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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,323 --> 00:00:01,366 (intense orchestral music) 2 00:00:01,366 --> 00:00:04,230 There are still places so wild and pristine, 3 00:00:04,230 --> 00:00:06,160 many of us dream of experiencing them 4 00:00:06,160 --> 00:00:08,024 just once in our lives. 5 00:00:08,024 --> 00:00:11,607 (intense orchestral music) 6 00:00:14,370 --> 00:00:16,080 Places where national parks 7 00:00:16,080 --> 00:00:19,356 protect and preserve the Earth's rugged beauty. 8 00:00:19,356 --> 00:00:22,939 (intense orchestral music) 9 00:00:25,010 --> 00:00:28,040 140 years ago in Canada's far west, 10 00:00:28,040 --> 00:00:31,490 one of the world's first nature reserves was established. 11 00:00:31,490 --> 00:00:33,610 Today, Banff National Park 12 00:00:33,610 --> 00:00:37,054 is one of the last accessible paradises. 13 00:00:37,054 --> 00:00:41,110 (intense orchestral music) 14 00:00:41,110 --> 00:00:42,850 We will meet people who live and work 15 00:00:42,850 --> 00:00:44,353 in this unique landscape, 16 00:00:45,270 --> 00:00:46,850 who have left everything behind 17 00:00:46,850 --> 00:00:48,680 to be in harmony with nature 18 00:00:48,680 --> 00:00:50,352 and protect it. 19 00:00:50,352 --> 00:00:53,900 (intense orchestral music) 20 00:00:53,900 --> 00:00:56,090 We will spend a whole year with them 21 00:00:56,090 --> 00:00:57,970 and with them we will discover 22 00:00:57,970 --> 00:01:00,210 the adventure of a day-to-day life 23 00:01:00,210 --> 00:01:02,807 visitors to the park never see. 24 00:01:02,807 --> 00:01:06,390 (intense orchestral music) 25 00:01:15,070 --> 00:01:17,487 (calm music) 26 00:01:19,778 --> 00:01:21,330 What a dream. 27 00:01:21,330 --> 00:01:25,070 Experiencing the Canadian winter on snowshoes, 28 00:01:25,070 --> 00:01:28,210 panned with it, a magnificent mountain world 29 00:01:28,210 --> 00:01:30,893 which captivates so many, forever. 30 00:01:32,752 --> 00:01:35,480 On the trail of 19th century pioneers 31 00:01:35,480 --> 00:01:37,550 at a temperature of 30 below, 32 00:01:37,550 --> 00:01:40,000 we trek along Two Jack Lake. 33 00:01:40,000 --> 00:01:42,113 Our guide is a young German woman. 34 00:01:42,966 --> 00:01:43,799 (speaks in foreign language) 35 00:01:43,799 --> 00:01:45,410 My first visit to the Rockies 36 00:01:45,410 --> 00:01:47,580 was an incredible experience. 37 00:01:47,580 --> 00:01:49,060 Nature here is wonderful 38 00:01:49,060 --> 00:01:52,770 and the sheer vastness of the landscape is breathtaking. 39 00:01:52,770 --> 00:01:54,220 Even then I decided 40 00:01:54,220 --> 00:01:56,620 that this is where I would like to live one day. 41 00:01:59,193 --> 00:02:00,950 Hika came here from Thuringia 42 00:02:00,950 --> 00:02:03,740 in Eastern Germany in 2008. 43 00:02:03,740 --> 00:02:07,033 She soon felt totally at home in the mountains around Banff. 44 00:02:09,370 --> 00:02:10,620 What I really love in winter 45 00:02:10,620 --> 00:02:13,780 is that when you're out in nature here, it's so peaceful, 46 00:02:13,780 --> 00:02:15,640 as if everything was sleeping. 47 00:02:15,640 --> 00:02:17,630 There is not a soul to be seen. 48 00:02:17,630 --> 00:02:19,010 You're completely alone. 49 00:02:19,010 --> 00:02:22,240 You can enjoy nature and be in tune with yourself 50 00:02:24,580 --> 00:02:26,160 But is that really possible 51 00:02:26,160 --> 00:02:29,140 in one of the world's most popular national parks 52 00:02:29,140 --> 00:02:31,460 where in winter alone, thousands come 53 00:02:31,460 --> 00:02:33,483 in search of rest and relaxation? 54 00:02:35,480 --> 00:02:36,880 It is indeed. 55 00:02:36,880 --> 00:02:39,590 Thanks to the efforts of the park's rangers. 56 00:02:39,590 --> 00:02:41,704 We've arranged to meet one of them. 57 00:02:41,704 --> 00:02:44,121 (calm music) 58 00:02:47,000 --> 00:02:49,440 Ranger Jesse heads the most exciting 59 00:02:49,440 --> 00:02:51,263 bear projects in the park. 60 00:02:52,290 --> 00:02:56,010 Today he is out and about early with his colleague, Anne 61 00:02:56,010 --> 00:02:58,960 So I think the carcass is just a couple 100 meters along. 62 00:03:00,434 --> 00:03:02,000 Okay. 63 00:03:02,000 --> 00:03:04,400 A few days ago a deer fell through the ice 64 00:03:04,400 --> 00:03:06,273 on the Bow River and drowned. 65 00:03:07,653 --> 00:03:09,253 I'm not seeing ravens. 66 00:03:10,970 --> 00:03:13,520 Soon afterwards, a grizzly set about 67 00:03:13,520 --> 00:03:15,620 his unexpected meal. 68 00:03:15,620 --> 00:03:17,830 The bear is no stranger to Jesse. 69 00:03:17,830 --> 00:03:21,070 10 years ago, he fitted the animal with a transmitter 70 00:03:21,070 --> 00:03:23,883 and gave it the number 122. 71 00:03:25,320 --> 00:03:28,580 When you're dealing with a 350-kilogram male bear, 72 00:03:28,580 --> 00:03:30,203 caution is called for. 73 00:03:31,980 --> 00:03:35,900 We're checking to see if grizzly bear 122 is in the area 74 00:03:35,900 --> 00:03:39,200 before we go and investigate the carcass. 75 00:03:39,200 --> 00:03:41,180 Because the last thing we wanna do 76 00:03:41,180 --> 00:03:43,070 is come upon the carcass 77 00:03:43,070 --> 00:03:45,430 and have a grizzly bear there and defend it. 78 00:03:45,430 --> 00:03:47,160 So, that's dangerous for us 79 00:03:47,160 --> 00:03:48,770 and also dangerous for the bear. 80 00:03:48,770 --> 00:03:51,650 So if we can just ensure and check 81 00:03:51,650 --> 00:03:53,940 to see that he's totally moved out of the area 82 00:03:53,940 --> 00:03:55,230 before we visit the carcass 83 00:03:55,230 --> 00:03:57,163 then it's much safer for us. 84 00:03:58,840 --> 00:04:00,517 The ice might be okay out here, 85 00:04:00,517 --> 00:04:02,090 it's a little bit slushy. 86 00:04:02,090 --> 00:04:05,410 We might be better just right along the edge. 87 00:04:05,410 --> 00:04:06,300 Even though the ice 88 00:04:06,300 --> 00:04:07,760 bore the weight of the bear, 89 00:04:07,760 --> 00:04:10,293 in some places, it is already brittle. 90 00:04:11,360 --> 00:04:14,060 This looks like the bear's tracks right in the snow. 91 00:04:14,960 --> 00:04:15,793 Got windblown. 92 00:04:19,050 --> 00:04:21,460 The bear with number 122 93 00:04:21,460 --> 00:04:23,300 is known to be very aggressive. 94 00:04:23,300 --> 00:04:26,943 So ranger Anne checks to see if it is still in the valley. 95 00:04:28,950 --> 00:04:31,230 So now I'm listening for the radio signal 96 00:04:31,230 --> 00:04:32,920 of grizzly bear 122 97 00:04:35,890 --> 00:04:38,770 which sounds like a beep, beep beep if he's here 98 00:04:38,770 --> 00:04:40,244 but I don't hear him. 99 00:04:40,244 --> 00:04:42,994 (static buzzing) 100 00:04:44,860 --> 00:04:46,610 Let's check in the other direction. 101 00:04:47,660 --> 00:04:49,560 It doesn't sound like he's here today. 102 00:04:52,030 --> 00:04:54,430 Jesse grew up on Canada's west coast. 103 00:04:54,430 --> 00:04:58,063 He studied biology and came to Banff in his early 20s. 104 00:04:59,510 --> 00:05:00,850 There's not many places in the world 105 00:05:00,850 --> 00:05:04,130 where you have as many carnivores like wolverine, 106 00:05:04,130 --> 00:05:05,870 wolves, grizzly bear, lynx, 107 00:05:05,870 --> 00:05:10,800 fox, bobcat that live in this area. 108 00:05:10,800 --> 00:05:13,560 And as a wildlife biologist, 109 00:05:13,560 --> 00:05:16,663 I can't imagine a better place in the world to live. 110 00:05:18,930 --> 00:05:20,620 In the mountains of Canada, 111 00:05:20,620 --> 00:05:24,679 the big thaw in late May is often a huge spectacle. 112 00:05:24,679 --> 00:05:28,679 (lighthearted orchestral music) 113 00:05:32,070 --> 00:05:34,060 To those with a daredevil spirit, 114 00:05:34,060 --> 00:05:36,400 half frozen crystal landscapes 115 00:05:36,400 --> 00:05:38,130 present a sporting challenge 116 00:05:38,130 --> 00:05:39,773 in the form of ice climbing. 117 00:05:42,000 --> 00:05:44,440 On one of the last cold days of winter 118 00:05:44,440 --> 00:05:47,310 here at the Professor Falls on Mount Rundle, 119 00:05:47,310 --> 00:05:50,723 we find two men who love to push themselves to the limit. 120 00:05:52,653 --> 00:05:53,715 (speaks in foreign language) 121 00:05:53,715 --> 00:05:55,190 The kick is the phenomenal view 122 00:05:55,190 --> 00:05:56,073 straight down. 123 00:05:57,140 --> 00:05:58,870 The adrenaline factor is really high 124 00:05:58,870 --> 00:06:01,520 when your life is hanging from a little bit of metal. 125 00:06:05,780 --> 00:06:07,670 Jorg and Geri from Austria 126 00:06:07,670 --> 00:06:10,780 know that they live in a paradise for ice climbers, 127 00:06:10,780 --> 00:06:12,983 one, which is unique worldwide. 128 00:06:13,940 --> 00:06:17,740 Today's climb on falls which are dripping with icy water 129 00:06:17,740 --> 00:06:19,853 is not without its risks. 130 00:06:21,690 --> 00:06:25,441 But the two are determined to reach the top again. 131 00:06:25,441 --> 00:06:29,024 (intense orchestral music) 132 00:06:31,760 --> 00:06:33,440 The reward for their efforts 133 00:06:33,440 --> 00:06:36,250 is an unparalleled view of the Rockies 134 00:06:36,250 --> 00:06:39,200 towering up nearly 4,000 meters. 135 00:06:39,200 --> 00:06:41,500 This is the highest range of mountains 136 00:06:41,500 --> 00:06:44,335 on the North American continent. 137 00:06:44,335 --> 00:06:48,350 (intense orchestral music) 138 00:06:48,350 --> 00:06:50,680 And Banff National Park lies right 139 00:06:50,680 --> 00:06:52,320 in the middle of the Rockies, 140 00:06:52,320 --> 00:06:55,763 covering a good 6,500 square kilometers. 141 00:06:57,590 --> 00:07:00,260 It is not the biggest national park in the world 142 00:07:00,260 --> 00:07:03,530 but it is certainly one of the most legendary. 143 00:07:03,530 --> 00:07:05,960 On the long days in the short spring season, 144 00:07:05,960 --> 00:07:08,150 the park springs into life 145 00:07:08,150 --> 00:07:09,780 and all its inhabitants 146 00:07:09,780 --> 00:07:12,695 enjoy the first warm rays of sunshine. 147 00:07:12,695 --> 00:07:16,278 (intense orchestral music) 148 00:07:17,570 --> 00:07:20,600 Situated on the eastern edge of the national park 149 00:07:20,600 --> 00:07:22,970 is a ranch called Ya Ha Tinda 150 00:07:22,970 --> 00:07:25,540 which in the language of the Stoney Indians 151 00:07:25,540 --> 00:07:27,840 means Mountain Prairie. 152 00:07:27,840 --> 00:07:31,270 For centuries the Stoney and other tribes in the region 153 00:07:31,270 --> 00:07:34,870 came here because here in the foothills of the Rockies 154 00:07:34,870 --> 00:07:37,483 there was always grass for their horses. 155 00:07:38,350 --> 00:07:40,260 A few cowboys still live here, 156 00:07:40,260 --> 00:07:42,150 one of them is nearly two meters tall, 157 00:07:42,150 --> 00:07:45,898 wear size 47 boots, and grew up in Germany. 158 00:07:45,898 --> 00:07:48,315 (calm music) 159 00:07:52,150 --> 00:07:54,530 Holger came here in the service of science 160 00:07:54,530 --> 00:07:57,030 but first he had to learn the lore of the prairie. 161 00:07:58,301 --> 00:08:00,090 I came here with a research assignment 162 00:08:00,090 --> 00:08:02,130 as part of a master's degree. 163 00:08:02,130 --> 00:08:04,500 I found myself catapulted into a landscape 164 00:08:04,500 --> 00:08:05,830 consisting of the ranch, 165 00:08:05,830 --> 00:08:08,420 the prairie, horses, and cowboys. 166 00:08:08,420 --> 00:08:10,980 The first thing I had to do was learn to ride. 167 00:08:10,980 --> 00:08:12,700 The lads here gave me a saddle 168 00:08:12,700 --> 00:08:14,720 that was still available at the ranch. 169 00:08:14,720 --> 00:08:17,660 Unfortunately, I was much too big for it. 170 00:08:17,660 --> 00:08:20,610 So Rob, one of the Cowboys who does leather work, 171 00:08:20,610 --> 00:08:23,550 made me some stirrups, handmade. 172 00:08:23,550 --> 00:08:25,660 They are the only pair of their kind 173 00:08:25,660 --> 00:08:28,480 created for an extra long cowboy. 174 00:08:28,480 --> 00:08:30,370 So now I'm perfectly equipped 175 00:08:30,370 --> 00:08:32,249 and could do my work on horseback. 176 00:08:32,249 --> 00:08:34,411 (speaks in foreign language) 177 00:08:34,411 --> 00:08:36,828 (calm music) 178 00:08:38,470 --> 00:08:40,890 Now in spring, the focus on the farm 179 00:08:40,890 --> 00:08:42,330 is on the foals. 180 00:08:42,330 --> 00:08:45,470 After all, all the horses used by the rangers in the park 181 00:08:45,470 --> 00:08:46,620 are trained here. 182 00:08:46,620 --> 00:08:47,803 That's Rick's job. 183 00:08:50,410 --> 00:08:53,220 He was born on a farm in the Canadian Midwest 184 00:08:53,220 --> 00:08:54,870 and has known the life of a cowboy 185 00:08:54,870 --> 00:08:57,021 ever since he was a child. 186 00:08:57,021 --> 00:08:59,438 (calm music) 187 00:09:08,460 --> 00:09:09,980 When a new guy coming on 188 00:09:09,980 --> 00:09:12,270 and wanting to become a cowboy, 189 00:09:12,270 --> 00:09:14,680 first thing he needs to learn is to keep his mouth shut 190 00:09:14,680 --> 00:09:15,670 and his ears opened. 191 00:09:15,670 --> 00:09:19,360 The big thing about being a cowboy I guess is 192 00:09:19,360 --> 00:09:22,450 having that ability to learn and to listen, 193 00:09:22,450 --> 00:09:24,730 and to help each other out. 194 00:09:24,730 --> 00:09:26,810 Because it's a, you're dependent on the other guy 195 00:09:26,810 --> 00:09:27,800 if you're out there, 196 00:09:27,800 --> 00:09:28,980 whether it's on a pack trip 197 00:09:28,980 --> 00:09:32,020 or gathering horses or gathering cows. 198 00:09:32,020 --> 00:09:33,990 You're depending on the guys around you 199 00:09:33,990 --> 00:09:36,860 so if you don't have their respect and their trust, 200 00:09:36,860 --> 00:09:39,343 then you might as well go find another job. 201 00:09:40,950 --> 00:09:41,910 The work carried out 202 00:09:41,910 --> 00:09:43,730 by wildlife biologist Holger 203 00:09:43,730 --> 00:09:46,660 was commissioned by the University of Alberta. 204 00:09:46,660 --> 00:09:48,540 His research project centers 205 00:09:48,540 --> 00:09:51,760 on the migratory behavior of the wapiti, 206 00:09:51,760 --> 00:09:55,713 also known as elks in North America in Banff National Park. 207 00:09:57,010 --> 00:09:59,000 With the weather getting warmer again 208 00:09:59,000 --> 00:10:01,100 he can now explore the expanses 209 00:10:01,100 --> 00:10:03,420 of the Ya Ha Tinda high plateau 210 00:10:03,420 --> 00:10:06,763 in search of a powerful North American deer. 211 00:10:07,660 --> 00:10:11,120 Holger's wife, Antje, works as a forester on the ranch. 212 00:10:11,120 --> 00:10:13,630 Their children, Maya and Finn, were born in Canada 213 00:10:13,630 --> 00:10:14,833 and are growing up here. 214 00:10:16,010 --> 00:10:19,027 Theirs is a childhood amongst cowboys. 215 00:10:19,027 --> 00:10:20,770 (speaks in foreign language) 216 00:10:20,770 --> 00:10:23,060 The combination of work as a biologist 217 00:10:23,060 --> 00:10:25,690 and life as a cowboy is unbeatable. 218 00:10:25,690 --> 00:10:28,720 Nearly every morning, I wake up and think how lucky I am 219 00:10:28,720 --> 00:10:31,680 to be able to live here and go about my job. 220 00:10:31,680 --> 00:10:34,850 Time and again I catch myself looking around and thinking, 221 00:10:34,850 --> 00:10:36,850 it's so beautiful here. 222 00:10:36,850 --> 00:10:39,083 Actually too beautiful to be true. 223 00:10:41,535 --> 00:10:43,952 (calm music) 224 00:10:44,873 --> 00:10:46,160 The founders of the first parks 225 00:10:46,160 --> 00:10:48,550 in North America wanted to enable people 226 00:10:48,550 --> 00:10:50,460 to experience the beauty of nature 227 00:10:50,460 --> 00:10:52,093 without disturbing it. 228 00:10:54,220 --> 00:10:57,520 But today the animals need more and more protection. 229 00:10:57,520 --> 00:10:59,890 That's park ranger Jesse's job. 230 00:10:59,890 --> 00:11:03,070 (calm music) 231 00:11:03,070 --> 00:11:05,330 In springtime, he's often out and about 232 00:11:05,330 --> 00:11:08,318 very early in the morning and he's not alone. 233 00:11:08,318 --> 00:11:10,735 (calm music) 234 00:11:18,710 --> 00:11:21,890 I grew up in a bush, in the Canada bush 235 00:11:21,890 --> 00:11:24,420 and I always wanted to be a biologist. 236 00:11:24,420 --> 00:11:27,210 And about 20 years ago, 237 00:11:27,210 --> 00:11:29,180 I heard there is some wolf research happening 238 00:11:29,180 --> 00:11:30,720 and grizzly bear research happening 239 00:11:30,720 --> 00:11:33,540 in Banff National Park in the surrounding area, 240 00:11:33,540 --> 00:11:35,280 and I jumped at it 241 00:11:35,280 --> 00:11:37,943 and this is my dream job in my life. 242 00:11:40,410 --> 00:11:42,700 Jesse knows a lot about the wolves and bears 243 00:11:42,700 --> 00:11:44,633 that live in the mountain forests. 244 00:11:54,130 --> 00:11:55,400 On this particular morning, 245 00:11:55,400 --> 00:11:57,970 he's surprised in a clearing by an owl, 246 00:11:57,970 --> 00:11:59,701 normally a shy creature. 247 00:11:59,701 --> 00:12:03,480 (suspenseful music) 248 00:12:03,480 --> 00:12:06,820 That's a great gray owl, a lucky one. 249 00:12:06,820 --> 00:12:08,980 The behavior of the animals tells Jesse 250 00:12:08,980 --> 00:12:11,060 what is happening roundabout. 251 00:12:11,060 --> 00:12:13,530 It seems there's a bear nearby. 252 00:12:13,530 --> 00:12:16,810 In spring, grizzlies awake from their hibernation 253 00:12:16,810 --> 00:12:18,620 and are hungry. 254 00:12:18,620 --> 00:12:21,550 Oh, this grizzly bear's scat's pretty fresh 255 00:12:21,550 --> 00:12:24,234 I would say in the last couple days. 256 00:12:24,234 --> 00:12:26,910 You can see it's been feeding on bearberry, 257 00:12:26,910 --> 00:12:28,110 little berries in there. 258 00:12:28,970 --> 00:12:31,450 Some roots, a little bit of hedysarum roots. 259 00:12:31,450 --> 00:12:33,293 See if I can see anything here. 260 00:12:34,200 --> 00:12:37,790 I don't think it's been feeding on any animals recently. 261 00:12:37,790 --> 00:12:39,283 Yeah, been here recently. 262 00:12:46,995 --> 00:12:49,360 (uplifting orchestral music) 263 00:12:49,360 --> 00:12:51,240 The story of Banff National Park 264 00:12:51,240 --> 00:12:54,313 goes back to the great days of railway construction. 265 00:12:55,495 --> 00:12:56,580 (train whistle hoots) 266 00:12:56,580 --> 00:13:00,740 In 1888, the track reached the land of the Stoney Indians 267 00:13:00,740 --> 00:13:03,140 who used the sulfurous water that bubbled up 268 00:13:03,140 --> 00:13:05,743 in the mountains here to cure disease. 269 00:13:08,240 --> 00:13:11,320 Near Bow Valley, the Indians took three railway workers 270 00:13:11,320 --> 00:13:14,913 to the steaming hot springs which smell strongly of sulfur. 271 00:13:15,790 --> 00:13:19,238 The men suspected that this was a veritable treasure trove. 272 00:13:19,238 --> 00:13:22,160 (uplifting orchestral music) 273 00:13:22,160 --> 00:13:24,970 Railway magnate, William Van Horne, 274 00:13:24,970 --> 00:13:27,160 sensed the best deal of his life, 275 00:13:27,160 --> 00:13:30,400 bringing people from the populated east to the wild west 276 00:13:30,400 --> 00:13:32,480 on his Trans-Canadian trains 277 00:13:32,480 --> 00:13:35,600 to marvel at the stunning world of the mountains. 278 00:13:35,600 --> 00:13:38,360 Around the station at the foot of the sulfur mountain, 279 00:13:38,360 --> 00:13:40,460 a small settlement developed. 280 00:13:40,460 --> 00:13:41,950 It was named Banff, 281 00:13:41,950 --> 00:13:44,940 after the Scottish birthplace of George Stephen, 282 00:13:44,940 --> 00:13:47,989 the president of the Canadian Pacific Railway. 283 00:13:47,989 --> 00:13:52,150 (uplifting orchestral music) 284 00:13:52,150 --> 00:13:54,230 More than 130 years later, 285 00:13:54,230 --> 00:13:57,123 the animals and the town co-exist in harmony. 286 00:13:59,420 --> 00:14:03,230 The gardens of Banff it seems are just as tasty 287 00:14:03,230 --> 00:14:05,003 as the grass of the prairie. 288 00:14:06,280 --> 00:14:11,280 On June 23rd, 1887, Banff National Park was founded. 289 00:14:11,390 --> 00:14:14,300 It was the colony's first tourist resort. 290 00:14:14,300 --> 00:14:18,100 A year later, the majestic Banff Springs opened. 291 00:14:18,100 --> 00:14:22,070 At the time it was the biggest hotel in the world. 292 00:14:22,070 --> 00:14:23,610 We've arranged to meet a woman 293 00:14:23,610 --> 00:14:26,910 who has known the park and the hotel since childhood. 294 00:14:26,910 --> 00:14:31,080 Ralphine Locke experienced the opening up of the mountains 295 00:14:31,080 --> 00:14:33,190 and how the hotel changed the history 296 00:14:33,190 --> 00:14:34,712 of the little settlement. 297 00:14:34,712 --> 00:14:37,795 (lighthearted music) 298 00:14:41,240 --> 00:14:43,340 It's been a tremendous privilege. 299 00:14:43,340 --> 00:14:45,600 I always appreciate it so much 300 00:14:45,600 --> 00:14:48,610 and I was raised with a very keen sense 301 00:14:48,610 --> 00:14:51,060 of the environment and nature, 302 00:14:51,060 --> 00:14:56,060 and I really had a very wonderful life in Banff. 303 00:14:58,420 --> 00:15:02,160 Her grandparents were among the first pioneers. 304 00:15:02,160 --> 00:15:04,070 They became the first European family 305 00:15:04,070 --> 00:15:05,633 to settle in wild Banff. 306 00:15:06,522 --> 00:15:08,939 (calm music) 307 00:15:10,910 --> 00:15:13,840 My family were deeply into nature 308 00:15:13,840 --> 00:15:16,030 and my mother was a great walker. 309 00:15:16,030 --> 00:15:17,680 We'd go off and wander 310 00:15:17,680 --> 00:15:20,750 and we'd rarely see anyone. 311 00:15:20,750 --> 00:15:24,760 That was before the influx after the Second World War. 312 00:15:24,760 --> 00:15:27,210 And at that point, we got a lot of people 313 00:15:27,210 --> 00:15:32,210 from Germany and Switzerland and Italy and so on. 314 00:15:32,470 --> 00:15:35,820 All of a sudden you'd see people and you went off 315 00:15:35,820 --> 00:15:39,090 but for many years we would never see another soul 316 00:15:39,090 --> 00:15:42,253 the whole time we're up here four or five days camping. 317 00:15:46,370 --> 00:15:47,510 Life in this wilderness 318 00:15:47,510 --> 00:15:49,163 wasn't always so romantic. 319 00:15:50,510 --> 00:15:52,883 But the mountains seem to make people happy. 320 00:15:54,870 --> 00:15:57,370 The sheer beauty of the mountains, 321 00:15:57,370 --> 00:15:58,940 they're always changing. 322 00:15:58,940 --> 00:16:00,300 As long as I've been here, 323 00:16:00,300 --> 00:16:02,970 I can see still new features in them. 324 00:16:02,970 --> 00:16:05,280 You know, something the light will change 325 00:16:05,280 --> 00:16:10,280 and it's just a lifelong study really. 326 00:16:10,680 --> 00:16:14,243 Yeah and I've been very fortunate to be part of that. 327 00:16:16,018 --> 00:16:17,380 On the Ya Ha Tinda Ranch, 328 00:16:17,380 --> 00:16:20,260 daily life revolves around the animals. 329 00:16:20,260 --> 00:16:23,280 In early summer, Antje likes to leave the house 330 00:16:23,280 --> 00:16:26,800 while the rest of the family is still sleeping. 331 00:16:26,800 --> 00:16:29,710 She heads for a mountain on the edge of the high plateau 332 00:16:29,710 --> 00:16:32,120 where she and Holger once saw a herd 333 00:16:32,120 --> 00:16:34,263 of wapiti in the early morning. 334 00:16:36,520 --> 00:16:38,770 Holger and Antje met and fell in love 335 00:16:38,770 --> 00:16:41,900 two years before their final school exams. 336 00:16:41,900 --> 00:16:43,880 They attended university together 337 00:16:43,880 --> 00:16:47,656 and even then planned to live in Canada one day. 338 00:16:47,656 --> 00:16:50,739 (lighthearted music) 339 00:16:52,185 --> 00:16:53,320 (speaks in foreign language) 340 00:16:53,320 --> 00:16:55,170 Somehow I always had this dream 341 00:16:55,170 --> 00:16:57,120 of the big wide world. 342 00:16:57,120 --> 00:16:58,860 I wrote in my high school yearbook 343 00:16:58,860 --> 00:17:01,640 that I wanted to become a forester in Canada 344 00:17:01,640 --> 00:17:04,530 and now I'm a biologist in Canada. 345 00:17:04,530 --> 00:17:06,960 I can't imagine anything more wonderful. 346 00:17:06,960 --> 00:17:08,070 This vastness. 347 00:17:08,070 --> 00:17:11,130 You can walk for hours without seeing a single soul, 348 00:17:11,130 --> 00:17:12,550 just the odd deer 349 00:17:12,550 --> 00:17:14,090 or if you're really lucky, 350 00:17:14,090 --> 00:17:16,293 you might spot a bear in the distance. 351 00:17:17,371 --> 00:17:19,788 (calm music) 352 00:17:23,900 --> 00:17:25,060 There is an estimated 353 00:17:25,060 --> 00:17:27,870 60 bears in Banff National Park 354 00:17:27,870 --> 00:17:31,693 but even so, Antje prefers to be alone in the wilderness. 355 00:17:32,770 --> 00:17:34,640 She accepts the risks, 356 00:17:34,640 --> 00:17:37,100 after all she is well-prepared 357 00:17:38,616 --> 00:17:39,860 (speaks in foreign language) 358 00:17:39,860 --> 00:17:41,760 Because there are grizzlies in the area 359 00:17:41,760 --> 00:17:43,700 I always have my bear spray with me. 360 00:17:43,700 --> 00:17:45,790 If a bear approaches you have to wait 361 00:17:45,790 --> 00:17:48,450 until it's close, five to eight meters away, 362 00:17:48,450 --> 00:17:50,080 before you can use the spray. 363 00:17:50,080 --> 00:17:53,080 You flip off the hook and spray cloud in front of the bear 364 00:17:53,080 --> 00:17:55,110 and hope that that puts it off. 365 00:17:55,110 --> 00:17:58,300 It's not 100% certain to deter the animal 366 00:17:58,300 --> 00:18:01,230 but the spray has been proven to be better than nothing. 367 00:18:01,230 --> 00:18:04,433 Luckily I've never been in a situation where I needed it. 368 00:18:05,650 --> 00:18:07,040 Let's hope I never am. 369 00:18:07,040 --> 00:18:08,827 The safest thing is to look out 370 00:18:08,827 --> 00:18:11,490 for any signs and make noise in the forest, 371 00:18:11,490 --> 00:18:13,573 and hope you never come across a bear. 372 00:18:15,127 --> 00:18:16,460 (gun pops) 373 00:18:16,460 --> 00:18:18,290 Once a year, the rangers have to go 374 00:18:18,290 --> 00:18:19,960 for shooting practice. 375 00:18:19,960 --> 00:18:21,990 They must always be prepared 376 00:18:21,990 --> 00:18:25,123 and in an emergency know how to handle their rifle. 377 00:18:26,250 --> 00:18:28,910 Private individuals are forbidden to carry weapons 378 00:18:28,910 --> 00:18:31,400 of any kind in Canada's parks. 379 00:18:31,400 --> 00:18:33,913 Only the rangers are allowed to be armed. 380 00:18:35,060 --> 00:18:37,050 It is important to park staff 381 00:18:37,050 --> 00:18:41,080 for visitors and animals to stay a certain distance apart. 382 00:18:41,080 --> 00:18:43,233 As a rule, this works really well. 383 00:18:45,590 --> 00:18:48,560 It is very rare for a ranger to have to use his weapon. 384 00:18:48,560 --> 00:18:52,700 as shooting instructor Chris Worobets explains. 385 00:18:52,700 --> 00:18:55,050 I mean, still this is the number one tool 386 00:18:55,050 --> 00:18:57,070 that we carry all the time 387 00:18:57,070 --> 00:19:00,700 and firearms are carried for more serious situations. 388 00:19:00,700 --> 00:19:04,420 We have deterrent rounds that we use such as these, 389 00:19:04,420 --> 00:19:08,390 so they're rubber slugs and bean bag rounds. 390 00:19:08,390 --> 00:19:10,200 We use it to inflict pain. 391 00:19:10,200 --> 00:19:12,200 If there say it's a bear 392 00:19:12,200 --> 00:19:14,910 that's staying around a populated area 393 00:19:14,910 --> 00:19:19,020 that's become conditioned to people 394 00:19:19,020 --> 00:19:20,770 and isn't afraid of people, 395 00:19:20,770 --> 00:19:22,100 and it's getting into trouble, 396 00:19:22,100 --> 00:19:23,930 rather than destroying it 397 00:19:23,930 --> 00:19:25,939 we'll try and put in place 398 00:19:25,939 --> 00:19:28,100 first a conditioning plan where we'll go 399 00:19:28,100 --> 00:19:31,420 and use noisemakers and pain stimulus 400 00:19:31,420 --> 00:19:34,070 to convince them that it's uncomfortable to stay there 401 00:19:34,070 --> 00:19:36,493 and to move away to a safe location. 402 00:19:37,520 --> 00:19:39,560 Nature in Canada presents itself 403 00:19:39,560 --> 00:19:42,240 in sumptuous and majestic style 404 00:19:42,240 --> 00:19:44,840 but it is also a habitat for countless animals 405 00:19:44,840 --> 00:19:47,573 that prefer to lead concealed lives. 406 00:19:48,540 --> 00:19:51,730 So it is not always easy to strike the right balance 407 00:19:51,730 --> 00:19:54,690 between the animals inhabitants' need for protection 408 00:19:54,690 --> 00:19:57,923 and the interested gaze of visitors to the park. 409 00:19:57,923 --> 00:20:00,210 (uplifting music) 410 00:20:00,210 --> 00:20:02,130 Ranger Jesse has been studying 411 00:20:02,130 --> 00:20:06,000 the migratory behavior of the park's animals for many years. 412 00:20:06,000 --> 00:20:08,690 Today he has brought us to a special place, 413 00:20:08,690 --> 00:20:11,117 a social tree as it is known. 414 00:20:11,117 --> 00:20:13,670 (uplifting music) 415 00:20:13,670 --> 00:20:16,320 Here animals exchange information 416 00:20:16,320 --> 00:20:19,142 which is almost invisible to the layman. 417 00:20:19,142 --> 00:20:20,330 With a grizzly bear hair here 418 00:20:20,330 --> 00:20:22,963 where they've been just rubbing their backs. 419 00:20:24,120 --> 00:20:28,480 Let's see a little bit further down there, there. 420 00:20:28,480 --> 00:20:29,340 Quite a bit down here, 421 00:20:29,340 --> 00:20:31,620 I wonder if this might be wolf even. 422 00:20:31,620 --> 00:20:34,560 This is a well-used tree by wolves and grizzly bears 423 00:20:34,560 --> 00:20:36,760 and it could be a good spot to put a camera. 424 00:20:39,370 --> 00:20:42,060 Because cameras are his secret informers, 425 00:20:42,060 --> 00:20:44,343 Jesse is going to set up another one here. 426 00:20:45,844 --> 00:20:47,243 A little bit off the trail. 427 00:20:47,243 --> 00:20:49,993 (dramatic music) 428 00:20:51,880 --> 00:20:54,480 Camera traps are triggered by movement. 429 00:20:55,550 --> 00:20:58,143 This spot between the fir trees looks ideal. 430 00:21:00,110 --> 00:21:02,230 So we wanna check it before we go 431 00:21:02,230 --> 00:21:04,180 just to make sure it is actually working. 432 00:21:04,180 --> 00:21:08,150 So you can see it's taking five pictures in a row 433 00:21:08,150 --> 00:21:09,650 which is exactly what we want. 434 00:21:13,443 --> 00:21:15,710 I think we have about 120 cameras. 435 00:21:15,710 --> 00:21:19,090 Every year we collect about 300,000 436 00:21:19,090 --> 00:21:22,160 remote camera images that we classify. 437 00:21:22,160 --> 00:21:25,230 And sometimes it's just blowing grass in the wind 438 00:21:25,230 --> 00:21:26,460 and blowing snow 439 00:21:26,460 --> 00:21:29,443 but other times we get some amazing wildlife shots. 440 00:21:30,460 --> 00:21:32,600 Jesse is particularly taken 441 00:21:32,600 --> 00:21:35,083 by some of the shyest inhabitants of the park. 442 00:21:37,120 --> 00:21:40,540 Although the park is set to contain more than 60 wolves, 443 00:21:40,540 --> 00:21:42,395 visitors rarely spot one. 444 00:21:42,395 --> 00:21:45,312 (calm piano music) 445 00:21:49,460 --> 00:21:52,780 Amazingly, the various species wolves, deers, 446 00:21:52,780 --> 00:21:56,720 even grizzly bears all seem to use the same trails. 447 00:21:56,720 --> 00:22:00,385 These pictures were taken only a few minutes apart. 448 00:22:00,385 --> 00:22:03,302 (calm piano music) 449 00:22:04,390 --> 00:22:06,900 The wild animals and their migratory behavior 450 00:22:06,900 --> 00:22:09,830 are also a topic on the Ya Ha Tinda Ranch 451 00:22:09,830 --> 00:22:13,115 because the last 100 years have seen dramatic changes. 452 00:22:13,115 --> 00:22:15,590 Holger's GPS analysis have shown 453 00:22:15,590 --> 00:22:18,800 that the migratory behavior of the elks has changed. 454 00:22:18,800 --> 00:22:21,660 At one time the deer only spent the winters here. 455 00:22:21,660 --> 00:22:23,330 Now they stay all year round 456 00:22:23,330 --> 00:22:25,690 and destroy the precious grassland. 457 00:22:25,690 --> 00:22:27,513 As yet no one knows why. 458 00:22:29,130 --> 00:22:31,080 For many years now Antje has also 459 00:22:31,080 --> 00:22:33,380 supported the research project. 460 00:22:33,380 --> 00:22:36,480 Together with Holger, she has fitted male and female elk 461 00:22:36,480 --> 00:22:37,870 with transmitter collars 462 00:22:37,870 --> 00:22:40,093 so that their movements can be profiled. 463 00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:41,833 I'm checking whether 464 00:22:41,833 --> 00:22:44,160 any of the wapiti are here in the valley. 465 00:22:44,160 --> 00:22:45,510 Since we're an open country 466 00:22:45,510 --> 00:22:48,040 any signals are received very clearly. 467 00:22:48,040 --> 00:22:51,130 I'm going through the frequencies of the various animals 468 00:22:51,130 --> 00:22:53,220 to see if any of them are in the valley. 469 00:22:53,220 --> 00:22:55,200 If I pick up a signal I can tell 470 00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:57,463 in which direction the deer is located. 471 00:22:59,350 --> 00:23:00,310 In his basement, 472 00:23:00,310 --> 00:23:03,020 the cowboy from Germany has set up a data bank 473 00:23:03,020 --> 00:23:05,283 for evaluating the behavior of wapiti. 474 00:23:06,280 --> 00:23:08,960 The surrounding area is shown on the screen. 475 00:23:08,960 --> 00:23:11,450 Each dot corresponds to a wapiti 476 00:23:11,450 --> 00:23:13,750 with a collar and transmitter. 477 00:23:13,750 --> 00:23:15,800 You can see quite clearly 478 00:23:15,800 --> 00:23:18,850 that in summer, in the 1970s and '80s, 479 00:23:18,850 --> 00:23:21,370 there wasn't a single animal on the ranch. 480 00:23:21,370 --> 00:23:24,120 The elk all spent the summer in the park. 481 00:23:24,120 --> 00:23:27,040 15 years later as the map on the right shows, 482 00:23:27,040 --> 00:23:29,940 there were hardly any elk left in the park in summer. 483 00:23:29,940 --> 00:23:32,430 All the gray dots are gathered around the ranch. 484 00:23:32,430 --> 00:23:34,380 This shows that hundreds of wapiti 485 00:23:34,380 --> 00:23:36,720 have abandoned their migratory behavior 486 00:23:36,720 --> 00:23:38,713 and no longer enter the park at all. 487 00:23:40,550 --> 00:23:42,750 The researchers don't know why this is 488 00:23:42,750 --> 00:23:44,070 but they are determined to try 489 00:23:44,070 --> 00:23:46,463 and get the elks to migrate once again. 490 00:23:48,740 --> 00:23:50,630 As summer makes her presence felt 491 00:23:50,630 --> 00:23:52,340 in the rugged Rocky Mountains, 492 00:23:52,340 --> 00:23:54,500 the first visitors also appear. 493 00:23:54,500 --> 00:23:56,040 The warmer months alone attract 494 00:23:56,040 --> 00:23:58,410 more than 3 million adventurers 495 00:23:58,410 --> 00:24:01,070 and extreme sportsmen and women 496 00:24:01,070 --> 00:24:02,780 because here in the wilderness, 497 00:24:02,780 --> 00:24:05,830 cycling, mountain biking, rafting, climbing, 498 00:24:05,830 --> 00:24:09,782 and virtually every other kind of extreme sport is possible. 499 00:24:09,782 --> 00:24:13,200 (uplifting music) 500 00:24:13,200 --> 00:24:14,950 But reconciling conservation 501 00:24:14,950 --> 00:24:18,750 with people's need for recreation is a balancing act. 502 00:24:18,750 --> 00:24:21,040 Time and again, the question arises 503 00:24:21,040 --> 00:24:24,120 as how many visitors the park can tolerate. 504 00:24:24,120 --> 00:24:25,840 Should numbers be restricted 505 00:24:25,840 --> 00:24:28,440 and indeed is that at all possible? 506 00:24:28,440 --> 00:24:30,110 It's a controversial issue 507 00:24:30,110 --> 00:24:31,970 because visitors are wanted 508 00:24:31,970 --> 00:24:34,200 and not just as a source of income. 509 00:24:34,200 --> 00:24:37,820 The aim for them is to experience the beauty of our world 510 00:24:37,820 --> 00:24:40,543 and realize that it needs their protection. 511 00:24:43,280 --> 00:24:46,120 Rush hour in this conservation paradise 512 00:24:46,120 --> 00:24:50,740 sometimes induces visitors to attempt reckless maneuvers. 513 00:24:50,740 --> 00:24:53,250 Park regulations are designed to enable people 514 00:24:53,250 --> 00:24:54,710 to experience the landscape 515 00:24:54,710 --> 00:24:56,473 without disturbing the animals. 516 00:24:57,640 --> 00:25:00,110 But not everyone sticks to the rules. 517 00:25:00,110 --> 00:25:02,080 Many visitors have no idea 518 00:25:02,080 --> 00:25:05,509 that they can put the animals in a stress situation. 519 00:25:05,509 --> 00:25:07,926 (calm music) 520 00:25:10,680 --> 00:25:13,620 Jesse drives regularly to the park's lookout points 521 00:25:13,620 --> 00:25:16,370 and encounters visitors who have no idea 522 00:25:16,370 --> 00:25:18,603 how they should behave towards the animals. 523 00:25:21,580 --> 00:25:23,720 Excuse me, when you see a bear, 524 00:25:23,720 --> 00:25:25,130 what are you supposed to do? 525 00:25:25,130 --> 00:25:27,420 Say something or do something 526 00:25:27,420 --> 00:25:28,770 or just be quiet? Yeah. 527 00:25:28,770 --> 00:25:30,960 Like I think if you're driving in your vehicle 528 00:25:30,960 --> 00:25:32,223 along Bow Valley Parkway, 529 00:25:33,270 --> 00:25:35,810 just pull over, have nice looks. 530 00:25:35,810 --> 00:25:38,020 It's best and safest to stay in your vehicle 531 00:25:40,367 --> 00:25:41,913 and then after a little while 532 00:25:41,913 --> 00:25:44,500 just move along and give the bear some space. 533 00:25:44,500 --> 00:25:45,333 All right. Yeah. 534 00:25:45,333 --> 00:25:47,490 When people say you fall on the ground 535 00:25:47,490 --> 00:25:49,150 face down, belly down. 536 00:25:49,150 --> 00:25:49,983 No. (chuckles) Don't move. 537 00:25:49,983 --> 00:25:50,816 Is that true? No. 538 00:25:50,816 --> 00:25:53,420 If you're hiking and you surprise a bear, 539 00:25:53,420 --> 00:25:56,250 most bears are just gonna continue doing their own thing 540 00:25:56,250 --> 00:25:58,720 and you just back up and give them space. 541 00:25:58,720 --> 00:25:59,755 Thank you very much. You're welcome. 542 00:25:59,755 --> 00:26:00,588 Thank you. Yeah. 543 00:26:00,588 --> 00:26:01,421 Thanks. All right. 544 00:26:01,421 --> 00:26:02,254 Let's go guys. 545 00:26:02,254 --> 00:26:03,087 Enjoy. 546 00:26:06,370 --> 00:26:08,470 Banff is a fascinating place to work 547 00:26:08,470 --> 00:26:10,310 because we have this interface 548 00:26:10,310 --> 00:26:13,250 between 3 million visitors a year 549 00:26:13,250 --> 00:26:15,700 and these really wary wildlife. 550 00:26:15,700 --> 00:26:18,040 So we spend a lot of time trying to understand 551 00:26:18,040 --> 00:26:20,820 how people affect wildlife 552 00:26:20,820 --> 00:26:23,530 and then what we can do to make Banff a place 553 00:26:23,530 --> 00:26:25,940 where it's a great spot for people to see wildlife 554 00:26:25,940 --> 00:26:29,270 yet provide wildlife with a place to live, 555 00:26:29,270 --> 00:26:31,650 and a place to flourish. 556 00:26:31,650 --> 00:26:33,610 And we've done a lot of work over the years 557 00:26:33,610 --> 00:26:35,983 to try and balance the two. 558 00:26:37,600 --> 00:26:38,960 Being totally alone 559 00:26:38,960 --> 00:26:40,730 yet in the middle of Canada, 560 00:26:40,730 --> 00:26:43,060 that's been life on the Ya Ha Tinda Ranch 561 00:26:43,060 --> 00:26:44,770 for more than a century. 562 00:26:44,770 --> 00:26:46,750 It is hard to imagine that this wilderness 563 00:26:46,750 --> 00:26:50,040 is under serious threat from man himself. 564 00:26:50,040 --> 00:26:51,540 But in Canada too, 565 00:26:51,540 --> 00:26:54,660 oil is a multi-billion dollar business. 566 00:26:54,660 --> 00:26:59,460 Located only 900 kilometers to the north is tar sands, 567 00:26:59,460 --> 00:27:02,250 one of the biggest oil fields on earth. 568 00:27:02,250 --> 00:27:04,900 Test drillings have also been carried out 569 00:27:04,900 --> 00:27:06,450 on the huge ranch 570 00:27:06,450 --> 00:27:08,393 but so far without success. 571 00:27:10,370 --> 00:27:13,450 Thus, the work of people like Holger and Rick 572 00:27:13,450 --> 00:27:15,100 and the future of the ranch 573 00:27:15,100 --> 00:27:18,010 with its rich tradition looks threatened. 574 00:27:18,010 --> 00:27:21,053 Today, the two are rounding up the young horses. 575 00:27:23,070 --> 00:27:25,597 Here you have to learn to adapt to nature. 576 00:27:25,597 --> 00:27:29,367 "On the ranch," Holger says, "clocks tick differently." 577 00:27:31,071 --> 00:27:32,180 (speaks in foreign language) 578 00:27:32,180 --> 00:27:33,160 When you're new here 579 00:27:33,160 --> 00:27:36,190 you do everything twice as fast as the cowboys. 580 00:27:36,190 --> 00:27:37,250 In the end, though, 581 00:27:37,250 --> 00:27:40,253 you are forced into this lifestyle and you slow down. 582 00:27:41,524 --> 00:27:42,590 And there is sense in that 583 00:27:42,590 --> 00:27:45,200 because horses can't take stress 584 00:27:45,200 --> 00:27:47,390 and they are what you are working with. 585 00:27:47,390 --> 00:27:51,560 If you make swift movements around horses they become edgy. 586 00:27:51,560 --> 00:27:53,740 You need to do everything calmly 587 00:27:53,740 --> 00:27:55,420 then you will find that the horses 588 00:27:55,420 --> 00:27:57,613 are far more relaxed and compliant. 589 00:28:00,660 --> 00:28:02,060 Rick always has an eye 590 00:28:02,060 --> 00:28:03,960 on how each horse is developing. 591 00:28:03,960 --> 00:28:07,960 After all, from next year on these still untamed youngsters 592 00:28:07,960 --> 00:28:10,373 will have to become the ranger's best friends. 593 00:28:13,440 --> 00:28:14,890 The horses are only gradually 594 00:28:14,890 --> 00:28:16,713 brought into contact with humans. 595 00:28:18,750 --> 00:28:21,250 His experience tells Rick whether or not 596 00:28:21,250 --> 00:28:22,713 a horse has character. 597 00:28:23,620 --> 00:28:26,090 Well, these horses, they're just special animals. 598 00:28:26,090 --> 00:28:28,650 They become friends and you know them rest of year. 599 00:28:28,650 --> 00:28:32,440 Each one of them has quite a strong personality. 600 00:28:32,440 --> 00:28:34,217 You get a real bond built with them 601 00:28:34,217 --> 00:28:35,890 and when they trust you like this 602 00:28:35,890 --> 00:28:38,300 and you can do whatever you like to do with them. 603 00:28:38,300 --> 00:28:39,920 It's kind of a nice feeling. 604 00:28:39,920 --> 00:28:42,353 Come to work in the morning and your colleagues like you, 605 00:28:42,353 --> 00:28:43,919 it's a good thing. 606 00:28:43,919 --> 00:28:46,500 (uptempo music) 607 00:28:46,500 --> 00:28:47,610 The same thing applies 608 00:28:47,610 --> 00:28:49,010 to dealing with people here. 609 00:28:50,600 --> 00:28:53,040 The lad from Germany had to slowly earn 610 00:28:53,040 --> 00:28:55,133 the recognition of the ranch cowboys. 611 00:28:56,020 --> 00:28:57,993 He has fond memories of the time. 612 00:28:59,560 --> 00:29:00,540 (speaks in foreign language) 613 00:29:00,540 --> 00:29:01,680 You're not allowed to buy 614 00:29:01,680 --> 00:29:04,020 your first hat yourself. 615 00:29:04,020 --> 00:29:07,200 It has to be approved or given to you. 616 00:29:07,200 --> 00:29:10,930 I was lucky enough to have my first hat presented to me 617 00:29:10,930 --> 00:29:12,800 but just to do everything right, 618 00:29:12,800 --> 00:29:16,110 one evening I went to all the cowboys on the ranch 619 00:29:16,110 --> 00:29:18,620 and asked if the hat was acceptable 620 00:29:18,620 --> 00:29:20,863 and whether it was okay for me to wear it. 621 00:29:23,320 --> 00:29:25,520 Fortunately they all said yes 622 00:29:25,520 --> 00:29:27,930 and added that I was well on the way to becoming 623 00:29:27,930 --> 00:29:30,580 a halfway useful cowboy. 624 00:29:30,580 --> 00:29:33,000 So the hat was now appropriate. 625 00:29:33,000 --> 00:29:35,969 (speaks in foreign language) 626 00:29:35,969 --> 00:29:38,700 (calm music) 627 00:29:38,700 --> 00:29:41,210 Ranger Jesse is on the way to the camera trap 628 00:29:41,210 --> 00:29:42,757 He set up a few weeks ago. 629 00:29:44,820 --> 00:29:46,150 He can't wait to find out 630 00:29:46,150 --> 00:29:48,901 what's been going on at the social tree. 631 00:29:48,901 --> 00:29:51,318 (calm music) 632 00:29:57,110 --> 00:29:59,150 It feels kind of like Christmas 633 00:29:59,150 --> 00:30:00,610 when we service these cameras 634 00:30:00,610 --> 00:30:03,290 'cause you don't know what's on there 635 00:30:03,290 --> 00:30:04,380 and it's always a surprise. 636 00:30:04,380 --> 00:30:05,900 Sometimes you don't get much 637 00:30:05,900 --> 00:30:08,193 and sometimes you get some amazing photos. 638 00:30:09,340 --> 00:30:12,173 Gonna pull this memory card out and pop a new one in. 639 00:30:13,135 --> 00:30:15,552 (calm music) 640 00:30:23,070 --> 00:30:25,570 The pictures exceed all expectations. 641 00:30:26,449 --> 00:30:28,866 (calm music) 642 00:30:55,758 --> 00:30:56,870 Grizzly bear is coming along 643 00:30:56,870 --> 00:30:59,000 and they rub on it. 644 00:30:59,000 --> 00:31:00,300 I think it feels good. 645 00:31:00,300 --> 00:31:02,820 They can rub some of their fur off 646 00:31:02,820 --> 00:31:04,530 but it's also a communication tree. 647 00:31:04,530 --> 00:31:06,830 So, that's how the bears that are rolling through the area 648 00:31:06,830 --> 00:31:08,580 know who is here, 649 00:31:08,580 --> 00:31:09,450 how long ago, 650 00:31:09,450 --> 00:31:11,250 probably what they're eating. 651 00:31:11,250 --> 00:31:13,870 And at the same time it's communication tree 652 00:31:13,870 --> 00:31:15,690 for other wildlife. 653 00:31:15,690 --> 00:31:17,280 We saw the wolf go through 654 00:31:17,280 --> 00:31:18,390 and it checked out the tree 655 00:31:18,390 --> 00:31:20,870 to see if other bears have been here. 656 00:31:20,870 --> 00:31:23,390 We had some deer and elk go through 657 00:31:23,390 --> 00:31:25,000 and they were smelling. 658 00:31:25,000 --> 00:31:28,780 And these three, mother grizzly bears with offspring, 659 00:31:28,780 --> 00:31:30,647 which is great for this area. 660 00:31:30,647 --> 00:31:33,064 (calm music) 661 00:31:45,560 --> 00:31:48,660 In autumn, Banff National Park 662 00:31:48,660 --> 00:31:51,210 is simply radiant. 663 00:31:51,210 --> 00:31:53,797 (wolf howls) 664 00:31:53,797 --> 00:31:57,547 (uplifting orchestral music) 665 00:32:01,460 --> 00:32:05,460 For Ralphine Locke, this is the most beautiful time of year. 666 00:32:05,460 --> 00:32:07,510 We've come to meet her at Green Spot, 667 00:32:07,510 --> 00:32:09,693 a lookout point high above Banff. 668 00:32:11,810 --> 00:32:14,610 As a little girl, she spent unforgettable afternoons 669 00:32:14,610 --> 00:32:18,550 on this popular picnic site with her grandparents. 670 00:32:18,550 --> 00:32:20,570 When I look down over the valley here 671 00:32:20,570 --> 00:32:23,660 it makes me think about my grandfather 672 00:32:23,660 --> 00:32:26,540 who was here before the railway. 673 00:32:26,540 --> 00:32:31,540 And he camped once in 1881 on the Bow River 674 00:32:33,730 --> 00:32:36,500 and he always used to tell us about 675 00:32:36,500 --> 00:32:41,380 what a wonder tour it was just to see the animals. 676 00:32:41,380 --> 00:32:43,490 I was quite close to my grandfather 677 00:32:43,490 --> 00:32:46,603 so it was good to hear those firsthand things. 678 00:32:48,230 --> 00:32:50,570 Ralphine has passed on her love of nature 679 00:32:50,570 --> 00:32:52,760 to her son, Harvey. 680 00:32:52,760 --> 00:32:56,510 (uplifting orchestral music) 681 00:33:03,850 --> 00:33:06,760 Harvey Locke is an internationally renowned 682 00:33:06,760 --> 00:33:09,480 advocate of national parks. 683 00:33:09,480 --> 00:33:12,450 A visionary who thinks along global lines. 684 00:33:12,450 --> 00:33:15,623 He still retains close ties with his home region. 685 00:33:16,460 --> 00:33:19,730 Banff is an extraordinarily wonderful place. 686 00:33:19,730 --> 00:33:23,700 Over the hill there behind, in front of me, 687 00:33:23,700 --> 00:33:26,170 my wife and I went for a nine-day walk this summer 688 00:33:26,170 --> 00:33:29,470 and saw only one other group of hikers in nine days. 689 00:33:29,470 --> 00:33:31,490 We were drinking from the streams. 690 00:33:31,490 --> 00:33:33,570 It's an incredibly wonderful wilderness place, 691 00:33:33,570 --> 00:33:36,120 one of the great places on earth for a wild nature. 692 00:33:39,290 --> 00:33:40,750 Harvey Locke is fighting 693 00:33:40,750 --> 00:33:44,280 for the global interlinking of national parks. 694 00:33:44,280 --> 00:33:46,730 Because only if the parks work together 695 00:33:46,730 --> 00:33:49,160 will animals on all five continents 696 00:33:49,160 --> 00:33:51,330 be able to move freely. 697 00:33:51,330 --> 00:33:52,700 We need to think about how this park 698 00:33:52,700 --> 00:33:53,770 connects to other parks 699 00:33:53,770 --> 00:33:55,960 and how that whole landscape hangs together 700 00:33:55,960 --> 00:33:58,940 because that's actually the scale at which nature works. 701 00:33:58,940 --> 00:34:01,880 And that led to an idea called nature needs half 702 00:34:01,880 --> 00:34:03,480 which is the idea of taking this 703 00:34:03,480 --> 00:34:05,460 Yellowstone to Yukon idea global. 704 00:34:05,460 --> 00:34:07,100 We should protect at least half the world 705 00:34:07,100 --> 00:34:09,730 in an interconnected way, land and sea. 706 00:34:09,730 --> 00:34:12,360 And so, I spend time on that 707 00:34:12,360 --> 00:34:14,680 and I believe that that's really important to us 708 00:34:14,680 --> 00:34:16,100 getting our relationship with nature 709 00:34:16,100 --> 00:34:17,423 right in the 21st century. 710 00:34:19,400 --> 00:34:22,750 It's an Indian summer on the Ya Ha Tinda Ranch. 711 00:34:22,750 --> 00:34:25,910 Once again, the ranch and its special grassland 712 00:34:25,910 --> 00:34:29,173 will again become the habitat for many wild animals. 713 00:34:31,090 --> 00:34:33,410 The wapiti have returned with their young 714 00:34:33,410 --> 00:34:35,589 and will spend the winter here. 715 00:34:35,589 --> 00:34:39,339 (uplifting orchestral music) 716 00:34:42,880 --> 00:34:44,180 One highlight in autumn 717 00:34:44,180 --> 00:34:46,413 is the arrival of foals at the ranch. 718 00:34:48,640 --> 00:34:50,260 Over a period of five years, 719 00:34:50,260 --> 00:34:53,162 they will be trained as horses for the rangers. 720 00:34:53,162 --> 00:34:56,912 (uplifting orchestral music) 721 00:35:05,472 --> 00:35:06,305 (speaks in foreign language) 722 00:35:06,305 --> 00:35:08,440 Yesterday Rick, the rangers' manager, 723 00:35:08,440 --> 00:35:11,720 returned from a big auction with 12 one-year-olds, 724 00:35:11,720 --> 00:35:14,120 and of course it's really exciting 725 00:35:14,120 --> 00:35:17,010 and another sign that the year is coming to an end. 726 00:35:17,010 --> 00:35:20,003 After all you only get foals once a year. 727 00:35:21,920 --> 00:35:23,520 Every ranger who ventures out 728 00:35:23,520 --> 00:35:25,160 into the wilderness on horseback 729 00:35:25,160 --> 00:35:28,680 has to be certain that his mount is reliable. 730 00:35:28,680 --> 00:35:30,360 And that is definitely not something 731 00:35:30,360 --> 00:35:32,260 to be taken for granted. 732 00:35:32,260 --> 00:35:33,750 These are all brand new colts, 733 00:35:33,750 --> 00:35:36,080 they're colts that were just weaned from their mothers 734 00:35:36,080 --> 00:35:37,700 about two weeks ago. 735 00:35:37,700 --> 00:35:40,210 So they're pretty worried about everything. 736 00:35:40,210 --> 00:35:41,940 They're wondering where their family went 737 00:35:41,940 --> 00:35:45,560 and what happened to the world as they were used to it. 738 00:35:45,560 --> 00:35:48,700 With us here now we won't actually start riding these colts 739 00:35:48,700 --> 00:35:51,100 for another two years, three years. 740 00:35:51,100 --> 00:35:52,030 We'll feed them. 741 00:35:52,030 --> 00:35:54,920 We'll look after them, we'll trim their feet. 742 00:35:54,920 --> 00:35:56,360 We'll halter break them. 743 00:35:56,360 --> 00:35:57,270 We'll warm them. 744 00:35:57,270 --> 00:35:58,790 We'll do things like this. 745 00:35:58,790 --> 00:36:01,050 Things just to work with them day by day 746 00:36:01,050 --> 00:36:03,353 so they get used to people being around them. 747 00:36:05,620 --> 00:36:06,910 For Holger and Antje, 748 00:36:06,910 --> 00:36:08,950 respect in dealing with animals 749 00:36:08,950 --> 00:36:10,543 and with nature is essential. 750 00:36:11,860 --> 00:36:13,830 Here in the Canadian wilderness, 751 00:36:13,830 --> 00:36:16,230 that is something they can teach their children. 752 00:36:20,060 --> 00:36:22,060 Time and again, we meet people in the park 753 00:36:22,060 --> 00:36:24,570 who have devoted their life to conservation. 754 00:36:24,570 --> 00:36:26,490 People like Jesse, of course. 755 00:36:26,490 --> 00:36:28,990 He has studied the animals all summer long. 756 00:36:28,990 --> 00:36:31,373 Now he is evaluating his pictures. 757 00:36:32,350 --> 00:36:33,770 Over the last few months, 758 00:36:33,770 --> 00:36:37,260 his camera has taken more than a thousand photographs, 759 00:36:37,260 --> 00:36:40,073 including some of bear 122. 760 00:36:41,223 --> 00:36:42,920 Grizzly bear 122 is a pretty neat bear. 761 00:36:42,920 --> 00:36:47,150 He is probably the biggest grizzly bear in the Bow Valley. 762 00:36:47,150 --> 00:36:50,160 And this summer he killed a sheep, 763 00:36:50,160 --> 00:36:52,330 another black bear, an elk, 764 00:36:52,330 --> 00:36:57,330 and I think the other animals give him space. (chuckles) 765 00:36:59,140 --> 00:37:01,930 Grizzly 122 is notorious in Banff 766 00:37:01,930 --> 00:37:03,840 and regularly hits the headlines 767 00:37:03,840 --> 00:37:06,373 when he's spotted near the little town. 768 00:37:07,520 --> 00:37:09,700 The GPS transmitter tells Jesse 769 00:37:09,700 --> 00:37:13,930 that the bear covers more than 50 kilometers everyday. 770 00:37:13,930 --> 00:37:16,291 These animals travel a lot. 771 00:37:16,291 --> 00:37:17,840 (chuckles) They travel far 772 00:37:17,840 --> 00:37:19,940 and this particular bear especially 773 00:37:19,940 --> 00:37:23,320 cross the Trans-Canada highway a lot of times, 774 00:37:23,320 --> 00:37:25,023 over 66 times. 775 00:37:26,540 --> 00:37:27,740 Regulating the balance 776 00:37:27,740 --> 00:37:31,130 between people and nature in the park remains a challenge, 777 00:37:31,130 --> 00:37:35,280 after all two railway lines and the Trans-Canadian highway 778 00:37:35,280 --> 00:37:37,170 run right through it. 779 00:37:37,170 --> 00:37:40,043 Roads often prove deadly traps for animals. 780 00:37:43,620 --> 00:37:45,950 For years, Harvey Locke has been fighting 781 00:37:45,950 --> 00:37:48,210 to have the problem addressed. 782 00:37:48,210 --> 00:37:51,590 Now in Banff, underpasses and overpasses for the animals 783 00:37:51,590 --> 00:37:53,860 have been built at great cost. 784 00:37:53,860 --> 00:37:55,980 They are an attempt to make a park 785 00:37:55,980 --> 00:37:58,470 that is intersected by traffic arteries 786 00:37:58,470 --> 00:38:00,393 safer for all the animals. 787 00:38:05,430 --> 00:38:09,120 Harvey and Jesse see this as only the beginning. 788 00:38:09,120 --> 00:38:11,710 To do justice to the animals in their habitat 789 00:38:11,710 --> 00:38:15,680 they say far larger areas need to be protected 790 00:38:15,680 --> 00:38:18,160 because it takes a while for animals to get used 791 00:38:18,160 --> 00:38:20,800 to the crossovers created for them 792 00:38:20,800 --> 00:38:22,900 For the first five years, 793 00:38:22,900 --> 00:38:25,460 we had deer use it a lot, elk use it a lot. 794 00:38:25,460 --> 00:38:27,120 Wolves started to learn to use it 795 00:38:27,120 --> 00:38:29,370 but we really didn't have many grizzly bears use it. 796 00:38:29,370 --> 00:38:30,890 But it's interesting, over time, 797 00:38:30,890 --> 00:38:33,440 these grizzly bears slowly started to increase 798 00:38:33,440 --> 00:38:35,030 their use of these overpasses. 799 00:38:35,030 --> 00:38:36,410 They became familiar with them 800 00:38:36,410 --> 00:38:38,410 and it became more natural as vegetation 801 00:38:38,410 --> 00:38:39,680 grew up on these things. 802 00:38:39,680 --> 00:38:42,980 It's reduced our mortality rates by well over 90% 803 00:38:44,080 --> 00:38:46,433 and animals can cross safely. 804 00:38:47,500 --> 00:38:49,120 Today many countries have built 805 00:38:49,120 --> 00:38:51,970 over and underpass is based on the Banff model, 806 00:38:51,970 --> 00:38:53,350 including Germany, 807 00:38:53,350 --> 00:38:55,230 but there still aren't enough. 808 00:38:55,230 --> 00:38:58,100 My vision is that this become normal 809 00:38:58,100 --> 00:38:59,980 for every highway in North America 810 00:38:59,980 --> 00:39:01,410 that goes through wildlife habitat. 811 00:39:01,410 --> 00:39:04,690 That overpasses and underpasses become a normal part 812 00:39:04,690 --> 00:39:06,690 of how we build roads in this continent 813 00:39:06,690 --> 00:39:09,480 and in Europe and in the rest of the world. 814 00:39:09,480 --> 00:39:11,250 And it's a question of how we wanna live 815 00:39:11,250 --> 00:39:13,190 as humans in the landscape. 816 00:39:13,190 --> 00:39:15,360 And Banff Park has turned out to be the place 817 00:39:15,360 --> 00:39:18,350 that people from all over the world come to study 818 00:39:18,350 --> 00:39:20,340 how these overpasses and underpasses 819 00:39:20,340 --> 00:39:21,640 and fencing work together. 820 00:39:23,790 --> 00:39:26,620 On the ranch it's almost time to say goodbye. 821 00:39:26,620 --> 00:39:29,153 Holger and his family are leaving Ya Ha Tinda 822 00:39:29,153 --> 00:39:31,553 because their children now need to go to school. 823 00:39:32,432 --> 00:39:34,849 (calm music) 824 00:39:38,940 --> 00:39:40,017 Perfect! 825 00:39:40,017 --> 00:39:42,434 (calm music) 826 00:39:43,330 --> 00:39:45,430 The Bohms are bidding farewell 827 00:39:45,430 --> 00:39:49,423 to the wilderness and moving to the oil city of Edmonton. 828 00:39:50,390 --> 00:39:51,223 (speaks in foreign language) 829 00:39:51,223 --> 00:39:52,090 When we move to the city 830 00:39:52,090 --> 00:39:54,270 it will be the end not only of the summer 831 00:39:54,270 --> 00:39:57,490 but also of our entire life on the ranch. 832 00:39:57,490 --> 00:39:58,837 That's sad because up until now 833 00:39:58,837 --> 00:40:01,380 the children have been able to roam free 834 00:40:01,380 --> 00:40:02,990 and do what they wanted. 835 00:40:02,990 --> 00:40:05,220 Now though school life beckons, 836 00:40:05,220 --> 00:40:07,650 little Finny will start in grade one. 837 00:40:07,650 --> 00:40:10,953 It's a pity but on the other hand, it's also exciting. 838 00:40:12,861 --> 00:40:14,242 (laughs) 839 00:40:14,242 --> 00:40:18,245 ♪ And there'll peace in the valley ♪ 840 00:40:18,245 --> 00:40:22,216 ♪ For me someday ♪ 841 00:40:22,216 --> 00:40:23,350 ♪ There'll be peace ♪ 842 00:40:23,350 --> 00:40:25,690 Antje and Holger will come back though 843 00:40:25,690 --> 00:40:29,063 to a place where they have forged lifelong friendships. 844 00:40:29,950 --> 00:40:34,298 ♪ There'll be no sorrow, no sadness ♪ 845 00:40:34,298 --> 00:40:37,616 ♪ No trouble I see ♪ 846 00:40:37,616 --> 00:40:42,366 ♪ There'll be peace in the valley for me ♪ 847 00:40:47,860 --> 00:40:49,640 As the temperature drops, 848 00:40:49,640 --> 00:40:52,450 the bears gradually begin to hibernate, 849 00:40:52,450 --> 00:40:54,370 the wolves withdraw, 850 00:40:54,370 --> 00:40:57,500 and the park offers new opportunities. 851 00:40:57,500 --> 00:41:00,400 This still fairly new winter sports region 852 00:41:00,400 --> 00:41:03,219 now attract skiers and snowboarders. 853 00:41:03,219 --> 00:41:06,802 (intense orchestral music) 854 00:41:13,169 --> 00:41:15,900 We have spent a year in this incredible place, 855 00:41:15,900 --> 00:41:18,371 in Banff National Park. 856 00:41:18,371 --> 00:41:21,430 (intense orchestral music) 857 00:41:21,430 --> 00:41:25,293 Today, 13% of the earth surface is protected. 858 00:41:26,290 --> 00:41:28,630 Perhaps nature needs even more space 859 00:41:28,630 --> 00:41:32,109 if we are to live in balance with her once again. 860 00:41:32,109 --> 00:41:35,692 (intense orchestral music) 861 00:41:46,990 --> 00:41:49,440 We will never forget the people we have got to know 862 00:41:49,440 --> 00:41:51,053 over the last 12 months. 863 00:41:52,210 --> 00:41:54,010 With their love of their park, 864 00:41:54,010 --> 00:41:56,290 their wishes, their concerns, 865 00:41:56,290 --> 00:41:58,400 and their visions. 866 00:41:58,400 --> 00:42:01,600 The world is becoming a busier and busier place 867 00:42:01,600 --> 00:42:05,300 and wildlife clearly need some protected areas 868 00:42:05,300 --> 00:42:07,130 to survive and persist. 869 00:42:07,130 --> 00:42:10,210 So, what we need is support from people 870 00:42:10,210 --> 00:42:12,667 to provide places for wildlife. 871 00:42:12,667 --> 00:42:16,250 (intense orchestral music) 872 00:42:19,243 --> 00:42:20,076 (speaks in foreign language) 873 00:42:20,076 --> 00:42:22,760 Oil is always a major issue in Canada 874 00:42:22,760 --> 00:42:24,630 and if oil were discovered here, 875 00:42:24,630 --> 00:42:27,750 it would be very hard to preserve the ranch the way it is, 876 00:42:27,750 --> 00:42:29,236 that's the danger. 877 00:42:29,236 --> 00:42:32,700 (intense orchestral music) 878 00:42:32,700 --> 00:42:36,080 Challenges, definitely challenges. 879 00:42:36,080 --> 00:42:39,700 But we seem to meet them and overcome most of them. 880 00:42:39,700 --> 00:42:40,650 Keep them balanced. 881 00:42:43,530 --> 00:42:45,593 And it's still a lovely place to live. 882 00:42:46,453 --> 00:42:50,036 (intense orchestral music) 883 00:42:51,860 --> 00:42:53,960 What I've come to believe is that 884 00:42:53,960 --> 00:42:56,410 this kind of an intact system of landscape 885 00:42:56,410 --> 00:42:57,540 where humans live with nature 886 00:42:57,540 --> 00:43:00,826 should be the new normal for the 21st century. 887 00:43:00,826 --> 00:43:04,409 {\an8}(intense orchestral music) 66952

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