Would you like to inspect the original subtitles? These are the user uploaded subtitles that are being translated:
1
00:00:03,000 --> 00:00:04,000
{\an1}-Hi, I'm Rick Steves,
2
00:00:04,000 --> 00:00:05,000
back with more
of the best of Europe --
3
00:00:05,000 --> 00:00:09,000
{\an1}and this time, we're filling up
on some unforgettable culture.
4
00:00:09,000 --> 00:00:11,000
Holy cannoli!
5
00:00:11,000 --> 00:00:12,000
We're in Sicily.
6
00:00:12,000 --> 00:00:14,000
{\an1}Thanks for joining us.
7
00:00:14,000 --> 00:00:24,000
♪♪
8
00:00:24,000 --> 00:00:34,000
♪♪
9
00:00:34,000 --> 00:00:40,000
♪♪
10
00:00:40,000 --> 00:00:46,000
♪♪
11
00:00:46,000 --> 00:00:48,000
To better understand
what you see here in Sicily,
12
00:00:48,000 --> 00:00:50,000
{\an1}you need to understand
its story.
13
00:00:50,000 --> 00:00:53,000
{\an1}Over the last 2,500 years,
the island of Sicily
14
00:00:53,000 --> 00:00:56,000
{\an1}has been ruled by Greeks,
Romans, Arabs,
15
00:00:56,000 --> 00:01:00,000
Normans and Spaniards
before becoming part of Italy.
16
00:01:00,000 --> 00:01:03,000
{\an1}The island's complicated past
makes it distinct from Italy.
17
00:01:03,000 --> 00:01:06,000
{\an1}It's got its own cuisine,
a more festive lifestyle,
18
00:01:06,000 --> 00:01:10,000
{\an1}people who are Sicilian first
and Italians second.
19
00:01:10,000 --> 00:01:14,000
{\an1}In this episode filled
with Sicilian delights,
20
00:01:14,000 --> 00:01:17,000
{\an1}we'll go backstage for
some traditional puppetry,
21
00:01:17,000 --> 00:01:23,000
{\an1}stay on a farmhouse B&B
and enjoy a gourmet local feast.
22
00:01:23,000 --> 00:01:29,000
{\an1}We'll explore an ancient quarry
and venture to the Isle of Mozia
23
00:01:29,000 --> 00:01:32,000
with its ancient
Carthaginian ruins.
24
00:01:32,000 --> 00:01:35,000
{\an1}We'll ponder the meaning of life
in an unforgettable crypt
25
00:01:35,000 --> 00:01:39,000
{\an1}before sipping cappuccino
with a Capuchin.
26
00:01:39,000 --> 00:01:42,000
{\an1}The island of Sicily is
the southernmost part of Italy.
27
00:01:42,000 --> 00:01:48,000
We start in Siracusa,
visit Cefalù, stop in Palermo,
28
00:01:48,000 --> 00:01:53,000
{\an1}sail to the tiny isle of Mozia,
before finishing in Trapani.
29
00:01:56,000 --> 00:02:00,000
{\an1}Like so much of Sicily, Syracuse
has ancient Greek origins.
30
00:02:00,000 --> 00:02:03,000
{\an1}The great city-states
of Greece were expansive,
31
00:02:03,000 --> 00:02:06,000
{\an1}searching the Mediterranean
for more fertile lands.
32
00:02:06,000 --> 00:02:10,000
{\an1}Athens and Sparta dominated,
but lots of other Greek cities,
33
00:02:10,000 --> 00:02:13,000
like Corinth, were
establishing colonies as well.
34
00:02:13,000 --> 00:02:16,000
{\an1}These new settlements created
a broader Greek culture
35
00:02:16,000 --> 00:02:20,000
{\an1}known as Magna Graecia,
or "Greater Greece."
36
00:02:20,000 --> 00:02:23,000
{\an1}Greek culture flourished here
in Syracuse.
37
00:02:23,000 --> 00:02:26,000
Founded in 732 B.C.
by the Corinthians,
38
00:02:27,000 --> 00:02:28,000
it grew to become
an even greater,
39
00:02:29,000 --> 00:02:31,000
{\an1}more important city than Athens.
40
00:02:31,000 --> 00:02:34,000
{\an1}In fact, Syracuse eventually
defeated the Athenians
41
00:02:34,000 --> 00:02:37,000
{\an1}in battle in this very bay.
42
00:02:37,000 --> 00:02:40,000
{\an1}The Temple of Apollo, marking
the center of old Syracuse,
43
00:02:40,000 --> 00:02:43,000
was the first stone
Greek temple in Sicily.
44
00:02:43,000 --> 00:02:47,000
{\an1}It dates from 600 B.C.
45
00:02:47,000 --> 00:02:50,000
{\an1}And Syracuse nurtured
the brightest minds
46
00:02:50,000 --> 00:02:53,000
{\an1}of the ancient world,
like Archimedes.
47
00:02:53,000 --> 00:02:54,000
{\an1}The inventions of this
48
00:02:54,000 --> 00:02:56,000
scientist-physicist-
philosopher-genius
49
00:02:57,000 --> 00:02:58,000
{\an1}from the 3rd century B.C.
50
00:02:58,000 --> 00:03:02,000
helped his hometown
defend itself from invasions.
51
00:03:04,000 --> 00:03:07,000
Modern Siracusa
sprawls across the mainland,
52
00:03:07,000 --> 00:03:11,000
{\an1}but the city was born on
the fortified island of Ortygia.
53
00:03:11,000 --> 00:03:14,000
{\an1}That's where you'll find
many of the ancient sites
54
00:03:14,000 --> 00:03:17,000
{\an1}and most of the medieval charm.
55
00:03:17,000 --> 00:03:19,000
{\an1}With its shabby-chic vibe,
56
00:03:19,000 --> 00:03:23,000
{\an1}delightful back lanes and breezy
sea views, old Siracusa is,
57
00:03:23,000 --> 00:03:29,000
{\an1}for me, the most enjoyable urban
environment anywhere in Sicily.
58
00:03:29,000 --> 00:03:31,000
{\an1}Just a generation ago,
59
00:03:31,000 --> 00:03:34,000
Ortygia was a rough
and unwelcoming zone,
60
00:03:34,000 --> 00:03:36,000
{\an1}almost empty of commerce,
61
00:03:36,000 --> 00:03:40,000
and today, stoked by
its influx of tourism,
62
00:03:40,000 --> 00:03:44,000
{\an1}it has a bohemian energy
that fills it with a joyful
63
00:03:44,000 --> 00:03:46,000
{\an1}and relaxed ambiance.
64
00:03:49,000 --> 00:03:52,000
{\an1}The long and narrow side lanes
are part of a street plan
65
00:03:52,000 --> 00:03:55,000
dating way back
to ancient times.
66
00:03:55,000 --> 00:03:58,000
{\an1}Balconies festooned with laundry
are reminders
67
00:03:58,000 --> 00:04:02,000
that this is still
a real neighborhood.
68
00:04:03,000 --> 00:04:06,000
{\an1}I always say, "If you like
Italy, you'll love Sicily,"
69
00:04:06,000 --> 00:04:09,000
{\an1}and I especially feel that
in its markets.
70
00:04:09,000 --> 00:04:11,000
{\an1}-[ Speaking Italian ]
71
00:04:11,000 --> 00:04:13,000
-Each morning,
72
00:04:13,000 --> 00:04:16,000
{\an1}this street hosts a lively fish
and produce market.
73
00:04:16,000 --> 00:04:18,000
{\an1}-[ Speaking Italian ]
-This shop is jam-packed
74
00:04:19,000 --> 00:04:22,000
{\an1}for its beloved specialty --
jam-packed panini.
75
00:04:22,000 --> 00:04:24,000
{\an1}-[ Speaking Italian ]
76
00:04:24,000 --> 00:04:26,000
{\an1}-To be sure we maximize
77
00:04:26,000 --> 00:04:29,000
the delights
of our Sicilian experience,
78
00:04:29,000 --> 00:04:34,000
{\an1}I'm joined by my friend and
fellow tour guide Alfio Di Maro,
79
00:04:34,000 --> 00:04:35,000
and Alfio is expert
80
00:04:35,000 --> 00:04:38,000
at connecting
with the local characters.
81
00:04:38,000 --> 00:04:41,000
{\an1}-[ Speaking Italian ]
-Nice.
82
00:04:41,000 --> 00:04:43,000
-Buongiorno, Angelo.
-Ciao! Ciao! Come stai?
83
00:04:43,000 --> 00:04:47,000
{\an1}-[ Speaking Italian ]
The swordfish...
84
00:04:47,000 --> 00:04:49,000
Angelo always has
the best swordfish.
85
00:04:49,000 --> 00:04:52,000
{\an1}-[ Speaking Italian ]
-He just caught it.
86
00:04:52,000 --> 00:04:55,000
{\an1}This was used until not long ago
87
00:04:55,000 --> 00:04:57,000
to make needles
to mend the nets.
88
00:04:57,000 --> 00:04:58,000
-Oh, for knitting
the nets together?
89
00:04:58,000 --> 00:05:00,000
-Yeah.
And even to do knitting needle.
90
00:05:00,000 --> 00:05:04,000
{\an1}-This is really remarkable.
-It's very resistant.
91
00:05:04,000 --> 00:05:05,000
-Look at that.
-Very resistant.
92
00:05:06,000 --> 00:05:08,000
-Ancora. Wow.
93
00:05:08,000 --> 00:05:10,000
{\an1}-When you have a fresh fish
like this,
94
00:05:10,000 --> 00:05:11,000
{\an1}the meat is delicious.
95
00:05:11,000 --> 00:05:12,000
-Fantastic.
Angelo.
96
00:05:12,000 --> 00:05:13,000
-Si?
-Buon lavoro.
97
00:05:13,000 --> 00:05:16,000
{\an1}-[ Conversing in Italian ]
98
00:05:20,000 --> 00:05:22,000
{\an1}-Sicily is brutally hot
in the summer.
99
00:05:22,000 --> 00:05:25,000
I like to visit
in spring or fall,
100
00:05:25,000 --> 00:05:26,000
and even in April --
when we're here --
101
00:05:26,000 --> 00:05:30,000
{\an1}a stop for a drink at the kiosk
can be really refreshing.
102
00:05:30,000 --> 00:05:32,000
What's this?
-It's a specialty...Ciao!
103
00:05:32,000 --> 00:05:34,000
Ciao.
-Ciao. Buonasera.
104
00:05:34,000 --> 00:05:37,000
{\an1}-Due seltz limone e sale.
105
00:05:37,000 --> 00:05:39,000
{\an1}-So what is the name again?
-It's a refreshing drink.
106
00:05:39,000 --> 00:05:42,000
{\an1}It's seltzer, lemon, and salt.
107
00:05:42,000 --> 00:05:43,000
-Okay.
Good.
108
00:05:43,000 --> 00:05:46,000
{\an1}-Ideal in the summer.
-Molto rinfrescante --
109
00:05:46,000 --> 00:05:49,000
very refreshing.
110
00:05:49,000 --> 00:05:51,000
{\an1}Then, with a spoon, salt.
111
00:05:51,000 --> 00:05:53,000
-Rinfrescante.
112
00:05:53,000 --> 00:05:56,000
-Rinfrescante.
-Perfetto!
113
00:05:56,000 --> 00:05:59,000
-All right. Grazie.
114
00:05:59,000 --> 00:06:01,000
Mmm.
115
00:06:01,000 --> 00:06:03,000
Nearby, the facade
of the cathedral
116
00:06:03,000 --> 00:06:05,000
{\an1}provides quite a contrast.
117
00:06:05,000 --> 00:06:07,000
{\an1}Built in the 18th century,
118
00:06:07,000 --> 00:06:10,000
{\an1}it was inspired by the great
baroque churches of Rome
119
00:06:11,000 --> 00:06:16,000
{\an1}but amped up with a Sicilian
architectural razzle-dazzle.
120
00:06:16,000 --> 00:06:20,000
{\an1}The apostles Peter and Paul
greet you at street level,
121
00:06:20,000 --> 00:06:24,000
while Mary blesses
all from above.
122
00:06:24,000 --> 00:06:27,000
{\an1}Stepping inside, you see
the church is a lot like
123
00:06:27,000 --> 00:06:31,000
Sicily itself --
a layer cake of civilizations.
124
00:06:31,000 --> 00:06:35,000
{\an1}It was built into an ancient
Greek temple.
125
00:06:35,000 --> 00:06:38,000
{\an1}The temple's 2,500-year-old
colonnade survives
126
00:06:38,000 --> 00:06:41,000
{\an1}as part of the church's walls,
127
00:06:41,000 --> 00:06:44,000
{\an1}and because a pagan temple
had no transepts,
128
00:06:44,000 --> 00:06:47,000
{\an1}neither does this church.
129
00:06:47,000 --> 00:06:49,000
The fine workmanship
of the capitals
130
00:06:49,000 --> 00:06:52,000
{\an1}survives from ancient times.
131
00:06:52,000 --> 00:06:59,000
♪♪
132
00:06:59,000 --> 00:07:01,000
{\an1}In Sicily, you hear the same
basic story
133
00:07:01,000 --> 00:07:03,000
{\an1}of the parade of civilizations
over and over --
134
00:07:03,000 --> 00:07:06,000
{\an1}ancient temple, church,
mosque, church.
135
00:07:06,000 --> 00:07:09,000
{\an1}Here in Syracuse, this was
originally a Greek temple
136
00:07:09,000 --> 00:07:10,000
{\an1}built to honor Athena.
137
00:07:10,000 --> 00:07:12,000
{\an1}Then, 1,000 years later
with Byzantine rule,
138
00:07:12,000 --> 00:07:14,000
the temple was made
into a church.
139
00:07:14,000 --> 00:07:16,000
{\an1}Next, in the 9th century,
140
00:07:16,000 --> 00:07:18,000
{\an1}the Arabs sweep in from
just over there, North Africa --
141
00:07:18,000 --> 00:07:20,000
Christians out,
Muslims in,
142
00:07:20,000 --> 00:07:21,000
{\an1}and it became a mosque.
143
00:07:21,000 --> 00:07:23,000
{\an1}Then it's a church again
as the Normans from France
144
00:07:24,000 --> 00:07:26,000
conquer Sicily
in the 11th century.
145
00:07:26,000 --> 00:07:28,000
{\an1}After a huge earthquake
hit in 1693,
146
00:07:29,000 --> 00:07:30,000
{\an1}the cathedral was rebuilt
147
00:07:30,000 --> 00:07:33,000
{\an1}in today's supercharged
baroque style.
148
00:07:33,000 --> 00:07:35,000
Whew.
149
00:07:35,000 --> 00:07:37,000
{\an1}The Cathedral Square,
or Piazza Duomo,
150
00:07:38,000 --> 00:07:40,000
is a mishmash
of architectural styles.
151
00:07:41,000 --> 00:07:43,000
{\an1}It serves as a delightful stage
152
00:07:43,000 --> 00:07:47,000
upon which the story
of this community plays out.
153
00:07:47,000 --> 00:07:51,000
{\an1}Its graceful, semicircular
design is a baroque trick,
154
00:07:51,000 --> 00:07:52,000
{\an1}designed to give the feeling
155
00:07:52,000 --> 00:07:57,000
{\an1}that this is a theater
for life in this community.
156
00:07:57,000 --> 00:07:59,000
{\an1}It's the gathering place
of the town,
157
00:08:00,000 --> 00:08:02,000
{\an1}a magnet for all generations.
158
00:08:03,000 --> 00:08:08,000
♪♪
159
00:08:08,000 --> 00:08:11,000
On one of the nearby
narrow streets,
160
00:08:11,000 --> 00:08:13,000
Alfio is treating me
to something I haven't seen
161
00:08:13,000 --> 00:08:15,000
since I was a kid.
162
00:08:15,000 --> 00:08:18,000
{\an1}Puppetry is a strong tradition
here in Sicily.
163
00:08:18,000 --> 00:08:22,000
{\an1}This theater company puts on
nearly nightly performances.
164
00:08:23,000 --> 00:08:26,000
{\an1}Its young troupe of puppeteers
takes their art seriously.
165
00:08:27,000 --> 00:08:31,000
{\an1}The marionettes are lovingly
made and true to tradition.
166
00:08:35,000 --> 00:08:36,000
{\an1}-[ Speaking Italian ]
167
00:08:36,000 --> 00:08:38,000
{\an1}-The puppeteers skillfully
bring the characters
168
00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:41,000
to life
as the plot unfolds.
169
00:08:41,000 --> 00:08:43,000
{\an1}-[ Speaking Italian ]
170
00:08:49,000 --> 00:08:52,000
{\an1}-The melodrama of an old
Sicilian tale fills the theater,
171
00:08:52,000 --> 00:08:55,000
{\an1}captivating its audience
as this folkloric art form
172
00:08:55,000 --> 00:08:58,000
has for centuries.
173
00:09:03,000 --> 00:09:06,000
{\an1}The ancient Greek city
of Syracuse is long gone,
174
00:09:07,000 --> 00:09:09,000
{\an1}but wandering through
its scant remains
175
00:09:09,000 --> 00:09:11,000
in the city's
archaeological park,
176
00:09:11,000 --> 00:09:15,000
you pick up hints
of its former power.
177
00:09:15,000 --> 00:09:18,000
At its peak,
around the 5th century B.C.,
178
00:09:18,000 --> 00:09:20,000
{\an1}Greek Syracuse had roughly
the same population
179
00:09:20,000 --> 00:09:23,000
it has today --
over 100,000 people.
180
00:09:23,000 --> 00:09:25,000
{\an1}It was the dominant military
and economic power
181
00:09:25,000 --> 00:09:28,000
in this corner
of the Greek world.
182
00:09:28,000 --> 00:09:30,000
{\an1}With a commanding harbor view,
183
00:09:30,000 --> 00:09:34,000
{\an1}the ancient Greek theater
originally sat 15,000.
184
00:09:34,000 --> 00:09:40,000
{\an1}While it dates from 500 B.C.,
it's still in use today.
185
00:09:40,000 --> 00:09:43,000
{\an1}The terrace above the theater
functioned as a grand lobby
186
00:09:43,000 --> 00:09:47,000
{\an1}covered by a wooden roof
and decorated with fine statues.
187
00:09:47,000 --> 00:09:50,000
The waterfall
is part of an aqueduct --
188
00:09:50,000 --> 00:09:53,000
{\an1}a man-made, underground river
carved out of the rock --
189
00:09:53,000 --> 00:09:55,000
allowing freshwater
to flow 15 miles
190
00:09:55,000 --> 00:09:59,000
from a mountain
spring into the city.
191
00:09:59,000 --> 00:10:03,000
{\an1}The stone that built ancient
Syracuse was quarried on-site
192
00:10:03,000 --> 00:10:05,000
{\an1}by enslaved prisoners of war.
193
00:10:05,000 --> 00:10:09,000
{\an1}Today, that quarry is overgrown
with lush vegetation,
194
00:10:09,000 --> 00:10:12,000
{\an1}and, while it's called
the "Garden of Paradise,"
195
00:10:12,000 --> 00:10:15,000
it's filled
with tragic memories.
196
00:10:15,000 --> 00:10:21,000
♪♪
197
00:10:21,000 --> 00:10:22,000
It's easy to forget
when marveling at these
198
00:10:23,000 --> 00:10:26,000
{\an1}ancient theaters and temples
that slave labor quarried
199
00:10:26,000 --> 00:10:29,000
{\an1}and carried the stones
that made it all possible.
200
00:10:29,000 --> 00:10:32,000
{\an1}Back then, many soldiers
willingly fought to the death
201
00:10:32,000 --> 00:10:34,000
{\an1}because they knew that life
as a prisoner of war --
202
00:10:35,000 --> 00:10:38,000
{\an1}or slave -- was even worse.
203
00:10:38,000 --> 00:10:42,000
{\an1}The quarry was like a huge
underground concentration camp,
204
00:10:42,000 --> 00:10:44,000
{\an1}a hellish place where slaves
205
00:10:44,000 --> 00:10:48,000
{\an1}lived out their miserable
lives cutting stone.
206
00:10:48,000 --> 00:10:51,000
{\an1}Gazing at the one tower of stone
still standing,
207
00:10:51,000 --> 00:10:54,000
{\an1}imagine that this was a pillar
helping support the roof
208
00:10:54,000 --> 00:10:57,000
{\an1}of a giant man-made cavern.
209
00:10:57,000 --> 00:11:02,000
That roof collapsed
with an earthquake in 1693.
210
00:11:02,000 --> 00:11:07,000
{\an1}A surviving quarry cavern is
nicknamed "the Ear of Dionysus."
211
00:11:07,000 --> 00:11:10,000
{\an1}Venturing in, you can still see
the chisel lines showing
212
00:11:10,000 --> 00:11:14,000
how it was cut over the
generations from the top down.
213
00:11:14,000 --> 00:11:19,000
♪♪
214
00:11:19,000 --> 00:11:22,000
{\an1}A car is handy for exploring
Sicily.
215
00:11:22,000 --> 00:11:26,000
{\an1}Once in the countryside,
traffic is sparse.
216
00:11:26,000 --> 00:11:30,000
{\an1}Autostratas are top quality
and make getting around faster
217
00:11:30,000 --> 00:11:33,000
and less stressful
than smaller roads.
218
00:11:33,000 --> 00:11:36,000
{\an1}While most of Italy's
super freeways come with tolls,
219
00:11:36,000 --> 00:11:38,000
{\an1}Sicily's are generally
toll-free --
220
00:11:38,000 --> 00:11:40,000
{\an1}one of many economic subsidies
221
00:11:40,000 --> 00:11:44,000
from the more
prosperous northern Italy.
222
00:11:44,000 --> 00:11:46,000
{\an1}We're heading across the island,
and we're breaking our journey
223
00:11:46,000 --> 00:11:49,000
near the south coast
at an agriturismo --
224
00:11:49,000 --> 00:11:54,000
{\an1}an upscale B&B nestled in
an olive and almond orchard.
225
00:11:54,000 --> 00:11:56,000
{\an1}Here in Italy, working farms
with rooms to rent
226
00:11:56,000 --> 00:11:59,000
{\an1}are called "agriturismo."
227
00:12:01,000 --> 00:12:04,000
{\an1}Across Europe, small farms
supplement their income
228
00:12:04,000 --> 00:12:06,000
{\an1}by renting rooms to travelers
229
00:12:06,000 --> 00:12:10,000
{\an1}seeking a rural refuge
from fast-paced urban scenes.
230
00:12:13,000 --> 00:12:17,000
{\an1}The Mandranova estate comes with
a rustic-but-elegant dinner,
231
00:12:17,000 --> 00:12:19,000
{\an1}offering a great chance
for travelers
232
00:12:19,000 --> 00:12:21,000
{\an1}to share stories from the road.
233
00:12:25,000 --> 00:12:28,000
{\an1}And we cap our day enjoying
a convivial atmosphere
234
00:12:28,000 --> 00:12:30,000
where, under
palm trees and stars,
235
00:12:31,000 --> 00:12:34,000
{\an1}our host enjoys sharing
his olives and almonds
236
00:12:34,000 --> 00:12:39,000
{\an1}while getting to know
his guests.
237
00:12:42,000 --> 00:12:44,000
{\an7}Our next stop is Cefalù,
238
00:12:44,000 --> 00:12:48,000
{\an8}beautifully situated
on the north coast.
239
00:12:48,000 --> 00:12:51,000
Cefalù is Sicily's
most romantic port town.
240
00:12:51,000 --> 00:12:53,000
{\an1}With a golden crescent beach
241
00:12:53,000 --> 00:12:55,000
and sitting safely
under its dramatic rocks --
242
00:12:55,000 --> 00:12:57,000
{\an1}still capped by a fortress --
243
00:12:57,000 --> 00:13:02,000
Cefalù cradles its past
in a way that's easy to enjoy.
244
00:13:02,000 --> 00:13:05,000
{\an1}Since the town was founded,
its streets have lined up
245
00:13:05,000 --> 00:13:09,000
{\an1}with the prevailing wind
to catch the cooling breeze,
246
00:13:09,000 --> 00:13:12,000
and to this day,
laundry flaps in that breeze.
247
00:13:14,000 --> 00:13:18,000
{\an1}And for a thousand years --
whether ruled by Arabs,
248
00:13:18,000 --> 00:13:19,000
{\an1}Normans, French, or Spanish --
249
00:13:20,000 --> 00:13:21,000
{\an1}the women of the town
gathered here
250
00:13:21,000 --> 00:13:26,000
on these very stones
to scrub their laundry.
251
00:13:26,000 --> 00:13:29,000
{\an1}In Sicily, there's history
everywhere.
252
00:13:29,000 --> 00:13:30,000
In the 11th century,
253
00:13:30,000 --> 00:13:35,000
{\an1}Sicily's Arab rulers were booted
out by the Normans from France.
254
00:13:35,000 --> 00:13:37,000
{\an1}This cathedral is Norman.
255
00:13:37,000 --> 00:13:41,000
{\an1}Built to double as a fortress,
it's crenulated like a castle,
256
00:13:41,000 --> 00:13:45,000
{\an1}and it comes complete with slits
for shooting arrows.
257
00:13:45,000 --> 00:13:47,000
Inside, columns that
2,000 years ago
258
00:13:48,000 --> 00:13:52,000
{\an1}supported a pagan Roman temple
now support Norman arches.
259
00:13:52,000 --> 00:13:57,000
{\an1}They lead to a serene mosaic
portrayal of an Orthodox Christ.
260
00:13:57,000 --> 00:13:59,000
{\an1}During this complicated age,
261
00:13:59,000 --> 00:14:01,000
{\an1}it was intentionally Eastern
in style
262
00:14:01,000 --> 00:14:05,000
{\an1}to help make Norman rule easier
for locals to accept.
263
00:14:08,000 --> 00:14:11,000
{\an1}Here in Cefalù, like anywhere
in the Mediterranean,
264
00:14:11,000 --> 00:14:14,000
early evenings
bring out a parade of people.
265
00:14:14,000 --> 00:14:17,000
{\an1}It's like cruising without cars,
266
00:14:17,000 --> 00:14:23,000
{\an1}a multigenerational scene
from families to grandparents.
267
00:14:23,000 --> 00:14:25,000
{\an1}Old-timers remain part
of the action.
268
00:14:28,000 --> 00:14:30,000
{\an1}And anyone's attention
can be hijacked
269
00:14:30,000 --> 00:14:34,000
{\an1}by tempting window displays.
270
00:14:34,000 --> 00:14:36,000
{\an1}All this strolling stokes
my appetite,
271
00:14:37,000 --> 00:14:40,000
and we're ready
for some Sicilian cuisine.
272
00:14:40,000 --> 00:14:42,000
Here, surrounded
by the Mediterranean,
273
00:14:42,000 --> 00:14:46,000
{\an1}menus are rich in seafood,
and courses come in waves.
274
00:14:47,000 --> 00:14:48,000
Thank you.
275
00:14:48,000 --> 00:14:50,000
{\an1}After the appetizers,
or antipasti,
276
00:14:51,000 --> 00:14:53,000
the first course,
or primi piatto,
277
00:14:53,000 --> 00:14:56,000
is generally pasta.
278
00:14:56,000 --> 00:14:59,000
{\an1}We're having spaghetti
with clams,
279
00:14:59,000 --> 00:15:02,000
risotto with mussels
on flatbread
280
00:15:02,000 --> 00:15:07,000
{\an1}and the Sicilian favorite --
pasta with sardines.
281
00:15:07,000 --> 00:15:09,000
The second course,
secondo,
282
00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:14,000
{\an1}is our entrée, and no surprise,
it's more seafood --
283
00:15:14,000 --> 00:15:16,000
fresh local shrimp,
284
00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:18,000
calamari,
285
00:15:18,000 --> 00:15:21,000
and swordfish rolls,
286
00:15:21,000 --> 00:15:24,000
{\an1}and, while I'm certainly
enjoying my calamari,
287
00:15:24,000 --> 00:15:26,000
I'm not above
a little shrimp thievery
288
00:15:27,000 --> 00:15:30,000
to make sure I enjoy
everything Cefalù has to offer.
289
00:15:34,000 --> 00:15:36,000
{\an1}One of Sicily's quirkiest
charms --
290
00:15:36,000 --> 00:15:38,000
nearby in the city
of Palermo --
291
00:15:38,000 --> 00:15:42,000
is in a crypt below
its Capuchin monastery.
292
00:15:42,000 --> 00:15:45,000
{\an1}The Capuchins, a branch
of the Franciscan order,
293
00:15:45,000 --> 00:15:49,000
{\an1}have a passion for reminding
people of their mortality.
294
00:15:49,000 --> 00:15:51,000
Historically,
when their brothers died,
295
00:15:51,000 --> 00:15:55,000
{\an1}their bones were saved
and put on display.
296
00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:59,000
{\an1}The Capuchins of Palermo took
this tradition a step further:
297
00:15:59,000 --> 00:16:02,000
Rather
than just saving bones,
298
00:16:02,000 --> 00:16:05,000
{\an1}they preserved the bodies
in their entirety.
299
00:16:09,000 --> 00:16:10,000
{\an1}Back in the 16th century,
300
00:16:10,000 --> 00:16:13,000
the monks here found
that this particular crypt
301
00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:16,000
preserved bodies
almost miraculously.
302
00:16:16,000 --> 00:16:18,000
They later realized
that they could actually charge
303
00:16:18,000 --> 00:16:20,000
wealthy parishioners
for the privilege
304
00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:23,000
{\an1}of being mummified here
with their brothers,
305
00:16:23,000 --> 00:16:26,000
{\an1}and this helped raise money
to support their monastery.
306
00:16:26,000 --> 00:16:30,000
{\an1}This maze of corridors contains
thousands of skeletons
307
00:16:30,000 --> 00:16:35,000
{\an1}and mummies dressed in
the clothing of their choice.
308
00:16:35,000 --> 00:16:38,000
Each area features
a different group:
309
00:16:38,000 --> 00:16:42,000
{\an1}monks in their brown robes,
310
00:16:42,000 --> 00:16:46,000
{\an1}women with their favorite
dresses,
311
00:16:46,000 --> 00:16:50,000
{\an1}priests with their vestments,
312
00:16:50,000 --> 00:16:55,000
{\an1}soldiers still in uniform,
and children
313
00:16:55,000 --> 00:16:59,000
looking almost as
if taking a long nap.
314
00:16:59,000 --> 00:17:01,000
The oldest body --
Brother Sylvester --
315
00:17:01,000 --> 00:17:06,000
{\an1}has been hanging here
since 1599.
316
00:17:06,000 --> 00:17:09,000
{\an1}One of the brothers gave me
a lovely little sermon.
317
00:17:09,000 --> 00:17:12,000
{\an1}He explained that our time
on Earth is short
318
00:17:12,000 --> 00:17:15,000
{\an1}and what really matters
is what comes next.
319
00:17:16,000 --> 00:17:19,000
{\an1}These "bodies without souls,"
as they call them,
320
00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:23,000
are a reminder
that we're all mortal.
321
00:17:23,000 --> 00:17:26,000
{\an1}For this monk, being with all
these bodies
322
00:17:26,000 --> 00:17:28,000
{\an1}brought him great joy and peace,
323
00:17:29,000 --> 00:17:32,000
{\an1}as it caused him to focus
not on our earthly existence
324
00:17:32,000 --> 00:17:36,000
but on eternity.
325
00:17:36,000 --> 00:17:38,000
{\an1}Today, the public is welcome
to wander
326
00:17:38,000 --> 00:17:41,000
{\an1}thoughtfully through these halls
of haunting faces,
327
00:17:41,000 --> 00:17:43,000
{\an1}which seem determined
to tell us a truth
328
00:17:44,000 --> 00:17:46,000
{\an1}that perhaps we've yet to learn.
329
00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:51,000
I'm not quite ready
for a Capuchin crypt,
330
00:17:51,000 --> 00:17:54,000
{\an1}but I could go for a Capu-ccino,
331
00:17:54,000 --> 00:17:56,000
and I'm joined
by my Capuchin friend --
332
00:17:56,000 --> 00:17:58,000
{\an1}who, in good Franciscan style,
333
00:17:58,000 --> 00:18:01,000
enjoys embracing
the moment as well.
334
00:18:01,000 --> 00:18:03,000
{\an1}-[ Speaking Italian ]
-So, we have the same colors?
335
00:18:03,000 --> 00:18:05,000
-Yes, same color.
This...
336
00:18:05,000 --> 00:18:07,000
-Brown...
-Brown.
337
00:18:07,000 --> 00:18:09,000
{\an1}-...and the white in the robe.
-Yes.
338
00:18:09,000 --> 00:18:10,000
{\an1}-So, we got the white
and the brown.
339
00:18:10,000 --> 00:18:13,000
Enjoy.
340
00:18:13,000 --> 00:18:16,000
{\an1}Sicily comes with dramatic
coastal scenery,
341
00:18:16,000 --> 00:18:18,000
{\an1}and we're heading west.
342
00:18:18,000 --> 00:18:19,000
Distances are short,
343
00:18:19,000 --> 00:18:24,000
{\an1}and the island is dotted
with fascinations.
344
00:18:24,000 --> 00:18:27,000
{\an1}The shallow lagoon surrounding
the island of Mozia
345
00:18:27,000 --> 00:18:30,000
{\an1}is ideal for extracting salt
from the sea,
346
00:18:31,000 --> 00:18:32,000
{\an1}and for thousands of years,
347
00:18:32,000 --> 00:18:34,000
locals have labored
in salt pools
348
00:18:34,000 --> 00:18:39,000
{\an1}like these as part of
this essential industry.
349
00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:42,000
A short boat ride
gives us a closer look.
350
00:18:42,000 --> 00:18:43,000
-So, Alfio,
this is, like,
351
00:18:43,000 --> 00:18:47,000
{\an1}a mountain of salt with tile
to protect it from the wind.
352
00:18:47,000 --> 00:18:48,000
-It is.
It is.
353
00:18:49,000 --> 00:18:51,000
-Salt must have been
a very important industry.
354
00:18:51,000 --> 00:18:53,000
{\an1}-It was a vital industry.
355
00:18:53,000 --> 00:18:57,000
{\an1}In ancient times, if you
didn't have salt, you'd die.
356
00:18:57,000 --> 00:18:58,000
{\an1}There was no refrigeration,
357
00:18:58,000 --> 00:19:01,000
{\an1}and the food was preserved
mainly by salt.
358
00:19:01,000 --> 00:19:03,000
{\an1}-How long did they have
salt pools here?
359
00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:06,000
-The Carthaginians,
when they came here,
360
00:19:06,000 --> 00:19:10,000
{\an1}they established this salt
flats in the 8th century B.C.
361
00:19:10,000 --> 00:19:12,000
-Until today --
they're still getting the salt.
362
00:19:12,000 --> 00:19:14,000
{\an1}-Yeah, as we can see.
363
00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:18,000
-We're heading for
the tiny island of Mozia.
364
00:19:18,000 --> 00:19:22,000
{\an1}Along with salt, this lagoon
provided a safe haven
365
00:19:22,000 --> 00:19:24,000
{\an1}for ancient mariners.
366
00:19:24,000 --> 00:19:26,000
In fact, 800 years
before Christ,
367
00:19:26,000 --> 00:19:29,000
{\an1}Carthaginians settled here.
368
00:19:29,000 --> 00:19:31,000
{\an1}Today, this island is strewn
with the scant
369
00:19:31,000 --> 00:19:35,000
{\an1}but evocative ruins of
a once-powerful trading outpost.
370
00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:38,000
{\an1}Why is Mozia so historic?
371
00:19:38,000 --> 00:19:43,000
{\an1}-Mozia was the base of the
Carthaginians in western Sicily.
372
00:19:43,000 --> 00:19:46,000
They came in
the 8th century B.C.
373
00:19:46,000 --> 00:19:50,000
{\an1}and did many trading posts
around the Mediterranean,
374
00:19:50,000 --> 00:19:52,000
{\an1}and Sicily sits in the middle.
375
00:19:52,000 --> 00:19:53,000
{\an1}Sicily is the stepping stone.
376
00:19:53,000 --> 00:19:56,000
{\an1}-Perfect place to establish
a trade center.
377
00:19:56,000 --> 00:19:57,000
-Yes.
378
00:19:57,000 --> 00:19:59,000
{\an1}-Now the Carthaginians came
about 800 years before Christ.
379
00:20:00,000 --> 00:20:01,000
{\an1}How long did they stay here?
380
00:20:01,000 --> 00:20:03,000
{\an1}-They stayed for 400 years
381
00:20:03,000 --> 00:20:06,000
{\an1}and eventually were destroyed
by the Greeks.
382
00:20:06,000 --> 00:20:08,000
{\an1}-We don't know very much
about Carthage -- why?
383
00:20:08,000 --> 00:20:10,000
{\an1}Because they lost all the wars?
384
00:20:10,000 --> 00:20:12,000
{\an1}-They lost the important wars.
385
00:20:12,000 --> 00:20:16,000
{\an1}We often say, "the winners
write history."
386
00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:21,000
{\an1}In this case, if you lose a war,
you lose your right
387
00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:23,000
{\an1}to say your side of the story.
388
00:20:26,000 --> 00:20:29,000
{\an7}-Nearby, the town of Trapani,
with its fortified promontory,
389
00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:32,000
{\an7}marks the westernmost point
of Sicily.
390
00:20:32,000 --> 00:20:36,000
{\an1}Its port is a shipping
and transportation hub.
391
00:20:36,000 --> 00:20:39,000
{\an1}The old town is a salty,
pedestrian-friendly delight
392
00:20:39,000 --> 00:20:41,000
with plenty
of handy accommodations
393
00:20:41,000 --> 00:20:43,000
{\an1}and fun places to eat.
394
00:20:43,000 --> 00:20:46,000
{\an1}Trapani offers a chance
to get to know a workaday
395
00:20:46,000 --> 00:20:50,000
Sicilian town with
a charming historic quarter.
396
00:20:50,000 --> 00:20:53,000
{\an1}The town's main streets,
lined with elegant facades,
397
00:20:53,000 --> 00:20:56,000
provide a showcase
for today's urban scene.
398
00:20:56,000 --> 00:21:01,000
{\an1}In the evening, locals enjoy
a lazy passeggiata,
399
00:21:01,000 --> 00:21:05,000
{\an1}which culminates with a sunset
on the ramparts.
400
00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:11,000
{\an1}A gondola carries us above
401
00:21:12,000 --> 00:21:16,000
{\an1}Trapani to the mountaintop
fortress town of Erice.
402
00:21:18,000 --> 00:21:22,000
{\an1}This stony town was protected
by an imposing fortress,
403
00:21:22,000 --> 00:21:25,000
recalling a time
when its strategic location
404
00:21:25,000 --> 00:21:28,000
was worth the climb.
405
00:21:28,000 --> 00:21:29,000
{\an1}The stout medieval gate
406
00:21:29,000 --> 00:21:34,000
leads into
a remarkably preserved old town.
407
00:21:34,000 --> 00:21:39,000
{\an1}While a touristy shell today,
the town is fun to explore.
408
00:21:39,000 --> 00:21:42,000
The church,
like everything else here,
409
00:21:42,000 --> 00:21:45,000
is a stony gray,
but as we step inside,
410
00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:49,000
a late-19th-century
interior dazzles visitors
411
00:21:49,000 --> 00:21:51,000
{\an1}with the over-the-top frilliness
412
00:21:51,000 --> 00:21:55,000
so typical
of neo-Gothic architecture.
413
00:21:55,000 --> 00:21:59,000
{\an1}The main street leads
to a humble main square,
414
00:21:59,000 --> 00:22:03,000
{\an1}and hiding deep in Erice
is the venerable pastry shop
415
00:22:03,000 --> 00:22:05,000
{\an1}of Signora Grammatico.
416
00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:12,000
{\an1}Her display case tempts all
who enter with its vast array
417
00:22:12,000 --> 00:22:15,000
of Sicilian sweets,
including, of course,
418
00:22:15,000 --> 00:22:20,000
{\an1}enticing cannoli and colorfully
painted marzipan treats,
419
00:22:20,000 --> 00:22:23,000
but hold on,
let's not ruin our appetite.
420
00:22:23,000 --> 00:22:26,000
{\an1}Signora Grammatico has prepared
a banquet designed
421
00:22:26,000 --> 00:22:30,000
{\an1}so we can enjoy an unforgettable
education in Sicilian cuisine.
422
00:22:30,000 --> 00:22:32,000
Indimenticabile.
423
00:22:32,000 --> 00:22:34,000
Milli grazie,
Signora Grammatico.
424
00:22:34,000 --> 00:22:36,000
-Prego.
-And complimenti.
425
00:22:36,000 --> 00:22:38,000
-Grazie.
-So beautiful.
426
00:22:38,000 --> 00:22:39,000
Alfio,
what are we eating here?
427
00:22:39,000 --> 00:22:41,000
{\an1}Give me a quick tour.
428
00:22:41,000 --> 00:22:43,000
{\an1}-The most beautiful things
we have in Sicily.
429
00:22:43,000 --> 00:22:45,000
Bruschetta...
-Oh, okay.
430
00:22:45,000 --> 00:22:47,000
-...with tomatoes
and the good olive oil
431
00:22:47,000 --> 00:22:49,000
{\an1}that we grow in Sicily.
432
00:22:49,000 --> 00:22:53,000
{\an1}Rice balls -- arancini,
filled with meat, deep-fried,
433
00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:55,000
{\an1}a specialty from Palermo.
434
00:22:55,000 --> 00:23:00,000
{\an1}Tabbouleh, a reminder of
the Arabs that once were here.
435
00:23:00,000 --> 00:23:03,000
{\an1}Pomodori secchi -- sun-dried
tomatoes, a local specialty.
436
00:23:03,000 --> 00:23:05,000
{\an1}Plenty of sun in Trapani.
437
00:23:05,000 --> 00:23:07,000
{\an1}Stuffed red peppers...
438
00:23:07,000 --> 00:23:09,000
{\an1}-Ooh. This looks good.
-...with breadcrumbs,
439
00:23:09,000 --> 00:23:13,000
{\an1}pine nuts and Pecorino
and Parmesan cheese.
440
00:23:13,000 --> 00:23:17,000
Local tuna,
fished in the islands out here.
441
00:23:17,000 --> 00:23:20,000
{\an1}This is one of my favorite --
caponata,
442
00:23:20,000 --> 00:23:22,000
{\an1}diced and fried eggplant.
443
00:23:22,000 --> 00:23:27,000
{\an1}In Trapani only, they put
toasted almonds on it.
444
00:23:27,000 --> 00:23:31,000
{\an1}Caprese salad -- red,
white, and green,
445
00:23:31,000 --> 00:23:34,000
{\an1}the colors of the flag --
a reminder we're Italians.
446
00:23:34,000 --> 00:23:36,000
-This is Sicily,
and you even remember.
447
00:23:36,000 --> 00:23:39,000
-Even in Sicily.
Sometimes we forget.
448
00:23:39,000 --> 00:23:40,000
-Sono molto felice.
-Grazie.
449
00:23:40,000 --> 00:23:42,000
[ Speaking Italian ]
Mangia.
450
00:23:43,000 --> 00:23:44,000
-Mangia.
451
00:23:44,000 --> 00:23:48,000
{\an1}Enjoying this feast with Alfio
is a great way to celebrate
452
00:23:48,000 --> 00:23:50,000
{\an1}all we've experienced here
in Sicily,
453
00:23:50,000 --> 00:23:52,000
{\an1}and there's so much more.
454
00:23:52,000 --> 00:23:57,000
{\an1}With its Greek temples,
boisterous markets,
455
00:23:57,000 --> 00:23:58,000
Roman mosaics
456
00:23:58,000 --> 00:24:04,000
{\an1}and glorious churches, all
capped by an active volcano --
457
00:24:04,000 --> 00:24:10,000
{\an1}Sicily richly rewards those
who venture this far south.
458
00:24:12,000 --> 00:24:14,000
{\an1}I hope you've enjoyed our look
459
00:24:14,000 --> 00:24:16,000
at the endearing
charms of Sicily.
460
00:24:16,000 --> 00:24:17,000
I'm Rick Steves.
461
00:24:17,000 --> 00:24:20,000
Until next time,
keep on traveling.
462
00:24:20,000 --> 00:24:21,000
Ciao.
463
00:24:23,000 --> 00:24:24,000
{\an8}-Is it delizioso?
464
00:24:24,000 --> 00:24:26,000
{\an8}-[ Speaking Italian ]
-Si.
465
00:24:26,000 --> 00:24:28,000
{\an8}-[ Speaking Italian ]
466
00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:32,000
{\an8}-♪ Mozia ♪
467
00:24:32,000 --> 00:24:33,000
{\an8}-♪ Mozia ♪
468
00:24:33,000 --> 00:24:35,000
{\an8}♪ Oh, Mozia ♪
469
00:24:35,000 --> 00:24:38,000
{\an8}♪ Why does it matter? ♪
470
00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:41,000
{\an8}Calamari,
delizioso.
471
00:24:43,000 --> 00:24:45,000
Arancini.
Arancini.
472
00:24:45,000 --> 00:24:47,000
-Arancini.
-Buon appetito.
473
00:24:47,000 --> 00:24:48,000
-Grazie.
39110
Can't find what you're looking for?
Get subtitles in any language from opensubtitles.com, and translate them here.