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Places of pristine nature
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and fascinating scenery are not just a dream.
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They can still be found because national parks protect
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and preserve the rugged beauty of our planet.
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More than 40 years ago in the far North of the country,
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passionate conservationists established
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what then was Canada's biggest nature reserve,
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Kluane National Park, icy, isolated and with no roads.
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This is a spectacular world.
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A wilderness that attracts a special type of person.
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For more than a year, we accompanied rangers and scientists,
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bush pilots, and members of the First Nations here
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and discovered the adventure of their everyday lives,
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far away from noise, smartphones and stress.
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With its seemingly infinite wilderness,
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Kluane is full of mystery.
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(slow orchestral music)
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People up here in the Yukon will tell you that
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to really experience the Canadian winter,
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you need to do just what the First Nations and pioneers
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from Europe did more than 130 years ago,
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harnessed dogs to your sled and head off into the vast
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expanses of the North.
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(dogs barking)
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This woman has become something of a local in the Yukon.
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Eva Glanzman knows exactly where
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she's going to go ice fishing today, so to her Huskies.
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They love being together in a landscape
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that could not be more remote or desolate.
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As a child in Switzerland's Vanessa Oberland,
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Eva always dreamed of feeling the Earth's beauty,
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and living as if she were in another age.
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(Speaking in foreign language)
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What I love here is being able to work
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far more directly for what I need in life.
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I go out and get my meat from nature.
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I have a garden and work more directly, not to earn money
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in order to buy things.
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I'm even building my own house,
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I try to do as much as possible myself.
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It's great when you can do that.
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I think it would be hard for me to live in town.
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I could never lead the sort of life I lead out here.
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With just 700 inhabitants,
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Haines Junction is located on the edge
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of the huge Kluane National Park.
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We have come to meet a woman who arrived here
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on a visit from Northern Germany and stayed.
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A park ranger, today Emma is on her way to Sheep Mountain.
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It's one of her favorite places.
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Being able to live here
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is pretty exceptional, I'm so lucky.
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It sometimes seems a bit like a dream.
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Emma was a teacher
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when she first visited Kluane.
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She felt at once that it came closer to her sense of life
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than anywhere else.
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National Park is something wonderful,
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but they're also regions we need to protect from ourselves.
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We now have such a powerful influence on our environment
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that we set aside parcels of land
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and place them under protection.
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We must try to live more imbalance with nature.
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The Kluane Park borders directly on Alaska,
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around 22,000 square kilometers in size.
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It is the fourth biggest national park in Canada.
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82% of its area is permanently covered by snow and ice.
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After almost six months of icy cold,
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when summer has long since arrived in other places,
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the fall finally settles in.
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Then in early June, everything happens quickly,
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from well below zero the temperature climbs to 20 degrees
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delighting the Park's inhabitants right through
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to the Indian summer.
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In 1980 UNESCO declared the region
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to be part of the world's natural heritage.
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It has always been the home of countless species of birds,
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but this is also the habitat of large animals
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like grizzly bears and moose.
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They can withdraw into the mountains,
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which offer them protection.
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There are no roads in Kluane National Park.
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The taxi drivers of the Yukon are it's bush pilots.
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One of them is Thor Fender from Germany.
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He regularly flies groups of venturous souls into the park,
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scientists, adventurers and park rangers.
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I suddenly had the chance to learn
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and do bush flying here.
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I attained my professional pilot's license
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and started flying commercially here in the Kluane Park.
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Once you've started something it's hard to stop.
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It's like an addiction.
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(speaking foreign language).
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Today Thor is taking us to a small airfield
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on the edge of the park.
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He used to be an architect.
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He learned to fly when he was only 15.
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After visiting the Yukon for the first time,
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he decided to give up everything back home and move here
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to the far North for good, a part of the world,
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which tests him every day.
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The biggest danger here in the park
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is strong turbulence in the form of powerful downdrafts.
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You have to keep an eye on the cloud formations,
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determine where the wind is coming from,
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and avoid those areas with a strong downdraft.
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The plane has a 300 horsepower engine,
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but it is quite possible that not even 300 horsepower
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will be enough to pull you out of a downdraft.
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Two hours away,
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somewhere in the middle of the wilderness,
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lies the small Silver City airfield,
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an insider's tip for researchers from all over the world.
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From here, they set out on their expeditions
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to the St.Elias Icefields.
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Waiting for Thor in Silver City today,
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is his old friend, Andy Williams,
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one of the first bush pilots.
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The two want to coordinate their transport flights
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for the summer.
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Morning Andy.
Good morning Morgan.
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Hello.
There so much change.
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Yeah.
How are you?
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Pretty good, pretty bumpy ride though.
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I bet, I didn't mean to stand in the middle
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of your runway, but there's a big bloody hole there.
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Yeah, I don't wanna drop my nose Willy.
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No, coffee?
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Sure, that'll be great.
No rush.
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(slow upbeat music)
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Andy, as he is known to everyone out here,
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was already living in the Yukon
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when the Kluane Park was established in 1972.
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I've been there since very much the beginning of the park.
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It hasn't changed very much at all.
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So if your electrical system grows eight you're lost.
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So really you're flying very much the way they did,
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a hundred years ago.
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A man of the North who loves stability,
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and a park which to us seems more and more
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like a monument against the rapid changes taking place
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elsewhere in the world.
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(rhythmical music)
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Kluane is regarded as the wildest
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of Canada's national parks.
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25% of all the country's grizzly bears,
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live here in the Yukon.
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For a long time now, their paths have repeatedly crossed
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with those of man.
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Anyone moving here has to live with their proximity
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and the dangers of the wilderness, which knows no bounds,
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especially in the weeks when grizzlies
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come out of hibernation.
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(speaking foreign language).
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(dogs barking)
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For Eva and her pack of half wild Huskies,
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it's time for a rump, away from civilization,
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there are a closely knit team
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and that also involves providing protection.
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If we come across a black bear,
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I'll let two or three of the dogs loose.
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They'll chase it away.
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So you've got less of a problem.
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The baguettes scared and climbs up a tree,
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I then whistle the dogs back.
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The bear will leave us alone and won't come again.
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Where a grizzly is concerned though,
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we're talking about a bit more power,
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a grizzly isn't afraid of anything.
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When the dogs go after a grizzly, the game suddenly changes.
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Then they get scared and the grizzly starts chasing them.
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They come back and along comes the bear with them.
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Eva's eight hectare plot of land
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borders directly on Kluane National Park.
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Here she plans to live independently
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and be totally self-sufficient.
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In spring, Eva sows her vegetable garden.
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She grows lettuce, carrots, and cabbage.
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The North demands a lot of personal initiative.
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Something Eva first had to learn when she came here
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as an immigrant.
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The most important thing I had to learn
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was to be independent, to do everything myself.
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And as a 23 year old, I found that hard.
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I don't really like doing things that are a bit unpleasant.
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So I keep putting them off until I was neck deep.
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At first, it was really difficult for me to organize things
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and motivate myself.
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In 1942, the Alaska Highway was a gravel road
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used mainly by the military.
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In Haines Junction time seems to have stood still.
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The next town, White Horse is 160 kilometers away
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and Anchorage in Alaska, a mere 835 kilometers away.
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Extreme isolation and nothing but nature,
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that is something you have to love, and Emma does.
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Born in Northern Germany, she was over the moon
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when she was given a job by Parks, Canada.
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I feel so privileged to be allowed to work
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for the national park.
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It's such a satisfying job being able to protect my belief
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and the importance of the environment
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and knowing that there are still such places in the world
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is really special.
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And being able to share that with other people
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is such a privilege.
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Her special field of research is the Dall sheep
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named after American zoologist, William H Dall,
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who first mentioned the species scientifically.
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Dall sheep are only found in Northwest Canada and Alaska.
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So far the breed has not been studied in any depth.
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Dall sheep live in small groups,
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consisting of ewes and lambs.
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The rams usually form separate bachelor communities
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and only congregate with the female animals
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in the mating season.
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Here on Sheep Mountain, Emma has the chance
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to observe the animals without disturbing them.
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Sheep Mountain is of great importance
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to Kluane National Park.
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It's truly a unique region.
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The mountain is directly visible from the Alaska Highway.
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It's very rare to have such direct access
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and observation possibilities.
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Emma's colleague belongs to the Ishihic tribe.
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Since 1995, the Indians or First Nations,
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as they are known in Canada, have had a share
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in administering the park.
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Today in the modern park world,
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their ancient knowledge of people in the wilderness
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is again, highly respected.
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Here in the North, First Nation peoples have followed
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the routes of the moose for thousands of years,
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so did Karrie Brown's ancestors.
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When she was a little girl,
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her grandmother used to take Karrie into the forest
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and explain the trees, the grasses and the herbs to her.
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Today, Karrie tells her son, Kassius
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about the world of their forefathers.
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We're looking for animals.
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There's animals everywhere.
Bears.
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What else?
Moose.
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Moose.
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Hey, Kassius, do you wanna take a look at this?
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Which tree is this?
Peepal.
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Yeah, do you know how to say that in native language?
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Yes.
Can you say (indistinct).
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I grew up with my grandmother and my grandfather,
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and I spent a lot of time fishing and hunting
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and in the winter times trapping with them.
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So I learned quite a bit about
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not only about hunting and fishing,
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but as well as the history and culture
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that they have brought from their parents growing up.
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Karrie wants her son to learn about
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the heritage of the First Nation peoples,
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in addition to getting the European-based education
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of Western Canada.
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In the future generations,
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for someone like my son, Kassius,
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it's important for him to know, you know,
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how to survive and harvest and hunt these animals
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00:15:17,140 --> 00:15:20,523
that we've been doing for countless generations.
263
00:15:22,280 --> 00:15:24,370
A new generation that could also thrive
264
00:15:24,370 --> 00:15:26,483
on a self-sufficient basis.
265
00:15:28,510 --> 00:15:30,451
Eva has a big job on our hands.
266
00:15:30,451 --> 00:15:34,060
She's building herself a house with Canadian pine.
267
00:15:34,060 --> 00:15:35,583
She started last autumn,
268
00:15:35,583 --> 00:15:37,723
and hopes to have it ready this year.
269
00:15:38,670 --> 00:15:41,340
Last winter tarpaulins provided protection
270
00:15:41,340 --> 00:15:42,618
from snow and ice.
271
00:15:42,618 --> 00:15:44,420
Over the next few months,
272
00:15:44,420 --> 00:15:46,953
Eva plans to have the roof in place.
273
00:15:55,120 --> 00:15:57,640
Last year I completed the ground floor,
274
00:15:57,640 --> 00:16:00,330
but because I had to work and attend to other things,
275
00:16:00,330 --> 00:16:03,440
I didn't have time to build more than I did.
276
00:16:03,440 --> 00:16:07,690
But I think it's great that I can do so many things myself.
277
00:16:07,690 --> 00:16:10,700
This winter, we didn't have that much snow.
278
00:16:10,700 --> 00:16:15,010
So in February I went into the forest, cut down some trees,
279
00:16:15,010 --> 00:16:17,368
and took them to the sawmill.
280
00:16:17,368 --> 00:16:19,654
(speaking in foreign language)
281
00:16:19,654 --> 00:16:21,490
I'm now cutting planks
282
00:16:21,490 --> 00:16:22,930
for the upper floor.
283
00:16:22,930 --> 00:16:26,713
The house will be a standard North American style log cabin.
284
00:16:27,782 --> 00:16:31,755
(speaking in foreign language)
285
00:16:31,755 --> 00:16:33,380
The timber for roof construction
286
00:16:33,380 --> 00:16:35,153
has to be prepared in spring.
287
00:16:41,470 --> 00:16:43,620
Eva cuts her pine logs to size
288
00:16:43,620 --> 00:16:46,680
at the only saw mill far and wide.
289
00:16:46,680 --> 00:16:47,990
In Northern Canada,
290
00:16:47,990 --> 00:16:51,133
it's a case of self to self have, even for women.
291
00:16:53,290 --> 00:16:55,310
I enjoy doing everything myself
292
00:16:55,310 --> 00:16:57,670
and not having to rely on someone.
293
00:16:57,670 --> 00:17:00,840
In the past, I used to be far more dependent
294
00:17:00,840 --> 00:17:04,272
on my partner for instance, who is now my ex.
295
00:17:04,272 --> 00:17:06,716
I've learned an awful lot.
296
00:17:06,716 --> 00:17:11,168
(speaking in foreign language)
297
00:17:11,168 --> 00:17:12,590
Women I think,
298
00:17:12,590 --> 00:17:15,450
should have far more confidence in themselves.
299
00:17:15,450 --> 00:17:17,073
It's such a pity they don't.
300
00:17:18,230 --> 00:17:19,900
Eva has a tip for any woman
301
00:17:19,900 --> 00:17:23,193
who would now also like to build her own house.
302
00:17:24,780 --> 00:17:26,100
You wouldn't start learning
303
00:17:26,100 --> 00:17:29,470
to surf with a board for advanced surface.
304
00:17:29,470 --> 00:17:32,921
And the same thing applies to power saw and so on.
305
00:17:32,921 --> 00:17:35,060
There are light power saws,
306
00:17:35,060 --> 00:17:37,660
and that is what you should start with.
307
00:17:37,660 --> 00:17:40,260
Then you will slowly become proficient.
308
00:17:40,260 --> 00:17:42,943
You notice what matters and you progress.
309
00:17:45,060 --> 00:17:47,770
27 Years spent in Kluane.
310
00:17:47,770 --> 00:17:50,510
No expectations, no deadlines,
311
00:17:50,510 --> 00:17:51,753
the feeling of freedom.
312
00:18:01,920 --> 00:18:05,160
The parks proximity to Alaska would, you might think
313
00:18:05,160 --> 00:18:07,010
result in a cold climate,
314
00:18:07,010 --> 00:18:09,230
but amazingly the temperature today
315
00:18:09,230 --> 00:18:11,420
is a pleasant 20 degrees.
316
00:18:11,420 --> 00:18:12,550
From time to time,
317
00:18:12,550 --> 00:18:16,433
it's said they even get 30 degree heat waves here.
318
00:18:17,407 --> 00:18:20,480
Because of the warm air from the Pacific ocean,
319
00:18:20,480 --> 00:18:23,280
the plant and animal life here is more diverse
320
00:18:23,280 --> 00:18:25,833
than anywhere else in Northern Canada.
321
00:18:34,028 --> 00:18:37,550
In the summer months, the Kluane Lake airstrip
322
00:18:37,550 --> 00:18:39,573
is almost a hive of activity.
323
00:18:44,950 --> 00:18:47,700
Andy is giving his plane, the once-over.
324
00:18:47,700 --> 00:18:50,460
Out here you always have to be well-prepared.
325
00:18:50,460 --> 00:18:53,880
The slightest technical problem in this remote region
326
00:18:53,880 --> 00:18:55,730
can be life-threatening.
327
00:18:55,730 --> 00:18:59,079
Today, Andy is flying with his daughter Shan.
328
00:18:59,079 --> 00:19:02,260
He taught her to fly because in the Williams family
329
00:19:02,260 --> 00:19:03,713
flying is a tradition.
330
00:19:10,428 --> 00:19:12,450
Teaching your children to drive
331
00:19:12,450 --> 00:19:14,660
is apparently one of the most stressful things
332
00:19:14,660 --> 00:19:15,963
you could possibly do.
333
00:19:18,980 --> 00:19:19,913
No, I enjoy it.
334
00:19:21,440 --> 00:19:23,310
Andy has flown to the glaciers
335
00:19:23,310 --> 00:19:26,513
in virtually all weathers and at all times of year.
336
00:19:30,316 --> 00:19:34,443
The park's mountains are like old friends to him.
337
00:19:35,477 --> 00:19:38,290
And he's had plenty of opportunity to observe
338
00:19:38,290 --> 00:19:40,733
how they are changing dramatically.
339
00:19:42,462 --> 00:19:45,150
The environmental changes are fairly obvious,
340
00:19:45,150 --> 00:19:47,680
the glaciers themselves are down wasting.
341
00:19:47,680 --> 00:19:49,330
And I think the larger glaciers
342
00:19:49,330 --> 00:19:51,520
are just proceeding recession.
343
00:19:51,520 --> 00:19:54,060
Typically what happens with large glaciers is that
344
00:19:54,060 --> 00:19:57,970
they will get thinner and after they've thinned down
345
00:19:57,970 --> 00:20:00,610
to a certain level, then they'll start to retreat.
346
00:20:00,610 --> 00:20:02,683
So yeah, the changes are dramatic.
347
00:20:05,405 --> 00:20:07,370
Worldwide, the glaciers
348
00:20:07,370 --> 00:20:09,353
in Kluane National Park are regarded
349
00:20:09,353 --> 00:20:12,883
as the biggest ice field, outside the polar regions.
350
00:20:17,720 --> 00:20:20,490
We have arranged to meet a German scientist.
351
00:20:20,490 --> 00:20:22,490
He and his team are using the summer
352
00:20:22,490 --> 00:20:25,120
to camp out on the glacier for several weeks,
353
00:20:25,120 --> 00:20:26,633
for research purposes.
354
00:20:30,243 --> 00:20:33,485
Christian Schoof is professor of glaciology
355
00:20:33,485 --> 00:20:36,663
at the University of British Columbia in Vancouver.
356
00:20:43,760 --> 00:20:44,950
It all started for me,
357
00:20:44,950 --> 00:20:48,190
when I took out climbing while doing my degree.
358
00:20:48,190 --> 00:20:51,302
I found the world, the mountain simply fascinating.
359
00:20:51,302 --> 00:20:55,110
And when you have emotional ties to your field of research,
360
00:20:55,110 --> 00:20:57,593
it is really helpful, it motivates you.
361
00:20:58,530 --> 00:20:59,710
I couldn't do the same thing
362
00:20:59,710 --> 00:21:02,100
on board a ship at sea, for example,
363
00:21:02,100 --> 00:21:04,050
certainly not with the same enthusiasm.
364
00:21:07,460 --> 00:21:09,620
Glaciers are his field of research,
365
00:21:09,620 --> 00:21:10,919
and they fascinate him.
366
00:21:10,919 --> 00:21:12,770
But how will they develop?
367
00:21:12,770 --> 00:21:14,460
How quickly do they melt?
368
00:21:14,460 --> 00:21:17,530
What influences their flow velocity?
369
00:21:17,530 --> 00:21:19,160
To answer these questions,
370
00:21:19,160 --> 00:21:21,110
Christian Schoof has to understand
371
00:21:21,110 --> 00:21:23,313
the behavior of the ice masses.
372
00:21:26,248 --> 00:21:30,130
Christian Schoof is convinced that we know far too little
373
00:21:30,130 --> 00:21:33,180
about change in the eternal ice.
374
00:21:33,180 --> 00:21:34,800
Today, he's going to descend
375
00:21:34,800 --> 00:21:37,453
into a glacier crevasse himself.
376
00:21:44,760 --> 00:21:48,750
A keen climber, it was this moment he looked forward
377
00:21:48,750 --> 00:21:52,510
to most of all, and he is amazed at what he sees.
378
00:22:11,720 --> 00:22:14,263
This is the highlight of his scientific career,
379
00:22:15,720 --> 00:22:18,363
but it is also a risky operation.
380
00:22:20,660 --> 00:22:22,330
The main danger with this kind of work
381
00:22:22,330 --> 00:22:25,833
is the icicles, which hang down the wall like a curtain.
382
00:22:25,833 --> 00:22:29,138
When they break off, it's wise not to be in the way.
383
00:22:29,138 --> 00:22:32,410
There's also a section of glacial ice hanging further up
384
00:22:32,410 --> 00:22:33,451
in the crevice.
385
00:22:33,451 --> 00:22:36,737
Let's just hope it doesn't come down in our direction.
386
00:22:36,737 --> 00:22:40,050
(speaking in foreign language).
387
00:22:40,050 --> 00:22:41,331
Whats more we have to be careful
388
00:22:41,331 --> 00:22:44,010
that we don't do anything to injure one another.
389
00:22:50,530 --> 00:22:52,530
The scientists are going to drill holes
390
00:22:52,530 --> 00:22:56,080
in the eternal ice and install thermometers.
391
00:22:56,080 --> 00:22:58,430
They will provide information on the development
392
00:22:58,430 --> 00:23:01,423
of the temperature in the interior of the ice.
393
00:23:04,850 --> 00:23:07,568
Today, everything is taking longer than expected.
394
00:23:07,568 --> 00:23:11,053
The team have had difficulty cabling the probes.
395
00:23:17,819 --> 00:23:21,120
When Christian Schoof finally emerges from the crevasse
396
00:23:21,120 --> 00:23:23,833
after four hours, it's almost nightfall.
397
00:23:28,397 --> 00:23:31,290
Things didn't go quite as we'd planned,
398
00:23:31,290 --> 00:23:34,670
but the cable is now in place and everything is fine.
399
00:23:34,670 --> 00:23:38,123
It was wonderful down there, but it all took a bit too long.
400
00:23:42,810 --> 00:23:44,760
It will now take the men a good hour
401
00:23:44,760 --> 00:23:46,283
to descend to the camp.
402
00:23:48,680 --> 00:23:51,750
Every summer, more and more adventurous tracking groups
403
00:23:51,750 --> 00:23:54,250
in the Kluane National Park head for the glaciers.
404
00:23:56,610 --> 00:23:58,820
Holidaying in the middle of the wilderness means,
405
00:23:58,820 --> 00:24:03,443
mountains, broad river valleys, and endless expenses.
406
00:24:08,140 --> 00:24:11,670
Ranger Emma makes regular checks to see that visitors
407
00:24:11,670 --> 00:24:13,893
are observing park regulations.
408
00:24:18,950 --> 00:24:20,780
Keeping the balance between nature
409
00:24:20,780 --> 00:24:23,040
and humans is also a major challenge
410
00:24:23,040 --> 00:24:24,176
for us here in the park.
411
00:24:24,176 --> 00:24:27,210
On the one hand of course, we want people to come
412
00:24:27,210 --> 00:24:29,140
and experience Kluane,
413
00:24:29,140 --> 00:24:32,630
but obviously the higher the number of people who come here,
414
00:24:32,630 --> 00:24:34,690
the greater the pressure on nature,
415
00:24:34,690 --> 00:24:36,600
and that makes it more difficult
416
00:24:36,600 --> 00:24:38,500
to maintain the equilibrium.
417
00:24:38,500 --> 00:24:40,953
It will always be a balancing act.
418
00:24:45,790 --> 00:24:48,853
Hello, bonjuor, good morning.
419
00:24:50,630 --> 00:24:51,463
Hello?
420
00:24:56,520 --> 00:24:59,750
Here we have a classic situation.
421
00:24:59,750 --> 00:25:03,310
No one around, too many people on the camp site,
422
00:25:03,310 --> 00:25:07,620
scraps of food lying around, and the fire is still burning,
423
00:25:07,620 --> 00:25:09,223
not exactly what we want.
424
00:25:10,520 --> 00:25:12,590
It turns out though that other campers
425
00:25:12,590 --> 00:25:14,910
have agreed to keep an eye on the smoldering fire.
426
00:25:14,910 --> 00:25:16,660
You guys are close by.
427
00:25:16,660 --> 00:25:18,530
If you're staying by, then that's fine.
428
00:25:18,530 --> 00:25:20,823
Okay.
Okay.
429
00:25:22,510 --> 00:25:25,090
Anyone who plans to head off for a few days,
430
00:25:25,090 --> 00:25:27,640
and people come here from all over the world,
431
00:25:27,640 --> 00:25:31,130
first has to register with the park administration.
432
00:25:31,130 --> 00:25:34,580
What sounds like bureaucracy, is a safety measure.
433
00:25:34,580 --> 00:25:38,507
Emma likes to have a word with visitors before they set out.
434
00:25:38,507 --> 00:25:40,637
You're not getting away, are you?
435
00:25:40,637 --> 00:25:43,315
'Cause you're trying really hard, get going.
436
00:25:43,315 --> 00:25:45,663
Oh, that's like a heavy pack.
437
00:25:47,273 --> 00:25:48,830
Not as heavy as mine.
438
00:25:48,830 --> 00:25:50,430
Yeah, right.
439
00:25:50,430 --> 00:25:51,406
Be safe on the Creek crossings.
440
00:25:51,406 --> 00:25:54,180
I'm not sure how they will be,
441
00:25:54,180 --> 00:25:56,700
but you've probably heard that the water levels go up
442
00:25:56,700 --> 00:25:58,560
and down for a bit with temperature.
443
00:25:58,560 --> 00:26:01,350
So just take that seriously.
444
00:26:01,350 --> 00:26:03,244
You have footwear for going across the Creek?
445
00:26:03,244 --> 00:26:04,920
Yeah, either sandles...
446
00:26:04,920 --> 00:26:07,298
Yeah, anything is better than going bare feet.
447
00:26:07,298 --> 00:26:09,100
Okay, can you take a group photo of us,
448
00:26:09,100 --> 00:26:10,860
that would be wonderful.
449
00:26:10,860 --> 00:26:13,510
Okay, let me go back a little bit more.
450
00:26:13,510 --> 00:26:18,123
They're all excited, what awaits them?
451
00:26:19,460 --> 00:26:20,750
They looked well prepared,
452
00:26:20,750 --> 00:26:23,323
but there are certain risks here that perhaps don't exist
453
00:26:23,323 --> 00:26:26,116
in places where visitors to the park come from.
454
00:26:26,116 --> 00:26:29,330
There are of course, wild animals here, mainly bears,
455
00:26:29,330 --> 00:26:30,615
Grizzlies and black bears.
456
00:26:30,615 --> 00:26:33,560
Sometimes moose can also be a bit aggressive.
457
00:26:33,560 --> 00:26:35,677
They also need to be taken seriously.
458
00:26:35,677 --> 00:26:37,700
And then there is the simple fact
459
00:26:37,700 --> 00:26:39,529
that this is really a wilderness.
460
00:26:39,529 --> 00:26:41,029
When you go off hiking somewhere,
461
00:26:41,029 --> 00:26:42,825
you have to remember that you won't have
462
00:26:42,825 --> 00:26:46,053
any mobile phone connection for several days.
463
00:26:48,830 --> 00:26:51,630
White Horse is the capital of the Yukon.
464
00:26:51,630 --> 00:26:54,500
It is also the supply point for the park.
465
00:26:54,500 --> 00:26:56,650
For Thor, our bush pilot,
466
00:26:56,650 --> 00:26:58,960
summer is the busiest time of year.
467
00:26:58,960 --> 00:27:01,670
Today he has to take material to a gold mine
468
00:27:01,670 --> 00:27:04,290
on the edge of the Kluane National Park.
469
00:27:04,290 --> 00:27:06,693
Flying time, two hours.
470
00:27:11,180 --> 00:27:12,590
The runner way from White Horse
471
00:27:12,590 --> 00:27:15,053
to a goldmine at Squigy Creek,
472
00:27:16,170 --> 00:27:19,790
they urgently need certain spare parts for their machines.
473
00:27:19,790 --> 00:27:22,420
It's really difficult to get there by road.
474
00:27:22,420 --> 00:27:25,918
So basically they have to be supplied by air.
475
00:27:25,918 --> 00:27:30,080
(speaking foreign language)
476
00:27:30,080 --> 00:27:33,080
Time and again, the siren call of gold
477
00:27:33,080 --> 00:27:35,543
rings out from Canada's wilderness.
478
00:27:37,720 --> 00:27:39,057
Many gold mines in the Yukon
479
00:27:39,057 --> 00:27:42,016
are still in operation even today.
480
00:27:42,016 --> 00:27:45,380
Thor flies to this small mine, halfway to Dawson City
481
00:27:45,380 --> 00:27:47,190
several times a year.
482
00:27:47,190 --> 00:27:51,210
He knows it well but even so, it still fascinates him.
483
00:27:51,210 --> 00:27:53,690
It didn't take us long to find out why.
484
00:27:53,690 --> 00:27:56,300
A handful of fortune seekers here still believe
485
00:27:56,300 --> 00:27:57,653
in the promise of gold.
486
00:28:01,560 --> 00:28:04,743
I got some milk, some tobacco for Jason.
487
00:28:05,630 --> 00:28:06,463
Thank you.
488
00:28:10,480 --> 00:28:13,220
So does a woman with two small children.
489
00:28:13,220 --> 00:28:16,653
The family come from New Zealand and Thor knows them well.
490
00:28:22,210 --> 00:28:26,770
Caroline finds family life as a gold prospector so exciting.
491
00:28:26,770 --> 00:28:29,610
The life here is brilliant like where you pick mushrooms
492
00:28:29,610 --> 00:28:33,000
and berries and we're mining.
493
00:28:33,000 --> 00:28:34,810
And we live in the bush for four months,
494
00:28:34,810 --> 00:28:36,940
five months then that's good.
495
00:28:36,940 --> 00:28:39,517
Daniel is two and he first came out here
496
00:28:39,517 --> 00:28:41,188
when he was five weeks old.
497
00:28:41,188 --> 00:28:44,280
And George is five months old,
498
00:28:44,280 --> 00:28:46,600
he came out here when he was one month old.
499
00:28:46,600 --> 00:28:47,593
It's a good life.
500
00:28:51,320 --> 00:28:52,840
The family's prospecting
501
00:28:52,840 --> 00:28:56,390
suddenly came to a halt when the machine broke down.
502
00:28:56,390 --> 00:29:00,080
So Nick who is least the mine, has been trying for days
503
00:29:00,080 --> 00:29:02,410
to repair it, but to no avail.
504
00:29:02,410 --> 00:29:04,050
Hey, sorry how's going?
505
00:29:04,050 --> 00:29:06,060
Well, as you can see, problems...
506
00:29:06,060 --> 00:29:09,069
Problems in a big machinery.
507
00:29:09,069 --> 00:29:11,250
How's your summer going?
508
00:29:11,250 --> 00:29:13,388
Oh, it's been good, really nice summer, very hot but...
509
00:29:13,388 --> 00:29:14,221
Yeah, pretty hot day.
510
00:29:14,221 --> 00:29:16,010
Do you wanted to see some gold?
511
00:29:16,010 --> 00:29:16,843
Yeah.
512
00:29:16,843 --> 00:29:19,080
A little bit, just a few nuggets we picked out
513
00:29:19,080 --> 00:29:20,038
of a sluice box.
514
00:29:20,038 --> 00:29:21,553
Wow, that's heavy.
515
00:29:23,531 --> 00:29:25,930
That's about 10 ounces.
10 ounces.
516
00:29:25,930 --> 00:29:27,430
300 grams.
517
00:29:27,430 --> 00:29:28,817
When I first came to Yukon,
518
00:29:28,817 --> 00:29:31,220
the only thing I knew is Jack London books, right?
519
00:29:31,220 --> 00:29:33,230
So Yukon was the place.
520
00:29:33,230 --> 00:29:35,130
So when I came here, I figured...
521
00:29:36,440 --> 00:29:38,150
I didn't wanna work nine to five, you know,
522
00:29:38,150 --> 00:29:39,040
for it was still my days.
523
00:29:39,040 --> 00:29:41,784
So I figured into something seasonal, and originally
524
00:29:41,784 --> 00:29:45,220
I wanted to do like fishing lodge or whatever.
525
00:29:45,220 --> 00:29:48,030
I never dreamed I could do something like this.
526
00:29:48,030 --> 00:29:50,320
But you know, one thing led to another,
527
00:29:50,320 --> 00:29:51,670
and slowly I got into it.
528
00:29:51,670 --> 00:29:54,520
Took me a long time, but it's good life,
529
00:29:54,520 --> 00:29:56,548
you know a good lifestyle,
530
00:29:56,548 --> 00:29:59,113
different but I got into so, which is great.
531
00:29:59,113 --> 00:30:01,563
I can go New Zealand or wherever.
532
00:30:03,520 --> 00:30:05,507
The family drive back to their summer cabin.
533
00:30:05,507 --> 00:30:07,093
The children are hungry.
534
00:30:11,600 --> 00:30:13,120
Thor has to head off as well,
535
00:30:13,120 --> 00:30:14,583
he can't even stay for an hour.
536
00:30:14,583 --> 00:30:16,883
He wants to be back before dark.
537
00:30:25,520 --> 00:30:27,420
Eva has a visitor from Europe.
538
00:30:27,420 --> 00:30:29,980
Her niece Siena, from Switzerland,
539
00:30:29,980 --> 00:30:32,223
wants to get to know life in the wilderness.
540
00:30:38,370 --> 00:30:40,800
Today canoeing is on the agenda.
541
00:30:40,800 --> 00:30:43,393
The two plan to catch their evening meal.
542
00:30:48,914 --> 00:30:50,280
Sometimes is not easy.
543
00:30:50,280 --> 00:30:53,610
She's only 16 and isn't used to being alone,
544
00:30:53,610 --> 00:30:56,160
but it's really enjoyable having her here
545
00:30:56,160 --> 00:30:59,090
and giving her an insight into a life that is totally
546
00:30:59,090 --> 00:31:01,705
different from what she is used to in Europe.
547
00:31:01,705 --> 00:31:04,020
With school and other things there
548
00:31:04,020 --> 00:31:05,693
that are regarded as important.
549
00:31:06,560 --> 00:31:09,880
It's good for her to experience that you can still lead
550
00:31:09,880 --> 00:31:11,730
a different kind of life.
551
00:31:11,730 --> 00:31:14,970
(speaking foreign language).
552
00:31:14,970 --> 00:31:17,290
Yeah, okay.
553
00:31:17,290 --> 00:31:19,830
Okay, you can now let him go
554
00:31:19,830 --> 00:31:21,943
so he can jump out when he wants.
555
00:31:26,022 --> 00:31:28,260
Have you seen how the fish leap?
556
00:31:28,260 --> 00:31:31,453
Why don't you try casting your line on this side?
557
00:31:31,453 --> 00:31:35,286
(speaking foreign language)
558
00:31:39,883 --> 00:31:42,620
There have always been fish in abundance here.
559
00:31:42,620 --> 00:31:46,120
The name Kluane, comes from the First Nation language
560
00:31:46,120 --> 00:31:49,320
and means, Whitefish country.
561
00:31:49,320 --> 00:31:51,963
But today, the two women are out of luck.
562
00:31:53,020 --> 00:31:55,653
As if that weren't enough, it started to rain.
563
00:31:56,970 --> 00:32:01,220
(speaking in foreign language ).
564
00:32:03,960 --> 00:32:06,060
I think we'd better head back to the shore
565
00:32:06,060 --> 00:32:07,263
and get our jackets.
566
00:32:10,895 --> 00:32:14,978
(speaking in foreign language)
567
00:32:16,400 --> 00:32:17,974
Construction of the Alaska Highway
568
00:32:17,974 --> 00:32:20,880
brought not only settlers to the region,
569
00:32:20,880 --> 00:32:22,573
it also brought poachers.
570
00:32:26,050 --> 00:32:29,830
The government took drastic steps against poaching.
571
00:32:29,830 --> 00:32:32,370
All the inhabitants had their ancient hunting
572
00:32:32,370 --> 00:32:34,240
and fishing rights revoked,
573
00:32:34,240 --> 00:32:36,437
including the members of the First Nation.
574
00:32:36,437 --> 00:32:39,073
For them, it was a tragic decision.
575
00:32:41,270 --> 00:32:44,810
Today, we have come to meet Karrie and her grandmother.
576
00:32:44,810 --> 00:32:47,760
I come to visit, help you today
577
00:32:47,760 --> 00:32:49,426
with your hide.
Yeah.
578
00:32:49,426 --> 00:32:51,310
When did you get this moose?
579
00:32:51,310 --> 00:32:53,220
I got this moose last spring.
580
00:32:53,220 --> 00:32:55,000
Okay, and you shoot it.
581
00:32:55,000 --> 00:32:57,600
Yeah, I shot it, Michelle.
582
00:32:57,600 --> 00:32:59,210
Where was that at?
583
00:32:59,210 --> 00:33:01,310
Just down the road, down...
584
00:33:03,600 --> 00:33:06,260
Provide lots of meat.
Yeah.
585
00:33:06,260 --> 00:33:07,183
Oh, that's good.
586
00:33:09,630 --> 00:33:11,363
Scraping it?
Yes.
587
00:33:13,620 --> 00:33:16,180
The region covered by the present day park,
588
00:33:16,180 --> 00:33:19,713
has always been the traditional home of the Ishihic people.
589
00:33:21,410 --> 00:33:22,600
It is important to Karrie,
590
00:33:22,600 --> 00:33:26,200
to learn all about their ancient skills and customs.
591
00:33:26,200 --> 00:33:28,670
Her grandmother is also going to teach Karrie
592
00:33:28,670 --> 00:33:30,515
the Indian art of beading.
593
00:33:30,515 --> 00:33:33,690
The knowledge she has can't be found in books.
594
00:33:33,690 --> 00:33:35,063
It has to be handed down.
595
00:33:37,567 --> 00:33:39,443
And then maybe...
29.
596
00:33:40,510 --> 00:33:42,660
Well just wait this way.
This is good.
597
00:33:43,570 --> 00:33:44,513
Okay.
598
00:33:47,970 --> 00:33:52,540
I teach my grandchildren what my mom taught me.
599
00:33:52,540 --> 00:33:56,120
I have 10 grandchildren, two great grandchildren,
600
00:33:56,120 --> 00:34:01,120
and I'm looking forward to teach them more traditional life,
601
00:34:01,840 --> 00:34:06,840
everything not only 10 and how to harvest some berries,
602
00:34:07,470 --> 00:34:12,470
and make some dry meat when we get moose.
603
00:34:12,780 --> 00:34:15,100
All these things I want them to learn
604
00:34:15,100 --> 00:34:18,113
so they can carry on their tradition.
605
00:34:22,320 --> 00:34:25,170
Karrie learns quickly, and she is a realist.
606
00:34:26,258 --> 00:34:27,863
That's very good.
607
00:34:29,890 --> 00:34:32,373
Maybe they'll end up in a museum one day.
608
00:34:37,770 --> 00:34:39,050
The snow-covered mountains
609
00:34:39,050 --> 00:34:40,760
of the Kluane National Park,
610
00:34:40,760 --> 00:34:42,793
are still guarding their secrets.
611
00:34:43,790 --> 00:34:45,900
In the morning after a cold night
612
00:34:45,900 --> 00:34:49,830
on the edge of the glacier, Christian Schoof and his team
613
00:34:49,830 --> 00:34:52,770
first have to warm up in the supply tent.
614
00:34:52,770 --> 00:34:55,950
Up here, even in summer, the temperature fluctuates
615
00:34:55,950 --> 00:35:00,780
between plus 15 degrees during the day and minus 15 at night
616
00:35:00,780 --> 00:35:04,713
and up to 30 centimeters of new snow can fall at any time.
617
00:35:06,000 --> 00:35:09,180
The first thing Christian Schoof wants to do today,
618
00:35:09,180 --> 00:35:11,853
is check the data from the new instruments.
619
00:35:15,560 --> 00:35:17,362
This is the glacier we're working on.
620
00:35:17,362 --> 00:35:21,350
The screen shows that we have now drilled around 150 holes
621
00:35:21,350 --> 00:35:22,650
in the glacier.
622
00:35:22,650 --> 00:35:26,360
Unfortunately, the instruments don't survive for very long.
623
00:35:26,360 --> 00:35:29,730
So out of the 150 holes we've drilled,
624
00:35:29,730 --> 00:35:33,230
only about 60 are currently active.
625
00:35:33,230 --> 00:35:35,210
Since we are restricted in the number of holes
626
00:35:35,210 --> 00:35:38,620
we can drill per season, this makes it very hard
627
00:35:38,620 --> 00:35:40,715
to ever get a complete picture.
628
00:35:40,715 --> 00:35:45,380
(speaking foreign language).
629
00:35:45,380 --> 00:35:46,750
In a year's time,
630
00:35:46,750 --> 00:35:50,603
a good proportion of the sensors might no longer be working.
631
00:35:54,820 --> 00:35:57,230
In places where there is no human habitation
632
00:35:57,230 --> 00:36:00,593
far and wide, nature seems to be totally intact.
633
00:36:01,538 --> 00:36:05,180
But we have long known that when these glaciers melt,
634
00:36:05,180 --> 00:36:07,623
this landscape too will be just a memory.
635
00:36:15,000 --> 00:36:19,640
Then minerals will be exposed that are already coveted.
636
00:36:19,640 --> 00:36:22,090
And in Canada, industrial giants
637
00:36:22,090 --> 00:36:25,513
have thwarted conservation projects, time and again.
638
00:36:26,860 --> 00:36:28,070
(speaking in foreign language)
639
00:36:28,070 --> 00:36:29,020
There are widespread
640
00:36:29,020 --> 00:36:30,197
mineral deposits here,
641
00:36:30,197 --> 00:36:32,600
which would most certainly be exploited
642
00:36:32,600 --> 00:36:35,100
if the national park didn't exist.
643
00:36:35,100 --> 00:36:38,028
This of course is a contentious political issue
644
00:36:38,028 --> 00:36:39,920
that if you believe that this landscape
645
00:36:39,920 --> 00:36:42,300
is worth protecting and preserving,
646
00:36:42,300 --> 00:36:45,671
a national park is most definitely important.
647
00:36:45,671 --> 00:36:49,838
(speaking in foreign language).
648
00:36:50,730 --> 00:36:52,630
Thor Fender too is only too aware
649
00:36:52,630 --> 00:36:54,610
of this threat to the park.
650
00:36:54,610 --> 00:36:56,649
He often flies to the golden silver mines
651
00:36:56,649 --> 00:37:01,423
on the edge of the Kluane.
652
00:37:02,470 --> 00:37:04,560
Through flying I've become familiar
653
00:37:04,560 --> 00:37:08,820
with the unadulterated beauty of Kluane National Park,
654
00:37:08,820 --> 00:37:11,150
but I've also seen the destructive power
655
00:37:11,150 --> 00:37:13,660
of the raw materials industry.
656
00:37:13,660 --> 00:37:16,710
And the raw materials industry has already obtained
657
00:37:16,710 --> 00:37:19,060
mining rights in the immediate vicinity
658
00:37:19,060 --> 00:37:20,740
of the national park.
659
00:37:20,740 --> 00:37:23,190
I can only hope that the governments of the future
660
00:37:23,190 --> 00:37:27,023
will be able to resist any further advances into the park.
661
00:37:30,410 --> 00:37:32,490
Thor's season as a pilot already comes
662
00:37:32,490 --> 00:37:34,480
to an end in late summer.
663
00:37:34,480 --> 00:37:36,650
This is his last flight of the year.
664
00:37:36,650 --> 00:37:39,253
In winter he'll again be working as an architect.
665
00:37:42,430 --> 00:37:44,170
Planes up here in the North now have
666
00:37:44,170 --> 00:37:45,690
to be stored in hangars.
667
00:37:52,100 --> 00:37:53,960
Putting his aircraft away for the winter,
668
00:37:53,960 --> 00:37:56,993
always makes bush pilot, Andy, feel a bit wistful.
669
00:38:00,010 --> 00:38:02,120
Imagine flying is a...
670
00:38:02,120 --> 00:38:05,330
It's a particular kind of experience
671
00:38:05,330 --> 00:38:06,580
and not many people do it,
672
00:38:06,580 --> 00:38:11,160
it's certainly in the high maintenance on the glaciers.
673
00:38:11,160 --> 00:38:13,950
And I think you've been back in the country,
674
00:38:13,950 --> 00:38:17,860
you've seen how vast it is,
675
00:38:17,860 --> 00:38:20,367
and how changeable it is from day to day.
676
00:38:20,367 --> 00:38:22,440
And I think that sort of challenge
677
00:38:22,440 --> 00:38:24,283
for a pilot is very interesting.
678
00:38:32,660 --> 00:38:34,150
Autumn in Kluane National Park
679
00:38:34,150 --> 00:38:36,353
is short and beautiful.
680
00:38:37,570 --> 00:38:41,963
Often September already sees the first frosts arrive.
681
00:38:51,450 --> 00:38:54,593
Near Haines Junction, this is also the hunting season.
682
00:38:59,050 --> 00:39:03,040
Bears now eat as much as they can, it's their last chance.
683
00:39:03,040 --> 00:39:05,810
Soon snow and ice will return to the North
684
00:39:05,810 --> 00:39:09,453
and the bears will hibernate and silence will reign.
685
00:39:16,540 --> 00:39:18,760
Autumn is once again an important season
686
00:39:18,760 --> 00:39:20,950
for First Nation people.
687
00:39:20,950 --> 00:39:22,340
Karrie is out and about
688
00:39:22,340 --> 00:39:25,790
with her brother, Lance and her son, Kassius.
689
00:39:25,790 --> 00:39:28,413
Together, they're roaming the park in such of game.
690
00:39:36,242 --> 00:39:38,022
I'm Champion Ejac and we have a boundary
691
00:39:38,022 --> 00:39:41,400
of traditional territory that we're allowed to hunt
692
00:39:41,400 --> 00:39:43,090
for a subsistence harvesting.
693
00:39:43,090 --> 00:39:45,840
So we try to keep up with our traditions
694
00:39:45,840 --> 00:39:47,800
and especially for, you know,
695
00:39:47,800 --> 00:39:51,930
to keep our freezer full of meat for the winter.
696
00:39:51,930 --> 00:39:55,050
But for my grandfather, you know is definitely different.
697
00:39:55,050 --> 00:39:56,280
It was either...
698
00:39:57,220 --> 00:40:00,570
Sometimes some situations was life or death,
699
00:40:00,570 --> 00:40:02,670
depending on if you caught a moose or not.
700
00:40:05,120 --> 00:40:06,703
It was not until 2008
701
00:40:06,703 --> 00:40:10,120
that the Canadian government officially apologized
702
00:40:10,120 --> 00:40:12,920
to the First Nations and revoked laws,
703
00:40:12,920 --> 00:40:14,963
which destroyed ancient knowledge.
704
00:40:18,050 --> 00:40:20,970
For the first time, Kassius is seeing the classic way
705
00:40:20,970 --> 00:40:22,253
to set traps.
706
00:40:23,800 --> 00:40:27,310
Karrie wants her child to be able to live independently
707
00:40:27,310 --> 00:40:30,940
and in close touch with nature in modern day Canada.
708
00:40:30,940 --> 00:40:33,600
Most children don't get to experience
709
00:40:33,600 --> 00:40:34,800
these things anymore.
710
00:40:34,800 --> 00:40:38,240
You know, there is a whole different world
711
00:40:38,240 --> 00:40:41,300
out there right now and the use of traditional food
712
00:40:41,300 --> 00:40:43,860
ain't needed like it used to be.
713
00:40:43,860 --> 00:40:47,680
So yeah, I'm just bringing him out and exposing him to it.
714
00:40:47,680 --> 00:40:51,410
It is I think just good for him just to, you know,
715
00:40:51,410 --> 00:40:56,410
keep in mind that someday he might need to use it as a skill
716
00:40:57,120 --> 00:41:01,573
for actually food instead of just to be there.
717
00:41:03,090 --> 00:41:04,940
Karrie's speaks for a new generation
718
00:41:04,940 --> 00:41:06,500
of the First Nations,
719
00:41:06,500 --> 00:41:09,260
one committed to the traditions of their parents,
720
00:41:09,260 --> 00:41:11,163
and to Canada's Western culture.
721
00:41:12,174 --> 00:41:14,360
When winter comes to Kluane,
722
00:41:14,360 --> 00:41:17,233
the temperature quickly drops to well below freezing.
723
00:41:27,520 --> 00:41:30,970
Eva wanted to have got a lot further with her house,
724
00:41:30,970 --> 00:41:33,380
but as she well knows here in the Yukon
725
00:41:33,380 --> 00:41:35,123
clocks tick differently.
726
00:41:39,340 --> 00:41:40,908
I'm sitting in what will be my parlor
727
00:41:40,908 --> 00:41:43,450
and looking forward to furnishing it.
728
00:41:43,450 --> 00:41:46,203
I want to do as much as possible myself.
729
00:41:51,920 --> 00:41:52,830
But for Eva too,
730
00:41:52,830 --> 00:41:55,400
winter is a special time of year.
731
00:41:55,400 --> 00:41:58,050
It's now that a few people who live in the North,
732
00:41:58,050 --> 00:41:59,323
come closer together.
733
00:42:05,140 --> 00:42:07,110
And we won't forget them.
734
00:42:07,110 --> 00:42:12,030
All their love of their park, their dreams, their concerns,
735
00:42:12,030 --> 00:42:13,503
and their visions.
736
00:42:17,550 --> 00:42:20,800
I've worked in Kluane National Park for 40 years.
737
00:42:20,800 --> 00:42:23,760
It's an area that is very important to me,
738
00:42:23,760 --> 00:42:27,143
my family and I hope for my extended family.
739
00:42:32,530 --> 00:42:33,898
Without protection, this landscape
740
00:42:33,898 --> 00:42:36,673
would no longer exist the way it is.
741
00:42:38,850 --> 00:42:42,177
We usually just move forward, keeping it the way it is
742
00:42:42,177 --> 00:42:44,523
for the next generation to come and see.
743
00:42:48,180 --> 00:42:50,270
I want it to stay the way it has done
744
00:42:50,270 --> 00:42:51,510
for the last 20 years.
745
00:42:51,510 --> 00:42:55,180
I want this region to remain just as peaceful
746
00:42:55,180 --> 00:42:57,483
because it's a wonderful place.
58256
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