Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:00,375 --> 00:00:03,417
{\an4}Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back
with more of the best of Europe.
2
00:00:03,417 --> 00:00:06,250
{\an4}This time I'm surrounded
by Slavic culture...
3
00:00:06,250 --> 00:00:09,375
{\an4}it's Bulgaria!
Thanks for joining us.
4
00:00:09,375 --> 00:00:12,834
{\an4}♪♪
5
00:00:40,999 --> 00:00:43,999
{\an4}Relatively
unknown and underappreciated,
6
00:00:43,999 --> 00:00:46,042
{\an4}Bulgaria is a country
I've long enjoyed
7
00:00:46,042 --> 00:00:48,999
{\an4}for the surprises it offers
the curious traveler.
8
00:00:48,999 --> 00:00:53,626
{\an4}A crossroads of civilizations,
it offers a fascinating story.
9
00:00:53,626 --> 00:00:56,834
{\an4}Bulgaria is a land
of rich culture,
10
00:00:56,834 --> 00:00:58,417
{\an4}with a modern vitality.
11
00:00:58,417 --> 00:01:01,167
{\an4}Its capital has
a stunning cathedral.
12
00:01:01,167 --> 00:01:04,417
{\an4}Folk traditions
are alive and well.
13
00:01:04,417 --> 00:01:08,999
{\an4}A mountain monastery cradles
Bulgaria's spiritual soul.
14
00:01:08,999 --> 00:01:11,125
{\an4}Craftspeople
keep traditions alive,
15
00:01:11,125 --> 00:01:14,042
{\an4}and roses offer
a fragrant harvest.
16
00:01:14,042 --> 00:01:16,584
{\an4}With glittering treasures
from ancient tombs
17
00:01:16,584 --> 00:01:19,999
{\an4}and decrepit monuments
to a difficult 20th century,
18
00:01:19,999 --> 00:01:22,417
{\an4}it's a surprising land
where this means yes:
19
00:01:22,417 --> 00:01:23,584
{\an4}Da.
20
00:01:23,584 --> 00:01:24,999
{\an4}and this means no:
21
00:01:24,999 --> 00:01:27,959
{\an4}Ne.
22
00:01:27,959 --> 00:01:28,834
{\an4}In the southeast
of Europe,
23
00:01:28,834 --> 00:01:32,459
{\an4}Bulgaria sits at the east
end of the Balkan Peninsula.
24
00:01:32,459 --> 00:01:35,999
{\an4}From Sofia, we visit
Rila Monastery,
25
00:01:35,999 --> 00:01:37,459
{\an4}head north to Veliko Tarnovo,
26
00:01:37,459 --> 00:01:42,417
{\an4}explore the Thracian Plain,
and finish in Plovdiv.
27
00:01:43,959 --> 00:01:44,542
{\an4}Sofia may be the capital
28
00:01:44,542 --> 00:01:47,209
{\an4}of one of the poorest countries
in the European Union,
29
00:01:47,209 --> 00:01:48,999
{\an4}but you wouldn't know
it strolling
30
00:01:48,999 --> 00:01:50,584
{\an4}its vibrant boulevards.
31
00:01:50,584 --> 00:01:54,626
{\an4}With a million people,
Sofia is delightfully livable.
32
00:01:54,626 --> 00:01:57,792
{\an4}It has an airy,
open street plan...
33
00:01:57,792 --> 00:01:59,584
{\an4}fine old architecture...
34
00:01:59,584 --> 00:02:01,125
{\an4}lush parks...
35
00:02:01,125 --> 00:02:04,626
{\an4}and a relaxed pace of life.
36
00:02:04,626 --> 00:02:06,083
{\an4}The city is named
for "Holy Wisdom,"
37
00:02:06,083 --> 00:02:09,667
{\an4}represented by this statue
of Sveta Sofia.
38
00:02:09,667 --> 00:02:14,167
{\an4}She proudly tops a column
marking the center of town.
39
00:02:16,999 --> 00:02:18,876
{\an4}Because of its
strategic position,
40
00:02:18,876 --> 00:02:20,709
{\an4}Bulgaria sits
on layers of history.
41
00:02:20,709 --> 00:02:23,999
{\an4}From ancient Greeks and Romans
to fearsome Slavic warriors,
42
00:02:23,999 --> 00:02:28,083
{\an4}from Ottoman pashas
to Cold War communists,
43
00:02:28,083 --> 00:02:30,167
{\an4}each left its mark.
44
00:02:30,167 --> 00:02:31,999
{\an4}In this town, any where you dig,
45
00:02:31,999 --> 00:02:35,792
{\an4}you find ancient ruins --
bits of Roman Sofia.
46
00:02:35,792 --> 00:02:39,751
{\an4}Preserving its rich heritage
is a priority,
47
00:02:39,751 --> 00:02:40,792
{\an4}and the city's infrastructure
48
00:02:40,792 --> 00:02:44,042
{\an4}is built around
its archeological treasures.
49
00:02:44,042 --> 00:02:46,876
{\an4}Every day commuters
walk by reminders
50
00:02:46,876 --> 00:02:49,709
{\an4}of Sofia's distant past.
51
00:02:53,417 --> 00:02:56,876
{\an4}Bulgaria's complicated history
has made it a melting pot.
52
00:02:56,876 --> 00:02:59,999
{\an4}And with its ethnic diversity
came different religions.
53
00:02:59,999 --> 00:03:01,542
{\an4}Here in Sofia,
within a few steps,
54
00:03:01,542 --> 00:03:04,167
{\an4}you've got mosques, churches,
and a synagogue.
55
00:03:05,542 --> 00:03:08,375
{\an4}Most Bulgarians --
like Russians and Greeks --
56
00:03:08,375 --> 00:03:10,125
{\an4}are Orthodox Christians,
57
00:03:10,125 --> 00:03:12,209
{\an4}and the Orthodox
tradition stretches
58
00:03:12,209 --> 00:03:15,292
{\an4}from here far to the East.
59
00:03:15,292 --> 00:03:16,250
{\an4}And this mosque survives
60
00:03:16,250 --> 00:03:18,999
{\an4}from five centuries
of Ottoman rule.
61
00:03:18,999 --> 00:03:22,751
{\an4}Today, one in every ten
Bulgarian citizens is Muslim,
62
00:03:22,751 --> 00:03:25,584
{\an4}whose ancestors
came from Turkey.
63
00:03:25,584 --> 00:03:29,751
{\an4}A block away is one
of Europe's largest synagogues.
64
00:03:29,751 --> 00:03:32,501
{\an4}Bulgaria was one of the
only countries in Nazi territory
65
00:03:32,501 --> 00:03:36,999
{\an4}that refused to turn its Jewish
population over to Hitler.
66
00:03:36,999 --> 00:03:39,167
{\an4}None of Bulgaria's
49,000 Jews
67
00:03:39,167 --> 00:03:42,999
{\an4}were deported to
concentration camps.
68
00:03:42,999 --> 00:03:44,876
{\an4}I'm joined by
my Bulgarian friend
69
00:03:44,876 --> 00:03:47,375
{\an4}and fellow tour guide,
Stefan Bozadzhiev,
70
00:03:47,375 --> 00:03:48,542
{\an4}who's my teacher
71
00:03:48,542 --> 00:03:50,999
{\an4}for all things
Bulgarian -- including
72
00:03:50,999 --> 00:03:52,584
{\an4}some fun little insights.
73
00:03:52,584 --> 00:03:54,542
{\an4}How many springs
in Sofia like this?
74
00:03:54,542 --> 00:03:57,709
{\an4}-We have more than 40.
And this is just one of them.
75
00:03:57,709 --> 00:03:59,999
{\an4}-And the people, why do they
like this so much?
76
00:03:59,999 --> 00:04:03,459
{\an4}-Because they'll have eternal
life if they drink it.
77
00:04:03,459 --> 00:04:05,999
{\an4}-So, this is healthy water,
then?
78
00:04:05,999 --> 00:04:08,999
{\an4}-Very healthy. Try!
79
00:04:08,999 --> 00:04:10,375
{\an4}-It's warm...
80
00:04:10,375 --> 00:04:11,918
{\an4}-Yeah...
-It's mineral-y...
81
00:04:11,918 --> 00:04:13,709
{\an4}-Yes, a little bit sulfur,
probably?
82
00:04:13,709 --> 00:04:15,999
{\an4}-I'm feeling better already.
It's nice.
83
00:04:15,999 --> 00:04:16,876
{\an4}-I see it in your eyes!
84
00:04:16,876 --> 00:04:19,751
{\an4}-Sofia prides itself
on its mineral springs,
85
00:04:19,751 --> 00:04:21,459
{\an4}which attracted
the first settlers
86
00:04:21,459 --> 00:04:22,459
{\an4}here in ancient times.
87
00:04:22,459 --> 00:04:25,834
{\an4}And to this day, these
perpetually flowing water taps
88
00:04:25,834 --> 00:04:27,999
{\an4}are appreciated
by the locals.
89
00:04:27,999 --> 00:04:33,167
{\an4}And the city even has
an actual yellow brick road.
90
00:04:33,167 --> 00:04:34,417
{\an4}These bricks were a gift
91
00:04:34,417 --> 00:04:36,667
{\an4}from Austria's Emperor
Franz Josef,
92
00:04:36,667 --> 00:04:40,292
{\an4}who, after what must have been
a muddy visit in 1907,
93
00:04:40,292 --> 00:04:44,417
{\an4}wanted to encourage Sofia
to pave its streets.
94
00:04:44,417 --> 00:04:46,999
{\an4}The bricks lead
to Sofia's cathedral,
95
00:04:46,999 --> 00:04:50,876
{\an4}one of the largest Orthodox
churches in Christendom.
96
00:04:50,876 --> 00:04:52,626
{\an4}It's the only national church
97
00:04:52,626 --> 00:04:53,542
{\an4}I can think of that's named
98
00:04:53,542 --> 00:04:57,792
{\an4}for a sainted military hero
of a different country:
99
00:04:57,792 --> 00:05:00,999
{\an4}Alexander Nevsky of Russia.
100
00:05:00,999 --> 00:05:03,709
{\an4}The Bulgarians feel
a Slavic kinship
101
00:05:03,709 --> 00:05:05,667
{\an4}with Russia -- which, in 1878,
102
00:05:05,667 --> 00:05:08,834
{\an4}helped liberate them
from centuries of Ottoman rule.
103
00:05:08,834 --> 00:05:12,083
{\an4}This church was built to honor
the Russian soldiers
104
00:05:12,083 --> 00:05:13,999
{\an4}who died to free Bulgaria
105
00:05:13,999 --> 00:05:16,250
{\an4}from the so-called
"Turkish yoke."
106
00:05:16,250 --> 00:05:18,042
{\an4}Russian architects
designed the church
107
00:05:18,042 --> 00:05:21,959
{\an4}with a mix of Russian
and Neo-Byzantine styles.
108
00:05:21,959 --> 00:05:23,999
{\an4}Its cascading gold
and copper domes
109
00:05:23,999 --> 00:05:28,042
{\an4}are striking from every angle.
110
00:05:28,042 --> 00:05:29,459
{\an4}Inside, you're immersed
111
00:05:29,459 --> 00:05:32,999
{\an4}in the glow
of Orthodox tradition.
112
00:05:34,042 --> 00:05:36,999
{\an4}Walls glitter with gold
and silver icons,
113
00:05:36,999 --> 00:05:40,250
{\an4}all from the early 20th century.
114
00:05:40,250 --> 00:05:41,876
{\an4}Worshippers show their devotion
115
00:05:41,876 --> 00:05:45,125
{\an4}with the help of sacred images.
116
00:05:45,125 --> 00:05:46,999
{\an4}The elaborate marble iconostasis
117
00:05:46,999 --> 00:05:50,083
{\an4}separates parishioners
from the main altar.
118
00:05:50,083 --> 00:05:50,999
{\an4}It's lined with saints,
119
00:05:50,999 --> 00:05:55,042
{\an4}including the church's
namesake, Alexander Nevsky.
120
00:05:55,042 --> 00:05:58,959
{\an4}The faithful light candles
to help power their prayers:
121
00:05:58,959 --> 00:06:03,709
{\an4}lower-level candelabras
are for the deceased;
122
00:06:03,709 --> 00:06:08,083
{\an4}higher-level ones represent
prayers for the living.
123
00:06:11,417 --> 00:06:14,292
{\an4}Sofia has lots
of sprawling parks,
124
00:06:14,292 --> 00:06:15,292
{\an4}offering apartment dwellers
125
00:06:15,292 --> 00:06:18,250
{\an4}a green and inviting
space to hang out.
126
00:06:18,250 --> 00:06:21,626
{\an4}And many of the parks
come with heavy reminders
127
00:06:21,626 --> 00:06:23,792
{\an4}of a tough 20th century.
128
00:06:23,792 --> 00:06:27,959
{\an4}After World War II, Bulgaria
ended up in the Soviet Bloc.
129
00:06:27,959 --> 00:06:30,459
{\an4}Even though Bulgaria
was famously docile
130
00:06:30,459 --> 00:06:31,209
{\an4}under Russian rule,
131
00:06:31,209 --> 00:06:33,834
{\an4}life under communism
wasn't easy here.
132
00:06:33,834 --> 00:06:36,751
{\an4}And today, while
enthusiastically part of the EU,
133
00:06:36,751 --> 00:06:40,999
{\an4}Bulgaria still wrestles
with its communist legacy.
134
00:06:40,999 --> 00:06:42,209
{\an4}Although
the communists are gone,
135
00:06:42,209 --> 00:06:46,250
{\an4}their architectural heritage
still looms large.
136
00:06:46,250 --> 00:06:47,999
{\an4}At Sofia's main intersection,
137
00:06:47,999 --> 00:06:49,751
{\an4}today's parliament offices
138
00:06:49,751 --> 00:06:50,999
{\an4}fill the Stalinist-style
139
00:06:50,999 --> 00:06:53,999
{\an4}former Communist Party
Headquarters.
140
00:06:53,999 --> 00:06:56,292
{\an4}All over Bulgaria,
controversy swirls around
141
00:06:56,292 --> 00:07:00,083
{\an4}crumbling communist-era
monuments -- like this one.
142
00:07:00,083 --> 00:07:01,999
{\an4}Should they be
allowed to stand,
143
00:07:01,999 --> 00:07:03,626
{\an4}or should they be torn down?
144
00:07:03,626 --> 00:07:06,834
{\an4}Many have already been removed
and are displayed here
145
00:07:06,834 --> 00:07:09,667
{\an4}at Sofia's Museum
of Socialist Art.
146
00:07:09,667 --> 00:07:12,375
{\an4}In this garden
of communist propaganda, Lenin,
147
00:07:12,375 --> 00:07:13,918
{\an4}who once topped
the main pillar
148
00:07:13,918 --> 00:07:17,125
{\an4}in the center of town,
still faces the storm.
149
00:07:17,125 --> 00:07:19,250
{\an4}The red star,
which for 50 years
150
00:07:19,250 --> 00:07:21,834
{\an4}capped the city's
grandest edifice,
151
00:07:21,834 --> 00:07:23,042
{\an4}no longer inspires.
152
00:07:23,042 --> 00:07:26,667
{\an4}And Georgi Dimitrov,
the "Bulgarian Lenin,"
153
00:07:26,667 --> 00:07:28,417
{\an4}is simply ignored.
154
00:07:28,417 --> 00:07:32,999
{\an4}Today, these statues seem to
preach their outdated ideology
155
00:07:32,999 --> 00:07:35,292
{\an4}only to each other.
156
00:07:39,999 --> 00:07:44,125
{\an4}We're driving deep into
the mountains south of Sofia.
157
00:07:44,125 --> 00:07:47,209
{\an4}The peaceful beech forests
seem a world away
158
00:07:47,209 --> 00:07:49,751
{\an4}from the big city.
159
00:07:49,751 --> 00:07:52,626
{\an4}Finally, we reach
Rila Monastery --
160
00:07:52,626 --> 00:07:54,334
{\an4}fortress
on the outside...
161
00:07:54,334 --> 00:07:57,125
{\an4}spiritual sanctuary inside.
162
00:07:57,125 --> 00:07:57,999
{\an4}Within its walls,
you feel
163
00:07:57,999 --> 00:08:03,709
{\an4}something special-both
sacred and timeless.
164
00:08:07,834 --> 00:08:09,459
{\an4}Founded in the 10th century,
165
00:08:09,459 --> 00:08:11,501
{\an4}Rila Monastery was a stronghold
166
00:08:11,501 --> 00:08:12,918
{\an4}for Bulgarian faith,
language,
167
00:08:12,918 --> 00:08:16,501
{\an4}and culture during nearly
500 years of Ottoman rule.
168
00:08:16,501 --> 00:08:18,999
{\an4}And today, it remains
the country's
169
00:08:18,999 --> 00:08:21,999
{\an4}revered national treasure.
170
00:08:25,999 --> 00:08:29,834
{\an4}This beautiful place has been
a holy site and refuge
171
00:08:29,834 --> 00:08:31,501
{\an4}for over a thousand years.
172
00:08:31,501 --> 00:08:34,501
{\an4}The monastery is still home
to a handful of monks
173
00:08:34,501 --> 00:08:37,999
{\an4}who host both tourists
and pilgrims.
174
00:08:37,999 --> 00:08:41,667
{\an4}This bell tower, the oldest
surviving part of the monastery,
175
00:08:41,667 --> 00:08:44,999
{\an4}served as a final refuge
in case of attack.
176
00:08:44,999 --> 00:08:46,999
{\an4}The iconic church
is surrounded
177
00:08:46,999 --> 00:08:49,292
{\an4}by a graceful arcade.
178
00:08:49,292 --> 00:08:51,876
{\an4}Under the arcade
vivid 19th-century
179
00:08:51,876 --> 00:08:53,709
{\an4}frescoes depict Bible stories,
180
00:08:53,709 --> 00:08:55,999
{\an4}peopled by angels and devils,
181
00:08:55,999 --> 00:08:59,375
{\an4}saints, and sinners.
182
00:08:59,375 --> 00:09:01,167
{\an4}Here's St. John of
Rila,
183
00:09:01,167 --> 00:09:03,083
{\an4}who, seeking
a hermetic way of life,
184
00:09:03,083 --> 00:09:07,876
{\an4}founded this remote monastery
in the year 927.
185
00:09:07,876 --> 00:09:10,375
{\an4}These scenes shows
the 40 days of trials
186
00:09:10,375 --> 00:09:13,292
{\an4}your soul goes through
after death.
187
00:09:13,292 --> 00:09:15,999
{\an4}A guardian angel accompanies
the soul --
188
00:09:15,999 --> 00:09:17,501
{\an4}represented by a small child --
189
00:09:17,501 --> 00:09:20,959
{\an4}through
a gauntlet of temptations.
190
00:09:22,542 --> 00:09:26,250
{\an4}This place feels so venerable.
Did you come here as a child?
191
00:09:26,250 --> 00:09:29,584
{\an4}-Yes -- actually, many times
with my family.
192
00:09:29,584 --> 00:09:31,334
{\an4}It was a favorite
destination.
193
00:09:31,334 --> 00:09:34,250
{\an4}-So, why is Rila so important to
the Bulgarian people?
194
00:09:34,250 --> 00:09:38,459
{\an4}-Because actually our most
favorite, most beloved saint,
195
00:09:38,459 --> 00:09:41,250
{\an4}St. Ivan Rilski,
was buried nearby.
196
00:09:41,250 --> 00:09:43,083
{\an4}-Okay, so, this is, like,
you could say,
197
00:09:43,083 --> 00:09:44,918
{\an4}the Jerusalem for
the Bulgarian people.
198
00:09:44,918 --> 00:09:47,584
{\an4}-Absolutely. The heart of every
single Bulgarian
199
00:09:47,584 --> 00:09:51,042
{\an4}belongs to this place, belongs
to this monastery here.
200
00:09:51,042 --> 00:09:53,167
{\an4}-You come here and celebrate
Bulgaria.
201
00:09:53,167 --> 00:09:57,459
{\an4}-We celebrate Bulgaria
and the Bulgarian spirit.
202
00:10:01,459 --> 00:10:02,751
{\an4}-Driving across Bulgaria,
203
00:10:02,751 --> 00:10:04,999
{\an4}traffic is sparse,
roads are good,
204
00:10:04,999 --> 00:10:07,167
{\an4}and -- since we're here
in the spring --
205
00:10:07,167 --> 00:10:10,542
{\an4}everything is green and fertile.
206
00:10:10,542 --> 00:10:13,876
{\an4}Our next stop is Bulgaria's
medieval capital,
207
00:10:13,876 --> 00:10:14,999
{\an4}Veliko Tarnovo.
208
00:10:14,999 --> 00:10:17,959
{\an4}One of Europe's most
dramatically set cities,
209
00:10:17,959 --> 00:10:19,501
{\an4}it winds through a misty gorge
210
00:10:19,501 --> 00:10:22,999
{\an4}at a sharp bend
of the Yantra River.
211
00:10:22,999 --> 00:10:25,999
{\an4}The town is shaped like
a natural amphitheater.
212
00:10:25,999 --> 00:10:27,709
{\an4}It's more vertical
than horizontal,
213
00:10:27,709 --> 00:10:30,042
{\an4}with a mix of blocky
modern construction
214
00:10:30,042 --> 00:10:33,584
{\an4}and traditional
Bulgarian homes.
215
00:10:33,584 --> 00:10:35,792
{\an4}The ruins of its fortress
are a reminder
216
00:10:35,792 --> 00:10:38,250
{\an4}of the city's importance
800 years ago.
217
00:10:38,250 --> 00:10:39,417
{\an4}They mark the site
of the heavily
218
00:10:39,417 --> 00:10:44,792
{\an4}fortified headquarters of
a long-gone Bulgarian kingdom.
219
00:10:44,792 --> 00:10:46,751
{\an4}This towering monument
commemorates
220
00:10:46,751 --> 00:10:48,876
{\an4}that vast and mighty realm.
221
00:10:48,876 --> 00:10:51,209
{\an4}It was ruled by
the Asen dynasty.
222
00:10:51,209 --> 00:10:53,999
{\an4}According to legend,
the Asen brothers planted
223
00:10:53,999 --> 00:10:54,999
{\an4}a sword on this spot
224
00:10:54,999 --> 00:10:58,125
{\an4}and said, "Here shall
be Bulgaria."
225
00:10:58,125 --> 00:11:00,959
{\an4}This was a golden age
for Bulgaria --
226
00:11:00,959 --> 00:11:02,042
{\an4}the 13th and 14th centuries,
227
00:11:02,042 --> 00:11:05,083
{\an4}when its empire dominated
the Balkan Peninsula,
228
00:11:05,083 --> 00:11:08,751
{\an4}and stretched all
the way to Ukraine.
229
00:11:08,751 --> 00:11:11,083
{\an4}Today's locals have
different aspirations.
230
00:11:11,083 --> 00:11:13,959
{\an4}And a walk along
Veliko Tarnovo's crafts street
231
00:11:13,959 --> 00:11:17,375
{\an4}reveals a thriving folk culture
with opportunities
232
00:11:17,375 --> 00:11:20,918
{\an4}to watch artisans at work.
233
00:11:20,918 --> 00:11:23,999
{\an4}Rumi carves
with a keen eye.
234
00:11:29,626 --> 00:11:33,999
{\an4}Rashko paints icons
with a delicate touch.
235
00:11:37,709 --> 00:11:40,999
{\an4}Nina skillfully
turns clay into art.
236
00:11:40,999 --> 00:11:44,918
{\an4}Meanwhile, her son finishes
each piece with patterns
237
00:11:44,918 --> 00:11:47,459
{\an4}that go back centuries.
238
00:11:51,334 --> 00:11:54,918
{\an4}[ Hammering ]
239
00:11:55,999 --> 00:11:56,959
{\an4}Todor the silversmith --
240
00:11:56,959 --> 00:12:00,083
{\an4}with his strong hands
and distinctive technique --
241
00:12:00,083 --> 00:12:02,959
{\an4}transforms strips
and strands of metal
242
00:12:02,959 --> 00:12:04,999
{\an4}into exquisite jewelry.
243
00:12:12,918 --> 00:12:16,083
{\an4}And, nearby, a folkloric dance
troupe shares
244
00:12:16,083 --> 00:12:18,626
{\an4}their traditional music.
245
00:12:22,999 --> 00:12:26,834
{\an4}[ Singing in native language ]
246
00:13:22,667 --> 00:13:23,999
{\an4}Leaving Veliko Tarnovo,
247
00:13:23,999 --> 00:13:27,501
{\an4}we cross over
the Balkan Mountains.
248
00:13:27,501 --> 00:13:28,999
{\an4}At the top of Shipka Pass,
249
00:13:28,999 --> 00:13:32,167
{\an4}a memorial marks
the site where, in 1877,
250
00:13:32,167 --> 00:13:34,876
{\an4}a combined Bulgarian
and Russian army
251
00:13:34,876 --> 00:13:35,959
{\an4}finally turned the tide
252
00:13:35,959 --> 00:13:38,626
{\an4}in the battle
against the Ottomans.
253
00:13:38,626 --> 00:13:41,375
{\an4}This pivotal battle led
to the eventual demise
254
00:13:41,375 --> 00:13:42,209
{\an4}of the Ottoman Empire
255
00:13:42,209 --> 00:13:44,834
{\an4}and to the creation
of the modern,
256
00:13:44,834 --> 00:13:46,999
{\an4}independent country of Bulgaria.
257
00:13:46,999 --> 00:13:50,667
{\an4}Down in the valley,
golden domes mark Shipka Church,
258
00:13:50,667 --> 00:13:51,999
{\an4}which honors the sacrifice
259
00:13:51,999 --> 00:13:55,209
{\an4}of those Russian
and Bulgarian troops.
260
00:13:55,209 --> 00:13:56,999
{\an4}Built by Russia a century ago,
261
00:13:56,999 --> 00:14:02,042
{\an4}it's a fine example of the
exuberant "Muscovite-style."
262
00:14:02,042 --> 00:14:04,999
{\an4}Capping a nearby ridge,
miles from anything,
263
00:14:04,999 --> 00:14:09,125
{\an4}is one of the most bizarre
sights I've seen anywhere:
264
00:14:09,125 --> 00:14:11,334
{\an4}Buzludzha, an abandoned monument
265
00:14:11,334 --> 00:14:13,792
{\an4}to the Bulgarian
Communist Party.
266
00:14:13,792 --> 00:14:17,999
{\an4}This gigantic conference hall
was built in the 1980s,
267
00:14:17,999 --> 00:14:21,542
{\an4}in the waning days
of communist rule.
268
00:14:21,542 --> 00:14:22,542
{\an4}With the end of the Cold War
269
00:14:22,542 --> 00:14:25,626
{\an4}and the arrival of capitalism,
it was abandoned.
270
00:14:25,626 --> 00:14:29,292
{\an4}Today, the lyrics of the
international communist anthem
271
00:14:29,292 --> 00:14:31,709
{\an4}are literally
falling off the walls.
272
00:14:31,709 --> 00:14:35,792
{\an4}And graffiti makes it clear
who won the Cold War.
273
00:14:35,792 --> 00:14:38,501
{\an4}Venturing inside,
we discover an eerie,
274
00:14:38,501 --> 00:14:41,292
{\an4}crumbling world
of vandalized propaganda,
275
00:14:41,292 --> 00:14:44,834
{\an4}a roof that's barely held up
by its hammer and sickle,
276
00:14:44,834 --> 00:14:48,626
{\an4}and disintegrating mosaics --
once so proud,
277
00:14:48,626 --> 00:14:53,626
{\an4}and now just an artifact
of a failed system.
278
00:14:56,250 --> 00:14:57,209
{\an4}The Thracian Plain,
279
00:14:57,209 --> 00:15:00,459
{\an4}defined by Bulgaria's
two major mountain ranges,
280
00:15:00,459 --> 00:15:06,417
{\an4}was a busy funnel of trade
throughout ancient times.
281
00:15:06,417 --> 00:15:08,459
{\an4}Four centuries before Christ,
282
00:15:08,459 --> 00:15:09,501
{\an4}back when Socrates and Plato
283
00:15:09,501 --> 00:15:11,125
{\an4}were doing their thing
in Athens,
284
00:15:11,125 --> 00:15:12,999
{\an4}about 300 miles to the south --
285
00:15:12,999 --> 00:15:15,042
{\an4}Bulgaria was
known as "Thrace."
286
00:15:15,042 --> 00:15:17,751
{\an4}The Thracians were
an impressive civilization.
287
00:15:17,751 --> 00:15:20,999
{\an4}We've learned a lot about them
through their tombs.
288
00:15:20,999 --> 00:15:23,999
{\an4}Thracians buried their royalty
in distinctive,
289
00:15:23,999 --> 00:15:27,999
{\an4}dome-shaped tombs
that were covered in earth.
290
00:15:27,999 --> 00:15:28,876
{\an4}Dozens of these tombs
291
00:15:28,876 --> 00:15:30,375
{\an4}are scattered
across the valley,
292
00:15:30,375 --> 00:15:32,999
{\an4}along with hundreds
of decoy mounds
293
00:15:32,999 --> 00:15:35,375
{\an4}designed to fool
grave robbers.
294
00:15:35,375 --> 00:15:37,584
{\an4}Buried deep under
those piles of earth,
295
00:15:37,584 --> 00:15:39,959
{\an4}the tombs were impressive
engineering feats
296
00:15:39,959 --> 00:15:43,417
{\an4}from 300 years before Christ.
297
00:15:43,417 --> 00:15:45,417
{\an4}And this replica
tomb demonstrates
298
00:15:45,417 --> 00:15:46,959
{\an4}how even in the afterlife,
299
00:15:46,959 --> 00:15:48,626
{\an4}the deceased would be surrounded
300
00:15:48,626 --> 00:15:49,999
{\an4}by comforting images.
301
00:15:49,999 --> 00:15:50,999
{\an4}So, what do we have?
302
00:15:50,999 --> 00:15:54,626
{\an4}-We have the Thracian king who
is buried here
303
00:15:54,626 --> 00:15:56,999
{\an4}and the royal banquet
with the gods,
304
00:15:56,999 --> 00:15:59,626
{\an4}musicians, servants,
horses.
305
00:15:59,626 --> 00:16:02,709
{\an4}And on the top of it,
we have races with chariots,
306
00:16:02,709 --> 00:16:06,667
{\an4}which is a part of
a funeral procession.
307
00:16:06,667 --> 00:16:08,999
{\an4}-Tombs held a trove
of golden treasure,
308
00:16:08,999 --> 00:16:12,334
{\an4}now displayed in museums
throughout Bulgaria.
309
00:16:12,334 --> 00:16:13,999
{\an4}This bronze head
of a powerful
310
00:16:13,999 --> 00:16:18,876
{\an4}king humanizes those
ancient Thracians.
311
00:16:20,167 --> 00:16:23,417
{\an4}This region is also called
the "Valley of the Roses."
312
00:16:23,417 --> 00:16:27,209
{\an4}And we're here just in time
for the rose harvest.
313
00:16:27,209 --> 00:16:29,876
{\an4}[ Singing in native language ]
314
00:16:29,876 --> 00:16:33,292
{\an4}Vast fields of roses
bloom overnight.
315
00:16:33,292 --> 00:16:34,584
{\an4}Workers rise before the sun
316
00:16:34,584 --> 00:16:37,999
{\an4}to quickly hand-pick
the new blooms.
317
00:16:37,999 --> 00:16:38,999
{\an4}They need to work early,
318
00:16:38,999 --> 00:16:42,709
{\an4}before the rising sun
evaporates the essential oils.
319
00:16:42,709 --> 00:16:47,999
{\an4}While the fields smell sweet,
the work is hard.
320
00:16:49,918 --> 00:16:54,501
{\an4}At the distillery, millions
of blooms are quickly unloaded.
321
00:16:54,501 --> 00:16:56,417
{\an4}Freshness
is critical.
322
00:16:56,417 --> 00:16:58,375
{\an4}The bags of roses
are stacked high
323
00:16:58,375 --> 00:17:00,999
{\an4}before being dumped
into the stills.
324
00:17:03,626 --> 00:17:06,417
{\an4}So many flowers
and so much hard work.
325
00:17:06,417 --> 00:17:10,709
{\an4}The essential oils evaporate,
then re-condense...
326
00:17:10,709 --> 00:17:12,667
{\an4}like fragrant moonshine.
327
00:17:12,667 --> 00:17:16,125
{\an4}The payoff: a wide variety
of rose oil products,
328
00:17:16,125 --> 00:17:20,209
{\an4}appreciated both abroad
and at home.
329
00:17:25,375 --> 00:17:28,667
{\an4}Kazanlak, the main town
of the valley,
330
00:17:28,667 --> 00:17:30,667
{\an4}is especially festive in May.
331
00:17:30,667 --> 00:17:34,542
{\an4}And we happened to drop
in on a national holiday.
332
00:17:34,542 --> 00:17:36,834
{\an4}It's the Day
of Slavic Culture.
333
00:17:36,834 --> 00:17:42,667
{\an4}Throughout the country, school's
out and people are celebrating.
334
00:17:42,667 --> 00:17:43,999
{\an4}Like much of
the Slavic world,
335
00:17:43,999 --> 00:17:46,751
{\an4}Bulgaria uses
the Cyrillic alphabet.
336
00:17:46,751 --> 00:17:49,626
{\an4}And today, flowers
are laid at a monument
337
00:17:49,626 --> 00:17:50,876
{\an4}to Cyril and Methodius,
338
00:17:50,876 --> 00:17:54,125
{\an4}the missionary saints
who invented the Cyrillic script
339
00:17:54,125 --> 00:17:55,751
{\an4}to help introduce Christianity
340
00:17:55,751 --> 00:17:59,792
{\an4}to the Slavs back
in the 9th century.
341
00:17:59,792 --> 00:18:01,918
{\an4}It's a great excuse
for a parade:
342
00:18:01,918 --> 00:18:03,999
{\an4}a celebration not only
of their alphabet,
343
00:18:03,999 --> 00:18:08,999
{\an4}but of the Bulgarian language
and culture in general.
344
00:18:14,626 --> 00:18:19,501
{\an4}And it seems the entire town
has turned out for the event.
345
00:18:23,626 --> 00:18:26,959
{\an4}Our final stop is Bulgaria's
most enjoyable city,
346
00:18:26,959 --> 00:18:31,876
{\an4}Plovdiv -- with a history going
back centuries before Christ.
347
00:18:31,876 --> 00:18:32,999
{\an4}From its ruined acropolis,
348
00:18:32,999 --> 00:18:34,167
{\an4}it's easy to see the hills
349
00:18:34,167 --> 00:18:36,834
{\an4}upon which ancient
Plovdiv was built.
350
00:18:36,834 --> 00:18:41,209
{\an4}In the fourth century B.C.,
it was called Philippopolis...
351
00:18:41,209 --> 00:18:42,334
{\an4}the "City of Philip" --
352
00:18:42,334 --> 00:18:46,999
{\an4}he was the father
of Alexander the Great.
353
00:18:46,999 --> 00:18:49,459
{\an4}Centuries later,
the Roman Emperor Trajan
354
00:18:49,459 --> 00:18:52,999
{\an4}built this
5,000-seat theater.
355
00:18:52,999 --> 00:18:55,876
{\an4}The stage wall
is mostly intact.
356
00:18:55,876 --> 00:19:00,626
{\an4}The stony seats are etched
with their original numbers.
357
00:19:00,626 --> 00:19:01,876
{\an4}And the functioning theater
358
00:19:01,876 --> 00:19:05,501
{\an4}remains a part
of the community to this day.
359
00:19:08,083 --> 00:19:09,542
{\an4}On the surrounding hillsides,
360
00:19:09,542 --> 00:19:10,918
{\an4}Plovdiv's atmospheric Old Town
361
00:19:10,918 --> 00:19:15,042
{\an4}is a showcase of delightful
buildings from the 1800s --
362
00:19:15,042 --> 00:19:18,209
{\an4}a time when the ruling
Ottoman Empire was in decline
363
00:19:18,209 --> 00:19:22,584
{\an4}and Bulgarian cultural
pride was on the rise.
364
00:19:22,584 --> 00:19:26,334
{\an4}The style: "Bulgarian
National Revival."
365
00:19:26,334 --> 00:19:30,083
{\an4}One of the finest examples
is open to the public.
366
00:19:30,083 --> 00:19:31,626
{\an4}Hindliyan House was decorated
367
00:19:31,626 --> 00:19:34,709
{\an4}to the taste
of its merchant owner.
368
00:19:35,959 --> 00:19:39,167
{\an4}Elegant in its day,
it still feels lived-in,
369
00:19:39,167 --> 00:19:41,876
{\an4}with opulent seating rooms...
370
00:19:41,876 --> 00:19:44,667
{\an4}fine furnishings...
371
00:19:44,667 --> 00:19:48,792
{\an4}even a rose water fountain.
372
00:19:48,792 --> 00:19:49,999
{\an4}Souvenir wall paintings show off
373
00:19:49,999 --> 00:19:53,626
{\an4}some of the merchant's
far-flung business travels,
374
00:19:53,626 --> 00:19:57,626
{\an4}from Stockholm to Venice.
375
00:19:57,626 --> 00:19:59,999
{\an4}Nearby is a museum
celebrating the work
376
00:19:59,999 --> 00:20:03,626
{\an4}of the Bulgarian artist
Zlatyu Boyadzhiev.
377
00:20:03,626 --> 00:20:05,709
{\an4}Boyadzhiev -- this is
a self-portrait
378
00:20:05,709 --> 00:20:09,125
{\an4}with his wife -- was already
a well-established artist
379
00:20:09,125 --> 00:20:12,999
{\an4}when his health took
a terrible turn.
380
00:20:12,999 --> 00:20:14,999
{\an4}In 1951, he suffered a stroke,
381
00:20:14,999 --> 00:20:17,042
{\an4}which made his right
hand useless.
382
00:20:17,042 --> 00:20:17,999
{\an4}But that didn't stop him.
383
00:20:17,999 --> 00:20:19,999
{\an4}He picked up the brush
in his left hand
384
00:20:19,999 --> 00:20:22,375
{\an4}and learned to paint
brilliantly
385
00:20:22,375 --> 00:20:24,584
{\an4}in a completely different style.
386
00:20:24,584 --> 00:20:25,626
{\an4}Over the next 25 years,
387
00:20:25,626 --> 00:20:29,834
{\an4}he reveled in bright colors
with a childlike exuberance,
388
00:20:29,834 --> 00:20:30,334
{\an4}slapping thick,
389
00:20:30,334 --> 00:20:34,375
{\an4}Van Gogh-like
brushstrokes onto the canvas.
390
00:20:34,375 --> 00:20:36,584
{\an4}Boyadzhiev's best works feature
391
00:20:36,584 --> 00:20:38,999
{\an4}timeless slices of peasant life:
392
00:20:38,999 --> 00:20:43,125
{\an4}Back in pagan times,
people prayed not in temples,
393
00:20:43,125 --> 00:20:45,167
{\an4}but under trees.
394
00:20:45,167 --> 00:20:47,417
{\an4}Locals sit around
a public fountain
395
00:20:47,417 --> 00:20:49,709
{\an4}sipping glasses of wine.
396
00:20:49,709 --> 00:20:52,209
{\an4}Peasant women cluster
around a fire,
397
00:20:52,209 --> 00:20:55,417
{\an4}knitting as they eke out warmth.
398
00:20:56,834 --> 00:21:01,334
{\an4}A fattened pig is slaughtered
as townsfolk gather.
399
00:21:01,334 --> 00:21:04,667
{\an4}The importance of community
is celebrated --
400
00:21:04,667 --> 00:21:08,792
{\an4}and each weathered face
tells a story.
401
00:21:11,083 --> 00:21:13,292
{\an4}It's dinnertime,
and Stefan is taking us out
402
00:21:13,292 --> 00:21:15,999
{\an4}for a meal of updated
Bulgarian classics.
403
00:21:15,999 --> 00:21:18,918
{\an4}Prices are low here,
making even a splurge
404
00:21:18,918 --> 00:21:21,792
{\an4}like this surprisingly
affordable.
405
00:21:21,792 --> 00:21:22,999
{\an4}So, what is this drink, then?
406
00:21:22,999 --> 00:21:25,999
{\an4}-This is a traditional
Bulgarian drink,
407
00:21:25,999 --> 00:21:26,999
{\an4}and it is called "rakia."
408
00:21:26,999 --> 00:21:30,626
{\an4}-So, it's unusual for me to have
the firewater with the salad.
409
00:21:30,626 --> 00:21:32,083
{\an4}Is that typical in Bulgaria?
410
00:21:32,083 --> 00:21:34,250
{\an4}-It's very traditional
in Bulgaria.
411
00:21:34,250 --> 00:21:35,751
{\an4}And we sayNazdráve!
412
00:21:35,751 --> 00:21:36,999
{\an4}-Nazdráve!
-To your health.
413
00:21:36,999 --> 00:21:40,542
{\an4}-To your health.
Nazdráve!
414
00:21:40,542 --> 00:21:43,626
{\an4}You like it?
-Yes. Yes, of course.
415
00:21:43,626 --> 00:21:46,417
{\an4}-Now, this is funny
in Bulgaria --
416
00:21:46,417 --> 00:21:47,459
{\an4}you went "yes."
417
00:21:47,459 --> 00:21:48,876
{\an4}-Yes, of course.
-It's confusing
418
00:21:48,876 --> 00:21:50,501
{\an4}for a tourist because
we go "yes,"
419
00:21:50,501 --> 00:21:52,999
{\an4}and what is "no"?
-Ne. Ne.
420
00:21:52,999 --> 00:21:55,667
{\an4}-Ne. So, "no" --
-Yes.
421
00:21:55,667 --> 00:21:57,167
{\an4}-Da, ne.
-Okay.
422
00:21:57,167 --> 00:22:00,375
{\an4}Stefan, can I have another sip
of my rakia, please?
423
00:22:00,375 --> 00:22:02,459
{\an4}-Ne.
-No?
424
00:22:02,459 --> 00:22:03,501
{\an4}[ Laughter ]
425
00:22:03,501 --> 00:22:04,959
{\an4}As the second course arrives
426
00:22:04,959 --> 00:22:06,876
{\an4}it's clear that
Bulgarian cusine
427
00:22:06,876 --> 00:22:08,999
{\an4}is a tasty mix
of the many cultures
428
00:22:08,999 --> 00:22:10,918
{\an4}that have influenced
this country.
429
00:22:10,918 --> 00:22:13,083
{\an4}You know, this is, frankly,
more interesting
430
00:22:13,083 --> 00:22:13,999
{\an4}than I would expect --
431
00:22:13,999 --> 00:22:14,999
{\an4}when you go to "Eastern Europe,"
432
00:22:14,999 --> 00:22:17,999
{\an4}you think of potatoes, kraut,
and heavy meat,
433
00:22:17,999 --> 00:22:20,999
{\an4}but this is -- it feels more
Mediterranean.
434
00:22:20,999 --> 00:22:23,292
{\an4}-Yes, actually, you're right --
435
00:22:23,292 --> 00:22:26,999
{\an4}Bulgaria is a crossroads of
civilizations.
436
00:22:26,999 --> 00:22:28,876
{\an4}Between the north and south,
east and west.
437
00:22:28,876 --> 00:22:31,501
{\an4}-You got Mediterranean, so it's
a little bit of Greece,
438
00:22:31,501 --> 00:22:34,417
{\an4}a little bit of Turkey,
and a lot of Bulgaria.
439
00:22:34,417 --> 00:22:36,125
{\an4}-And a lot of Bulgaria.
440
00:22:36,125 --> 00:22:38,542
{\an4}♪♪
441
00:22:39,792 --> 00:22:42,501
{\an4}-While most tourists stick to
the cobbled old town,
442
00:22:42,501 --> 00:22:45,918
{\an4}modern Plovdiv has
plenty to offer, as well.
443
00:22:45,918 --> 00:22:47,834
{\an4}Just steps away
is the vibrant
444
00:22:47,834 --> 00:22:49,292
{\an4}and fun-loving corner of town
445
00:22:49,292 --> 00:22:51,125
{\an4}called the "Mousetrap."
446
00:22:51,125 --> 00:22:53,292
{\an4}Newly revitalized,
this artsy district
447
00:22:53,292 --> 00:22:56,999
{\an4}is where foodies and creative
young people congregate.
448
00:22:56,999 --> 00:22:58,918
{\an4}Thanks to some
progressive policies,
449
00:22:58,918 --> 00:23:01,501
{\an4}the graffiti in this
neighborhood seems to add to,
450
00:23:01,501 --> 00:23:06,334
{\an4}rather than detract
from, the ambience.
451
00:23:06,334 --> 00:23:09,417
{\an4}In Plovdiv, as in many
European cities,
452
00:23:09,417 --> 00:23:10,250
{\an4}local leaders understand
453
00:23:10,250 --> 00:23:13,334
{\an4}that buildings are
going to be tagged anyway.
454
00:23:13,334 --> 00:23:14,584
{\an4}Their pragmatic solution?
455
00:23:14,584 --> 00:23:18,999
{\an4}Commission only the best street
artists to create art,
456
00:23:18,999 --> 00:23:21,584
{\an4}rather than eyesores.
457
00:23:23,999 --> 00:23:27,167
{\an4}Plovdiv is a city
with many personalities,
458
00:23:27,167 --> 00:23:29,709
{\an4}built upon layers of history:
459
00:23:29,709 --> 00:23:32,167
{\an4}Under the 14th-century
Ottoman mosque,
460
00:23:32,167 --> 00:23:35,125
{\an4}they've excavated
an ancient stadium.
461
00:23:35,125 --> 00:23:38,167
{\an4}And these ruins have
been artfully integrated
462
00:23:38,167 --> 00:23:40,792
{\an4}into 21st-century life.
463
00:23:40,792 --> 00:23:43,834
{\an4}They kick off Plovdiv's
liveliest pedestrian boulevard,
464
00:23:43,834 --> 00:23:48,125
{\an4}where people promenade
in style, past inviting parks
465
00:23:48,125 --> 00:23:50,667
{\an4}and sidewalk cafés.
466
00:23:50,667 --> 00:23:52,999
{\an4}At this crossroads
of civilizations,
467
00:23:52,999 --> 00:23:54,999
{\an4}today's Bulgarians
have blended old
468
00:23:54,999 --> 00:23:59,999
{\an4}and new into a culture
distinctly their own.
469
00:24:07,334 --> 00:24:09,334
{\an4}Bulgaria
is a great place to travel.
470
00:24:09,334 --> 00:24:12,042
{\an4}A place where East
and West mix harmoniously.
471
00:24:12,042 --> 00:24:15,999
{\an4}The result: a land that's both
exotic and fun to visit.
472
00:24:15,999 --> 00:24:18,876
{\an4}Thanks for joining us.
I'm Rick Steves.
473
00:24:18,876 --> 00:24:22,334
{\an4}Until next time,
keep on travelin'.
474
00:24:22,667 --> 00:24:25,083
{\an4}Da. Ne.
475
00:24:25,375 --> 00:24:28,125
{\an4}Da. Ne.
476
00:24:28,125 --> 00:24:30,751
{\an4}Girls: -Da. -Rick: Yes.
Girls: -Ne. -Rick: No.
477
00:24:30,751 --> 00:24:33,417
{\an4}From that so-called
Turkish yoke.
478
00:24:39,999 --> 00:24:41,999
{\an4}-This is the royal dome here.
479
00:24:43,667 --> 00:24:46,918
{\an4}-Ow. I hurt my head.
Let's try again.
39860
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.