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{\an1}-Hi. I'm Rick Steves,
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back with more
of the best of Europe.
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{\an1}This time, we're enjoying
some rich musical culture
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{\an1}and a whole lot more.
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{\an1}It's the heartland of Portugal.
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{\an1}Thanks for joining us.
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{\an8}♪♪
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{\an8}♪♪
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{\an8}♪♪
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{\an8}♪♪
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{\an1}Portugal's a small country
of 10 million people
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{\an1}with an oversized history.
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{\an1}With a rich heritage,
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fascinating culture,
and tons of sardines,
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it's inexpensive,
friendly, and easy to explore.
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{\an1}We'll dance on the beach,
visit a royal library,
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savor port wine
with the people who made it,
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{\an1}marvel at a medieval abbey,
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{\an1}feel the emotion of fado...
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{\an1}[ Man singing in Portuguese ]
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{\an1}...visit Portugal's second city,
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{\an1}and celebrate with students.
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{\an1}[ Group chanting in Portuguese ]
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Portugal shares
the Iberian Peninsula
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{\an1}with its neighbor, Spain.
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{\an7}Our travels take us through
the heartland of Portugal.
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{\an7}Saving the capital city of
Lisbon for another episode,
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{\an8}we explore Nazaré,
Batalha, Coimbra,
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{\an1}the Douro River Valley,
and visit the city of Porto.
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Our first stop --
the fishing town of Nazaré.
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We're here in May,
and the beach is all ours.
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{\an1}While touristy in the summer,
Nazaré offers a good look
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{\an1}at how bits of traditional
Portugal survive.
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{\an8}♪♪
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{\an8}The community faces
its sweeping beach.
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{\an1}People stroll the promenade.
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{\an1}Old-timers enjoy the scene.
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Kids use the beach
for a soccer field.
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-Oh! Oh!
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-And families catch
some springtime sun
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{\an1}before the hordes of summer
vacationers arrive.
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Nazaré has a strong
fishing heritage.
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{\an1}While nothing like its heyday,
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{\an1}fishermen still manage
to harvest the sea.
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Working as a team
as the sun drops,
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{\an1}they set their nets with wisdom
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passed down from
their grandfathers.
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The next morning,
the women of the town
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{\an1}prepare the day's catch.
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{\an1}Splayed and salted fish
are put out on nets
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{\an1}to dry under the midday sun.
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This simple way of
preserving fish
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{\an1}carries on, unchanged
for generations.
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{\an1}Locals claim they're delicious,
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{\an1}but I'd rather eat another
salty treat -- barnacles.
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{\an1}So, this is a barnacle?
-Yep.
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-How do you say that
in Portuguese?
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-Percebes.
-Percebes.
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Can you show me
the trick to opening it?
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-Okay.
-Yeah.
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-You...
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-Oh!
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[ Laughs ]
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Mmm, it's good!
-Yeah.
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{\an1}-So, where do these come from?
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{\an1}-From the rocks, from there.
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-Just from right
over there, huh?
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-Yeah.
-Today?
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-Yeah.
-Really?
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Today.
So it's fresh.
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{\an1}So, I break it, okay, like so.
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Look at that.
It's beautiful.
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Mmm.
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{\an1}How do you say "delicious"?
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-Muito bom.
-Muito bom.
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{\an1}-Percebes -- muito bom.
-Good.
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{\an1}-And with beer, perfect.
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-Obrigado.
-Bon appétit.
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Thank you.
-Thank you.
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-Obrigado.
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{\an1}Nazaré's women are known
for their traditional skirts
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{\an1}with many layers of petticoats
to keep them warm,
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{\an1}reminiscent of the old days
when they'd sit on the beach
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awaiting the return
of their fishermen.
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Bom dia.
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{\an1}And this proud woman is eager
to describe her outfit.
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{\an1}The short skirts are made bulky
by many petticoats.
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The aprons
are embroidered by hand.
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{\an1}The stockings are high and loud.
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{\an1}Flamboyant jewelry is passed
down from generation
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to generation.
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{\an1}And when the wind whips up,
her shawl keeps her warm.
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-See?
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See?
[ Speaks Portuguese ]
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-Nice!
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Obrigado.
-[ Laughs ]
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Okay.
-Obrigado.
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{\an1}-[ Speaks Portuguese ]
-[ Speaks Portuguese ]
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-Nazaré's folk club
keeps their traditions
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{\an1}lively with music and dance.
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{\an1}This troupe's been gathering
crowds since the 1930s.
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{\an1}[ Up-tempo folk music plays ]
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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♪♪
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[ Music ends,
man speaks Portuguese ]
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[ Applause ]
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{\an1}-Nazaré's sister town, Sítio,
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{\an1}is perched high above
on a bluff.
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{\an1}A funicular connects the two,
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{\an1}and it's been saving locals
a steep climb since 1889.
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{\an7}Sítio has its own vibe.
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{\an7}The stony main square
evokes a bygone age.
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{\an1}Its wealth came from farming
rather than fishing,
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and, today, the main
economy is tourism.
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{\an1}From the edge of the bluff,
you can enjoy a commanding view.
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Nazaré and its
golden beach stretch
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{\an1}all the way to the new harbor.
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{\an1}In the other direction,
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{\an1}a wilder beach stretches
far to the north.
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{\an1}And when the surf's up here,
it's really up.
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This bluff is famous
among surfers
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{\an1}for some of the biggest
waves in the world.
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{\an1}When conditions align,
they create monster waves
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100 feet high
as daredevil surfers
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{\an1}enjoy the ultimate ride.
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♪♪
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It's dinnertime,
and we're ready to feast
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{\an1}on the bounty of the sea.
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{\an1}Tempting appetizers are put
on the table, but beware.
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In Portugal, you pay
for every nibble.
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{\an1}If you don't want them,
just say so.
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{\an1}So, in Portugal, they put
this on the table
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{\an1}whether you ask for it or not.
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{\an1}You might think it's free,
but it's not.
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{\an1}But it's always delicious.
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But these are just
too tasty to miss.
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{\an1}Vinho Verde, literally
"green wine,"
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{\an1}is a Portuguese specialty.
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{\an1}Refreshing and sprightly, it's
a young, or green, wine picked,
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bottled, and enjoyed
without aging.
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{\an1}A key to good seafood here
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is fresh ingredients
and simple preparation.
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All right, Teresa.
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{\an1}Here comes some shrimp
with garlic for you.
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With a small group,
I order family style
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{\an1}to maximize the experience.
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{\an1}We're enjoying grilled
sardines, sea bream,
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garlic shrimp,
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and caldeirada --
the local fish stew.
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♪♪
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{\an1}I like driving in Portugal.
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{\an1}Like all of Europe, there's been
a huge investment
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in infrastructure,
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{\an1}and in this small country
laced with new freeways,
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{\an1}you can get around in a hurry.
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Standing boldly just
off the highway
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is one of the most
revered sites in Portugal.
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{\an7}Both historic and sacred, this
is the Monastery of Batalha.
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{\an1}"Batalha" means "battle,"
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{\an1}and this was built to celebrate
a pivotal battle in 1385,
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when Portugal beat
the mightier Spaniards.
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This victory allowed
for independence
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{\an1}under a Portuguese king,
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rather than ruled
by a Spanish king.
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{\an1}This monastery and its church,
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{\an1}the symbol of Portugal's
national pride,
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were built by
Portugal's King John I.
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{\an1}It's an ornate Late Gothic
structure with pointed arches,
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fanciful gargoyles,
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{\an1}and flamboyant pinnacles
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{\an1}representing the flickering
flames of the Holy Spirit.
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♪♪
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The nave, with its
towering pillars
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{\an1}and warmly lit by stained glass,
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{\an1}has an air of solemn simplicity.
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{\an1}This is classic Gothic
from Europe's Age of Faith.
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♪♪
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{\an1}The adjacent cloister, designed
for meditation and tranquility,
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is Manueline.
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That's the uniquely
Portuguese style
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{\an1}named after King Manuel,
who ruled around 1500.
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{\an1}It features symbolic motifs that
celebrate the sea and trade,
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{\an1}coils of rope, pearls...
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{\an1}artichokes, and lotus flowers
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from the recently
explored Orient.
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{\an1}Armillary spheres symbolize how,
with expert navigational skills,
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{\an1}Portugal sailed the globe.
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{\an1}A few miles away is Fátima,
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one of Europe's most
important pilgrimage sites.
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The Basilica, facing
a vast square,
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marks the spot where
the faithful believe
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the Virgin Mary
appeared several times.
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On May 13, 1917,
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{\an1}three young shepherds reported
being visited by Mary,
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{\an1}who said, "Peace is needed."
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{\an1}World War I raged on,
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{\an1}and she appeared again
on the 13th day
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{\an1}of each of the next five months,
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{\an1}each time calling for peace.
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Ever since, for over
100 years now,
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{\an1}on the 13th of each of those
months, pilgrims gather here.
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{\an1}The Vatican recognized
the apparition of Fátima
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{\an1}as a bona fide miracle,
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{\an1}and on its centennial in 2017,
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{\an1}over a million people gathered
here with Pope Francis I
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to remember Mary's
still-timely call for peace.
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♪♪
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♪♪
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{\an1}An hour north of Fátima is
the university city of Coimbra.
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{\an7}Fortified on its hill,
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{\an7}overlooking the Mondego River,
in its medieval heyday,
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{\an8}this was Portugal's
leading city.
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{\an1}In the Middle Ages, when Muslim
Moors controlled Portugal,
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{\an1}this was the dominant city,
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{\an1}and then, for an entire century,
it was the country's capital.
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{\an1}Only later, when Portugal was
becoming a maritime power,
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did the port cities
of Lisbon and Porto
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{\an1}become more influential
than Coimbra.
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{\an1}The city was established
by the ancient Romans
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{\an1}at a strategic bridge
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{\an1}that crossed the Mondego River
at this point.
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Today's bridge leads
to the main square,
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{\an1}a great place to begin
your Coimbra visit.
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{\an1}Coimbra is a delight on foot.
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{\an1}The pedestrian-only main drag
is perfectly straight,
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{\an1}an indication that it survives
from ancient Roman times.
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It ends at another
people-friendly square
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{\an1}facing the Church of Santa Cruz.
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{\an1}To be sure I get the most
out of my travels here,
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{\an1}I am joined by my friend
and fellow tour guide,
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Cristina Duarte.
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{\an1}Wherever you're traveling,
you can find private guides
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listed online
and in guidebooks.
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{\an1}It seems like I've got friends
all over Europe, doesn't it?
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{\an1}But, you know, I'm paying them
to be my sidekick,
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and you can, too.
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00:11:57,000 --> 00:12:02,000
{\an1}I find hiring a private guide
to be money very well spent.
241
00:12:02,000 --> 00:12:04,000
{\an1}Okay, so, the gate is
just this way, isn't it?
242
00:12:04,000 --> 00:12:06,000
{\an1}-And this is the gate
of the old city.
243
00:12:06,000 --> 00:12:08,000
-Of the old city.
What was the name?
244
00:12:08,000 --> 00:12:11,000
-Medina.
Arco de Almedina.
245
00:12:11,000 --> 00:12:12,000
{\an1}-"Medina" is an Arabic word.
246
00:12:12,000 --> 00:12:14,000
-Is an Arabic word
and reminds us
247
00:12:14,000 --> 00:12:16,000
that we were ruled
by the Moors
248
00:12:16,000 --> 00:12:18,000
{\an1}for a couple of centuries.
-Okay.
249
00:12:18,000 --> 00:12:19,000
{\an1}-And defense was very important.
250
00:12:19,000 --> 00:12:20,000
-So --
-That's why the street,
251
00:12:21,000 --> 00:12:22,000
{\an1}you see, it's not straight.
252
00:12:22,000 --> 00:12:23,000
It forms an angle.
253
00:12:23,000 --> 00:12:24,000
-Oh, okay.
-And if you look up,
254
00:12:24,000 --> 00:12:27,000
{\an1}you have mata-caes...
-Mata-caes.
255
00:12:27,000 --> 00:12:28,000
{\an1}-...meaning "kill the dogs,"
256
00:12:28,000 --> 00:12:30,000
{\an1}because it was meant to throw
the stones to the enemies.
257
00:12:31,000 --> 00:12:32,000
-Oh, no!
-Yeah.
258
00:12:32,000 --> 00:12:33,000
-"Kill the dogs."
I don't want to be here.
259
00:12:33,000 --> 00:12:34,000
-[ Laughs ]
260
00:12:34,000 --> 00:12:36,000
-What's this?
261
00:12:36,000 --> 00:12:37,000
{\an1}-This is the Old Cathedral.
262
00:12:37,000 --> 00:12:39,000
-How do you say
that in Portuguese?
263
00:12:39,000 --> 00:12:41,000
-Sé Velha.
-Sé Velha.
264
00:12:41,000 --> 00:12:44,000
-It's a 12th-century
cathedral, Romanesque.
265
00:12:44,000 --> 00:12:46,000
{\an1}-So -- 'cause you've got
the round arches.
266
00:12:46,000 --> 00:12:48,000
-That's true.
-Now, it also looks
267
00:12:48,000 --> 00:12:49,000
like a fortress.
268
00:12:49,000 --> 00:12:50,000
{\an1}Look at the crenellations
up there.
269
00:12:50,000 --> 00:12:53,000
{\an1}-We were on the times
of the Moors and Christians
270
00:12:53,000 --> 00:12:54,000
fighting for
the same territories.
271
00:12:54,000 --> 00:12:56,000
{\an1}-So they were still worried
about the Moors?
272
00:12:56,000 --> 00:12:57,000
-Oh, yes. They were.
They were.
273
00:12:57,000 --> 00:12:59,000
-So this is kind of
a double building --
274
00:12:59,000 --> 00:13:00,000
{\an1}a church and a fortress?
275
00:13:00,000 --> 00:13:03,000
-Yes.
276
00:13:03,000 --> 00:13:05,000
-We're dropping into
a tiny theater
277
00:13:05,000 --> 00:13:07,000
{\an1}to enjoy a fado performance.
278
00:13:07,000 --> 00:13:09,000
{\an1}[ Man singing in Portuguese ]
279
00:13:10,000 --> 00:13:12,000
♪♪
280
00:13:13,000 --> 00:13:16,000
Fado is a uniquely
Portuguese style of music,
281
00:13:16,000 --> 00:13:18,000
{\an1}soulful and nostalgic.
282
00:13:18,000 --> 00:13:20,000
{\an1}While most fado is sung
by the women,
283
00:13:21,000 --> 00:13:23,000
{\an1}here in Coimbra, it's the men.
284
00:13:23,000 --> 00:13:25,000
The songs
are serenades of love --
285
00:13:26,000 --> 00:13:29,000
{\an1}usually sad, unanswered love.
286
00:13:29,000 --> 00:13:32,000
{\an1}These troubadours have long
provided the soundtrack for life
287
00:13:32,000 --> 00:13:35,000
here in Coimbra.
288
00:13:35,000 --> 00:13:37,000
{\an1}[ Singing continues ]
289
00:13:37,000 --> 00:13:45,000
♪♪
290
00:13:45,000 --> 00:13:53,000
♪♪
291
00:13:53,000 --> 00:14:02,000
♪♪
292
00:14:02,000 --> 00:14:10,000
♪♪
293
00:14:10,000 --> 00:14:12,000
{\an1}[ Music ends, applause ]
294
00:14:12,000 --> 00:14:13,000
{\an1}[ Man speaking Portuguese ]
295
00:14:17,000 --> 00:14:18,000
[ Bells chiming ]
296
00:14:18,000 --> 00:14:20,000
-Coimbra is home
to the country's oldest
297
00:14:20,000 --> 00:14:25,000
and most prestigious
university, founded in 1290.
298
00:14:25,000 --> 00:14:27,000
{\an1}As a traveler, it's fun to drop
299
00:14:27,000 --> 00:14:29,000
into this venerable
academic world.
300
00:14:32,000 --> 00:14:34,000
700 years ago,
Coimbra's university
301
00:14:34,000 --> 00:14:35,000
{\an1}taught the medieval basics,
302
00:14:35,000 --> 00:14:38,000
like law, medicine,
and theology.
303
00:14:38,000 --> 00:14:41,000
{\an1}Later, as Portuguese sailors
were navigating the globe,
304
00:14:41,000 --> 00:14:44,000
{\an1}astronomy and geometry
were added.
305
00:14:44,000 --> 00:14:46,000
{\an1}The university's Baroque library
306
00:14:46,000 --> 00:14:49,000
{\an1}has an impressive collection
of antique books.
307
00:14:52,000 --> 00:14:55,000
{\an1}University researchers
are still allowed to read
308
00:14:55,000 --> 00:14:58,000
{\an1}these centuries-old volumes.
309
00:14:58,000 --> 00:15:01,000
King John V still
oversees the library
310
00:15:01,000 --> 00:15:04,000
{\an1}he founded in the early 1700s.
311
00:15:04,000 --> 00:15:07,000
♪♪
312
00:15:07,000 --> 00:15:11,000
The reading tables,
inlaid with exotic woods --
313
00:15:11,000 --> 00:15:14,000
ebony from Sri Lanka
and rosewood from Brazil --
314
00:15:14,000 --> 00:15:18,000
{\an1}come with silver inkwells.
315
00:15:18,000 --> 00:15:24,000
{\an1}The gold leaf is South American.
316
00:15:24,000 --> 00:15:26,000
{\an1}And the motifs are Chinese.
317
00:15:26,000 --> 00:15:30,000
♪♪
318
00:15:30,000 --> 00:15:32,000
{\an1}Everything reminds us
that Portugal's wealth
319
00:15:32,000 --> 00:15:37,000
was both immense
and imported.
320
00:15:37,000 --> 00:15:41,000
{\an1}The heavy teak door is kept shut
to keep out the humidity.
321
00:15:41,000 --> 00:15:48,000
♪♪
322
00:15:48,000 --> 00:15:50,000
{\an1}When school's in session,
323
00:15:50,000 --> 00:15:52,000
Coimbra bustles with
a youthful energy.
324
00:15:52,000 --> 00:15:55,000
{\an1}We're here in May, and students
are out in the streets
325
00:15:55,000 --> 00:15:59,000
{\an1}as they celebrate the completion
of another year of studies.
326
00:15:59,000 --> 00:16:02,000
{\an1}[ Group chanting in Portuguese ]
327
00:16:13,000 --> 00:16:15,000
[ Group cheering ]
328
00:16:15,000 --> 00:16:18,000
[ Applause ]
329
00:16:18,000 --> 00:16:19,000
{\an1}Many Coimbra students
live together,
330
00:16:20,000 --> 00:16:21,000
{\an1}in groups of about a dozen,
331
00:16:21,000 --> 00:16:24,000
in communal houses
called repúblicas.
332
00:16:24,000 --> 00:16:26,000
{\an1}Today, these function
as tiny fraternities,
333
00:16:26,000 --> 00:16:28,000
{\an1}each with their own personality
334
00:16:28,000 --> 00:16:31,000
{\an1}and an unbridled urge
to express it.
335
00:16:31,000 --> 00:16:33,000
{\an1}With the help of a couple
of six-packs,
336
00:16:33,000 --> 00:16:37,000
{\an1}Cristina and I have tucked
ourselves in for dinner,
337
00:16:37,000 --> 00:16:38,000
and within moments,
338
00:16:38,000 --> 00:16:42,000
we're engulfed
in stimulating conversation.
339
00:16:42,000 --> 00:16:44,000
{\an1}Do you guys talk politics
like this all the time?
340
00:16:44,000 --> 00:16:45,000
-Yes, yes.
-I like that.
341
00:16:45,000 --> 00:16:49,000
{\an1}Students here see formal
education as job training
342
00:16:49,000 --> 00:16:52,000
{\an1}and their time in these
co-ops as life training.
343
00:16:52,000 --> 00:16:55,000
{\an1}They brag that, in one year
of this communal living,
344
00:16:55,000 --> 00:16:59,000
{\an1}you gain social skills
that'll last a lifetime.
345
00:16:59,000 --> 00:17:02,000
{\an1}The conversation rages on
at the dinner table.
346
00:17:02,000 --> 00:17:06,000
{\an1}Part of the ethic of república
living is eating together.
347
00:17:06,000 --> 00:17:09,000
No cellphones are
allowed at the table.
348
00:17:09,000 --> 00:17:11,000
{\an1}The students pool their money
to hire a cook
349
00:17:11,000 --> 00:17:15,000
{\an1}so everyone can enjoy
this enriching social time.
350
00:17:17,000 --> 00:17:19,000
-Hey!
-Hey!
351
00:17:19,000 --> 00:17:21,000
{\an1}-And whenever there's
a memorable event,
352
00:17:21,000 --> 00:17:23,000
like a visit from
an American film crew,
353
00:17:23,000 --> 00:17:25,000
the gang shares
a special cheer.
354
00:17:25,000 --> 00:17:27,000
{\an1}[ Group chanting in Portuguese ]
355
00:17:31,000 --> 00:17:35,000
-Whoa!
-Whoa!
356
00:17:38,000 --> 00:17:40,000
{\an1}-From Coimbra, we drive
a couple hours
357
00:17:40,000 --> 00:17:43,000
{\an1}farther north into the mountains
of the interior
358
00:17:43,000 --> 00:17:45,000
{\an1}to explore the scenic
Douro River Valley,
359
00:17:45,000 --> 00:17:49,000
{\an1}famous as the birthplace
of port wine.
360
00:17:49,000 --> 00:17:52,000
{\an1}The Douro River's steep
and twisting valleys,
361
00:17:52,000 --> 00:17:54,000
{\an8}laboriously terraced
over the centuries,
362
00:17:54,000 --> 00:17:57,000
{\an7}are ideal for growing grapes.
363
00:17:57,000 --> 00:17:59,000
Unlike other great
European river valleys,
364
00:17:59,000 --> 00:18:02,000
the Douro was never
a strategic military location,
365
00:18:02,000 --> 00:18:05,000
so, rather than
castles and palaces,
366
00:18:05,000 --> 00:18:07,000
{\an1}you'll see farms and vineyards,
367
00:18:08,000 --> 00:18:11,000
almost all dedicated
to the production of port,
368
00:18:11,000 --> 00:18:15,000
the region's beloved
fortified wine.
369
00:18:15,000 --> 00:18:20,000
{\an1}A 50-mile stretch of prime land
is home to scores of quintas,
370
00:18:20,000 --> 00:18:22,000
{\an1}vineyards that produce port.
371
00:18:22,000 --> 00:18:29,000
{\an1}Many quintas welcome the public,
offering tours and tastings.
372
00:18:29,000 --> 00:18:33,000
{\an1}Visiting a family like this,
we enjoy a peek at local life.
373
00:18:33,000 --> 00:18:37,000
{\an1}It's spring, and the workers are
busy taming the fresh growth.
374
00:18:37,000 --> 00:18:41,000
♪♪
375
00:18:41,000 --> 00:18:44,000
{\an1}In their cellar, the sister
who runs the vineyard explains
376
00:18:44,000 --> 00:18:50,000
{\an1}how this is just the first stage
of a very long process.
377
00:18:50,000 --> 00:18:54,000
{\an1}Tasting the family's finest
port surrounded by their vines,
378
00:18:54,000 --> 00:18:55,000
{\an1}I enjoy yet another chance
379
00:18:55,000 --> 00:18:58,000
to appreciate
the pride of artisans,
380
00:18:58,000 --> 00:19:02,000
so passionate about
their traditions and craft.
381
00:19:03,000 --> 00:19:05,000
♪♪
382
00:19:05,000 --> 00:19:08,000
{\an1}The Douro River begins
as a trickle in Spain,
383
00:19:08,000 --> 00:19:10,000
{\an1}runs west through Portugal,
and to the city of Porto,
384
00:19:11,000 --> 00:19:14,000
where it spills
into the Atlantic.
385
00:19:14,000 --> 00:19:18,000
{\an1}Porto, the town that gave the
country and port wine its name,
386
00:19:18,000 --> 00:19:21,000
{\an1}is the second-largest
city in Portugal.
387
00:19:23,000 --> 00:19:25,000
{\an1}And like second cities
throughout Europe,
388
00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:29,000
{\an1}Porto is a hardscrabble
town with a rough past.
389
00:19:29,000 --> 00:19:33,000
{\an1}It's recently emerged
from a postindustrial funk
390
00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:34,000
to become trendy,
391
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:37,000
{\an1}revitalized with a fresh
and creative energy.
392
00:19:37,000 --> 00:19:40,000
The city is full
of Old World charm.
393
00:19:40,000 --> 00:19:43,000
{\an1}Prickly church towers
dot the skyline.
394
00:19:43,000 --> 00:19:46,000
{\an1}Houses with red-tiled roofs
tumble down its hills
395
00:19:46,000 --> 00:19:48,000
to the riverbank.
396
00:19:48,000 --> 00:19:50,000
{\an1}Porto is a solid city.
397
00:19:50,000 --> 00:19:54,000
It seems made
entirely of granite.
398
00:19:54,000 --> 00:19:56,000
The main drag,
Avenue of the Allies,
399
00:19:56,000 --> 00:19:59,000
{\an1}is named for Portugal's
World War I alliance
400
00:19:59,000 --> 00:20:01,000
{\an1}with Britain and America.
401
00:20:01,000 --> 00:20:05,000
{\an1}The wide boulevard watched over
by the huge city hall
402
00:20:05,000 --> 00:20:07,000
is lined with
monumental examples
403
00:20:07,000 --> 00:20:11,000
{\an1}of Art Nouveau and Art Deco.
404
00:20:11,000 --> 00:20:13,000
As if to counter
all the heavy stonework,
405
00:20:13,000 --> 00:20:16,000
inviting shopping
streets are ornamented
406
00:20:16,000 --> 00:20:18,000
with playful
architectural touches.
407
00:20:18,000 --> 00:20:22,000
{\an1}There are lots of lovely
blue-tiled facades.
408
00:20:22,000 --> 00:20:24,000
{\an1}Churches that are otherwise
just more blocky granite
409
00:20:24,000 --> 00:20:26,000
are beautified
410
00:20:26,000 --> 00:20:29,000
by these fine blue
ceramic tiles called azulejos.
411
00:20:29,000 --> 00:20:33,000
{\an1}And for a closer look,
visit the old train station.
412
00:20:35,000 --> 00:20:40,000
{\an1}Storefronts evoke good times
from the early 20th century.
413
00:20:40,000 --> 00:20:43,000
Delightful facades
decorate venerable cafés,
414
00:20:43,000 --> 00:20:49,000
{\an1}as Porto seems to cling
to the style of an age gone by.
415
00:20:49,000 --> 00:20:52,000
{\an1}Porto's romantic riverfront,
the Ribeira district,
416
00:20:52,000 --> 00:20:55,000
{\an1}is the city's most scenic
and touristy quarter,
417
00:20:55,000 --> 00:21:00,000
but before tourism,
this was a hardworking port.
418
00:21:00,000 --> 00:21:03,000
{\an1}As you stroll, imagine
the busy port scene here
419
00:21:03,000 --> 00:21:05,000
{\an1}before this promenade
was reclaimed from the river.
420
00:21:05,000 --> 00:21:08,000
{\an1}Cargo-laden rivercraft
latched to the embankment,
421
00:21:08,000 --> 00:21:10,000
off-loading their
produce and wine
422
00:21:10,000 --> 00:21:14,000
directly into
14th-century cellars.
423
00:21:14,000 --> 00:21:16,000
{\an1}The old arcades lining
the promenade
424
00:21:16,000 --> 00:21:20,000
{\an1}are filled with hole-in-the-wall
restaurants and souvenir shops.
425
00:21:20,000 --> 00:21:23,000
{\an1}Behind the arcades are skinny,
colorful houses
426
00:21:23,000 --> 00:21:27,000
draped with laundry
fluttering like flags.
427
00:21:27,000 --> 00:21:30,000
{\an1}The contrast of today's tourist
crowds amid these vivid,
428
00:21:30,000 --> 00:21:33,000
{\an1}authentic neighborhoods
is striking.
429
00:21:33,000 --> 00:21:36,000
♪♪
430
00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:40,000
{\an1}From here, a double-decker iron
bridge crosses the Douro River.
431
00:21:40,000 --> 00:21:44,000
{\an1}Inspired by Gustave Eiffel when
it was built back in the 1880s,
432
00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:48,000
it was the biggest
such bridge in the world.
433
00:21:48,000 --> 00:21:50,000
{\an1}Recently, its top deck
was closed to traffic.
434
00:21:50,000 --> 00:21:53,000
{\an1}Now it's just people and trams.
435
00:21:53,000 --> 00:21:56,000
♪♪
436
00:21:56,000 --> 00:21:57,000
{\an1}Across the river is a harbor
437
00:21:57,000 --> 00:22:01,000
{\an1}lined with traditional boats
called rabelos.
438
00:22:01,000 --> 00:22:04,000
{\an1}Historically, these cargo boats
transported kegs of wine
439
00:22:04,000 --> 00:22:08,000
{\an1}from the inland vineyards
down to Porto.
440
00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:11,000
{\an1}The boats have flat bottoms,
a big square sail,
441
00:22:11,000 --> 00:22:13,000
and a long rudder
to help them navigate
442
00:22:13,000 --> 00:22:17,000
the twisty and,
at times, shallow river.
443
00:22:17,000 --> 00:22:21,000
{\an1}Facing the riverfront is a
district filled with warehouses.
444
00:22:21,000 --> 00:22:24,000
{\an1}These port wine lodges are where
the world's port wine
445
00:22:24,000 --> 00:22:29,000
comes to mature.
446
00:22:29,000 --> 00:22:33,000
18 lodges compete, and
most offer tours and tastings.
447
00:22:33,000 --> 00:22:35,000
{\an1}We're visiting one to learn
about the wine
448
00:22:35,000 --> 00:22:39,000
{\an1}that put Porto on the map.
449
00:22:39,000 --> 00:22:42,000
{\an1}After the year-old wine
is off-loaded from the boats,
450
00:22:42,000 --> 00:22:46,000
{\an1}it ages even longer here
in these enormous barrels.
451
00:22:47,000 --> 00:22:49,000
{\an1}This aging on the cool,
north-facing bank
452
00:22:49,000 --> 00:22:53,000
{\an1}of the Douro takes years
and even decades,
453
00:22:53,000 --> 00:22:56,000
and when the refined
and time-honored process
454
00:22:56,000 --> 00:22:57,000
is finally complete,
455
00:22:58,000 --> 00:23:01,000
{\an1}the beloved port wine
is ready to enjoy.
456
00:23:01,000 --> 00:23:04,000
{\an1}What is the difference
between port and red wine
457
00:23:04,000 --> 00:23:05,000
that we think of?
458
00:23:06,000 --> 00:23:08,000
{\an1}-The difference between a port
wine and a traditional wine
459
00:23:08,000 --> 00:23:09,000
is the fact
that the traditional wine
460
00:23:09,000 --> 00:23:12,000
{\an1}has a complete fermentation,
461
00:23:12,000 --> 00:23:13,000
and a port wine
is a fortified wine,
462
00:23:13,000 --> 00:23:17,000
{\an1}so you stop the fermentation
the second day by adding
463
00:23:17,000 --> 00:23:20,000
a really strong
wine spirit, brandy,
464
00:23:20,000 --> 00:23:24,000
{\an1}that has 77% of alcohol
and kills all the yeasts.
465
00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:26,000
{\an1}We have mainly two different
styles, rubies and tawnies.
466
00:23:26,000 --> 00:23:29,000
The rubies,
they age in big vats,
467
00:23:29,000 --> 00:23:30,000
{\an1}so they will have little contact
468
00:23:30,000 --> 00:23:32,000
with oak, little
contact with oxygen.
469
00:23:33,000 --> 00:23:36,000
{\an1}The exact same wine, if you age
it in smaller barrels,
470
00:23:36,000 --> 00:23:38,000
they will have
higher contact with oak,
471
00:23:38,000 --> 00:23:40,000
{\an1}higher contact with oxygen,
472
00:23:40,000 --> 00:23:42,000
and the oxygen
will change the color.
473
00:23:42,000 --> 00:23:44,000
{\an1}The coloring of tawny
is lighter,
474
00:23:44,000 --> 00:23:46,000
{\an1}and, you start to understand,
much older
475
00:23:46,000 --> 00:23:49,000
{\an1}and much more mature fruit.
476
00:23:49,000 --> 00:23:51,000
{\an1}-After enjoying our tasting,
a fine way to cap
477
00:23:51,000 --> 00:23:53,000
our Porto visit
478
00:23:53,000 --> 00:23:55,000
{\an1}is on a lazy boat ride.
479
00:23:55,000 --> 00:23:58,000
{\an1}Several companies offer
hour-long narrated cruises
480
00:23:58,000 --> 00:24:00,000
{\an1}along the historic waterfront.
481
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:02,000
Here in a city built
over the centuries
482
00:24:02,000 --> 00:24:04,000
{\an1}upon the fruit of the vine
483
00:24:04,000 --> 00:24:05,000
{\an1}and the hard work of its people,
484
00:24:05,000 --> 00:24:11,000
{\an1}we ponder the impressive and
salty mix that created Portugal.
485
00:24:11,000 --> 00:24:13,000
♪♪
486
00:24:13,000 --> 00:24:14,000
{\an1}Thanks for joining us.
487
00:24:14,000 --> 00:24:16,000
{\an1}I hope you've enjoyed our look
at the many dimensions
488
00:24:16,000 --> 00:24:18,000
{\an1}of the heartland of Portugal.
489
00:24:18,000 --> 00:24:19,000
I'm Rick Steves.
490
00:24:19,000 --> 00:24:23,000
Until next time,
keep on travelin'.
491
00:24:23,000 --> 00:24:24,000
{\an7}-And you break that off.
492
00:24:24,000 --> 00:24:26,000
{\an8}Aah! Whoa!
493
00:24:26,000 --> 00:24:27,000
{\an8}[ Laughs ]
494
00:24:27,000 --> 00:24:30,000
{\an8}Like a little smile.
You can make a smile.
495
00:24:30,000 --> 00:24:32,000
{\an7}-You can actually make
a smile with it.
496
00:24:32,000 --> 00:24:33,000
{\an8}-[ Laughs ]
497
00:24:33,000 --> 00:24:35,000
{\an7}Nazaré offers a good look
at how bits
498
00:24:35,000 --> 00:24:38,000
{\an7}of touristy -- traditional
Portugal survived.
499
00:24:38,000 --> 00:24:39,000
{\an8}Boa tarde.
-Boa tarde.
500
00:24:40,000 --> 00:24:43,000
{\an7}-[ Speaking Portuguese ]
[ Man speaking in Portuguese ]
501
00:24:43,000 --> 00:24:44,000
{\an7}I hope you've enjoyed our look
502
00:24:44,000 --> 00:24:47,000
{\an7}at the many dimensions
of medieval heartland.
503
00:24:47,000 --> 00:24:49,000
{\an8}-Medieval.
[ Laughter ]
504
00:24:49,000 --> 00:24:54,000
{\an8}♪♪
39856
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