heritage sites... 6 00:00:28,386 --> 00:00:33,001 It became one of the centres of the ancient world. It has everything going for it. 7 00:00:33,896 --> 00:00:37,001 ...and forged its way through mountains... 8 00:00:37,026 --> 00:00:40,390 This is a splendid engineering work, 9 00:00:40,415 --> 00:00:43,031 the most famous in Sicily. 10 00:00:44,226 --> 00:00:49,390 ...ending at the volcano which dominates the whole island. 11 00:00:49,415 --> 00:00:52,351 Take a look now. There's ash. It's coming out. 12 00:00:53,306 --> 00:00:58,201 We'll meet the people who live and work along this very special train line. 13 00:00:59,736 --> 00:01:04,201 It's wonderful, the landscape you can see, 14 00:01:04,226 --> 00:01:07,101 can admire on Etna. 15 00:01:11,415 --> 00:01:14,951 This is no ordinary railway journey. 16 00:01:14,976 --> 00:01:20,921 This is one of the most scenic railway journeys in the world - 17 00:01:20,946 --> 00:01:22,921 Sicily. 18 00:01:36,585 --> 00:01:41,231 Sicily, an island almost frozen in time... 19 00:01:43,696 --> 00:01:49,630 ...where the remains of ancient civilisations can still be admired. 20 00:01:52,535 --> 00:01:56,671 We'll start our train journey in southern Sicily... 21 00:01:59,585 --> 00:02:05,071 ...a sun-soaked land tucked away at the head of the lpari Valley. 22 00:02:08,976 --> 00:02:11,351 It's early morning... 23 00:02:12,696 --> 00:02:16,841 ...and this 18th-century town of Comiso is slowly waking up. 24 00:02:19,976 --> 00:02:22,841 TRAIN ANNOUNCEMENT IN ITALIAN 25 00:02:22,866 --> 00:02:27,481 To whisk us away is the regional Minuetto. 26 00:02:27,506 --> 00:02:31,560 Powered by two V8 diesel engines, it may look small 27 00:02:31,585 --> 00:02:34,380 but packs a combined 1500 horsepower. 28 00:02:37,296 --> 00:02:40,591 In charge of our train is 36-year-old Marco, 29 00:02:40,616 --> 00:02:44,071 who's been working on this line for 16 years. 30 00:02:45,146 --> 00:02:47,201 I am a train manager. 31 00:02:47,226 --> 00:02:52,201 I give information to customers and control the tickets. 32 00:02:52,226 --> 00:02:54,231 This train is modern. 33 00:02:54,256 --> 00:02:56,911 Is 160 seats. 34 00:03:06,936 --> 00:03:11,911 This line is used by tourists for three or four months, 35 00:03:11,936 --> 00:03:14,911 and also the commuter passenger. 36 00:03:18,376 --> 00:03:23,841 The train line is spectacular. ls the best of Sicily, in my opinion. 37 00:03:23,866 --> 00:03:27,351 In the track you can see the best of baroque in Sicily. 38 00:03:32,785 --> 00:03:34,991 Our journey will take us from Comiso 39 00:03:35,016 --> 00:03:37,401 in the southeast corner of Sicily 40 00:03:37,426 --> 00:03:40,321 to the top of Mount Etna. 41 00:03:40,346 --> 00:03:42,941 To begin with, we'll stop at a castle, 42 00:03:42,966 --> 00:03:46,151 then climb towards the city of Ragusa. 43 00:03:46,176 --> 00:03:50,151 Our train then heads east to Modica and the coast 44 00:03:50,176 --> 00:03:54,191 to the historic city of Siracusa. 45 00:03:54,216 --> 00:03:57,041 Heading north, we skirt the Ionian Sea 46 00:03:57,066 --> 00:04:02,011 to this area's capital, Catania, sitting under Mount Etna. 47 00:04:03,316 --> 00:04:06,501 The final leg of the journey is the unique train 48 00:04:06,526 --> 00:04:08,570 that circles the volcano, 49 00:04:08,595 --> 00:04:12,530 and then a special trip to its summit. 50 00:04:22,516 --> 00:04:28,700 The lpari Valley is a place rich with Sicily's famous olives, carobs and grapes. 51 00:04:39,316 --> 00:04:42,891 Looking out over this peaceful limestone landscape, 52 00:04:42,916 --> 00:04:46,011 this serene view has mostly remained unchanged 53 00:04:46,036 --> 00:04:50,421 since the line was built 150 years ago. 54 00:04:51,836 --> 00:04:56,621 That's part of its fascination for local history guide Simona. 55 00:04:58,196 --> 00:05:02,171 From 1861 to 1893, 56 00:05:02,196 --> 00:05:04,851 the very beginning of unification of Italy, 57 00:05:04,876 --> 00:05:08,731 the landowners and the noble families debate a lot 58 00:05:08,756 --> 00:05:13,371 about how to do the rail line in this side of Sicily. 59 00:05:13,396 --> 00:05:15,520 They need a railway. 60 00:05:15,545 --> 00:05:18,811 They need to reach Siracusa's port 61 00:05:18,836 --> 00:05:22,211 in order to sell their product. 62 00:05:23,756 --> 00:05:28,881 It was along this eight-mile stretch from Comiso to our first stop, Donnafugata, 63 00:05:28,906 --> 00:05:33,851 that the line's construction took a rather unusual turn. 64 00:05:35,036 --> 00:05:41,341 A local royal baron fancied his own bit of railway - and station. 65 00:05:43,086 --> 00:05:45,131 A touch of luxury for him, 66 00:05:45,156 --> 00:05:48,931 but a much more difficult route for the engineers. 67 00:05:50,436 --> 00:05:53,570 The railway from Comiso to Ragusa 68 00:05:53,595 --> 00:05:56,931 had to pass on the top of the canyon. 69 00:06:05,156 --> 00:06:07,981 Francesca, who grew up near here, 70 00:06:08,006 --> 00:06:13,211 knows much about this eccentric baron and his very own stop. 71 00:06:14,316 --> 00:06:17,411 We are at Donnafugata train station. 72 00:06:17,436 --> 00:06:23,491 It's a bit of a special kind of station because it is not in a town 73 00:06:23,516 --> 00:06:26,261 but by a castle. 74 00:06:26,286 --> 00:06:31,731 It's a residence for the Barons Arezzo di Donnafugata. 75 00:06:36,236 --> 00:06:40,291 It's not actually a castle. It is a country mansion. 76 00:06:40,316 --> 00:06:45,731 It was built as you see it today in the second half of the 19th century. 77 00:06:45,756 --> 00:06:51,851 The reason why he transformed it into a neo-Gothic castle 78 00:06:51,876 --> 00:06:57,690 was actually because, at that time, the Sicilian aristocracy 79 00:06:57,715 --> 00:07:01,570 looked at England as an example. 80 00:07:03,396 --> 00:07:06,801 The baron was intrigued by Hampton Court 81 00:07:06,826 --> 00:07:12,770 and thought he'd emulate Henry VIII in rural Sicily, 82 00:07:12,795 --> 00:07:17,570 including a replica of the king's aristocratic pastime. 83 00:07:19,516 --> 00:07:23,900 We are heading to something that brings us back to Britain, 84 00:07:23,925 --> 00:07:25,770 which is the maze. 85 00:07:27,465 --> 00:07:32,011 Designed exactly as Hampton Court's Maze, 86 00:07:32,036 --> 00:07:35,770 but it's not made of hedges. 87 00:07:35,795 --> 00:07:39,371 It's made of stone. 88 00:07:39,396 --> 00:07:44,261 The objective of the maze is to get to the centre. 89 00:07:47,396 --> 00:07:49,181 SHE CHUCKLES 90 00:07:49,845 --> 00:07:52,181 We got lost. SHE CHUCKLES 91 00:07:53,646 --> 00:07:56,820 There we are. This is the centre. 92 00:07:56,845 --> 00:08:00,291 Now we have to find our way back. 93 00:08:02,566 --> 00:08:04,900 Oh! I made a mistake. 94 00:08:07,566 --> 00:08:09,541 SHE LAUGHS 95 00:08:14,465 --> 00:08:16,440 I made it. 96 00:08:28,156 --> 00:08:31,331 Leaving these royal pleasures behind, 97 00:08:31,356 --> 00:08:37,001 we head east towards an area of outstanding beauty. 98 00:08:41,236 --> 00:08:44,931 And driving us there is Amedeo. 99 00:09:20,436 --> 00:09:23,971 As our train heads south, 100 00:09:23,996 --> 00:09:28,381 it now enters the heart of this hidden area of Sicily 101 00:09:28,406 --> 00:09:34,741 with not just one but seven cities with World Heritage status. 102 00:09:51,716 --> 00:09:57,211 We're gliding through Sicily on our historic railway voyage 103 00:09:57,236 --> 00:10:01,161 to the dizzying heights of Mount Etna. 104 00:10:02,646 --> 00:10:06,651 From Comiso we travelled eight miles to Donnafugata. 105 00:10:06,676 --> 00:10:09,850 Now we continue uphill toward Ragusa, 106 00:10:09,875 --> 00:10:15,331 the first of seven UNESCO World Heritage towns along our journey. 107 00:10:15,356 --> 00:10:17,291 Then on to Modica, 108 00:10:17,316 --> 00:10:21,901 and after 8O miles we'll reach Siracusa on the coast. 109 00:10:26,716 --> 00:10:28,970 Only 45 minutes into our journey 110 00:10:28,995 --> 00:10:33,621 and our train is climbing to over 1,600 feet... 111 00:10:36,516 --> 00:10:41,291 ...a mountainous region split by huge canyons 112 00:10:41,316 --> 00:10:45,821 till it arrives in the ancient town of Ragusa. 113 00:10:51,636 --> 00:10:53,720 This is my stop. Bye-bye. 114 00:10:59,676 --> 00:11:04,541 Following an earthquake in 1693, 115 00:11:04,566 --> 00:11:10,081 the old town was completely rebuilt in this dramatic baroque style. 116 00:11:12,316 --> 00:11:17,571 Towering over the old town is the magnificent Church of St George, 117 00:11:17,596 --> 00:11:21,050 a treasure box made of stone. 118 00:11:22,125 --> 00:11:26,331 It's no wonder the city is a UNESCO World Heritage site. 119 00:11:28,955 --> 00:11:31,901 However, one of its greatest building achievements 120 00:11:31,926 --> 00:11:36,331 is not on top of the city's hills but below them. 121 00:11:38,316 --> 00:11:43,211 We're about to encounter a lesser known masterpiece, 122 00:11:43,236 --> 00:11:45,771 built 140 years ago. 123 00:11:53,916 --> 00:11:58,691 It's a true hidden gem of Sicilian railway engineering. 124 00:11:59,846 --> 00:12:05,571 My favourite part of the train line is the helicoidal track from Modica to Ragusa. 125 00:12:05,596 --> 00:12:09,970 It's important for us because it's a special piece of engineering. 126 00:12:11,586 --> 00:12:16,930 For the next mile, our train is travelling down inside a mountain. 127 00:12:24,456 --> 00:12:27,970 To cope with the incredibly steep 700ft slope, 128 00:12:27,995 --> 00:12:30,251 the engineers had to reduce the gradient 129 00:12:30,276 --> 00:12:35,970 by taking the railway in a complete circle through the rock. 130 00:12:45,636 --> 00:12:49,411 Built when most locals travelled by horse and cart, 131 00:12:49,436 --> 00:12:54,461 it's an extraordinary feat of ingenuity and hard work. 132 00:12:56,516 --> 00:13:01,461 One that Emanuele has spent the last 40 years writing about. 133 00:13:02,875 --> 00:13:08,131 The big challenge was building these tunnels by hands. 134 00:13:08,156 --> 00:13:11,211 There were not sophisticated tools. 135 00:13:11,236 --> 00:13:16,170 They collected all the people to break stones by hands. 136 00:13:19,095 --> 00:13:22,351 It was on the 18th ofjune 1893 137 00:13:22,376 --> 00:13:27,641 that this incredible spiral tunnel section of the railway was finally opened. 138 00:13:29,666 --> 00:13:32,281 It's coming. That's it. Here we are. 139 00:13:32,306 --> 00:13:35,100 It's a 668 train. 140 00:13:35,125 --> 00:13:38,771 The beginning of the spiral track. 141 00:13:41,766 --> 00:13:48,120 It goes straightaway a big circle of 300 as a radius... 142 00:13:51,516 --> 00:13:57,451 ...and it goes out from that black hole of the tunnel. 143 00:13:58,916 --> 00:14:01,561 Ah, here we are. 144 00:14:01,586 --> 00:14:03,561 That's it. 145 00:14:12,406 --> 00:14:14,691 Ciao! 146 00:14:18,836 --> 00:14:22,201 This is a splendid engineering work, 147 00:14:22,226 --> 00:14:25,050 the most famous in Sicily 148 00:14:25,075 --> 00:14:27,050 and even in Italy. 149 00:14:28,716 --> 00:14:34,920 Sadly, the main engineer, Giuseppe Mazzarella, never got to enjoy its success. 150 00:14:36,586 --> 00:14:40,531 He was worried about the two curved tunnels meeting up. 151 00:14:43,156 --> 00:14:46,771 His 92-year-old great-granddaughter, Concetta, 152 00:14:46,796 --> 00:14:50,941 recounts what happened on the brink of his triumph. 153 00:15:15,736 --> 00:15:19,990 The tunnel was not without its dangers, though. 154 00:15:20,015 --> 00:15:24,601 Emanuele was very close to his father, a train driver, 155 00:15:24,626 --> 00:15:28,990 and in the clays of steam this was a dangerous career to be in. 156 00:15:30,776 --> 00:15:32,791 In 1963, 157 00:15:32,816 --> 00:15:38,641 a big heavy train was in the middle of this spiral tunnel, 158 00:15:38,666 --> 00:15:43,431 and the train stayed for hours because they couldn't move. 159 00:15:43,456 --> 00:15:48,150 They were dying because of carbon monoxide. 160 00:15:50,536 --> 00:15:56,461 Another train came down slowly to help them out. 161 00:15:58,766 --> 00:16:03,030 When the train was out, people were collapsing. 162 00:16:05,406 --> 00:16:10,791 The person who went bravely with his steam engine 163 00:16:10,816 --> 00:16:13,431 was my father. 164 00:16:13,456 --> 00:16:15,841 That's it. 165 00:16:15,866 --> 00:16:18,921 He stayed in the hospital for one week. 166 00:16:19,946 --> 00:16:22,711 I was really proud of it. 167 00:16:25,586 --> 00:16:28,351 That's why... 168 00:16:28,376 --> 00:16:31,431 you know, humbly talking, 169 00:16:31,456 --> 00:16:34,070 that's why these books. 170 00:16:40,946 --> 00:16:44,921 Emanuele, so proud of his father's heroic rescue, 171 00:16:44,946 --> 00:16:47,791 is still moved by the memory. 172 00:16:49,816 --> 00:16:54,101 It's a tremendous piece of railway here in Sicily. 173 00:16:57,295 --> 00:17:00,561 As we climb up through these Sicilian mountains, 174 00:17:00,586 --> 00:17:05,270 the construction challenges did not stop at Ragusa. 175 00:17:06,896 --> 00:17:09,351 Over the next seven miles, 176 00:17:09,376 --> 00:17:14,711 steep-sided ravines forced the engineers to build six large bridges... 177 00:17:19,045 --> 00:17:22,511 ...a staggering 43 small bridges... 178 00:17:30,295 --> 00:17:32,871 ...and carve 13 tunnels. 179 00:17:44,175 --> 00:17:46,301 BOY SPEAKS IN ITALIAN 180 00:17:47,406 --> 00:17:51,591 As we escape the final mile-long tunnel... 181 00:17:51,616 --> 00:17:54,150 TRAIN WHISTLE 182 00:17:58,816 --> 00:18:01,871 ...we reach the town of Modica. 183 00:18:04,936 --> 00:18:10,761 Like Ragusa, Modica was also destroyed by the devastating earthquake of 1693. 184 00:18:14,016 --> 00:18:16,400 It, too, rose up from the rubble, 185 00:18:16,425 --> 00:18:21,301 and now it's not just these buildings that have been around for centuries. 186 00:18:26,175 --> 00:18:31,270 The Spanish left something else behind 500 years ago. 187 00:18:34,896 --> 00:18:36,551 I'm Pierpaolo Ruta. 188 00:18:36,576 --> 00:18:39,661 I'm the sixth generation of the Bonajuto family, 189 00:18:39,686 --> 00:18:42,351 and I live in Modica, Sicily. 190 00:18:42,376 --> 00:18:45,351 I am a chocolate maker. 191 00:18:49,536 --> 00:18:53,511 When Spanish people arrived in South America 192 00:18:53,536 --> 00:18:56,221 and discovered this kind of product 193 00:18:56,246 --> 00:19:02,150 that was made smashing cocoa seeds on stones, 194 00:19:02,175 --> 00:19:05,871 chocolate at that time was very, very bitter, 195 00:19:05,896 --> 00:19:08,511 never mixed with sugar. 196 00:19:08,536 --> 00:19:14,221 And many Spanish researchers think that Sicily was very important 197 00:19:14,246 --> 00:19:18,911 for the meeting of sugar and cocoa seeds. 198 00:19:21,576 --> 00:19:27,351 And one person who mastered this divine concoction was Francesco. 199 00:19:28,656 --> 00:19:31,511 Pierpaolo's great-great-grandfather 200 00:19:31,536 --> 00:19:35,681 created this chocolate factory 150 years ago. 201 00:19:37,326 --> 00:19:42,681 We are melting the cocoa mass at about 45 degrees Celsius. 202 00:19:45,456 --> 00:19:49,711 As you can see, the chocolate is still grainy 203 00:19:49,736 --> 00:19:53,400 and the sugar never melts inside the bars. 204 00:19:54,295 --> 00:19:59,221 And that's why we have to shake the chocolate into the moulds. 205 00:20:00,656 --> 00:20:03,631 RATTLING This is the music of my childhood, 206 00:20:03,656 --> 00:20:06,681 and it is the smell of my childhood. 207 00:20:06,706 --> 00:20:08,991 This is the smell of my grandfather. 208 00:20:09,016 --> 00:20:13,351 It's very important for me for keeping this kind of tradition. 209 00:20:17,016 --> 00:20:23,501 Today this tiny chocolate shop attracts tourists from all over the world, 210 00:20:23,526 --> 00:20:28,911 selling a staggering 800,000 chocolate bars a year. 211 00:20:30,656 --> 00:20:34,221 That's 30 tonnes of deliciousness. 212 00:20:36,215 --> 00:20:40,190 Imagine that you were living in the 16th century. 213 00:20:40,215 --> 00:20:47,031 Tasting the first chocolate was very similar to this kind of chocolate. 214 00:20:57,415 --> 00:21:03,781 With our sweet tooth satisfied, our train ventures east again... 215 00:21:12,165 --> 00:21:17,070 ...on a route where you are never too young to delight in a bit of train spotting. 216 00:21:18,856 --> 00:21:20,831 BOY: 217 00:21:27,526 --> 00:21:28,991 BOY: 218 00:21:31,376 --> 00:21:35,751 What better than a father and son day trip? 219 00:21:35,776 --> 00:21:38,111 FATHER: 220 00:22:01,736 --> 00:22:04,111 8O miles from our start... 221 00:22:05,986 --> 00:22:09,270 ...we've finally reached the glorious coast... 222 00:22:13,016 --> 00:22:18,471 ...as we slowly roll into the station at Siracusa. 223 00:22:23,906 --> 00:22:28,631 It's a place bathed in ancient history, 224 00:22:28,656 --> 00:22:33,270 the perfect stomping ground for British archaeologist Michael, 225 00:22:33,295 --> 00:22:36,111 who's made it his second home. 226 00:22:37,726 --> 00:22:42,111 I've been researching and teaching the history and culture of Siracusa 227 00:22:42,136 --> 00:22:44,751 for the last 15 years. 228 00:22:46,696 --> 00:22:49,881 Siracusa was one of the greatest cities of the ancient world. 229 00:22:49,906 --> 00:22:52,751 It's a place replete with history, with archaeology. 230 00:22:52,776 --> 00:22:57,991 It's an absolutely beautiful place to live today because it has beautiful architecture. 231 00:22:58,016 --> 00:23:00,471 The food here is amazing, the wine is superb. 232 00:23:00,496 --> 00:23:04,341 The sea is a delight to swim in. It has everything going for it. 233 00:23:09,186 --> 00:23:15,031 Its strategic position on a trade crossroads in the Mediterranean 234 00:23:15,056 --> 00:23:20,591 made Siracusa one of the most desirable cities to conquer in Sicily. 235 00:23:23,256 --> 00:23:28,190 But it's Siracusa's half-mile-long island, called Ortigia, 236 00:23:28,215 --> 00:23:32,161 that really holds a special place in Michael's heart - 237 00:23:32,186 --> 00:23:35,161 and has an incredible secret. 238 00:23:36,295 --> 00:23:40,060 We're coming up through the palaces of the city 239 00:23:40,085 --> 00:23:43,341 into the cathedral square of Siracusa, 240 00:23:43,366 --> 00:23:48,471 one of the most beautiful squares in all of Italy. 241 00:23:53,496 --> 00:23:55,471 The shape is so unusual. 242 00:23:55,496 --> 00:23:57,831 You see a long, straight line on this side. 243 00:23:57,856 --> 00:24:03,551 Follows the route of an ancient Greek road laid out 2,700 years ago. 244 00:24:05,085 --> 00:24:08,190 On this side you have a beautiful, gentle curve, 245 00:24:08,215 --> 00:24:12,751 the buildings all beautifully laid out, one against the other. 246 00:24:26,576 --> 00:24:31,621 From the facade, this appears to be a beautiful example of a baroque church. 247 00:24:31,646 --> 00:24:35,510 But in fact this building started life 248 00:24:35,535 --> 00:24:39,341 as an ancient Greek temple in the fifth century BC 249 00:24:39,366 --> 00:24:42,060 dedicated to the goddess Athena. 250 00:24:44,926 --> 00:24:49,310 Around us would have stood some of the greatest works of art of the ancient world. 251 00:24:49,335 --> 00:24:52,701 This was one of the richest, most spectacular temples 252 00:24:52,726 --> 00:24:55,871 that the Greeks ever made on the island of Sicily. 253 00:25:01,176 --> 00:25:06,190 In the sixth century AD, after 1,000 years of use as a Greek temple, 254 00:25:06,215 --> 00:25:10,751 the Christians took this building and turned it into a church. 255 00:25:14,646 --> 00:25:16,831 But then in the ninth century AD, 256 00:25:16,856 --> 00:25:20,341 the island was seized by Muslims coming from north Africa 257 00:25:20,366 --> 00:25:23,901 and was probably turned into a mosque. 258 00:25:23,926 --> 00:25:27,871 When the Muslim kingdom was in turn conquered by the Norman knights, 259 00:25:27,896 --> 00:25:30,541 this became once more a cathedral, 260 00:25:30,566 --> 00:25:33,751 dedicated to the Roman Catholic church. 261 00:25:36,136 --> 00:25:41,471 To have three different religions worship on one site over 3,000 years 262 00:25:41,496 --> 00:25:44,151 is extraordinary. 263 00:25:45,976 --> 00:25:51,310 Siracusa is a magnificent ancient Greek city in Italy. 264 00:25:55,746 --> 00:26:01,390 Now our train heads towards Sicily's biggest natural wonder, 265 00:26:01,415 --> 00:26:04,591 Mount Etna, 266 00:26:04,616 --> 00:26:08,951 a volcano that has destroyed the island as well as built it. 267 00:26:10,926 --> 00:26:15,671 And we'll explore the city brave enough to sit directly on its slopes. 268 00:26:16,746 --> 00:26:20,640 From here we have a special view. 269 00:26:20,665 --> 00:26:26,390 One of the best preserved Roman monuments in Catania. 270 00:26:31,664 --> 00:26:36,559 We're on a serene and beautiful journey through Sicily, 271 00:26:36,584 --> 00:26:40,790 heading to the highest, most active volcano in Europe. 272 00:26:43,625 --> 00:26:47,040 After 140 miles of rocky ravines 273 00:26:47,065 --> 00:26:50,320 and the glorious baroque buildings of the southeast, 274 00:26:50,345 --> 00:26:55,170 we're now exploring the dark lava fields of the north. 275 00:26:55,985 --> 00:27:01,429 After Siracusa, we'll glide along the shimmering Ionian coast, 276 00:27:01,454 --> 00:27:04,320 crossing the old salt lakes of Augusta, 277 00:27:04,345 --> 00:27:08,759 and after 20 miles we'll reach the city of Catania. 278 00:27:35,625 --> 00:27:41,879 Its unique microclimate makes it the perfect growing ground for blood oranges, 279 00:27:41,904 --> 00:27:45,710 brought to this area more than 200 years ago. 280 00:27:48,145 --> 00:27:50,120 TRAIN WHISTLE 281 00:28:02,904 --> 00:28:08,400 After travelling for over three hours from Comiso to Catania, 282 00:28:08,425 --> 00:28:13,679 our ride on this little diesel-powered Minuetto is about to come to an end. 283 00:28:19,904 --> 00:28:24,120 Waiting at the station is Eleonora, professor of archaeology, 284 00:28:24,145 --> 00:28:28,450 passionate about her city, and our charming guide for today. 285 00:28:28,475 --> 00:28:30,710 My name is Eleonora Pappalardo. 286 00:28:30,735 --> 00:28:32,910 I live in Catania, 287 00:28:32,935 --> 00:28:36,120 which is my city since the time I was born. 288 00:28:36,145 --> 00:28:41,759 Catania is important for its strategic position just near the sea 289 00:28:41,784 --> 00:28:45,710 and for the richness of its territory. 290 00:28:48,985 --> 00:28:53,320 Catania's long history can be traced back 3,000 years. 291 00:28:53,345 --> 00:28:57,400 It was such a desirable place that it's been conquered by many, 292 00:28:57,425 --> 00:29:01,629 from the Greeks and the Romans to the Spanish and the Arabs. 293 00:29:03,545 --> 00:29:06,985 Casting its formidable shadow over the entire city 294 00:29:07,010 --> 00:29:12,185 is the magnificent and very active Mount Etna. 295 00:29:13,930 --> 00:29:18,315 There's a strong link between the long history of Catania 296 00:29:18,340 --> 00:29:21,185 and its volcano, Etna, 297 00:29:21,210 --> 00:29:25,515 which has, through the millennia, forged the landscape 298 00:29:25,540 --> 00:29:29,475 and provided also material for constructions. 299 00:29:35,280 --> 00:29:39,825 Which is why this place is known as the Dark City. 300 00:29:39,850 --> 00:29:44,115 The Sicilians didn't just build this city out of lava. 301 00:29:44,140 --> 00:29:49,874 They gave it some extra style by accentuating the lava with white limestone. 302 00:29:50,899 --> 00:29:54,874 Here you can have the idea of the Dark City 303 00:29:54,899 --> 00:30:00,465 because inside we are just surrounded by buildings made of lava stone blocks. 304 00:30:00,490 --> 00:30:05,544 You can immerse yourself in the colours and sounds 305 00:30:05,569 --> 00:30:07,674 typical of this city. 306 00:30:08,649 --> 00:30:10,905 HE SHOUTS IN ITALIAN 307 00:30:10,930 --> 00:30:13,624 MARKET HUBBUB 308 00:30:20,340 --> 00:30:22,515 These ancient arches 309 00:30:22,540 --> 00:30:27,754 have sheltered Sicily's largest open-air fish market for 400 years. 310 00:30:27,779 --> 00:30:29,615 MARKET HUBBUB 311 00:30:41,210 --> 00:30:44,075 It's good. It's perfect. 312 00:30:44,100 --> 00:30:46,075 Grazie. 313 00:30:47,100 --> 00:30:49,515 It's a Sicilian sushi. 314 00:30:53,060 --> 00:30:55,645 For the men and women living in Etna's shadow, 315 00:30:55,670 --> 00:30:58,744 the earth can often move. 316 00:31:04,019 --> 00:31:07,105 For us, it's also normal sometimes 317 00:31:07,130 --> 00:31:11,825 to suddenly feel the earth trembling at our feet. 318 00:31:11,850 --> 00:31:15,825 It can happen that we get up in the morning, we open the window 319 00:31:15,850 --> 00:31:20,744 and we find everything around us black, covered by volcanic ashes. 320 00:31:20,769 --> 00:31:22,825 But for us it's quite normal. 321 00:31:22,850 --> 00:31:25,285 We clean everything and we start our day. 322 00:31:28,180 --> 00:31:31,794 Mount Etna isn't the only great presence from the past. 323 00:31:34,569 --> 00:31:39,874 Built over 2,000 years ago and almost entirely of lava stones, 324 00:31:39,899 --> 00:31:46,465 this impressive Roman amphitheatre could host 17,000 spectators. 325 00:31:49,490 --> 00:31:51,994 What we are seeing here 326 00:31:52,019 --> 00:31:56,235 is just one-tenth of the original structure, 327 00:31:56,260 --> 00:31:59,385 the rest running underground, 328 00:31:59,410 --> 00:32:02,315 hidden by the modern city. 329 00:32:03,460 --> 00:32:08,635 Lucky for us, Eleonora knows how best to view Catania's layers of history. 330 00:32:11,300 --> 00:32:14,075 Behind every door, or special hotel, 331 00:32:14,100 --> 00:32:17,994 is another spectacular archaeological wonder. 332 00:32:18,019 --> 00:32:21,235 From here we have a special view. 333 00:32:27,100 --> 00:32:31,955 In Catania, the best archaeological Roman monuments 334 00:32:31,980 --> 00:32:36,994 are physically connected with the historic town. 335 00:32:37,019 --> 00:32:41,715 Up to 1950, all the area of the theatre 336 00:32:41,740 --> 00:32:45,994 was completely covered by private houses. 337 00:32:52,769 --> 00:32:55,435 The theatre over via Vittorio Emanuele 338 00:32:55,460 --> 00:33:01,025 is one of the best preserved Roman monuments in Catania. 339 00:33:06,460 --> 00:33:11,195 It's clear Catania has embraced its volcano. 340 00:33:11,220 --> 00:33:15,275 But its people took it one step further. 341 00:33:15,300 --> 00:33:19,945 This towering 11,000ft giant may loom over the city... 342 00:33:22,769 --> 00:33:25,835 ...but to serve the people who live on the volcano, 343 00:33:25,860 --> 00:33:29,555 they constructed its very own railway, 344 00:33:29,580 --> 00:33:32,235 the Circumetnea. 345 00:33:33,130 --> 00:33:37,515 This special 70-mile train line circles Etna 346 00:33:37,540 --> 00:33:42,585 and is a vital link for 15 towns and villages to the capital. 347 00:33:42,610 --> 00:33:48,555 It's an essential lifeline to the people who live and work under and on this great mountain. 348 00:33:50,330 --> 00:33:54,475 We're about to explore it in all its glory. 349 00:34:03,080 --> 00:34:08,495 It's the last stage of our spectacular journey through Sicily. 350 00:34:10,830 --> 00:34:16,134 We have travelled from the rural beauty and dramatic baroque cities of the south... 351 00:34:18,750 --> 00:34:22,415 ...to the extraordinary architecture of Catania. 352 00:34:24,080 --> 00:34:26,165 We've left the main line 353 00:34:26,190 --> 00:34:31,635 and we'll be travelling on the very special railway that circles Mount Etna, 354 00:34:31,660 --> 00:34:34,225 the Circumetnea. 355 00:34:39,450 --> 00:34:41,505 From Borgo station, 356 00:34:41,530 --> 00:34:45,225 the line travels 70 miles around the active volcano, 357 00:34:45,250 --> 00:34:51,314 climbing 3,000ft towards Randazzo and Etna's wine region 358 00:34:51,339 --> 00:34:54,755 before reaching the end of the line at Riposto. 359 00:34:59,339 --> 00:35:03,785 Getting ready at Borgo station is the legendary Fiat train, 360 00:35:03,810 --> 00:35:05,785 built 50 years ago. 361 00:35:09,170 --> 00:35:15,415 Also still going strong after more than three decades working on our train 362 00:35:15,440 --> 00:35:17,334 is Antonello. 363 00:35:32,339 --> 00:35:36,234 Interestingly, it was a Cornish entrepreneur, Robert Trewhella, 364 00:35:36,259 --> 00:35:39,234 who built the line in 1889. 365 00:35:40,300 --> 00:35:45,625 It takes two hours to almost circle the volcano, 366 00:35:45,650 --> 00:35:48,755 crossing from lunar-like landscapes... 367 00:35:51,500 --> 00:35:56,395 ...to the fertile farm regions famous for their pistachios and wine. 368 00:36:15,300 --> 00:36:17,965 Created 500,000 years ago 369 00:36:17,990 --> 00:36:23,605 by the collision of the African and the Eurasian tectonic plates, 370 00:36:23,630 --> 00:36:29,795 Mount Etna now covers an astonishing area of nearly 750 square miles. 371 00:37:00,510 --> 00:37:04,715 Also on board the ADE diesel-powered train 372 00:37:04,740 --> 00:37:09,885 are English teacher Francesca and her husband Santino. 373 00:37:09,910 --> 00:37:14,355 It's wonderful, the landscape you can see, 374 00:37:14,380 --> 00:37:17,405 can admire on Etna. 375 00:37:17,430 --> 00:37:23,605 All the eruptions destroy some stretches of the railway. 376 00:37:25,019 --> 00:37:29,204 The Circumetnea still is threatened by its fierce host 377 00:37:29,229 --> 00:37:31,845 and has been destroyed three times. 378 00:37:36,119 --> 00:37:40,635 The most recent eruption, on the 17th of March 1981... 379 00:37:43,099 --> 00:37:47,845 ...stopped just one mile outside the town of Randazzo, 380 00:37:47,870 --> 00:37:53,124 interrupting the railway and destroying houses on its course. 381 00:37:55,300 --> 00:37:57,275 TRAIN WHISTLE 382 00:38:01,300 --> 00:38:04,805 We've now come to the end of our train journey. 383 00:38:10,830 --> 00:38:17,085 And at Randazzo, you can enjoy Etna's very own vintage, 384 00:38:17,110 --> 00:38:19,715 a unique, slightly smoky-tasting wine 385 00:38:19,740 --> 00:38:23,605 from one of the 140 local vineyards. 386 00:38:23,630 --> 00:38:25,525 WOMAN: Salute! 387 00:38:26,580 --> 00:38:30,525 After that, there's only one thing left to do. 388 00:38:32,313 --> 00:38:34,289 Just a few miles from the railway, 389 00:38:34,314 --> 00:38:38,690 you can climb to the very top of this majestic mountain. 390 00:38:44,155 --> 00:38:48,600 Nature photographer Giuseppe, who's lived his entire life on Etna, 391 00:38:48,625 --> 00:38:54,490 has been exploring and documenting this incredible volcano since he was four years old. 392 00:38:56,075 --> 00:38:58,409 Today is a good day to go up, 393 00:38:58,434 --> 00:39:02,600 also because there's an activity of Mount Etna from the southeast crater. 394 00:39:02,625 --> 00:39:06,490 So there's an emission of ash. 395 00:39:06,515 --> 00:39:10,800 Explosion during the night, it's possible to see the red glowing. 396 00:39:30,795 --> 00:39:34,370 Special 4x4 trucks 397 00:39:34,395 --> 00:39:38,800 take us on the final climb to the summit, 398 00:39:38,825 --> 00:39:41,880 crossing three recent lava flows. 399 00:39:52,035 --> 00:39:54,690 So now we are on 2,900 metres, 400 00:39:54,715 --> 00:39:57,880 very close to the summit, the crater's rumbling. 401 00:39:57,905 --> 00:39:59,770 This is the southeast crater. 402 00:39:59,795 --> 00:40:04,289 It is the youngest of all the summit craters on Mount Etna. 403 00:40:07,905 --> 00:40:13,209 Despite the volcano emitting 5,000 tonnes of sulphur dioxide every day, 404 00:40:13,234 --> 00:40:17,159 there seems to be no shortage of intrepid tourists. 405 00:40:21,454 --> 00:40:23,540 We have a lot of people today. 406 00:40:23,565 --> 00:40:29,070 In a normal period we have 400 people that can turn around the summit craters. 407 00:40:30,015 --> 00:40:34,510 This is one of the most famous places for people, 408 00:40:34,535 --> 00:40:36,820 and also for the cinema production. 409 00:40:36,845 --> 00:40:40,349 Take a look now. There's ash. It's coming out. 410 00:40:40,374 --> 00:40:45,270 So now maybe there's a new face on the southeast crater with the emission of ash. 411 00:40:45,295 --> 00:40:48,229 LOW RUMBLING Still rumbling. 412 00:40:53,485 --> 00:40:59,790 To capture these spectacular explosions takes time, patience... 413 00:41:01,845 --> 00:41:04,150 ...and nerve. 414 00:41:07,975 --> 00:41:12,540 I have many favourite moments, but there's one for sure really important, 415 00:41:12,565 --> 00:41:17,630 and it's on top of the southeast crater, viewing the sunset. 416 00:41:17,655 --> 00:41:21,990 There was a huge pressure of gases that melted the rocks. 417 00:41:23,454 --> 00:41:29,099 Never seen, never described before and was really nice. 418 00:41:29,124 --> 00:41:33,460 We stayed about for two hours there in silence, 419 00:41:33,485 --> 00:41:37,660 enjoying this marvellous show. 420 00:41:37,685 --> 00:41:41,179 And great footage, for sure. 421 00:41:43,124 --> 00:41:46,820 Documenting Etna can be a risky business. 422 00:41:48,374 --> 00:41:52,299 During the 2017 eruptions, 423 00:41:52,324 --> 00:41:55,910 Giuseppe pushed his luck to the limit. 424 00:41:58,254 --> 00:42:01,990 We were really close, about one metre from the lava flow, 425 00:42:02,015 --> 00:42:04,910 with poisonous gases everywhere, 426 00:42:04,935 --> 00:42:08,990 very high temperature - close to 1,000 degrees Celsius. 427 00:42:09,015 --> 00:42:12,870 So it was a big challenge for us trying to save the equipment, 428 00:42:12,895 --> 00:42:15,510 to try to shoot new footage, 429 00:42:15,535 --> 00:42:17,940 and enjoy also. 430 00:42:17,965 --> 00:42:20,580 Very big reward, for sure. 431 00:42:23,574 --> 00:42:26,020 It's this great passion for the volcano 432 00:42:26,045 --> 00:42:28,229 and the breath-taking pictures 433 00:42:28,254 --> 00:42:32,740 that keep Giuseppe coming back time and time again. 434 00:42:39,655 --> 00:42:43,830 Our train journey has travelled around the southeast corner of Sicily, 435 00:42:43,855 --> 00:42:47,710 crossing challenging valleys, 436 00:42:47,735 --> 00:42:52,910 a route that highlights the rich history of the island 437 00:42:52,935 --> 00:42:57,070 in some of the most breath-taking landscapes. 438 00:42:59,935 --> 00:43:03,020 The trip from Comiso to Mount Etna 439 00:43:03,045 --> 00:43:06,580 is a beautifuljourney, created by man... 440 00:43:06,605 --> 00:43:09,099 and nature. 441 00:43:32,965 --> 00:43:35,549 Subtitles by Red Bee Media 37536

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