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These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated: 1 00:00:00,251 --> 00:00:05,251 (soft music) (train hooting) 2 00:00:08,971 --> 00:00:10,810 (train engine revving) 3 00:00:10,810 --> 00:00:13,350 As if a model train had come to life 4 00:00:13,350 --> 00:00:15,750 in the forefront bellies of Sichuan 5 00:00:15,750 --> 00:00:18,120 life follows its own rhythm, 6 00:00:18,120 --> 00:00:21,515 somewhat more relaxed than elsewhere in China. 7 00:00:21,515 --> 00:00:24,570 (soft music) (train engine revving) 8 00:00:24,570 --> 00:00:28,040 A little steam train is the only means of transportation 9 00:00:28,040 --> 00:00:30,040 for the people around here. 10 00:00:30,040 --> 00:00:33,570 It's whistling, echoes through the ravines. 11 00:00:33,570 --> 00:00:35,220 There is no route here. 12 00:00:35,220 --> 00:00:37,790 Anyone wanting to go to the market or just visit 13 00:00:37,790 --> 00:00:41,453 the next Valley has to either walk or take the train. 14 00:00:42,752 --> 00:00:46,002 (train engine revving) 15 00:01:00,870 --> 00:01:05,870 Steep rock walls, rice terraces, hills and rivers. 16 00:01:05,920 --> 00:01:09,210 The little train fights its way over ascending slopes 17 00:01:09,210 --> 00:01:12,900 and back downhill around bans and through tunnels, 18 00:01:12,900 --> 00:01:16,101 skinning past the houses and right through the town. 19 00:01:16,101 --> 00:01:19,090 (train engine revving) (soft music) 20 00:01:19,090 --> 00:01:21,170 It's narrow gauge railway tracks 21 00:01:21,170 --> 00:01:24,480 are ideal for this impassable terrain here in Sichuan, 22 00:01:24,480 --> 00:01:27,853 in the heart of China, South of the mega city, Chengdu. 23 00:01:29,170 --> 00:01:31,330 The train route isn't very long 24 00:01:31,330 --> 00:01:35,000 but this approximately 20 kilometer stretch of railway track 25 00:01:35,000 --> 00:01:37,450 is the only connection to the outside world 26 00:01:37,450 --> 00:01:39,757 for the residents of the scattered villages. 27 00:01:39,757 --> 00:01:42,424 (train hooting) 28 00:01:47,170 --> 00:01:49,940 The little train always has right of way. 29 00:01:49,940 --> 00:01:53,190 (train engine revving) 30 00:02:02,940 --> 00:02:06,480 Whoever misses it has to drive over the railway tracks 31 00:02:06,480 --> 00:02:10,320 by motor bike, without a helmet of course, 32 00:02:10,320 --> 00:02:12,963 this way, it's easier to listen to the radio. 33 00:02:14,090 --> 00:02:17,590 The railway track is the main route for pedestrians too, 34 00:02:17,590 --> 00:02:19,320 because it is the only way to get 35 00:02:19,320 --> 00:02:21,280 through the forests and mountains. 36 00:02:21,280 --> 00:02:24,221 There is good reason for the train's constant whistling. 37 00:02:24,221 --> 00:02:27,140 (soft music) 38 00:02:27,140 --> 00:02:31,117 The train driver, Huáng She-Bin, starts his shift. 39 00:02:31,117 --> 00:02:34,350 "Go to work with joy and return in good health" 40 00:02:34,350 --> 00:02:36,650 is written on the entrance of the train depot. 41 00:02:39,550 --> 00:02:41,610 Huáng signs in for his shift. 42 00:02:41,610 --> 00:02:43,670 His colleague has already finished, 43 00:02:43,670 --> 00:02:46,610 he has heated up the engines that are about to be used. 44 00:02:46,610 --> 00:02:49,027 (soft music) 45 00:02:57,500 --> 00:03:00,960 Seven steam trains are constantly in operation. 46 00:03:00,960 --> 00:03:03,980 Even the switching moves at the Shixi station 47 00:03:03,980 --> 00:03:05,423 are powered by steam. 48 00:03:06,810 --> 00:03:09,120 Huáng She-Bin has to examine the locomotives 49 00:03:09,120 --> 00:03:11,530 thoroughly before departure. 50 00:03:11,530 --> 00:03:14,570 He completes an inspection round before every trip, 51 00:03:14,570 --> 00:03:18,223 as the trains are old and consists mainly of spare parts. 52 00:03:18,223 --> 00:03:22,473 (men speaking in foreign language) 53 00:03:23,502 --> 00:03:27,010 There's always something broken. 54 00:03:27,010 --> 00:03:28,713 I have to re-tighten the screws. 55 00:03:31,256 --> 00:03:33,928 (men speaking in foreign language) 56 00:03:33,928 --> 00:03:35,490 (water pouring) 57 00:03:35,490 --> 00:03:37,450 A vast amount of water is required 58 00:03:37,450 --> 00:03:38,840 to produce steam. 59 00:03:38,840 --> 00:03:42,343 Locomotive number 16 is flooded for minutes. 60 00:03:45,741 --> 00:03:47,110 (speaking in foreign language) 61 00:03:47,110 --> 00:03:49,603 This job wasn't my childhood dream. 62 00:03:50,470 --> 00:03:53,483 They were looking for train drivers and I applied. 63 00:03:54,520 --> 00:03:55,723 The work is quite hard. 64 00:03:58,360 --> 00:04:01,310 Huáng is going to drive the route twice today. 65 00:04:03,752 --> 00:04:05,950 (speaking in foreign language) 66 00:04:05,950 --> 00:04:07,440 We have a great responsibility 67 00:04:07,440 --> 00:04:09,450 as drivers, if an accident occurs, 68 00:04:09,450 --> 00:04:11,350 they deduct the cost from our salaries. 69 00:04:11,350 --> 00:04:13,550 We have to be very attentive as we don't want anyone 70 00:04:13,550 --> 00:04:15,487 to be injured. 71 00:04:15,487 --> 00:04:20,487 (door opens) (coal clatters) 72 00:04:27,758 --> 00:04:30,350 Huáng She-Bin used to be a postman. 73 00:04:30,350 --> 00:04:32,760 He was trained for three months before he was allowed 74 00:04:32,760 --> 00:04:35,910 to take on sole responsibility as a train driver 75 00:04:35,910 --> 00:04:39,310 on China's last year round, regularly scheduled 76 00:04:39,310 --> 00:04:40,673 passenger steam train. 77 00:04:44,507 --> 00:04:49,507 (whistle blowing) (soft music) 78 00:04:49,870 --> 00:04:52,570 A particularly large crowd gathers on market day 79 00:04:52,570 --> 00:04:56,490 in Chongqing, at the Northern end of the terminal. 80 00:04:56,490 --> 00:04:58,790 The simple carriages are already full 81 00:04:58,790 --> 00:05:01,120 half an hour before departure. 82 00:05:01,120 --> 00:05:03,120 The farmers bring back their shopping goods 83 00:05:03,120 --> 00:05:05,410 to the villages of the Valley. 84 00:05:05,410 --> 00:05:09,860 Supplies, vegetables, live chickens and passengers, 85 00:05:09,860 --> 00:05:13,600 everything is squeezed in and skillfully stacked. 86 00:05:13,600 --> 00:05:17,750 (whistle blowing) (train horn hooting) 87 00:05:17,750 --> 00:05:20,220 Huáng will be driving back and forth along the route 88 00:05:20,220 --> 00:05:21,823 for two and a half hours. 89 00:05:24,750 --> 00:05:27,670 During the rapeseed flowering season and spring, 90 00:05:27,670 --> 00:05:30,730 the landscape looks as if a model maker had tipped over 91 00:05:30,730 --> 00:05:32,473 a tin of yellow paint. 92 00:05:32,473 --> 00:05:35,723 (train engine revving) 93 00:05:36,640 --> 00:05:40,250 Rice terraces, bamboo groves and banana trees, 94 00:05:40,250 --> 00:05:43,033 flourish between the rapeseed fields. 95 00:05:43,033 --> 00:05:46,950 (speaking in foreign language) 96 00:05:51,483 --> 00:05:52,740 (soft music) 97 00:05:52,740 --> 00:05:56,015 In Zhujiajiao, people have a lot of time. 98 00:05:56,015 --> 00:05:58,432 (soft music) 99 00:06:03,399 --> 00:06:05,890 Zhou Ping the butcher, has already been waiting 100 00:06:05,890 --> 00:06:09,300 for two hours, together with his colleague 101 00:06:09,300 --> 00:06:11,820 he wants to transport pigs to Bajiaogou. 102 00:06:11,820 --> 00:06:13,519 Finally the animals arrive, 103 00:06:13,519 --> 00:06:18,519 (soft music) (train engine revving) 104 00:06:21,280 --> 00:06:23,662 and so does the train one hour later. 105 00:06:23,662 --> 00:06:26,912 (train engine revving) 106 00:06:28,100 --> 00:06:30,843 There are no separate carriages for the animals. 107 00:06:32,268 --> 00:06:35,550 (pigs grunting) 108 00:06:35,550 --> 00:06:38,660 A separate compartment is created in the passenger carriage 109 00:06:38,660 --> 00:06:40,213 with the help of a gate. 110 00:06:42,684 --> 00:06:45,184 (gate closes) 111 00:06:46,742 --> 00:06:47,720 (speaking in foreign language) 112 00:06:47,720 --> 00:06:48,553 We bought these pigs 113 00:06:48,553 --> 00:06:51,380 from the local farmers were taking them to Bajiaogou now. 114 00:06:52,350 --> 00:06:55,660 No glass in the windows, simple wooden benches, 115 00:06:55,660 --> 00:07:00,660 bare metal walls and occasionally pigs in the carriage. 116 00:07:00,760 --> 00:07:03,390 The little train is not really comfortable. 117 00:07:03,390 --> 00:07:06,360 The pigs are going to be slaughtered in Bajiaogou, 118 00:07:06,360 --> 00:07:08,393 their meat will be sold on the market. 119 00:07:09,490 --> 00:07:11,810 Whoever comes from the Valley to shop there 120 00:07:11,810 --> 00:07:14,950 will be traveling with Huáng or one of his colleagues. 121 00:07:14,950 --> 00:07:18,612 A regional commodity cycle powered by steam. 122 00:07:18,612 --> 00:07:21,862 (train engine revving) 123 00:07:27,260 --> 00:07:30,590 Mountain bikes, furniture, livestock, 124 00:07:30,590 --> 00:07:33,963 the little train is indispensable in this Valley. 125 00:07:34,880 --> 00:07:38,540 For the pigs, the journey continues at breakneck speed. 126 00:07:38,540 --> 00:07:41,980 Bajiaogou is the second to last stop for the train, 127 00:07:41,980 --> 00:07:46,220 but for the animals, it is literally the end of the line. 128 00:07:46,220 --> 00:07:49,810 Xin Ping, drives them forward with a bamboo stick. 129 00:07:49,810 --> 00:07:52,190 At the town square chairman Mao 130 00:07:52,190 --> 00:07:54,690 is emblazoned above the propaganda stage 131 00:07:54,690 --> 00:07:57,438 that dates back to the cultural revolution. 132 00:07:57,438 --> 00:07:59,855 (soft music) 133 00:08:11,495 --> 00:08:14,260 Bajiaogou means banana forest, 134 00:08:14,260 --> 00:08:18,110 an enchanting place almost frozen in time. 135 00:08:18,110 --> 00:08:20,380 Not long ago in the 1940s, 136 00:08:20,380 --> 00:08:21,900 this little shopping street built 137 00:08:21,900 --> 00:08:24,350 by an Anglo-Chinese mining company 138 00:08:24,350 --> 00:08:27,980 used to house opium dens and brothels. 139 00:08:27,980 --> 00:08:31,480 Today, the little town seems like an open air museum 140 00:08:31,480 --> 00:08:33,116 representing traditional China. 141 00:08:33,116 --> 00:08:38,033 (dog barking) (cock crows) 142 00:08:43,300 --> 00:08:46,690 In the Hills above Bajiaogou peasants live as they have done 143 00:08:46,690 --> 00:08:49,620 for centuries, growing rice and vegetables 144 00:08:49,620 --> 00:08:51,811 from every available piece of land. 145 00:08:51,811 --> 00:08:54,228 (soft music) 146 00:08:58,160 --> 00:09:01,747 It's early morning and Wong Qishan has already harvested. 147 00:09:01,747 --> 00:09:06,580 (soft music) (cock crows) 148 00:09:09,750 --> 00:09:13,010 Peasant woman Wong, runs the farm with her husband. 149 00:09:13,010 --> 00:09:15,910 Their daughter is already grown up. 150 00:09:15,910 --> 00:09:19,030 She wants to sell her vegetables at Zhuhai market, 151 00:09:19,030 --> 00:09:22,583 the basket can weigh up to 20 kilos when it's fully loaded. 152 00:09:24,600 --> 00:09:26,520 It takes her more than half an hour 153 00:09:26,520 --> 00:09:28,988 to walk down the hill to the train station. 154 00:09:28,988 --> 00:09:31,405 (soft music) 155 00:09:40,120 --> 00:09:43,220 The dainty Wong balances the basket effortlessly 156 00:09:43,220 --> 00:09:45,300 as she weaves her way along the clay walls 157 00:09:45,300 --> 00:09:50,300 of the Patty fields. This, is her regular commute. 158 00:09:50,780 --> 00:09:53,860 There is a little daily market in Bajiaogou, 159 00:09:53,860 --> 00:09:57,380 but once a week, peasant woman Wong also sells her goods 160 00:09:57,380 --> 00:09:59,260 at the big market in Zhuhai, 161 00:09:59,260 --> 00:10:01,260 which can only be reached by train. 162 00:10:01,260 --> 00:10:04,999 The Bajiaogou train station has recently been renovated. 163 00:10:04,999 --> 00:10:09,999 (people chanting) (speaking in foreign language) 164 00:10:10,248 --> 00:10:11,210 [Female Translator] For the little luck 165 00:10:11,210 --> 00:10:13,323 I get 51 for my chods. 166 00:10:16,500 --> 00:10:18,360 Wong needs to sell all the vegetables 167 00:10:18,360 --> 00:10:19,600 in her basket today, 168 00:10:19,600 --> 00:10:22,513 otherwise the journey to Zhuhai is not profitable. 169 00:10:23,360 --> 00:10:27,593 A one-way ticket costs her five yuan approximately 60 cents. 170 00:10:27,593 --> 00:10:30,843 (train engine revving) 171 00:10:42,972 --> 00:10:46,586 The tickets can be bought directly from the conductor. 172 00:10:46,586 --> 00:10:49,001 (speaking in foreign language) 173 00:10:49,001 --> 00:10:50,443 [Female Translator] I take the train to Zhuhai 174 00:10:50,443 --> 00:10:53,793 four times a month, I also shop there myself. 175 00:10:56,100 --> 00:10:57,443 Mostly seedlings. 176 00:10:59,840 --> 00:11:01,690 It takes Wong a little over one hour 177 00:11:01,690 --> 00:11:04,340 to get to Zhuhai, while more and more farmers 178 00:11:04,340 --> 00:11:07,013 squeeze into the carriages at every station. 179 00:11:13,280 --> 00:11:15,160 The engine house is also located 180 00:11:15,160 --> 00:11:17,310 in the market town of Zhuhai. 181 00:11:17,310 --> 00:11:20,260 The locomotives need constant repair and maintenance, 182 00:11:20,260 --> 00:11:22,683 bolting, welding, hammering. 183 00:11:23,520 --> 00:11:26,220 Morning meeting for the engine house team. 184 00:11:26,220 --> 00:11:29,626 The foreman explains what tasks need to be done today. 185 00:11:29,626 --> 00:11:33,543 (speaking in foreign language) 186 00:11:38,050 --> 00:11:41,900 Lu Chun Li is a mechanic toolmaker and engine fitter. 187 00:11:41,900 --> 00:11:44,827 One has to be a Jack of all trades around here. 188 00:11:44,827 --> 00:11:49,827 (tools clattering) (speaking in foreign language) 189 00:12:00,257 --> 00:12:03,674 [Female translator] I make spare parts. 190 00:12:09,430 --> 00:12:11,970 Lu Chun Li's inspections are as sharp 191 00:12:11,970 --> 00:12:15,087 as her cutting tools. (speaking in foreign language) 192 00:12:15,087 --> 00:12:17,370 [Female translator] This is going to be a bolt 193 00:12:17,370 --> 00:12:19,630 of the locomotive's control rod. 194 00:12:19,630 --> 00:12:21,480 I have to finish four of these today. 195 00:12:29,420 --> 00:12:32,220 The little train is the last steam train 196 00:12:32,220 --> 00:12:34,683 so you can't buy the spare parts anymore. 197 00:12:35,530 --> 00:12:39,363 That's why we make them ourselves, it's cheaper as well. 198 00:12:41,950 --> 00:12:43,310 Mechanic HiChoon, 199 00:12:43,310 --> 00:12:45,770 is going to put the part to the test. 200 00:12:45,770 --> 00:12:48,490 Do Chun Li's bolts fit precisely? 201 00:12:48,490 --> 00:12:50,700 These connecting parts transfer the whole power 202 00:12:50,700 --> 00:12:52,523 of the steam engine to the wheels. 203 00:12:53,620 --> 00:12:55,763 Chun Li's parts fit perfectly. 204 00:13:01,530 --> 00:13:03,590 The locomotives were built specially 205 00:13:03,590 --> 00:13:06,140 for the unique requirements of this route. 206 00:13:06,140 --> 00:13:09,083 Four pairs of little wheels lie close together. 207 00:13:12,860 --> 00:13:16,170 Schweitzer Gung is responsible for safety, 208 00:13:16,170 --> 00:13:19,347 he knows all the weak spots of the old train inside out 209 00:13:19,347 --> 00:13:22,686 and is aware of the parts that need double-checking. 210 00:13:22,686 --> 00:13:23,610 (speaking in foreign language) 211 00:13:23,610 --> 00:13:24,810 The short trains are good 212 00:13:24,810 --> 00:13:26,360 for this route. 213 00:13:26,360 --> 00:13:29,470 A regular train would be more than 70 meters long. 214 00:13:29,470 --> 00:13:31,700 The locomotive alone is more than 20 meters long. 215 00:13:31,700 --> 00:13:34,773 You wouldn't be able to drive around the bends very well. 216 00:13:35,940 --> 00:13:38,970 Our locomotives are only 14 meters long, 217 00:13:38,970 --> 00:13:41,443 they don't have any trouble with the narrow bends. 218 00:13:44,320 --> 00:13:45,810 For decades the building plans 219 00:13:45,810 --> 00:13:48,910 were considered lost and when the files reappeared, 220 00:13:48,910 --> 00:13:50,880 no one recognized their value. 221 00:13:50,880 --> 00:13:52,410 The president of the mining company 222 00:13:52,410 --> 00:13:54,623 is still angry about it today. 223 00:13:54,623 --> 00:13:56,470 (speaking in foreign language) 224 00:13:56,470 --> 00:13:57,480 Five years ago, 225 00:13:57,480 --> 00:14:01,080 a professor at China's mining and technology University 226 00:14:01,080 --> 00:14:03,373 found the files in a Taiwanese Nyberg. 227 00:14:04,980 --> 00:14:08,140 He called us to ask if we wanted a copy, 228 00:14:08,140 --> 00:14:11,963 unfortunately at the time we thought we didn't need them. 229 00:14:13,615 --> 00:14:15,100 (train engine revving) 230 00:14:15,100 --> 00:14:17,440 Over the years almost every single component 231 00:14:17,440 --> 00:14:20,810 of the locomotives has been replaced at some point. 232 00:14:20,810 --> 00:14:24,440 Today's locomotives are masterpieces of metal fitting, 233 00:14:24,440 --> 00:14:28,120 pieced together from spare parts made individually by hand, 234 00:14:28,120 --> 00:14:30,593 mostly without an exact design. 235 00:14:31,850 --> 00:14:35,430 Right next to the engine house lies the market of Zhuhai, 236 00:14:35,430 --> 00:14:37,430 the biggest one in this region. 237 00:14:37,430 --> 00:14:40,130 The moon calendar determines the market days, 238 00:14:40,130 --> 00:14:42,452 it takes place about nine times a month. 239 00:14:42,452 --> 00:14:45,035 (upbeat music) 240 00:14:48,270 --> 00:14:51,530 Peasant woman Wong is late. The train was late. 241 00:14:51,530 --> 00:14:54,960 All the good selling spots are taken already. 242 00:14:54,960 --> 00:14:57,080 She squeezes in between motorbikes 243 00:14:57,080 --> 00:14:59,200 in front of a newly opened store. 244 00:14:59,200 --> 00:15:01,490 Nevertheless, she doesn't have to wait long 245 00:15:01,490 --> 00:15:04,537 for the first customer, a good omen for the day. 246 00:15:04,537 --> 00:15:09,537 (upbeat music) (people chanting) 247 00:15:14,590 --> 00:15:16,830 At Zhuhai market, you can buy anything 248 00:15:16,830 --> 00:15:19,860 that might be considered a feast for Chinese pallets. 249 00:15:19,860 --> 00:15:23,260 However, more likely to be an acquired taste 250 00:15:23,260 --> 00:15:25,480 for most Westerners. 251 00:15:25,480 --> 00:15:29,670 A special breed is much sought after at the poultry stall, 252 00:15:29,670 --> 00:15:34,670 black chickens, jet black after plucking to be more precise. 253 00:15:35,673 --> 00:15:38,256 (upbeat music) 254 00:15:41,230 --> 00:15:44,950 Charlatans, hairdressers, miracle workers 255 00:15:44,950 --> 00:15:46,453 and fortune tellers. 256 00:15:48,250 --> 00:15:50,130 They have arranged their camping tables 257 00:15:50,130 --> 00:15:52,370 on the outskirts of the market. 258 00:15:52,370 --> 00:15:56,500 For a few yuan you can hear what your future holds. 259 00:15:56,500 --> 00:15:59,240 Xing Fu Gaho is blind in one eye, 260 00:15:59,240 --> 00:16:01,913 a sure sign of competence for fortune tellers. 261 00:16:02,751 --> 00:16:03,980 (speaking in foreign language) 262 00:16:03,980 --> 00:16:06,230 I can see it clearly now. 263 00:16:07,700 --> 00:16:09,360 Young mothers particularly enjoy 264 00:16:09,360 --> 00:16:11,115 the consultation. 265 00:16:11,115 --> 00:16:12,310 (speaking in foreign language) 266 00:16:12,310 --> 00:16:15,140 Your boy is going to accomplish a lot. 267 00:16:15,140 --> 00:16:18,580 He was born this year at one o'clock in the morning 268 00:16:18,580 --> 00:16:21,503 on the 13th of the first moon calendar. 269 00:16:24,054 --> 00:16:26,860 Belithan omens, lucky charms and fortune tellers 270 00:16:26,860 --> 00:16:30,629 is very normal in China. Many live their lives accordingly. 271 00:16:30,629 --> 00:16:33,587 (speaking in foreign language) 272 00:16:33,587 --> 00:16:35,500 [Female Translator] He told me that my son doesn't have 273 00:16:35,500 --> 00:16:40,430 a patron God yet. Usually newborns have a patron God. 274 00:16:40,430 --> 00:16:44,597 We must find one now. I think this would be good for him. 275 00:16:44,597 --> 00:16:47,509 (speaking in foreign language) 276 00:16:47,509 --> 00:16:49,630 Everything is based on a principle 277 00:16:49,630 --> 00:16:51,200 of yin and yang. 278 00:16:51,200 --> 00:16:56,040 There are 10 heavenly stems and 12 earthly branches. 279 00:16:56,040 --> 00:16:59,750 According to this system and together with the best dates, 280 00:16:59,750 --> 00:17:01,583 I can foretell the future. 281 00:17:04,440 --> 00:17:05,400 Lu Chun Li, 282 00:17:05,400 --> 00:17:07,690 the mechanic from the engine house nearby 283 00:17:07,690 --> 00:17:09,530 is also at the market. 284 00:17:09,530 --> 00:17:13,263 She wants to buy pork legs for the team of mechanics. 285 00:17:13,263 --> 00:17:18,263 (speaking in foreign language) (people chanting) 286 00:17:20,450 --> 00:17:22,610 Lu examines the butchers displays 287 00:17:22,610 --> 00:17:26,480 with the scene-close inspection she uses to check her bolts. 288 00:17:26,480 --> 00:17:29,691 She only makes a bid at the third stall. 289 00:17:29,691 --> 00:17:33,608 (speaking in foreign language) 290 00:17:39,750 --> 00:17:43,010 Chun Li is going to prepare a very special dish, 291 00:17:43,010 --> 00:17:46,423 knuckle of pork, locomotive style so to speak. 292 00:17:47,440 --> 00:17:50,100 A hot pot meal in the truest sense of the word, 293 00:17:50,100 --> 00:17:54,530 it goes like this, you take a steam locomotive, 294 00:17:54,530 --> 00:17:57,595 preheat it to seven or 800 degrees. 295 00:17:57,595 --> 00:18:01,512 (speaking in foreign language) 296 00:18:04,090 --> 00:18:07,750 Open the oven, place the pork on top of the blazing embers 297 00:18:07,750 --> 00:18:11,273 with a tong and wait a few minutes. 298 00:18:18,510 --> 00:18:21,060 Locomotive driver Yang Yuan swears 299 00:18:21,060 --> 00:18:23,773 by the unique smoked aroma of this dish. 300 00:18:25,682 --> 00:18:27,140 (speaking in foreign language) 301 00:18:27,140 --> 00:18:29,490 Five to seven minutes in the oven, 302 00:18:29,490 --> 00:18:32,370 then the pork knuckle tastes much better. 303 00:18:32,370 --> 00:18:34,010 We often make it in winter, 304 00:18:34,010 --> 00:18:36,387 afterwards it also gets cooked for awhile. 305 00:18:40,240 --> 00:18:41,780 The mechanics have welded themselves 306 00:18:41,780 --> 00:18:44,500 a little oven so they can cook the meat. 307 00:18:44,500 --> 00:18:46,760 Conveniently enough, there is hot coal 308 00:18:46,760 --> 00:18:48,780 on every train that arrives. 309 00:18:48,780 --> 00:18:52,070 The thick layer of black suit is scraped off of course 310 00:18:52,070 --> 00:18:55,693 but the special locomotive aroma remains in the meat. 311 00:19:03,610 --> 00:19:06,903 Chun Li cuts the pork into pieces before she cooks it. 312 00:19:10,856 --> 00:19:11,918 (speaking in foreign language) 313 00:19:11,918 --> 00:19:12,751 [Female translator] This pork dish 314 00:19:12,751 --> 00:19:15,940 out of the locomotive oven is so popular in winter 315 00:19:15,940 --> 00:19:17,440 because it gives you strength. 316 00:19:19,570 --> 00:19:21,450 The skin gets a very special taste 317 00:19:21,450 --> 00:19:22,963 from burning it in the oven. 318 00:19:24,600 --> 00:19:27,450 Now the meat will get cooked for another hour. 319 00:19:27,450 --> 00:19:29,362 Altogether it takes about two hours 320 00:19:29,362 --> 00:19:31,563 until the dish is ready to be served. 321 00:19:32,449 --> 00:19:36,366 (speaking in foreign language) 322 00:19:38,420 --> 00:19:40,000 The cooking happens right in the middle 323 00:19:40,000 --> 00:19:41,470 of the engine house. 324 00:19:41,470 --> 00:19:43,380 It was built for steam trains, 325 00:19:43,380 --> 00:19:46,193 so a little smoke is really not a problem. 326 00:19:49,903 --> 00:19:52,486 (soup pouring) 327 00:19:54,380 --> 00:19:57,460 The special flavor enhancer is so strong 328 00:19:57,460 --> 00:20:00,092 that no other spices are necessary. 329 00:20:00,092 --> 00:20:04,009 (speaking in foreign language) 330 00:20:09,390 --> 00:20:11,180 The employees of the engine house 331 00:20:11,180 --> 00:20:13,000 don't need to be asked twice 332 00:20:13,000 --> 00:20:16,602 and eat the hot pot meal with visible appetite. 333 00:20:16,602 --> 00:20:20,519 (speaking in foreign language) 334 00:20:27,255 --> 00:20:32,255 (train engine revving) (soft music) 335 00:20:38,280 --> 00:20:42,350 Steady companions of the little train, the coal collectors. 336 00:20:42,350 --> 00:20:45,400 When the locomotive throws out ashes from time to time, 337 00:20:45,400 --> 00:20:47,340 there is always a lot of coal in it 338 00:20:47,340 --> 00:20:49,380 that hasn't finished burning yet. 339 00:20:49,380 --> 00:20:52,150 A valuable resource for heating and cooking. 340 00:20:52,150 --> 00:20:54,841 Not a single small piece gets lost. 341 00:20:54,841 --> 00:20:59,841 (soft music) (speaking in foreign language) 342 00:21:08,460 --> 00:21:11,670 The little train has to conquer 108 bends 343 00:21:11,670 --> 00:21:14,680 and climb 238 meters in altitude. 344 00:21:14,680 --> 00:21:17,380 The difficult terrain is also the main reason 345 00:21:17,380 --> 00:21:19,850 why there is still no road connecting the villages 346 00:21:19,850 --> 00:21:23,410 to this day and even the school can only be reached 347 00:21:23,410 --> 00:21:26,343 on foot, by motorbike or by train. 348 00:21:26,343 --> 00:21:28,760 (soft music) 349 00:21:30,010 --> 00:21:33,170 When the children at the school of Sahiba read out loud, 350 00:21:33,170 --> 00:21:35,373 it echoes through the whole Valley. 351 00:21:36,268 --> 00:21:39,935 (children's voices echoing) 352 00:21:46,470 --> 00:21:48,430 There are six classes here. 353 00:21:48,430 --> 00:21:51,180 The primary school is responsible for all the children 354 00:21:51,180 --> 00:21:53,730 from the villages within a wide radius around here. 355 00:21:55,640 --> 00:21:58,810 Jinja Hui is 11, like all the children here, 356 00:21:58,810 --> 00:22:02,770 she is hardworking, disciplined, and hungry for knowledge. 357 00:22:02,770 --> 00:22:05,196 Their teacher's name is Ms. Payne. 358 00:22:05,196 --> 00:22:06,029 (speaking in foreign language) 359 00:22:06,029 --> 00:22:08,270 [Female translator] I live in Bajiaogou, 360 00:22:08,270 --> 00:22:10,970 every morning I take the train to school 361 00:22:10,970 --> 00:22:12,570 on the way back, I have to walk. 362 00:22:14,550 --> 00:22:16,570 Most of the children have to walk too, 363 00:22:16,570 --> 00:22:18,680 walk very far. 364 00:22:18,680 --> 00:22:21,000 The train doesn't come as often as it used to 365 00:22:21,000 --> 00:22:23,880 and the schedule is inconvenient. 366 00:22:23,880 --> 00:22:24,980 Therefore many of the students 367 00:22:24,980 --> 00:22:27,812 have to walk up to two hours, one way. 368 00:22:27,812 --> 00:22:28,645 (speaking in foreign language) 369 00:22:28,645 --> 00:22:31,237 [Female translator] This is really hard for the children, 370 00:22:32,140 --> 00:22:36,610 especially in the summer, then they often get soaking wet. 371 00:22:36,610 --> 00:22:41,370 When the sun is scorching and it gets very hot around here, 372 00:22:41,370 --> 00:22:45,840 it's hard and dangerous, it's really not easy for the kids. 373 00:22:45,840 --> 00:22:49,757 (speaking in foreign language) 374 00:22:50,809 --> 00:22:53,090 School is out in the early afternoon. 375 00:22:53,090 --> 00:22:55,560 A few children are picked up with a moped-head, 376 00:22:55,560 --> 00:22:58,681 but for most of them, a long walk begins. 377 00:22:58,681 --> 00:23:00,788 Jinja Hui is on her own. 378 00:23:00,788 --> 00:23:03,205 (soft music) 379 00:23:10,610 --> 00:23:12,760 Two hours to the furthest station 380 00:23:12,760 --> 00:23:16,870 with worn out shoes over the railway tracks every day, 381 00:23:16,870 --> 00:23:19,030 no matter what the weather is like, 382 00:23:19,030 --> 00:23:21,529 she has to pass through four tunnels. 383 00:23:21,529 --> 00:23:24,370 (motorbike engine revving) 384 00:23:24,370 --> 00:23:26,530 She knows the train schedule by heart 385 00:23:26,530 --> 00:23:28,514 but some trains come unannounced. 386 00:23:28,514 --> 00:23:32,304 (train engine revving) 387 00:23:32,304 --> 00:23:34,794 [Female translator] I walk through them all on my own. 388 00:23:34,794 --> 00:23:39,794 (train engine revving) (horn hooting) 389 00:23:49,290 --> 00:23:50,870 A security guard is positioned 390 00:23:50,870 --> 00:23:52,600 in front of the longest tunnel. 391 00:23:52,600 --> 00:23:55,513 Here you can't see the other end of the tunnel at first. 392 00:23:57,473 --> 00:23:58,306 (speaking in foreign language) 393 00:23:58,306 --> 00:24:00,060 It's my task not to let anyone 394 00:24:00,060 --> 00:24:02,900 into the tunnel when a train is about to arrive. 395 00:24:02,900 --> 00:24:04,200 I'm in charge of security. 396 00:24:05,305 --> 00:24:08,555 (train engine revving) 397 00:24:10,514 --> 00:24:11,347 (speaking in foreign language) 398 00:24:11,347 --> 00:24:12,640 [Female translator] At first I was very scared 399 00:24:12,640 --> 00:24:14,480 to enter the tunnel. 400 00:24:14,480 --> 00:24:17,223 I get up so early that it's still dark outside. 401 00:24:18,220 --> 00:24:19,733 I was scared to fall over. 402 00:24:21,255 --> 00:24:24,210 (water pouring) 403 00:24:24,210 --> 00:24:26,260 The torchlight is an essential item 404 00:24:26,260 --> 00:24:27,840 in her school bag. 405 00:24:27,840 --> 00:24:30,520 Jinja Hui lives literally only an arm's length away 406 00:24:30,520 --> 00:24:33,380 from the railway tracks and the train to school 407 00:24:33,380 --> 00:24:35,500 drives right past her house, 408 00:24:35,500 --> 00:24:38,123 unfortunately, not at the right time. 409 00:24:39,310 --> 00:24:42,950 The soot of the steam train blackens the kitchen walls. 410 00:24:42,950 --> 00:24:46,720 After her long march Jinja Hui gets a bowl of rice first, 411 00:24:46,720 --> 00:24:48,570 and then there's homework to be done. 412 00:24:54,722 --> 00:24:55,689 (speaking in foreign language) 413 00:24:55,689 --> 00:24:57,380 [Female translator] Everyday after school, 414 00:24:57,380 --> 00:25:00,183 I have to do one to two pages of homework. 415 00:25:01,580 --> 00:25:04,510 I think I need about a half an hour for that. 416 00:25:04,510 --> 00:25:08,427 (speaking in foreign language) 417 00:25:10,018 --> 00:25:12,435 (soft music) 418 00:25:24,043 --> 00:25:27,210 A few hundred meters behind Ja Hui's house 419 00:25:27,210 --> 00:25:29,520 an old mine head tower, reminds one 420 00:25:29,520 --> 00:25:31,720 of the beginnings of the little train. 421 00:25:31,720 --> 00:25:35,790 The coal mine of Huangcunjing was closed long ago. 422 00:25:35,790 --> 00:25:38,370 Nevertheless for Mao was great leap forward. 423 00:25:38,370 --> 00:25:40,460 The forced industrialization of the country 424 00:25:40,460 --> 00:25:43,540 at the end of the 1950s, steel and coal 425 00:25:43,540 --> 00:25:45,920 were needed in vast amounts. 426 00:25:45,920 --> 00:25:48,530 Railway tracks were built to transport the coal 427 00:25:48,530 --> 00:25:50,500 irrespective of the terrain. 428 00:25:50,500 --> 00:25:53,563 The little train started out as a coal transporter. 429 00:25:56,217 --> 00:25:57,050 (train horn hooting) 430 00:25:57,050 --> 00:25:58,800 At the other end of the line, in Shixi, 431 00:25:58,800 --> 00:26:00,700 coal train still exist today. 432 00:26:00,700 --> 00:26:04,470 Now they run on electricity and serve another mine, 433 00:26:04,470 --> 00:26:07,090 for Lee Cha Chan, it was heavy labor 434 00:26:07,090 --> 00:26:09,490 to build the railway tracks for the steam train. 435 00:26:14,802 --> 00:26:16,370 (speaking in foreign language) 436 00:26:16,370 --> 00:26:19,510 We build all this with pure manpower. 437 00:26:19,510 --> 00:26:22,690 Machines didn't exist with modern machine really 438 00:26:22,690 --> 00:26:26,677 railway tracks could have been built much faster of course. 439 00:26:29,725 --> 00:26:33,850 For every little section, hundreds of workers were needed. 440 00:26:33,850 --> 00:26:37,150 We had to carry the railway sleepers on our shoulders 441 00:26:37,150 --> 00:26:39,275 and screwed them together by hand. 442 00:26:39,275 --> 00:26:43,192 (speaking in foreign language) 443 00:26:44,250 --> 00:26:48,500 We slept on simple beds made of rice straw, 444 00:26:48,500 --> 00:26:52,140 sometimes under roofs made of banana leaves, 445 00:26:52,140 --> 00:26:54,413 sometimes at farmers' houses. 446 00:26:55,660 --> 00:26:57,933 They kept their pigs next to us. 447 00:26:58,880 --> 00:27:01,230 Many just slept outside in the open air 448 00:27:01,230 --> 00:27:03,143 with only a blanket to cover them. 449 00:27:04,320 --> 00:27:07,002 That's how it used to be back then. 450 00:27:07,002 --> 00:27:10,638 Actually, we were quite content with that. 451 00:27:10,638 --> 00:27:12,980 (speaking in foreign language) 452 00:27:12,980 --> 00:27:15,090 Lee Cha Chan is completely content 453 00:27:15,090 --> 00:27:19,320 with his life, although most of it consisted of heavy labor. 454 00:27:19,320 --> 00:27:20,960 When the railway track was finished 455 00:27:20,960 --> 00:27:23,296 he went underground to mine. 456 00:27:23,296 --> 00:27:24,520 (speaking in foreign language) 457 00:27:24,520 --> 00:27:25,960 When we build the tracks, 458 00:27:25,960 --> 00:27:28,890 everyone was given 200 grams of rice each day 459 00:27:28,890 --> 00:27:31,300 and a little something on the side, 460 00:27:31,300 --> 00:27:33,560 mostly cabbage soup with cooked radish 461 00:27:33,560 --> 00:27:36,610 or radish soup with cooked cabbage. 462 00:27:36,610 --> 00:27:38,940 We were really starving sometimes we went 463 00:27:38,940 --> 00:27:42,680 and looked for wild herbs or grasses during our breaks. 464 00:27:42,680 --> 00:27:45,630 That was very different compared to today, 465 00:27:45,630 --> 00:27:48,070 where no one has to starve anymore. 466 00:27:48,070 --> 00:27:51,240 The railway track is just a stone's throw away, 467 00:27:51,240 --> 00:27:53,260 the track section for which he worked 468 00:27:53,260 --> 00:27:57,140 almost to complete exhaustion lies shortly before Bajiaogou, 469 00:27:57,140 --> 00:27:59,283 only one hour away by steam train. 470 00:28:01,440 --> 00:28:03,210 Maybe it is due to the experience 471 00:28:03,210 --> 00:28:05,650 of life-threatening hunger for years, 472 00:28:05,650 --> 00:28:08,400 although he lives in a modern flat in the city, 473 00:28:08,400 --> 00:28:10,730 Lee Cha Chan still stocks food 474 00:28:10,730 --> 00:28:13,763 and keeps live chickens in his bedroom. 475 00:28:20,005 --> 00:28:22,670 (speaking in foreign language) 476 00:28:22,670 --> 00:28:26,060 No, I never went back there, not once. 477 00:28:26,060 --> 00:28:27,598 If I think of Bajiaogou, 478 00:28:27,598 --> 00:28:31,620 then I have to think of the very hard work we had to do. 479 00:28:31,620 --> 00:28:34,491 I remember every hill slope and every house. 480 00:28:34,491 --> 00:28:36,703 Well, it's not far from here. 481 00:28:38,703 --> 00:28:40,130 I could just take the little train 482 00:28:40,130 --> 00:28:42,090 but I've gone through too much down there, 483 00:28:42,090 --> 00:28:44,673 no, I don't even want to go there again. 484 00:28:47,930 --> 00:28:49,890 The construction of the railway tracks 485 00:28:49,890 --> 00:28:52,660 happened at the time of Mao's great leap forward. 486 00:28:52,660 --> 00:28:56,410 Industrialization without consideration of possible damage 487 00:28:56,410 --> 00:28:59,623 followed by the longest period of starvation in history. 488 00:29:00,560 --> 00:29:03,210 Building the line with a narrow gauge rail tracks 489 00:29:03,210 --> 00:29:07,270 into the impassable train costs many lives. 490 00:29:07,270 --> 00:29:08,980 Already in 1959, 491 00:29:08,980 --> 00:29:12,071 the first locomotive was sent on its journey. 492 00:29:12,071 --> 00:29:13,080 (speaking in foreign language) 493 00:29:13,080 --> 00:29:15,150 When I dare to do the very first journey 494 00:29:15,150 --> 00:29:16,740 in this newly built route, 495 00:29:16,740 --> 00:29:19,740 it took me three days to complete 20 kilometers, 496 00:29:19,740 --> 00:29:22,860 three days, I slept under a locomotive, 497 00:29:22,860 --> 00:29:26,160 I was simply too scared to drive faster. 498 00:29:26,160 --> 00:29:31,160 The track was awful and too soft, it jolted terribly. 499 00:29:31,960 --> 00:29:35,877 (speaking in foreign language) 500 00:29:38,009 --> 00:29:40,220 Today, Chan lives down by the river. 501 00:29:40,220 --> 00:29:42,810 He used to drive the coal loads here for shipping, 502 00:29:42,810 --> 00:29:44,550 back then his mother starved to death 503 00:29:44,550 --> 00:29:46,340 right in front of his eyes. 504 00:29:46,340 --> 00:29:48,180 He was only saved by the scraps of food 505 00:29:48,180 --> 00:29:50,210 they got from the mining company. 506 00:29:50,210 --> 00:29:52,900 The local people feel such a strong attachment 507 00:29:52,900 --> 00:29:54,560 to the little train as a result 508 00:29:54,560 --> 00:29:56,623 of the extremely hard times they endured. 509 00:29:57,604 --> 00:29:59,040 (speaking in foreign language) 510 00:29:59,040 --> 00:30:00,680 My love for the little train 511 00:30:00,680 --> 00:30:02,130 will never die. 512 00:30:02,130 --> 00:30:05,330 It was very hard work and very, very hot. 513 00:30:05,330 --> 00:30:08,470 Some locomotive drivers were discouraged by that, 514 00:30:08,470 --> 00:30:12,620 I wasn't, the little train will always have a special place 515 00:30:12,620 --> 00:30:13,453 in my heart. 516 00:30:17,840 --> 00:30:20,770 Sometimes I still dream of standing in the locomotive 517 00:30:20,770 --> 00:30:21,983 and driving the train. 518 00:30:23,777 --> 00:30:26,430 I dreamt that only two days ago, 519 00:30:26,430 --> 00:30:29,780 I prepared everything and started the engine. 520 00:30:29,780 --> 00:30:34,180 Today, the students of my students drive the train 521 00:30:34,180 --> 00:30:36,400 and they still know who I am. 522 00:30:36,400 --> 00:30:39,047 When I visit the engine house, they say, 523 00:30:39,047 --> 00:30:42,407 "Master may I have a photo taken with you?" 524 00:30:44,330 --> 00:30:47,060 Today, the dramas of the past are partly taboo 525 00:30:47,060 --> 00:30:48,610 and partly entertainment, 526 00:30:48,610 --> 00:30:51,570 for the slowly growing domestic tourism. 527 00:30:51,570 --> 00:30:55,840 On the weekends Bajiaogou is hardly recognizable anymore, 528 00:30:55,840 --> 00:30:57,780 crowds of visitors. 529 00:30:57,780 --> 00:31:01,760 The red army uniforms are sold to the beat of techno music. 530 00:31:01,760 --> 00:31:04,100 Bajiaogou is the first town in the valley 531 00:31:04,100 --> 00:31:08,690 to have road access, even if only for special tourist buses. 532 00:31:08,690 --> 00:31:11,720 Mao's slogans are nothing more than a nice backdrop 533 00:31:11,720 --> 00:31:13,983 for food or for modern Chinese people. 534 00:31:14,940 --> 00:31:16,650 Guided groups travel on the same route 535 00:31:16,650 --> 00:31:18,320 as the locals usually do, 536 00:31:18,320 --> 00:31:20,380 but in much more comfortable carriages 537 00:31:20,380 --> 00:31:23,173 complete with glass windows and air conditioning. 538 00:31:24,714 --> 00:31:29,214 (train attendant speaking over radio) 539 00:31:36,050 --> 00:31:37,400 The tickets for these trains 540 00:31:37,400 --> 00:31:40,370 are exorbitant for the residents of the Valley. 541 00:31:40,370 --> 00:31:42,250 An urban and wealthy public, 542 00:31:42,250 --> 00:31:45,570 examines traditional rural life with curiosity, 543 00:31:45,570 --> 00:31:47,243 two different worlds meet. 544 00:31:48,454 --> 00:31:52,930 (speaking in foreign language) 545 00:31:52,930 --> 00:31:55,300 Whether for tourist groups or rice farmers, 546 00:31:55,300 --> 00:31:58,420 the route is the same only the stops differ. 547 00:31:58,420 --> 00:32:00,970 The farmers don't need to stop for photos. 548 00:32:00,970 --> 00:32:03,160 Train driver Huáng She-Bin knows, 549 00:32:03,160 --> 00:32:06,540 without the revenue from the relatively new tourist trains, 550 00:32:06,540 --> 00:32:08,900 the little train would be bankrupt already. 551 00:32:08,900 --> 00:32:13,023 It was seen as uneconomical and was due to be closed down. 552 00:32:16,356 --> 00:32:17,350 (speaking in foreign language) 553 00:32:17,350 --> 00:32:19,640 The train fare was very low 554 00:32:19,640 --> 00:32:21,690 and in the 90's the company suffered 555 00:32:21,690 --> 00:32:23,557 a multi-million Yuan loss. 556 00:32:26,997 --> 00:32:28,860 Phenergan is the president 557 00:32:28,860 --> 00:32:32,530 of the mining company and hence also of the steam train. 558 00:32:32,530 --> 00:32:34,630 Its end was already decided 559 00:32:34,630 --> 00:32:37,380 but the residents of the Valley fought for their train. 560 00:32:38,499 --> 00:32:40,230 (speaking in foreign language) 561 00:32:40,230 --> 00:32:41,880 The company had already planned 562 00:32:41,880 --> 00:32:44,260 to replace the railway with a road, 563 00:32:44,260 --> 00:32:46,473 so that more public buses could operate. 564 00:32:47,660 --> 00:32:51,220 That would solve the problem of public transportation. 565 00:32:51,220 --> 00:32:56,220 We already had funds for the plan, but it raised conflicts. 566 00:32:58,070 --> 00:33:01,353 Economically, keeping the train running made no sense. 567 00:33:02,840 --> 00:33:04,723 It would make us suffer huge losses. 568 00:33:07,100 --> 00:33:10,250 If a company only performs its social function 569 00:33:10,250 --> 00:33:11,323 it won't survive, 570 00:33:12,200 --> 00:33:14,750 but we found out that we could make a profit, 571 00:33:14,750 --> 00:33:17,420 if we first invest in the train. 572 00:33:17,420 --> 00:33:21,670 (speaking in foreign language) 573 00:33:21,670 --> 00:33:22,700 For the locals, 574 00:33:22,700 --> 00:33:24,560 the train was always more than just 575 00:33:24,560 --> 00:33:28,223 a means of transportation, it is part of their lives. 576 00:33:33,006 --> 00:33:37,489 (speaking in foreign language) 577 00:33:37,489 --> 00:33:39,170 [Female translator] I grew up with the little train 578 00:33:39,170 --> 00:33:43,290 Bajiaogou, when we heard its whistling as children, 579 00:33:43,290 --> 00:33:46,017 we all run to the big square and yelled, 580 00:33:46,017 --> 00:33:49,233 "The train is here." (laughing) And we were happy. 581 00:33:50,670 --> 00:33:52,720 Chung Lee runs a little hotel, 582 00:33:52,720 --> 00:33:54,460 the first one in the Valley, 583 00:33:54,460 --> 00:33:56,560 with a toilet and internet access, 584 00:33:56,560 --> 00:34:00,400 luxuries that didn't exist in this region a few years ago. 585 00:34:00,400 --> 00:34:02,910 Chung Lee hopes to be able to live off the income 586 00:34:02,910 --> 00:34:05,060 from her guests one day. 587 00:34:05,060 --> 00:34:06,640 The residents of Bajiaogou 588 00:34:06,640 --> 00:34:08,910 like to meet at their Mahjong tables. 589 00:34:08,910 --> 00:34:13,245 Mahjong is played constantly and with great enthusiasm. 590 00:34:13,245 --> 00:34:17,750 (speaking in foreign language) 591 00:34:17,750 --> 00:34:20,620 And such a practical tidy mechanism, 592 00:34:20,620 --> 00:34:23,445 perfect order at the push of a button. 593 00:34:23,445 --> 00:34:27,302 (speaking in foreign language) 594 00:34:27,302 --> 00:34:28,820 [Female translator] The little train was always 595 00:34:28,820 --> 00:34:29,963 like a friend to me. 596 00:34:31,120 --> 00:34:33,900 In my mind it was my companion. 597 00:34:36,081 --> 00:34:39,580 My parents could never afford to buy a lot of toys. 598 00:34:39,580 --> 00:34:44,580 We were always very poor, so the little train was my toy. 599 00:34:45,735 --> 00:34:49,652 (speaking in foreign language) 600 00:34:51,845 --> 00:34:53,850 Chung Lee is extraordinarily happy 601 00:34:53,850 --> 00:34:56,850 about the rain today because tomorrow is Qingming, 602 00:34:56,850 --> 00:34:58,423 the festival for the dead. 603 00:34:59,260 --> 00:35:02,050 This is when the people commemorate their ancestors 604 00:35:02,050 --> 00:35:05,743 and it is a good sign when the sky cries before the start. 605 00:35:08,020 --> 00:35:09,790 All the trinkets that the people need 606 00:35:09,790 --> 00:35:13,720 to commemorate their ancestors are sold on every street. 607 00:35:13,720 --> 00:35:16,340 Primarily money for the other world, 608 00:35:16,340 --> 00:35:20,320 laboriously cut out handmade notes from bamboo fibers 609 00:35:20,320 --> 00:35:22,690 or a common currency in the afterworld 610 00:35:22,690 --> 00:35:26,050 and very important, loud fireworks. 611 00:35:26,050 --> 00:35:28,780 The Chinese dead, love noise 612 00:35:28,780 --> 00:35:32,120 on top of that more paper money with fantastical Psalms 613 00:35:32,120 --> 00:35:33,703 and incense sticks. 614 00:35:36,013 --> 00:35:40,450 (speaking in foreign language) 615 00:35:40,450 --> 00:35:42,670 Chung Lee has got everything she needs. 616 00:35:42,670 --> 00:35:45,200 Tomorrow she wants to visit her father's grave 617 00:35:45,200 --> 00:35:47,163 in the mountains above Bajiaogou. 618 00:35:52,890 --> 00:35:56,060 Wong Qishan, the peasant woman is already there 619 00:35:56,060 --> 00:35:58,292 up in the mountains of Bajiaogou. 620 00:35:58,292 --> 00:36:03,292 (soft music) (goat bleating) 621 00:36:09,020 --> 00:36:10,460 She is back from the market 622 00:36:10,460 --> 00:36:13,200 and was able to sell all of her vegetables. 623 00:36:13,200 --> 00:36:15,460 Wong did some shopping herself too. 624 00:36:15,460 --> 00:36:17,090 The most important ingredient 625 00:36:17,090 --> 00:36:21,200 of the notorious Szechwan cuisine, chili seedlings. 626 00:36:21,200 --> 00:36:23,420 Here in Sichuan, hands full of chili 627 00:36:23,420 --> 00:36:24,870 are thrown into the dishes 628 00:36:24,870 --> 00:36:27,718 and they grow very well in Wong's garden. 629 00:36:27,718 --> 00:36:30,135 (soft music) 630 00:36:45,950 --> 00:36:47,007 (speaking in foreign language) 631 00:36:47,007 --> 00:36:51,230 [Female translator] I can harvest them in about two months 632 00:36:51,230 --> 00:36:52,730 and then I'll sell them again. 633 00:36:53,848 --> 00:36:57,765 (speaking in foreign language) 634 00:37:01,973 --> 00:37:04,210 Wong's husband is heating up the oven 635 00:37:04,210 --> 00:37:05,676 with bamboo wood. 636 00:37:05,676 --> 00:37:08,093 (soft music) 637 00:37:10,000 --> 00:37:13,630 A strange thing hangs above the stove with its huge walks. 638 00:37:13,630 --> 00:37:16,062 It looks like a mummified bird. 639 00:37:16,062 --> 00:37:17,486 (speaking in foreign language) 640 00:37:17,486 --> 00:37:18,870 [Female translator] I need such a big walk 641 00:37:18,870 --> 00:37:21,563 because I also cook the food for the pigs in here. 642 00:37:22,770 --> 00:37:27,563 We used to have more than 10 pigs, today there are only two. 643 00:37:30,210 --> 00:37:32,150 So what do you do with a strange bird, 644 00:37:32,150 --> 00:37:34,077 dangling above the stove? 645 00:37:34,077 --> 00:37:37,818 (utensils clattering) 646 00:37:37,818 --> 00:37:38,697 (speaking in foreign language) 647 00:37:38,697 --> 00:37:39,530 [Female translator] When you eat it, 648 00:37:39,530 --> 00:37:41,559 it used to be that big. 649 00:37:41,559 --> 00:37:44,976 (cooking stick stirring) 650 00:37:48,712 --> 00:37:49,630 (speaking in foreign language) 651 00:37:49,630 --> 00:37:53,443 We salted it and smoked it, that way it keeps longer. 652 00:37:55,950 --> 00:38:00,083 You can either cook it with soy sauce or steam it. 653 00:38:01,110 --> 00:38:04,060 I serve it with some great yellow crasp 654 00:38:04,060 --> 00:38:05,623 and asparagus salad. 655 00:38:08,240 --> 00:38:12,300 Not something to ward off evil just dried meat. 656 00:38:12,300 --> 00:38:14,850 Wong and her husband are self-sufficient with their chickens 657 00:38:14,850 --> 00:38:19,295 and two pigs, some geese, goats and their vegetables. 658 00:38:19,295 --> 00:38:21,712 (soft music) 659 00:38:24,760 --> 00:38:27,760 The ravines of Bajiaogou looked like a prehistoric, 660 00:38:27,760 --> 00:38:30,400 primordial landscape with Fern trees 661 00:38:30,400 --> 00:38:33,990 where once dinosaurs may have grazed on their leaves. 662 00:38:33,990 --> 00:38:36,300 For generations, the dead had been buried 663 00:38:36,300 --> 00:38:38,030 in this dramatic landscape 664 00:38:38,030 --> 00:38:40,663 in rock raves carved right into the stone. 665 00:38:43,700 --> 00:38:45,610 Chung Lee, the hotel owner, 666 00:38:45,610 --> 00:38:47,600 wants to visit her father's grave. 667 00:38:47,600 --> 00:38:50,730 He died young when she was only a child. 668 00:38:50,730 --> 00:38:54,220 His earn is carved into the rocks high above Bajiaogou. 669 00:38:54,220 --> 00:38:57,563 The ascent takes almost an hour. There are no paths. 670 00:39:07,220 --> 00:39:08,693 (speaking in foreign language) 671 00:39:08,693 --> 00:39:10,050 [Female translator] We all use the paper money 672 00:39:10,050 --> 00:39:13,020 around here. (speaking in foreign language) 673 00:39:13,020 --> 00:39:15,900 I will hang up these paper flags first though, 674 00:39:15,900 --> 00:39:18,666 as a sign that I visited my ancestors. 675 00:39:18,666 --> 00:39:22,583 (speaking in foreign language) 676 00:39:24,360 --> 00:39:25,730 Sweeping the grave, 677 00:39:25,730 --> 00:39:28,980 is how the Chinese also call this annual ritual. 678 00:39:28,980 --> 00:39:31,030 More important than the cleaning however, 679 00:39:31,030 --> 00:39:34,410 is pleasing the dead with paper money, incense, 680 00:39:34,410 --> 00:39:36,303 noises and prayers. 681 00:39:38,915 --> 00:39:43,477 (speaking in foreign language) 682 00:39:43,477 --> 00:39:45,440 [Female translator] This is how we show our respect 683 00:39:45,440 --> 00:39:49,253 and gratitude to our parents, they raised us after all. 684 00:39:50,377 --> 00:39:52,750 In the past, my brother and sister-in-law 685 00:39:52,750 --> 00:39:54,403 used to take me here every year. 686 00:39:55,250 --> 00:39:57,843 Now I'm grown up and come here on my own. 687 00:40:01,511 --> 00:40:04,473 Well, now I'll send up some money to my father. 688 00:40:07,490 --> 00:40:10,270 The afterworld money made from bamboo fibers 689 00:40:10,270 --> 00:40:13,213 passes into the other world in the form of smoke. 690 00:40:29,780 --> 00:40:32,790 At the end of the ritual, the fireworks. 691 00:40:32,790 --> 00:40:34,610 The special salutes echo through 692 00:40:34,610 --> 00:40:36,973 the Valley often these days. 693 00:40:36,973 --> 00:40:40,140 (fireworks crackling) 694 00:40:49,290 --> 00:40:51,720 The market of Shaxi is closing now 695 00:40:51,720 --> 00:40:54,363 and a certain calm is restored in the little town. 696 00:40:54,363 --> 00:40:58,890 (soft music) (people chanting) 697 00:40:58,890 --> 00:41:02,370 On every corner, in every teahouse people play Mahjong 698 00:41:02,370 --> 00:41:04,133 or Sichuan poker. 699 00:41:04,133 --> 00:41:09,133 (soft music) (people chanting) 700 00:41:09,800 --> 00:41:13,510 The card game is supposed to be more than 2000 years old, 701 00:41:13,510 --> 00:41:15,690 and the people of Sichuan proudly claim 702 00:41:15,690 --> 00:41:18,790 to be the most enthusiastic Mahjong and card players 703 00:41:18,790 --> 00:41:21,000 in the whole of China. 704 00:41:21,000 --> 00:41:23,417 (soft music) 705 00:41:27,350 --> 00:41:30,460 Also in the healing center at the outskirts of the market, 706 00:41:30,460 --> 00:41:32,740 the people play Sichuan poker. 707 00:41:32,740 --> 00:41:35,510 In the back room, all kinds of pains are healed 708 00:41:35,510 --> 00:41:38,960 according to the principles of traditional Chinese medicine 709 00:41:38,960 --> 00:41:41,443 with acupuncture and fire cupping. 710 00:41:43,301 --> 00:41:47,218 (speaking in foreign language) 711 00:41:57,018 --> 00:41:59,990 If you don't feel well this will help, 712 00:41:59,990 --> 00:42:02,521 with anything also against the cold. 713 00:42:02,521 --> 00:42:06,438 (speaking in foreign language) 714 00:42:07,810 --> 00:42:09,990 Those who work hard for years 715 00:42:09,990 --> 00:42:11,980 feel especially worn out. 716 00:42:11,980 --> 00:42:15,000 No wonder that the locomotive drivers of the little train 717 00:42:15,000 --> 00:42:17,693 trust in the traditional Chinese art of healing. 718 00:42:20,950 --> 00:42:24,110 The train drivers come to me very often. 719 00:42:24,110 --> 00:42:26,733 They come two or three times a month for treatment. 720 00:42:30,430 --> 00:42:31,540 Chen Cheng Lee, 721 00:42:31,540 --> 00:42:33,440 the very first locomotive driver, 722 00:42:33,440 --> 00:42:36,030 very rarely comes into town. 723 00:42:36,030 --> 00:42:39,090 Together with Li Sha Chung, the track worker, 724 00:42:39,090 --> 00:42:42,160 he pays the new tourist train station a visit. 725 00:42:42,160 --> 00:42:44,820 It is amazing for the elderly man to see what has been made 726 00:42:44,820 --> 00:42:46,270 of the little coal train, 727 00:42:46,270 --> 00:42:48,443 that influenced their lives so immensely. 728 00:42:58,780 --> 00:43:01,520 Li Sha Chung is curious to know what the tourists pay 729 00:43:01,520 --> 00:43:03,370 for a trip on this railway tracks, 730 00:43:03,370 --> 00:43:05,800 which he built with his bare hands. 731 00:43:05,800 --> 00:43:08,120 There are combined tickets for a train ride 732 00:43:08,120 --> 00:43:11,195 and an underground mining experience. 733 00:43:11,195 --> 00:43:12,342 [Female translator] These are the tickets we have. 734 00:43:12,342 --> 00:43:13,175 (speaking in foreign language) 735 00:43:13,175 --> 00:43:14,907 How much is a return ticket? 736 00:43:14,907 --> 00:43:17,630 (speaking in foreign language) 737 00:43:17,630 --> 00:43:21,550 150 Yuan, which is about $25. 738 00:43:21,550 --> 00:43:23,480 Lee wouldn't be able to afford that, 739 00:43:23,480 --> 00:43:26,100 but he doesn't wanna go back underground to the mine 740 00:43:26,100 --> 00:43:27,823 where he had to work so hard. 741 00:43:31,330 --> 00:43:34,563 He would much rather have Chun show him a locomotive. 742 00:43:37,846 --> 00:43:39,740 (speaking in foreign language) 743 00:43:39,740 --> 00:43:41,780 I heard his name Master San 744 00:43:41,780 --> 00:43:45,293 all the time, but I never met him until now. 745 00:43:46,800 --> 00:43:49,350 He drove the train over ground. 746 00:43:49,350 --> 00:43:53,793 I mined coal underground. So, how could we have met? 747 00:43:54,790 --> 00:43:58,150 Today, with all his passion and enthusiasm 748 00:43:58,150 --> 00:44:00,580 he showed me how to drive the train, 749 00:44:00,580 --> 00:44:04,080 where to put the water and told me about accidents 750 00:44:04,080 --> 00:44:07,410 that occurred, how to operate the train. 751 00:44:07,410 --> 00:44:10,800 I never experienced anything like today. 752 00:44:10,800 --> 00:44:13,700 I had never been inside the cab before. 753 00:44:13,700 --> 00:44:16,810 I had only been on the carriages. 754 00:44:16,810 --> 00:44:18,680 I want to have you as my master, 755 00:44:18,680 --> 00:44:22,360 will you teach me as your train driving student? 756 00:44:22,360 --> 00:44:24,922 I promise to be a diligent pupil. 757 00:44:24,922 --> 00:44:29,922 (both laughing) (upbeat music) 758 00:44:30,343 --> 00:44:33,130 The last train for today makes its way, 759 00:44:33,130 --> 00:44:37,380 at the depot of Shaxi repairs continue as always. 760 00:44:37,380 --> 00:44:40,690 They are working nonstop on the ramshackle locomotives 761 00:44:40,690 --> 00:44:43,360 which need maintenance after almost every trip, 762 00:44:43,360 --> 00:44:46,461 whether it is bolting, welding, or hammering. 763 00:44:46,461 --> 00:44:48,878 (soft music) 764 00:44:59,506 --> 00:45:02,710 Huáng She-Bin has finished two trips with the little train 765 00:45:02,710 --> 00:45:04,940 and needs to do some switching still. 766 00:45:04,940 --> 00:45:07,857 (tools clattering) 767 00:45:11,500 --> 00:45:13,010 If he throws out ashes, 768 00:45:13,010 --> 00:45:15,460 the cool collectors are right at hand 769 00:45:15,460 --> 00:45:16,970 and won't let a single little piece 770 00:45:16,970 --> 00:45:19,253 of usable heating material get lost. 771 00:45:20,560 --> 00:45:22,100 End of shift. 772 00:45:22,100 --> 00:45:25,193 I'm always happy when I'm back safely nothing has happened. 773 00:45:26,760 --> 00:45:28,900 Depending on the shift, I then either drive home 774 00:45:28,900 --> 00:45:30,933 to my family or I sleep here. 775 00:45:32,650 --> 00:45:35,340 Over there is a residential home for the drivers 776 00:45:35,340 --> 00:45:36,340 where I have a room. 777 00:45:41,260 --> 00:45:43,110 The residential home, 778 00:45:43,110 --> 00:45:45,570 simple sleeping accommodation for the train drivers 779 00:45:45,570 --> 00:45:47,640 on three floors. 780 00:45:47,640 --> 00:45:50,760 This dates back to the coal rush period of the little train, 781 00:45:50,760 --> 00:45:53,010 when it was used to transport the coal nuggets here 782 00:45:53,010 --> 00:45:54,730 from Bajiaogou. 783 00:45:54,730 --> 00:45:58,203 Today, the tourist train is supposed to earn the nuggets. 784 00:46:00,510 --> 00:46:02,970 Huáng doesn't have to worry about his workplace, 785 00:46:02,970 --> 00:46:07,000 plans to bring the little train to an end, no longer exist. 786 00:46:07,000 --> 00:46:11,540 In 2008, it was even declared an industrial monument. 787 00:46:11,540 --> 00:46:13,850 Huáng will carry on driving the peasants and butchers 788 00:46:13,850 --> 00:46:16,860 with their pigs through the valleys of Sichuan, 789 00:46:16,860 --> 00:46:19,780 then, he will return exhausted to his little room 790 00:46:19,780 --> 00:46:21,340 at the residential home, 791 00:46:21,340 --> 00:46:24,361 which itself looks like an industrial monument. 792 00:46:24,361 --> 00:46:26,778 (soft music) 793 00:46:31,490 --> 00:46:34,300 There is no comfort after the drudgery and the heat, 794 00:46:34,300 --> 00:46:38,920 not even a shower. Nonetheless, Huáng doesn't complain. 795 00:46:38,920 --> 00:46:41,360 He is happy in the knowledge that he will soon drive home 796 00:46:41,360 --> 00:46:44,034 to his wife and son by motorbike. 797 00:46:44,034 --> 00:46:46,451 (soft music) 798 00:46:53,710 --> 00:46:55,330 While Huáng is freshening up, 799 00:46:55,330 --> 00:46:58,420 loud speakers are hung up on the squares of the town. 800 00:46:58,420 --> 00:47:01,460 This happens every night, not only around here, 801 00:47:01,460 --> 00:47:03,113 it is a national hobby. 802 00:47:07,730 --> 00:47:09,170 Collective dancing, 803 00:47:09,170 --> 00:47:11,440 something Huáng probably doesn't consider doing 804 00:47:11,440 --> 00:47:13,500 after his long day of hard work. 805 00:47:13,500 --> 00:47:15,260 It is mostly women anyway, 806 00:47:15,260 --> 00:47:19,410 who meet every night around sundown for the open air ballet. 807 00:47:19,410 --> 00:47:21,410 Depending on the preference of the group, 808 00:47:21,410 --> 00:47:25,210 the focus can be either on keep fit or on dancing. 809 00:47:25,210 --> 00:47:28,352 The main thing is that everyone is in motion. 810 00:47:28,352 --> 00:47:32,435 (upbeat foreign music continues) 811 00:47:35,150 --> 00:47:37,600 And the little train will continue to provide 812 00:47:37,600 --> 00:47:41,290 the locomotion here in the valleys, in the heart of China. 813 00:47:41,290 --> 00:47:45,380 In the land of the mega cities where growth knows no limits, 814 00:47:45,380 --> 00:47:48,050 a dinosaur of the industrial age 815 00:47:48,050 --> 00:47:51,030 drives over the narrow gauge railway tracks, 816 00:47:51,030 --> 00:47:54,227 powered by steam and ardently loved. 817 00:47:54,227 --> 00:47:59,227 (soft music) (train engine revving) 64163

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