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(bird cawing)
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(horns honking)
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(traffic humming)
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(bell ringing)
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(upbeat music)
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(siren wailing)
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The skyline of Dakha,
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the capital of Bangladesh.
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More than 12 million people live
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in this fast growing metropolis
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and thousands more arrive every day.
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(traffic humming)
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The streets of Dakha have long become
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like the eye of a needle.
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There are not enough streets for the
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increasing number of people and vehicles.
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(horns honking)
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Worse than the foul air is the noise on the street.
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Even if traffic is at a complete standstill
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horns are always honking.
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Bangladesh lies to the east of India,
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it's northern border is formed by the Himalayas.
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The center of this congestion plagued city
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are the streets around the bus station of Gulistan.
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(sitar music)
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(yelling in foreign language)
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Rickshaws still dominate the streets of the city.
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25 year old Badshed Meea has been transporting goods
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by rickshaw for over seven years now.
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(traffic humming)
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(child yelling)
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(yelling in foreign language)
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Today Badshed has to take TV sets and accessories
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to a shop in the old town for a logistics company.
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If he loads up his rickshaw to the top
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he gets the equivalent of 70 cents per kilometer.
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(Badshed speaking in a foreign language)
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He can manage two or three such trips a day.
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It depends on how bad the congestion is
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and if he can get through without problems.
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(speaking in a foreign language)
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I might have to bribe the traffic police,
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but this is already included in the price.
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(Badshed speaking in a foreign language)
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(lively music)
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(Badshed speaking in a foreign language)
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(traffic humming)
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Every day thousands of young people
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like Badshed arrive in the capital.
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They dream of wealth and fast money,
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most of them end up on the streets of Dakha.
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The job of rickshaw driver
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is a good opportunity to earn money.
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(Badshed speaking in a foreign language)
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My home village is called Shahapur,
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there are no jobs there so I came to Dakha.
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Life and work here are hard,
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there are a lot of traffic jams in Dakha.
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Driving is dangerous and rickshaws are banned
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on the larger main streets, but I'll manage.
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There are many spots where the traffic police stop us.
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Sometimes they beat us, but if you give them ten cents
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then they let you drive on.
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(Badshed speaking in a foreign language)
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(soft music)
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(Badshed speaking in a foreign language)
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It's going uphill up there
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and you have to get off and help me push.
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(Badshed speaking in a foreign language)
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Now we're taking a left turn.
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(traffic humming)
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In the streets of Dakha
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things can easily get lost,
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so the logistics company sends its helpers along.
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They watch the goods and show Badshed the way
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through the maze of streets.
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(men yelling)
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(soft music)
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Accidents and broken vehicles are part of the scenery,
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they're often the aftermath of a bit of jostling
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or inconsiderate drivers.
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The age and poor condition of the vehicles
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make any transport a high risk journey.
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This old lorry was hopelessly overloaded,
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18 tons of steel rods instead of the legal limit of five
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caused it to break down in the middle of the junction.
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(speaking in a foreign language)
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It's terrible we're running late,
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we've got more expenses and won't be getting our wages,
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we have to pay for everything out of our own pocket.
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It's gonna cost us dearly.
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(metal slapping)
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This time no one got hurt,
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but accidents like this
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are typical for the streets of Dakha.
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(singing in a foreign language)
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35 year old rickshaw driver Mohammed Azeem
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was swept into the streets of Dakha more than 20 years ago.
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Every day he drives passengers through the city
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to earn a few euros.
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Azeem has a wife and two children to feed.
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(horns honking)
(bells ringing)
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He knows the streets and its dangers
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and knows exactly what to look out for.
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(speaking in a foreign language)
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Actually, all other vehicles
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are dangerous for me,
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but I have to pay particular attention
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to buses, lorries and ordinary cars.
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(speaking in a foreign language)
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The accident happened when a van
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hit me from behind and held me curbside.
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I lost consciousness immediately,
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it took me three months to get back onto the rickshaw.
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(speaking in a foreign language)
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There are too many rickshaw drivers in Dakha,
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any newcomer can do this job,
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for Azeem this means ever longer waiting times
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and prices are competitive.
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(speaking in a foreign language)
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Rickshaw, how much do you want?
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20 cents.
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15.
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No.
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the other rickshaws ask for less.
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I take 20, go to the others.
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No I don't have time, let's go.
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(bell ringing)
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(traffic humming)
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Driving on the street is not only dangerous,
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it's also exhausting.
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Azeem can't manage more than three or four hours per day.
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Sometimes he also has to wait for over 10 hours.
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At the end of the day he's often left with just a few euros.
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He will send most of this money to his wife and children
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who live in the countryside.
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(speaking in a foreign language)
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When I sleep or walk my joints often ache.
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(Azeem speaks in a foreign language)
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I can't say how much longer I will be able to do this,
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how much longer my body can take the strain,
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but I have to feed and raise my children somehow.
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(singing in a foreign language)
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(yelling in a foreign language)
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After one hour stuck in traffic
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Badshed has covered the short distance to the old town.
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(yelling in a foreign language)
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Together with the logistics company's helpers
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he delivers the goods.
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Particularly in the hot tropical summer
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a taxi with air conditioning is the only chance
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to escape the overheated streets for a short while.
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(siren wailing)
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Mohammed Amanula's taxi is a luxury
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only rich people can afford.
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Mohammed has been steering his yellow cab
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through the big city jungle of Dakha for seven years now.
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(Mohammed Amanula speaking in a foreign language)
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The worst thing
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is the ever present traffic jams,
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they cause lots of problems,
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sometimes I need two hours for a short distance
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you would normally need 20 minutes for.
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This way I have fewer customers and make hardly any money.
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My job's not really worth it's while anymore.
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It's usually richer clients, business people,
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foreigners who need to get to the airport
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who treat themselves to a taxi.
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Englishman David Ginnings often travels
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to Bangladesh for business
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and has managed to pick up a few words
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of the local language.
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(David speaking in a foreign language)
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However David has not managed to get used to
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the traffic in Dakha.
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I mean, I drive in Rome,
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I've driven in Naples for 30 years.
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I live in Italy, I've been there for 30 years,
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but I would never drive in Dakha, never.
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I wouldn't risk it, first because people are not insured,
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which is very important.
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My friend's brother is now mad, he was hit,
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now he's completely crazy, brain damaged.
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And they just run away,
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if you have an accident they never stop,
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because the people would lynch them, kill them.
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I mean, walking across the road is a problem,
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the crossings are very few and the people take no notice,
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they take no notice of the police.
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Traffic lights are just a waste of money.
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(lively music)
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You hop across the road,
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you try to stop the cars with your hand.
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They don't easily let you go,
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and they get out in the middle of the traffic
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and check the, something, like this.
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It's very informal, I mean,
198
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I don't think they have a highway code,
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or if they do, I don't think anybody's ever read it.
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I don't think the police have read it,
201
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because they don't stop people.
202
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Occasionally the government
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tries to lay down the law.
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They just issued a new highway code.
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Please read this
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and take note of the new rules.
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Are those the new laws?
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Yes.
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I got something similar the other day.
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Okay.
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The government wants to enforce
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drivers keeping to their individual lanes.
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(speaking in a foreign language)
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Actually, it's a problem for all of us,
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bus and taxi drivers are doing it wrong,
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but the worst offenders are the rickshaw drivers.
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They haven't got a clue about the highway code.
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I never know where they go next.
219
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They don't even have an indicator, it's terrible.
220
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And they do whatever they want.
221
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It's true that we often go too fast,
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but we're not the only ones.
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Our customers want to reach their destination quickly,
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so we simply step on it.
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There are policemen
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at almost all the major junctions
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regulating the flow of traffic.
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Without them, traffic would come to a complete standstill.
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People respect the officers more than the traffic signs,
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but even they can't really control the chaos.
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(whistle blowing)
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(police officer speaking in a foreign language)
233
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Everyone wants to go first,
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if we don't put a stop to this behavior
235
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nothing will ever change.
236
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Everyone simply drives onto the junction,
237
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jack-knives and obstructs the rest of the traffic.
238
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No one gives in, everyone thinks only of themselves,
239
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and how to get away the quickest.
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It's rush hour, not even the rickshaws
241
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can get through now.
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Slowly the mood is reaching boiling point.
243
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In the old town the next transport is waiting for Badshed.
244
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At a wholesaler's he loads building materials
245
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which he is to take to a building site.
246
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At least there are no dangerous buses
247
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or lorries in old Dakha.
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(Badshed speaking in a foreign language)
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It's hard work,
250
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but I don't have an alternative.
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I once fell off my bicycle and broke my leg,
252
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when I transport pipes like those it's very dangerous,
253
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the streets are narrow and I have to make sure
254
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I don't get caught anywhere.
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(soft music)
256
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Badshed never finished school,
257
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instead he went to work,
258
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in order to support his family in the countryside.
259
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Because Badshed started to work,
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his brother was able to study.
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If we were both studying
262
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we wouldn't have enough money
263
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and in the end we'd both fail.
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Badshed's situation is typical
265
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for the life of the poor in Bangladesh.
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Often there is only enough money
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to pay for the education of one family member.
268
00:18:58,590 --> 00:19:02,360
Badshed's family expects him to make this sacrifice,
269
00:19:02,360 --> 00:19:04,333
but it's a high risk plan.
270
00:19:06,660 --> 00:19:08,340
If I ever cause an accident,
271
00:19:08,340 --> 00:19:09,820
it would be a disaster,
272
00:19:09,820 --> 00:19:11,850
if it's my fault and the driver is injured
273
00:19:11,850 --> 00:19:13,290
and his car damaged,
274
00:19:13,290 --> 00:19:16,283
I'd need money for the repairs and medical costs.
275
00:19:17,197 --> 00:19:19,780
(loud traffic)
276
00:19:22,590 --> 00:19:24,100
Something like that would cause great
277
00:19:24,100 --> 00:19:25,323
hardship for the family.
278
00:19:28,894 --> 00:19:31,477
(loud yelling)
279
00:19:35,103 --> 00:19:40,103
(Azeem speaking in a foreign language)
280
00:19:40,510 --> 00:19:42,860
Rickshaw driver Azeem is on his way
281
00:19:42,860 --> 00:19:45,230
to the hospital with a customer.
282
00:19:45,230 --> 00:19:47,770
Mohammed Zaved wants to visit his nephew
283
00:19:47,770 --> 00:19:49,320
who has had a traffic accident.
284
00:19:51,023 --> 00:19:56,023
(horn honking)
(bell ringing)
285
00:19:58,383 --> 00:20:02,466
(speaking in a foreign language)
286
00:20:06,560 --> 00:20:10,930
Every day up to 200 victims of traffic accidents
287
00:20:10,930 --> 00:20:13,520
end up in the community hospital.
288
00:20:13,520 --> 00:20:16,420
Broken bones, cranial traumas,
289
00:20:16,420 --> 00:20:20,003
but also more severe internal injuries are treated here.
290
00:20:21,070 --> 00:20:23,010
The hospital barely manages
291
00:20:23,010 --> 00:20:25,530
to treat the many injured people.
292
00:20:25,530 --> 00:20:27,952
Lots of patients camp out in the hallways
293
00:20:27,952 --> 00:20:30,423
and only receive minimal treatment.
294
00:20:34,534 --> 00:20:37,117
(somber music)
295
00:20:49,780 --> 00:20:51,550
Zaved's nephew was involved
296
00:20:51,550 --> 00:20:53,943
in a serious accident with a taxi.
297
00:20:54,890 --> 00:20:59,017
He's been waiting for weeks for his second operation.
298
00:20:59,017 --> 00:21:03,100
(speaking in a foreign language)
299
00:21:07,780 --> 00:21:08,900
Today on my way from the village
300
00:21:08,900 --> 00:21:10,490
I saw another accident.
301
00:21:10,490 --> 00:21:15,233
It involved three cars, two people were dead on the spot.
302
00:21:16,320 --> 00:21:18,170
Our streets are horrible death traps.
303
00:21:27,584 --> 00:21:31,667
(speaking in a foreign language)
304
00:21:34,743 --> 00:21:36,065
There are not enough doctors
305
00:21:36,065 --> 00:21:38,800
and not enough nurses.
306
00:21:38,800 --> 00:21:42,445
Operations take place only once a week.
307
00:21:42,445 --> 00:21:45,870
Anyone who can afford it books personal treatment
308
00:21:45,870 --> 00:21:47,153
with the chief physician.
309
00:21:51,425 --> 00:21:53,341
Fractured the midshaft of the humerus,
310
00:21:53,341 --> 00:21:56,963
and this fracture has already caused nerve damage.
311
00:21:58,089 --> 00:22:01,089
(people chattering)
312
00:22:03,800 --> 00:22:05,140
Following the rounds
313
00:22:05,140 --> 00:22:08,223
the hospital settles into it's every day routine.
314
00:22:10,625 --> 00:22:11,860
(baby crying)
315
00:22:11,860 --> 00:22:14,190
As there are not enough nurses,
316
00:22:14,190 --> 00:22:16,210
most people have to have their relatives
317
00:22:16,210 --> 00:22:17,660
look after and care for them.
318
00:22:32,930 --> 00:22:34,920
This is Gulistan bus station
319
00:22:34,920 --> 00:22:37,500
on the outskirts of the old town.
320
00:22:37,500 --> 00:22:39,340
All those who arrive in the capitol
321
00:22:39,340 --> 00:22:41,350
full of great expectations
322
00:22:41,350 --> 00:22:43,543
end up here in the heart of Dakha.
323
00:22:46,640 --> 00:22:50,223
Buses arrive from all over the country or leave from here.
324
00:22:51,086 --> 00:22:53,919
(traffic humming)
325
00:22:57,310 --> 00:23:00,180
Badshed has come here to meet his uncle.
326
00:23:00,180 --> 00:23:03,330
He wants to take the afternoon bus to Shahapur,
327
00:23:03,330 --> 00:23:04,913
his family's home village.
328
00:23:09,122 --> 00:23:10,200
(Badshed speaking in a foreign language)
329
00:23:10,200 --> 00:23:11,320
Do you know where the bus
330
00:23:11,320 --> 00:23:12,790
to Shahapur leaves from?
331
00:23:12,790 --> 00:23:13,840
No idea.
332
00:23:21,180 --> 00:23:24,080
The bus to Shahapur, does it leave from here?
333
00:23:26,686 --> 00:23:27,963
Shahapur, I dunno.
334
00:23:29,060 --> 00:23:31,379
Like many rickshaw drivers,
335
00:23:31,379 --> 00:23:33,980
Badshed doesn't have a bank account.
336
00:23:33,980 --> 00:23:36,640
He could only handle the money personally
337
00:23:36,640 --> 00:23:38,760
or give it to a family member.
338
00:23:38,760 --> 00:23:41,593
Everything else would be too unreliable.
339
00:23:49,951 --> 00:23:51,950
Uncle, how long have you been here?
340
00:23:51,950 --> 00:23:54,407
I just got here, how are you.
341
00:23:57,159 --> 00:23:58,990
Good, take the money
342
00:23:58,990 --> 00:24:00,570
and give it to my mother at home.
343
00:24:00,570 --> 00:24:02,720
Tell my brother to be a good boy and study.
344
00:24:05,796 --> 00:24:08,629
(garbled yelling)
345
00:24:15,950 --> 00:24:18,170
For many people in Bangladesh,
346
00:24:18,170 --> 00:24:22,040
buses are the only means of transport they can afford.
347
00:24:22,040 --> 00:24:25,443
You pay just one point five cents per kilometer,
348
00:24:26,530 --> 00:24:27,880
on the other hand the passengers
349
00:24:27,880 --> 00:24:30,833
have to do with no comfort whatsoever.
350
00:24:33,008 --> 00:24:36,830
(yelling in a foreign language)
351
00:24:36,830 --> 00:24:39,350
The large coaches are the true kings
352
00:24:39,350 --> 00:24:40,703
of the streets of Dakha.
353
00:24:44,492 --> 00:24:46,420
Mohammed Razhak is 32
354
00:24:46,420 --> 00:24:49,680
and has been driving a bus for more than 10 years.
355
00:24:49,680 --> 00:24:52,263
He doesn't mind the tightly packed space.
356
00:24:56,030 --> 00:24:57,973
Why is the woman still standing?
357
00:25:00,038 --> 00:25:01,138
She needs to sit down.
358
00:25:03,397 --> 00:25:07,010
(speaking in a foreign language)
359
00:25:07,010 --> 00:25:08,530
I start the day in the name of Allah,
360
00:25:08,530 --> 00:25:09,950
but nobody is perfect.
361
00:25:14,057 --> 00:25:16,090
Sometimes I drive badly,
362
00:25:16,090 --> 00:25:18,040
even though I know the gap is not big enough,
363
00:25:18,040 --> 00:25:18,993
I take it anyway.
364
00:25:20,739 --> 00:25:23,639
I have to admit, we're to blame for some of the accidents.
365
00:25:33,111 --> 00:25:35,960
Mohammed's 22 year old helper Khel Zarachman
366
00:25:35,960 --> 00:25:38,893
works on the bus for up to 16 hours straight.
367
00:25:42,570 --> 00:25:45,190
His job is to get the passengers on board,
368
00:25:45,190 --> 00:25:47,630
to call out the bus's destination
369
00:25:47,630 --> 00:25:49,543
and to guide the driver safely.
370
00:25:57,267 --> 00:25:59,350
(Khel speaking in a foreign language)
371
00:25:59,350 --> 00:26:01,520
On the one hand, I like the work,
372
00:26:01,520 --> 00:26:02,770
but I also don't like it.
373
00:26:03,900 --> 00:26:05,913
Unfortunately people don't respect us.
374
00:26:07,110 --> 00:26:09,710
Even the rickshaw drivers come up to me and beat me.
375
00:26:11,200 --> 00:26:14,050
Some passengers get aggressive when they're asked to pay.
376
00:26:14,890 --> 00:26:17,573
They even break the windows or set fire to the bus.
377
00:26:18,842 --> 00:26:21,750
(traffic humming)
378
00:26:21,750 --> 00:26:24,683
We're full, no, we're full, keep going.
379
00:26:28,882 --> 00:26:31,153
They don't listen, they want to get on anyway.
380
00:26:41,370 --> 00:26:43,630
Transport is a scarce commodity,
381
00:26:43,630 --> 00:26:46,423
if you're not assertive you don't get anywhere.
382
00:26:56,040 --> 00:27:00,090
Bus driver Razhak has to do more than avoid accidents,
383
00:27:00,090 --> 00:27:01,420
he also has to make sure
384
00:27:01,420 --> 00:27:04,070
that there is cash in the till at the end of the day.
385
00:27:05,055 --> 00:27:07,840
(Razhak speaking in a foreign language)
386
00:27:07,840 --> 00:27:09,240
Bus number six is on the road
387
00:27:09,240 --> 00:27:11,003
from six a.m. to 11 p.m.
388
00:27:12,780 --> 00:27:15,210
At lunchtime I take a break and the rest of my life
389
00:27:15,210 --> 00:27:16,603
I spend stuck in traffic.
390
00:27:18,892 --> 00:27:21,487
We always have to drive as much as we can.
391
00:27:22,850 --> 00:27:24,713
Rent for the bus is 40 euros per day,
392
00:27:25,810 --> 00:27:27,660
we have to buy petrol on top of that.
393
00:27:28,792 --> 00:27:30,170
If we actually want to earn some money
394
00:27:30,170 --> 00:27:32,347
we really have to step on it.
395
00:27:32,347 --> 00:27:35,625
(Razhak speaking in a foreign language)
396
00:27:35,625 --> 00:27:38,292
(upbeat music)
397
00:27:56,230 --> 00:27:59,240
Tensions are running high on the streets,
398
00:27:59,240 --> 00:28:03,263
it takes only a tiny spark for the powder keg to explode.
399
00:28:07,006 --> 00:28:09,230
(yelling in a foreign language)
400
00:28:09,230 --> 00:28:11,300
Fear is a constant passenger for us,
401
00:28:11,300 --> 00:28:14,013
if there's an accident most of us will take off.
402
00:28:14,890 --> 00:28:17,130
There's a huge danger that the passengers,
403
00:28:17,130 --> 00:28:20,150
that is to say, the simple people, would beat us to death.
404
00:28:20,150 --> 00:28:21,500
So we'd rather do a runner.
405
00:29:00,910 --> 00:29:02,940
A little aside from congestion
406
00:29:02,940 --> 00:29:06,520
and traffic chaos there are the rickshaw stations.
407
00:29:06,520 --> 00:29:09,633
They tend to belong to the people who rent out the bikes.
408
00:29:11,300 --> 00:29:13,610
The vehicles are parked downstairs,
409
00:29:13,610 --> 00:29:15,533
the drivers sleep upstairs.
410
00:29:18,460 --> 00:29:21,993
Apart from Azeem some 100 drivers can stay here.
411
00:29:23,308 --> 00:29:24,940
(speaking in a foreign language)
412
00:29:24,940 --> 00:29:25,970
I would rather work
413
00:29:25,970 --> 00:29:27,420
in my village with my family.
414
00:29:28,990 --> 00:29:30,710
I'm actually a farmer by trade,
415
00:29:30,710 --> 00:29:32,810
but I don't have my own farm and no money.
416
00:29:34,958 --> 00:29:38,073
So I have no choice but to keep driving a rickshaw.
417
00:29:43,070 --> 00:29:45,760
Sleeping, personal hygiene, eating,
418
00:29:45,760 --> 00:29:47,490
or repairing the rickshaw.
419
00:29:47,490 --> 00:29:50,183
Those are the everyday activities of the station.
420
00:29:51,600 --> 00:29:53,090
The better it is run,
421
00:29:53,090 --> 00:29:55,690
the longer the drivers tend to stay here.
422
00:29:55,690 --> 00:29:57,690
Some even live here with their families.
423
00:29:59,670 --> 00:30:02,170
Others don't actually drive,
424
00:30:02,170 --> 00:30:05,410
they are busy maintaining the bikes.
425
00:30:05,410 --> 00:30:08,330
The rickshaws are old and the ramshackle
426
00:30:08,330 --> 00:30:10,503
streets of Dakha take their toll.
427
00:30:16,120 --> 00:30:18,620
Some of the rickshaw driver's wives
428
00:30:18,620 --> 00:30:21,950
earn some extra money by cooking for the men.
429
00:30:21,950 --> 00:30:26,410
Three meals a day cost the equivalent of 70 cents.
430
00:30:26,410 --> 00:30:29,983
Usually rice with vegetables and some fish is on the menu.
431
00:30:31,085 --> 00:30:33,502
(soft music)
432
00:30:39,330 --> 00:30:41,740
No one has to go hungry,
433
00:30:41,740 --> 00:30:45,920
but there is no such thing as a fat rickshaw driver.
434
00:30:45,920 --> 00:30:48,983
The food is just about enough to keep up their strength.
435
00:30:51,264 --> 00:30:53,985
(soft music)
436
00:30:53,985 --> 00:30:56,985
(people chattering)
437
00:31:11,603 --> 00:31:12,690
(horn honking)
438
00:31:12,690 --> 00:31:16,460
In the afternoon Azeem sets off once more.
439
00:31:16,460 --> 00:31:19,940
When the office is closed business goes well,
440
00:31:19,940 --> 00:31:22,210
but this is also the time when traffic
441
00:31:22,210 --> 00:31:24,153
often comes to a complete standstill.
442
00:31:53,155 --> 00:31:56,488
Driver Badshed has been given a big job.
443
00:32:00,450 --> 00:32:02,540
In addition to the normal obstacles,
444
00:32:02,540 --> 00:32:05,130
like chaos and lack of discipline,
445
00:32:05,130 --> 00:32:08,193
you have to contend with the dismal state of the streets.
446
00:32:11,950 --> 00:32:13,680
Everywhere there are roadworks,
447
00:32:13,680 --> 00:32:16,810
which are usually not cordoned off or marked as such.
448
00:32:16,810 --> 00:32:18,980
It's assumed that the road users will notice
449
00:32:18,980 --> 00:32:20,913
the hole in the street in good time.
450
00:32:24,420 --> 00:32:26,750
The men work with simple tools,
451
00:32:26,750 --> 00:32:29,843
his wages are so low, it's cheaper than using a digger.
452
00:32:31,158 --> 00:32:33,575
(soft music)
453
00:32:37,170 --> 00:32:39,493
Here, supply pipes need to be laid.
454
00:33:12,051 --> 00:33:16,028
(Mohammed Abdul speaking in a foreign language)
455
00:33:16,028 --> 00:33:17,750
Mohammed Abdul is the boss,
456
00:33:17,750 --> 00:33:20,050
it's been his job for over 20 years now
457
00:33:20,050 --> 00:33:22,930
to keep patching up the streets of Dakha.
458
00:33:30,700 --> 00:33:33,140
Everyone who passes by here curses us,
459
00:33:33,140 --> 00:33:35,573
the traffic jam is our fault, no one likes us.
460
00:33:44,202 --> 00:33:46,423
But you need to see that the street
461
00:33:46,423 --> 00:33:48,333
is very dangerous for us too.
462
00:33:50,204 --> 00:33:53,004
If a car comes and falls into the ditch, we're all dead.
463
00:33:55,202 --> 00:33:56,593
We need to be careful,
464
00:33:57,507 --> 00:34:00,538
but we also have our work to do of course.
465
00:34:00,538 --> 00:34:03,538
(loud horn honking)
466
00:34:05,728 --> 00:34:08,728
(people chattering)
467
00:34:19,143 --> 00:34:21,470
Badshed has delivered his load,
468
00:34:21,470 --> 00:34:24,630
it's time for a break and a cup of tea at his station.
469
00:34:24,630 --> 00:34:27,391
Tea is only a few cents.
470
00:34:27,391 --> 00:34:31,474
(speaking in a foreign language)
471
00:34:37,483 --> 00:34:39,468
I just arrived here from Vilistan,
472
00:34:39,468 --> 00:34:40,301
what a traffic jam.
473
00:34:40,301 --> 00:34:42,165
Were the traffic police after you?
474
00:34:42,165 --> 00:34:42,998
No, but one of them tried.
475
00:34:42,998 --> 00:34:45,009
Luckily he didn't catch me.
476
00:34:45,009 --> 00:34:48,926
(speaking in foreign language)
477
00:34:55,790 --> 00:34:57,600
When talking to a colleague
478
00:34:57,600 --> 00:35:00,340
Badshed quickly gets to the favorite subjects
479
00:35:00,340 --> 00:35:04,280
of all rickshaw drivers, the street, the traffic jam
480
00:35:04,280 --> 00:35:05,833
and the police assaults.
481
00:35:07,185 --> 00:35:11,268
(speaking in a foreign language)
482
00:35:15,401 --> 00:35:17,530
You better be off, back to your stuff
483
00:35:17,530 --> 00:35:19,343
and have the police beat you up.
484
00:35:21,724 --> 00:35:23,400
You want me to get beaten up?
485
00:35:23,400 --> 00:35:24,290
Once they beat you up,
486
00:35:24,290 --> 00:35:25,460
you give them 10 cents,
487
00:35:25,460 --> 00:35:26,700
that's how much this is.
488
00:35:26,700 --> 00:35:28,610
So I'm to pay for getting beaten up?
489
00:35:28,610 --> 00:35:30,511
Yeah, but afterwards.
490
00:35:30,511 --> 00:35:32,928
(soft music)
491
00:35:42,479 --> 00:35:43,312
Meanwhile Azeem
492
00:35:43,312 --> 00:35:46,080
has arrived on the outskirts of the city.
493
00:35:46,080 --> 00:35:49,440
He's taking a lorry driver to his station.
494
00:35:49,440 --> 00:35:51,793
His shift only starts after dark,
495
00:35:52,850 --> 00:35:56,533
during the day lorries are banned on Dakha's streets.
496
00:35:58,123 --> 00:36:00,540
(soft music)
497
00:36:03,255 --> 00:36:05,330
(speaking in a foreign language)
498
00:36:05,330 --> 00:36:08,470
Mohammed Amjhad Hosein mainly carries
499
00:36:08,470 --> 00:36:10,763
bricks to the building sites of the city.
500
00:36:14,700 --> 00:36:17,970
The brickyards are outside the city gates.
501
00:36:17,970 --> 00:36:20,450
The stones are taken to the loading station
502
00:36:20,450 --> 00:36:22,853
on barges and unloaded by hand.
503
00:36:30,544 --> 00:36:34,627
(speaking in a foreign language)
504
00:36:38,570 --> 00:36:41,540
Driver Amjhad also employs helpers
505
00:36:41,540 --> 00:36:44,033
who accompany him on all trips.
506
00:36:46,885 --> 00:36:50,410
(speaking in a foreign language)
507
00:36:50,410 --> 00:36:51,900
When I was still driving during the day
508
00:36:51,900 --> 00:36:53,350
there were many traffic jams,
509
00:36:55,743 --> 00:36:57,880
sometimes I had to wait for hours.
510
00:36:57,880 --> 00:37:00,530
At night it's not so bad, and it's not so hot either.
511
00:37:04,870 --> 00:37:07,620
It's not entirely safe at night, there are youth gangs.
512
00:37:12,042 --> 00:37:13,940
A colleague of mine was robbed recently.
513
00:37:13,940 --> 00:37:15,890
They took his cell phone and his money.
514
00:37:17,365 --> 00:37:19,948
(loud tapping)
515
00:37:25,700 --> 00:37:27,820
Once the lorry is loaded up,
516
00:37:27,820 --> 00:37:30,030
Amjhad has to wait for nightfall,
517
00:37:30,030 --> 00:37:31,863
only then can he make a start.
518
00:37:33,528 --> 00:37:35,880
(people chattering)
519
00:37:35,880 --> 00:37:38,173
But there is always stuff to do,
520
00:37:39,014 --> 00:37:41,172
or have a chat with colleagues.
521
00:37:41,172 --> 00:37:44,005
(engine rumbling)
522
00:37:45,736 --> 00:37:49,819
(speaking in a foreign language)
523
00:37:55,260 --> 00:38:00,243
Dusk falls over the city, finally he can leave.
524
00:38:01,096 --> 00:38:03,513
(rock music)
525
00:38:06,971 --> 00:38:09,070
(siren wailing)
526
00:38:09,070 --> 00:38:13,160
The traffic in the city won't calm down in the coming hours.
527
00:38:23,384 --> 00:38:25,537
(people yelling)
528
00:38:25,537 --> 00:38:28,287
(music thumping)
529
00:38:34,765 --> 00:38:37,348
(horn honking)
530
00:38:43,803 --> 00:38:46,553
(engine roaring)
531
00:38:47,510 --> 00:38:49,740
Slowly Amjhad and his lorry
532
00:38:49,740 --> 00:38:51,440
make their way to the city center.
533
00:38:55,340 --> 00:38:57,757
(rock music)
534
00:39:01,870 --> 00:39:06,360
Like every evening there is an invasion of lorries.
535
00:39:06,360 --> 00:39:08,160
At night they supply the city
536
00:39:08,160 --> 00:39:10,623
with everything it needs to stay alive.
537
00:39:12,143 --> 00:39:14,560
(rock music)
538
00:39:19,161 --> 00:39:21,744
(loud honking)
539
00:39:26,888 --> 00:39:30,059
Now they have taken over the streets.
540
00:39:30,059 --> 00:39:32,476
(loud music)
541
00:39:55,463 --> 00:39:57,810
Amjhad has reached the building site
542
00:39:57,810 --> 00:39:59,793
and has his men unload the lorry.
543
00:40:16,903 --> 00:40:19,649
(speaking in a foreign language)
544
00:40:19,649 --> 00:40:20,560
There's no point if I'm the only one
545
00:40:20,560 --> 00:40:22,540
who sticks to the highway code.
546
00:40:22,540 --> 00:40:24,890
Everyone needs to observe it or it's pointless.
547
00:40:27,880 --> 00:40:30,600
Once an accident has happened, it's all too late anyway.
548
00:40:30,600 --> 00:40:32,780
You get beaten up or thrown in jail.
549
00:40:32,780 --> 00:40:33,820
If I think about that,
550
00:40:33,820 --> 00:40:35,970
I don't actually feel like driving anymore.
551
00:40:43,908 --> 00:40:46,325
(rock music)
552
00:41:16,630 --> 00:41:19,093
It's already past midnight.
553
00:41:20,000 --> 00:41:22,840
Even though Badshed is on his way to bed,
554
00:41:22,840 --> 00:41:24,537
the city never sleeps.
555
00:41:26,487 --> 00:41:30,487
(singing in a foreign language)
556
00:41:52,570 --> 00:41:55,560
The man who rents out the rickshaw to Badshed
557
00:41:55,560 --> 00:41:58,443
keeps his humble belongings in a cupboard for him.
558
00:42:00,806 --> 00:42:03,223
(soft music)
559
00:42:05,440 --> 00:42:07,970
Late at night the rickshaw drivers
560
00:42:07,970 --> 00:42:10,410
make their bed on their bikes.
561
00:42:10,410 --> 00:42:13,980
The streets of Dakha have become Badshed's home,
562
00:42:13,980 --> 00:42:15,523
day and night.
563
00:42:16,950 --> 00:42:19,367
(soft music)
564
00:42:23,910 --> 00:42:27,993
(speaking in a foreign language)
565
00:42:38,285 --> 00:42:40,868
(bell ringing)
566
00:42:44,802 --> 00:42:47,219
(soft music)
41988
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